Thank you for your effort on this particular video that's a doozy constantly having to go back and grind. I do stuff around the house and I try to get them as perfect as possible. I find stick welding very meditative and love it.
Nice video, I ran alittle 6010 today just to practice and man do I need more lmao. I run 7018 almost always. I was just about ready to pull the trigger and buy an esab rogue 180, and I found a slightly used transpocket 180 stick local. It’s definitely a smooth runnin machine and super quiet.
Are you in the Midwest? I saw a 180 trans pocket for a good price and was debating buying it, only to have it disappear (likely sold). Fronius is about the only company I have never bought (or used) a welder from. I am sure that 180 is a great welder. So hard to beat the size, power output, and I am sure it runs 6010 real good. It’s funny how if you don’t weld with a particular rod or process you can get rusty fast. I have been doing so much stick welding when I did some tig the other day I wasn’t dialed in at all. I know when I start my MiG welding I am going to be terrible, I haven’t done it in a while and I never did a lot of it.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg I’m from Pittsburgh PA , the biggest sales point on the 180 is the fact that I can run 7018 1/8” on 120v with a hit load of extension cords. For the price of $700 with 60 hours of operating time it seemed like a no brainer. I plan on burnin a bunch of 6010 just to knock the rust off. I think I’m gonna focus on that and some tig. I gotta pick my poison and see where I wanna get humbled first lmao
That’s a great deal and well worth it I am sure. The esab I ran 7018s on 110 without any issue (on a 20 amp breaker). Make sure to use at a minimum a #12 or #10 gauge wire extension cord and you will be set. I really need to get a portable stick welder again with 6010 capability. I just hauled my dynasty outside to do a repair video, and it was like carrying a lead filled big shoe box.
Greg, I just recently uncovered an old ac welder called a Dayton. Its been sitting for probably over 30 years. Plugged it in a couple of days ago and seems to work fine. Do you know anything about the brand? The model is a 3z562. Thanks.
So Dayton was a company that resold products under their own name. I am sure that welder is actually a century brand welder, which is owned by Lincoln today (unsure if it was owned by Lincoln when your welder was made). It’s a pretty standard (albeit high amperage) buzz box. Probably A/C only but I am sure it welds decent. I like those old buzz/box big transformer welders, they will pretty much work forever.
Hi Greg, another valuable and fun exercise. I have a problem with my old AC transformer machine, it gets overheated (internal safety shut-off) after running practice beads with ESAB OK 43.32 = E6013/3.2 mm(1/8") at 95A, more or less continuously for say 30 minutes. I will look around for a decent combo machine this week. Furthermore, I am thinking of the Migatronic Rallymig161i. It's a Danish multiprocess designed unit and is relatively affordable here in Europe. Cheers.
I looked up that brand because I have never heard of them. I find other countries welders fascinating because they are often so different than here in the states. We primarily have esab, miller, and Lincoln, along with a few others (typically owned by those 3). I find that other countries have more brands and not only that they also have by far better technology in the welders. For example that welder you mention has power factor correction (via capacitors) which lowers the amperage draw, especially on extension cords. Most welders here don’t have that. Many other countries also have 200+ volts common to outlets which is awesome for welders, vs here very few houses have 240 in the garage. Even the welders themselves often have better circuitry and better overall design.
Really nice video, lots of Tips to learn from. I’m really trying to get better with 6011 but it’s pretty discouraging when the welds look like shit compared to 6013 or 7018 haha. Also the arc length is so sensitive. The rod is so unforgiving.
I will spend some time tonight and shoot a video with 6011 to help you out specifically. Do you run it on ac? Dc? What are you struggling with the most?
@@makingmistakeswithgreg I run it on DC with 1/4” plate steel chunks and I’m having trouble with the spatter. It just always seems so aggressive. Like the spatter is extremely hot and the sparks go all over the place punching holes in my pants, shirts, and even jumping above my hood into my helmet.
Welding panels is by far the hardest because they are often coated with paint/anti rust material, they are super thin, and it’s very difficult to control gaps. I am not a auto body guy but here are some tips to help: 1: no matter what it’s going to be a tough job. Most auto body I have seen involves welding tack welds on random spots until you end up tack welding the whole panel in. There won’t be much of a chance to “run a bead”, it’s more of a tack weld situation. 2: the gap matters. With thin material you don’t want any gap bigger than a hairs width. Overlapping the panels makes the job far easier. 3: the process you use matters. .025 wire in a MiG machine is what I would want to use. It can be run at lower amperage than flux core and deposits a smaller weld. .030 flux core could weld that in, but it will be harder. 4: the welder you use matters. If you have a higher end machine it will probably give better control on the lower end of things. 5: get yourself a copper auto body spoon and a friend. Have the friend hold the spoon on the back of what you want to weld, weld it, and pull the spoon off. The weld won’t stick to the copper and it will help prevent blown holes. This could be a life saver for your situation. Beyond that it really comes down to having patience and dealing with frustration. I don’t do auto body because it sucks. If you care about putting decent welds down auto body will humble you lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg thanks Greg, that's what I've been trying to do. Keep having fires, dripping black goo sticking all over my gloves, migraines from the fumes. Rrrrr. horrible. I hate autobody!
You’re not the only one that hates it lol. My introduction to auto body was trying to stick weld in shock towers with 1/16th diameter stick rods. I got the job done and was probably the most frustrated/mad I have ever been in my life. Paper thin and rusty exhaust is a close second. I have even joked about auto body: the worst welders make the best auto body men. They don’t care about what their welds look like and they can’t run a decent bead. Perfect for auto body lol 😂
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Always learn something from your videos. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for your effort on this particular video that's a doozy constantly having to go back and grind. I do stuff around the house and I try to get them as perfect as possible. I find stick welding very meditative and love it.
Thanks for the comment 😀. Stick welding definitely is meditative, especially when things are going well. Sticking a rod breaks that though lol.
Nice video, I ran alittle 6010 today just to practice and man do I need more lmao. I run 7018 almost always. I was just about ready to pull the trigger and buy an esab rogue 180, and I found a slightly used transpocket 180 stick local. It’s definitely a smooth runnin machine and super quiet.
Are you in the Midwest? I saw a 180 trans pocket for a good price and was debating buying it, only to have it disappear (likely sold). Fronius is about the only company I have never bought (or used) a welder from. I am sure that 180 is a great welder. So hard to beat the size, power output, and I am sure it runs 6010 real good.
It’s funny how if you don’t weld with a particular rod or process you can get rusty fast. I have been doing so much stick welding when I did some tig the other day I wasn’t dialed in at all. I know when I start my MiG welding I am going to be terrible, I haven’t done it in a while and I never did a lot of it.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg I’m from Pittsburgh PA , the biggest sales point on the 180 is the fact that I can run 7018 1/8” on 120v with a hit load of extension cords. For the price of $700 with 60 hours of operating time it seemed like a no brainer. I plan on burnin a bunch of 6010 just to knock the rust off. I think I’m gonna focus on that and some tig. I gotta pick my poison and see where I wanna get humbled first lmao
That’s a great deal and well worth it I am sure. The esab I ran 7018s on 110 without any issue (on a 20 amp breaker). Make sure to use at a minimum a #12 or #10 gauge wire extension cord and you will be set. I really need to get a portable stick welder again with 6010 capability. I just hauled my dynasty outside to do a repair video, and it was like carrying a lead filled big shoe box.
Greg, I just recently uncovered an old ac welder called a Dayton. Its been sitting for probably over 30 years. Plugged it in a couple of days ago and seems to work fine. Do you know anything about the brand? The model is a 3z562. Thanks.
So Dayton was a company that resold products under their own name. I am sure that welder is actually a century brand welder, which is owned by Lincoln today (unsure if it was owned by Lincoln when your welder was made). It’s a pretty standard (albeit high amperage) buzz box. Probably A/C only but I am sure it welds decent. I like those old buzz/box big transformer welders, they will pretty much work forever.
Hi Greg, another valuable and fun exercise. I have a problem with my old AC transformer machine, it gets overheated (internal safety shut-off) after running practice beads with ESAB OK 43.32 = E6013/3.2 mm(1/8") at 95A, more or less continuously for say 30 minutes. I will look around for a decent combo machine this week. Furthermore, I am thinking of the Migatronic Rallymig161i. It's a Danish multiprocess designed unit and is relatively affordable here in Europe. Cheers.
I looked up that brand because I have never heard of them. I find other countries welders fascinating because they are often so different than here in the states. We primarily have esab, miller, and Lincoln, along with a few others (typically owned by those 3). I find that other countries have more brands and not only that they also have by far better technology in the welders. For example that welder you mention has power factor correction (via capacitors) which lowers the amperage draw, especially on extension cords. Most welders here don’t have that. Many other countries also have 200+ volts common to outlets which is awesome for welders, vs here very few houses have 240 in the garage. Even the welders themselves often have better circuitry and better overall design.
Hi Greg, I wish I could by an ESAB machine, but that has to come later. Cheers
Really nice video, lots of Tips to learn from. I’m really trying to get better with 6011 but it’s pretty discouraging when the welds look like shit compared to 6013 or 7018 haha. Also the arc length is so sensitive. The rod is so unforgiving.
I will spend some time tonight and shoot a video with 6011 to help you out specifically. Do you run it on ac? Dc? What are you struggling with the most?
@@makingmistakeswithgreg I run it on DC with 1/4” plate steel chunks and I’m having trouble with the spatter. It just always seems so aggressive. Like the spatter is extremely hot and the sparks go all over the place punching holes in my pants, shirts, and even jumping above my hood into my helmet.
nice job in this problem I would do stick-tig and fill that hole but that just me
The old Texas tig lol. Definitely a option in a pinch.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg I am shocked that you know that old timmer showed me that
how do I weld the floor panel of my van? Nothing's working, just blow holes and create more problems. By far the most difficult welding.
Welding panels is by far the hardest because they are often coated with paint/anti rust material, they are super thin, and it’s very difficult to control gaps. I am not a auto body guy but here are some tips to help:
1: no matter what it’s going to be a tough job. Most auto body I have seen involves welding tack welds on random spots until you end up tack welding the whole panel in. There won’t be much of a chance to “run a bead”, it’s more of a tack weld situation.
2: the gap matters. With thin material you don’t want any gap bigger than a hairs width. Overlapping the panels makes the job far easier.
3: the process you use matters. .025 wire in a MiG machine is what I would want to use. It can be run at lower amperage than flux core and deposits a smaller weld. .030 flux core could weld that in, but it will be harder.
4: the welder you use matters. If you have a higher end machine it will probably give better control on the lower end of things.
5: get yourself a copper auto body spoon and a friend. Have the friend hold the spoon on the back of what you want to weld, weld it, and pull the spoon off. The weld won’t stick to the copper and it will help prevent blown holes. This could be a life saver for your situation.
Beyond that it really comes down to having patience and dealing with frustration. I don’t do auto body because it sucks. If you care about putting decent welds down auto body will humble you lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg thanks Greg, that's what I've been trying to do. Keep having fires, dripping black goo sticking all over my gloves, migraines from the fumes. Rrrrr. horrible. I hate autobody!
You’re not the only one that hates it lol. My introduction to auto body was trying to stick weld in shock towers with 1/16th diameter stick rods. I got the job done and was probably the most frustrated/mad I have ever been in my life. Paper thin and rusty exhaust is a close second. I have even joked about auto body: the worst welders make the best auto body men. They don’t care about what their welds look like and they can’t run a decent bead. Perfect for auto body lol 😂