If you're gonna run a brushless motor, metal gears are definitely a better option. I've seen others eat through the stock plastic gears pretty quickly, so either keep replacing the plastic ones or use the metal ones so they last longer. Thanks for the video
No problem man, the plastic gears will work if you don't drive it a lot but those who have beat theirs up know how long those gears last. Metal is the way to go for sure.
Thanks for the videos man. They've been a huge help. I can only find metal diffs on Ali for the AE86. Any chance you know if they fit the 1899? If not, do you know where I can get a metal diff that fits the 1899?
No problem. Thanks for reminding me, I forgot to add the link to the Metal Diff and Gears in the description of the video. The gearbox on all the LDRC 1/18 versions is the same size so far, the AE86 just has a smaller chassis. The one in the video I installed in my 1803 NSX said it was for the AE86 as well, many are labelled like that but some other sellers that sell multiple parts say it fits all versions so you should be good with the 1899. I noticed the Diff sits a millimeter or two more to the motor side since it's not perfectly centered in the gearbox because it's a cheaply designed gearbox, found that out when I installed it and I will cover all of the that in the next video I will drop in a few days.
You don't always want a locked diff a nice tight diff act's like an LSD and is better for smaller tracks and switch backs but, a locked diff can work better for long sweepers.
True and that's usually easy to setup on high grade rc drift cars and diffs but this cheap rc car doesn't give you a lot of room for customizing it like that. The old plastic diff that comes with it is a solid piece so it's locked basically and this metal "upgrade" is limited in allowing you to adjust from unlocked to locked, the screw can come loose and fall out, it's not a good design because this is a cheap drift car not a top shelf one like you may be used to working with.
I agree. and I like the way the tension can be adjusted through the diff cup like 1/10 versions. I want to give one a try I suspect after a break in period it could come up awesome and I think a drill will speed that up
@@AirToGroundRCFPV Makes sense it would loosen up over time the screw isn't on a bearing. You might be able to find a small enough thrust bearing if there's space in the cup.
@@thirtythreeeyes8624 I wish, there is no space. The screw end was sticking out one side just 1mm and it was causing the dogbone to bind up. There's no room for anything with this design it sucks.
I know I mention that at about 2:20 in the video. I don't know how good it is so I used my own lock tight but I would have much rather used a lock nut if I was able to but there is no room for one.
I think explaining to not put in the ball bearings to help it stay locked made this mod a lot more clearer for me. Thanks man.
Yea no need for the ball bearings if you are gonna lock it anyway. glad I could help you out my friend.
I thought that the moment I saw this comment! How did it work out not putting them in?
@@darrentinonzii340 They stay locked. I guess the ball bearings space it out just enough to slip.
I also used my own lock tight on the small screw.
@@darrentinonzii340 So far so good. As long as the locktite holds up it's working out they way I wanted.
If you're gonna run a brushless motor, metal gears are definitely a better option. I've seen others eat through the stock plastic gears pretty quickly, so either keep replacing the plastic ones or use the metal ones so they last longer. Thanks for the video
No problem man, the plastic gears will work if you don't drive it a lot but those who have beat theirs up know how long those gears last. Metal is the way to go for sure.
@@AirToGroundRCFPV when can I get the metal gears?
@@kairyu7825 I have links in the description of the video to the gears and diff
Thanks for the videos man. They've been a huge help. I can only find metal diffs on Ali for the AE86. Any chance you know if they fit the 1899? If not, do you know where I can get a metal diff that fits the 1899?
No problem. Thanks for reminding me, I forgot to add the link to the Metal Diff and Gears in the description of the video. The gearbox on all the LDRC 1/18 versions is the same size so far, the AE86 just has a smaller chassis. The one in the video I installed in my 1803 NSX said it was for the AE86 as well, many are labelled like that but some other sellers that sell multiple parts say it fits all versions so you should be good with the 1899. I noticed the Diff sits a millimeter or two more to the motor side since it's not perfectly centered in the gearbox because it's a cheaply designed gearbox, found that out when I installed it and I will cover all of the that in the next video I will drop in a few days.
You don't always want a locked diff a nice tight diff act's like an LSD and is better for smaller tracks and switch backs but, a locked diff can work better for long sweepers.
True and that's usually easy to setup on high grade rc drift cars and diffs but this cheap rc car doesn't give you a lot of room for customizing it like that. The old plastic diff that comes with it is a solid piece so it's locked basically and this metal "upgrade" is limited in allowing you to adjust from unlocked to locked, the screw can come loose and fall out, it's not a good design because this is a cheap drift car not a top shelf one like you may be used to working with.
I agree. and I like the way the tension can be adjusted through the diff cup like 1/10 versions.
I want to give one a try I suspect after a break in period it could come up awesome and I think a drill will speed that up
@@AirToGroundRCFPV Makes sense it would loosen up over time the screw isn't on a bearing. You might be able to find a small enough thrust bearing if there's space in the cup.
@@thirtythreeeyes8624 I wish, there is no space. The screw end was sticking out one side just 1mm and it was causing the dogbone to bind up. There's no room for anything with this design it sucks.
That's why you have that red tube, its red locktight for the diff screw bud ......
I know I mention that at about 2:20 in the video. I don't know how good it is so I used my own lock tight but I would have much rather used a lock nut if I was able to but there is no room for one.
Great video,the little screw doest hold it sucks
Thanks man and yea I hate that design it blows. Did you try the red Loctite that came with it?
My gears went after about 8 batteries, its a definite needed swap imo
Yea that's the problem with plastic gears, they just don't have as long of a life as metal ones will.