I'm trying to think if I've ever come across a ceramic tile that needs sealing on the back. If they are like a fired earth tile ,the glaze needs sealing on the face. Any particular tile you have in mind?
Thanks for another great video. I'm away to start my first big tiling project this week and will be following your tutorials as I go. What adhesive bed thickness do you recommend under XPS backer board on 18mm ply sub floor? I was going to go for 6mm trowel but im unsure. Thanks again.
Awesome, Glad the videos have been helpful mate! 6mm will be fine, It's totally optional if you want to stick and screw. But going for both is never a bad thing mate, Will be nice and solid!
Great video thanks. The underfloor heating I’m having clips into a uncoupling mat. So how would you suggest the best way to tile over that, so as to make sure no damage to cables? The floor is level already, as fitted new joists, so don’t really want to add self leveller as it’ll bring it up too much. Thanks
Thanks mate, Yeah any floor prep really needs to be done before the matting anyway. But with that system you are just good to flat side over the matt as you go first, and then spread as normal. No self levelling required. That's the beauty of the wires in the matting, it's a nice system. Hope that helps mate!
Thanks! I have a question regarding cheaper alternative to microcement. Is there a cheaper alternative to get Bauhaus floor finish with self leveling compound. The area is 120m2 and there are tiles on the floor today. I just want to pore upon the existing tiles. Thanks in advance
Hey, I'm guessing this is to create a micro cement finish with self levelling compound? I mean you can for sure I guess. I know a few people that have left self levelling down on their floors for months while waiting for tiles e.t.c. You could probably seal it for a finish. The only thing is, It may crack a bit depending on the substrate and expansion. Over 120m2 you'd need some expansion joints. it may be best to just do a tester and see how it looks and holds up. But I have never done self levelling as a finished floor before, But it could well work!
Nice, Well done mate! Sounds like you're doing the right thing taking your time to get it right! I've had many of years of practice. Best of luck with the rest of it! 🍻
@@thebespokebloke thanks! Watched a lot of your videos before. Great content for a diyer like me! Any advice for putting 600x600 10mm porcelain on walls? I'm worried they will slip down when installing
@@gxtwo1 Awesome, Glad to hear mate! Have to checked out my video on them yet? It should give you everything you need for installing them correctly. You would basically cut your bottom row in first and work up th-cam.com/video/m7geX9qmE7w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=oZ_FSzF7i00nlHXe
Hi mate, wondering which grit velcro polishing pad u would use on a grinder to tidy up envelope cuts? I only have a regular grinder aswell and some sites say only suitable for variable speed, my heads baffled 😂
Haha, I think they would suggest variable speed to cover themselves if the grinder is to aggressive. But I've used the Bihui ones with my non variable grinder and they are pretty good and cheap. 4 grades for under £20. If you've got a decent rubbing block that will do a good enough job to. Hope that helps mate 🍻
@thebespokebloke brilliant I seen the bihu one's but wasn't sure how good/bad they'd be, I'll give them a try, thanks for replying mate much appreciated 👍🏼👍🏼
Hey, There is so many different brands with different max thickness. Some are 15mm some are 50mm+. So just check the particular brand on that one, and the same go's with set time. You can get rapid, where you can tile after an hour or standard sets which can be from 6-24 hours dry time. I wouldn't recommend a rappid for first timers as you need to be very quick with how you work. Kerakoll Level flex is a great product that does 3 different set times depending on what you are after. Hope that helps!
So I’ve got to tile 600 x 300mm porcelain tiles on top of 18mm tongue and groove floorboards in our bathroom. I am planning to use 6mm Knauf Aquapanel with tile adhesive and screws as a base. Any other suggestions?
Hey, You should be pretty good as long as its solid. I'm guessing that's chipboard tongue and groove (same as this videos substrate) You could go with a Backerboard instead of a cement board. It's a lot nicer to work with and is a better product for tiles generally with how they bond to it plus you get insulation qualities as a bonus. Cement board is perfectly fine though and always does the job. If the floor feels pretty solid then all good. If it has some bounce, You may want to add an uncoupling matt for belt and braces. Hope that helps.
@ they are old school floorboard planks about 18mm thick by 120mm wide like you find in older houses. Taking them up and replacing with chipboard would be a lot of work. So I want to lay something on top of them before the tiles.
@@RB-xg2vz Ok that's fine, it's a pretty normal scenario. My recommended process would be.. Screw 12mm backerboard to the planks (with correct screws and washers) That will give you a good substrate. Check for level, Self level to flatten if you need to, If there is movement apply an uncoupling membrane over the top.
Great Tips ...💪🙏
Your workmanship is so Neat & clean
Awesome! Thanks mate Glad you liked it!
Your tips have helped me tile my bathroom, and the boss (wife) is happy with the outcome🤙🇦🇺
Haha love that mate! If we keep them happy then life is easy.. . So glad to be of service 🍻
Another masterclass in tile preparation and application, thanks again 😊
Awesome, Thanks mate glad you liked it!
Is there a video on how to cut tiles at a 45 degree angle (9o), or how to accurately determine the angles, and the same for skirting boards?
You should find everything you need in this video mate.. Anything else just ask th-cam.com/video/eP17EFPWdZk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=BPPuKnkS_pmK7h7-
@@thebespokebloke thanks, I'm not a ceramicist, but I plan to learn, to venture into those waters,
@ Awesome, Feel welcome to pick my brain with any help you need mate! They'll be a new video out on wet rooms in an hour or so to!
Brilliant! So many excellent, detailed tips one after another!
Great! Glad you liked it mate, I tried to get as much in without making it to confusing!
Really enjoyed the whole breakdown of everything on this one Alek.
Keep em coming!
Awesome, I tried to make it a bit more in depth without being to over complicated. But all the fundamentals on there 🍻
This is the best step by step guide I've seen! Thank you my friend! 🧡
Awesome, Thanks for the kind words mate! Glad it's helpful and happy tiling!
Hey mate, any chance you could talk about when ceramic tiles would need "sealing" at the back?
I'm trying to think if I've ever come across a ceramic tile that needs sealing on the back. If they are like a fired earth tile ,the glaze needs sealing on the face. Any particular tile you have in mind?
Thanks for another great video. I'm away to start my first big tiling project this week and will be following your tutorials as I go. What adhesive bed thickness do you recommend under XPS backer board on 18mm ply sub floor? I was going to go for 6mm trowel but im unsure. Thanks again.
Awesome, Glad the videos have been helpful mate! 6mm will be fine, It's totally optional if you want to stick and screw. But going for both is never a bad thing mate, Will be nice and solid!
@@thebespokebloke Thanks for the reply. Went for stick and screw, everything seems solid. Onto the floor tiles next.
@@TheJORDAN871000 Awesome, Let us know if you've got any questions mate.
Great video thanks. The underfloor heating I’m having clips into a uncoupling mat. So how would you suggest the best way to tile over that, so as to make sure no damage to cables? The floor is level already, as fitted new joists, so don’t really want to add self leveller as it’ll bring it up too much. Thanks
Thanks mate, Yeah any floor prep really needs to be done before the matting anyway. But with that system you are just good to flat side over the matt as you go first, and then spread as normal. No self levelling required. That's the beauty of the wires in the matting, it's a nice system. Hope that helps mate!
@ so cover with adhesive using flat side of trowel. Does this need to dry first or can I then use the notched side straight away and lay?
@@mattsav1329 Straight away mate, you are just making sure the grooves in the matting are filled with adhesiv.
Thanks! I have a question regarding cheaper alternative to microcement. Is there a cheaper alternative to get Bauhaus floor finish with self leveling compound. The area is 120m2 and there are tiles on the floor today. I just want to pore upon the existing tiles. Thanks in advance
Hey, I'm guessing this is to create a micro cement finish with self levelling compound? I mean you can for sure I guess. I know a few people that have left self levelling down on their floors for months while waiting for tiles e.t.c. You could probably seal it for a finish. The only thing is, It may crack a bit depending on the substrate and expansion. Over 120m2 you'd need some expansion joints. it may be best to just do a tester and see how it looks and holds up. But I have never done self levelling as a finished floor before, But it could well work!
@@thebespokebloke Thank you!
Great video! Looking forward to more
Thanks mate, Glad you liked it!
Some more great tips here 👍🏼
Awesome, Glad you liked it!
Tiled half my bathroom floor today. Using keraquick so need to do it 2 tiles (600×600) at a time. You make it look so easy! Great video!
Nice, Well done mate! Sounds like you're doing the right thing taking your time to get it right! I've had many of years of practice. Best of luck with the rest of it! 🍻
@@thebespokebloke thanks! Watched a lot of your videos before. Great content for a diyer like me! Any advice for putting 600x600 10mm porcelain on walls? I'm worried they will slip down when installing
@@gxtwo1 Awesome, Glad to hear mate! Have to checked out my video on them yet? It should give you everything you need for installing them correctly. You would basically cut your bottom row in first and work up th-cam.com/video/m7geX9qmE7w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=oZ_FSzF7i00nlHXe
Other than a Sigma, would you recommend any other cutter? Dont mind spending a bit, but it’s literally for my own bathroom, that’s it. Thanks
How big are your tiles mate? You may be able to pick up a cheap second hand Rubi cutter like a TS-60 (if they are 600)
@ 600x600 porcelain
Hi mate, wondering which grit velcro polishing pad u would use on a grinder to tidy up envelope cuts? I only have a regular grinder aswell and some sites say only suitable for variable speed, my heads baffled 😂
Haha, I think they would suggest variable speed to cover themselves if the grinder is to aggressive. But I've used the Bihui ones with my non variable grinder and they are pretty good and cheap. 4 grades for under £20. If you've got a decent rubbing block that will do a good enough job to. Hope that helps mate 🍻
@thebespokebloke brilliant I seen the bihu one's but wasn't sure how good/bad they'd be, I'll give them a try, thanks for replying mate much appreciated 👍🏼👍🏼
is there a maximum thickness you can go with a self levelling floor, and what is the usual drying time before you can move on to the next level ?
Hey, There is so many different brands with different max thickness. Some are 15mm some are 50mm+. So just check the particular brand on that one, and the same go's with set time. You can get rapid, where you can tile after an hour or standard sets which can be from 6-24 hours dry time. I wouldn't recommend a rappid for first timers as you need to be very quick with how you work. Kerakoll Level flex is a great product that does 3 different set times depending on what you are after. Hope that helps!
@@thebespokebloke ok, thanks
So I’ve got to tile 600 x 300mm porcelain tiles on top of 18mm tongue and groove floorboards in our bathroom. I am planning to use 6mm Knauf Aquapanel with tile adhesive and screws as a base. Any other suggestions?
Hey, You should be pretty good as long as its solid. I'm guessing that's chipboard tongue and groove (same as this videos substrate) You could go with a Backerboard instead of a cement board. It's a lot nicer to work with and is a better product for tiles generally with how they bond to it plus you get insulation qualities as a bonus. Cement board is perfectly fine though and always does the job. If the floor feels pretty solid then all good. If it has some bounce, You may want to add an uncoupling matt for belt and braces. Hope that helps.
@ they are old school floorboard planks about 18mm thick by 120mm wide like you find in older houses. Taking them up and replacing with chipboard would be a lot of work. So I want to lay something on top of them before the tiles.
@@RB-xg2vz Ok that's fine, it's a pretty normal scenario. My recommended process would be.. Screw 12mm backerboard to the planks (with correct screws and washers) That will give you a good substrate. Check for level, Self level to flatten if you need to, If there is movement apply an uncoupling membrane over the top.
👏
This guy shows everything, even his plumber's crack!
😂😂