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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- This is how I coat my lead cast bullets with powder coat. I never had much luck with the dry tumbling method so I tried and eventually came out with this. Many rounds down the barrel I decided to share it.
Powder coats: www.eastwood.c...
Hexagonal Boron Nitride dry lubricant: www.amazon.com...
If you enjoyed my video and would like to donate to my shooting fund here is my PPal link:
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I have been powder coating for about 10 years and this is the first time I've seen somebody doing the wet powder coating learning something new everyday thanks for the video
I came up with a similar solution but just used carb cleaner in a spray can . Makes a nice thin coat very uniform.
mee too im doing it for the first time today as im waatching the video
I have been powder coating my cast bullets for years but always had to contend with the mess created during the process. I never tried the process your video outlined. However, I ran across this video after my wife complained about the red powder on my white T-shirt a few days ago and decided to give it a shot. There is a learning curve associated in the amount of powder vs acetone to arrive at the right consistency in order to achieve a light first coat which necessitates a second one to achieve good results. How ever as I am on my last box of small pistol primers and there is none in stock ANYWHERE in these 50 states. I will just be doing this to build up my stock of bullets for FUTURE reloading. Congrats on a good how to video and much less messy process!
yea im in cali and primers arent easy to find..
There are videos to show how to reload primers now. If you saved your spent primers.
A wife complaining? There's a shocker xD just joking
This is the first video I've seen on the wet method. A little more involved than dry, but looks foolproof to me, and maybe a better result. I'll have to give it a whirl. Thanks.
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I have done both. I went back to dry. I saw no long-run difference. The barrel stayed clean both ways.
@@1stFlyingeagle This is meant for folks like me, that no matter how, we can't get the dry method to work, maybe its humidity, I don't know. But this works as alternative method for sure.
I've reloaded jacketed bullets for over 35 years but cast bullets are quite a different animal. Eager to learn all that I can before delving too deep into the process. I'd like to thank you for this video and will most likely use this method when I get to this point. I appreciate the time and effort that it took to make this video. Again, thank you!
Very nicely explained and filmed! You said that you were new to filming but it doesn't show at all, both filming and cutting is very good! Definitively on pair with a lot of the big 2A-channels! Subbed =D
I tried this method and it worked great! I had fantastic results the first time!.... I had better results with gloss powders rather than flat colors... It does take 2 coats to look good....
Tried this method the past two days. Switched to using lacquer thinner on the second day and prefer it over acetone. Definitely like the wet method over the dry method. Thanks for the info.
I had some l. thinner as well but decided on acetone. Nice to know that work too!
Excellent video. Thanks for posting it. I look forward to trying this method.
Great video gonna have to try this method. Ive been having a lot of trouble dry tumbling as well.
Let me know how it worked. Solved my dry dilemma!
great video , thank you.
Much better coverage than the dry method, I'm sold! Thanks for the video...subbed
BTW, when you say to let them dry completely, don't skip this step before cooking or you will get pimples on the bullets from the acetone evaporating...lol.
Very simple method for sure. They came out really nice. Like the colors too! Thanks for the intel, good stuff!
I might stick to blue myself, I like blue. :)
I do dry powdercoating but I will try this method 👍
I've been doing powder coating wrong.. this method is way better then the dry method!
Over the decades I started out with wax/groove method with the Lyman lube sizer, to the Lee tumble lube and sizer to wet powder coating and using an inverted Lee sizer which is by far the best method I’ve used yet.
Great job!! Very professional looking and I’m going to try it because I have had terrible luck with dry methods. Thanks for sharing!!🏆
I found quality of powder matters I tried my first run last week with harbor freight powder that didn’t go to well then I got prismatic powder sindbad purple off Amazon and they come out amazing with the shake n bake method got some ziploc twist containers and they come out perfect
I really love your method!... You did a great job explaining how to do it... I subscribed and look forward to your next video!
I had no idea you could do it wet with acetone! I have been doing it kinda dry by getting the bullets a little damp before putting them in a powder bucket and just accepting there is like a 20% rejection rate! You rock man!
Thanks for the video, ive had a devil of a time getting pc to stick, i have about give up and went to 45/45/10
Always good to quench your Bullets it gives them a fast hardening and cools down to handle faster
6:40 Trust me when I say that the receiving end of a bullet will not care for the color of it. LOL. I actually like the turquoise color. Great video!!!!
My girlfriend like the gelato too but seriously considering this method I just finished up 1000 147gr round flat tip 9mm last night. Glad I seen this seems like a great way to save powder. And get a nice smooth finish
Lol I just polished up a can of Gelato last night, then figured out I can use the can as a way to measure out 7.5lbs of bullets (Lee .356 124gr RN) for doing Hi-Tek coating, 7.5 pounds is perfect for the oven I'm using and it just so happens that Gelato can is a perfect measure lol, versus using the kitchen scale, the family isn't so keen on using it with lead 😄.
Thanks , I'll give this a try .
Best video on the tube on this subject. 2 thumbs up.
Nice job! This is great to color code your bullit weight. Great video.
I've never tried wet powder coating. But I'm going to try it now.
Will try that on next batch. Thanks for your tips
Nice video. Your way saves a lot on powder usage.
Thanks dude for a great video I just started Your method and it working way better than dry!!! That being said I got my powder from harbor freight and I was devastated when my bullets came out in a clunk pile!! Had to re melt and try again with no success😭 then I saw your video and gave it a try they came out way better but I didn’t have the white powder!! I saw the link and going to order some and I have a order of powder from Eastwood coming soon thanks again🤙🤙🤙
I just tried this method and they came out terrible. Some were okay and some looked like they had the measles....all bumpy. Not sure if I can even use them. I then did another batch using my old method and they came out much better. Maybe I'm not doing something right. I will give it another try.
This works like a charm
1st time success,...thanks
Good Video well presented. I am having a little trouble getting a good finish on my dry coat. I just got some Acetone will give it a go.
Very good video. Never heard of adding the extra powder.
I use the Hexagonal Boron Nitride instead of Moly for coating my High-power rifle bullets... not as messy and no second waxing stage.
I spray the bullets with carb cleaner then shake em . I get a thinner more evenly applied coat.
Gonna try this. All the other methods that I tried were not good.
Thanks
Just ran across this. Very nice method. Basically a hybrid with HiTek coating. My challenge was figuring out the amount of acetone to use. Might have to try again :)
Excellent instructional video. 👍🏻
nice method ,i did 2 coatings with dry powder ,if the powder was not doing it at first ,got good result to ,
Thanks for the demonstration.
I like this idea, going to give it a try.
Cool! Now I know how to make a tracer round!
*Goes straight to hardware store, purchases flares* ;)
I'm going to have to try this with my problematic powders from powder buy the pound.
Did you?
@@gruntspy44 Not yet. I've got some new Eastwood powders that I've been trying..
I hear talk of Eastwood powders 👍🏼 and HF powders 👎🏼...any of you ever tried Prizmatic Powders I think they're called...?
Great video and presentation. I really like the use of the acetone to wet coat the bullets. Thanks for posting!
Similar to how hi tec is done. I’m going to give this a shot.
Fantastic work sir. Appreciate it alot. Best wishes from Australia
Thanks for the wishes, glad you found it usefull!
Great idea, great video.
Pretty cool. I will have to try this.good video!!
I have heard just recently that tumbling them dry in bucket with yellow airsoft bbs and the powder too gives them the static charge to hold the powdercoat as well. Haven't tried yet though.
I've tried that too, different colors of bbs, etc. Too much voodoo for me. Wet is only thing that gave me consistent results.
@@reloadman3006 Cool, hadn't gotten to it myself. Was told it had to be yellow though. Local sporting goods store is where I heard it. Thanks for your info, man.
This is a method i`m gona try. I used to use powdercoat before, but got bad cover on the bullets in the summer doing this the dry method.....probably the humination in the weather is to high "I`m from Norway". So i startet with Hi-Tec and the method is nearly the same, but the cost of bying Hi-Tec is way more than powdercoat. So....this is the way to go :) Thanks for sharing your method.....this is the best one I have seen
Great video, thanks for sharing. I’m also your number 15. Look8ng forward to more content.
I always had problems with the dry method. Acetone had a perfect coat. Only way for me.
Very, VERY interesting method !
Thank you very much for sharing. I use Prismatic Powders which (If I understood correctly) are giving me a hard time with the dry shake and bake method, even with airsoft BBs to add static as I read in several forums, and it seems to be because those are made to be used in a pistol painter. I'm gonna try a batch with the method you showed.
-The last batch I coated gave me better coating with some metallic green, but for the oven step I put them inside before the oven completely pre-heated, the red and especially purple seemingly left the lead entirely, and I have what looks like lead droplets around the bottom of my bullets ; Is it possible I left the oven on too long (~20-25min) or too hot ? (set to 210 °C) and some of the surface lead melted off ? They were pure lead, not alloy, does it have an incidence on melting temp vs Linotype alloy ?
-Yours are properly coated all around their surface : at higher velocities/pressures (I reload .357 and intend to powder coat some cast Linotype, my molds are a Keith-style SWC gas-check base 158gr, and an RNFP plain base 125gr), do you think a gas-check isn't necessary as the base is fully coated, or should I rather put a gas-check on it either way ?
Thanks a lot.
Nice video, and nice looking results!
Thanks. Looks easy enough!
There's evidence that 400 degrees at 20 minutes is overkill from the standpoint of the powder coating curing (depending on the product used*). You only need to heat it to the point that the tgic (tri glycidyl isocyanurate) fuses, which happens at temperatures as low as 200 - 250 degrees.
You can tell that powder fusion has commenced by observing the change in surface texture from flat (powdery) to gloss (fluid). Once the powder has made the phase transition to fluid, only a minute or two is required for it to flow out and bond to the underlying surface, and for the rising surface tension to molecularly unite the encapsulating outer skin.
At that point, the job is done, so leaving it for a few minutes more is just to ensure that no cool spots exist among the remaining bullets that have not yet made the transition. This wet method that you show is excellent at ensuring uniformity of coating depth by enlisting the surface tension of the solvent ** to align the powder in orderly layers; good job.
* Lower cure temperature powder coats are used in the electronics business - in order to keep sensitive chips from overheating, for example.
** Ensure that if you are using acetone as solvent that you are working in a well-ventilated area; acetone fumes are toxic, as are the fumes given off by powder coating.
Acetone is less toxic than ethanol
@@ironmonkey1512 Acetone is toxic, and should be used in a well-ventilated area. While it is not HIGHLY toxic, heavy exposure can cause death, so why chance it? Ethanol kills scads of people - who drink it and drive - so it's not benign, to be sure.
Excellent Demo !
Excellent video. I will try. Cheers
You need taller sides on your wire baskets.
Yes sir, already done versions 2.0 with 2 inch sided.
Nice! Well done.
I have attempted this method a couple times and seems as though I'm doing it wrong. I'm trying to figure out the ratio for powder to acetone mix. I have little clumps (like unmixed brownie/cake batter) in my liquid that transfers to the bullets for a not smooth finish. Do I need more or less acetone for a situation like that?
Make sure you are using acetone and if it is clumping then either less powder or more acetone. It should look smooth as paint.
What are you loading for? Low pressure cartridges I’m having great luck with off the shelf spray paint, the kind that’s primer and paint in 1. 3-5 coats have all tested great for me in 38 Special in 4-6” barrels. Gonna year that stuff plus some tougher paints on bullet in rifle cartridges. Doesn’t seem to have effected accuracy and also dropped my bullet for 38 Special down to pure lead with just enough run for mold fill out. They’re not even leading with traditional lubes. Thought I would share. Powder coat has been tested to moderate rifle velocities that I’m aware of with good results though so good luck either way you go.
@@308dad8 I load 130g 9mm and 230g 45s. I don't shoot rifles more than once a year with factory ammo. I compete with pistols so I needed an economical way to male ammo. I have seen some spray paint videos but I hate to line up my bullets for coat. I cast around 10k rounds and coat them in one weekend. That almost enough for 1 year of competition shooting for me.
i discovered if you heat the bullets up about 80 to 100 degrees then do the dry tumble the powder sticks really well.
I tried that method but it was frustrating for me. First time I overheated too much and all the bullets stuck to each other. Next I was close but the coat was so thick it was hard to size. Simply my oven is not precise enough at low temperatures for this method to work for me. I'm glad it works for you and thank you for sharing.
@@reloadman3006 hahaha yeah I did the same thing. There was so much paint on them you couldn't see the lube groves anymore and they were all stuck together
Great tutorial!
Great video thanks man yes I'm well on my way 👍
Good, and thought out video
Great video, man. im just getting back into reloading after taking 10 years off. So, will this replace doing the wax or lube for cast bullets ? Im looking forward to trying this setup !!
Was this the Lee 356-120-TC 9mm bullet mold? If so would you still recommend?
great video. fyi to everyone. you don't need lanolin. cheap spray furniture polish works great. not the dollar store crap but the one at walmart.
The only reason I recommend lanolin oil spray is that it is just about guaranteed not to mess with powder in some weird way
Very informative! Talenti containers are more valuable than the gelato
Couple of questions. 1. What alloy are you using to cast your bullets? 2. Water quenching typically hardens the bullet alloy but doesn’t the powder coating provide a “hard” layer between the bullet alloy and the barrel? 3. What purpose does the lanolin/alcohol “lube” actually serve? You have already mixed a dry moly lube into the second coating not to mention the reason to PC the bullets in the first place is to not have to “lube” them.
1. I used a mix of whatever I can get my hands on, mostly ww plus a little soft lead. I would say all done, water quenched, probably around 14 hardness. 2. I'm not metallurgy expert by any means, but it seems to work for me so I'm sticking with it. I just don't know how "hard" the pc is vs what I can get away from doing. 3. Lanolin is just a very superficial lubing to aid in sizing. The bullets seem to go through the sizing die a lot easier, even when slightly oversized. This lube has nothing to do with them going through the barrel. And the amount of lanolin is minimal. Do I have to do it, no. Do I want to, yes. Also, the powder is not moly, its hexagonal boron nitride.
With experience you can tell what alloy you have with the thumbnail
Test. If it gouges easy then it's soft lead like plumber's lead or roof flashing. Soft lead can be alloyed with tin or old pewter to make it harder and water quenchable to harden it more.
It cannot be unalloyed to make it soft again. So soft lead should be reserved for black powder rifles and pistols. If you can't use it, trade it to someone who can.
Lead that can be gouged with some effort is probably wheel weights or something made out of wheel weight alloys like battery cable ends or fishing weights.
If it feels like lead but you can't scratch it with your thumbnail then it's probably lynotype or bar solder .
Soft lead for muzzle loaders, wheel weights for standard velocity pistols
Add a little more tin or lynotype for magnums and rifles. Water quench if you need it harder.
Thanks for the video.
John Davis Jax Fl
@@johnndavis7647
With powder coating your BHN isn't that important and even BHN 8 - 9 will still work fine. If you really want to know how hard the lead is your fingernail isn't going to tell you much. You need to use a expensive BHN tester or you can also use Staedtler art pencils to scratch it with great and accurate results..
Pencil Hardness BHN
6B 4-5
5B 7-8
4B 9
3B 10
2B 11-12
B 13
HB 14-15
F 16-18
H 20-22
2H 26-28
@@reloadman3006
I use whatever I can get my hands on from the local scrapyard and tire shops. Automotive lead wheel weights, lead plumbing pipe, automotive battery terminals, lead boat anchors and scuba diving weights etc etc etc. You can mix it yourself and get something hard enough to use if you use those art pencils and chart I posted. Even so, the BHN is not that important when powder coating like it is with traditional wax lubed bullets. The old timers sure wasted a lot of time and money trying to get it "just right". As "right" as it was it smoked liked crazy, released lead vapors into the air and was a PITA.
@@JohnDoeEagle1 thanks for the chart.
That info might come in handy one day.
Exact hardness is something I never worried about very much.
I mostly shoot muzzle loaded rifles and smoothbores muskets and cap and ball revolvers. I use soft lead in those.
When I'm not shootings black powder it's mostly standard velocity revolvers and autos
They are not too fussy about hardness if the lube is good.
. Wheel-weights work fine in those.
I would like to try owder coated cast bullets in rifles to see how close I can get to factory velocities without leading.
The fun never ends.
Thanks
Really looks good. Why the second coat? Your "first coat coverages" looked better than most dry methods I see in videos.
Honestly I have not tried shooting just one coat. I'm not sure if the coat is complete but I can cast some up and just try.
i think you can save alot of powder by doin this method .
👍
Thanks!
great work!
This looks like a breakthrough. Have not seen anyone else doing this. Did you learn it from an insider at a commercial bullet casting place?
Excellent work!
I used a product called Hi-Tec which is similar technique. I didn't like the way Hi-Tec smelled while fired from the gun, sort of burnt electronics smell. So I though, maybe I can use similar process with powder coat, and voila, after several failed attempts finally got it to work reliably. In Washington state I never could get the dry method to work, including all the hocus pocus stuff that supposed to aid it. Guess the humidity was a no go.
Just getting started, with powdercoating. I may have to give this a whirl. I was reading up on the HBN. Looks like it does an amazing job, on lubricity.
I saw it for sale, as a foundry mold spray. HOLD ON TO YOUR WALLET!!!
But, have you tried it as a mold release?
I haven't had many troubles with bullets releasing from the molds. I just scrubbed them clean with brake cleaner prior to casting and they seem to work great.
Beautiful
After watching this process, i think fewer rounds per basket will minimize the clumping.
would appreciate more details on the white powder you added to the coating.
Thank you...
There is a link in the video's description to Amazon where you can buy the white power and info about it.
@@reloadman3006 thank you.
the details i was looking for, was clearity of its purpose in the process, i dont quite understand what its doing...
@@TheSirRip I found this powder on some forum while just starting casting/coating. It is dry micro lubricant so I figured it may help so why not. Is it necessary, probably not, does it work for me, sure, my barrels show no signs of leading. It part of my system and since I get great results I keep adding it. To put that in perspective, you won't be able push your hand into a box of uncoated bullets very far but with my coated process you'll be able to touch the bottom.
@@reloadman3006 ok, kool to know. thanx again...
Another very well done video and #1 presentation..
Who's resizing dies are you using ?
Do you resize .45 colt or 45-70? If so what numbered dies are you using?
Any information would be greatly appreciated..thanks
Hey George, I'm using Lee's sizing die, 9mm in 0.356. I only shoot 9mm and this die seems to work in all my guns without any negative effects. I wish I could tell you about other calibers. There is a fellow youtuber that may have all the info you looking for, you should ask him. His youtube name is Andy79Z28
and he is casting numerous other calibers.
Thanks !!
Why would you powder coat bullets? What's the purpose?
i tried coating some 9mmpreheat bullets dry powder in bowl and shook around. too much powder stuck to them, and after in oven, they are thiick,cant even see the ribs on the ammo, ha lesson learned. and i ad about half cup powder, and just 20 bullets to try out hahaha.wow your way seems better. ima give it a try for sure.. let you know...thanks
Lee dippers come in many sizes. What size are you using??
great info
thanks
I noticed a PID on your oven, may I ask where you got it?
The usual place of wonder, Ebay! Although I'm sure Amazon has them too. You'll also will need relays to go with that as well. My oven has two heating coils so I got one for each.
Nice, less powder waist better stick! Have you added more powder & less acetone for just 1 coat process?
I tried but it seemed that only so much will stick to the bullet.
Does it need a double coat for sizing R is it just for Appearance
Double coating just makes sure the bullets are completely coated. You can still see some lead peeking after just one coat.
Awesome video brother great looking bullets. Is it required to lubricate prior to resizing. I use Lee Resizing die kit to resize my bullets whcih laot of people do.
I do a minimal lubing prior to sizing to take easy on my arm. It is not required.
nice video,, im going to try this this way.. i havent had any luck with powder coating..but you never said what deg you set your oven...
400°F
well done. i never realized it only takes a little powder coat powder. Do the bullets stink when they are in the oven? also i see you have a temp probe instead of using the oven dial. is temp critical? thx
The powder coat do smell a little bit. I don't really notice the smell until i leave the area and then reenter it. I do it in my garage with big door open. I utilize probe and pwm controller to have correct temperate as my oven has a really inaccurate one, usually overshot the 400 mark by a lot. I water quench my bullets so I really didn't want to get over 400 degrees and loose temper. I even heard that some ovens can melt the bullets if they overshoot a lot. Temperature wise, for the most part, you just need to reach 400 for a few minutes so the powder will liquefy completely. Last tip, never use oven for powder coating and food, powder coat oven for powder coating only.
Thanks for the reply.
@@reloadman3006 Was just watching a video by elvis ammo. He bakes at 275 for 15 - 20 minutes. Was going to try that next time I cast up a bunch, but I like your method. Gonna give it a try. Maybe one batch at 400 and the second at 275.
@@bradbauman7594 Let us know. My powder "flash" point is at 400 so that's why I stick with it, and it seems to work as I get no leading on any of my guns.
@@reloadman3006 Just bought a toaster oven from walmart.Set it to 400 degrees and it started to melt the bullets. Very inaccurate like you said.
Great video!!.. Boron Nitride.... Can normal black graphite powder be used instead?
I don't know. I never tried it. I have seen someone else use the BN and I thought I try it, worked great for me. Make sure if you use graphite that there wouldn't be any gaseous undesirables you may be breathing.
Great Video! I have a couple of questions. What CC size is that lee powder scooper you using to measure your powder paint? Also, have you tried the process without the Boron Nitride? Thanks in advance!
The scoop is 1.6cc size. I believe you could successfully do it without the white powder, many people have, but I know that it works for me so I continue to use it.
@@reloadman3006 so 0.9 cc total?
@@HARLEY05FLHT Sorry, if it is hard to hear, it is 2.4 total, as I use 1.6cc lee dipper.
👍👍 i like thia method i will try it
That's pretty cool. Hi-tek makes a coating exactly like that. Have you ran the numbers to see which way would be cheaper?
I used to use Hi-Tek but it produced a weird "burnt electronic" smell when shot so I've switched to powder coating. I think they would be both about same costwise.
What is the reason for powder coating bullets? I've been getting interested in reloading and just curious. It looks great btw
You can't shoot raw lead through your barrels. It will coat the inside of your barrel making it smaller and small to the point it will be dangerous. You have to either lube the bullets with grease (hence the grease ring on the base) or coat them. Grease is old school as it smokes like a locomotive when shot and it is not allowed on all indoor ranges. Coating makes no smoke at all, clean shooting, no lead deposits and allowed to be shot anywhere. Casting and coating is the way to go.
Great job ... I need some .. got a new subscriber
I must have missed something what is the purpose of the powder coating a bullet ?
@@regulator45331 To eliminate the need for greasing/lubing the raw lead bullets. No more huge cloud of smoke when shooting, eliminated leading of your barrels, can get away with using somewhat softer lead.
Great video! So, after powder coating you only resize no need to lubricate because of the powder coating is this correct ?
Correct. Powder coating replaces traditional bullet lubes.
just be clear, the boron you are using is ULTRA FINE,? i used ultra PURE, and it wrinkled the finish coating.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1R5LM0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@reloadman3006 thank you.
Is this comperable to commercial coated bullets? No lube needed and can be fired at higher velocities?
This is similar to HT coated bullets. You should still load for lead bullet velocities rather than FMJ. No lube needed to fire these.
@@reloadman3006actual high tech has seen their bullets pushed over 2000fps
What lead alloy do you use?
What diameter do you cast to ?.401?
What diam is the bullet after coating?
I use mainly ww scrap lead for 9s and soft/ww mix for 45s. I cast using lee molds. Once coated I size 9s to .356 and 45s to .451. Those diameters seem to work best in all my guns.
@@reloadman3006 thanks for the video and comment s
I plan on casting 10mm
What was the “ White Powder” added with the last Wet coat? “Micro??”
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1R5LM0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for sharing your method. I'll definitely be trying this! Have you ever tried a load without the white powder? Do you notice a difference? Thanks!
I have always used the white powder myself. However, there are many people powder coating without it and not having any problems. The only thing I have noticed is that if you try to push your finger into a box of uncoated lead bullets it's almost impossible, with my coating, its almost effortless. Still, I cannot 100% attest that is because the powder.