I did my first Whitetail hide following each step exactly. Watched this video as I completed each step. The deer pelt turned out beautiful. Thank you so much. Great job. Very very helpful.
I didn’t go through all the comments and might be repetitious. As a trapper and fur handler, you do a nice, realistic job with this. I haven’t tried this product but will. A couple pointers: the fleshing board is available at trapping supplies or a quick search on FB or internet have lots of plans. I’ve never used an ulu knife I prefer traditional fleshing tools with dull and sharp sides. I also use c-clamp vice grips to grip the top of the hide on the board. They work well with the board. When you’re pre-breaking, try a softball or volleyball under the hide. Works well. Also, the fleshing board is also a good tool to work the hide. Nice job instructing. It’s nice to see use and preservation of entire game animals.
Thank you for the comments and tips! Yes, have clips too to hold the hide on the beam. Really good tip on the softball or volleyball under the hide - do you roll the hide around it and work it? Any DIY tips on breaking are welcome - it's a lot of elbow grease.
First time tanner here. Thank you so much for taking the time to post this! I found a gorgeous bobcat my way to work last week (she had been hit by a car just hours before) and I couldn't stand to see her rot. I scooped her up and gave her a proper burial after taking the hide. I was so afraid I wouldn't be able to save the pelt, but with your introductions and some NuTan, she came out just as beautiful as ever. Please keep posting videos. This was great!!!
Thank you. I've watched this video A BUNCH of times. I was given a buffalo hide and had never done anything like this before. This gave me the confidence to go for it. The steps were clear and I'm working my way through the project watching. I have my Nu Tan ready to go. Thank you again!
We are happy to hear the video is helpful. Tip on the Buffalo hide, be sure to use an angle grinder with a coarse grit to shave it. These hides are so thick and so large, getting it thin will help NuTan penetrate better and make breaking easier - to help keep it soft.
@@TanningYourHide mine has been sitting stretched on the makeshift rack I made for the last year, I need to rehydrate and finish the process, that's why I looked for this 😅
I think I by me a jug of nu tan and try it dont look like i too hard to do ..I have been using the trapper formula and it works real nice ex video you got a new Sub
If im out in the field on a group hunt, can i put the hide in a cooler with ice in like a trash bag to keep it in good condition. Or would it be better to drive it home to stick in the freezer in a trashbag.
We answered this off-line, but will also reply here so others can see it. Ideal is to get the hide frozen as soon as it is removed and cooled. If this is not possible, you can flesh the hide - get as much meat, fat and membrane off as you can. Then heavily salt it to draw out the moisture. Let this sit overnight, the next day, shake the old salt off and re-salt with fresh salt for 12-24 hours. Then shake off and hang the hide to finish drying (you can fold it to make it easier to pack out).
Good question. Yes, when making buckskin, apply the "normal" amount of NuTan to the flesh side. Let this soak in for 1-2 hours, then fold flesh to flesh and apply a "thin" layer of NuTan to the de-haired side. Fold the hide again and put in a plastic bag overnight. The next day, open and hang. Be sure to start working the hide when it is semi-dry to keep it soft. Thank you.
Awesome detailed video. I just ordered the nutan for my buck hide I shot and this really helped. I've done coyotes before but used other products so time to try something new. Thanks for sharing your talent
excellent video. i have tanned a few deer hides using ammonium alum. do you sell that also. but i am goi g to order nutan and try that also. my hides have gotten better every time. but surely not as good as yours. thanks again.
If there is excess soap, you can give the hide a quick rinse under fresh, cool running water. The skin should be damp, not dripping wet, prior to applying NuTan. If there is too much water, the tan will be diluted, if the hide is too dry, NuTan will not penetrate properly. Thank you.
Good questions. There are different perceptions on using iodine vs. non-iodized salt in tanning. The concern has been that iodine may stain the hide/skin, however, there is so little amount of iodine in salt, that this insignificant amount will not cause any discoloration. Yes, table and canning/pickling salt are fine to use. The ones to avoid are rock salt - because the crystals are too large to break down, and any salt that has a high mineral content - such as feed store salt. The minerals added to salt can discolor the hide/skin.
@@katelync8495 You can stake the hide. There are pros and cons of doing so. It will dry flat, but often stiffer as you aren't able to work and stretch it as much. If you choose to stake it, do it after NuTan has been applied since the hide needs to be folded.
I used angle grinder with 85 grit. Be careful it is aggressive especially at first before you grt a little build up on disc. After it got "dirty" it was easier.
After the hide is fleshed and salted, you can let it sit flat overnight in a cool, dry area (not in the sun). The salt will absorb the moisture and fluids from the hide. The next day, if the salt is still wet, shake it off and apply a new layer. Let this sit overnight again and shake off the next day. Then you can go to the rehydration step or hang the hide to completely dry and finish the tanning process later. The hide will keep this way.
I have an elk hide that I have fleshed, removed the hair (I just want to make leather), pickled and have had it soaking in cold water (changed out every other day) for 2 months now. I have a gallon of NuTan on hand. Do I still have to salt this (no hair remember) or can I drain it and then use the NuTan solution on it?
@@rileywilson6123 Great question! This video and process is geared toward the 1st time tanner, so we simplified the process to make it easier. We made it so the pH is pre-adjusted and doesn't need to be tested. The vinegar pickle bath used here is a weak pickle, so the pH will run aprox. 2.5-3.0 which is in-line for NuTan. Thus, the reason for the shorter soak time. You are correct, if another stronger acid is being used (which you can do), then the pH would need to adjusted accordingly before apply the tan. Thank you for watching!
@hondosmith3172 - Thank you for the feedback! Yes, this one is a bit long. It is really geared towards the first time tanner wanting to know everything. You can always fast forward to certain steps. We do have additional videos in the works that will be shorter.
I think my hide took to long to dry I came back from two day elk hunt it is damp and I think it started to mold? A thing I can do this is after nu tan applied
Never mind it was not mold just excess oils turned white in a dot pattern. It's all dry now and looks great just need to break it more to soften. This is my second hide and I was concerned my first didn't have enough nu tan but I'm sure I put to much on second so I think my next one should be perfect.....
For sure! A pressure washer will strip the flesh and membrane while also cleaning some of the blood off. Just be careful not to get the water pressure too high so it won't go through to the hair follicles.
Hi! Thank you for this excellent video. I’m currently trying your method out. Did my first salt yesterday, today I’m knocking off the wet and re-salting those areas. Question- how long do I let the second coat of salt sit? And then after that will it be ready for rehydration? Thank you in advance. I really appreciate the art and hard work of what you do! You really do make it look easy. It’s definitely not lol.
Rusty, thank you for watching! You can let the second salting sit overnight or until it is no longer moist (not drawing out any more fluids). Then proceed to the rehydration bath.
Yes, the salt is still drawing the moisture/fluids out, so shake off the damp salt and reapply a new layer. Be generous with the salt, approx. 1/2 inch thick.
Jassam, what type of tan are you using? NuTan won't make the skin tear. Give us a call and we can go over the process and what type of pickle was used. It could be a pH issue.
Buddy can you please do a at home tanning process video for pelts Please and a bear possibly . Thank you Im trying to stop sending pelts away I wanna do them myself I think
For the rehydration and pickle baths you will mix enough to completely cover the skins - so they move around freely. See the video (short) on our channel to determine the amount of NuTan needed for the specific animal hide or skin you are tanning.
Yes, after NuTan is applied and the hide is folded for 24 hours, it will be damp. Let it hang until it is semi-dry, then start working it to break the fibers and keep it soft.
@@TanningYourHide So after applying the tanning Solution, i can smoke the hide as normal? ive been trying to figure this question out for quite some time now and i got alot of skins im waiting on doing until i figure out that answer =]
It depends what pickle you are using. If using the vinegar pickle suggested here, you do not need to adjust the pH. If you are using an acid pickle, yes, bring the pH up to 4.0-4.3 prior to applying NuTan.
How many fur bearer pelts can you do at one time in the method that you are using before you have to a bigger batch for each set? I have several coyotes and raccoons along with others. So I was just wondering. Thank you.
Frank, the rehydration and pickle baths can be make to hold several skins - just depending upon how large of a soak tank you have. We have a chart with the directions that gives the estimated amount of NuTan needed to treat each type of skin. For example, a 32 oz (quart) bottle of NuTan will treat 3-4 medium life size coyote skins or 5-6 medium life size raccoon skins. Will need more NuTan if they are larger and less if they are smaller. Thank you!
Your a legend thanks for the tips my guy...liked, I'm in the middle of one atm, got it fleshed about to salt. Last one was a fail, hoping for better results this time around 😅
Hey so my hide went from the freezer to my fleshing bean 24hrs later. It fleshed out really nice and I slated the hide 24hrs brushed off the salt and repeated the salting for another 24 hrs. Some Little patches of hair came off I noticed while putting it in the rehydration bath is this normal? I'm waiting for the pickling bath to cool down and then I'm gonna proceed to the further steps
Sorry for the late reply. Some hair coming out could be normal shed. However, significant slippage (down to the bare skin) is caused by bacteria. Reasons for bacteria growing could be: *if the hide was not skinned right away, *not fleshed/salted or frozen.
@Advanced Tanning Solutions gotcha. Thanks for the response man. I had a house fire right at the time I was breaking it in and lost the hide. On the plus side my brother shot a buck and I took his hide so I got a second chance
Skins are stretched on frames or boarded to prevent shrinkage while they are drying for storage. People do this when they are running a line or hunting too much to have time to process the skins. After the season is over they process them in batches. This method never lets the hides dry out entirely so you don't have to worry about them shrinking until it's already time to break the hide.
Good answer @Adrian Ricker. To add to that, for our process (starting with a raw/green hide), we find that fleshing hides (and fur skins) on a hard surface is most effective. And salting requires the hide be laid flat so the salt doesn't fall off. Of course they need to free of the frame for the rehydration and pickle baths. Once the NuTan is applied, the hide needs to be folded flesh side to flesh side so the tan can activate. Staking or stretching on a frame during the drying process can be done - Pro: the hide will dry flat, Con: you aren't able to work it as much to keep it soft and pliable, so it will dry stiffer.
@@TanningYourHide thanks, there really isnt a lot of information out there about this stuff, so your videos have been really helpful. Im rehydrating my hide now.
Once you remove the hide from the pickle bath, drain and dry it until it is damp. If the hide is too wet, the blade will just glide over the flesh. The drying time will depend upon the thickness of the hide. No, you do not rinse it after pulling it from the pickle.
I have a few questions, not sure if anyone can help me out here. I've done a few bears recently.When i flesh the hides, I get the flesh to the "Blue" before i even pickle the hide. Is it okay to get to the "blue" of the hide before the pickling process? I spend ALOT of time fleshing by hand with a small ULU. I was also curious, If i use this "nutan" tanning agent, can i still smoke the hide, or is there a need to? Normally i smoke my hides so that way if they get wet i dont need to re break them. Thanks in advance!
Yes, it is OK to get to the blue when fleshing the bear skins. The concern though is working for a while on raws skins - to avoid bacteria growth, we recommend the skins should be salted right away. Then you can rehydrate and flesh/shave prior to pickling OR after pickling. Yes, NuTan tanned hides can be smoked to waterproof them. Thank you!
Using Nutan, is it necessary to neutralize the hide after pickling? I have heard lots of places saying that it is necessary, but I am not sure. I am tanning an elk hide using this method, and I want to make sure I do it right the first time.
Isaiah, the directions we have for the pickle in this process, the pH is already pre-adjusted for accepting the NuTan. So you do not need to adjust it.
I'm a bit confused with the pickling process. You say it sets the fur. And then its better for shaving. Does this mean I should pass on pickling for a hair on pelt?
We recommend you pickle whether it is a hide with hair, or a skin with fur. Yes, pickling helps to set the hair/fur and by shaving we mean thinning the flesh side after pickling (not shaving the hair/fur off). Having a thinner hide or skin, will help the tan to penetrate better, and also keep it softer at the end of the process. Fur skins are thinner than hides so they will not require as much shaving as a deer or elk that have thicker areas (like the neck and rump).
@@TanningYourHide Thank you for clarifying that. I am doing 2 deer pelts currently. I was under the impression shaving meant to remove all hair. I understand now shaving means to thin the hide. This is my first time doing anything like this. This video has been amazing, thank you!
If I want to go from fleshing straight to pickle is it necessary to Salt dry it and rehydrate? Is there a way to Salt it in one step following the flashing then move forward to pickle, shaving, and tanning?
Yes, after fleshing, a fresh hide can be put in a salt bath, use 1 lb of salt per gallon of water. This will wash out any blood, dirt and body fluids. Leave the hide in the salt bath for several hours agitating it periodically. Then it can go into the pickle bath.
I have a bottle of NuTan on the way. What vinegar strength do you recommend for the pickling process? I got a few jugs of regular (low percentage) distilled white vinegar from Walmart.
The vinegar in the pickle is based on normal household vinegar with a 5% acidity level. This equates to 1 1/4 cups per gallon. If the acidity level is different, adjust the amount accordingly.
what happens if you get the hide wet again? I've tanned some small things and when I got them wet they get fleshy again until it dries back into leather. is that normal? and if so how do i make it water resistant?
Yes, getting the hide wet will make it pliable again. You may need to re-break it though so it doesn't dry stiff. The process of waterproofing leather is pretty extensive and usually done at multiple stages of the tanning process. Feel free to call us to discuss this more.
Being someone who apprenticed years to learn the trade and had to sign contracts to not reveal secrets or be sued shame on all the taxidermist that tell our secrets that alot of us had to put in blood sweat tears and $ into our carries. TH-cam taxidermist should be sued
Thank you for your comment. This is an interesting view. We are only showing tanning here, but that is what is so special about Dale Knobloch, our founder. He is a pioneer in the industry (45+ years) and has always shared his knowledge of taxidermy, sculpting and tanning to those who were as passionate about it as he is. "If you have knowledge, let others light their candle in it" - Margaret Fuller
I did my first Whitetail hide following each step exactly. Watched this video as I completed each step. The deer pelt turned out beautiful. Thank you so much. Great job. Very very helpful.
We are happy to hear this was helpful!
I didn’t go through all the comments and might be repetitious. As a trapper and fur handler, you do a nice, realistic job with this. I haven’t tried this product but will. A couple pointers: the fleshing board is available at trapping supplies or a quick search on FB or internet have lots of plans. I’ve never used an ulu knife I prefer traditional fleshing tools with dull and sharp sides. I also use c-clamp vice grips to grip the top of the hide on the board. They work well with the board. When you’re pre-breaking, try a softball or volleyball under the hide. Works well. Also, the fleshing board is also a good tool to work the hide. Nice job instructing. It’s nice to see use and preservation of entire game animals.
Thank you for the comments and tips! Yes, have clips too to hold the hide on the beam. Really good tip on the softball or volleyball under the hide - do you roll the hide around it and work it? Any DIY tips on breaking are welcome - it's a lot of elbow grease.
@@TanningYourHide I kneel on top of it and stretch the hide by spreading my legs. Then work it over the beam or a fence post.
You did an awesome job of explaining each step clearly! Thanks for all your work on this video!
Thank you Brad! Yes, Rick does a great job "teaching". Glad it was helpful.
Agreed! Thanks for the step-by-step. Time-lapse and cut-to's are appreciated.
That was really a professional, well planned out, and informative video. Super helpful. I will fall back on this as my new method for sure!
Roger, glad it was helpful for you!
First time tanner here. Thank you so much for taking the time to post this!
I found a gorgeous bobcat my way to work last week (she had been hit by a car just hours before) and I couldn't stand to see her rot. I scooped her up and gave her a proper burial after taking the hide. I was so afraid I wouldn't be able to save the pelt, but with your introductions and some NuTan, she came out just as beautiful as ever. Please keep posting videos. This was great!!!
We are thrilled you saved the hide/fur skin and tanned it!
Amazing. 1st successful hide with many more to come. Best video by far.
Thrilled it was helpful for you.
Thanks, your instruction is perfect for beginners.
Happy to hear it was helpful!
Thank you. I've watched this video A BUNCH of times. I was given a buffalo hide and had never done anything like this before. This gave me the confidence to go for it. The steps were clear and I'm working my way through the project watching. I have my Nu Tan ready to go. Thank you again!
We are happy to hear the video is helpful. Tip on the Buffalo hide, be sure to use an angle grinder with a coarse grit to shave it. These hides are so thick and so large, getting it thin will help NuTan penetrate better and make breaking easier - to help keep it soft.
Great video, do you have a recommendation on the brush he used at the end of the video?
A dog brush with soft bristles on one side and wire on the other!
Awesome video.imworingbon a beaver hide.
So helpful. Thank you so much. Definitely gives me the confidence to tackle the one I have in the freezer
Happy to hear it was helpful! Share photos of your tanned deer hide.
You used way more salt than me on my first hide. Wish I'd found this video earlier!
A thick layer of salt is key for sure. You'll be ready for the next hide!
@@TanningYourHide great video! I subscribed!
@@TanningYourHide mine has been sitting stretched on the makeshift rack I made for the last year, I need to rehydrate and finish the process, that's why I looked for this 😅
I think I by me a jug of nu tan and try it dont look like i too hard to do ..I have been using the trapper formula and it works real nice ex video you got a new Sub
Awesome video! Very helpful!
Happy to hear it was helpful - thank you for sharing!
If im out in the field on a group hunt, can i put the hide in a cooler with ice in like a trash bag to keep it in good condition. Or would it be better to drive it home to stick in the freezer in a trashbag.
We answered this off-line, but will also reply here so others can see it. Ideal is to get the hide frozen as soon as it is removed and cooled. If this is not possible, you can flesh the hide - get as much meat, fat and membrane off as you can. Then heavily salt it to draw out the moisture. Let this sit overnight, the next day, shake the old salt off and re-salt with fresh salt for 12-24 hours. Then shake off and hang the hide to finish drying (you can fold it to make it easier to pack out).
Hello. If you remove all the hair do you put the NuTan on both sides?
Good question. Yes, when making buckskin, apply the "normal" amount of NuTan to the flesh side. Let this soak in for 1-2 hours, then fold flesh to flesh and apply a "thin" layer of NuTan to the de-haired side.
Fold the hide again and put in a plastic bag overnight. The next day, open and hang. Be sure to start working the hide when it is semi-dry to keep it soft. Thank you.
Awesome detailed video. I just ordered the nutan for my buck hide I shot and this really helped. I've done coyotes before but used other products so time to try something new. Thanks for sharing your talent
Glad the video was helpful!
Great video, very instructional and you explain every step well.
Thank you for watching!
excellent video. i have tanned a few deer hides using ammonium alum. do you sell that also. but i am goi g to order nutan and try that also. my hides have gotten better every time. but surely not as good as yours. thanks again.
Thank you for watching! No, we do not carry ammonium alum. I am sure your hides will be just as nice using NuTan!
Awesome step by step video. Thanks for posting! A video on tanning a case skinned coyote would be fantastic if you get time to get around to that.
Glad you liked it! In the process of creating additional videos for case (tubed) skinned tanning.
@@TanningYourHide Fantastic!
How long do I need to do the pickle soak for a large squirrel?
After cleaning it with the dawn dish soap solution, do you rinse the hide off in clean water? And do let the hide dry out for any amount of time?
If there is excess soap, you can give the hide a quick rinse under fresh, cool running water.
The skin should be damp, not dripping wet, prior to applying NuTan.
If there is too much water, the tan will be diluted, if the hide is too dry, NuTan will not penetrate properly. Thank you.
For the rehydrating bath and pickling bath do you use iodized or non-iodized salt? Can you use canning & pickling salt?
Good questions. There are different perceptions on using iodine vs. non-iodized salt in tanning. The concern has been that iodine may stain the hide/skin, however, there is so little amount of iodine in salt, that this insignificant amount will not cause any discoloration.
Yes, table and canning/pickling salt are fine to use. The ones to avoid are rock salt - because the crystals are too large to break down, and any salt that has a high mineral content - such as feed store salt. The minerals added to salt can discolor the hide/skin.
@@TanningYourHide do you have to make a fresh pickle solution each day? I have seen things that talk about pH and am unsure how it works
@@TanningYourHideAlso, do you tie the hide to stretch it? If so, at what point do you tie it up for stretching?
@@katelync8495 You can stake the hide. There are pros and cons of doing so. It will dry flat, but often stiffer as you aren't able to work and stretch it as much.
If you choose to stake it, do it after NuTan has been applied since the hide needs to be folded.
For that angle grinder sanding pad what grit of fine sandpaper do you us for thinning out the hide?
I used angle grinder with 85 grit. Be careful it is aggressive especially at first before you grt a little build up on disc. After it got "dirty" it was easier.
My dear friend, when you clean the skin and put salt on it, do you fold it or put it in the sun?
After the hide is fleshed and salted, you can let it sit flat overnight in a cool, dry area (not in the sun). The salt will absorb the moisture and fluids from the hide. The next day, if the salt is still wet, shake it off and apply a new layer. Let this sit overnight again and shake off the next day. Then you can go to the rehydration step or hang the hide to completely dry and finish the tanning process later.
The hide will keep this way.
Great video
Glad you found it useful!
Thawing out the hide. Just sit out or can you put it in a cold salt water bath? And if so what the mixture. Any advice would help.
If the hide is rolled up with the hair facing out, it is best to thaw it in 1 lb of salt per gallon of water. Open up the hide as it thaws.
I have an elk hide that I have fleshed, removed the hair (I just want to make leather), pickled and have had it soaking in cold water (changed out every other day) for 2 months now. I have a gallon of NuTan on hand. Do I still have to salt this (no hair remember) or can I drain it and then use the NuTan solution on it?
Sorry if I’m mistaken but don’t you want to neutralize the hide after the pickle bath? Thanks great video
Or is that just if your using a stronger pickle like citric acid or safetee acid or something of that nature? thanks
@@rileywilson6123 Great question! This video and process is geared toward the 1st time tanner, so we simplified the process to make it easier. We made it so the pH is pre-adjusted and doesn't need to be tested. The vinegar pickle bath used here is a weak pickle, so the pH will run aprox. 2.5-3.0 which is in-line for NuTan. Thus, the reason for the shorter soak time.
You are correct, if another stronger acid is being used (which you can do), then the pH would need to adjusted accordingly before apply the tan. Thank you for watching!
extremely informative. thank you. Keep up the Great work
Happy the video was helpful for you!
Is it better to use fine salt like you do or is course salt, like barn salt, alright?
Use fine salt (table or canning salt) as coarse salt (like rock salt) is too large and will not break down all the way.
Thank for the info
Dude
You
Are
Killing
Me
This whole video contains 10 minutes of info at most.
Also, a script is free. Write it and read it
@hondosmith3172 - Thank you for the feedback! Yes, this one is a bit long. It is really geared towards the first time tanner wanting to know everything. You can always fast forward to certain steps.
We do have additional videos in the works that will be shorter.
I think my hide took to long to dry I came back from two day elk hunt it is damp and I think it started to mold? A thing I can do this is after nu tan applied
Never mind it was not mold just excess oils turned white in a dot pattern. It's all dry now and looks great just need to break it more to soften. This is my second hide and I was concerned my first didn't have enough nu tan but I'm sure I put to much on second so I think my next one should be perfect.....
you can also use a pressure washer for fleshing. awesome video!
For sure! A pressure washer will strip the flesh and membrane while also cleaning some of the blood off. Just be careful not to get the water pressure too high so it won't go through to the hair follicles.
@@infoinfo3050 yeah they work good i only use them on big game because it takes to long otherwise.
Hi! Thank you for this excellent video. I’m currently trying your method out. Did my first salt yesterday, today I’m knocking off the wet and re-salting those areas. Question- how long do I let the second coat of salt sit? And then after that will it be ready for rehydration? Thank you in advance. I really appreciate the art and hard work of what you do! You really do make it look easy. It’s definitely not lol.
Rusty, thank you for watching! You can let the second salting sit overnight or until it is no longer moist (not drawing out any more fluids). Then proceed to the rehydration bath.
Do you put the tanning solution on a wet hide or dry hide?
NuTan is applied to a hide that is damp. After it has been fleshed, salted, rehydrated and pickled.
My hide is still really wet after salt setting on it for over 24 hours. Should I dump the salt and resalt it?
Yes, the salt is still drawing the moisture/fluids out, so shake off the damp salt and reapply a new layer. Be generous with the salt, approx. 1/2 inch thick.
Hello, my friend, when I tan the skin, it tears after several months. Why what should I do so that the skin does not tear in the future?
Jassam, what type of tan are you using? NuTan won't make the skin tear. Give us a call and we can go over the process and what type of pickle was used. It could be a pH issue.
How did Native Americans do it I don’t think they had bags of salt
Buddy can you please do a at home tanning process video for pelts Please and a bear possibly . Thank you Im trying to stop sending pelts away I wanna do them myself I think
Yes! Next up tanning a raccoon skin.
What are the ratios when doing a Bob cat or beaver?
For the rehydration and pickle baths you will mix enough to completely cover the skins - so they move around freely.
See the video (short) on our channel to determine the amount of NuTan needed for the specific animal hide or skin you are tanning.
When you let it out to dry after folding it for 24 hour is the solution still wet?
Yes, after NuTan is applied and the hide is folded for 24 hours, it will be damp. Let it hang until it is semi-dry, then start working it to break the fibers and keep it soft.
Great video, thank you. I'm just tanning my first (roe deer) hide
Thank you for watching! Excited you are tanning your first hide!
Do these need to still be smoked to be waterproof
NuTan does not waterproof the hide, so yes, smoking it or applying a waterproofer would need to be done.
@@TanningYourHide So after applying the tanning Solution, i can smoke the hide as normal? ive been trying to figure this question out for quite some time now and i got alot of skins im waiting on doing until i figure out that answer =]
@@addisonlastname7756 Yes, you can smoke a hide tanned with NuTan.
Thanks for the helpfull video, thinking myself of starting shoulder mounting deer so tanning is important for me, Great job on the video!👏👏
Thank you and glad it was helpful.
Can you do a wolf skin tutorial
Yes, we will add that one to our list! In the meantime, if you have questions, feel free to reach out to us.
Do you neutralize after pickle?
It depends what pickle you are using. If using the vinegar pickle suggested here, you do not need to adjust the pH. If you are using an acid pickle, yes, bring the pH up to 4.0-4.3 prior to applying NuTan.
Thank you I'm just using this video
How many fur bearer pelts can you do at one time in the method that you are using before you have to a bigger batch for each set? I have several coyotes and raccoons along with others. So I was just wondering.
Thank you.
Frank, the rehydration and pickle baths can be make to hold several skins - just depending upon how large of a soak tank you have. We have a chart with the directions that gives the estimated amount of NuTan needed to treat each type of skin. For example, a 32 oz (quart) bottle of NuTan will treat 3-4 medium life size coyote skins or 5-6 medium life size raccoon skins. Will need more NuTan if they are larger and less if they are smaller. Thank you!
Your a legend thanks for the tips my guy...liked, I'm in the middle of one atm, got it fleshed about to salt. Last one was a fail, hoping for better results this time around 😅
Thank you - Let us know if you have questions!
Great video brother. What kind of scraper are you using? I'm unfamiliar with that type, but need one!
It is an Ulu fleshing knife. We have them on our website.
Ty this was done so well loved the whole thing!!! New subscriber!
Wish I had watched this earlier for that scoring tip. Thank you.
Something to try on the next hide. :)
Hey so my hide went from the freezer to my fleshing bean 24hrs later. It fleshed out really nice and I slated the hide 24hrs brushed off the salt and repeated the salting for another 24 hrs. Some Little patches of hair came off I noticed while putting it in the rehydration bath is this normal? I'm waiting for the pickling bath to cool down and then I'm gonna proceed to the further steps
Sorry for the late reply. Some hair coming out could be normal shed. However, significant slippage (down to the bare skin) is caused by bacteria. Reasons for bacteria growing could be: *if the hide was not skinned right away, *not fleshed/salted or frozen.
@Advanced Tanning Solutions gotcha. Thanks for the response man. I had a house fire right at the time I was breaking it in and lost the hide. On the plus side my brother shot a buck and I took his hide so I got a second chance
@@MINIHAHA1 Oh no! We are sorry to hear that and glad that you (and no one else) were not injured. Also glad you have another hide to tan.
@@TanningYourHide thanks man I appreciate it
I have watched other videos where the hides are stretched and strung up on frames, with this process is that not required? If so why not?
Skins are stretched on frames or boarded to prevent shrinkage while they are drying for storage. People do this when they are running a line or hunting too much to have time to process the skins. After the season is over they process them in batches.
This method never lets the hides dry out entirely so you don't have to worry about them shrinking until it's already time to break the hide.
@@adrianricker thank you!
Good answer @Adrian Ricker. To add to that, for our process (starting with a raw/green hide), we find that fleshing hides (and fur skins) on a hard surface is most effective. And salting requires the hide be laid flat so the salt doesn't fall off. Of course they need to free of the frame for the rehydration and pickle baths. Once the NuTan is applied, the hide needs to be folded flesh side to flesh side so the tan can activate.
Staking or stretching on a frame during the drying process can be done - Pro: the hide will dry flat, Con: you aren't able to work it as much to keep it soft and pliable, so it will dry stiffer.
@@TanningYourHide thanks, there really isnt a lot of information out there about this stuff, so your videos have been really helpful. Im rehydrating my hide now.
How long do you let hide dry inbetween pickling and shaving? How long until it gets too dry? Do you rinse off the pickling solution?
Once you remove the hide from the pickle bath, drain and dry it until it is damp. If the hide is too wet, the blade will just glide over the flesh. The drying time will depend upon the thickness of the hide.
No, you do not rinse it after pulling it from the pickle.
I have a few questions, not sure if anyone can help me out here. I've done a few bears recently.When i flesh the hides, I get the flesh to the "Blue" before i even pickle the hide. Is it okay to get to the "blue" of the hide before the pickling process? I spend ALOT of time fleshing by hand with a small ULU. I was also curious, If i use this "nutan" tanning agent, can i still smoke the hide, or is there a need to? Normally i smoke my hides so that way if they get wet i dont need to re break them. Thanks in advance!
Yes, it is OK to get to the blue when fleshing the bear skins. The concern though is working for a while on raws skins - to avoid bacteria growth, we recommend the skins should be salted right away. Then you can rehydrate and flesh/shave prior to pickling OR after pickling.
Yes, NuTan tanned hides can be smoked to waterproof them. Thank you!
Awesome much appreciated thank you for your knowledge and now I can pull the trigger and buy a few gallons.. lots of hides to do =]
@@addisonlastname7756 Happy to help anytime.
Using Nutan, is it necessary to neutralize the hide after pickling? I have heard lots of places saying that it is necessary, but I am not sure. I am tanning an elk hide using this method, and I want to make sure I do it right the first time.
Isaiah, the directions we have for the pickle in this process, the pH is already pre-adjusted for accepting the NuTan. So you do not need to adjust it.
I'm a bit confused with the pickling process. You say it sets the fur. And then its better for shaving. Does this mean I should pass on pickling for a hair on pelt?
We recommend you pickle whether it is a hide with hair, or a skin with fur. Yes, pickling helps to set the hair/fur and by shaving we mean thinning the flesh side after pickling (not shaving the hair/fur off).
Having a thinner hide or skin, will help the tan to penetrate better, and also keep it softer at the end of the process. Fur skins are thinner than hides so they will not require as much shaving as a deer or elk that have thicker areas (like the neck and rump).
@@TanningYourHide Thank you for clarifying that. I am doing 2 deer pelts currently. I was under the impression shaving meant to remove all hair. I understand now shaving means to thin the hide. This is my first time doing anything like this. This video has been amazing, thank you!
@@kreykesfarms1467 No worries, we understand that the process can be daunting the first time.
If I want to go from fleshing straight to pickle is it necessary to Salt dry it and rehydrate? Is there a way to Salt it in one step following the flashing then move forward to pickle, shaving, and tanning?
Yes, after fleshing, a fresh hide can be put in a salt bath, use 1 lb of salt per gallon of water. This will wash out any blood, dirt and body fluids. Leave the hide in the salt bath for several hours agitating it periodically. Then it can go into the pickle bath.
Could you use hydrogen peroxide instead of bleach in the dehydration phase?
I have a bottle of NuTan on the way. What vinegar strength do you recommend for the pickling process? I got a few jugs of regular (low percentage) distilled white vinegar from Walmart.
The vinegar in the pickle is based on normal household vinegar with a 5% acidity level. This equates to 1 1/4 cups per gallon. If the acidity level is different, adjust the amount accordingly.
Im extremely curious about NuTan, is it a type of crome tan?
NuTan is not a chrome tan. It is a combination of tanning resigns and polymers plus a softening oil.
what happens if you get the hide wet again? I've tanned some small things and when I got them wet they get fleshy again until it dries back into leather. is that normal? and if so how do i make it water resistant?
Yes, getting the hide wet will make it pliable again. You may need to re-break it though so it doesn't dry stiff. The process of waterproofing leather is pretty extensive and usually done at multiple stages of the tanning process. Feel free to call us to discuss this more.
@@TanningYourHide Thanks a bunch! for a beginner what fleshing tool would you suggest?
@@jacksonwilhelm2420 Our Ulu hide fleshing/shaving knife works well for all experience levels.
@@jacksonwilhelm2420 We have an Ulu knife that is great for beginners as well as experienced tanners.
Being someone who apprenticed years to learn the trade and had to sign contracts to not reveal secrets or be sued shame on all the taxidermist that tell our secrets that alot of us had to put in blood sweat tears and $ into our carries. TH-cam taxidermist should be sued
Thank you for your comment. This is an interesting view. We are only showing tanning here, but that is what is so special about Dale Knobloch, our founder. He is a pioneer in the industry (45+ years) and has always shared his knowledge of taxidermy, sculpting and tanning to those who were as passionate about it as he is.
"If you have knowledge, let others light their candle in it" - Margaret Fuller