Codys Lab is the best youtube channel, especially among the makers. I love how he just does whatever he wants, its always informative and fun to watch, and there's never any filler or clickbait. And he's just an awesome person. Thank you Cody for all the great content over the years, I will always look forward to your videos.
I have to admit that I sometimes don't understand half what he's talking about. But for about 10 years I'm enjoying these videos like no other. They leave you with a special feeling behind.
That should actually be easier than you think. All he'd have to do is, neutralize the acid (and that might not even be necessary) then use the resulting liquid as an electro-plating solution. No need to extract the Zinc first.
I really appreciate that you haven't changed how you operate in these videos. Stripping zinc off a chain? No fancy vent hoods or anything just a bucket outside. Really makes me feel like I could do these projects and makes what you teach connect easier to me.
I think youre almost at a problem thats common in DIY and our society at large, we tend to think 'whats the best way to do this?' and the restrict ourselves to doing just that without considering there is probably a much more accesible, less resource intensive and cheaper way of doing something.
The problem is the people who make these videos are usually highly educated in the field and know how to do it safely. Even if it looks like they're doing it in their back yard. Many things aren't explained because it's not entertaining or they do it subconsciously. This video is more on the side of doable though.
I should add, you can do pretty much anything at home that's where most of this stuff was invented but definitely do independent research. Make sure what you're doing is safety, learn how to dispose of chemicals properly, and make sure you have multiple sources outside of just TH-cam videos.
Never knew how much I actually needed a Chain-Chainmail blanket , Reduces my anxiety of from constantly thinking people with sword cannons are gonna get me in my sleep and doubles as a therapeutic weighted blanket. Can't thank you enough Cody, your doing Gods work.
When Iron is heated it's grains takes on a variety of crystal structures at different temperatures, if allowed to cool slowly (annealing) the metal reverts back into it's plastic pliable form, when heated and quenched suddenly it locks the iron into what's called face-centered cubic lattice locking all the atoms in place making the metal harder.
Yes, but actually no. It's not getting locked into face-centered structure, you only need that because of its higher solubility for carbon in that structure. You can tell from hardened and tempered steel being magnetic, while the face-centered structure is non-magnetic (see stainless steel with high nickel content).
1. Heat steel above certain temperature 2. Steel becomes austenitic (face centered), which has high carbon uptake 3. Quench 4. Iron rapidly reverts to body centered crystal structure which has lower carbon uptake 5. Carbon atoms don't have enough time to diffuse out of the crystals since diffusion is a rate and temperature dependent process 6. Carbon is forced to stay inside of the body centered crystals and creates compressive stresses, which increases hardness
Imagine being in the same state as Cody and wanting to get some 2/0 chain “Damn this Walmart is sold out, maybe I’ll try this other one” “Them too? Damn lemme try another” 10 Walmarts later “What the fuck, who is buying all this chain”
Hey Cody, when you're quenching the material, it's better to move it up and down in the water, because if you just place it in the water bath the immediate liquid around the hot metal will create a bubble of vapor around it which will prevent the water from being as effective as it should quenching the material. This is what many smiths are taught, so if you watch videos of them forging things, this is why they sort of bob the material in the quench bath.
This is far more of an issue for an oil quench than a water quench. Yes, the steam jacket forms in both quenching media, but water vapor is still very heat conductive, and will therefore still cool the metal quickly. The Grossmann H-Value (a measure of quenching intensity) for water without agitation is 1.0, while the same for oil without agitation is 0.25. An oil quench with violent agitation (which is beyond what most smiths will ever do, and probably impossible to even achieve with a workpiece as large as the one Cody was working with here) is around 0.8 to 1.10, which means that the highest cooling rate possible with oil is roughly equivalent to the cooling rate of water with zero agitation. Extrapolating this principle, an oil quench with moderate agitation (which is what most smiths will use), with an H value of 0.4 or so, produces significantly slower cooling when compared to a non-agitated water quench. Moreover, using water AND moderate agitation produces an H-value of 1.3, while strong agitation has an H-value of 2.0, and violent agitation can get all the way up to 4.0 - all of these options cool the steel far faster than oil ever could, and thus the more you agitate in water, the more likely you are to risk shattering your workpiece.
I'd argue your metallurgy isn't 100% sound but your concepts are right. In short, while carbon molecules are relevant, tempering an annealing has more to do with the alignment of crystals in the metal matrix. When metal is hot, crystals align themselves with each other. When cooled slowly the crystals can form or settle in a random configuration. When metal is cooled quickly, the crystals are all remain aligned making them strong. Cooling in Water can be problematic compared with cooling in oil. But it can be done and without a doubt the additional annealing worked great for chain mail armour. Great Video.
Cody's Lab. The channel where you can find pilot mars experiments that help NASA. And medival chain mail all in one place. I love this channel, Cody you've taught me a lot about chemistry and industrialization. And I wanted to say thank you for always making videos about stuff that you like, instead of trying to appease the youtube algorithm. Keep doing what you love
Need to put a cloth backing on it though for sure, chainmail loves to pinch ya. Most weighted blankets I've had use steel shot. This one might end up a bit too heavy to be safe lol
Chainmail binding is so therapeutic. Like sit in a sofa with a bucket on your left, bucket on your right and just adding bit by bit. It's fun. Better than TV, that's for sure.
@@michaelroberts1064 Yep, that appeared to be standard oxyacetylene welding. The torch melts the base metal and the rod provides filler. The burning gas produces carbon dioxide that provides some shielding to reduce oxidation. It's a fun process, quiet and calm, but not quite as clean as TIG.
@@dave7038 thanks for the explanation. there's a lot i don't know about tools and how to make things, but i'd really like to learn more, and i appreciate it when others share their knowledge.
If you ever want to do something similar to torch welding but don't have access to a torch and gas bottles, you can do something similar with an AC arc welder if you make a holder for a couple of carbon rods called an arc torch. Generating an arc between the two rods will produce a sort of flame that can heat metal without consuming an electrode or creating a deposit like stick welding. I've done that myself, and while it is less controlled than using oxyacetylene, it is great for doing torch style welding or for heating up metal to red hot. I bent a piece of cast iron using my home made carbon arc torch.
Well, this is pretty much how anthropologists and archeologists identify where the smith's house of a settlement was. The soil samples and residue metals, coal, slag, etc.
Oh this was a collab with the Waterjet Channel too?! Nice! Was that your initiative or theirs? Either way, great to see that things are looking up for you again!
You can also make a ribbon of Euro 4 in 1 by twisting the 2 in 1 chain until it binds and then linking open rings through the top or bottom (whichever side is lacking the rings in the binding pattern.) Could help save time in future endeavors, since you wouldn't have to cut and reweave so many rings.
Not sure what you mean about twisting the chain, but he definitely could have reduced the weaving/welding time if he left 2/3 of the chains intact. (Not that the actual weaving was the time consuming part here.) Instead of opening 50% of the links, he could've only opened 33% of the links, reducing the amount of welding by a third.
@elongated_muskrat_is_my_name No. Instead, it would form the bottom and center of a single ribbon of mail. It's hard to explain in the context of a comment, as it involves some visuals. I might make a video on it sometime.
I used to make chainmaille, but I never thought of using chain to make it. The aspect ratio of the chain looked perfect for 4 into 1 European, and the welding looked spot on. Now that you have made chainmaille using comically oversize links, would be awesome to see chainmaille made out of comically tiny links.
@@Ydnar1155 if i remember correctly he did monetize his channel at some point long ago but youtube seemed to absolutely hate his guts back in those days, constantly demonetizing, age restricting and sometimes even deleting his videos. at some point, probably during the ad-pocalypse, he just stopped trying to monetize his video probably becose it wasnt worth his time to try to make everything ad friendly just to still get demonetized for no reason. he might not even have reactivated ads, the ad PG-Shaun saw might be placed there by youtube and not cody, and if thats the case he does not get ad revenue from it, youtube takes it all. now he makes his own money with sponsors and patreon and thats much better than having to deal with adsense's tomfoolery for an income
On the plus side...you would never really need to make like, thousands at once. Most likely blacksmiths/armoursmiths just made square patches like Cody did in between jobs, keeping themselves busy, and building up a supply to make a chain hauberk or shirt much quicker than if they started from scratch when someone ordered one.
@@dposcuroPlus chain mail was super expensive, even after plate armor was invented. It would probably be akin to buying a car nowadays. You would be pretty well off selling one as a blacksmith. Most footmen relied on cheaper gambesons, which was much easier to produce and required no smithing.
Heat treat furnace operator and materials lab tech checking in! the decarburization you're describing is actually happening in your furnace during the high heat stage because of the uncontrolled atmosphere in your furnace, the carbon on the surface of the steel, usually in the first few thousandths of an inch, reacts with Oxygen in the atmosphere and draws carbon out of the steel. The quench you use isn't affecting how much carbon is retained in the material so much since it started decarbing the second it got above 1000 degrees or so. When you heat treat carbon seel, the resulting hardness isn't a product of losing/retaining carbon in the material, Rather the iron and other carbides in the steel form a different crystal lattice around the carbon in the steel at different temperatures, and the speed at which you cool the material will actually "lock" those structures into place. The slow cooling of an anneal process yields a long, large crystal structure, known as pearlite which results in a more ductile material. When you quenched the links back into the water from high heat, you aren't locking carbon into the material, rather transforming the grain structure from what's called austenite at that high critical temperature, to what's called Martensite, which is the grain structure of all quenched-and-temper steels after heat treating. Let's talk Austenite for a second! This is the crystal structure of any carbon steel alloy at its critical temperature. It's the smallest grain size and is also the most hard/brittle, and is often retained in pockets throughout the material in the quench, which causes stresses in the material which causes distortion/cracking. When you do the temper, you help transform the pockets of retained Austenite into Martensite, thus a more homogeneous grain structure and distribution of carbides and carbon in the iron solution. If you were to take one of your quench and tempered links and ground into them gradually, I'm sure you will find that they actually get harder and harder as you remove the decarbed material on the surface and made it down to that sweet sweet martensitic goodness underneath! The shapes of the crystal lattices are base centered cubics, face centered cubics and face centered tetragonal and the amount of iron atoms in each one changes as the material moves from room temp up to high heat and back to room temp either by way of a fast quench or the slow cool. Thanks for being you and putting in the work to share all of your amazing projects with all of us! And let me know if you'd like to get some of the things you've heard treated under a microscope to see how you did on your quench and temper!
Before I ever paint galvanized steel I always swab the surface with a HCL moistened rag for proper paint adhesion. Hardened and high carbon steel rusts slowly. 1005/1020 steel, CRCQ steel & low carbon steel will rust quickly. The chain mail skirt on my suit of armour has flat links probably so the weld joint is over-lapped, heated, & pounded to fuse the joined ends together. Back then there was no oxy-acetylene torch & filler rod to weld links together. I would never have the patience to make chain mail. With that said I commend Cody for doing all the work on this video.
I put anything zinc coated in regular vinegar. Then I dump it in a baking soda water solution to stop the rusting process and the iron is as is. I do the same to remove mill scale on regular steel from the local shop.
4:01 the term you are looking for is anneal. Annealing the steel is the process of heating, then slow cooling, to make it more malleable and thus easier to work with.
11:00 cavemen used to cook like this before they invented containers that can be used to boil the water directly. they heated rocks in a fire and placed it in thier water to boil it. when i saw the amount of water compared to the amount of steel i expected it to violently boil for quite a while
I have enjoyed your channel for a long time. Generally i would not feel the need to correct any of your statements but, i feel like this is important with respect to material mechanics. Heating and cooling steel when you heat a steel and allow it cool slowly the process is called annealing. this process is not releasing carbon you are infact changing the crystaline structure from martensite to pearlite. when you heat steel up to orange hot you are not changing the carbon you are creating austenite. when you quench you are locking the austenite into stucture into place. when you temper the steel you are changing the crystalline structure to martensite. the only time you release the carbon is when the steel oxidizes ie the black iron oxide stuff that comes off the steel.
I'd have put one arm of the bolt cutters in a vice with the other arm upward when cutting the links. This would eliminate the unsteadiness of the bolt cutter, reducing the risk of injury.
I once tried to make chain maille from 6ga galvanized wire. Links were about 1.5" and making and cutting the coils quickly proved more effort than it could possibly be worth
this channel is my alltime favourite no matter how i may change i think i’ll allways whatch these videos, thanks for all the great stuff cody! ❤ edit: the chain chainmail looks great!
If you're in an environment where chainmail is a tactical advantage you definitely want to be known as The Black Knight. Notoriety gives you a +2 AC against attacks by weapons from the Ancients like the dreaded AR-15.
3:15 Prolonged heat and letting it cool slowly the iron crystalline structure can grow. The results (after plunging it into cold water), not only harder again but makes it brittle due to the over size crystal structure.
My fiance and i watch you all the time Cody. Your patience and perseverance is amazing and inspiring. We love you! As you always have, never change and always be you! You are the best part of humanity!
That's pretty cool! I bet the hardening and tempering really made a difference to usefully tough the mail is at actually stopping stuff breaking it or getting through. Hope you got some oil or anti-rust protectant on it though, looks like some sections are already rusting.
For the love of god, people. If anyone tests chainmail, put padding under it. You never wear chainmail without padding. It is both for comfort, and is also an integral part of the defense.
Silks were used to fret arrow heads where weight considerations forced looser weaves. Still, almost always cotton pads for cooling comfort and shock absorption.
@@johnbennett1465 Probably for monetary reason. I guess some people could either afford a gambeson, or a chainmail, and had to choose. I'd go for the chain as well. Sure I might get pinched and bruised, but at least I won't get stabbed or slashed.
If you want the iron not to rust after the zinc stripping you can dip it in some alkaline solution ( litte bit of lye or baking soda in water) and it will prevent some corrosion for a shorter while
Make friends with problem solvers. They complain less and find solutions to problems or answers to questions, instead of sitting there complaining that life isn't fair. Cody's an absolute unit. Great video, as always.
I think the point about the carbon leaving the iron crystals is good, i wouldn't have considered that aspect if you didn't mention it. First thing i was thinking about was the grain size being larger with the slow cooling which makes it more ductile, if you were to quench it the grain size would be smaller (more rigid and brittle) and also depending on the quench it might be a very hard outer skin almost instead of a uniform grain structure. Also.. love you and your videos man
Fun video Cody !!! I'm assuming mail made from this chain would be way too heavy to wear. Correct? Did you decide to quench in water instead of oil just for cost and convenience or is there another reason? How are you going to keep it from rusting now that the zinc is removed? Do you oil it? Thanks.
love ur videos only 1 question tho why did u go to walmart for chain why not a hardware store u prob paid 2 or 3 times more then u should have for it would have been cheaper at a hardware store buying in bulk
Mail means 'Chain' so most people are mistaken when they call it 'chainmail', that's like calling it 'Chain Chain', but yours is actually made from chain so it's probably the first true Chainmail or Chain Chain.
It seems like you should be able to knit together strands of chain with open links instead of cutting every other link. In other words, keep lengths of chain with twice as many links as you want per row. Hook links 1 and 3 together with an open ring then connect to links 1 and 3 on the next chain. Continue doing that with pairs of odd links. For adding the next chain you'd be using sets of even links from the original chain and the next chain you're adding. One length of unbroken chain would result in 2 rows of maille and you'd only need one row of open rings for every 3 rows of maille. Less cutting and less welding.
@codys Lab Someone commented on a different video. Thought I would re- type/post it. I wanted Cody from Cody's lab to DIY a mercury scope with all that mercury he's got. Shouldn't be too hard for him. Neat video. I too would like to see him spin some mercury into a mirrored finish for a telescope!! You can do it Cody! You can do it all nite long!!! We're with you in spirit man!!
Would it have been possible to leave some lengths of the chain still linked together as horizontal rows, then add open links to 'stitch' the rows together into a mail sheet? (Rather than separating all of the links and starting from loose pieces). Now that I have written this, I wonder if there is actually any saving in doing that, since you'd probably need a larger number of cut links to do the joining...
The torch welding is neat and I can see how it'd be preferable to mig. Did you use bale twine for the filler? That would definitely be an economical choice. I'm a big fan of my oxy acetylene setup, there's so much you can do with it.
Have you ever tried using oil for quenches? It would be a lot of oil for something like this but it works much better for blades. I don't remember the chemistry but I was under the impression water will make it much more brittle.
You should keep it moving while it's quenching. Don't drop it in there. It evaporates the water touching it quickly and it forms a gas barrier between the metal and the water so it's no longer being cooled.
woooow CODY! I remember learning about gold plating from one of your video years ago, great to see you still make content, I'm going to have to binge watch your videos for a while
slower cooling leads to a larger average grain size. slow enough you make perlite fast enough martensite, carbon is in the solid solution it ain't going anywhere without a lot of work. larger avg grain size means dislocations can glide further withought obstruction makeing a softer metal. cast iron has so much carbon that its not even part of the lattice anymore and is just jammed in the crystal, makes so mutch tension that the dislocations cant move and thats why cast iron is brittle. grain boundaries are also where cracks and chemicles attack first so there's a lot of single crystal stuff too like jet engine blades made with a super goofy looking casting process.
Fun fact this is called Annealing. Which is a heat treatment process that changes the physical and sometimes also the chemical properties of a material to increase ductility and reduce the hardness to make it more workable. you can put hot material in cat litter to slowly cool if you wish to contine to use the oven.
It's interesting to watch someone else's technique, I usually make a long "string" of 4-in-1 and then build whatever shape I need out of that. almost like knitting.
Hey Cody, I'm really interested in Roman concrete and it's self healing and durability properties. Have you ever experimented with it? Thinking about the process you seem like the best person to test it. Please consider it. Take care.
Ok. Now make it from mail
I can make you an email chain
agreed just send it
Then make mail, from chainmail
Perhaps a chain letter
Plenty of material if ya stop paying student loans.
Codys Lab is the best youtube channel, especially among the makers. I love how he just does whatever he wants, its always informative and fun to watch, and there's never any filler or clickbait. And he's just an awesome person. Thank you Cody for all the great content over the years, I will always look forward to your videos.
I have to admit that I sometimes don't understand half what he's talking about. But for about 10 years I'm enjoying these videos like no other. They leave you with a special feeling behind.
Very True!
couldn't agree more
Now extract the zinc from the acid and put it back on the chain
"Can you take the stain of this shirt and put it on that one? "
@@nobodynoone2500 lol I wouldn’t say shiny good looking zinc that prevents rust is a stain but you do you
That should actually be easier than you think.
All he'd have to do is, neutralize the acid (and that might not even be necessary) then use the resulting liquid as an electro-plating solution.
No need to extract the Zinc first.
Extract the Zinc from my cHiCkEn SoUp 🙃
@@jacefritzler sounded like some kind of a joke to me
This looks like so many hours of work lol. Thanks for letting us torture test it😏
Cody is more about the process, WaterjetChannel is more about the spectacle.. perfect collab! Love it! 😄
This is getting out of hand, now there's 3 of us Cody's.
I really appreciate that you haven't changed how you operate in these videos. Stripping zinc off a chain? No fancy vent hoods or anything just a bucket outside. Really makes me feel like I could do these projects and makes what you teach connect easier to me.
I think youre almost at a problem thats common in DIY and our society at large, we tend to think 'whats the best way to do this?' and the restrict ourselves to doing just that without considering there is probably a much more accesible, less resource intensive and cheaper way of doing something.
The problem is the people who make these videos are usually highly educated in the field and know how to do it safely. Even if it looks like they're doing it in their back yard. Many things aren't explained because it's not entertaining or they do it subconsciously. This video is more on the side of doable though.
It’s people like you that are the problem. “I could do this!” 🙄
I should add, you can do pretty much anything at home that's where most of this stuff was invented but definitely do independent research. Make sure what you're doing is safety, learn how to dispose of chemicals properly, and make sure you have multiple sources outside of just TH-cam videos.
That Mail would rip the mountings out before it failed Structurally. Well Done, Cody.😮😊
Never knew how much I actually needed a Chain-Chainmail blanket , Reduces my anxiety of from constantly thinking people with sword cannons are gonna get me in my sleep and doubles as a therapeutic weighted blanket.
Can't thank you enough Cody, your doing Gods work.
i gotta admit the idea of a chailmail doormat would be kinda awesome for a workshop
Welcoming or terrifying? You decide!
Worlds most durable doormat 💪🏽
i have definitely seen those before. Prbly smaller links though.
@@Broockle yup. including as mud flaps.
I have seen ones that are hard rubber and chain mail. Cleans dirty boots with every step.
"Of COURSE... that zinc coating is gonna HAVE to come off".
Classic Cody.
What do you mean
anyone else irrationally hate zinc in general? like it's even the worst tasting thing ever
@@Beardqt no
@@GaiusCaligula234 ok sorry
@@Beardqt I like Zinc, it's like a weird uncle to the ferrous metals.
When Iron is heated it's grains takes on a variety of crystal structures at different temperatures, if allowed to cool slowly (annealing) the metal reverts back into it's plastic pliable form, when heated and quenched suddenly it locks the iron into what's called face-centered cubic lattice locking all the atoms in place making the metal harder.
Yes, but actually no. It's not getting locked into face-centered structure, you only need that because of its higher solubility for carbon in that structure. You can tell from hardened and tempered steel being magnetic, while the face-centered structure is non-magnetic (see stainless steel with high nickel content).
I need to learn this sacred science...
Haha. It's cool that i've just learned these fancy words recently on university.
@@AdventuresOfKeithius Take some Materials Science course :)
1. Heat steel above certain temperature
2. Steel becomes austenitic (face centered), which has high carbon uptake
3. Quench
4. Iron rapidly reverts to body centered crystal structure which has lower carbon uptake
5. Carbon atoms don't have enough time to diffuse out of the crystals since diffusion is a rate and temperature dependent process
6. Carbon is forced to stay inside of the body centered crystals and creates compressive stresses, which increases hardness
Hollywood: "Sliced through in 1 cut"
Reality: "Hacked and beaten to death by 100 hits over 7 hours"
Cleaning out all Walmarts in the state of chain? Already a great start
The State of Chain is the best place in the USA and you cannot prove otherwise
Imagine being in the same state as Cody and wanting to get some 2/0 chain
“Damn this Walmart is sold out, maybe I’ll try this other one”
“Them too? Damn lemme try another”
10 Walmarts later
“What the fuck, who is buying all this chain”
@sketchy1018 why didn't he try harbor freight? 😮
@@sketchy1018 Its the new toilet paper
I'd be a bit surprised if Cody isn't on a watchlist by now.
This gave me an idea. Copper mail curtains, with a ground line to the curtain rod. Faraday drapes. Faradrapes.
Yes! I live in Detroit.. chain mail curtains will be great for drive bys!
@@scottshawn70and for when the local junkies need some scrap copper for their fix.
@@ishnifusmeadle that's why you electrify it
Fara rape..uh...wait a minute
Ok, but then you gotta do the carpets too so they match
Hey Cody, when you're quenching the material, it's better to move it up and down in the water, because if you just place it in the water bath the immediate liquid around the hot metal will create a bubble of vapor around it which will prevent the water from being as effective as it should quenching the material. This is what many smiths are taught, so if you watch videos of them forging things, this is why they sort of bob the material in the quench bath.
I never knew that but that makes complete sense. Thanks for the advice
Would he pretty dangerous for him to hold onto it considering it was splattering boiling water all over.
I assume it would be hard since theres so much metal in this project
This is far more of an issue for an oil quench than a water quench. Yes, the steam jacket forms in both quenching media, but water vapor is still very heat conductive, and will therefore still cool the metal quickly. The Grossmann H-Value (a measure of quenching intensity) for water without agitation is 1.0, while the same for oil without agitation is 0.25. An oil quench with violent agitation (which is beyond what most smiths will ever do, and probably impossible to even achieve with a workpiece as large as the one Cody was working with here) is around 0.8 to 1.10, which means that the highest cooling rate possible with oil is roughly equivalent to the cooling rate of water with zero agitation. Extrapolating this principle, an oil quench with moderate agitation (which is what most smiths will use), with an H value of 0.4 or so, produces significantly slower cooling when compared to a non-agitated water quench.
Moreover, using water AND moderate agitation produces an H-value of 1.3, while strong agitation has an H-value of 2.0, and violent agitation can get all the way up to 4.0 - all of these options cool the steel far faster than oil ever could, and thus the more you agitate in water, the more likely you are to risk shattering your workpiece.
Yeah blacksmithing is hard.
I'd argue your metallurgy isn't 100% sound but your concepts are right. In short, while carbon molecules are relevant, tempering an annealing has more to do with the alignment of crystals in the metal matrix. When metal is hot, crystals align themselves with each other. When cooled slowly the crystals can form or settle in a random configuration. When metal is cooled quickly, the crystals are all remain aligned making them strong. Cooling in Water can be problematic compared with cooling in oil. But it can be done and without a doubt the additional annealing worked great for chain mail armour.
Great Video.
id like to point out the marvel of insulation here, you have glowing red steel, and right next to it there is unmelted snow. its couple of cm
That must have been so much work! Good job it looks awesome.
Cody's Lab. The channel where you can find pilot mars experiments that help NASA. And medival chain mail all in one place. I love this channel, Cody you've taught me a lot about chemistry and industrialization. And I wanted to say thank you for always making videos about stuff that you like, instead of trying to appease the youtube algorithm. Keep doing what you love
Next video, Cody develops chain mail light enough to send to Mars.
Oh man that looks like the best weighted blanket ever
Need to put a cloth backing on it though for sure, chainmail loves to pinch ya. Most weighted blankets I've had use steel shot. This one might end up a bit too heavy to be safe lol
@@whatbroicanhave50character35 The only weighted blanket youll need for the rest of your life 😅
Chainmail binding is so therapeutic. Like sit in a sofa with a bucket on your left, bucket on your right and just adding bit by bit. It's fun. Better than TV, that's for sure.
Ive seen your channel commenting around for DECADES aserta lol. We are legends
I have zero doubt that Cody could survive in any post apocalypse setting
When I was learning welding they would always say that a correct weld is stronger than the rest of the metal!
Same with woodworking and wood glue
Pretty sure they didn't mean spot-welds..
Again, that weld is high carbon because co2 in air. As long as tempered, strongest part.
Oh, I was ref to the original chain..
@@Dr_Wrong Neither was I. 😊
thank you for not changing what youre doing cody. Youve been teaching me for a decade at this point and im glad youre still doing the same thing
Put some aramid layers on both sides, and you have a nice frag-curtain for dangerous tests.
For when he‘s making explosives… again…😂
@@DryW4t3r Or, you know, distilling stuff like alkali metals. Or precious metals, they both give off lots of fumes that can boom.
Can I ask what aramid is? I know how to google, but I prefer lessons in "plenum. "
Welding with a torch and no gloves, what an old school king
Is this like stick welding just using a torch instead of a welder?
@@michaelroberts1064 Yep, that appeared to be standard oxyacetylene welding. The torch melts the base metal and the rod provides filler. The burning gas produces carbon dioxide that provides some shielding to reduce oxidation. It's a fun process, quiet and calm, but not quite as clean as TIG.
@@dave7038 thanks for the explanation. there's a lot i don't know about tools and how to make things, but i'd really like to learn more, and i appreciate it when others share their knowledge.
If you ever want to do something similar to torch welding but don't have access to a torch and gas bottles, you can do something similar with an AC arc welder if you make a holder for a couple of carbon rods called an arc torch. Generating an arc between the two rods will produce a sort of flame that can heat metal without consuming an electrode or creating a deposit like stick welding. I've done that myself, and while it is less controlled than using oxyacetylene, it is great for doing torch style welding or for heating up metal to red hot. I bent a piece of cast iron using my home made carbon arc torch.
Million years from now scientist could locate your house by detecting all those chemical trace in one location .
Cody’s properties could be declared a superfund site at this point
Even a couple of thousand years from now, Chickenhole Base is going to confuse the SHIT out of some archaeologists.
They will probably conclude it was evidence of aliens which explains most of man's 21st century advancement
"detecting trace amounts of everything but the kitchen sink"
Well, this is pretty much how anthropologists and archeologists identify where the smith's house of a settlement was. The soil samples and residue metals, coal, slag, etc.
Oh this was a collab with the Waterjet Channel too?! Nice! Was that your initiative or theirs? Either way, great to see that things are looking up for you again!
You can also make a ribbon of Euro 4 in 1 by twisting the 2 in 1 chain until it binds and then linking open rings through the top or bottom (whichever side is lacking the rings in the binding pattern.) Could help save time in future endeavors, since you wouldn't have to cut and reweave so many rings.
Not sure what you mean about twisting the chain, but he definitely could have reduced the weaving/welding time if he left 2/3 of the chains intact. (Not that the actual weaving was the time consuming part here.) Instead of opening 50% of the links, he could've only opened 33% of the links, reducing the amount of welding by a third.
@@nikitanugent7165 I think we're talking about the same thing. But yes, weaving is certainly not the rate limiting step here.
would this make the diagonals of the kind of mail he's doing?
@elongated_muskrat_is_my_name No. Instead, it would form the bottom and center of a single ribbon of mail. It's hard to explain in the context of a comment, as it involves some visuals. I might make a video on it sometime.
I used to make chainmaille, but I never thought of using chain to make it.
The aspect ratio of the chain looked perfect for 4 into 1 European, and the welding looked spot on.
Now that you have made chainmaille using comically oversize links, would be awesome to see chainmaille made out of comically tiny links.
Cody is the only creator where I'm happy to see ads
He remarked one time he wouldn't add ads in a relpy to my comment. I wonder how much $ he lost not taking advantage of his early videos?
@@Ydnar1155untill like November this year he had some massive drama with Google not paying him ad money. Could be related
@@Ydnar1155 if i remember correctly he did monetize his channel at some point long ago but youtube seemed to absolutely hate his guts back in those days, constantly demonetizing, age restricting and sometimes even deleting his videos.
at some point, probably during the ad-pocalypse, he just stopped trying to monetize his video probably becose it wasnt worth his time to try to make everything ad friendly just to still get demonetized for no reason.
he might not even have reactivated ads, the ad PG-Shaun saw might be placed there by youtube and not cody, and if thats the case he does not get ad revenue from it, youtube takes it all.
now he makes his own money with sponsors and patreon and thats much better than having to deal with adsense's tomfoolery for an income
What ads?
I meant pre-roll and post-roll ads. When he was demonized by TH-cam that didn't happen
imagine the poor soul who had to make these for a whole army back in the day
Dude was probably just relieved that he didn't need to be IN the army.
On the plus side...you would never really need to make like, thousands at once. Most likely blacksmiths/armoursmiths just made square patches like Cody did in between jobs, keeping themselves busy, and building up a supply to make a chain hauberk or shirt much quicker than if they started from scratch when someone ordered one.
That's what apprentices are for
@@dposcuroPlus chain mail was super expensive, even after plate armor was invented. It would probably be akin to buying a car nowadays. You would be pretty well off selling one as a blacksmith. Most footmen relied on cheaper gambesons, which was much easier to produce and required no smithing.
@@andresvalverde5182 expensive to make but also very recyclable and reusable, which makes it likely to be in a large supply which lowers the cost
Heat treat furnace operator and materials lab tech checking in! the decarburization you're describing is actually happening in your furnace during the high heat stage because of the uncontrolled atmosphere in your furnace, the carbon on the surface of the steel, usually in the first few thousandths of an inch, reacts with Oxygen in the atmosphere and draws carbon out of the steel. The quench you use isn't affecting how much carbon is retained in the material so much since it started decarbing the second it got above 1000 degrees or so.
When you heat treat carbon seel, the resulting hardness isn't a product of losing/retaining carbon in the material, Rather the iron and other carbides in the steel form a different crystal lattice around the carbon in the steel at different temperatures, and the speed at which you cool the material will actually "lock" those structures into place. The slow cooling of an anneal process yields a long, large crystal structure, known as pearlite which results in a more ductile material.
When you quenched the links back into the water from high heat, you aren't locking carbon into the material, rather transforming the grain structure from what's called austenite at that high critical temperature, to what's called Martensite, which is the grain structure of all quenched-and-temper steels after heat treating.
Let's talk Austenite for a second! This is the crystal structure of any carbon steel alloy at its critical temperature. It's the smallest grain size and is also the most hard/brittle, and is often retained in pockets throughout the material in the quench, which causes stresses in the material which causes distortion/cracking.
When you do the temper, you help transform the pockets of retained Austenite into Martensite, thus a more homogeneous grain structure and distribution of carbides and carbon in the iron solution.
If you were to take one of your quench and tempered links and ground into them gradually, I'm sure you will find that they actually get harder and harder as you remove the decarbed material on the surface and made it down to that sweet sweet martensitic goodness underneath!
The shapes of the crystal lattices are base centered cubics, face centered cubics and face centered tetragonal and the amount of iron atoms in each one changes as the material moves from room temp up to high heat and back to room temp either by way of a fast quench or the slow cool.
Thanks for being you and putting in the work to share all of your amazing projects with all of us! And let me know if you'd like to get some of the things you've heard treated under a microscope to see how you did on your quench and temper!
As a material science student, I approve this statement.
Before I ever paint galvanized steel I always swab the surface with a HCL moistened rag for proper paint adhesion. Hardened and high carbon steel rusts slowly. 1005/1020 steel, CRCQ steel & low carbon steel will rust quickly. The chain mail skirt on my suit of armour has flat links probably so the weld joint is over-lapped, heated, & pounded to fuse the joined ends together. Back then there was no oxy-acetylene torch & filler rod to weld links together. I would never have the patience to make chain mail. With that said I commend Cody for doing all the work on this video.
Assistant: and how many boxes of chain would you like sir?
Cody: Yes
Cody is the man from the math text books
It's so fucking awesome to have you back at full strength, man! Love these videos.
thats actually an impressive amount of work for linking chains together
Soo much time and effort I'd imagine
I put anything zinc coated in regular vinegar. Then I dump it in a baking soda water solution to stop the rusting process and the iron is as is. I do the same to remove mill scale on regular steel from the local shop.
Invest in a head camera. I enjoy the 1 handed working but you seem to struggle more than you need to 😊
No. Cody must have the best science and the worst camera work.
@@the_newt_nest😂😅😁
Head movements for camera might cause nausea for the viewers.
@@priyanshugoel3030invest in an gyro
4:01 the term you are looking for is anneal. Annealing the steel is the process of heating, then slow cooling, to make it more malleable and thus easier to work with.
11:00 cavemen used to cook like this before they invented containers that can be used to boil the water directly. they heated rocks in a fire and placed it in thier water to boil it.
when i saw the amount of water compared to the amount of steel i expected it to violently boil for quite a while
You’re by far my favorite TH-cam content creator. Never stop doing what you love and showing it to the world, you’re amazing Cody!!
Nice Iron Curtain, Cody 😂
The symmetrical patterns looks very satisfying. And man, you’ve done a lot of work for a video!
Great video. This brings me back to the og chainmail videos
Unexpected collaboration.
So happy for more CL videos.
I love that last clip "No way Cody!"
@@Tb0n3that’s me haha
I have enjoyed your channel for a long time. Generally i would not feel the need to correct any of your statements but, i feel like this is important with respect to material mechanics. Heating and cooling steel when you heat a steel and allow it cool slowly the process is called annealing. this process is not releasing carbon you are infact changing the crystaline structure from martensite to pearlite. when you heat steel up to orange hot you are not changing the carbon you are creating austenite. when you quench you are locking the austenite into stucture into place. when you temper the steel you are changing the crystalline structure to martensite. the only time you release the carbon is when the steel oxidizes ie the black iron oxide stuff that comes off the steel.
I'd have put one arm of the bolt cutters in a vice with the other arm upward when cutting the links. This would eliminate the unsteadiness of the bolt cutter, reducing the risk of injury.
I once tried to make chain maille from 6ga galvanized wire. Links were about 1.5" and making and cutting the coils quickly proved more effort than it could possibly be worth
this channel is my alltime favourite no matter how i may change i think i’ll allways whatch these videos, thanks for all the great stuff cody! ❤
edit: the chain chainmail looks great!
Crazy how good that looks after the heat treatments. It was all discolored and a little rusty in areas. Pretty cool stuff man.
you should try blacking it by intentionally coating it in a thin layer of rust then boiling it water for a few hours
If you're in an environment where chainmail is a tactical advantage you definitely want to be known as The Black Knight. Notoriety gives you a +2 AC against attacks by weapons from the Ancients like the dreaded AR-15.
@@user-qf6yt3id3wbetter to just make a plate cuirass, its lighter and more protective. Easier to colour too.
3:15 Prolonged heat and letting it cool slowly the iron crystalline structure can grow. The results (after plunging it into cold water), not only harder again but makes it brittle due to the over size crystal structure.
You can just leave the chain in a bucket of vinegar to strip it. Takes a day or 3, and be sure to move the chain arouind a couple times.
Potato patahto, vinegar is just dilute acetic acid. It'll just take a lot longer than hydrochloric.
Every minute was a surprise! Each cut showed way more progress than I expected, all the way to a collab at the end! So cool.
Chain mail screams "I have nothing but time on my hands."
Well, time and many many metal rings
My fiance and i watch you all the time Cody. Your patience and perseverance is amazing and inspiring. We love you! As you always have, never change and always be you! You are the best part of humanity!
Next video: "Making a powered exoskeleton to wear my chainmail"
That's pretty cool! I bet the hardening and tempering really made a difference to usefully tough the mail is at actually stopping stuff breaking it or getting through. Hope you got some oil or anti-rust protectant on it though, looks like some sections are already rusting.
For the love of god, people. If anyone tests chainmail, put padding under it. You never wear chainmail without padding. It is both for comfort, and is also an integral part of the defense.
yeah, but tits under chainmail is a V I B E
What you say makes sense. It is just that historically chain was used over normal clothing in some times and places. I don't know why.
Did you forget where you are?
Silks were used to fret arrow heads where weight considerations forced looser weaves. Still, almost always cotton pads for cooling comfort and shock absorption.
@@johnbennett1465 Probably for monetary reason.
I guess some people could either afford a gambeson, or a chainmail, and had to choose.
I'd go for the chain as well. Sure I might get pinched and bruised, but at least I won't get stabbed or slashed.
Love your smile and the glint in your eyes whenever you're working on a project
Dont let anyone tell you Cody cant weld.
Maybe he can, but all I see here is brazing.
@nobodynoone2500 how so?
If you want the iron not to rust after the zinc stripping you can dip it in some alkaline solution ( litte bit of lye or baking soda in water) and it will prevent some corrosion for a shorter while
Make friends with problem solvers. They complain less and find solutions to problems or answers to questions, instead of sitting there complaining that life isn't fair. Cody's an absolute unit. Great video, as always.
Great to see you and the waterjetchannel still hanging out and making colabs!
Love all the chainmail vids!
So glad you still make videos. Love your videos he had so much fun making them
Nice to see a video that has the same feel as the good ol days😊
I did not see that collab coming. I'm always here for Cody's Chainmail videos!
I missed your chainmail videos
I think the point about the carbon leaving the iron crystals is good, i wouldn't have considered that aspect if you didn't mention it. First thing i was thinking about was the grain size being larger with the slow cooling which makes it more ductile, if you were to quench it the grain size would be smaller (more rigid and brittle) and also depending on the quench it might be a very hard outer skin almost instead of a uniform grain structure. Also.. love you and your videos man
1:07 talk about chain reaction
Fun video Cody !!!
I'm assuming mail made from this chain would be way too heavy to wear. Correct?
Did you decide to quench in water instead of oil just for cost and convenience or is there another reason?
How are you going to keep it from rusting now that the zinc is removed? Do you oil it?
Thanks.
Did home depot call the cops on you when you bought 130lbs of chains, buckets, and gallons of HCL?!
8:27 was the funniest moment. This video truly shows how dedicated and skilled and wildly experimental Cody Really Is
love ur videos only 1 question tho why did u go to walmart for chain why not a hardware store u prob paid 2 or 3 times more then u should have for it would have been cheaper at a hardware store buying in bulk
It was better chain. 🤷♀️
Wal-Mart has better chain than hardware stores? Sounds like BS.
the audacity to say someone like cody is "bs'ing" 😂😂😂
@@Ac3Mustang Not saying that he is, just sounds like it. It's hard for me to believe that Wal-Mart is the best place to buy chain.
Great work, what a huge amount of time spent on a "Just for fun" project!
Like if you want Cody to be an Astronaut!
you have some mad patience, my friend. great vid! and the ballistics vid was excellent as well.
cody slab
You absolute maniac. Your positivity is infectious. Gas welding was also a nice touch. You need a TiG machine my man.
the fbi must almost certainly think you're making a party favor with those boxes of chain
Not the collaboration I was expecting, but definitely the collaboration I needed. Very nice!
Mail means 'Chain' so most people are mistaken when they call it 'chainmail', that's like calling it 'Chain Chain', but yours is actually made from chain so it's probably the first true Chainmail or Chain Chain.
@danward1070 - I think maille is more accurately translated as the french word for "mesh".
It seems like you should be able to knit together strands of chain with open links instead of cutting every other link. In other words, keep lengths of chain with twice as many links as you want per row. Hook links 1 and 3 together with an open ring then connect to links 1 and 3 on the next chain. Continue doing that with pairs of odd links. For adding the next chain you'd be using sets of even links from the original chain and the next chain you're adding. One length of unbroken chain would result in 2 rows of maille and you'd only need one row of open rings for every 3 rows of maille. Less cutting and less welding.
@codys Lab
Someone commented on a different video. Thought I would re- type/post it.
I wanted Cody from Cody's lab to DIY a mercury scope with all that mercury he's got. Shouldn't be too hard for him. Neat video.
I too would like to see him spin some mercury into a mirrored finish for a telescope!!
You can do it Cody! You can do it all nite long!!! We're with you in spirit man!!
Would it have been possible to leave some lengths of the chain still linked together as horizontal rows, then add open links to 'stitch' the rows together into a mail sheet? (Rather than separating all of the links and starting from loose pieces). Now that I have written this, I wonder if there is actually any saving in doing that, since you'd probably need a larger number of cut links to do the joining...
The torch welding is neat and I can see how it'd be preferable to mig. Did you use bale twine for the filler? That would definitely be an economical choice. I'm a big fan of my oxy acetylene setup, there's so much you can do with it.
Ah yeah. Nothing says welcome quite like a rug of chain chainmail. Never change Cody, it's always a delight when you upload.
Cody, your talent, determination, and dedication are truly an inspiration. Keep it up!
It's good to have your videos pop back up in my feed!
Have you ever tried using oil for quenches? It would be a lot of oil for something like this but it works much better for blades. I don't remember the chemistry but I was under the impression water will make it much more brittle.
You should keep it moving while it's quenching. Don't drop it in there. It evaporates the water touching it quickly and it forms a gas barrier between the metal and the water so it's no longer being cooled.
woooow CODY! I remember learning about gold plating from one of your video years ago, great to see you still make content, I'm going to have to binge watch your videos for a while
So satisfying to watch, great idea too. loving your work Cody!
slower cooling leads to a larger average grain size. slow enough you make perlite fast enough martensite, carbon is in the solid solution it ain't going anywhere without a lot of work. larger avg grain size means dislocations can glide further withought obstruction makeing a softer metal. cast iron has so much carbon that its not even part of the lattice anymore and is just jammed in the crystal, makes so mutch tension that the dislocations cant move and thats why cast iron is brittle.
grain boundaries are also where cracks and chemicles attack first so there's a lot of single crystal stuff too like jet engine blades made with a super goofy looking casting process.
Really puts into perspective how much work medieval blacksmiths must’ve had to put on
Fun fact this is called Annealing. Which is a heat treatment process that changes the physical and sometimes also the chemical properties of a material to increase ductility and reduce the hardness to make it more workable. you can put hot material in cat litter to slowly cool if you wish to contine to use the oven.
*@Cody'sLab*
2:22 You should also *oil the chain* to further prevent rust (unless that messes with future "treatments" to the chain?)
It's interesting to watch someone else's technique, I usually make a long "string" of 4-in-1 and then build whatever shape I need out of that. almost like knitting.
Hey Cody, I'm really interested in Roman concrete and it's self healing and durability properties. Have you ever experimented with it? Thinking about the process you seem like the best person to test it. Please consider it. Take care.
You are doing great Cody. Inspirational stuff! You aren't afraid to try big things.