These represent the type of low light I love….The unfortunate disadvantage is my location which is mostly subject to cloudy overcast skies with added rainfall AND wind…! Hopefully this Winter might give us some clear frosty nights…. Thank you for these inspirational clips!!
I dare say I already know a lot about photography but this time I learned new stuff. That's the fun of it, the learning never ends. Thanks for that ! Grtz from Belgium, Alain
This channel is one of the best ones out there. Not only out of photography themed ones but in general. Everything is just so well explained, videos are interesting to watch and scenery and images are beautiful. You deserve to have 100 times more subscribers. A big Thank You from Bosnia!
I'm so glad I found your channel Richard. I've learned so much due to your simple direct approach in explaining things. I can't wait to get out and put some of this new knowledge into action. Thanks for taking the time to deconstruct each shot. Best wishes, Derek.
Another great video. I've really enjoyed your tutorials but also really appreciate your comments about slowing down and thinking more about what you're feeling when shooting instead of just running around shooting everything. Keep up the great work.
Another quality video Richard, your videos are interesting and inspiring. I’ll have to watch this one again as I want to get outside and try a portrait out in the night sky. But first we have to get past our wintertime and get some clear skies. ;-)
Once again you've produced another cracking video Richard, thanks for your great tips. I just took a couple of days off and drove four hours to a friends property in rural NSW to try and utilise the new moon. Alas, bloody clouds blanketed the whole night sky and foiled my plans. Oh well. there's always a next time and I will be trying your techniques, so thanks again. My fastest lenses are 2.8, so I reckon I need to shoot about 15 sec's without pushing the ISO too high. Cheers
Very creative!! I wish my mind worked like that. On a different note, I was going to finish watching this video earlier and TH-cam said this channel was shut down. I'm glad I come back and tried it again.
I think I missed this one....not sure how I managed that! This is a great video tutorial, and the technique involving the single LED light is inspired!! Thanks again.
A really great tute - my new found photographer friend Richard. The artistry that you demonstrate is truly magnificent and somehow I think there is a few settings that are desirable to achieve the same. I'll keep watching and hopefully I'll get it. Cheers pete
wow never really thought about bokeh astro photography! great content in this vid, some of those shots are worth of movie posters oh and the lcd/led/bulb thing got me lol
I love your lessons. I have not tried the night photography yet but it looks really interesting. Maybe someone has already asked you this question: how do you eliminate / reduce the glow of urban lighting?
Thanks a lot Michal. Lots of people ask me about light pollution ... it is not a major problem where I live but there are night sky filters available that do an ok job of helping with that. Haida make one I believe.
Hi Richard the more I see of your work the more I want to get out there and take these shots. I'm a member of a small photography club U3AAT Happy Snappers on the Atherton Tablelands near Cairns FNQ. Of course our wet season can blot out the sky with clouds however it's our time of year coming up. Some of us have basic cameras and others more expensive ones my favourite being the Nikon P900 bridge camera, and also the D 3400 with a kit lens. I know your videos and experience will be perfect help for us to try new things, Thanks
Only recently have I been learning how to create Nightscape images and videos. I looked at several TH-cam channels to learn from experienced people, but when I came across your channel I knew that I had found what I needed. Your informative videos are very well done and the results are all the testimony you need. I use a micro 4/3 LUMIX G9, and GH5, so I have to mentally convert from full-frame details. But it works just fine. Thank you for your how-to guides. Could you please add more Nightscape time lapse videos?
Thanks a lot for watching, really appreciate that. I love the G9 .. I use it to film most of my youtube content. I'll be sure to add more time lapse content moving forward. All the best for 2020.
I am getting a bad feeling - I really must get out and search for some Backgrounds like yours. Obviously the Alps will have something to offer, but in Europe it is almost impossible to find ruins or old rubbish - we are so enviromentally conscious, such things are immediately cleared away. When I saw you Video of the Farm, I thought, if only we had such things here !
Another great video. As an alternative light source, could you not use your iPhone (with the brightness turned down somewhat)? Definitely loved the Xmas light trick. Better go hunting for a remote controlled version now. Keep up the excellent work
Have yet to see whether my Olympus E-M1mkii [micro4/3] setup will be able to do these night shots, the high ISO are daunting. We do have live time and live composite though. I guess as a Nikon user you might not have had much chance to use an Oly so may not be able to offer any ideas. Great work by the way.
Hi Gary, the Olympus live composite is indeed very clever, especially for star trails. I'd recommend using a noise reduction software such as Sequator on your Olympus files as they are usually pretty noisy at high iso. Overall the EM1 mk2 is a great camera but nightscape will test it's weakest area ...high iso.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I still have my 6D and f1.8 85mm so could always do the portrait ones you showed,it is still very warm and heat shimmer high here is SE Qld at the moment , these shots are the only minor regret leaving ful frame for micro 4/3.
Good informative video and fabulous shots, do you use 1st curtain or rear curtain shutter sync for the flash shots? Also, have you tried a similar technique on the beach so you blur the ocean but have a sharp subject, would look cool but would need ND filters and lots of flash power (during the day). Not sure what the ocean would look like at night, would it reflect the stars? Anyway, thanks for the inspiration.
Thanks for watching Andrew. I always use rear curtain sync with flash. It is possible to do a long exposure shot during the day but very difficult to get people to not move ... any slight movement will blur the subject during daylight. I think perhaps sunset would be the ideal time to try that type of shot. With a long enough exposure the ocean will certainly reflect the stars although as it's always moving the effect is somewhat diminished. Fresh water lakes are usually calmer and reflect better.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I guess someone standing in the surf would get knocked around, perhaps someone on the beach with ocean in background, turn the ocean to mist with long exposure + ND, then hit them with some mega studio strobe light via rear curtain, could look cool. I only have a Godox AD360 strobe so don't think it would have the power to defeat the ND required and get a good exposure. Love the single LED string light hack you have, worked great for the oil lamp image. Quite amazing it lights faces at 1ft lol. Many thanks for your reply, will get stuck into a few more of your videos for further inspiration!
@@TheAndyroo770 Hey Andrew, I would underestimate the AD360 it's a pretty powerful light, especially if you use the 5 inch reflector that it comes with.
I'm so glad I stumbled upon your channel, I've learnt a lot (and subscribed :P)! For instances where I want both the human and stars in focus, where should my focus be? On the human or on the stars near infinity? Thanks
Thanks so much for watching. It depends a lot on the lens focal length. To get stars in focus you need to focus to infinity, but that means that if your person is too close to the camera they will not be in focus. As a general rule if you're using a full frame camera with a 14 - 16mm lens then you could probably get away with about a 3 meter distance. This will change as you zoom the focal length. The only way to get everything sharp and really close, especially with longer focal lengths is to blend 2 separate images.
Richard your videos are amazing, love watching them (fome germany) :) i will try nightscape photography out when the weather will be better here. i shoot with a canon 5d classic 24mm f3.5 lens, do you think that will work?
Hi Richard. Thanks for an inspiring video. Excuse my ignorance but do you use three Yongnuo transceivers so you can remotely trigger the shutter release and the off camera flash at the same time? Thanks in advance for your response
Richard, I have just recently discovered Nightscape Images and I am loving your videos and images. I too shoot with a D750 and really like it, but am attracted to the Z6, especially after your video--thank you for your comprehensive review. I have a bit of a hearing problem. You were discussing the focus setting that gives the red outline on the screen . I have never seen that before. First, what is the focus setting, and second, is it unique to the Z series or is it available on my D750 and I have never discovered it? Really appreciate your efforts to make the complex simple. Thank you!!
These photos are all one single image. I do have videos about incorporating separate foregrounds and backgrounds. See here: th-cam.com/video/cS3UE3XBWMw/w-d-xo.html But I also have many videos on this topic. th-cam.com/play/PLAYKmqkUeSM_ovfT8k7ifk26X4zjeqJWb.html
Nice video Richard, very inspirational. I would like your advice on something. I'm upgrading my camera to a Nikon D850. I can only afford one lens and I've narrowed it down to the Tamron 24-70 f2.8 or the Nikon 24-120 f4. They're both about the same price (the Nikon a bit cheaper if you can find it as a bundle with the camera). I shoot mostly landscapes but after watching your videos I definitely want to try nightscapes. Do you think it is worth giving up some focal length in order to get the wider aperture? Can I take great nightscapes at f4? Your advice would really help as I admire your work. Thanks, cheers.
Hi David, I think the 24-70 f2.8 would be the better option. I have the Tamron lens and really like it. There may be times you wish you had a wider focal length such as the Tamron 15-30 f2.8 which is also an amazing lens but the extra aperture will be invaluable for nightscapes. You can shoot at f4 but you'll be needing to boost the iso way up. Hope that's helpful.
Interesting video ! I want to ask you, if I want to do shoots of siluet, to use flash as you show, for example I place flash on the ground, because I dont have tripod for flash, how I can realese the flash, I need remote control or what? Thank you ;)
Switched to my account rather than my sons. Once again enjoyed the video. just a small query when i remember...the remote shutter you use, do you use a timed shutter time or do you press the shutter when you move every time to go to a new angle for various shots for stacking purposes in lightroom/photoshop.
That's correct Jakob, I do use these simple flash triggers to release the shutter on my cameras .. very handy as you can do both things at the same time with the same triggers.
I'm not quite sure how you actually fire the flash, when you are positioned between it and the camera? It has to be some distance away from you to achieve the effect shown. Do you have some sort of remote trigger?
Thanks Keith. I have a Panasonic G9 but not that particular lens. It's a wonderful daylight camera and I make most of my videos with it. It struggles in low light and high iso but I think if you can stack the night sky images to remove the noise in software like Sequator you'll get great results.
Love your videos Richard, many thanks. One question .I noticed that a lot of your photos are at high ISO.Do you find that introduces noise? Do you do any noise reduction in post? Cheers Eli
Hi Eli, thanks heaps for watching. You'll find that most nightscapes are shot at high iso because the stars are very faint. Yes that does introduce noise and I do a fair amount of noise reduction in post.
love how you think outside the box, hows about a quick tutorial in capturing the milky way in one shot, im still trying that as im not very good with photoshop.
So where do you place your flash shutters release triggers, I have two sets of yongnuo triggers now, but not quite sure how to use both so I can get a selfie under the stars, which I'm going to attempt this weekend, weather permitting
Hey Suzanne, you'll need to put one on the hot shoe of your camera set to TX. One under your flash set to TRX. One mounted somewhere on your tripod connected to your remote socket on the camera set to TRX and one in your hand set to TRX to start the camera rolling. I have a little bracket which I made to mount a trigger on my tripod. See 20:57 in this video. th-cam.com/video/CNOHxtoUyJE/w-d-xo.html (In fact watch the whole video) See 15:20 in this video also. th-cam.com/video/XwnssUKRo08/w-d-xo.html
@@nightscapeimages.richard triggers are the same as yours, the yongnuo ones, ( I bought them on your recommendation) just got a new flash neewer 750, I sent a picture of it to you in an Instagram msg
@@andysuzierawlins5462 So on the side of the triggers there is a slider switch with TX and TRX printed on it. On your flash make sure it's set to M mode (Manual not TTL). To test to see if it's working attach a trigger underneath the flash and set it to TRX, then grab another trigger and set it to TX. When everything is turned on, press the big button on the top of your trigger and the flash should fire. Let me know how you go.
is it possible to: flash the model then close the light of the lcd screen , then have your model out of the screen for the sky ?! will i see a light ghost of my model at 10 secs exposure or more ? im worry that the light reflect in their faces would still be on their face while leaving the frame. btw, a release cable shutter can open the back light while you clic then go of if you dont full clic ;) that way they dont need their hands on the camera
Usually the flash is very bright especially compared to the quick light of the lcd screen. Also if you move the model you will get a ghost effect with stars showing through where their face was originally.
ah richard that was a HUMDINGER mate as usual straight to the point even a dummy like me understood maybe you could teach politicans yeah i know you cant do the impossable seeya next time mate cheers an beers bobby.
Whoa! There is one below you my friend (bobby) and it really is an "humdinger" of a tutorial. My two-bobs worth; don't take 20 yrs away from a passion unless you find Richard to help you get it back.
Every days a school day and this has got to be one of the better ones. Many Thanks
Thanks a lot Chris
Great video thanks Richard. Interesting how you 'lit' the lantern!
Thanks so much for watching Brendan
These represent the type of low light I love….The unfortunate disadvantage is my location which is mostly subject to cloudy overcast skies with added rainfall AND wind…! Hopefully this Winter might give us some clear frosty nights…. Thank you for these inspirational clips!!
You're very welcome Matthew. I appreciate your comments.
I'm fairly new to your channel but I'm already blown away by the quality of your videos. Absolutely brilliant work, Richard.
Thanks so much David, really appreciate your encouragement.
I dare say I already know a lot about photography but this time I learned new stuff. That's the fun of it, the learning never ends. Thanks for that !
Grtz from Belgium,
Alain
Thanks a lot for watching Alain, really appreciate your comments
OMG! We made it on your TH-cam thumbnail and on your vlog. How exciting!! Thanks, Richard and you are the best!
Only the very best people make it onto my channel Jenny. You and Cheng were the best models ...!!!
Jenny, are you ladies Native (Aboriginal / Indigenous)Australians?
Interesting technique. Will need to try it out on my next backpacking trip. Thanks for sharing Richard.
Really appreciate you watching
I love this channel!! 😍📸👏👏👏
I'm really pleased to hear that Rod, thanks.
I liked the self portrait at 5.28. Very sharp for a night shot
Thanks very much Stephen
This channel is one of the best ones out there. Not only out of photography themed ones but in general. Everything is just so well explained, videos are interesting to watch and scenery and images are beautiful. You deserve to have 100 times more subscribers. A big Thank You from Bosnia!
Really appreciate your thoughts .. thank you so much
I'm so glad I found your channel Richard. I've learned so much due to your simple direct approach in explaining things. I can't wait to get out and put some of this new knowledge into action. Thanks for taking the time to deconstruct each shot. Best wishes, Derek.
Thanks so much for watching the video Derek, I really appreciate it.
Another informative video to take my night photography to another level. You are a natural teacher!
You're very kind Cheryl, thanks so much.
excellent again Richard , many thanks.
Thanks as always Garry
Awesome tips and portraits here Richard! Love a bit of DIY ingenuity:) nice one 👍
Thanks heaps Richard. Sometimes you have to use what's at hand.
Nice one, going to try this out when it stops raining ! good old Britain.
Good on you Paul, appreciate you watching
Lots of super ideas Richard. Thanks for the video!! :-)
My pleasure Dale, thanks for watching
your videos are fantastic - and addictive ! hard to stop watching them and get on with the days work !
Haha ... thanks heaps for watching Hayden, really appreciated
Again ... you’re the best. I love everything you post
So pleased you do Carole
Fantastic!
Many thanks Terry
Rich your videos are top class and so informative. Great work yet again! Love watching them
Thanks heaps mate, really appreciated.
Your videos are always inspiring and well explained. Thanks for sharing with us, richard
You're welcome Henri
Definitely want to give this a go!
Thanks Simon, I'll be keen to see how you go
Excellent video
Loved the lantern trick
Well done thanks
Thanks very much for watching Phillip
Another cracking video tutorial Richard, thanks.
And for sharing you expertise with us, fantastic.
Really appreciate you watching
you are seriously awesome.
Very kind of you to say Michael
I hit the bell button. Looking forward for next lesson!!! Notebook is ready to take some notes. Thanks for another great educational video.
Really appreciate that Milorad
Just as magnificent as usual. keet up the epic work 👌
Thanks a lot Zeeshan
Thank you! It was very very helpful video!
I'm very pleased to hear that Sergey.
Another great video. I've really enjoyed your tutorials but also really appreciate your comments about slowing down and thinking more about what you're feeling when shooting instead of just running around shooting everything. Keep up the great work.
Really appreciate you watching and commenting Christian.
As allways a great tutorial with mind blowing results .
Best regards from norway 😃
Thanks very much my friend
Another quality video Richard, your videos are interesting and inspiring. I’ll have to watch this one again as I want to get outside and try a portrait out in the night sky. But first we have to get past our wintertime and get some clear skies. ;-)
Thanks for watching Raymond ... the winter weather is always a problem.
Once again you've produced another cracking video Richard, thanks for your great tips.
I just took a couple of days off and drove four hours to a friends property in rural NSW to try and utilise the new moon. Alas, bloody clouds blanketed the whole night sky and foiled my plans. Oh well. there's always a next time and I will be trying your techniques, so thanks again.
My fastest lenses are 2.8, so I reckon I need to shoot about 15 sec's without pushing the ISO too high. Cheers
Thanks heaps Jim. Just try the different settings and see how you go.
Richard - an excellent video as usual, thank you so much for sharing your techniques and hints / tips.
Thanks a lot Stephen
Amazing job! Well done sir!
Thanks so much for watching
Excellent as always, Richard! Thank you so much for taking the time to produce these fantastic tutorials and sharing them. I can't wait to see more.
Thanks a lot Colin, plenty more in the pipeline
Very creative!! I wish my mind worked like that. On a different note, I was going to finish watching this video earlier and TH-cam said this channel was shut down. I'm glad I come back and tried it again.
Thanks Bryan. Yes there was a glitch yesterday that somehow closed the channel for a while. Thankfully it's back up now.
I think I missed this one....not sure how I managed that! This is a great video tutorial, and the technique involving the single LED light is inspired!! Thanks again.
Thanks again for watching Simon, as always I appreciate you watching.
A really great tute - my new found photographer friend Richard. The artistry that you demonstrate is truly magnificent and somehow I think there is a few settings that are desirable to achieve the same. I'll keep watching and hopefully I'll get it. Cheers pete
Thanks a lot Pete. Always happy to chat about settings anytime.
This is great man!
Thanks for sharing your experiences!
Really appreciate you watching Flavio
In love with your videos mate. Absolutely amazing 🥰🥰
Thanks so much Sadiq
yes.. this is really a topic I wanted you to discuss. Thanks a lot :d
Thanks heaps David, glad you liked it.
very useful info. thanks for the hardwork
Thanks very much for watching Alex, I very much appreciate it.
Thanks for another great video mate ...
Really appreciate that Tim
Great tutorial. I think the image at 7:17 is epic!
Glad you like it Walter, thank you
Excellent tutorial! Thanks for sharing your tips and tricks. Have a great weekend.
Really appreciate that Terry
Awesome ideas , again will have to attempt this (soon).
Great Malcolm, thanks for watching.
This was fun watching! Totally missed it b4. More like this plz 🙂👍
Thanks a lot for watching, really appreciated.
Thanks Richard, that was extremely interesting
Thanks so much for watching Grant ..!!
awesome!
Thanks so much De W
Great video
Thank you Brian
Excellent content. Thanks!
Thank you so much for watching Simon
impressive as always
Thank you so much NatureLove
Excellent video Richard, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us, keep it up! 👌🏻👍🏻
I'll do my best, thanks for watching
Simple tricks but the result is amazing..Great work
Thanks heaps for watching
Love your work!
Thank you so much DanMade.au
wow never really thought about bokeh astro photography! great content in this vid, some of those shots are worth of movie posters
oh and the lcd/led/bulb thing got me lol
Really appreciated Hanamichi80 thanks for watching
Fantastic! I love your Chanel. Amazing Pictures!
Best wishes from Germany
Thank you so much for your great encouragement Holger
I love your lessons.
I have not tried the night photography yet but it looks really interesting.
Maybe someone has already asked you this question: how do you eliminate / reduce the glow of urban lighting?
Thanks a lot Michal. Lots of people ask me about light pollution ... it is not a major problem where I live but there are night sky filters available that do an ok job of helping with that. Haida make one I believe.
Thank You. :)
Glad you are back, that was an odd sight yesterday and I was very unhappy about it!
So was I Joshua, so was I. I have no idea what happened but I'm happy now. Thanks for watching.
Hi Richard the more I see of your work the more I want to get out there and take these shots. I'm a member of a small photography club U3AAT Happy Snappers on the Atherton Tablelands near Cairns FNQ. Of course our wet season can blot out the sky with clouds however it's our time of year coming up. Some of us have basic cameras and others more expensive ones my favourite being the Nikon P900 bridge camera, and also the D 3400 with a kit lens. I know your videos and experience will be perfect help for us to try new things, Thanks
Good on you Rick really appreciate your comments and support
Only recently have I been learning how to create Nightscape images and videos. I looked at several TH-cam channels to learn from experienced people, but when I came across your channel I knew that I had found what I needed. Your informative videos are very well done and the results are all the testimony you need. I use a micro 4/3 LUMIX G9, and GH5, so I have to mentally convert from full-frame details. But it works just fine.
Thank you for your how-to guides. Could you please add more Nightscape time lapse videos?
Thanks a lot for watching, really appreciate that. I love the G9 .. I use it to film most of my youtube content. I'll be sure to add more time lapse content moving forward. All the best for 2020.
Amazing
Really pleased you like it, thank you
I am getting a bad feeling - I really must get out and search for some Backgrounds like yours. Obviously the Alps will have something to offer, but in Europe it is almost impossible to find ruins or old rubbish - we are so enviromentally conscious, such things are immediately cleared away. When I saw you Video of the Farm, I thought, if only we had such things here !
Thanks David. I suppose it works both ways .. we have lots of stuff laying around but no beautiful mountain areas ...!!!
Great stuff... Thanks . I've got a project now...
Good on you Dennis, I'll be interested in your results. Thanks for watching
Tks
Thank you Doume
Bardzo mi się podoba Twój kanał :) Pozdrowienia z Polski :)
Thank you very much for watching
Another great video. As an alternative light source, could you not use your iPhone (with the brightness turned down somewhat)? Definitely loved the Xmas light trick. Better go hunting for a remote controlled version now. Keep up the excellent work
Hi Sue, yes you certainly can use the screen on the phone. I've used that in a couple of images. Thanks for watching
Another awesome video. Did you have to tweak those photos in PS to adjust colour temp.?
Thanks Jon. All these nightscapes have to be tweaked in Lightroom or Photoshop when you shoot in raw format.
Another excellent tutorial video Richard... do you ever use 2nd curtain sync to freeze your night subjects ?
Hi Chris, thanks for the comment. Yes I certainly do use rear curtain sync ... in fact my camera is permanently set to it.
Have yet to see whether my Olympus E-M1mkii [micro4/3] setup will be able to do these night shots, the high ISO are daunting. We do have live time and live composite though. I guess as a Nikon user you might not have had much chance to use an Oly so may not be able to offer any ideas. Great work by the way.
Hi Gary, the Olympus live composite is indeed very clever, especially for star trails. I'd recommend using a noise reduction software such as Sequator on your Olympus files as they are usually pretty noisy at high iso. Overall the EM1 mk2 is a great camera but nightscape will test it's weakest area ...high iso.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I still have my 6D and f1.8 85mm so could always do the portrait ones you showed,it is still very warm and heat shimmer high here is SE Qld at the moment , these shots are the only minor regret leaving ful frame for micro 4/3.
I wouldn't discount the Olympus Gary, it will just need some help with the high iso noise.
Hello hello...Terry Lane have excellent videos about sorting Noise in Olympus Workspace (and Wiewer 3)...!
Good informative video and fabulous shots, do you use 1st curtain or rear curtain shutter sync for the flash shots? Also, have you tried a similar technique on the beach so you blur the ocean but have a sharp subject, would look cool but would need ND filters and lots of flash power (during the day). Not sure what the ocean would look like at night, would it reflect the stars? Anyway, thanks for the inspiration.
Thanks for watching Andrew. I always use rear curtain sync with flash. It is possible to do a long exposure shot during the day but very difficult to get people to not move ... any slight movement will blur the subject during daylight. I think perhaps sunset would be the ideal time to try that type of shot. With a long enough exposure the ocean will certainly reflect the stars although as it's always moving the effect is somewhat diminished. Fresh water lakes are usually calmer and reflect better.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I guess someone standing in the surf would get knocked around, perhaps someone on the beach with ocean in background, turn the ocean to mist with long exposure + ND, then hit them with some mega studio strobe light via rear curtain, could look cool. I only have a Godox AD360 strobe so don't think it would have the power to defeat the ND required and get a good exposure.
Love the single LED string light hack you have, worked great for the oil lamp image. Quite amazing it lights faces at 1ft lol.
Many thanks for your reply, will get stuck into a few more of your videos for further inspiration!
@@TheAndyroo770 Hey Andrew, I would underestimate the AD360 it's a pretty powerful light, especially if you use the 5 inch reflector that it comes with.
I'm so glad I stumbled upon your channel, I've learnt a lot (and subscribed :P)! For instances where I want both the human and stars in focus, where should my focus be? On the human or on the stars near infinity? Thanks
Thanks so much for watching. It depends a lot on the lens focal length. To get stars in focus you need to focus to infinity, but that means that if your person is too close to the camera they will not be in focus. As a general rule if you're using a full frame camera with a 14 - 16mm lens then you could probably get away with about a 3 meter distance. This will change as you zoom the focal length.
The only way to get everything sharp and really close, especially with longer focal lengths is to blend 2 separate images.
Richard your videos are amazing, love watching them (fome germany) :) i will try nightscape photography out when the weather will be better here. i shoot with a canon 5d classic 24mm f3.5 lens, do you think that will work?
Thanks so much for watching. The 5Dwill work but I'd suggest a faster aperture lens for best results.
Wow😘😘😍😍
Hi Richard. Thanks for an inspiring video. Excuse my ignorance but do you use three Yongnuo transceivers so you can remotely trigger the shutter release and the off camera flash at the same time? Thanks in advance for your response
Thanks a lot Justin. Yes that is exactly how I trigger both the camera and the flash. It works very well.
Richard, I have just recently discovered Nightscape Images and I am loving your videos and images. I too shoot with a D750 and really like it, but am attracted to the Z6, especially after your video--thank you for your comprehensive review. I have a bit of a hearing problem. You were discussing the focus setting that gives the red outline on the screen . I have never seen that before. First, what is the focus setting, and second, is it unique to the Z series or is it available on my D750 and I have never discovered it? Really appreciate your efforts to make the complex simple. Thank you!!
Thanks Bruce, it's called focus peaking on the Z6 and it's in the i button on the back of camera.
Thank you, Richard. Watching the 1937 Chev light painting video when this came in. Good stuff. Thanks so much!
@@bruceblaylock8682 Awesome Bruce
Fantastic photo's you really inspire me to try this type of camera work. One question though. did you use any types of filters? If so which one?
Thanks very much for the comment Dave. No I don't use any filters.
Great job as always Richard. When you using off camera flash are you manually triggering or using rear curtain sync?
Hi David, I'm using rear curtain sync
Make video on milkyway smart phone photography. Great topic by the way.
Thanks for watching Jeeva. I'm afraid my smart phone is pretty useless for milky way shots.
@@nightscapeimages.richard which smart phone?
@@jeevajp2574 I use an Oppo R9s Plus
Amazing work. Is there any noise at that ISO 4000
Thanks for watching Suman, yes there is noise at iso4000 but the Nikon full frame cameras handle it pretty well.
hizo algun video que hable como integrar sujetos y cielo ?
These photos are all one single image. I do have videos about incorporating separate foregrounds and backgrounds. See here: th-cam.com/video/cS3UE3XBWMw/w-d-xo.html But I also have many videos on this topic. th-cam.com/play/PLAYKmqkUeSM_ovfT8k7ifk26X4zjeqJWb.html
Nice video Richard, very inspirational. I would like your advice on something. I'm upgrading my camera to a Nikon D850. I can only afford one lens and I've narrowed it down to the Tamron 24-70 f2.8 or the Nikon 24-120 f4. They're both about the same price (the Nikon a bit cheaper if you can find it as a bundle with the camera). I shoot mostly landscapes but after watching your videos I definitely want to try nightscapes. Do you think it is worth giving up some focal length in order to get the wider aperture? Can I take great nightscapes at f4? Your advice would really help as I admire your work. Thanks, cheers.
Hi David, I think the 24-70 f2.8 would be the better option. I have the Tamron lens and really like it. There may be times you wish you had a wider focal length such as the Tamron 15-30 f2.8 which is also an amazing lens but the extra aperture will be invaluable for nightscapes. You can shoot at f4 but you'll be needing to boost the iso way up. Hope that's helpful.
Nightscape Images Thank you, that's the one I was leaning towards.
Interesting video ! I want to ask you, if I want to do shoots of siluet, to use flash as you show, for example I place flash on the ground, because I dont have tripod for flash, how I can realese the flash, I need remote control or what? Thank you ;)
Thanks for watching Linas. Yes you will need some way of triggering the flash. I use a wireless remote which is triggered from the camera hot shoe.
como hizo para fotografiar a las personas en las demas fotos, como la de la boda o fiesta?
With the wedding photos I'm using off camera flash . .usually 2 flash units.
Switched to my account rather than my sons.
Once again enjoyed the video. just a small query when i remember...the remote shutter you use, do you use a timed shutter time or do you press the shutter when you move every time to go to a new angle for various shots for stacking purposes in lightroom/photoshop.
No worries Ian. Thanks heaps for watching. I always press the remote shutter for each shot. I don't use any timers at all.
Hello Richard...Very informative and useful video...! What Remote do you use for camera exposure and how is it connected...?
I use the Yongnup rf603ii. It's wireless and simply plugs into the remote port on the camera. Thanks for watching Jakob
Thank you Richard...I thought so. In some of your videos you use identical remotes for flash and shutter.
That's correct Jakob, I do use these simple flash triggers to release the shutter on my cameras .. very handy as you can do both things at the same time with the same triggers.
I'm not quite sure how you actually fire the flash, when you are positioned between it and the camera? It has to be some distance away from you to achieve the effect shown. Do you have some sort of remote trigger?
Hi Matt, I use a simple off camera flash trigger which just happens to be the same device I use to fire the camera shutter. Yongnuo rf603ii
great video as always 👍
what do you think about the Panasonic g9 with the 12mm to 60mm f2.8 for astro photography?
Thanks Keith. I have a Panasonic G9 but not that particular lens. It's a wonderful daylight camera and I make most of my videos with it. It struggles in low light and high iso but I think if you can stack the night sky images to remove the noise in software like Sequator you'll get great results.
@@nightscapeimages.richard ok thanks do you have any recommendations that aren't full frame?
Hey Keith, lots of people are doing well with the Fuji cameras like the XT-3
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks for your help 🙂
Superb!! I would like to ask you a question. How will you monetize your nightscape photos.
Thanks for watching aasish rs. I sell prints etc and run nightscape workshops.
Amazing!
How i can focus on the person in totally dark?
Thanks so much for watching. I use a torch to light them up to focus in the dark. Manual focus is the best method.
Love your videos Richard, many thanks.
One question .I noticed that a lot of your photos are at high ISO.Do you find that introduces noise?
Do you do any noise reduction in post?
Cheers
Eli
Hi Eli, thanks heaps for watching. You'll find that most nightscapes are shot at high iso because the stars are very faint. Yes that does introduce noise and I do a fair amount of noise reduction in post.
love how you think outside the box, hows about a quick tutorial in capturing the milky way in one shot, im still trying that as im not very good with photoshop.
Thanks Craig .. I'll get to that at some stage.
I have made to the big time. I saw some images of the farm, looking very dry.
Haha ... looking good there Pete. Yes it is very dry
My camera has a long exposure noise reduction setting. Should I use this setting for sky at night?
Hi Andrew, I generally turn that setting off .. especially when shooting panoramas sequences like this as it makes the whole process very much longer.
So where do you place your flash shutters release triggers, I have two sets of yongnuo triggers now, but not quite sure how to use both so I can get a selfie under the stars, which I'm going to attempt this weekend, weather permitting
Hey Suzanne, you'll need to put one on the hot shoe of your camera set to TX. One under your flash set to TRX. One mounted somewhere on your tripod connected to your remote socket on the camera set to TRX and one in your hand set to TRX to start the camera rolling. I have a little bracket which I made to mount a trigger on my tripod. See 20:57 in this video. th-cam.com/video/CNOHxtoUyJE/w-d-xo.html (In fact watch the whole video) See 15:20 in this video also. th-cam.com/video/XwnssUKRo08/w-d-xo.html
@@nightscapeimages.richard what do yo mean tx and TRX?, it only has an on/off switch
@@andysuzierawlins5462 What kind of triggers are you using ..??? And what is the exact brand and model of the flash ...??
@@nightscapeimages.richard triggers are the same as yours, the yongnuo ones, ( I bought them on your recommendation) just got a new flash neewer 750, I sent a picture of it to you in an Instagram msg
@@andysuzierawlins5462 So on the side of the triggers there is a slider switch with TX and TRX printed on it. On your flash make sure it's set to M mode (Manual not TTL). To test to see if it's working attach a trigger underneath the flash and set it to TRX, then grab another trigger and set it to TX. When everything is turned on, press the big button on the top of your trigger and the flash should fire. Let me know how you go.
Hi Richard, can i know the locations you take those shots?
All these are predominantly in Central Victoria Australia
Oh, thanks for your reply.
is it possible to: flash the model then close the light of the lcd screen , then have your model out of the screen for the sky ?! will i see a light ghost of my model at 10 secs exposure or more ?
im worry that the light reflect in their faces would still be on their face while leaving the frame.
btw, a release cable shutter can open the back light while you clic then go of if you dont full clic ;) that way they dont need their hands on the camera
Usually the flash is very bright especially compared to the quick light of the lcd screen. Also if you move the model you will get a ghost effect with stars showing through where their face was originally.
dang was hoping to be the first to comment
Well I still appreciate your comment Noealz Photo ... thanks.
ah richard that was a HUMDINGER mate as usual straight to the point even a dummy like me understood maybe you could teach politicans yeah i know you cant do the impossable seeya next time mate cheers an beers bobby.
Haha ... thanks heaps for the comments Bobby ...!!!
Whoa! There is one below you my friend (bobby) and it really is an "humdinger" of a tutorial. My two-bobs worth; don't take 20 yrs away from a passion unless you find Richard to help you get it back.
@@petronics2454 Thanks heaps for watching
Can you list the magnetic gel and grid brand/model?
Hi Doug. They are made by Magmod.