Hello. I love you. I’m 78, and gone back to my childhood buy setting up a ‘Train Set’. I bought a Hornby 00 gauge basic set with the Flying Scotsman. I quickly found I needed more but because of the sheer expense I looked for second hand tracks. I bought a large amount of track for £40 which would have been the cost of new Hornby track sections I would have needed to complete the basic layout. I have loads of track now, a lot in need of TLC which is no problem. But I have now greatly extended my layout. I used the spare dining table in the spare room, set up a 6’ x 8’ board on top and laid out my track. I have a double loop starting/ ending at a level crossing. And have spur loops running off the inner loop. ( I have plans to build an elevated section running over the crossing, a large bridge). At the crossing I have fitted the control track and the same as your example, and found the same power loss problem. I’ve been scratching my head for ages, my multimeter is complaining of over use. Being a novice I managed to cross the current causing the control box to shut down and reset. ( Didn’t know it did that and wondered why it powered back up after a few seconds). Now I have seen your video it’s fallen into place and I can’t do what I was thinking of doing, solder the wiring to the track. Thanks for this video, it’s really helped me out. Sorry for this unnecessarily long winded post.
@@Calvertfilmthis came as a standard part in the spirit of the north hornby train set back in the day with a class 47 virgin and a class 142 rail bus, great advice and a great way to expand without breaking the bank just be aware that using multiple older locomotives can draw too much current for the little controller
Excellent advice. Just what I’ve been looking for. You have answered many evenings of wonder how I am to overcome my dead zone issues. I’m smart, but electrical isn’t my forte and so having sampled lots of red wine. I’ve finally happened upon the perfect video which will now make my plan work. Thank you for sharing. What is obvious to some is total mystery to others and it’s stuff like this which makes it possible for the likes of me to do something I’ve always wanted to. Build a railway to run my life times collection of loco and stock, on. Full steam ahead!!!
I found this video extremely useful. The process was explained very clearly and slowly. I am sure that I can set up my tracks easily now. Thank you so much.
Thank you so much for this video. Might be common sense for some seasoned train enthusiasts, but was very useful to me, and probably saved me a couple of bob too! Cheers
Thanks, a very simple clear explanation. i have a complex DCC layout, but I also have some old DC locos I need to run once in a while on exactly the type of track shown on your video, and to be truthful, forgot how to wire DC! Thanks!
Excellent demo thanks. I just wish there was a similar gadget for the n gauge layout I'm building. It seems I have to buy another controller to achieve the same effect.
As a follow up and with a bit more detail, I have two lines going in the same direction but if I wanted the train to get back onto the outside track could I simply just add another point to the right if your set up with the jumper wires beyond the point? I assume I would need two controllers to operate two trains? Thank you Charlie
Im having problems with my link wire , the outer one im having to lift up by hand to make the loco go around and, as soon as i put it flat down it stops . I dont think the connecters are touching the track so as soon as lift it up it goes . i may try connecting it to another part of the track see if that helps.
You could try bending it slightly (be careful not to break it). Or try another link wire or, as you say, section of track. I think your diagnosis is correct.
Hello Dave I've got two L shaped tracks if I put loco on both track I cant isolate one from the other, the point set up is the same as yours ,using one controller
Hi. Just watched this video. I have the same controller. Can I ask. The 2 nuts that are below the red knob, can I connect a bus wire to these instead of using the power link that slots in track. Many thanks
Excellent video. I've got a question though about trying to connect 2 loops together if the original 2 track loop is a 'Folded Loop'. When I draw a line around a track plan on paper it seems to show that + meets - and I don't know how to get round it to create a cross-over ? Do you know how to get round this problem ? Kindest regards, Rick the Bulldog
It sounds as though you are designing in a "reverse loop", which does cause + to meet - current and that cannt be allowed to happen. It won't work and is dangerous. . This CAN be gor round, but is far too complex to describe here. Google "Reverse loop" will point you to solutions.
I know this vid is a tad old, but im thinking on getting some, since hornby ruled out their hmdcc line of decoders i can just power all the track and run engines with only my phone, atleast i think thats how it will work, pls correct me if im in the wrong
This is an analogue setup. I guess the link wire would still operate DCC but normally the signal needs to be strong or you get strange effects, for example I had a DCC loco suddenly run backwards. So dropper wires are the usual method but I'm no DCC expert. Perhaps someone else can comment? Or check some forums. Or try it - at least it's cheap. Hope this helps.
Very clear explanation, just want to confirm, if I someone mis-connected the +/- on the link wire it won't fry the controller right? Like u said it will shut down and restart in 10 sec?
Hello, if i cut of the wire from the clips and soldier the two wire ends to both tracks will it work , if it does would i be able to use old/spare lengths of wire instead of buying the hornby clips set?
Yes. The ability to solder can save a few unnecessary pounds and neatly soldered wires are much less obtrusive, especially if they can be fed below the baeeboard, almost completely out of sight.
So I think my link wire got stuck. I can't get it out the link wire plug in and my engines don't move unless u unplug the plug in on the track that has the controller
@@olivercard7016 I can't think of anything offhand but I can't guarantee either. This is straightforward analogue (DC) track. If it was a digital (DCC) setup then the whole thing would be different and it is generally recommended not to use DC engines with DCC track and controllers as DCC can cause damage to the DC engines. But DCC trains on a DC track is fine. This setup here is DC track, so you can run anything on it - but the DCC engines will run as if DC, and without DCC functions. The same as if they were DC. Hope that makes sense.
Calvertfilm brilliant thank you very much. I don’t know how much you’d know about this, I know it runs the hornby range but do you know if that specific transformer and equipment would work with the bachmann Thomas range?
+Alex Duncan The plastic fishplates are necessary if using two controllers in case they are set in different directions, otherwise they would short each other out. Modern controllers have cut-outs for safety. To fit plastic fishplates, it is the same way as the metal ones supplied - you just pull the metal ones off with some pointy pliers, and then slide the plastic ones on by hand (they are easy). Hope that helps.
I haven't used digital much, so I do not have any direct experience of how to use link wires on digital I'm afraid. This was on an analogue circuit as mentioned in the video description, so sorry I can't be of more help.
R 602 Hornby Power Connecting Clips it says in the catalogue are analogue - hence why you might be having issues. I'm not sure what the equivalent digital solution would be.
Hi Matty. I have put two links into this video for you. The first one will show how this train was made, plus an early test layout. A second link gives ideas for other sci-fi trains. Also if you search 'Clash at North Ridge' on my channel you'll find the videos relating to this project. Enjoy.
the problem with this is you have to two tracks meaning both lines go the same direction, when you could run two trains on one track in the same direction. The whole idea of having two tracks is so one line can go one way and the other line goes the other direction >>>
Please read the video description. I can in fact run opposite directions with a single controller if I wish. I just reverse the link wire. But of course the trains cannot then use the points. Remember (as per the description) this set up is for a single analogue controller. Hope that helps.
It does but both will move at the same time under control from the single controller. If the wires are reversed. one moves one direction, whilst the other goes the opposite way.
This is true. DC trains do not like DCC even though some makes claim channel 0 on DCC is for analogue use. But any DCC loco will dun on a DC track without the digital functions of course but it will run safely without burning out.
Alex Paulsen I’ve just learned to solder and it’s quite satisfying. You can hide the joints under weathering and ballasting so it doesn’t look unsightly.
I rang Hornby up and they said if you use plastic fishplates between the two points a large locomotive going over them will complete the circuit once the front wheels reach the second track and will short as your using two power controllers and with the loco having metal wheels basically it's getting two sets of power so how do you get round this
This is not a problem when both controllers are powering in the same direction (which of course you need as the loco goes over the point - so to have the controllers going opposite would make no sense anyway in operation). If both controllers are going opposite ways and the short will occur and the circuit cut-out will operate. Not a danger as this is what the cut-out is for. Just reverse one controller, give it a few seconds to re-set, and things will be operational again. So making an operational mistake is not an issue anyway. This will happen with any loco as its 'wheel set' covers both side of the plastic fishplates, because all wheels are picking up, so it would even happen on a tiny shunter, not just big locos. So all is well.
Cheers not a train guy but got Xmas day setting up my sons duel controller set up
Great help thanks!!
Hello. I love you. I’m 78, and gone back to my childhood buy setting up a ‘Train Set’. I bought a Hornby 00 gauge basic set with the Flying Scotsman. I quickly found I needed more but because of the sheer expense I looked for second hand tracks. I bought a large amount of track for £40 which would have been the cost of new Hornby track sections I would have needed to complete the basic layout. I have loads of track now, a lot in need of TLC which is no problem. But I have now greatly extended my layout. I used the spare dining table in the spare room, set up a 6’ x 8’ board on top and laid out my track. I have a double loop starting/ ending at a level crossing. And have spur loops running off the inner loop. ( I have plans to build an elevated section running over the crossing, a large bridge). At the crossing I have fitted the control track and the same as your example, and found the same power loss problem. I’ve been scratching my head for ages, my multimeter is complaining of over use. Being a novice I managed to cross the current causing the control box to shut down and reset. ( Didn’t know it did that and wondered why it powered back up after a few seconds). Now I have seen your video it’s fallen into place and I can’t do what I was thinking of doing, solder the wiring to the track. Thanks for this video, it’s really helped me out. Sorry for this unnecessarily long winded post.
Glad it was of help. Good luck with the layout.
Excellent explanation for a great idea using one controller with the link wire to overcome shorting out on the points. Thanks so much👍
Glad it was of use.
@@Calvertfilmthis came as a standard part in the spirit of the north hornby train set back in the day with a class 47 virgin and a class 142 rail bus, great advice and a great way to expand without breaking the bank just be aware that using multiple older locomotives can draw too much current for the little controller
@@kanehood3478 Thanks good tip there.
Excellent advice. Just what I’ve been looking for. You have answered many evenings of wonder how I am to overcome my dead zone issues. I’m smart, but electrical isn’t my forte and so having sampled lots of red wine. I’ve finally happened upon the perfect video which will now make my plan work. Thank you for sharing. What is obvious to some is total mystery to others and it’s stuff like this which makes it possible for the likes of me to do something I’ve always wanted to. Build a railway to run my life times collection of loco and stock, on. Full steam ahead!!!
Hi Chris. Thanks for your comments. People use things different ways but this system works and I have employed it on many layouts. Cheers, Laurie.
At last I have found a simple and uncomplicated video on these. thank you.
I found this video extremely useful. The process was explained very clearly and slowly. I am sure that I can set up my tracks easily now. Thank you so much.
Thanks for your comment.
Thank you so much for this video. Might be common sense for some seasoned train enthusiasts, but was very useful to me, and probably saved me a couple of bob too! Cheers
Thanks for your comment. Cheers.
Thank you very much for that information.
Very instructive and very much needed for an amateur like me in the subject.
I think you have solved my dead length of track issue.
Thank you so much for this video its taught me a lot.
Excellent video just what I needed. Many thanks.
Thank you! This is pure gold for a novice.
Glad it helped you thanks for the comment.
A very clever idea! Makes it look so easy! Sure gives good performance from one controller! Keep up the great work!
excellent info just what i was looking for thank you!
Thanks, a very simple clear explanation. i have a complex DCC layout, but I also have some old DC locos I need to run once in a while on exactly the type of track shown on your video, and to be truthful, forgot how to wire DC! Thanks!
+Dwight Crisman Glad it was of use :-)
Awesome Idea for a quick plug and play Laurie! Thanks for sharing Cheers RT
Thank you very much. Very useful.
Very simple extremely helpful, thanks
You're welcome.
Excellent demo thanks. I just wish there was a similar gadget for the n gauge layout I'm building. It seems I have to buy another controller to achieve the same effect.
Must admit, I do not know of an N gauge solution.
Omg tyty. Ur vidio is awesome. 😍
This might explain why I had the fire. What if I had another train on the other live, how would I power it without shorting it?
Do you mean on the other line at the same time? They both would be ok, and travel the same direction.
As a follow up and with a bit more detail, I have two lines going in the same direction but if I wanted the train to get back onto the outside track could I simply just add another point to the right if your set up with the jumper wires beyond the point?
I assume I would need two controllers to operate two trains?
Thank you
Charlie
Hi .... Do you use 1 or 2 isolators inbetween 2 turnouts?
Thank you very very much, Honour to you
Im having problems with my link wire , the outer one im having to lift up by hand to make the loco go around and, as soon as i put it flat down it stops . I dont think the connecters are touching the track so as soon as lift it up it goes . i may try connecting it to another part of the track see if that helps.
You could try bending it slightly (be careful not to break it). Or try another link wire or, as you say, section of track. I think your diagnosis is correct.
Hello Dave I've got two L shaped tracks if I put loco on both track I cant isolate one from the other, the point set up is the same as yours ,using one controller
Not sure, maybe someone else might comment?
Hi. Just watched this video. I have the same controller. Can I ask. The 2 nuts that are below the red knob, can I connect a bus wire to these instead of using the power link that slots in track. Many thanks
I don't see why not.
Excellent video. I've got a question though about trying to connect 2 loops together if the original 2 track loop is a 'Folded Loop'. When I draw a line around a track plan on paper it seems to show that + meets - and I don't know how to get round it to create a cross-over ? Do you know how to get round this problem ? Kindest regards, Rick the Bulldog
I don't Rick. Maybe someone else can answer your question?
It sounds as though you are designing in a "reverse loop", which does cause + to meet - current and that cannt be allowed to happen. It won't work and is dangerous. . This CAN be gor round, but is far too complex to describe here. Google "Reverse loop" will point you to solutions.
Thanks this video was really helpful
Thank you. I nearly connected my boy's track the wrong way around.
I know this vid is a tad old, but im thinking on getting some, since hornby ruled out their hmdcc line of decoders i can just power all the track and run engines with only my phone, atleast i think thats how it will work, pls correct me if im in the wrong
This is an analogue setup. I guess the link wire would still operate DCC but normally the signal needs to be strong or you get strange effects, for example I had a DCC loco suddenly run backwards. So dropper wires are the usual method but I'm no DCC expert. Perhaps someone else can comment? Or check some forums. Or try it - at least it's cheap. Hope this helps.
Very helpful, thanks! Are these link wires compatible with other tracks besides the Hornby ones? I have tracks from Piko. Thank you.
Yes they are.
Very clear explanation, just want to confirm, if I someone mis-connected the +/- on the link wire it won't fry the controller right? Like u said it will shut down and restart in 10 sec?
There should be two isolating fish plates between the two points, with feeds going to the toe of each point.
This idea on the video does work fine for analogue.
Would this work with dcc if you just wanted to power the inner and outer tracks without the points?
For DCC it is all different. All of the track is live all of the time and the DCC signal tells the train when to move.
Hello, if i cut of the wire from the clips and soldier the two wire ends to both tracks will it work , if it does would i be able to use old/spare lengths of wire instead of buying the hornby clips set?
Yes. The ability to solder can save a few unnecessary pounds and neatly soldered wires are much less obtrusive, especially if they can be fed below the baeeboard, almost completely out of sight.
So I think my link wire got stuck. I can't get it out the link wire plug in and my engines don't move unless u unplug the plug in on the track that has the controller
Sounds as if it is shorted due to it being stuck out but hard to say without seeing.
@@Calvertfilm I fixed it I just got scared and diddnt want to pull it out hard
Would Bachmann models be compatible to that track using that specific power equipment?
Yes they would. This is for any analogue engine.
Thank you Calvertfilm
Ohh and could there be anything that wouldn't work or could be risky to use on this track with that power pack.
@@olivercard7016 I can't think of anything offhand but I can't guarantee either. This is straightforward analogue (DC) track. If it was a digital (DCC) setup then the whole thing would be different and it is generally recommended not to use DC engines with DCC track and controllers as DCC can cause damage to the DC engines. But DCC trains on a DC track is fine. This setup here is DC track, so you can run anything on it - but the DCC engines will run as if DC, and without DCC functions. The same as if they were DC. Hope that makes sense.
Calvertfilm brilliant thank you very much.
I don’t know how much you’d know about this, I know it runs the hornby range but do you know if that specific transformer and equipment would work with the bachmann Thomas range?
@@olivercard7016 With analogue they should all run with each other, whatever the make.
What if I only ha e one link wire and one controller will it still work
That's what I have here. One controller, and one link wire - they come in pairs.
@@Calvertfilm OK thanks
Can you use multiple links, like if you have an awkward set up of points?
You could I guess but be careful to have them connected the same way, otherwise it will cause a short and nothing will run.
@@Calvertfilm thanks. The wires the same way or the points you mean?
@@greengreen4251 Wires :-)
Why do you need plastic fishplates when using 2 controller? Can you show how to fit them? Is it dangerous not to use them? Thanks..
+Alex Duncan The plastic fishplates are necessary if using two controllers in case they are set in different directions, otherwise they would short each other out. Modern controllers have cut-outs for safety.
To fit plastic fishplates, it is the same way as the metal ones supplied - you just pull the metal ones off with some pointy pliers, and then slide the plastic ones on by hand (they are easy).
Hope that helps.
+Calvertfilm hi I'm waiting for a pack coming so I will give it a go, thanks..
I've got a digital layout and when everytime I connect link wire it's starts to short circuit
I haven't used digital much, so I do not have any direct experience of how to use link wires on digital I'm afraid. This was on an analogue circuit as mentioned in the video description, so sorry I can't be of more help.
R 602 Hornby Power Connecting Clips it says in the catalogue are analogue - hence why you might be having issues.
I'm not sure what the equivalent digital solution would be.
I insulted my fish plates now they are mad at me, what can I do
Great video and very helpful :)
Just wondering if you could do a review on that train it looks awesome please lol
Thanks Matty :)
Hi Matty. I have put two links into this video for you. The first one will show how this train was made, plus an early test layout. A second link gives ideas for other sci-fi trains.
Also if you search 'Clash at North Ridge' on my channel you'll find the videos relating to this project. Enjoy.
Power should / must be before the points
the problem with this is you have to two tracks meaning both lines go the same direction, when you could run two trains on one track in the same direction. The whole idea of having two tracks is so one line can go one way and the other line goes the other direction >>>
Please read the video description.
I can in fact run opposite directions with a single controller if I wish. I just reverse the link wire. But of course the trains cannot then use the points. Remember (as per the description) this set up is for a single analogue controller. Hope that helps.
If you have DCC will you need this to still power 2 loops.
Great
Does that mean you can run two trains on both tracks
It does but both will move at the same time under control from the single controller. If the wires are reversed. one moves one direction, whilst the other goes the opposite way.
Calvertfilm ohh brilliant I be using the newer dc controller which should be ok many thanks for your reply
I want to ask one question , did DCC work at normal train
Rahul Srivastava DCC works perfectly fine on a DC loop, NEVER put DC trains on a DCC loop, it wil, burn out the motor
This is true. DC trains do not like DCC even though some makes claim channel 0 on DCC is for analogue use. But any DCC loco will dun on a DC track without the digital functions of course but it will run safely without burning out.
Did people forget how to solder and DIY everything like the good old days?
Alex Paulsen
I’ve just learned to solder and it’s quite satisfying. You can hide the joints under weathering and ballasting so it doesn’t look unsightly.
Alex Pauls
I rang Hornby up and they said if you use plastic fishplates between the two points a large locomotive going over them will complete the circuit once the front wheels reach the second track and will short as your using two power controllers and with the loco having metal wheels basically it's getting two sets of power so how do you get round this
This is not a problem when both controllers are powering in the same direction (which of course you need as the loco goes over the point - so to have the controllers going opposite would make no sense anyway in operation).
If both controllers are going opposite ways and the short will occur and the circuit cut-out will operate. Not a danger as this is what the cut-out is for. Just reverse one controller, give it a few seconds to re-set, and things will be operational again. So making an operational mistake is not an issue anyway.
This will happen with any loco as its 'wheel set' covers both side of the plastic fishplates, because all wheels are picking up, so it would even happen on a tiny shunter, not just big locos.
So all is well.
Good, i am like...
better solution is to drill small holes either side of both sets of rails and Feed wires between then and solder to the rails sides
it still doesn’t work
Hard to know without seeing the full set up you have.
ps If I knew how to do it I would send a drawing for you, how ever I am not computer literate.
I love listening to accents. Where are you from?
+Robert Denton UK
+Robert Denton Essex :-)
That's not an accent, it's English!