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My really really really small level is buried in my toolbox somewhere 😂

Awesome, Glad you liked it and found it helpful!

Well it all depends on the adhesive, In that one I used a rapid set. So by the time you've done your last course, Most of the floor would have set. So an hour to 2 hours normally they are fine to walk on. You can put the toilet back in, then either grout up to it, or take it back out to Grout under it. Hope that helps

Thanks mate!

Thank you very much, Yeah there's a good few tips in there! Enjoy

Yeah, The bathroom designers would generally ask for it to be layed thin side facing, Which I also agree looks better!

Personally I'm not a big fan off wash boys. They put to much water into the joint imo. I've owned a few throughout my time and they've all ended up in skips lol. But yeah, much prefer a decent sponge these days, and I'm probably a bit quicker with a sponge.

@@thebespokebloke fair enough, I've noticed last time I used it, there was quite a lot of water, seems like I was unable to drain sponge float enough on them rollers

@@ivanpuskaric6851 Yeah I think it depends on the sponge as well. I used to use the Genesis ones, and they just held a lot of water. Where as with say a normal Ardex sponge, You can really get the water out

Thanks man!

Haha thanks!

Yeah, It's going to look stunning once compete!

Yes, You need to make sure you have enough of a fall for water to move off

Anything but Ceilings lol

Thank you very much!

Thanks mate, Just sealed plaster, Check this vid for waterproofing solutions th-cam.com/video/_uIiMC7CeD8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-PG_zTAqeSoDlL9J

It's just purely how to do a really quick mitre.. I'd also say that's pretty good on the set square for a freehand mitre 👌

@@thebespokebloketwo cut like that won’t look nice when they’re butted up though, it’s a nice trip on how to set a 45 but it’s not very accurate on such small trim, flooring or skirting it might work better.

@@Jarv263 It really depends on what you're doing.. Ironically if you take mitering around a Window for example, If it isn't flat and level the whole way around (which for the average Joe would be the case) .. Perfect 45 deg mitres wouldn't line up great anyway. But like I say its just how to cut a quick mitre on the fly mate 👌

If you have the square, why not just mark the 45° line with that instead of using the trim in diffeeent positions to make the line

@@teewithey5879 It's not for me ha, It's a tip for someone that wants to quickly mark a mitre without a square lol

Awesome! Thanks a lot and congratulations on passing the course! Anything you want to pick my brain with, Don't hesitate to ask mate!

@@thebespokebloke Cheers mate I really do appreciate it as I think I am gonna some help on somethings 😂 a bit of practice and hopefully I'll be fine but keep up the good work

Hey, Well normally you'd tend to remove everything and start again. There may have been a reason for them to leave the tiles (like we're they forming a part of some structure) But whichever way if they are stuck down, then it'll be fine to go over the top of them. But yes generally you'd remove anything old and start fresh. Hope that helps!

I don't get it?

Awesome! Try and get your joints to set out in a cross off of your drain for the best look! (So joint running through front and side centres) They are 2mm mate. Nice choice on the new tools, You won't be disappointed! Best of luck with it!

Thanks, Yeah the pain is worth the satisfaction 😂

😂 Who would have thought I'd say I'm glad I'm onto doing marble atm 😂

@@thebespokebloke 😂 if I ever get asked to do a ceiling... I'll be wearing one of those suits from breaking bad 😂👍

@@leighdurrant9203 lol You'll be better prepared than me 😂

@@thebespokebloke 🤣

Thanks mate!

Hey, At around 7 mins It shows marking a tile to the bath, by flipping it over (it's the same technique for every cut) Or you can measure the distance with a tape measure, keeping it in line and allowing for a joint around the tile. Once you have the mark, your cutter will do the rest once set to 45degs. Regards different orientation.. Yeah the set out (centre) will be different, It's explained in a comment here somewhere. Hope that helps

@@captainbenfield Thankyou. I think I get it, but will have to try it out to make sure.

Ah that's chipboard on the back of the Niche.. Prior to it having 6mm Backerboard screwed to it

Hey, The walls are Marmox Backerboard here

btw, love the content, you are one of the best creators i have found on this platform with solid editing and information, giving enough without it seeming redundant and hard to watch.

Firstly thanks for the kind words, It helps me keep motivated to make content for you guys! Ideally you would have either Backerboard or uncoupling matting, even a flex self level. You should be fine, It's a small floor, probably not going to get to much movement or cracking over time. In the old days (going back 15 years) it would just be tile on concrete as that's all there was, We would never be spect'd to lay an uncoupling matting on big building sites etc, , and the floors were fine over time. So going forward I would use something if you can, It's there for longevity and protection over time. But I think you'll be absolutely fine with yours. Plus you have plenty of joints to absorb movement.

@@thebespokebloke tysm! i did lay down poly membrane for my pergo waterproof laminate flooring throughout the main areas of my house because that was in the instructions. idk why i didn't think tile would benefit from some form of uncoupling membrane as well. haha but thank you the bathroom is tiny so im relieved on your response.

Hey, Yeah all 360 lasers to my knowledge have a break in the beam, Where the casing surrounds the laser. Unless there is loads of breaks then you should be fine, It's normal. Hope that helps

@@thebespokebloke Thanks very much for your reply. Shortly after I messaged you I read in their FAQs that gaps are normal : )

😂

@@thebespokebloke Thank you for laughing! I did for a second! Great job, I’m researching the best way to level-quick a 200sq ft room and came upon your video. It made me chuckle! 🤭 Keep up the great work and have a great rest of your week! Cheers from Virginia Beach! 🏝️

@@justlooking4771 Awesome, I have a full guide on my channel you can check out for tips! Thanks, Take care

@@thebespokebloke Thank you so much!! 😊😊😊

Thanks mate! Glad you liked it

Hey, Yeah you have a little grout joint there, Normally by the nature of the tile shape, You will get a natural joint against trim even if you aren't creating your own one. You can also CT1 or seal that trim edge before setting the tile, For extra assurance if you needed it.

Thanks mate, Much appreciated! Yeah that was a good few days of hard work packed into an easy 10 minutes! Ha. I wear kneepads in the Winter in my trousers, But in the Summer I generally perform an awkward squat to stay off my knees, ha. Nice, The shower ceiling video is nearly done, I've just been playing with a slightly different on camera style, To make it a bit more exciting, than just watching me struggle placing tiles on the ceiling haha. But I can make a longer length to that one as well, If needed. But hopefully should be done for the weekend!

@@thebespokebloke keep up the good work, im a plumber getting into tiling as im bored and want to expand my skill set. Its very much appreciated having channels like yourself for tips and guidance when i dont have other ways to get good info.👍

Awesome, Yeah it's a good one to get into to expand your skills and do full bathroom refurbs yourself. I'll keep the tips coming, Thanks mate!

You're welcome, If you put "telescopic support rod" into Amazon. You should get a few that come up. Hope that helps!

Thanks! Yeah they are very popular these days, Especially with all the different patterns and colours 👌

Thanks mate!

You're welcome, Glad you liked it! You could and some people do, But for that exact reason you touched on.. Backerboard is a good bond to keep the strength in the self Leveling. Where as (although unlikely to cause massive issues ) plastic could cause a bit of cracking were the bond wouldn't be as good. So using Backerboard it's basically guaranteeing no issues and keeping a solid base. Not to mention, You can even use it for when you need expansion.

Fair, You can buy a separate case though, I'm just kind of used it now

Thanks mate!

Awesome, Perfect timing! Around 1.2 metres (which is normally half height of a room) is always a good starting point. Then really after that, It depends on you height for reaching things and ease of use e.t.c. Then after that it's good to take into account the tiles..It's nice to work a full tile off the bottom of the niche (if it works out fine every else) if possible as it visually looks better than a cut. The one is this video was about 1.35 I think. Normally when the niche is being made though we oversize it, and shrink it to the tiles, as it's a lot easier to add backerboard to it to reduce the size to fit the tile, if that makes sense. So for example if you had tiles that were 60cm and you wanted your niche at 1.2M finish height, So roughly 2 tiles to the floor from the niche..2x tiles plus a 2mm spacer would be around 1.22m. But I'd actually make the niche lower at about 1.18 off finish floor height, That gives 2cm ish wiggle room, and allows the trim to be installed like in this video (as you have to overlap it by a tiles width). Bit long winded but I hope that makes some kind of sense, ha. But yes somewhere around 1.2 give or take is a good standard height.

Thanks so much for the kind words! And it's good to know you like that style. It's always hard to find the best way of getting the information out. You're welcome, Glad you're enjoying the videos 👌

It's more natural if your used to traditional tile cutters. Professionals generally use Rubi cutters throughout time, Which are a push towards the measuring bar setup.

ei, não tenho certeza de quais lojas de azulejos você tem por aí, mas imagino que elas devem estar disponíveis on-line para você

Noted, I'll put it on the list, ha

Hey mate great! If they are Ceramic tiles like the ones in the video.. Bal Micromax (it's more forgiving with ceramics) and if they are Porcelain Tiles.. Kerakol Fugabella (As you'll get a better joint, as its a but more rapid) Hope that helps!

Hey, this one is a Bihui B-Magic Diamond Cutting Blade. Also the Rubi TCR Superpro Dry Cut Turbo Diamond Blade (Red) is very good. Hope that helps