I am an HVAC business owner and do Home Performance upgrades, but I do find your videos great for customers and other technicians can learn from. You are a great teacher and I think a whole video on the various duct options, take-offs and transitions would be great! Only thing I would add is high-flow registers to avoid static pressure.
thank you for checking out our channel, yes, I love the suggestions and ideas, I try to blend general info along with doing more "sales" type of videos. lots more videos coming, stay tuned.. Thanks, Brian.
Most customers don’t want to pay for any calculations. They just want a replacement that matches what’s there. If you start talking duct work cost they whine and say nooooo they old one worked just fine
As someone that must do this themself, at the start of my learning journey thank you. Id gladly hire someone that actually shows up, shows up sober, shows up with at least a measuring tape before giving me a quote. Nope. I asked 2 contractors if they knew what manual D was, they did not. HVAC CONTRACTORS mind you.
This is how I was taught many moons ago and it’s how I still design system. I don’t get why people have to do all the math the Ductulator does it for you
thanks for checking out my video, the biggest mistake I see is contractors sizing ducts by either price or looking for an easy fit.... stay tuned, more videos coming.
Awesome video, The basics helped me understand why I have low volume at one end of my house and not the other. It was added onto and not sized correctly, can't wait to see the next video explaining 2 direction air flow from a supply and return.
Omg someone finally said it .these big open spaces people want makes it hard to add supply nd return into . Running wire , nd dwv is not easy but duct work is just as hard if not harder. Great video liked the part about putting it up on a box, people don’t get it . RETURN is just as important as supply, heck I always make my return equivalent to or greater than supply
48,000 views, wow, thank you... what should I do next ? A2L refrigerant is getting edited now, so what next ? zoning ? Indoor Air Quality ? blower speed set up ??? Thanks, Brian.
Hi, thanks for the great video, very easy to understand. Question for you: I have to move the furnace and air handler to the basement. The original house had two systems one in the attic and one in the basement. The one in the attic needs to be replaced. I will move the unit from the attic to the basement and run trunk and return lines up through the garage then across the attic. The duct needs to go up about 18 feet, turn 90 degrees, then run across the attic to feed the second floor. I have been looking for how to calculate the friction loss of the turns in the trunk and return lines. Can you recommend a source for these calculations? Thanks! Milache.
Have you made the furnace in the middle basics video yet? That’s what I need. Going plenum downdraft, left and right round. Ranch house. 10 takeoffs no complicated turns.
Man, you should start a department in your business where you consult homeowners. I'm no HVAC pro, but I know my system isn't configured right because the has has an 800 sq ft addition and they didn't add new returns or change the AC unit. Every time I get a contractor out they just say, "That oughta be fine." I keep expecting someone to do measurements and calculate airflow, but not a one has yet. I know it's not right, but don't know enough to guide the conversation on the phone and weed out the guys that won't know any better.
I get it, but finding the right contractor is key ( and sometimes not easy ) .. with additions, it's often tough to maintain temperature with the rest of the home, in my area sun rooms or four season rooms built off the back of the home are popular, lots of windows, and has three outside walls, in these cases no matter how much supply and return you have, these rooms lag behind the rest of the home because they either gain or lose temperature faster then the main body of the home , often a separate system, such as a mini split is the answer. in your case I would keep trying to find "your Guy" , explain your concerns, let him know how important the issue is to you ,trust me they want to take care of you and fix your problem, its how they survive. Good Luck, don't give up. Brian
Great vid, lots of great information for newer guys like me. Something I am finding hard to get information on is grills/registers. Do you have any guidance on the terminal end of things?
Yes, great question, so many designer grills and registers on the market and yes, big differences, thanks for the push, I'll do a video soon, stay tuned .
Thanks for the great video. Could you advise how do you plan branches to make sure that you get right amount of airflow from it? For instance with that 6" duct on hard pipe how many elbows are ok to have 110 or 90 cfm out of it? Thanks 🙏 Note: for better exposure i would recommend adding hashtags in the description like #hvac #ductwork #ductworksizing etc.
Lol I'm just a hydronic guy but I have this problem with 6" in my attic to the hottest room in the house, they made two 90 offsets with elbows and the room is always hot, I'm thinking of removing them and piping it in straight.
Maybe this will be a quick answer you can point me in a direction to find an answer / solution. 2 story house in the SE with 2 units in attic. Directly below that the space with the units it could have been enclosed as a 4th bedroom, or open to use as common space. Turned that common space into a media room. Here’s my question; Where the closet would have been (dead middle of wall) it’s an open alcove I built out for the media what nots. On either side are false walls that have were designed to hide ductwork, etc. Would have been there bedroom or not. Both false walls surface area and depth are identical. On the left hand side there shouldn’t have been anything. Opened wall to put in a glass front wine type fridge, and got a little surprise of 3 flexi ducts running down, luckily at the very back of that cavity. In order for the wall to accommodate that fridge I need to push the duct work back maybe 2-2.5”. Considering the minuscule space I need to steal, do you believe it would be ok to pinch the ductwork a little? Let’s say 3” total to be conservative considering I’m using my government education and calculating without removing my shoes. 🤣 Obviously I won’t hold you to any advice you can give. I’ve seen around some bends or areas where they have to snake flex duct it seems like some ducts gets reduced / pinched / folded a lot greater than even 3” I’m referring to. Thanks for the video and thank you in advance brother!
thanks for checking out the video, just to many variables to consider to make even a guess, airflow is important both for your comfort and the performance of your equipment, sometimes its worth the cost to have peace of mind, my suggestion would be have a reputable contractor take a peek. sorry, I know that wasn't the answer you were hoping for, but its the right answer. enjoy the holidays, Brian..
I have never heard that before, and I would disagree for a few reasons, where you live, Arizona compared to Chicago, different loads, design temps completely different. when we look at the smaller homes and the largest homes that we would treat with one system, that rule won't work, residential equipment stop at 2000 CFMs, but can handle a home over 2000 Square feet, and a 1200 Square foot home can be cooled with a two ton system at 800 CFM ( depending on region ) have the best day. Brian
Hi What about 3Ton YORK duct sizing? I started with 22x8 30ft +(\1 flat elbow 22x8) then reducing to 20x8 aprox 10ft then 16x8 another 10ft . Total duct work 57ft 3TON YORK GAS FURNACE + CONDENSER (cooling) Reason I keep 22x8 30ft & not reducing earlier 55ft total length , kind of LONG LINE? Would this be correct sizing? Thank you in advance ☺️
On a 2.5 Ton unit top fed is one return from the bottom of the unit adequate? The airhandler is about 20 inches elevated so that it can be vented through its bottom. Thanks
I have all my current duck work information with drawings and I am looking for someone to design a new system. I’ve been told before the duck work system is undersized. I would love for you to design mine… any thoughts, ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Why can't you tap of an end cap? I never do it, but I've been on many commercial jobs where the print calls for a square to round at the end of a trunk line to a diffuser. Aside from the square to round having a transition down to the round, what's the difference? Why is one allowed but the other isn't?
in a typical residential duct design, we rely on the air filling or pressurizing the entire duct, you could say the air hits the end and turns around, keeping pressure to deliver air to all of the runs taken off the entire light of trunk line... in many commercial designs we are dealing with a higher velocity and pressure. in small duct/high velocity systems like Unico ( we sell )or Spacepak, the placement of supply runs and size of duct are even more important to keep an even flow through all of the supplies..... typically in residential we dont take anything off within the last foot of ductwork. the return side of the system typically won't have the same rules, due to the vacuum effect . hope this helps, thanks for checking out our videos..
Question please 🙏 1ton=350-400cfm for cooling But heating only take 65% than cooling How do I know what duct size good for both heating and cooling since they require different cfm?If duct size good for 400cfm for cooling also good for heating? Why only design cfm for cooling not heating?
My home has equal cooling in all rooms as long as the doors are open. Closing a bedroom door at night is common, but it makes the sleeping room warmer. I want 69 degrees in bedroom at night, but thermostat in living room has to be set at 67 to get the temp of 69 in bedroom. I have a Honeywell thermostat with remote sensors so have some accurate reading. How do I fix this? I have closed down most of the registers in the main rooms and helped a little.
Add return in rooms if possible, if not you can add pass through grills in walls or pass through ducts in the ceiling connecting the bedrooms to the hallway so return air can be pulled through when the door is shut. If there are wood floors instead of carpet you can undercut doors for return but the previous options are preferred.
Hi there I’m wondering if the duct work start off shooting in both directions does that change what size duct I can use to get the cfm wanted? For example I have a 3 ton unit that has a 8x10 trunk going one way and a 8x12 going the other. So can I change to a 16x10 and 8x10 to get my 1200 or is it gonna be different because the main trunk goes two separate ways? Any help would be appreciated!
I am a commercial guy and usually have plans that show the duct size but lately I’ve been doing a lot of systems that I have to size now I have basic ductulator skills how would u gauge the fiction loss for a bigger commercial package unit
I deign to keep the static pressure to .10 Sp all the way through the ducting. Since you use the Ductulator (me to) it’s easy use .10 from the first duct to the last and it works out perfect. When I measure my CFM I’m within +-15% before adjusting my dampers 10% after my adjustment. This will work for cleanrooms, labs and offices. I switched to residential design after being in the commercial world for 30 years and I’m blown away with the lack of knowledge with regards to duct design
I am an HVAC business owner and do Home Performance upgrades, but I do find your videos great for customers and other technicians can learn from. You are a great teacher and I think a whole video on the various duct options, take-offs and transitions would be great! Only thing I would add is high-flow registers to avoid static pressure.
thank you for checking out our channel, yes, I love the suggestions and ideas, I try to blend general info along with doing more "sales" type of videos. lots more videos coming, stay tuned.. Thanks, Brian.
Most customers don’t want to pay for any calculations. They just want a replacement that matches what’s there. If you start talking duct work cost they whine and say nooooo they old one worked just fine
As someone that must do this themself, at the start of my learning journey thank you. Id gladly hire someone that actually shows up, shows up sober, shows up with at least a measuring tape before giving me a quote. Nope. I asked 2 contractors if they knew what manual D was, they did not. HVAC CONTRACTORS mind you.
there are very good HVAC contractors out there, it's sad you've had a bad experience , I hope you find the right contractor, good luck. Brian..
This is how I was taught many moons ago and it’s how I still design system. I don’t get why people have to do all the math the Ductulator does it for you
thanks for checking out my video, the biggest mistake I see is contractors sizing ducts by either price or looking for an easy fit.... stay tuned, more videos coming.
Awesome video, The basics helped me understand why I have low volume at one end of my house and not the other.
It was added onto and not sized correctly, can't wait to see the next video explaining 2 direction air flow from a supply and return.
stay tuned, next part is coming soon..
Part two is out now.
Finally! someone made it so simple! thank you!
Thank you for checking out our videos, lots more on their way.....Brian
Omg someone finally said it .these big open spaces people want makes it hard to add supply nd return into .
Running wire , nd dwv is not easy but duct work is just as hard if not harder.
Great video liked the part about putting it up on a box, people don’t get it . RETURN is just as important as supply, heck I always make my return equivalent to or greater than supply
YES ! and thank you for checking out our videos, more to come...
Perfect helpful video to give guys a starting place.
Thanks
much more on its way.... new A2l refrigerant is coming next. thanks for checking out my videos... Brian,
Great video. Thanks for the insight
thanks for checking it out, more videos coming soon..... Brian
48,000 views, wow, thank you... what should I do next ? A2L refrigerant is getting edited now, so what next ? zoning ? Indoor Air Quality ? blower speed set up ??? Thanks, Brian.
Hi, thanks for the great video, very easy to understand. Question for you: I have to move the furnace and air handler to the basement. The original house had two systems one in the attic and one in the basement. The one in the attic needs to be replaced. I will move the unit from the attic to the basement and run trunk and return lines up through the garage then across the attic. The duct needs to go up about 18 feet, turn 90 degrees, then run across the attic to feed the second floor. I have been looking for how to calculate the friction loss of the turns in the trunk and return lines. Can you recommend a source for these calculations? Thanks! Milache.
Have you made the furnace in the middle basics video yet? That’s what I need. Going plenum downdraft, left and right round. Ranch house. 10 takeoffs no complicated turns.
yes its out about three months now, you can find it under "videos" part two. good luck. Brian
Man, you should start a department in your business where you consult homeowners. I'm no HVAC pro, but I know my system isn't configured right because the has has an 800 sq ft addition and they didn't add new returns or change the AC unit. Every time I get a contractor out they just say, "That oughta be fine." I keep expecting someone to do measurements and calculate airflow, but not a one has yet. I know it's not right, but don't know enough to guide the conversation on the phone and weed out the guys that won't know any better.
I get it, but finding the right contractor is key ( and sometimes not easy ) .. with additions, it's often tough to maintain temperature with the rest of the home, in my area sun rooms or four season rooms built off the back of the home are popular, lots of windows, and has three outside walls, in these cases no matter how much supply and return you have, these rooms lag behind the rest of the home because they either gain or lose temperature faster then the main body of the home , often a separate system, such as a mini split is the answer. in your case I would keep trying to find "your Guy" , explain your concerns, let him know how important the issue is to you ,trust me they want to take care of you and fix your problem, its how they survive. Good Luck, don't give up. Brian
wow very impressive
Awesome teacher(maestro)
thanks for checking out our channel, I'm working on a few new videos, stay tuned. Thanks for the kind words. Brian..
Looking forward on that
Teacher do you have specific institution that give issue certificate after complete HVAC courses??
I love the vids. When is the one with the air handler in the center coming out.
soon, its just been a bit busy here, thank you for checking out the video.
its out now..
@@abledistributors yep. Saw it this morning. Thanks.
Great vid, lots of great information for newer guys like me. Something I am finding hard to get information on is grills/registers. Do you have any guidance on the terminal end of things?
Yes, great question, so many designer grills and registers on the market and yes, big differences, thanks for the push, I'll do a video soon, stay tuned .
Thanks for the great video. Could you advise how do you plan branches to make sure that you get right amount of airflow from it? For instance with that 6" duct on hard pipe how many elbows are ok to have 110 or 90 cfm out of it? Thanks 🙏
Note: for better exposure i would recommend adding hashtags in the description like #hvac #ductwork #ductworksizing etc.
Lol I'm just a hydronic guy but I have this problem with 6" in my attic to the hottest room in the house, they made two 90 offsets with elbows and the room is always hot, I'm thinking of removing them and piping it in straight.
Maybe this will be a quick answer you can point me in a direction to find an answer / solution. 2 story house in the SE with 2 units in attic. Directly below that the space with the units it could have been enclosed as a 4th bedroom, or open to use as common space. Turned that common space into a media room.
Here’s my question;
Where the closet would have been (dead middle of wall) it’s an open alcove I built out for the media what nots. On either side are false walls that have were designed to hide ductwork, etc. Would have been there bedroom or not.
Both false walls surface area and depth are identical. On the left hand side there shouldn’t have been anything. Opened wall to put in a glass front wine type fridge, and got a little surprise of 3 flexi ducts running down, luckily at the very back of that cavity.
In order for the wall to accommodate that fridge I need to push the duct work back maybe 2-2.5”. Considering the minuscule space I need to steal, do you believe it would be ok to pinch the ductwork a little? Let’s say 3” total to be conservative considering I’m using my government education and calculating without removing my shoes. 🤣
Obviously I won’t hold you to any advice you can give. I’ve seen around some bends or areas where they have to snake flex duct it seems like some ducts gets reduced / pinched / folded a lot greater than even 3” I’m referring to.
Thanks for the video and thank you in advance brother!
thanks for checking out the video, just to many variables to consider to make even a guess, airflow is important both for your comfort and the performance of your equipment, sometimes its worth the cost to have peace of mind, my suggestion would be have a reputable contractor take a peek. sorry, I know that wasn't the answer you were hoping for, but its the right answer. enjoy the holidays, Brian..
Still waiting for the next part of 2 direction air flow for supply and return
its out now ..
Quick question. I watched a TH-cam video that says a quick fast rule on residential HVAC that 1cfm per square foot of home. Is that correct?
I have never heard that before, and I would disagree for a few reasons, where you live, Arizona compared to Chicago, different loads, design temps completely different. when we look at the smaller homes and the largest homes that we would treat with one system, that rule won't work, residential equipment stop at 2000 CFMs, but can handle a home over 2000 Square feet, and a 1200 Square foot home can be cooled with a two ton system at 800 CFM ( depending on region ) have the best day. Brian
Where is your video mentioned on coming on zoning / variable volume ducting?
Hi
What about 3Ton YORK duct sizing?
I started with 22x8 30ft +(\1 flat elbow 22x8) then reducing to 20x8 aprox 10ft then 16x8 another 10ft . Total duct work 57ft 3TON YORK GAS FURNACE + CONDENSER (cooling)
Reason I keep 22x8 30ft & not reducing earlier 55ft total length , kind of LONG LINE?
Would this be correct sizing?
Thank you in advance ☺️
On a 2.5 Ton unit top fed is one return from the bottom of the unit adequate? The airhandler is about 20 inches elevated so that it can be vented through its bottom. Thanks
I was tought to size the return 20% larger. This is standard in canada for permit
I have all my current duck work information with drawings and I am looking for someone to design a new system. I’ve been told before the duck work system is undersized. I would love for you to design mine… any thoughts, ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Why can't you tap of an end cap? I never do it, but I've been on many commercial jobs where the print calls for a square to round at the end of a trunk line to a diffuser. Aside from the square to round having a transition down to the round, what's the difference? Why is one allowed but the other isn't?
in a typical residential duct design, we rely on the air filling or pressurizing the entire duct, you could say the air hits the end and turns around, keeping pressure to deliver air to all of the runs taken off the entire light of trunk line... in many commercial designs we are dealing with a higher velocity and pressure. in small duct/high velocity systems like Unico ( we sell )or Spacepak, the placement of supply runs and size of duct are even more important to keep an even flow through all of the supplies..... typically in residential we dont take anything off within the last foot of ductwork. the return side of the system typically won't have the same rules, due to the vacuum effect . hope this helps, thanks for checking out our videos..
Question please 🙏
1ton=350-400cfm for cooling
But heating only take 65% than cooling
How do I know what duct size good for both heating and cooling since they require different cfm?If duct size good for 400cfm for cooling also good for heating? Why only design cfm for cooling not heating?
Where's the center furnace video? My class is looking for it.
coming soon I hope, early November most likely , sorry
its out now....
My home has equal cooling in all rooms as long as the doors are open. Closing a bedroom door at night is common, but it makes the sleeping room warmer.
I want 69 degrees in bedroom at night, but thermostat in living room has to be set at 67 to get the temp of 69 in bedroom. I have a Honeywell thermostat with remote sensors so have some accurate reading. How do I fix this? I have closed down most of the registers in the main rooms and helped a little.
Add return in rooms if possible, if not you can add pass through grills in walls or pass through ducts in the ceiling connecting the bedrooms to the hallway so return air can be pulled through when the door is shut. If there are wood floors instead of carpet you can undercut doors for return but the previous options are preferred.
Hi there I’m wondering if the duct work start off shooting in both directions does that change what size duct I can use to get the cfm wanted? For example I have a 3 ton unit that has a 8x10 trunk going one way and a 8x12 going the other. So can I change to a 16x10 and 8x10 to get my 1200 or is it gonna be different because the main trunk goes two separate ways? Any help would be appreciated!
Part two of this is up on TH-cam now, check it out. Thanks for watching, much more on its way....... Brian.
Sir very nice conservation sir how to calculate duck size in diagram plan lay out sir plz videos up load our group Hanks from Abdul qadeer Pakistan
My ductwork is so wrong 🙈
I am a commercial guy and usually have plans that show the duct size but lately I’ve been doing a lot of systems that I have to size now I have basic ductulator skills how would u gauge the fiction loss for a bigger commercial package unit
I deign to keep the static pressure to .10 Sp all the way through the ducting. Since you use the Ductulator (me to) it’s easy use .10 from the first duct to the last and it works out perfect. When I measure my CFM I’m within +-15% before adjusting my dampers 10% after my adjustment. This will work for cleanrooms, labs and offices. I switched to residential design after being in the commercial world for 30 years and I’m blown away with the lack of knowledge with regards to duct design