Thank you for all your hard work and sharing it all with us. I've gone from tight cheeks to wrenching all over my 66. Taking some of the mystery out this beast.
I have this mad notion that in two years I would like to buy one of these for around 5 grand. These vids are great to see what is required to own one. Thankyou for posting them.
Thanks for doing this video and posting. I’m doing a full disc brake conversion on mine and your videos are very helpful and informative. Hope all is well across the pond.
I know. I saw your post. That's why I tell everyone zipper boots should be avoided. Zipper boots last a year or less and good quality one piece boots can last ten years.
Great Video. I will make a german version of this procedere including the installation of lockout hubs. I'm going to mention your channel in the video and video description. Thanks a lot. Greetings from Germany
Great video! Bout to tackle this on a 1967 M54 that I picked up the other day! 2800 bucks not rotted out come to think of it no rust at all which is saying something up in northern maine. Comes complete with canvas for bed and a hardtop! Shes got the multi fuel engine, sat for 15 years I went over everything you talked about in the video of a duece sitting for a decade. Fixed the fuel plate (gummed up) new oil batteries and cables and drove her home. (Luckily it was 3 miles away) but following your directions to the t and its helping!
not necessary. In fact, it'll make your install more difficult because it'll be slippery at first, making it hard to keep the boot on the lip. As long as you have the lip and the boot edge clean and dry it should be relatively easy to install.
Cool glad to see you again, excellent videos, I've 3 trucks M931a1 M936 wrecker M978 Hemtt, excellent shape going build camper on the back, a 1mpg camper that is lol Do you have a wreck that you could show how to rebuild the 2 boom cylinders, mine leak internally , out side is clean , they just won't stay up, that sounds like me lol, thanks again
Thanks for the vid! Just bought a M35 A2 and your info is helping me replace the axel seals and boots on the front. Great info on locating the boot clamps! Would have sucked going through all that and having the clamps pop off. I ended up taking the tie rod off after seeing how difficult it was removing and installing the outer knuckle with the tie rod attached. Maybe I got lucky but a few good whacks with a big brass hammer and the tie rod popped off. I need to replace or rebuild the leaf springs all the way around because the right side front and rear have squatted and the truck is about 1-1/2" to 2" lower on that side. Any suggestions on locating new springs? Thanks again for making the vids!
@@tacticalrepair Thanks for getting back to me. After looking for new springs and not coming up with anything I took the leaf spring apart and rearched it. We'll see how long it will last but I am sitting level in the front now. I made a video but can't figure out how to send it to you.
Thank you for the great videos, attention to detail, cleanliness etc. Wonderful knowledge! I wish you were my neighbor... I haven't owned a Deuce for about 10 years now and I totally miss it. The bad thing is, that I leave in NYC and it's tough to own one around here. Though I'm hoping to be retiring soon and maybe things will change. The thing with that is also age. I'm not young anymore and with a bad back, working on big/heavy items and peculiar positions, don't seem to work for me any more. To be honest, if I was to entertain one again, I'd need one that's in good shape, serviced and go from there. I would actually prefer and A2 with no winch and I'd like the whistler turbo...Any thoughts, suggestions, would be appreciated..(I know that it wont be cheap these days...)
Anthony, I'm not aware of anyone selling one that fits your criteria right now. I'd suggest making a want ad on steelsoldiers.com and maybe some facebook groups if you mess with that.
@@tacticalrepair Hello there and thank you for the reply. I don't belong to Facebook but I'm familiar with Steel Soldiers. i got a bit of time, though not much i hope, before i can say that i'm retired and then I'll start looking if nothing changes. if by chance you hear anything, please keep me in mind...Thank you and stay well.
I am putting a zipper boot on to replace one that has disintegrated. It is completely a "field repair", since it is literally in a field! How difficult is putting a zipper boot on while leaving the wheel on? Can you even do that? First time I am putting one of these on. I plan to do a complete tear down in the spring. TIA.
My inner seal was bad and during disassembly I see that the axle tube is loaded with runny grease watered down from diff oil i guess, should I scoop that out as best I can? Thank you
sweet, im in the process of doing this job as well. still on the rears right now. do you got a vids of removing the anchor pins? i had some stuck brake shoes and i just took the clipp and washer off and replaced the shoe, couldnt get the washer to fit so i jus tput the clip back in and pinched it so it wont come off. problem is that i cant adjust the bottom cause the pins are stuck, do i just take the nut off the pin and hit them out or is there a certain way i gotta do it?
Hey I have an M35A2 that need the boots doing but mine have zippers on them. Is it the same process for those as well? Do I need to strip it all the way down to do it or the fact they have zippers means that I don't have to strip it down as far? Bearings and brakes are all new last year just before I got the truck, the new boots didn't arrive in time to be done at the same time.
Zipper boots were meant to be temporary field repairs. you don't have to strip it all down to install them, but if you haven't done so you should. Just because the bearings were done doesn't mean the knuckles were cleaned and greased. Do yourself a favor and install one piece boots. Do it right the first time. Zipper boots don't last long anyway.
@@11bravocrunchie22 assuming the inside of the knuckle is clean and full of uncontaminated grease, you wouldn't have to take any of this stuff apart for a zipper boot. But zipper boots were meant to be temporary field repairs.
im soon to being doing this to the M35A2 i just picked up saturday. Am i missing something here? U-Joints are usually sealed, so all that grease is kind of pointless. If it were a CV joint then yes, that grease would have made a lot of sense. Or is this some type of odd non-sealed U-joint? Honest question, not being a dick.
Non sealed. The things that look like seals are just sheet metal covers to keep large debris out of the needles. If you clean it up and look carefully you can see the roller under the "seals".
@@tacticalrepair yup, but still much more durable with sealed ujoins as these boots absolutely will fail again. The large amount of grease will kinda act like a 2nd seal keeping mud and crap out of the thrust bearing and spindle bushing. Or at least a lot less likely. Im not trying to avoid the grease. Just dont like the ujoint not being sealed.
Meritor CP750N is the ujoint. They come in both sealed (zerks) and bathed (original) variants. The catalog on their website shows the specific part numbers.
I'd love to see how you'd do it better, if you ever even have. I'd bet you don't even have a basic understanding of how any of this shit works together.
Thank you for all your hard work and sharing it all with us. I've gone from tight cheeks to wrenching all over my 66. Taking some of the mystery out this beast.
I have this mad notion that in two years I would like to buy one of these for around 5 grand. These vids are great to see what is required to own one. Thankyou for posting them.
yeah i bought mine for 5k, was gonna get a dropside one for 1.5k but i didnt have a way to transport a non runner
not too long ago, you can get them for even less. now it's not that easy/cheap anymore....
Thanks for doing this video and posting. I’m doing a full disc brake conversion on mine and your videos are very helpful and informative. Hope all is well across the pond.
Just watched your conversion video last night! Great job
Just watched this again. Changing my boots again.
I know. I saw your post. That's why I tell everyone zipper boots should be avoided. Zipper boots last a year or less and good quality one piece boots can last ten years.
Reasons why I was an equipment operator and not a construction mechanic in the Navy volume 1.
Great Video. I will make a german version of this procedere including the installation of lockout hubs.
I'm going to mention your channel in the video and video description.
Thanks a lot.
Greetings from Germany
Hope your job is going good over there
Really appreciate the videos ! They’ve been real helpful👍
You get that seal out of the retainer yet?
Great video! Bout to tackle this on a 1967 M54 that I picked up the other day! 2800 bucks not rotted out come to think of it no rust at all which is saying something up in northern maine. Comes complete with canvas for bed and a hardtop! Shes got the multi fuel engine, sat for 15 years I went over everything you talked about in the video of a duece sitting for a decade. Fixed the fuel plate (gummed up) new oil batteries and cables and drove her home. (Luckily it was 3 miles away) but following your directions to the t and its helping!
Warms my heart to hear that!
Great Job
I appreciate you buddy. Thanks alot.
Would black RTV sealant be ok in the boot groove to help glue it or not necessary? Great video btw. Thanks
not necessary. In fact, it'll make your install more difficult because it'll be slippery at first, making it hard to keep the boot on the lip. As long as you have the lip and the boot edge clean and dry it should be relatively easy to install.
Cool glad to see you again, excellent videos, I've 3 trucks
M931a1
M936 wrecker
M978 Hemtt, excellent shape going build camper on the back, a 1mpg camper that is lol
Do you have a wreck that you could show how to rebuild the 2 boom cylinders, mine leak internally , out side is clean , they just won't stay up, that sounds like me lol, thanks again
That is a leakdown in the valve body most likely.
@@tacticalrepair I bought a new military complete valve body and put in it ,was not fun to do. Boom still leaks down.
Well that sucks ass. My lift cylinders are fine but my crowd cylinder leaks bad. I haven't packed any of them yet, so I have no video to help.
@@tacticalrepair think it's probably cylinders then
Thanks for the vid! Just bought a M35 A2 and your info is helping me replace the axel seals and boots on the front. Great info on locating the boot clamps! Would have sucked going through all that and having the clamps pop off. I ended up taking the tie rod off after seeing how difficult it was removing and installing the outer knuckle with the tie rod attached. Maybe I got lucky but a few good whacks with a big brass hammer and the tie rod popped off. I need to replace or rebuild the leaf springs all the way around because the right side front and rear have squatted and the truck is about 1-1/2" to 2" lower on that side. Any suggestions on locating new springs? Thanks again for making the vids!
I can only suggest finding a spring shop and having new ones made. There are no replacements available that I'm aware of.
@@tacticalrepair Thanks for getting back to me. After looking for new springs and not coming up with anything I took the leaf spring apart and rearched it. We'll see how long it will last but I am sitting level in the front now. I made a video but can't figure out how to send it to you.
I've heard people talk about a piece of cork that gets placed in the axle. Where does this get placed? I don't recall you mentioning it. Thanks
It isn't necessary when you use this silicone I use in the way I use it. Almost nobody uses the cork piece anymore.
Thank you for the great videos, attention to detail, cleanliness etc.
Wonderful knowledge! I wish you were my neighbor...
I haven't owned a Deuce for about 10 years now and I totally miss it. The bad thing is, that I leave in NYC and it's tough to own one around here. Though I'm hoping to be retiring soon and maybe things will change. The thing with that is also age. I'm not young anymore and with a bad back, working on big/heavy items and peculiar positions, don't seem to work for me any more. To be honest, if I was to entertain one again, I'd need one that's in good shape, serviced and go from there. I would actually prefer and A2 with no winch and I'd like the whistler turbo...Any thoughts, suggestions, would be appreciated..(I know that it wont be cheap these days...)
Anthony, I'm not aware of anyone selling one that fits your criteria right now. I'd suggest making a want ad on steelsoldiers.com and maybe some facebook groups if you mess with that.
@@tacticalrepair Hello there and thank you for the reply. I don't belong to Facebook but I'm familiar with Steel Soldiers. i got a bit of time, though not much i hope, before i can say that i'm retired and then I'll start looking if nothing changes. if by chance you hear anything, please keep me in mind...Thank you and stay well.
I am putting a zipper boot on to replace one that has disintegrated. It is completely a "field repair", since it is literally in a field! How difficult is putting a zipper boot on while leaving the wheel on? Can you even do that? First time I am putting one of these on. I plan to do a complete tear down in the spring. TIA.
You need to at least remove the wheel. You can drive it to a better place to repair it as long as it isn't a hundred miles away.
My inner seal was bad and during disassembly I see that the axle tube is loaded with runny grease watered down from diff oil i guess, should I scoop that out as best I can? Thank you
You can if you want, but leaving it won't hurt anything at all. It's just grease and oil like you thought.
Thank you, any suggestions on where to get spin-on oil and fuel filter set-ups?
sweet, im in the process of doing this job as well. still on the rears right now. do you got a vids of removing the anchor pins? i had some stuck brake shoes and i just took the clipp and washer off and replaced the shoe, couldnt get the washer to fit so i jus tput the clip back in and pinched it so it wont come off. problem is that i cant adjust the bottom cause the pins are stuck, do i just take the nut off the pin and hit them out or is there a certain way i gotta do it?
I haven't had to do that, but what your'e thinking should work.
Hey I have an M35A2 that need the boots doing but mine have zippers on them. Is it the same process for those as well? Do I need to strip it all the way down to do it or the fact they have zippers means that I don't have to strip it down as far? Bearings and brakes are all new last year just before I got the truck, the new boots didn't arrive in time to be done at the same time.
Zipper boots were meant to be temporary field repairs. you don't have to strip it all down to install them, but if you haven't done so you should. Just because the bearings were done doesn't mean the knuckles were cleaned and greased.
Do yourself a favor and install one piece boots. Do it right the first time. Zipper boots don't last long anyway.
1- What the best models of M35 ? 2- which points I have to focus a but before buy m35?
M35A2C, year model 1987 1988, or 1989 is best. Make sure it runs, brakes work, and inspect for rust first.
How is the process different for zipper boots?
@@11bravocrunchie22 assuming the inside of the knuckle is clean and full of uncontaminated grease, you wouldn't have to take any of this stuff apart for a zipper boot. But zipper boots were meant to be temporary field repairs.
@@tacticalrepair i send you an email. Been having difficulties.
What grease do you use for bearings and packing the hubs?
Mystic JT-6 red #2 grease.
im soon to being doing this to the M35A2 i just picked up saturday. Am i missing something here? U-Joints are usually sealed, so all that grease is kind of pointless. If it were a CV joint then yes, that grease would have made a lot of sense. Or is this some type of odd non-sealed U-joint? Honest question, not being a dick.
Non sealed. The things that look like seals are just sheet metal covers to keep large debris out of the needles. If you clean it up and look carefully you can see the roller under the "seals".
@@tacticalrepair damn, if i ever replace the shafts, ill be looking for sealed units. A sealed unit would last forever protected by that boot.
You still have to pack the knuckle with grease for the axle shaft thrust bearings and spindle bushings.
@@tacticalrepair yup, but still much more durable with sealed ujoins as these boots absolutely will fail again. The large amount of grease will kinda act like a 2nd seal keeping mud and crap out of the thrust bearing and spindle bushing. Or at least a lot less likely. Im not trying to avoid the grease. Just dont like the ujoint not being sealed.
Meritor CP750N is the ujoint. They come in both sealed (zerks) and bathed (original) variants. The catalog on their website shows the specific part numbers.
Hey man, how's Korea? Any updates?
Not bad, but kinda boring with everything shut down.
Has anyone ever tried a long zip tie for the boots?
Not that I'm aware of, but it takes a shitload of pressure to keep those boots on. I don't think a ziptie would work.
Who is scooter?
the dog if im not mistaken lol
Re focus your camera
@@lowellcarter2298 back then I was just recording with my phone. No way to change focus on it.
Amateur at best
I'd love to see how you'd do it better, if you ever even have. I'd bet you don't even have a basic understanding of how any of this shit works together.