In reading a few of the comments below that are in english, I'm happy to see that they are positive and offer good suggestions. This build has been fearless and aggressive from the beginning and there's no doubt that a few problems like this will come up. This young builder is amazing and his fabrication and engineering skill is remarkable. There's no doubt in my mind that he will overcome this track drive problem I look forward to his remedy. Full ahead young man! You are truly an inspiration to all of us who like to build. You do one heck of a great job with the barest essentials.
i suspected this would happen. If you replace all track bolts with carriage bolts you'll have more clearance and the hemispherical head of the bolt will allow all wheels to glide by. As for the teeth for the drive sprockets, they just need to be made triangular, but in doing so you'll need to make your idler wheels able to adjust tension on the tracks like any normal tracked vehicle. Easiest way to do the tensioning system is either copy Soviet or British designs on their tanks or copy designs used on precision rifle stocks for adjusting length of pull.
I am enjoying this series immensely. I love watching young people being creative, using tools, and learning new things. (I'm a Physics teacher.) You're doing a great job, keep it up. I'm going to go back and rewatch once the translations are available...
Another great video!! Love the rough and ready construction of this!! Keep it up! And to all the comments saying the binding is because of it using a front drive and not a rear.... wrong, most/all IFVs (infantry fighting vehicles) such as the British Warrior, or US Bradley use a front drive train. The problem lies with track tension and the sharp flat edges of the drive cog(sprocket). In the case of a Warrior the sprocket has rounded flat cone shapes teeth which locks with rounded holes in the track thus it doesn’t jam. If the track is too slack we still get some binding but because the teeth are thinner at the top than the bottom it pops off... they also only use 2 drive sprockets with 2 supporting wheels in between not a long flat bar along the full length of the drive station. I would recommend finding a way to tighten the track first so there is no slack along your top rollers before altering too much see if this solves it Not sure if this info will help Doctor D.S. but I look forward to seeing how you fix this 👌👌
Add a tensioner wheel of some sort between the driving wheels and bottom driven wheels, as a extra plate for the foot pedal cable linkage bracket for strength off the chassis, noticed it was a little weak when you were pressing the pedal to engage the drive. Good workmanship, keep it up bud.👍
How many who have commented have built one ...how many are ? ...so as i see it ...he has created something amazing from nothing , and problem solving is easier if its built and running ...not ever on paper or even computers ...I applaud you DS , great build ...I think the design and build is excellent, thank you for uploading great videos 👍😊
As a side note....it always appears to be raining...Where is this, what nationality are you? I'm guessing something like Finland, Denmark, or similar...
And as an even further post...The issue @ 21:00, is from those freaking Hex head bolts you used on the treads... Like I stated in an earlier post, you should use round-headed bolts, then....done deal...
You keep on this path, and when you get older, you'll be doing some amazing things. You're already blowing people your age out of the water. As always, it's fun to watch. Keep at it man, you've got a bright future ahead of you.
What I really like is how even though there is no English. just by following his hand motions you can tell what he is talking about and what he is doing which I feel like is very appealing and definitely helps out the viewers.
Well Done Its a pleasure to see your Progress Your skills in Metall and Mechanik work are impressiv Go on this little problem cant stop you Yours Frank
building your drivewheel into the front makes it to push the tracks under the tank unstead of pulling it if the drivewheel where in the back there are plenty tanks in history where this system works. To change everything is to much work. Change your Trackconstrucktion is the faster solution . The heads from the screws of your tracklinks seemed to interlock with the drive wheel too because of the sharp edges.
Room for improvement: 1) the hand brakes should be pull engage, not push 2) the clutch should be disengaged by action. Spring applied, so you don't have to hold it in place the entire time 3) the cable retainers are flimsy and the nuts can easily fall off, a stepped/tapered bushing would have been better 4) 16:35 you got the geometry all messy and weak on the "tensioner". Putting it on a less flexible base, with a longer lever or even better a gear set or old clutch cylinder, would be 10x better. 5) I called it on the tracks in the previous video, they are not a good design at all, much needs changed on them to make them reliable Kudos for making this thing, I am sure you are learning lots. All we can do is watch and criticize :)
The problem is that it is front drive, when you drive from the rear, the top pulleys allow it to pull off of the drive gear, so that it will not wrap around the drive gear.
Я думаю все он знает про недочеты возможные, просто схема такая сейчас приветствуется: делаем "каку", устраняем, народ смотрит, приветствует, и коментариев соответственно со советами много, и серий много
Haïti a besoin des génies comme toi mon frère,pour fabriquer des machines comme ça afin de contrecarrer les bandits qui font la pluie et le beau temps. De cette manière, la police sera bien équipée pour faire face aux bandits !🇭🇹🇭🇹
Любой самоход начинать надо с : 1.Для чего использовать. 2. На каком ходу(гусеницы, колёса, поневмошины, шнекоход, пропеллер, или комбинация). 3. Чем это двигать.(лифан, ваз, ока, двигатель от газонокосилки, шуруповерт) 4. Комфорт. (сидеть, смотреть, рулить, и чтоб говно не летело в лицо дороги) 5. Ремонтопригодность в дороге(чтоб уехал за 100... Км и вернулся обратно на том же говне и палках.) 6. Экономичность (что строительство,и что кормление Вашего Монстра)
Сергей, о чем ты, дружище!!! это ж работа варвар с инструментом - кабздец какой то!!! он не то что обдумать назначение ТС не хочет, он ведь даже на шаг вперед свою работу не планирует беспредел
You could probably eliminate the tensioner part with a centrifugal clutch so when it’s idling it won’t take off on ya I haven’t seen this style since working on old rototillers
From the Netherlands a BIG thumbs up!!! (well done and great movie edit skils!) Iz Nizozemske veliki palac gore !!! (dobro urađeno i odlične vještine uređivanja filma!)
Onaj natezač remena je možda trebalo napravit da bude konstantno nategnut preko opruge, a povlačenjem sajle preko pedale poluga natezača bi se odigla, a remen bi proklizavao što je i cilj. Ovako sajla prilikom vožnje mora bit zategnuta. Inaće dobar posao!
عمل جيد ومشجع اتقنت عمل حتى ولو كانت هناك بعد المشاكل لاباس صوف تعالج لانك قمت بي عمل انفرادي دون استعانة بي طاقم المهندسين واعتماد على بعض البرامج لوضع تخطيطات وحسابات على حسوب انا كدالك متلك ارغب في وضع تخطيط لي هيكل يعتمد علا حركة متسلسلة لحفارة ابار مرة ءخرى تحياتي محمد المملكة المغربية 👍👍👍
Pour ne pas avoir ce problème tu aurai du faire l'entrainement des chenilles par l'arrière avec un système de tension par le dessus. Félicitations pour tout le travail
again thanks for the video it adds more work and time to your project just to please us. i did not foresee binding on the drive sprocket as an issue but apparently it is. as i said in my last comment i believe your choice of bolts to join your track segments as a poor one for reasons of probable mechanical failure now the plates joining the segments show another engineering flaw which can easily be fixed by changing to a traditional pin and barrel hinge type of track where even if a pin breaks the track dose not come apart whereas if any one of 8 bolts fails or looses a nut your track will separate . and as stated in previous comment track tension will be an issue for things like binding or stress . easiest fix i can see for your design a telescopic drive shaft and front axle mounted to shocks to keep tension on track after drive sprocket before first road wheel. and lastly on design suggestions some form of suspension for your road wheels your going to have control issues without any . wonderful work so far looks like it will be a lot of fun when finished good luck and looking forward to more još jednom hvala za video koji dodaje više posla i vremena vašem projektu samo da nas ugodite. nisam predvidio vezivanje pogonskog zupčanika kao problem, ali očito je tako. kao što sam rekao u svom posljednjem komentaru, vjerujem da je vaš odabir vijaka za spajanje segmenata staze kao loš zbog razloga vjerojatnog mehaničkog kvara sada ploče koje spajaju segmente pokazuju još jedan inženjerski nedostatak koji se lako može ispraviti promjenom na tradicionalni pin i šarka sa šarkama vrsta tračnice, čak i ako se čep probije doza, ne razdvaja se, a ako neki od 8 vijaka ne uspije ili izgubi maticu, vaš će se trag odvojiti. a kao što je navedeno u prethodnom komentaru napetost će biti problem za stvari poput vezivanja ili stresa. Najjednostavnije što mogu utvrditi za vaš dizajn teleskopska pogonska osovina i prednja osovina postavljena na udarce kako bi se održala napetost na kolosijeku nakon pogonskog lančanika prije prvog kotača ceste. i na kraju, na prijedloge dizajna neki oblik ovjesa za vaše cestovne kotače koji će imati problema s upravljanjem. do sada prekrasan posao izgleda kao da će biti jako zabavno kad završimo sretno i radujemo se još
Part of the problem is that you need to have the drive on the back wheels. The way you have it the slack will always be just behind your front drive wheel. plus some extra lose of power due to some type of setup. but your doing great keep it up.
Drop the position of the first undriven wheel to steepen the track angle so that the track can depart from the toothed drive wheel,hope that makes sense!lol
Не спасет его это.Конструкция ведущей звёздочки не удачная.Если он натянет как-то цепь,то шаг цепи измениться.Зазоры в болтах выберутся.Если бы зубья были треугольные или эвольвентные это ещё как-то бы работало.А сейчас пластинки какие-то.Закусит у него цепь на этой звезде
track tensioner and fabricating two sprockets for each side of the drive train that have pointed teeth to interlink with the track should do the trick.... was hoping this video was going to show the first drive, gonna have to wait a bit longer, hope you get it done before years end good luck
Hi there, great work so far and I think I can see where you are going with this. I thought about your problem of the drive sprockets grabbing the track cleats. It was difficult to see but I think the problem is one where the drive sprocket teeth are a square or "acme" gear profile which locks the teeth to the square profile cleats. I think modifying the drive sprocket tooth profiles would be far easier than modifying the track (by way of numbers). I think that re-shaping the sprocket teeth would be easiest to give a general shape like a double sided "buttress" tooth profile to allow for the apparent increase in width of the sprocket teeth as they leave the track cleats. The track drive wheel teeth of a caterpillar bulldozer spring to mind because they have a tapered profile to avoid jamming in the track. Good luck :) Google prevoditelj Bok tamo, sjajan posao do sada i mislim da vidim kuda ideš s ovim. Pomislio sam na tvoj problem pogonskih zupčanika koji su se hvatali za steznike. Bilo je teško vidjeti, ali mislim da je problem jedan gdje su zubi pogonskog zupčanika kvadratni ili "acme" profil zupčanika koji zaključavaju zube na kvadratnom profilu. Mislim da bi izmjena profila zuba pogonskog zupčanika bila puno lakša od izmjene staze (putem brojeva). Mislim da bi preoblikovanje zuba zupčanika bilo najlakše dati opći oblik poput dvostranog profila "zupčanika" kako bi se omogućilo prividno povećanje širine zuba zupčanika dok oni ostavljaju stazu. Zubi kotača pogonskih gusjenica na gusjeničarskom buldožeru padaju na pamet jer imaju konični profil kako bi se izbjeglo zastoj u stazi. Sretno :)
Druze na pogonske tovackove koji pokrecu gusenicu moras da napravis konusni zubac kao rimska petica V tako nece zadrzavati gusenicu zbog konusa samo joj napravis veci konus i resio si probmem Pozdrav iz Srbije
21:00 when you realize the whole project was designed wrong. I'm sorry I didn't understand what you said at the last part of the video because there are no english captions yet, but I think it's common sense that in order to build a tank, the tension on the tracks must be applied on it's lower part not the upper. So I can suggest that you just try applying a reverse rotation to the differential (that would require a lot of changes :/) and turn the seat & brakes the other way.
@@timjohnson6864 yeah that could save him some work, but still I think the side of the tracks that takes the tension is the wrong one. Also remember there are already rubber tires on the upper side that are a lot closer to the torque motived rim than the lower front rims. I agree that this space between the rims creates the problem.
I have no idea what you said, but I've been worried through this whole project that it wasn't going to move. I hope you can fix the problem. :/ That was a lot of work to build.
Вот бортовые фрикционы и надо было делать на основе ремёной передачи, а не дифференциал. А муфту сцепления лучше центробежную использовать, а также необходимо продумать механизм реверса.
You should probably make repairs and tweaks to make the engine more powerful so it can handle things better. Because in the future, that tank will a get a turret armor and increased weight.
Remove 2 links or make a telescoping rear frame bracket you need a tensioning device or your gonna turn off them tracks every time .Please set up English translation CC .
@@reconnectdoo3194 Much better understanding thanks ,Well really good system i do have a few ideas that will help I`ve built and taken out the problems on mine that was basically the same as you have started , ,How hard is it for you to lower the roller wheels to take up the difference of the track flop , If you use a front small car strut for tension to push the idler wheels on a telescoping method or ya bigger drive wheels will help but every track system does this Hagglund does`nt but rubber is ultimate .
Это фиаско !! Братан!!! Юношеский оптимизм и щенячий восторг разбились о реальную жизнь и физику с механикой... Парень делает видосы ради хайпа. Механика??? Просто игнорируйте ее... Передние ведущие звездочки уже делали немцы на своих танках. Итог печальный. Прежде чем лепить что-то нужно по интересоваться, а что по этой теме уже было сделано до тебя, самого умного и прекрасного. Такой незателивый шаг позволяет не изобретать велосипед по восьмому разу.... Хотя ради хайпа можно все. Плохо что смотрят такие же малолетки недоучки, восхищаются и учатся этим глупостям... После чего Илон Маск для них великий изобретатель. Который сделал только одно открытие - как безнаказанно пилить америкосовский бюджет и себе от этого отлохмачивать. Других открытий у этого великого изобретателя нет.
Либо я не шарю вообще, либо просто чего-то не догнал. Но! Как он организовал сцепление? От дефференциала ведёт кардан, который ремнями связан со звездой коленвала. Каким образом оно едет?
смотрю внимательно с первого видео и многое не могу уловить, почему бы первую звезду не сделать натяжным колесом, а задний валик будет ведущей звездой?
@@protostarboyprotostarboy3892 Там сцепление на ремнях. Ослабляя ремни отключаем двигатель от трансмиссии и наоборот. посмотрите в интернете, на такой схеме много мотоблоков и небольших тракторов сейчас ездит
Mate, just use a continuously variable transmission, eh? It'll be way smoother gearing as you need it and you'll get all the power that motor has to give without worrying about the belt wearing out or stretching. That, and grind your track's drive teeth into down so they hook up and release easier. Good work.
Need to put some grease on the track links. The tracks are binding due to a lack of lubrication. Even a bicycle chain will bind if not properly lubricated.
@@BigBlueMotors more track tension and mechanism to adjust it when necessary. All tanks have way of adjusting position of wheel furthest from driving sprocet for this purpose.
In reading a few of the comments below that are in english, I'm happy to see that they are positive and offer good suggestions. This build has been fearless and aggressive from the beginning and there's no doubt that a few problems like this will come up. This young builder is amazing and his fabrication and engineering skill is remarkable. There's no doubt in my mind that he will overcome this track drive problem I look forward to his remedy. Full ahead young man! You are truly an inspiration to all of us who like to build. You do one heck of a great job with the barest essentials.
i suspected this would happen. If you replace all track bolts with carriage bolts you'll have more clearance and the hemispherical head of the bolt will allow all wheels to glide by. As for the teeth for the drive sprockets, they just need to be made triangular, but in doing so you'll need to make your idler wheels able to adjust tension on the tracks like any normal tracked vehicle. Easiest way to do the tensioning system is either copy Soviet or British designs on their tanks or copy designs used on precision rifle stocks for adjusting length of pull.
Sounds like good ideas, looking forward to next video to see what happens.
I am enjoying this series immensely. I love watching young people being creative, using tools, and learning new things. (I'm a Physics teacher.) You're doing a great job, keep it up.
I'm going to go back and rewatch once the translations are available...
That sounds like something I'd do to, re-watch with english translations is available.
Another great video!! Love the rough and ready construction of this!! Keep it up!
And to all the comments saying the binding is because of it using a front drive and not a rear.... wrong, most/all IFVs (infantry fighting vehicles) such as the British Warrior, or US Bradley use a front drive train. The problem lies with track tension and the sharp flat edges of the drive cog(sprocket). In the case of a Warrior the sprocket has rounded flat cone shapes teeth which locks with rounded holes in the track thus it doesn’t jam. If the track is too slack we still get some binding but because the teeth are thinner at the top than the bottom it pops off... they also only use 2 drive sprockets with 2 supporting wheels in between not a long flat bar along the full length of the drive station. I would recommend finding a way to tighten the track first so there is no slack along your top rollers before altering too much see if this solves it Not sure if this info will help Doctor D.S. but I look forward to seeing how you fix this 👌👌
Add a tensioner wheel of some sort between the driving wheels and bottom driven wheels, as a extra plate for the foot pedal cable linkage bracket for strength off the chassis, noticed it was a little weak when you were pressing the pedal to engage the drive. Good workmanship, keep it up bud.👍
How many who have commented have built one ...how many are ? ...so as i see it ...he has created something amazing from nothing , and problem solving is easier if its built and running ...not ever on paper or even computers ...I applaud you DS , great build ...I think the design and build is excellent, thank you for uploading great videos 👍😊
ر ءع
One of the most gifted 'Tinkers' on TH-cam...
This guys will always have a job/career!!
As a side note....it always appears to be raining...Where is this, what nationality are you?
I'm guessing something like Finland, Denmark, or similar...
And as an even further post...The issue @ 21:00, is from those freaking Hex head bolts you used on the treads...
Like I stated in an earlier post, you should use round-headed bolts, then....done deal...
You keep on this path, and when you get older, you'll be doing some amazing things. You're already blowing people your age out of the water. As always, it's fun to watch. Keep at it man, you've got a bright future ahead of you.
What I really like is how even though there is no English. just by following his hand motions you can tell what he is talking about and what he is doing which I feel like is very appealing and definitely helps out the viewers.
Well Done
Its a pleasure to see your Progress
Your skills in Metall and Mechanik work are impressiv
Go on this little problem cant stop you
Yours Frank
building your drivewheel into the front makes it to push the tracks under the tank unstead of pulling it if the drivewheel where in the back there are plenty tanks in history where this system works. To change everything is to much work. Change your Trackconstrucktion is the faster solution . The heads from the screws of your tracklinks seemed to interlock with the drive wheel too because of the sharp edges.
One man army , only single person doing all jobs , hats off to you
Add a tension wheel (with teeth, if needed) to the exit side of the tracks to keep the spacing.
Good job bro you're a genius! 👍👍
Room for improvement:
1) the hand brakes should be pull engage, not push
2) the clutch should be disengaged by action. Spring applied, so you don't have to hold it in place the entire time
3) the cable retainers are flimsy and the nuts can easily fall off, a stepped/tapered bushing would have been better
4) 16:35 you got the geometry all messy and weak on the "tensioner". Putting it on a less flexible base, with a longer lever or even better a gear set or old clutch cylinder, would be 10x better.
5) I called it on the tracks in the previous video, they are not a good design at all, much needs changed on them to make them reliable
Kudos for making this thing, I am sure you are learning lots. All we can do is watch and criticize :)
Another great video and progress on your project,keep going,👍🏻
Greatings diverpoa! Saludo desde Ivoti/RS 🤜🤛🇧🇷🇧🇷
The problem is that it is front drive, when you drive from the rear, the top pulleys allow it to pull off of the drive gear, so that it will not wrap around the drive gear.
-Normal people: uff fix the car is so hard.
-Croatian guy: *creates a tank*
YESS!!!!🙌🙌🙌
Я думаю все он знает про недочеты возможные, просто схема такая сейчас приветствуется: делаем "каку", устраняем, народ смотрит, приветствует, и коментариев соответственно со советами много, и серий много
До кучи монетизация включена, человек от просмотров денежку зарабатывает
Подборка ЛУЧШИЙ АВТОРЖАЧ 2019
+
Very kool stuff and good job, sucks the track bound up like that.
I keep thinking the tracks need a tensioner just like you did the belt.
Ánimo tío!! Parte 8 del video. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👌👌👌👌👌👌 Saludos desde españa🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸eres un máquina!!
Привет из России , советую посмотреть как делают вездеходы у нас на родине , удачи с проектом 😉P.S. где реверсредуктор ! Для вездехода это критично !
Owh yeahh.....to many problem, go...go...go!!!
Nice job
Haïti a besoin des génies comme toi mon frère,pour fabriquer des machines comme ça afin de contrecarrer les bandits qui font la pluie et le beau temps.
De cette manière, la police sera bien équipée pour faire face aux bandits !🇭🇹🇭🇹
Любой самоход начинать надо с :
1.Для чего использовать.
2. На каком ходу(гусеницы, колёса, поневмошины, шнекоход, пропеллер, или комбинация).
3. Чем это двигать.(лифан, ваз, ока, двигатель от газонокосилки, шуруповерт)
4. Комфорт. (сидеть, смотреть, рулить, и чтоб говно не летело в лицо дороги)
5. Ремонтопригодность в дороге(чтоб уехал за 100... Км и вернулся обратно на том же говне и палках.)
6. Экономичность (что строительство,и что кормление Вашего Монстра)
Сергей, о чем ты, дружище!!!
это ж работа варвар с инструментом - кабздец какой то!!!
он не то что обдумать назначение ТС не хочет, он ведь даже на шаг вперед свою работу не планирует
беспредел
@@alfox5943 Ну ему главное видео запилить чтоб смотрели и он это сделал.
Подвеска без амортизаторов! - Всю душу вытрясет.
памятнику амортизаторы не нужны
You could probably eliminate the tensioner part with a centrifugal clutch so when it’s idling it won’t take off on ya I haven’t seen this style since working on old rototillers
Legit metal tracks... lots of people just use rubber. Great authenticity.
excelente trabajo. Saludos de Argentina
Não vejo a hora de ver esse tanque pronto. Parabéns pelos vídeos DoctorDS. Assitindo você aqui do Brasil.
From the Netherlands a BIG thumbs up!!! (well done and great movie edit skils!)
Iz Nizozemske veliki palac gore !!! (dobro urađeno i odlične vještine uređivanja filma!)
I just wish I had his energy put into my 65 yer old body! Great job, I can't wait to see where this goes, er' ends up!
Onaj natezač remena je možda trebalo napravit da bude konstantno nategnut preko opruge, a povlačenjem sajle preko pedale poluga natezača bi se odigla, a remen bi proklizavao što je i cilj. Ovako sajla prilikom vožnje mora bit zategnuta. Inaće dobar posao!
Who wants to hang out and build shit with this guy, i will bring beer.
reccee boy 123 if I only lived closer! Great idea 🙂🇺🇸
Buy my plane ticket an ill buy the beer 🍺
قارب إختراعك الجميل من الإنتهاء ، أحسنت واصل العمل ممتاز 👏👏👏👍👍👍😉
عمل جيد ومشجع اتقنت عمل حتى ولو كانت هناك بعد المشاكل لاباس صوف تعالج لانك قمت بي عمل انفرادي دون استعانة بي طاقم المهندسين واعتماد على بعض البرامج لوضع تخطيطات وحسابات على حسوب انا كدالك متلك ارغب في وضع تخطيط لي هيكل يعتمد علا حركة متسلسلة لحفارة ابار مرة ءخرى تحياتي محمد المملكة المغربية 👍👍👍
Ypu sir are a mechanical genius. Iam so impressed how you just improvised everything....I want you on my team brother.
Pour ne pas avoir ce problème tu aurai du faire l'entrainement des chenilles par l'arrière avec un système de tension par le dessus. Félicitations pour tout le travail
Dečko tako mlad ,tako talentovan a i mnogo simpatičan,sviđa mi se tvoj rad i tvoje ponašanje skidam ti kapu što bi rekli mi srbi.živeo ti i napredovao
Hvala puno ;)
@@DShomemade kada ćeš nešto novo praviti (delati)
Šta reći.Čovek je maistor svega
SVAKA ČAST,SAMO NAPRED!!!
najjači si
What's up DS your build is going nicely . Will. Ya finish it after the new year ? You got great skills for a young man !!
again thanks for the video it adds more work and time to your project just to please us. i did not foresee binding on the drive sprocket as an issue but apparently it is. as i said in my last comment i believe your choice of bolts to join your track segments as a poor one for reasons of probable mechanical failure now the plates joining the segments show another engineering flaw which can easily be fixed by changing to a traditional pin and barrel hinge type of track where even if a pin breaks the track dose not come apart whereas if any one of 8 bolts fails or looses a nut your track will separate . and as stated in previous comment track tension will be an issue for things like binding or stress . easiest fix i can see for your design a telescopic drive shaft and front axle mounted to shocks to keep tension on track after drive sprocket before first road wheel. and lastly on design suggestions some form of suspension for your road wheels your going to have control issues without any . wonderful work so far looks like it will be a lot of fun when finished good luck and looking forward to more
još jednom hvala za video koji dodaje više posla i vremena vašem projektu samo da nas ugodite. nisam predvidio vezivanje pogonskog zupčanika kao problem, ali očito je tako. kao što sam rekao u svom posljednjem komentaru, vjerujem da je vaš odabir vijaka za spajanje segmenata staze kao loš zbog razloga vjerojatnog mehaničkog kvara sada ploče koje spajaju segmente pokazuju još jedan inženjerski nedostatak koji se lako može ispraviti promjenom na tradicionalni pin i šarka sa šarkama vrsta tračnice, čak i ako se čep probije doza, ne razdvaja se, a ako neki od 8 vijaka ne uspije ili izgubi maticu, vaš će se trag odvojiti. a kao što je navedeno u prethodnom komentaru napetost će biti problem za stvari poput vezivanja ili stresa. Najjednostavnije što mogu utvrditi za vaš dizajn teleskopska pogonska osovina i prednja osovina postavljena na udarce kako bi se održala napetost na kolosijeku nakon pogonskog lančanika prije prvog kotača ceste. i na kraju, na prijedloge dizajna neki oblik ovjesa za vaše cestovne kotače koji će imati problema s upravljanjem. do sada prekrasan posao izgleda kao da će biti jako zabavno kad završimo sretno i radujemo se još
Impressive! You could collab with MasterMilo!
Я то думал он 30 метров проедет и шляпки болтов на гусеницах срежет или катки разорвёт, а он даже тронуться не смог.
Espero con ansias el próximo video!! Buen trabajo.
Weld some iron plates on it and a hatch on top and also a peek hole on the front and it will work like a normal tank! Do it!
Part of the problem is that you need to have the drive on the back wheels. The way you have it the slack will always be just behind your front drive wheel. plus some extra lose of power due to some type of setup. but your doing great keep it up.
Bravo komplimenti 👍👍👍
Drop the position of the first undriven wheel to steepen the track angle so that the track can depart from the toothed drive wheel,hope that makes sense!lol
Good job brather ..
👍👍👍👍
I wonder how much time you spent on this job? And how much did you spend on this project? Good job. Interesting channel!)
The tracks are always a problem with tanks, you should think about a tensioner for the tracks to take out the flex when moving or turning.
tracks should drive from the rear so it can keep tight. looks like its gonna be fun...
That's why the rear wheels should be the drive wheels...
Smart young man, you should work in the big corporations and hold a higher machines position , with good future. Wish you have a good luck.
your drive gears and transmission should be in the rear to to keep your caterpillar tracks from binding up.
This is why, Yugoslavia was strong. Everyone made tanks at home.
Approved by Yugoslavia.
Jedva čekam da vidim tenk jako dobro odradjrno i probleme vidiš kako rješit super bravo majstore
На линивцах натяжители сделай.И проблем с траками не будит.
Да, это надо.
Не спасет его это.Конструкция ведущей звёздочки не удачная.Если он натянет как-то цепь,то шаг цепи измениться.Зазоры в болтах выберутся.Если бы зубья были треугольные или эвольвентные это ещё как-то бы работало.А сейчас пластинки какие-то.Закусит у него цепь на этой звезде
@@Pikulev_Evgeniy Понятно.Я чтот внемания не обротил на его конструкцию ведущей звездочки.Он вообще не звезду не правельно сделал.Не зацепы на траках!
Brasil, tank you PART 7 love you
Svaka čast momak👏👏👏
:D
Thanks for sharing such wonderful content with your audience. It is very interesting stuff. I appreciate all the work put into it. Sincere thanks!
Desde Argentina 🇦🇷 veo tus videos
track tensioner and fabricating two sprockets for each side of the drive train that have pointed teeth to interlink with the track should do the trick.... was hoping this video was going to show the first drive, gonna have to wait a bit longer, hope you get it done before years end good luck
Ko
Hi there, great work so far and I think I can see where you are going with this. I thought about your problem of the drive sprockets grabbing the track cleats. It was difficult to see but I think the problem is one where the drive sprocket teeth are a square or "acme" gear profile which locks the teeth to the square profile cleats. I think modifying the drive sprocket tooth profiles would be far easier than modifying the track (by way of numbers). I think that re-shaping the sprocket teeth would be easiest to give a general shape like a double sided "buttress" tooth profile to allow for the apparent increase in width of the sprocket teeth as they leave the track cleats. The track drive wheel teeth of a caterpillar bulldozer spring to mind because they have a tapered profile to avoid jamming in the track. Good luck :)
Google prevoditelj
Bok tamo, sjajan posao do sada i mislim da vidim kuda ideš s ovim. Pomislio sam na tvoj problem pogonskih zupčanika koji su se hvatali za steznike. Bilo je teško vidjeti, ali mislim da je problem jedan gdje su zubi pogonskog zupčanika kvadratni ili "acme" profil zupčanika koji zaključavaju zube na kvadratnom profilu. Mislim da bi izmjena profila zuba pogonskog zupčanika bila puno lakša od izmjene staze (putem brojeva). Mislim da bi preoblikovanje zuba zupčanika bilo najlakše dati opći oblik poput dvostranog profila "zupčanika" kako bi se omogućilo prividno povećanje širine zuba zupčanika dok oni ostavljaju stazu. Zubi kotača pogonskih gusjenica na gusjeničarskom buldožeru padaju na pamet jer imaju konični profil kako bi se izbjeglo zastoj u stazi. Sretno :)
بيياابي. قليالغتت
غلتىتعنلزغت
Looking good! If it was me I'd run the brake levers at 180° so you pull instead of pushing to stop one side?
Thinking the same. Unconventional skid steer.
Ahhh I so waited to see it goes
Super si. Nastavite dobro raditi.
Ты крут продолжай в том же духе.
You are awesome. Keep up the good work.
สิ่งประดิษฐ์ ที่คุณ ทำสร้างขึ้นมา มันน่า ทึ่งมากครับ..นายช่าง ( คุณเอา ความรู้มาจากไหน?) ความรู้ ระดับ วิศวกรเลยทีเดียว...กดติดตาม ครับ...
Tensioning the belts from the inner side will make them last longer, their wear-side is on the inside...
But great build so far!
:-D
Druze na pogonske tovackove koji pokrecu gusenicu moras da napravis konusni zubac kao rimska petica V tako nece zadrzavati gusenicu zbog konusa samo joj napravis veci konus i resio si probmem
Pozdrav iz Srbije
Svaka čast, na znanju i volji
21:00 when you realize the whole project was designed wrong. I'm sorry I didn't understand what you said at the last part of the video because there are no english captions yet, but I think it's common sense that in order to build a tank, the tension on the tracks must be applied on it's lower part not the upper. So I can suggest that you just try applying a reverse rotation to the differential (that would require a lot of changes :/) and turn the seat & brakes the other way.
Alls hed have to do is put a rubber tire in where its binding and it should be fine
@@timjohnson6864 yeah that could save him some work, but still I think the side of the tracks that takes the tension is the wrong one. Also remember there are already rubber tires on the upper side that are a lot closer to the torque motived rim than the lower front rims. I agree that this space between the rims creates the problem.
2:35 1. подшипники разные по типу и внутреннему диаметру. 2.болт из стали низкого качества.
I have no idea what you said, but I've been worried through this whole project that it wasn't going to move. I hope you can fix the problem. :/ That was a lot of work to build.
Sretan božić i nova godina
Looking forward to the next episode! Awesome 👏👍🇺🇸
Вот бортовые фрикционы и надо было делать на основе ремёной передачи, а не дифференциал. А муфту сцепления лучше центробежную использовать, а также необходимо продумать механизм реверса.
Или вариатор ему писали он сказал ноу варик.Ремни разорвет сделает или цинтробежку или варик :)
Bravo majstore,svaka čast.
Brilliant..where did you learn all that young man? Great vid..keep up👍
You should probably make repairs and tweaks to make the engine more powerful so it can handle things better.
Because in the future, that tank will a get a turret armor and increased weight.
BRAVO BRATE PLUS CESTITAM TI NA 1M SUBOVA
Koliki trud ,Svaka cast .
Чёт парниша как взеркале всю механику рассматривал. Рычаги управления от себя работают, сцепу держать постоянно ногой нужно
Thanks man this is helping me building my tank the panzer
Make the tracks tighter and take the rubber off the tires if you can. Make it so the tracks have a clean flat level all the way across
I feel like that belt tensioner clutch will burn up the belt really fast...
Jos malo pa milionce
svaka cast car si
hehehe da daa
I always wait bro
Remove 2 links or make a telescoping rear frame bracket you need a tensioning device or your gonna turn off them tracks every time .Please set up English translation CC .
.
@@reconnectdoo3194 Really didn't see any subtitles on screen !
@@GarnettM you ar apsolutley right, my bed
@@reconnectdoo3194 Much better understanding thanks ,Well really good system i do have a few ideas that will help I`ve built and taken out the problems on mine that was basically the same as you have started , ,How hard is it for you to lower the roller wheels to take up the difference of the track flop , If you use a front small car strut for tension to push the idler wheels on a telescoping method or ya bigger drive wheels will help but every track system does this Hagglund does`nt but rubber is ultimate .
Это фиаско !! Братан!!!
Юношеский оптимизм и щенячий восторг разбились о реальную жизнь и физику с механикой...
Парень делает видосы ради хайпа. Механика??? Просто игнорируйте ее...
Передние ведущие звездочки уже делали немцы на своих танках. Итог печальный. Прежде чем лепить что-то нужно по интересоваться, а что по этой теме уже было сделано до тебя, самого умного и прекрасного. Такой незателивый шаг позволяет не изобретать велосипед по восьмому разу....
Хотя ради хайпа можно все. Плохо что смотрят такие же малолетки недоучки, восхищаются и учатся этим глупостям...
После чего Илон Маск для них великий изобретатель. Который сделал только одно открытие - как безнаказанно пилить америкосовский бюджет и себе от этого отлохмачивать. Других открытий у этого великого изобретателя нет.
Либо я не шарю вообще, либо просто чего-то не догнал. Но! Как он организовал сцепление? От дефференциала ведёт кардан, который ремнями связан со звездой коленвала. Каким образом оно едет?
смотрю внимательно с первого видео и многое не могу уловить, почему бы первую звезду не сделать натяжным колесом, а задний валик будет ведущей звездой?
@@protostarboyprotostarboy3892 Там сцепление на ремнях. Ослабляя ремни отключаем двигатель от трансмиссии и наоборот. посмотрите в интернете, на такой схеме много мотоблоков и небольших тракторов сейчас ездит
Valera VM, понял, спасибо!
Ты хоть за свою жизнь хоть одну собачью будку с делал.
English subtitles plss!!!
++ yes, this please!
The successor of the Bob Semple Tank: the D.S. Tank.
Mate, just use a continuously variable transmission, eh? It'll be way smoother gearing as you need it and you'll get all the power that motor has to give without worrying about the belt wearing out or stretching. That, and grind your track's drive teeth into down so they hook up and release easier. Good work.
Бентли-ультратанк на минималках 😄
You got mad skills there, you should take engineering . The best way to learn is to try so don't take the naysayers to seriously.
Svaka cast kralju samo nastavi
You are the best as always
Need to put some grease on the track links. The tracks are binding due to a lack of lubrication. Even a bicycle chain will bind if not properly lubricated.
that seems like agreat idea to glue some dirt on the tracks.
@@FlyingSnake110 Any suggestions? Keep in mind that he didn't use roller chain, but made his own links from what appeared to be cold rolled flatbar.
@@BigBlueMotors more track tension and mechanism to adjust it when necessary.
All tanks have way of adjusting position of wheel furthest from driving sprocet for this purpose.