How to convert a Car Alternator into a FULL BLDC Motor with Hall Sensors and Magnets (with VESC)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 เม.ย. 2021
- A bit longer video than usual, but I wanted to show you the learning curve and the mistakes I made that you can avoid. I got "very lucky" by having a defective VESC the first time.
-Austiwawa's channel: / austiwawa
-Alternator video: • Building an Alternator...
-Chris workshop's channel: / titou016
-Alternator video: • Transformation alterna...
Alternator specs: 14V 55Amps ISKRA came out of a car from 1995
Magnets: 10x10x40mm N42 Grade 15kg of pulling force (the higher the grade is better)
Hall sensors: SS41F BIPOLAR Hall sensors
VESC Tool: vesc-project.com
Hall sensor placement article: mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/...
-Music by Twins Beats:
/ @twinsbeats
Meditation (feat. Alan Watts) • TwinsBeats - Meditatio...
-Art of silence by @Uniq • Art of Silence - Drama...
Channel: / @uniq5724 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Well done. Giving you a thumb up.
I will point out a couple of things, though. A donut magnet in place of the rotor winding, with the "claw" pole pieces retained, is very simple and will produce less cogging than bar magnets. The only problem is magnets of that type and size are expensive and dangerous to work with. A 3D printed rotor with bar magnets is possibly a bit less efficient and more labor intensive but cheaper.
Hall sensors blowing is caused by the controller. For a DIY controller you can add a resistor and capacitor for protection, and maybe a diode. I use commercially made controllers, mostly Kelly pure sine wave controllers because unlike Curtis controllers, they are user programmable, like your VESC unit, but much, much cheaper.
A spin test without a load is of limited value. It only proves that the motor will turn. Connect the motor to a quantifiable load, then compare output mechanical power to input electrical power, to measure your efficiency and as a tool for tweaking the firmware.
A lot of guys who are only interested in producing content, are hooking ebike controllers or drone controllers or homebrew controllers with only three MOSFET devices as finals, and a battery to the field windings, and calling it a BLDC motor conversion, which is of course a big fat lie. Congratulations on turning an alternator into a real BLDC motor. And as a practical device goes, it is really stupid to not go with permanent magnets and Hall sensors for commutation, anyway.
Looking forward to seeing your load test, and installation in a working project.
What an awesome channel to stumble upon, subscribed!!
Nice work mate loved it!!
Thanks man!
Proud of you buddy. Create your reality. All is good!
OOOOOOOOH YEAH!!
NEW UPLOAD!!!!
Nice Work Amigo 100% original BLDC Neodinium
Well, i loved the entire video, the rotor build process and the axle milling
I think that this PM alternator would be nice to see into a dirt bike
Yes! This was the video I was looking for!
Well done!
Oh, put the motor on a boat!
Thanks! I will keep it as a spare at the moment for the car alternator go kart, just in case.
great project, congratulations. I recommend that you also install a 10k thermistor inside the motor to check motor temperatures
Thanks! I considered installing an NTC or PTC in the stator when I was wiring to the VESC because I saw one pin dedicated for temperature.
interesante tu trabajo, congratulations!!!. soy ingeniero electromecanico desde el año 93. gracias por el video.
Muchas gracias!!
great job
Joder qué acentazo español! Grande!
Great work, you can please measure the rms voltage produced in a single phase of this modified alternator at 3000 rpm without load, or any rpm that you can test. Thanks.
nice mod is that part printed from pla? how it holds dont you think it would fail strip or crack from torque load if you put it like on a bike or cart? also from heat?
Great build. Do you have test results on a table, ie, volts, current and rpm? I want to know the expected torque if I build with similar parts so that I can design a gear reduction for my application. Also, interested in the power draw at 25%,50%,75% and 100%. Keep up the great work
I😅😅i
hi awesome project well done .one minor detail if you swap the hex head bolt on the drive sprocket for a grub screw it might help to reduce the vibration
Hello friend can you show me how to connect to the controller as esc and battery thank you
Excellent video friend I would like to see a test that is not in basic but moving something and how many rpm, maximum voltage and maximum amperage
Very nice s
Bro 🎉🎉🎉
Hello
Do you have a 3d print file of the pla rotor you used in this project?
Could you just share?
That 3d printed rotor held? What material did you use?
It's holding at the moment with no load tests, I'm keeping it as a spare just in case the Car alternator go kart motor fails. Material is PETG, 70% infill, 0.2mm layer height, took about ∼17 hours to print.
Do you know if that ESC uese a Half H bridge or a Full H bridge?
Hello, Hall sensors need to be located somehow relative to the windings? Is it enough just to have an angle between them?
Yes, you need to locate them depending the hall angle you want to use (120º/60º) and also depends of the number of slots (windings) and pole pairs. Here’s a useful blog to know how to locate them: mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/2011/08/hall-effect-sensor-placement-for.html?m=1
This is great! - just a small point - the audio levels between some of your narration and the music is different. You could try to pass the audio channel through an Audio Normaliser or compressor/expander - if you look at the audio waveform in your audio editor you will see the variation.
Just a general question from a novice. How do you separate +ve and -ve from the Alternator coil, As there are three AC terminals coming out of the Alternator coil? To generate AC current and run other devices from Alternator you have to have +ve and -ve poles when you remove brush and stator coil where were you getting your -ve because all three poles on Alternator coils are (3 phase) +ve
The alternator is converted to run as a bldc motor, this particular one is wired in star, so you have 4 leads coming out (one for each phase (3) and the "star" connection hidden in the stator), the original rotor was replaced with a custom 3d printed rotor with embedded magnets so to run it as a 3 phase generator you only need to rotate the output axle where the sprocket is and it will output 3 phase AC.
Feel free to ask if you have more questions!
Привет! Очень важный совет для получения полной мощности и для правильной работы мотора: необходимо размещать магниты как можно ближе друг к другу. В идеале между магнитами вообще не должно быть зазоров, но это, обычно, не возможно.
could you record a video showing how to connect a 12 pole alternator to a 350 watts 36 to 48 volts 17 Am controller?
congratulations, an excellent video. Could you tell me what 3D machine model you are using to make the rotor. success and many blessings colleague 🙏
Thanks! I’m using the Creality Cr-10
Hi... why you decide to convert to a FULLL BLDC ? have any significant difference into power and torque in this new version ?
Basically you have more starting torque from a dead stop.
Vives en España?
How did you make the rotors? What is it made of?
I designed the rotor in fusion 360 and then 3D printed it with PETG. The magnets and the axle are press fit.
hi,
thanks for sharing.
good job. keep going.
can you please share the 3D model?
I also wonder if the alternator could be ran in FOC mode, just to compare the noises while spinning at no load
Foc definitely the way to go runs so smooth!! He’s done some good work there hey
@@fixitmoditbreakit7982 he also needs some beefy heatsinks and non-electrically-conductive thermal paste
@@fixitmoditbreakit7982 I will give it a go! I only wanted to check if it was posible, I'm new to the VESC world and definitely will explore it to get the maximum out of.
@@OverbuiltByHenry definitely keep the amps down when testing and make sure you erpm limit is below 60,000 I’ve blown 4 up so far lol. Main thing I found is sudden current draw that the vesc doesn’t have time to limit and going over the erpm limit. Also shorting out any of the inputs like ppm and adc lines kills them straight away
great video, thanks, I left a like.
can you kindly explain to me the advantages of having hall sensors?
Thanks! The hall sensors act like an encoder, it helps the controller to “know” the position of the rotor magnets, it has more torque at start up from a dead stop. In this video: th-cam.com/video/93eG9ZT8RY8/w-d-xo.html you can see me going in reverse against the slope of the street, I couldn’t do it before without the hall sensors.
@@OverbuiltByHenry ok, all clear, thanks. And, last question, which ESC you used that it can be programmed?
@@antonio.stefanelli I used the VESC controller, fully programmable through pc
Intelligent
Very nice. I liked this video you are a very smart young boy. My suggestion is to make a EV bike with this motor. You will have a ton of torque at your disposal. Well done.
Thank you very much!!
Hi im facing problem with bldc can you help
Buenisimo...!!! Lo has llegado probado en un vehiculo?
Todavía no, tenía pensado de fabricar un kart pequeño con piezas que tengo y montarlo, lo que no termino de tener tiempo para hacerlo.
@@OverbuiltByHenry hay el tiempo... Para hacertodos los proyectos que tengo yo en la caveza necesitaría 2o 3 vidas 😅. Uno tras otro y priorizando lo importante.
Hmm what's the kv of this? Looking for a 100-50 kv range motor...
Good i like it
Thank you!
Any idea of the power produced? I want to build a e scooter or e Motorcycle, with atleast 3-5kwh motor, running at 60-96v , kinda braud range, but I want lots of power, and run low current, atleast 60-72v nominal , the current should not be too high, with peak power about 2x nominal, I'd like about 3-5kw to be around 50-70% throttle, with a average, or nominal speed about 60kph, and potentially 2x that full throttle, now it's a matter of making it happen! Put all that in a supermoto styled bike,
I'm currently building an inertia dyno to test all the motors to see how much power and torque they output, I hope I will finish it soon!
What is the song ?
Great video, very inspirational.
Thank you! Song info is in description.
Chế Tuyệt vời quá 👍
good job haw many watts this motor and lod amps
I don’t know the power yet, I’m currently in the process of designing a motor dyno to know power and torque.
Awesome work bro. I wish you could make me a e-bike 1000 w axle. I have a fat wheel ebike 1000 watt hub with a broken accent it would be Joy. Anyway nice work on converting the alternator I want to also make a e-bike from a car alternator
Can you please explain why to use hall sensors
Can't we directly give power
Yes, you can give power directly, but at starting it might buzz/vibrate a bit until catches up to speed.
Hall sensors are a type of encoder to know in which position is the rotor to give the corresponding phase more power (like a start from a dead stop), the way I have it set up at the video is when it reaches a specified rpm switches from sensored to sensorless; basically to have more torque at the start and when it starts to reach speed disconnects the halls to achieve more rotational speed (I think).
@@OverbuiltByHenry thanks for your reply
Can you do me another favor
Can you give me the 3d printing file
@@thakurshyamsingh479 Anytime!
The rotor is custom made for this specific alternator model and neodymium magnets I had available. If you want the file, send me an e-mail at: enrengineeringytc@gmail.com and I will send you the model.
Do you want the .stl (for example to use with Cura) or the .step file (which is the design file)?
@@OverbuiltByHenry thaks for your response
i have sent the email
i want the .step file
👍👍👍
Is it able to run backwards?
Yes, you can change the direction with the software
don't you worry about it overheating?
pla will get hot and thosemagnets will go flying out.
Btw, the word "iskra" is Slovak for "spark"
Hello bro, can I buying your DC electric motor? I'm from 🇵🇭
Just replace the coil of the rotor with a magnet like those of loud speakers but be careful they are made ceramics so at high rpm they shatters
That project is dead, but if someday I try to revisit it, I would do a custom steel rotor with arc magnets if I could find some.
@@OverbuiltByHenry th-cam.com/video/MPY2JKwDNfY/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
So my motor has 30 poles. That means 8 degree??
How much Amps and voltage and kw please
Currently limited to 50A, 58V, I don’t have a dyno yet, so I don’t know power and torque
@@OverbuiltByHenry
Thank you so much 💐
@@user-yb6ln6uc4u Anytime!!
@@OverbuiltByHenry ❤️
Estaba pensando armar eso desde hace varios años, desde que empezo la pandemia deje de lado, estoy buscando obtener 2kw mas o menos no se cuantos obtuviste con ese motor 🤔🤔🤔🤔
Me estoy “apañando” un dinamómetro con freno eléctrico para averiguar potencias y par, de momento no he conseguido que funcione como debe.
note that your work could work under small loads and etc, since your rotor is printed in PLASTIC, it will not withstand well THERMAL AND MECHANICAL stress, try with higher load and working time
This french youtuber made a similar conversion and installed on a kid’s go-kart he made, and runs like a charm. Here’s the video: th-cam.com/video/HHqFX9QZ4bg/w-d-xo.html
Kannst du mir so einen Motor bauen der 220v bringt ich zahle du baust Primat nur für mein Garten.
Veg good
Magnets will loose its strength when heated, so bldc is a myth. It won't work for a long period. Heat generated in air gap and rotor will reduce the flux density of the material.
Then the motor will spin faster.
Start converting all go-carts/tuktuks with your electric motors, sell it to these companies first.
Then convert all vehicles with combustion engines with larger electric motors.
સરસ(good)
think you der
Show diagram👈👈👈
Henri you r. Mahtdar lend
Do e- bike using this motor
I don't think so, your rotor is built in plastic, it means that it will not withstand strong mechanical or thermal loads, it is plastic, just look at how the shaft fits into the motor, maybe and being dreamers with a gearbox and increasing the rpms to decrease the torque on the motor side.
is what I tell him, to test it under higher mechanical load, 200, 300, 400 w, maximum 700w because I think that winding would not hold more, it is better to leave the factory rotor and only add the hall sensors 6 hall sensors in case a pack of three fails, and a controller for the electromagnets of the rotor.
Put it on a Mower
Don’t wear long sleeve shirts when using a lathe, please.
Show diagram👈👈👈