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Hi, I am wondering where you are getting your duct sizing from in relation to velocity? Using a Ductulator, a 30x8 at 700fpm (which is the target), is only good for approximately 990 CFM, therefore severely undersized for your 4 Ton Unit. A 24x8 is good for about 800CFM at 700fpm…. Would love some clarification. Thanks

I will be needing to replace a surviving 40 year old R22 system because my HVAC guy says he is not allowed to work on banned equipment anymore. His sales team wants me to hurry up and buy an R410a system before 1/1/25 because the prices on the R454b systems will be at least 25% higher. I am disturbed that he wants me to buy another banned system that he won’t be able to work on. From my research on what to buy I came across some disturbing information. I am pretty sure DuPont is not aware of it yet, but their R454b refrigerant is already on the radar scope in Europe for the forever chemical toxins known as PFAS that it contains. I do have complete confidence they will have a replacement coming before the R454b patent runs out though. It was also interesting to fine that R32 is outside the scope of the new environmental ban in Europe. Just search up R454b and PFAS. This a far too familiar scenario. Maybe some of the equipment manufacturers that really like this new and untried toxic R454b could have made better decisions. It would sure keep me from bearing the burden to make all the good decisions on which equipment to buy.

This is an amazing explanation. Really helpful. Thank you so much

I need to run about 27ft of 3/8 & 3/4 inch from second floor to first through the ceiling . The 3/8 is easy to run and even found a bending spring for that size to make life easier. But have not found a bending spring for the 3/4. Someone suggested I fill it with water or sand and close the ends to run it. Im not sure if that would be ok. I can flush it and dont need to install the actual units till a year after this rough in. Can you give me some suggestions? Thanks

Excellent explanation! I will need to rewatch several times though for it to sink in. But seriously thank you! Because as others have said, this is the best out there to do with static pressure.

Can you do a multi zone?

It would be useful to test a 4 inch deep merv 8

They are super quiet, except in my case I have some squeaking and squawking going on from an apparent vacuum issue. Line goes up into ceiling with a 10 ft horizontal run before it drains. Would like to see a comparison between this and the Combi unit they have. What I see happening if the power goes out, that line continues to drain and overflow that little tray. Mine continues to drip for like an hour before it stops. Just wondering if that’s an issue with the way the Combi is installed instead. Look forward to your response.

I don’t suppose you guys offer a duct design service cheap? Mine is simple. Ranch, crawl, center furnace, left right 5 take offs each side. 1500 sqft 3 ton. I’m looking for round main trunk lines. Easier for me. I’ve learned a bunch, but I’m not looking to find out I screw up something simple. I don’t even need a cad drawing. Plenum size Starter from plenum size Then how often to reduce. Currently have a rusted out system, and I don’t trust it was done right when first done. 5 take offs all on one side no reductions. Long story.

I was most concerned about the coil drop since cleaning the A coil is a huge job. And I would like to share what I have done to measure the coil drop, which is very easy to do. You do not need to drill anything and you do not need to buy the special probe either. Just use the screw hole by taking out a screw. To measure underside of the A coil, I unscrewed one of the easily accessible screws from the triangular A coil cover blocking the underside. To measure the top side of A coil, I unscrewed one of the A coil housing cover screws and measured there. In both cases, I pressed the open end of tubing from the manometer ($35 from Amazon) right against the screw hole tight and read the meter. In my case, I measured 0.16 (top side) and 0.25 (underside) which gives me drop of 0.09 WC. I was afraid my A coil would be clogged up a lot after 26 years of use without cleaning at all but this measurement tells me it is wide open for which I am so happy not having to do the big job of disassembling the whole A coil and cleaning it up and reassembling it. Just for sanity check, I also bought Anemometer ($16) from Amazon and it measured anywhere from 550-800 ft/m air speed out of all the vents which seem very reasonable based on what others measured on brand new system. This sort of confirms that my A coil is pretty clean even after 26 years of use without cleaning at all, which is quite surprising. I did not even replace the filter either. I simply vacuumed the filter every year. I hope I am not dreaming.

What is a good furnace and ac combo? I’ve had a few companies come out and tell me different things. One doesn’t like napoleon the other likes only Armstrong products? They all dislike Bosc? What would you recommend?

Be careful we used a cheap merv 1 and it clogged our system inside the unit with hair, dust, dirt etc. Costs us 170 to get it cleaned we also have pets so get a thicker filter then merv 1 if you have pets etc

My mind is blown. I had no idea and I really thought i was doing the best thing getting the more expensive filters. Im going to upgrade (to the cheaper filters lol) this weekend and I will report back! Thanks for making this educational video for us uninformed homeowners!

I normally get the filtrate 1900 thinking is supposed to help with allergies at home. I recently saw a video where it mentioned the stress it can put on the system and possibly ruin it later on. I’ve been using the filtrate 1900 for 5 years now and so far no problems. I heard about filters that hospitals use and can help with the air flow. My unit is a 2ton. What type of filter would you recommend for my system that wouldn’t put much stress on it? Like what would you recommend the best MERV would be for my system?

Great video. Thanks for the insight

So how does it know when the temp outside gets below whatever setting you choose to kick on the furnace?

Have you ever taken the cover off one of these once it’s mounted? I can’t get that thing off.

Question I've asked on similar videos that hasn't been answered. I previously lived in the NE and had systems with just one filter at the furnace. Now live in the SE with a home on a slab. I have five separate filters in the ceiling in a 2200 SF home. Only the two in the most lived in areas really ever get the least bit dirty. Am I okay using higher rated filters to get things like the pollen we have here out of the air and to keep the return ducts cleaner.

Yep, best explanation out there. You got a like and a subscriber. Great content!

Does the Bosch seer 20 vibrate much at 100%?

Man, you should start a department in your business where you consult homeowners. I'm no HVAC pro, but I know my system isn't configured right because the has has an 800 sq ft addition and they didn't add new returns or change the AC unit. Every time I get a contractor out they just say, "That oughta be fine." I keep expecting someone to do measurements and calculate airflow, but not a one has yet. I know it's not right, but don't know enough to guide the conversation on the phone and weed out the guys that won't know any better.

Can you make a comparison video yellow jacket vs Navac and CPS Black Max ??

Great info. Thank you.

cost to professionally install California?

💯 GREAT INFORMATION! The best thing you can do for your customers is install an oversized media filter. Im a HUGE fan of Aprilaire. Keeps equipment clean and VERY little static drop.

Before drilling holes into your furnace....see if you can unscrew the heat exchanger high limit switch for TESP probe access.

For a return is there a way to use a decent quality filter with these?

3M filtrete 1900 - merv 13, but also twice the media as most merv 8's on the market (1,560 sq. in) so they do not clog up fast, or create static pressure build up any faster then the typical merv 8. Oh, but they do collect smaller particulate matter MUCH better than any merv 8 on the market (including particulates from wildfire smoke) - which equates to cleaner coils, less work for your motor etc, and FAR better overall air quality in your home. It's a no brainer. My residential HVAC heating/cooling system (Maytag) is close to 20 yrs old. Other than changing out a pressure switch yrs ago, not a single issue. I change the 3M 1900 every 4-6 weeks in summer, 8 weeks when snow is on the ground.

Isn’t it preferable to have more of your total external static on supply side for velocity and throw?

Man great video! It all became so clear to me after watching this. Thank you for such a great explanation and keeping it short and simple

Finally! someone made it so simple! thank you!

Great video, question how do you calculate, or where can i get the info when the sp is higher? How less of cfm and temp rise will get?

Wow! I just went to Lowes last night to purchase a new air filter, before turning my central A/C on for the season.... I've actually been buying the 3M Filtrete 1500 regularly, for the past few years! I didnt realize they will make your system "work harder"???

I was tought to size the return 20% larger. This is standard in canada for permit

Is it normal to find water inside the unit after opening the box? And it’s going to be extra charge for the valve?

Great video, you've sold me on the brand and the RX 199 IN. My question is, do I need to order the isolation valves separately? I also want to confirm the connector kit that allows me to hook up to the unit for the annual de-scaling comes with the unit, only in a seperate box, correct? Is there any other device I need to order and have ready for the installer? Thanks again for a pro video, very helpful.

I have a conundrum, I have a 3 ton 16 seer in a 1200sq ft home with 4 inch octopus soft ducts , and a 16x25x1 inch return lol. Hvac installed 3 years ago cant use the good filters because my system gets restricted. But with such a newer system I dont want to use fiberglass and risk the evap lol. At the time of install was told the ducts would be fine with an oversized unit as it would push the air better. Im so screwed cant afford new ducts now.

You got to get the mic off your neck

Question please 🙏 1ton=350-400cfm for cooling But heating only take 65% than cooling How do I know what duct size good for both heating and cooling since they require different cfm?If duct size good for 400cfm for cooling also good for heating? Why only design cfm for cooling not heating?

If you make blower run longer after ac is off it will not be dehumidifying as well it will be putting some of that moisture back into the space that you just removed

I’m pretty sure he likes it… a lot

WELL GET YA MATH RIGHT A IS -.22 + .39 = .17 NOT 61

48,000 views, wow, thank you... what should I do next ? A2L refrigerant is getting edited now, so what next ? zoning ? Indoor Air Quality ? blower speed set up ??? Thanks, Brian.

Have you made the furnace in the middle basics video yet? That’s what I need. Going plenum downdraft, left and right round. Ranch house. 10 takeoffs no complicated turns.

Too much stock in graphic me to see how you wire the unit

My return used a 20x30x1 inch filter for the first floor. This return vent was positioned near the corner of the wall allowing the addition of another identical vent and filter on the adjacent wall. This addition theoretically reduced the static airflow resistance by 50%. What an improvement!

I'm partial to the hog hair filters, which I use most of the year. Supposedly a merv 4 at best. However once the temp hits 90° it's back to the merv1 fiberglass filter.

And what do you do when you have asthma? Room purifiers don't work. Use an expensive filter and the kids can breath. Use a thin filter and the kids have issues?

Well done! Thank you

Perfect helpful video to give guys a starting place. Thanks