Today is October 13, 2023 and this video I know is going to help me. My featherlite weed eater is 23 yrs old and I am not giving up on it. Thank you for your tips. On my way to order a new diaphragm.
Great video. I have a trimmer that ran fine with the engine warm, but wouldn't start at all when cold. I applied the method shock closed (1, 2, 3) -> shock 1/2 (1, 2, 3) -> shock open (1, 2, 3) -> shock 1/2 (1, 2... and the engine came to life! Thank you very much.
I had one just exactly like that one, I loved it !!! Bought it for $35.oo at a yard sale, I used it for at least 15 years, it was in two flood's (flood's alot where I live in Rainelle WV) completely submerged in floodwater mind you, it finally started spewing back thru the carb most likely because of a worn out Ring maybe cylinder scoring etc, so I got mad and terminated it (it never came back) but I salvaged the case half's the carb, rod, bearings, Piston, magneto, tube, spool head etc. After 15+ years and two flood's I figured I got my money's worth out of it !!!! Feather lite !!! I loved it you take care of that weedeater cause there good ones and light to. Good video and all the best to you SIR.
The best video ever shown on youtube, no one else has ever told you to go into the tank first , he his so right on doing this because you get a lot of problems with fuel lines , blocked fuel filter from the tank, so before every one starts stripping down the carbretter go to the part that feeds the machine always first.i will be watching your videos for ever now on kind regards some one who only buys broken tools and fix them for a hobby but still love watching others fixing them as well , thank you colin from croydon surrey England 👍 👏 ❤ ❤
I had a model older than this one that I love. My sister has difficulty with tools that are too heavy and she actually loved mine and found it easy to use th-cam.com/users/postUgkx_rBCFuDW1zD6blTGhLkvAkxU657uR_lG . This is a newer model but was even lighter which she really appreciates. She enjoys it and I no longer have to go to her house to trim as she can handle it fine. Haven't used it enough to comment on the battery life but lithium batteries last longer than the old style. Being cordless makes it easy to trim the far edges of the property. The entire yard can be trimmed with one charged battery.
Excellent video. I am 79 and still working on small engines since I was 11. I agree completely with what you said about the diaphragms. I am working on a Husqvarna chainsaw but the carburetor is basically the same as a Walbro like what you are working on. One other thing to check is a spark arrestor if your equipment has one. They become clogged and the engine will not rev up.
@@DoctorFixMaster I watched this video yesterday and attempted to fix it.Its been sitting for several years b/c I just set it aside when it stopped working.For the spark arrestor you have to take both plastic housings off.THen you can see the muffler.IT's held on with 2 springs.Taking a spring off and putting it back on when done was the most challenging part to me.Once you get that spring off you can see the underside of the muffler.The arrestor is just a screen that sticks out of the muffler.You remove the arrestor and I just burned all the deposits off of it.Then reassemble.
Outstanding 'class' and tutorial DoctorFixMaster. I easily repaired my annoying featherlite SST25. It runs like a champ now. Thanks for the easy and no nonsense video. You are great.
Sir, great. Just great. I looked for a diaphragm for my Walbro WT-1116 but ended up just buying another carburetor for $15, a Hilom 753-06190. Installed new carb as is from the outa the box, no idle adjustments et al, and worked like it did when brand new. You are the man!
Thanks for the video. I have a friend that has serviced 2strokes for 34yrs and he says that the petrol quality in OUR COUNTRY is rubbish and he is now using 30 to 1 in all his own personal equipment. I am doing the same with no drawbacks in all my 2 stroke equipment. As of yet. Anyhow its nice that you can help yourself and others keep quality old equipment running well. Regards Paul
I wish I watched this video sooner, both because of the great advice, but also because I have a Craftsman that looks EXACTLY the same (probably licensed copy or whatever). I had the same experience with the starting quirks on it, it seems like it's prone to flooding if you follow the instructions or the "typical" starting procedure. One of our previous tenants was a pro gardener and he left that and a bigger Husqvarna behind when he moved and I finally got the two of them running after rebuilding and fiddling with the carbs.
Thanks for the instructions on how to fix my weedeater l appreciate your help thanks.thing is l have an added propblem my weedeater is leaking oil please show me how to fix that please thank you.
Excellent video. You focused on the metering diaphragm. When checking the metering diaphragm you should also check the fuel pump diaphragm on the opposite side. Also, I can't agree with you more on the value of using engineered, ethanol-free two-stroke fuel such as TruFuel. I use it exclusively for all my two-stroke equipment to prevent fuel-related problems. Thanks!
Check out Chickanic’s video on canned fuel. The results may surprise you. My 2 strokes run better on non-ethanol fuel mixed with a good quality 2 stroke oil. I don’t like paying around $8 a quart for fuel. I can mix my own right now for around $13 for 2 gallons.
I think this his the best video I've seen because he does say look at the petrol pipe in the tank first, spot on, the pipe in the tank can fail as I've had this many times and not another video tells you this, thank god someone has told you what to look for first kind regards colin evans south london, love it
Good video, thank you for taking the time to make it. You could buy premix alkylate petrol, like Aspen make, and skip the benzene overdose from forecourt pump fuel. No ethanol in it either. Keeps for years with no additives needed. My strimmer fuel system and carb diaphragm was totally destroyed by forecourt fuel - even worse now - the ethanol is being increased to 10%. Never using that stuff again.
Sometimes you can revive/prolong the diaphragm life with WD-40. Check, clean, or replace fuel filter if fuel delivery is an issue. Use yellow Tygon fuel line for extended life of lines.
I wondered about that. If the weedeater sits over the winter months most diaphrams would be hardened up to some degree. I wondered about how to maintain the diaphram when not in use. That would solve a lot of starting problems
When you're 2 cycle is flooded, you can leave it alone, if you have time. Providing that you tilt the engine that allows the fuel on top of the piston, to seep down passed the rings. Or, if you're in a hurry, open the choke, with the switch on, and just keep pulling. Flooding is when the spark plug is so coated with fuel, that there's no spark. Continuously pulling on it, will allow air and some more fuel into the combustion chamber. But the key is more air. You're always gonna get more air than fuel, when the choke is off. But, just keep pulling, and it'll eventually fire, as long as everything else is in proper working order.
IV replaced new carb got spark got compression but I have a fuel starvation but everything is new lines new filter ect new spark plug but won't start why is the carb not chucking up the petrol to engine ? Please any one know
1. Did you replace the carb with one of those POS Amazon carbs? 2. How do you know you have compression? And how much compression do you actually have? 3. Are you sure the fuel lines are connected properly? How do you know they're connected properly?@@robertlevans6336
I agree with you, people just throw them away even after a year or two nowadays just like vacuums and etc, like they are disposable, I picked up some great ones at the curb. lol
I'm shocked that this one hasn't gotten more traffic! These failures are so common. I'm certain that a lot of people out there go buy new ones when really cheap parts would fix it as good as new.
@@duallity2403 Sorry to hear that. A whole new carb usually corrects it right away. I have a couple of spares lying around and it makes things easy to swap one out when a diaphragm goes bad and I want a working one quickly. Another thing to check for is a leaky primer bulb. You won't get fuel delivery if your primer bulb has a hole in it. If you're getting fuel, the next thing to check is the spark. Remove the plug and lay it against the engine (with the spark cable still on it) while you pull the starter cord. You should see a spark across the plug gap. If you don't, you'll know you have an electrical problem to trace. Good luck!
@@DoctorFixMaster I changed the carb, spark plug, fuel tank and lines, went and got fresh gas. Nothing. It's not even that old, maybe five years. Any brand recommendations on a new one?
@@duallity2403 Did you do the spark test I mentioned before? I really don't think you're going to need a new one. Sometimes it isn't enough just to change the plug, although I have a couple of extra plugs lying around from my experiments. Those take a very very long time to wear out, especially with a weed wacker. The spark test I mentioned will rule out a spark cable or timing problem too. You should see the spark fire when the cylinder is at the top of the stroke.
On several Ryobi weedeaters I have a had the same issue and no amount of carb fiddling ro replacement would work. They would start reasonably well from cold and after 20 min of work they would stop and couldnt be restarted. You could see a spark but it was obviously weak. On these machines it was always the magneto coil that would fail causing all of these symptoms. I have a 37 year old Stihl saw and it has never had an ignition problem so I guess quality does pay !
@@Cbv1914 I've had pretty good luck with eReplacementParts.com. If you have the make and model number, they have diagrams available for choosing the proper part number and ordering it. Good luck!
A also agree with fuel losing its octane, I guess. It just doesn't seem to last as long as it did before and people say the new additives are not great for small engines, ethanol for one.
E-10 gasoline is the killer of these small engines. And a jug of E-10 sitting in a hot and humid shed has about a month shelf life. Even with the 4 stroke mower engines, the E-10 absorbs so much moisture they corrode the inside of the carbs. And now our government is trying to pass the use of E-15. We're screwed. Fortunately some WAWA gas stations are now selling non-ethanol gas. It's all you should put in a 2 cycle engine ( oil mixed, of course) and any equipment that sees seldom use (pressure washers, hedge trimmers,etc).
Fine the two small screws on the carb. Find the “ high speed “ adjustment screw and turn it counter clockwise about 1/3 turn. Start and run the trimmer using full throttle for 3-4 second bursts. Adjust some more if it appears “ sluggish “ as yours does. After you get that sorted out. Adjust the other screw ( idle adjustment screw ) to give a smoother idle. You need a special tool for that or you can pull the ink part of an abdicate pen out and use the tip of the pen tube to adjust the screws.
Thanks for the tip. For those models that are adjustable, getting them right can be very tricky, and once they are off kilter, it's very hard to get them back to proper adjustment. I think that's why many manufacturers tune them in now at the factory and don't give users an opportunity to monkey with them.
I think that running Ethanol gasoline causes the diaphragm to get brittle. I only run non-Ethanol gasoline in my power equipment. It costs a bit more, but it is worth it.
I had replaced the primer bulb, because it was visibly cracked. I could not get it to prime, could see bubbles coming in as the primer refilled with fuel, but it only filled half way. I kept pushing and pushing, still only half full. Would that be due to the diaphragm? This thing worked good last year, but not been able to get it going this summer.
JavaMan the prime bulb should pull fuel even if you take the carb apart and only have the half that the prime bulb sits on. With the two hoses connected and in the tank or other container it should still draw fuel. Check your fuel line. It could have a small crack or hole. Easiest thing is to replace the fuel line and prime bulb then try again. In my experience and what I learned while repairing mine, the diaphragm does effect fuel going to prime bulb. The bulb wont actually fill completely. It may fill only about 3/4. Press the bulb 3-4 times. This is enough to fill the carb with fuel. If it doesn’t start just put a new carb on. Its so cheap and comes complete.
I have never had any luck with carburetors on 2 stroke machines. Have always stripped and cleaned them completely, blown out with compressed air with new kits. Sometimes they will run a little then stop even with correct new fuel and settings. Only success is with a new carburetors everytime. I have 2 Featherlite SST25's and other 2 stroke machines
Dont use compressed air to blow out passages in the carbs. Even the pressurized cans of carb cleaner can/will damage the check valves in these carbs. Zama recommends to disassemble the carb and soak the body in fresh non-ethanol gas. I have had to do this as long as overnight to free things up. And no more hot tanking them. Those check valves are very susceptible to damage. And the primers have 2 in them also.
I used to go to farm auctions and get good equipment that only need cleaned carbs dirty or rusty mags and coils most weedwhips are 2 cycle and when they sit they clog because of oil i usually run a little straight gas thru mine and run it out till it won't run anymore 👍
Interesting video but somewhat curious about your starting problems. About 80% of your experiences are contrary to mine. Most common failure on mine (trimmers and chain saws) is primer bulb (on those with one); second is plastic hoses. I've acquired additional units over the years which needed the preceding. Fortunately, I've never needed to replace a diaphragm. I use pump gas; I've found that good quality 2 cycle oil contains stabilizer and other beneficial additives. My oldest units date to the early '80's. They all have their original spark plugs. Gas in our area is lousy; it's the eco-friendly gov't mandated crap.
Thanks for your inputs. Soft plastic/rubber seems to be a common weak point for both of our machines. It surprises me that someone would use their tools as much as you have with no diaphragm issues, but then again, my video is for my Weedeater Featherlite and other designs might not suffer in the same way. I hear you about the gas, which is why I always buy fresh gas from Lowe's in the quart bottles, high octane, that have never failed me. I have no problems with eco friendly, in spite of inconvenience to me. The earth will only take care of us as well as we take care of it.
@@DoctorFixMaster At one time I used high octane gas in my yard equipment thinking I was being beneficial. At some point, (back in the '70's) , contrary to my belief at the time,I learned that high octane gas not only is not better for yard equipment, or even benign compared to regular, it is detrimental and have used low test since. I have had to replace diaphragms on my old style B&S lawn mowers. Doing good for the earth is a wonderful goal but is quite subjective. They destroyed 50 acres of forest nearby to build a solar farm. Back in the '70's the we were pressured to 'save the planet, plant a tree'. Now people are getting court judgments to force neighbors to cut down trees which shade their solar panels.
@@65csx83 Saving the environment can be tricky and people get that wrong all the time, but we'll all be dead sooner if we don't try, or keep pretending it can be ignored while we spread across the land consuming everything like a virus colony that attempts to grow until it's unfortunate host dies. But that's another topic for another day. Thanks for your insights. I'd like to hear more details about why the higher octane TruFuel from Lowe's is so bad. The stuff has worked wonderfully for me because it comes in small batches and is always fresh, not to mention premixed in the right ratio for me, so it's much less of a hassle.
So I bought rebuild kit...took carb apart. The screen was clogged. Hit with carb cleaner and air. Nope. Put new screen in. Cleaned every orifice.... works
I never leave my 15-years old Weed Eater standing with gasoline in the system. Empty the fuel tank then start the motor and allow it to run out of gasoline before retiring the Weed Eater for the season. Fuel lines, diaphragm, and venturi remain dry and pliable for years rather than months.
@Hank Bridges Two cycle oil is just two cycle oil. It's pretty standard, and premixed fuel in the right ratio for your machine is just fine. I've never seen specific types of two cycle oil, so premixed fuel is just fine for most machines. I'll never use anything else. I have far less trouble with mine by using the premixed fuel in small batches rather than doing a gallon myself that sits around for two years waiting for me to use it all. The premixed fuel in small batches guarantees that you're always using a fresh fuel/oil mixture and that keeps my machine very happy.
If you are doing a carb video and can't start your equipment because it is flooded you should watch a video on how to pressure test and set up a carb, you also don't have to wait a half hour to start it. Just use full throttle no choke.
Most people don't have a pressure testing setup, including me, but it's great info to have if diaphragm surgery doesn't work and your fuel lines and bulbs are in good shape. Thanks!
Definitely if all the gaps and holes are not lined up and in the right place, you'll break things. What does the piston pulse port do? I'm guessing it provides some pressurized gas to either actuate the metering diaphragm or provide some other key function. Can you clue us in specifically on what it's for?
Keyword is pulse. No pulse no fuel. Dead. It's hell on a new carb. Lol. Talk about a head scratcher. Turned the intake gasket around and ahhhhh the sound I was wanting to hear.
It sounds like it needs to be tuned. Its bogging down as it revs up. Also vibrating pretty heavily at idle too. It has High and Low speed jets to get it smooth throughout the RPM range. They are the two most important screws on the engine.
No doubt, but the carburetors they are selling nowadays have no adjustment screws. They are factory tuned to one setting, most likely because people monkey with them and put them out of operating range. Then you can fix everything wrong with the machine and it still won't start and you'll have no path back to what works besides very time consuming experimentation and frustration. If people mess with mix screws, they had better mark their original positions before they touch anything so they can put them back if it doesn't work.
@@DoctorFixMaster The Cali carbs don't have mixture screws because some states have stricter emissions regs. But on the East coast we get them all day long with mixture adjustment screws. Maybe the vendor is required to sell these Cali compliant carbs to certain zip codes? In any case, 1-1/4 turn out on the Low and 3/4 turn out on the High will most always get them started. Tune as needed from there.
@@steadyeddie7453 Good to know. Someone out there is going to monkey with those screws on top of other problems and won't be able to get back to where they were. It helps to know where they should be so you can always revert them back to where you know they should work. :)
@@DoctorFixMaster If anything has an adjustment people are going to mess with it. I work on these every day, and come to youtube late at night to get the general pulse of whats going on out there in the lawn and garden equipment world. For an indepth explaination of how a Walbro carb works go to Jay Goulds video. Except for one small omission, he nails it. Cheers
You're welcome. DIY videos are for everyone, and crafted as such. Not just for people who spend time watching them so they can turn around and pretend to be be experts. It's that simple.
I live in Arizona and I had the problem like you and I went to Ace by a gum out sprayed and I clean all surface of the engine. The weed eater turned on again.
Anything that cleans out the carb will probably help, but I think spray will only give marginal improvements to a crusty diaphragm. It's easy enough to replace those every couple of years.
If it runs for awhile, you know the timing and electrical is fine. You have a fuel delivery issue, most likely. Check all the things in this video. It's likely your problem lies there. Try not to overchoke it either. You could be getting too much.
Great informative vid. Quick question are these diaphragms standard for the featherlite models? My unit starts but sounds like its starving for fuel at full throttle.
@@DoctorFixMaster thanks for the info. I removed my air filter and observed that when priming there is 1 squirt of fuel into the carb and even though I continue pressing the priming bulb no more fuel squirts into the carb. Could this be a blockage on the priming bulb side?
@@sa22c7 It could be, yes. When you pump the primer bulb there should be fuel circulating between the carb and the gas tank, which is why there are two hoses to the tank, one to suck up the gas and the other to dump it back in the tank. Every component must be nice and clean to work properly, and the diaphragm must be soft and flexible. Check the hoses and the bulb itself for holes or small cracks, or blockages. If those conditions are met, it will fix most problems.
@@DoctorFixMaster Forgot to ask where did you get the diaphragm? Most of what I have seen online is not the square type but the type with a notch on on end.
@@sa22c7 Mine was a Walbro 95-526. Those are pretty easy to order online for not much money. You can get them from ebay, Amazon, or any number of online retailers.
You can take it apart and spray it out with carb cleaner. Make sure the little microscreen in there is nice and clean. Check the diaphragm for stiffness per this video. Good luck!
i think my most common failure to start issue is forgetting to turn off the kill switch, i try to switch it right back to on after using it but i still dont always remember if i didnt so i just keep tugging on the start rope for forever until i wear myself out.... then once im all worn out i remember why, is because i left the kill switch on again.
Yeah that sucks. Some models have kill switches that are spring loaded, and you have to hold it down to kill the engine. As soon as you release it, it goes back to operating mode, ready for the next run. :)
I haven't done that before, but I'm not opposed to helping you fix it. Send me an email at doctorfixmaster@gmail.com and tell me what it's doing, it's make and model number, and roughly how old it is, and I can lead you through the repair process, or make other arrangements if that isn't successful.
Thanks for the video. Yesterday, I installed a new carburetor on Homelite trimmer, and it started working but stalled after 10 minutes. Started again, did the same. Today, adjusted the idle screw and it stalled again. Fuel is one day old. I checked the muffler screen and found it good. Any idea why it is stalling? are there any adjustments to keep it running? What should be the limit for idle screw adjustment? Do I rotate the screw clockwise fully in and back-off 2 turns? how do I get correct idle speed?
The latest Walbro carbs I've purchased have no carb adjustment. I wouldn't recomment messing with those unless you're very careful to mark the factory default position of the screen. If it's stalling after running 10 min, I'd check the integrity of your fuel hoses in the tank next.
@@DoctorFixMaster Thanks. Integrity meaning cut or damage? I notice a slight leak of gas thru the hole on the tank where the hose comes out. This shouldn't cause the stalling. correct?
@@orkayen That's right, the hoses into the tanks need to be in good condition. You can watch the hoses while the unit operates to make sure the machine isn't sucking air and dying.
@@DoctorFixMaster I was looking for "air supply". I noticed that I had a wrong hose connection. Unknowingly, I had connected hose with fuel filer onto the carburetor "return /outlet" and the other hose (short one) to the inlet. Since, the short one was above the fuel, I think air was getting in or fuel was not getting in. I changed the connection and going to try during my next edging. Hopefully, it fixes the stalling.
Been running a Husqyvarna 128 hard for a month. Only 4 months old. Started running rough and now will start but only run in half choke and bogs down when moved to run. YOur video is very informative but seems to speak to older units. Any ideas?
Hi mark, iam using my wife's TH-cam channel so my name isn't Sandy lol. Anyways I would check screen on exhaust , when they plug up it restricts the exhaust flow and the motor runs poorly with very little power. If not that the factory settings for the mixture on carb need to be adjusted. Some of the adjusting screws are hidden and some are exposed with plugs covering the screws. The hidden ones are usually straight down where the lobe is, it turns and is where the idle screws rests against. There will be a small plug that will have to be removed to get access to screw. Right in the centre also check your fuel lines they tend to break or get brittle very quickly. I think it's the mix because your running on choke in order to keep it running. Hope this helps!
If you don't mind me sending a little bit of information your way? I will start by telling you that I am very knowledgeable about 2-stroke engines! I own about a hundred of them and half of them are my chainsaw collection, The other half of them are lawnmowers and weed wackers and blowers. First off, You should never put regular gasoline in a 2-stroke! They detonate bad and especially the hotter the temperature is the worse it happens.Second thing, Your on the right track using the canned fuel, But try using the 50:1 enstead of the 40:1 and it will start easier and won't fowl the plug as bad. And if it is cold weather i take the plug out and heat up the electrode and ground strap for a few seconds and shoot one small shot of starting fluid in the cylinder and replace the sparkplug. You never put full choke on or your not getting any oxygen in to the cylinder which is what makes a fire burn if I'm not mistaken 😋
Our park just purchased the coocher brush cutter. It was just delivered July 27, 2022. Today is August 2, 2022. The pulley system is not working. The spring sprung and no longer intact and is outside of the machine, therefore the pulley is not retracting the pull string. What do we need to do to fix, repair or replace. Thanks.
The answer to this depends a great deal on what kind of machine the coocher brush cutter is. In my experience fixing a machine that is almost new is a far better bet than starting from square one and buying something brand new again, unless your experience with it reveals a critical design flaw that will have it breaking over and over again. I'm not sure of the specifics with this machine you speak of, and can't possibly say without having a look at it. If it were me, I'd try to understand what went wrong and why. Once you're there, the right course should be pretty clear, and if you have to buy new, you'll be armed with new information about what not to buy. Good luck.
You have to be very careful to reassemble it exactly the same way. Any misplaced or incorrectly installed component can render your carburetor non-functional.
In my opinion anyone not using trufuel is not trying to solve their 2 and 4 cycle problems. Pump fuel is a problem creator period. These repair shops make a living off of pump fuel users in the spring.
I been working on 2 strokes for years (boat and jet ski world) and those trufeul is over rated I feel. I get ethanol-free pump gas and use the preferred company's oils and there is no need to work on the carb. Only thing it needs the e free that canned fuel is just too too much.
@@costasgeorgiou5015 When you buy premium fuel, if after selecting premium you don't pump the first half gallon or so in a different container you can't be sure you are getting clean premium. (ethanol free) My Cub Cadet dealer told me that orders right from the Cub Cadet home office stated that pump fuel is not a suggested fuel source for 2-4 cycle engines. I got fed up with going thru a few machines each year in my lawn care business. Since going to trufuel I haven't lost a machine in three years. Does trufuel cost more, not compared to buying new lawn care machines. Plus the trufuel machines generally start on the first pull unlike pump fuel machines. You say you work on you own machines, try paying a shop for your work and compare the difference. I appreciate your reply to my comment(s).
So you can buy just the diaphragm gasket type assy? If so do you buy it from manufacturer? Should you spray the carburetor while it’s somewhat apart w carb cleaner ?
Yes, you can purchase just the diaphragm kits. There are a lot of different online parts dealers. Spraying out the carb with cleaner is a great idea to clean out all the passages and screens.
I bought a new weedeater and used it 3 or 4 times and now it want start for nothing. Have tried everything but the gas line thing. Will try it. Seems like I have to buy a new one every season a d hard to fine anybody to work on them
How much time goes by between uses is important. You want to start with new gas every season. They need fresh fuel, and it's best to store them for the winter without any fuel in the tank, so run the fuel out on your last trim job of the season. The other items covered in this video is a good bet for why your weedeater won't start, especially if your machine is relatively new and not used that much. Good luck!
It isn't bad to have a spare carburetor lying around as a spare. You can spend as much time as you want taking it apart (if possible) and replacing broken components in its inner working.
@@kentlawrence8204 What's your experience with the fuel filters that some carburetor kits include? Do they help or are they useless. Or do they even work at all?
@@democrazy69 If a fuel filter is part of the carburetor, as long as you know where it is and what it is supposed to do, you can monitor it to keep it clean. My weedeater has only a coarse filter screen inside it. Most of the actual fuel filtering is done with the ceramic filter on the fuel intake hose in the gas tank. As long as the screen is clean, it should work just fine.
Thanks! If you were using your weed eater for 1/2 hour with no problems at all, and then the very next day it won't start or even attempt to start, and you've checked the spark, fuel lines, plug, and know (from the wet plug) that fuel is getting in, would the diaphragm still be your first guess?
If you've already checked the electrical and you know you're getting a spark (you should be able to see it visually if you pull it out, attach the cable, hold the plug against the metal body of the machine, and pull the starter cord), then fuel delivery is probably your issue. Remember you need a proper fuel air mixture and not just liquid gas. It's really easy to flood these machines when trying to start them by overchoking them. Start lean by not even using the choke or the throttle. Sometimes that makes a big difference. Give it a few pulls and try it again with more and more throttle, then more and more choke until you hear it sputter. Then you know you're close to the sweet spot and you can remember it the next time you go to start it. If none of that works and you're using fresh fuel, a new diaphragm is a cheap experiment. If it's more than a year or so old, it might be time to swap it out anyway. I hope that's helpful.
@@DoctorFixMaster Thanks. A simple flooding issue was what i was hoping for. I even took the plug out and let th air circulate through the combustion chamber for a few hours, but still nothing. I'd ordered a replacement carb from ebay, as they are surprisingly cheap. I would try to just replace the diaphragm but my track record for taking carbs apart without losing a piece is pretty dismal, so for $12 USD, a new carb seems a good thing to have. Its just so weird that the machine went from 100% to ZERO overnight. :-(
@@randy_constan That is pretty strange. You used it, shut it off, and a day later it won't start? Was it hard to start the last time you used it, or did it fire right up?
@@DoctorFixMaster No, there was no problem the day before. 3 pulls to get it to sputter on full choke, started right up at 1/2, moved to full 10 seconds later with no problem. Even tried spraying a little fuel into the open carb hoping for at least some change. Maybe the new carb will help. Meantime, open to any suggestions.
@@randy_constan It's not a bad thing to have an extra carb around. You can service it and clean it up on your own time without interrupting your ability to use the machine. While you're in there you might spot the culprit: gummed up fuel screen or other component is a likely culprit. I'd take it apart and clean it up really well with carb cleaner and put a new diaphragm in that one too. Then you'll have one ready to go the next time you have any trouble.
My Toro 51944 ran fine until I replaced the cracked primer bulb. Now nothing. Spark is there but not a hint of running. Tried starter fluid and dripping gas through carb and plug hole. Cleaned exhaust/muffler. Primer bulb is pulling fuel through the carb and spitting it back in to the tank like it should. WTF?
One thing I have found is that if I try to start it and there is too much fuel, it chokes and then forget about starting it. Then it has to sit for sometime before I can even try starting it again. Take the filter cover off and give it an hour or so. Then the next time you attempt to start it, don't apply any choke or get all over the gas right away. It's far better to start with not enough fuel delivery and then ease into a more rich mixture to get it going than to hit it with a rich mixture that is too much right away. That way there isn't a recovery time for fuel to evaporate out of the carb. If that doesn't work, you may have to double check all the items I go over in this video to make sure all your ducks are in a row.
Melanie- did you resolve your no start after primer bulb replacement? Did you reverse the fuel lines? If it ran fine before the bulb replacement, and now won't start, I would focus on your repair.
I got the wrong version of the replacement carb. It has two brass inlet lines. My weedeater didn’t have a priming bulb and only one fuel connection. Is that what connects to the second brass inlet?
One of those brass inlets is for the fuel hose that pulls fuel from the tank. The other one is a return to the tank so that when you press the priming bulb, fuel washes over the carburetor components so they're in the right place when you pull start it. I might not be much good giving advice about carburetors without priming bulbs. I think those are pretty rare anymore.
i just inherited an entire lot of this brand, blower hand trimmer and the wt3100 trimer you have. I have to replace the fuel lines but I'm a weee lost on which port the fuel line is on the carb and the starter line for the starter bubble fuel? I'm running the same carburetor .
If you have the same machine as me the pipes you put the fuel hoses on are slightly different sizes and receive different size lines. On mine, the hose closest to the bulb (the fatter one) is the one that dumps into the tank. The skinnier one further from the bulb is the actual fuel line from the tank to the carb. I hope that helps. Good luck!
Hey Mr fix master. I dropped my echo in my pond while running. Now it will not crank, not even try to crank. Got fuel, spark , compression. Any idea what might be wrong?
@@comanchejr921 Hard to say what might be wrong with it, but if you are getting fuel and spark it should run if all you did was drop it in water. Something is probably up with the fuel or spark. If you remove the plug & connect the terminal and hold it against the metal body of the machine, you should see a spark there when you pull the starter handle. If it doesn't spark, you have a water induced short somewhere. If spark is good, you need to make sure that all water is out of the fuel and the fuel lines. Remove the carburetor and open it up and let it dry out for a few days with the bulb removed.. Start with brand new fuel in case some water got in there. Water got in somewhere and broke it. Get that water out and it should be fine. Good luck!
New carburetor assemblies are not that expensive. You can bolt on a brand new one while you take the other one apart and give it a good cleaning with carburetor cleaner and replace the diaphragm. Then you'll have a spare ready to go when the other one finally gums up and the diaphragm stiffens.
I cleaned my carb and it still doesn’t work. It works when I spray carb cleaner in for about 20 seconds. I’m gonna try this next. My pos murray sux so much Thanks for the tips
If it works briefly with carb cleaner, you've already proven you have spark and timing. Fuel delivery is your issue and a new diaphragm stands a very good chance of correcting the problem. Good luck!
@@johnmartin5153 I poked around online and found that the M2510 has a carburetor part number 753-06190, and I found one parts website that indicated that this is just a Walbro WT-973 carburetor. You may want to double check that before you buy a replacement diaphragm, but diaphrams for that Walbro carburetor should be easy to find for just a few bucks.
I’ve got an odd one: it’s a Murray 25cc, basically the same. When I attempt to start it, I press the primer 10x, choke it on full, I get a few quick fires, and then it dies. It will not restart.....period. I try different choke settings and try to clear out a flood in case. It has a new spark plug, I checked it, it sparks beautifully, check the fuel lines, checked the primer bulb, all looks good and cycles fuel. Disassembled the carb, everything looks good, diaphragm, jets, chambers are all clear. I removed the muffler, that’s clear. I’ve even tried to shoot a shot of starter fluid and not even a pop. I took off and isolated the kill switch. I took off the back cover and inspected what I could see of the cylinder and piston, appears ok. It has compression holding my finger over the spark plug hole. Everything is optimal, but no start. It has always been a hard start, but started. I’ve dialed in the hi-lo screws when it used to run, and it ran and idled great and started right back up when warm. AND..brand new fuel and flushed the old. I’m at my wits end. Ideas?
Sounds like you've covered your bases. Does your carb allow you to change the fuel/air mix or is it permanently set at the factory (no screws)? If your diaphragm is more than 2 years old, I'd replace it.They are cheap and the first thing to go. All they have to do is get a little stiff and you'll start having problems.
dezdon01- Did you figure out the problem? I noticed you were very detailed in your start-up procedure, but I didn't see you mention that you squeezed the throttle trigger fully when trying to start on full choke. Are you doing this? The engine needs a wide open throttle valve when the choke is closed. If you "get a few quick fires, then it dies", I would pull the spark plug. Is it wet? Yes= flooded= too much fuel, not enough air. Keep that trigger squeezed. Good luck.
Possibly. You normally use two cycle oil for that. I'm not sure what running with regular oil in the mix might do. I would think not much, but I could be wrong about that. Perhaps the proof is in the pudding if it won't start. I'd flush it out and start over with a new carb diaphragm and the right fuel mix. Only then can you debug the problem the rest of the way. Good luck!
Hi I was wondering if you know a quick and cheap way to replace the bolts that hold the choke in place they snapped in the middle of operating on my weed eater on the second ever use and I’ve only had it for about a month any ideas
That indicates a carb that is all gummed up and clogged. Take it apart, spray everything out with carb cleaner, replace the diaphragm & primer bulb if necessary and try again. If it's clean, there's no reason everything should work fine and deliver needed fuel.
Hello sir i have a stihl bruscutter Fs 280 ,have cleaned the carborateur and wen full tank gas he work good wen is it one kwater of fuel gas in the thank is biginging boxdow. Til it dies. So what can it happened sir.have put new carb kit on it.
If it works with a full tank, that is a significant clue and says there is nothing wrong with your carburetor. Check your fuel delivery...ie your filters and hoses from the tank to the carb. I bet your problem is there.
What I showed is exactly how my carb was built, with the diaphragm between the gasket and the cover. If anyone has any doubts though, they can swap the gasket and the diaphragm and see if it still works.
If carburetor diaphragm in my Toro is bad, could that cause fuel to run straight through and fill up combustion chamber while trimmer is laying on the ground. That’s happening and I don’t know what else could cause this.
It's a guarantee that if your diaphragm is too stiff or ruptured, your machine won't work. Liquid fuel in the cylinder might happen from more than one different kind of failure, but I'd guess a bad diaphragm is a good first bet, since it is a relatively fragile component when contrasted with the other metal parts in there.
DoctorFixMaster : Thank you very much .I’m assuming if I can get a new carburetor for my 16 year old machine that it should handle anything causing fuel flooding the combustion chamber. I can’t justify much more money in a machine with limited parts available, but after looking at the newer Toros, they have cheapened them up so much that I don’t want to part with “old faithful”. I already have new gas tank, fuel filter, air filter. The diaphragm was stuck to the gasket behind it, and I put it back together that way as I didn’t think at that time that there would be any chance of getting those parts. That’s when the gas started to seem to run straight thru filling up combustion chamber. Thank you very much, H.Marquis
H Marquis- Did you resolve your problem with flooding? 2 possibilities. The pump diaphram on the opposite side of the carb from the metering diaphram has gone bad. A gasket kit will fix that. Or, one of the check valves in the carb has gone bad, which is easiest to fix with a new carb. But dont keep pulling on a flooding engine. It will hydrostatic lock and you'll shear the flywheel pin.
I'm only familiar with one diaphragm. There wasn't a top or bottom one, it was just the one I showed in the video. It seems to me there should only be one, but I could be wrong about that. It's just a simple mechanism for pumping fuel, so I can't think of any reasons for needing more than one of those. That isn't to say there aren't fancier designs out there that have cleverly concocted improvements requiring two. :)
@@DoctorFixMaster One side of the carb has the metering diaphragm, and the opposite side has a pump diaphragm. The pump diaphragm looks like it is made from mylar and uses two reed style valves to control fuel flow.
Today is October 13, 2023 and this video I know is going to help me. My featherlite weed eater is 23 yrs old and I am not giving up on it. Thank you for your tips. On my way to order a new diaphragm.
Great video.
I have a trimmer that ran fine with the engine warm, but wouldn't start at all when cold.
I applied the method shock closed (1, 2, 3) -> shock 1/2 (1, 2, 3) -> shock open (1, 2, 3) -> shock 1/2 (1, 2... and the engine came to life!
Thank you very much.
I had one just exactly like that one, I loved it !!!
Bought it for $35.oo at a yard sale, I used it for at least 15 years, it was in two flood's (flood's alot where I live in Rainelle WV) completely submerged in floodwater mind you, it finally started spewing back thru the carb most likely because of a worn out Ring maybe cylinder scoring etc, so I got mad and terminated it (it never came back) but I salvaged the case half's the carb, rod, bearings, Piston, magneto, tube, spool head etc. After 15+ years and two flood's I figured I got my money's worth out of it !!!!
Feather lite !!! I loved it you take care of that weedeater cause there good ones and light to.
Good video and all the best to you SIR.
The best video ever shown on youtube, no one else has ever told you to go into the tank first , he his so right on doing this because you get a lot of problems with fuel lines , blocked fuel filter from the tank, so before every one starts stripping down the carbretter go to the part that feeds the machine always first.i will be watching your videos for ever now on kind regards some one who only buys broken tools and fix them for a hobby but still love watching others fixing them as well , thank you colin from croydon surrey England 👍 👏 ❤ ❤
Thank you Colin!
I had a model older than this one that I love. My sister has difficulty with tools that are too heavy and she actually loved mine and found it easy to use th-cam.com/users/postUgkx_rBCFuDW1zD6blTGhLkvAkxU657uR_lG . This is a newer model but was even lighter which she really appreciates. She enjoys it and I no longer have to go to her house to trim as she can handle it fine. Haven't used it enough to comment on the battery life but lithium batteries last longer than the old style. Being cordless makes it easy to trim the far edges of the property. The entire yard can be trimmed with one charged battery.
Excellent video. I am 79 and still working on small engines since I was 11. I agree completely with what you said about the diaphragms. I am working on a Husqvarna chainsaw but the carburetor is basically the same as a Walbro like what you are working on. One other thing to check is a spark arrestor if your equipment has one. They become clogged and the engine will not rev up.
Cool. Thanks Bill, can you post a photo of that spark arrestor and comment on how to clean it?
@@DoctorFixMaster I watched this video yesterday and attempted to fix it.Its been sitting for several years b/c I just set it aside when it stopped working.For the spark arrestor you have to take both plastic housings off.THen you can see the muffler.IT's held on with 2 springs.Taking a spring off and putting it back on when done was the most challenging part to me.Once you get that spring off you can see the underside of the muffler.The arrestor is just a screen that sticks out of the muffler.You remove the arrestor and I just burned all the deposits off of it.Then reassemble.
@@greendream716 Awesome. Thanks!
Outstanding 'class' and tutorial DoctorFixMaster. I easily repaired my annoying featherlite SST25. It runs like a champ now. Thanks for the easy and no nonsense video. You are great.
Good explanation, no music, easy going , i learned a lot, thanks.
Sir, great. Just great. I looked for a diaphragm for my Walbro WT-1116 but ended up just buying another carburetor for $15, a Hilom 753-06190. Installed new carb as is from the outa the box, no idle adjustments et al, and worked like it did when brand new.
You are the man!
Awesome!!
Thanks for the video. I have a friend that has serviced 2strokes for 34yrs and he says that the petrol quality in OUR COUNTRY is rubbish and he is now using 30 to 1 in all his own personal equipment.
I am doing the same with no drawbacks in all my 2 stroke equipment.
As of yet.
Anyhow its nice that you can help yourself and others keep quality old equipment running well.
Regards Paul
I wish I watched this video sooner, both because of the great advice, but also because I have a Craftsman that looks EXACTLY the same (probably licensed copy or whatever). I had the same experience with the starting quirks on it, it seems like it's prone to flooding if you follow the instructions or the "typical" starting procedure. One of our previous tenants was a pro gardener and he left that and a bigger Husqvarna behind when he moved and I finally got the two of them running after rebuilding and fiddling with the carbs.
Thank you sir!!! The hoses were leaking and that was the issue. Less than $4 fix!!!
thanks man.most people think they can "get by" with the old diaphragm.if its old n crackly, it's shot.thanks for making this.
The remnants around the base of one's pens have no benifit!
Thanks for the instructions on how to fix my weedeater l appreciate your help thanks.thing is l have an added propblem my weedeater is leaking oil please show me how to fix that please thank you.
Excellent video. You focused on the metering diaphragm. When checking the metering diaphragm you should also check the fuel pump diaphragm on the opposite side. Also, I can't agree with you more on the value of using engineered, ethanol-free two-stroke fuel such as TruFuel. I use it exclusively for all my two-stroke equipment to prevent fuel-related problems. Thanks!
Check out Chickanic’s video on canned fuel. The results may surprise you. My 2 strokes run better on non-ethanol fuel mixed with a good quality 2 stroke oil. I don’t like paying around $8 a quart for fuel. I can mix my own right now for around $13 for 2 gallons.
I think this his the best video I've seen because he does say look at the petrol pipe in the tank first, spot on, the pipe in the tank can fail as I've had this many times and not another video tells you this, thank god someone has told you what to look for first kind regards colin evans south london, love it
Hi Dr Fixmaster, Awesome tutorial you've truly convinced me as I've had the same problem time and time again "Magic"👍😊
Good video, thank you for taking the time to make it.
You could buy premix alkylate petrol, like Aspen make, and skip the benzene overdose from forecourt pump fuel. No ethanol in it either. Keeps for years with no additives needed.
My strimmer fuel system and carb diaphragm was totally destroyed by forecourt fuel - even worse now - the ethanol is being increased to 10%. Never using that stuff again.
Good to know. Thanks!
Sometimes you can revive/prolong the diaphragm life with WD-40. Check, clean, or replace fuel filter if fuel delivery is an issue. Use yellow Tygon fuel line for extended life of lines.
I wondered about that. If the weedeater sits over the winter months most diaphrams would be hardened up to some degree. I wondered about how to maintain the diaphram when not in use. That would solve a lot of starting problems
Great video! Your viewers may also want to verify that the fuel tank cap vent hole is not plugged. That can cause problems, also.
Great suggestion. Might just be my issue. I can't keep fuel going to it and can be back pressuring carb. Thanks
When you're 2 cycle is flooded, you can leave it alone, if you have time. Providing that you tilt the engine that allows the fuel on top of the piston, to seep down passed the rings. Or, if you're in a hurry, open the choke, with the switch on, and just keep pulling. Flooding is when the spark plug is so coated with fuel, that there's no spark. Continuously pulling on it, will allow air and some more fuel into the combustion chamber. But the key is more air. You're always gonna get more air than fuel, when the choke is off. But, just keep pulling, and it'll eventually fire, as long as everything else is in proper working order.
IV replaced new carb got spark got compression but I have a fuel starvation but everything is new lines new filter ect new spark plug but won't start why is the carb not chucking up the petrol to engine ? Please any one know
1. Did you replace the carb with one of those POS Amazon carbs? 2. How do you know you have compression? And how much compression do you actually have? 3. Are you sure the fuel lines are connected properly? How do you know they're connected properly?@@robertlevans6336
DoctorFixMaster you’re the man thank you for your video and Tips this will help me save money in my new lawn care business
Great video best one I've seen on this problem
Thanks, I am now more confident in working on my caburator to get my trimmer working.
Thanks, you’ve removed the mystery and trepidation. I’m gloving-up, and going in 🧐
Appreciate your being very thorough man great job thanks for your video brother
Thank you for taking the time to record this tip VERY helpful.
I agree with you, people just throw them away even after a year or two nowadays just like vacuums and etc, like they are disposable, I picked up some great ones at the curb. lol
Excellent video. Very precise. Going to give it a go.
I'm shocked that this one hasn't gotten more traffic! These failures are so common. I'm certain that a lot of people out there go buy new ones when really cheap parts would fix it as good as new.
I wish this had worked for me. Bought a new carb and fuel tank with lines. Still won't start.
@@duallity2403 Sorry to hear that. A whole new carb usually corrects it right away. I have a couple of spares lying around and it makes things easy to swap one out when a diaphragm goes bad and I want a working one quickly. Another thing to check for is a leaky primer bulb. You won't get fuel delivery if your primer bulb has a hole in it. If you're getting fuel, the next thing to check is the spark. Remove the plug and lay it against the engine (with the spark cable still on it) while you pull the starter cord. You should see a spark across the plug gap. If you don't, you'll know you have an electrical problem to trace. Good luck!
@@DoctorFixMaster I changed the carb, spark plug, fuel tank and lines, went and got fresh gas. Nothing. It's not even that old, maybe five years. Any brand recommendations on a new one?
@@duallity2403 Did you do the spark test I mentioned before? I really don't think you're going to need a new one. Sometimes it isn't enough just to change the plug, although I have a couple of extra plugs lying around from my experiments. Those take a very very long time to wear out, especially with a weed wacker. The spark test I mentioned will rule out a spark cable or timing problem too. You should see the spark fire when the cylinder is at the top of the stroke.
@@DoctorFixMaster Did the spark test today. Saw no spark. Replace the cable?
On several Ryobi weedeaters I have a had the same issue and no amount of carb fiddling ro replacement would work. They would start reasonably well from cold and after 20 min of work they would stop and couldnt be restarted. You could see a spark but it was obviously weak. On these machines it was always the magneto coil that would fail causing all of these symptoms. I have a 37 year old Stihl saw and it has never had an ignition problem so I guess quality does pay !
I think you may have solved the issue on both my blower and trimmer. Had issues with both starting yesterday. Going to order some new ones today
Awesome!
@@DoctorFixMaster any recommendation on where to buy parts? Amazon doesn’t have the carb for leaf blower
@@Cbv1914 I've had pretty good luck with eReplacementParts.com. If you have the make and model number, they have diagrams available for choosing the proper part number and ordering it. Good luck!
Great job with this video. You explained everything very well and the camera work was also on point.
Thanks!
Thank you, i feel comfident i can now work on my weed wacker.
A also agree with fuel losing its octane, I guess. It just doesn't seem to last as long as it did before and people say the new additives are not great for small engines, ethanol for one.
E-10 gasoline is the killer of these small engines. And a jug of E-10 sitting in a hot and humid shed has about a month shelf life. Even with the 4 stroke mower engines, the E-10 absorbs so much moisture they corrode the inside of the carbs. And now our government is trying to pass the use of E-15. We're screwed. Fortunately some WAWA gas stations are now selling non-ethanol gas. It's all you should put in a 2 cycle engine ( oil mixed, of course) and any equipment that sees seldom use (pressure washers, hedge trimmers,etc).
Good tips. Thank you for the info and video. Blessings to you.
just straight great ,,good job mate..
Thank you…now i iknow it’s the diaphragm which has to be replaced!
Fine the two small screws on the carb. Find the “ high speed “ adjustment screw and turn it counter clockwise about 1/3 turn. Start and run the trimmer using full throttle for 3-4 second bursts. Adjust some more if it appears “ sluggish “ as yours does. After you get that sorted out. Adjust the other screw ( idle adjustment screw ) to give a smoother idle. You need a special tool for that or you can pull the ink part of an abdicate pen out and use the tip of the pen tube to adjust the screws.
Thanks for the tip. For those models that are adjustable, getting them right can be very tricky, and once they are off kilter, it's very hard to get them back to proper adjustment. I think that's why many manufacturers tune them in now at the factory and don't give users an opportunity to monkey with them.
Thanks for sharing. Great explanation of the process.
I think that running Ethanol gasoline causes the diaphragm to get brittle. I only run non-Ethanol gasoline in my power equipment. It costs a bit more, but it is worth it.
I like your video.. 👍 great job
Also a symptom of a bad diaphragm is not able to pump fuel to carb with primer bulb..
My prime bulb pressurizes but no fuel flows.
@@truenorthmuskoka9077, if it pulls no gas, then either fuel filter or diaphram could be culprit. A gummed up fuel filterf but often a stiff diaphram.
Kevin Shrek yup, diaphragm was not soft and pliable. I was able to get it running but its very rough and now again hard to start. New carb on order.
I had replaced the primer bulb, because it was visibly cracked. I could not get it to prime, could see bubbles coming in as the primer refilled with fuel, but it only filled half way. I kept pushing and pushing, still only half full. Would that be due to the diaphragm? This thing worked good last year, but not been able to get it going this summer.
JavaMan the prime bulb should pull fuel even if you take the carb apart and only have the half that the prime bulb sits on. With the two hoses connected and in the tank or other container it should still draw fuel. Check your fuel line. It could have a small crack or hole. Easiest thing is to replace the fuel line and prime bulb then try again. In my experience and what I learned while repairing mine, the diaphragm does effect fuel going to prime bulb. The bulb wont actually fill completely. It may fill only about 3/4. Press the bulb 3-4 times. This is enough to fill the carb with fuel. If it doesn’t start just put a new carb on. Its so cheap and comes complete.
Hey bro good vid ..God loves you mate ....
Thanks man. :)
I have never had any luck with carburetors on 2 stroke machines. Have always stripped and cleaned them completely, blown out with compressed air with new kits. Sometimes they will run a little then stop even with correct new fuel and settings. Only success is with a new carburetors everytime. I have 2 Featherlite SST25's and other 2 stroke machines
I've had my featherlite plus for at least 15 years. Once I discovered the diaphragm trick, it has been snappy and responsive ever since.
Dont use compressed air to blow out passages in the carbs. Even the pressurized cans of carb cleaner can/will damage the check valves in these carbs. Zama recommends to disassemble the carb and soak the body in fresh non-ethanol gas. I have had to do this as long as overnight to free things up. And no more hot tanking them. Those check valves are very susceptible to damage. And the primers have 2 in them also.
@@steadyeddie7453 Thanks, good to know
I used to go to farm auctions and get good equipment that only need cleaned carbs dirty or rusty mags and coils most weedwhips are 2 cycle and when they sit they clog because of oil i usually run a little straight gas thru mine and run it out till it won't run anymore 👍
Big big help when you're troubleshooting small engine
Thank you so much. Sure enough it was my fuel line.
Happy to help!
Try the fuel filter
Great tips thank you
Interesting video but somewhat curious about your starting problems. About 80% of your experiences are contrary to mine. Most common failure on mine (trimmers and chain saws) is primer bulb (on those with one); second is plastic hoses. I've acquired additional units over the years which needed the preceding. Fortunately, I've never needed to replace a diaphragm. I use pump gas; I've found that good quality 2 cycle oil contains stabilizer and other beneficial additives. My oldest units date to the early '80's. They all have their original spark plugs. Gas in our area is lousy; it's the eco-friendly gov't mandated crap.
Thanks for your inputs. Soft plastic/rubber seems to be a common weak point for both of our machines. It surprises me that someone would use their tools as much as you have with no diaphragm issues, but then again, my video is for my Weedeater Featherlite and other designs might not suffer in the same way. I hear you about the gas, which is why I always buy fresh gas from Lowe's in the quart bottles, high octane, that have never failed me. I have no problems with eco friendly, in spite of inconvenience to me. The earth will only take care of us as well as we take care of it.
@@DoctorFixMaster At one time I used high octane gas in my yard equipment thinking I was being beneficial. At some point, (back in the '70's) , contrary to my belief at the time,I learned that high octane gas not only is not better for yard equipment, or even benign compared to regular, it is detrimental and have used low test since. I have had to replace diaphragms on my old style B&S lawn mowers. Doing good for the earth is a wonderful goal but is quite subjective. They destroyed 50 acres of forest nearby to build a solar farm. Back in the '70's the we were pressured to 'save the planet, plant a tree'. Now people are getting court judgments to force neighbors to cut down trees which shade their solar panels.
@@65csx83 Saving the environment can be tricky and people get that wrong all the time, but we'll all be dead sooner if we don't try, or keep pretending it can be ignored while we spread across the land consuming everything like a virus colony that attempts to grow until it's unfortunate host dies. But that's another topic for another day. Thanks for your insights. I'd like to hear more details about why the higher octane TruFuel from Lowe's is so bad. The stuff has worked wonderfully for me because it comes in small batches and is always fresh, not to mention premixed in the right ratio for me, so it's much less of a hassle.
The ethanol is a problem. It attracts water and dissolves rubber etc. Try using the specialist fuels like Aspen2 or the Stihl/Husky equivalent.
So I bought rebuild kit...took carb apart. The screen was clogged. Hit with carb cleaner and air. Nope. Put new screen in. Cleaned every orifice.... works
I never leave my 15-years old Weed Eater standing with gasoline in the system. Empty the fuel tank then start the motor and allow it to run out of gasoline before retiring the Weed Eater for the season. Fuel lines, diaphragm, and venturi remain dry and pliable for years rather than months.
That's an excellent idea. Thanks for the tip!! That probably didn't occur to me because I live in Arizona and use mine all year long. :D
@Hank Bridges Two cycle oil is just two cycle oil. It's pretty standard, and premixed fuel in the right ratio for your machine is just fine. I've never seen specific types of two cycle oil, so premixed fuel is just fine for most machines. I'll never use anything else. I have far less trouble with mine by using the premixed fuel in small batches rather than doing a gallon myself that sits around for two years waiting for me to use it all. The premixed fuel in small batches guarantees that you're always using a fresh fuel/oil mixture and that keeps my machine very happy.
Gasket placement thanks. Waiting on adjustment tools. But it runs
Thank you!
If you are doing a carb video and can't start your equipment because it is flooded you should watch a video on how to pressure test and set up a carb, you also don't have to wait a half hour to start it. Just use full throttle no choke.
Most people don't have a pressure testing setup, including me, but it's great info to have if diaphragm surgery doesn't work and your fuel lines and bulbs are in good shape. Thanks!
One thing I had to learn the hard way was the importance of the piston pulse port. Make sure ur gaskets are on properly. Just a little side note
Definitely if all the gaps and holes are not lined up and in the right place, you'll break things. What does the piston pulse port do? I'm guessing it provides some pressurized gas to either actuate the metering diaphragm or provide some other key function. Can you clue us in specifically on what it's for?
@@DoctorFixMaster I was told the pulse is what activates the pump in the carb.
Keyword is pulse. No pulse no fuel. Dead. It's hell on a new carb. Lol. Talk about a head scratcher. Turned the intake gasket around and ahhhhh the sound I was wanting to hear.
It sounds like it needs to be tuned. Its bogging down as it revs up. Also vibrating pretty heavily at idle too. It has High and Low speed jets to get it smooth throughout the RPM range. They are the two most important screws on the engine.
No doubt, but the carburetors they are selling nowadays have no adjustment screws. They are factory tuned to one setting, most likely because people monkey with them and put them out of operating range. Then you can fix everything wrong with the machine and it still won't start and you'll have no path back to what works besides very time consuming experimentation and frustration. If people mess with mix screws, they had better mark their original positions before they touch anything so they can put them back if it doesn't work.
@@DoctorFixMaster The Cali carbs don't have mixture screws because some states have stricter emissions regs. But on the East coast we get them all day long with mixture adjustment screws. Maybe the vendor is required to sell these Cali compliant carbs to certain zip codes? In any case, 1-1/4 turn out on the Low and 3/4 turn out on the High will most always get them started. Tune as needed from there.
@@steadyeddie7453 Good to know. Someone out there is going to monkey with those screws on top of other problems and won't be able to get back to where they were. It helps to know where they should be so you can always revert them back to where you know they should work. :)
@@DoctorFixMaster If anything has an adjustment people are going to mess with it. I work on these every day, and come to youtube late at night to get the general pulse of whats going on out there in the lawn and garden equipment world. For an indepth explaination of how a Walbro carb works go to Jay Goulds video. Except for one small omission, he nails it. Cheers
Very good... new subscriber
Metering lever. It gets pushed down by the diaphragm. When it does it pulls the needle valve out and feeds gas. There, it's that simple.
You're welcome. DIY videos are for everyone, and crafted as such. Not just for people who spend time watching them so they can turn around and pretend to be be experts. It's that simple.
I live in Arizona and I had the problem like you and I went to Ace by a gum out sprayed and I clean all surface of the engine. The weed eater turned on again.
Anything that cleans out the carb will probably help, but I think spray will only give marginal improvements to a crusty diaphragm. It's easy enough to replace those every couple of years.
Thanks you’re video
Good job
Thank you brother
If it runs for awhile, you know the timing and electrical is fine. You have a fuel delivery issue, most likely. Check all the things in this video. It's likely your problem lies there. Try not to overchoke it either. You could be getting too much.
Great informative vid. Quick question are these diaphragms standard for the featherlite models? My unit starts but sounds like its starving for fuel at full throttle.
Yes sir. Standard for all featherlites. I'm willing to bet that 90% of weedeater problems are diaphragms & tank hoses.
@@DoctorFixMaster thanks for the info. I removed my air filter and observed that when priming there is 1 squirt of fuel into the carb and even though I continue pressing the priming bulb no more fuel squirts into the carb. Could this be a blockage on the priming bulb side?
@@sa22c7 It could be, yes. When you pump the primer bulb there should be fuel circulating between the carb and the gas tank, which is why there are two hoses to the tank, one to suck up the gas and the other to dump it back in the tank. Every component must be nice and clean to work properly, and the diaphragm must be soft and flexible. Check the hoses and the bulb itself for holes or small cracks, or blockages. If those conditions are met, it will fix most problems.
@@DoctorFixMaster Forgot to ask where did you get the diaphragm? Most of what I have seen online is not the square type but the type with a notch on on end.
@@sa22c7 Mine was a Walbro 95-526. Those are pretty easy to order online for not much money. You can get them from ebay, Amazon, or any number of online retailers.
My prime bulb pressurizes but no fuel flows. Is the prime chamber plugged? Any suggestions how to unclog it.
You can take it apart and spray it out with carb cleaner. Make sure the little microscreen in there is nice and clean. Check the diaphragm for stiffness per this video. Good luck!
Hank Bridges I agree it was partly that. I replaced the entire carb. Too many issues with it. Cheap repair and works great.
i think my most common failure to start issue is forgetting to turn off the kill switch, i try to switch it right back to on after using it but i still dont always remember if i didnt so i just keep tugging on the start rope for forever until i wear myself out.... then once im all worn out i remember why, is because i left the kill switch on again.
Yeah that sucks. Some models have kill switches that are spring loaded, and you have to hold it down to kill the engine. As soon as you release it, it goes back to operating mode, ready for the next run. :)
Bought a electric clipper this.
Haven t looked back
Tony your in Az so am I do you do repairs ? If so maybe I should just bring it to you and have you fix it.
I haven't done that before, but I'm not opposed to helping you fix it. Send me an email at doctorfixmaster@gmail.com and tell me what it's doing, it's make and model number, and roughly how old it is, and I can lead you through the repair process, or make other arrangements if that isn't successful.
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. Yesterday, I installed a new carburetor on Homelite trimmer, and it started working but stalled after 10 minutes. Started again, did the same. Today, adjusted the idle screw and it stalled again. Fuel is one day old. I checked the muffler screen and found it good. Any idea why it is stalling? are there any adjustments to keep it running? What should be the limit for idle screw adjustment? Do I rotate the screw clockwise fully in and back-off 2 turns? how do I get correct idle speed?
The latest Walbro carbs I've purchased have no carb adjustment. I wouldn't recomment messing with those unless you're very careful to mark the factory default position of the screen. If it's stalling after running 10 min, I'd check the integrity of your fuel hoses in the tank next.
@@DoctorFixMaster Thanks. Integrity meaning cut or damage? I notice a slight leak of gas thru the hole on the tank where the hose comes out. This shouldn't cause the stalling. correct?
@@orkayen That's right, the hoses into the tanks need to be in good condition. You can watch the hoses while the unit operates to make sure the machine isn't sucking air and dying.
@@DoctorFixMaster I was looking for "air supply". I noticed that I had a wrong hose connection. Unknowingly, I had connected hose with fuel filer onto the carburetor "return /outlet" and the other hose (short one) to the inlet. Since, the short one was above the fuel, I think air was getting in or fuel was not getting in. I changed the connection and going to try during my next edging. Hopefully, it fixes the stalling.
@@orkayen Yep, that would do it. I hope it works well for you now.
Been running a Husqyvarna 128 hard for a month. Only 4 months old. Started running rough and now will start but only run in half choke and bogs down when moved to run. YOur video is very informative but seems to speak to older units. Any ideas?
Hi mark, iam using my wife's TH-cam channel so my name isn't Sandy lol. Anyways I would check screen on exhaust , when they plug up it restricts the exhaust flow and the motor runs poorly with very little power. If not that the factory settings for the mixture on carb need to be adjusted. Some of the adjusting screws are hidden and some are exposed with plugs covering the screws. The hidden ones are usually straight down where the lobe is, it turns and is where the idle screws rests against. There will be a small plug that will have to be removed to get access to screw. Right in the centre also check your fuel lines they tend to break or get brittle very quickly. I think it's the mix because your running on choke in order to keep it running. Hope this helps!
Thank you. My string is blocked I can’t pull it what will the problem be?
Impossible to say without taking it apart. Probably debris, or an old frayed cord, or a weird twist that has come off of the spool.
If you don't mind me sending a little bit of information your way? I will start by telling you that I am very knowledgeable about 2-stroke engines! I own about a hundred of them and half of them are my chainsaw collection, The other half of them are lawnmowers and weed wackers and blowers. First off, You should never put regular gasoline in a 2-stroke! They detonate bad and especially the hotter the temperature is the worse it happens.Second thing, Your on the right track using the canned fuel, But try using the 50:1 enstead of the 40:1 and it will start easier and won't fowl the plug as bad. And if it is cold weather i take the plug out and heat up the electrode and ground strap for a few seconds and shoot one small shot of starting fluid in the cylinder and replace the sparkplug. You never put full choke on or your not getting any oxygen in to the cylinder which is what makes a fire burn if I'm not mistaken 😋
Thanks for the tips Tony!
Our park just purchased the coocher brush cutter. It was just delivered July 27, 2022. Today is August 2, 2022. The pulley system is not working. The spring sprung and no longer intact and is outside of the machine, therefore the pulley is not retracting the pull string. What do we need to do to fix, repair or replace. Thanks.
The answer to this depends a great deal on what kind of machine the coocher brush cutter is. In my experience fixing a machine that is almost new is a far better bet than starting from square one and buying something brand new again, unless your experience with it reveals a critical design flaw that will have it breaking over and over again. I'm not sure of the specifics with this machine you speak of, and can't possibly say without having a look at it. If it were me, I'd try to understand what went wrong and why. Once you're there, the right course should be pretty clear, and if you have to buy new, you'll be armed with new information about what not to buy. Good luck.
I have a craftsman weedwracker a zama carb on I rebuild the carb now it don't suck gas up when you prime it only half
You have to be very careful to reassemble it exactly the same way. Any misplaced or incorrectly installed component can render your carburetor non-functional.
Thank you
In my opinion anyone not using trufuel is not trying to solve their 2 and 4 cycle problems. Pump fuel is a problem creator period. These repair shops make a living off of pump fuel users in the spring.
I been working on 2 strokes for years (boat and jet ski world) and those trufeul is over rated I feel. I get ethanol-free pump gas and use the preferred company's oils and there is no need to work on the carb. Only thing it needs the e free that canned fuel is just too too much.
@@costasgeorgiou5015 When you buy premium fuel, if after selecting premium you don't pump the first half gallon or so in a different container you can't be sure you are getting clean premium. (ethanol free) My Cub Cadet dealer told me that orders right from the Cub Cadet home office stated that pump fuel is not a suggested fuel source for 2-4 cycle engines. I got fed up with going thru a few machines each year in my lawn care business. Since going to trufuel I haven't lost a machine in three years. Does trufuel cost more, not compared to buying new lawn care machines. Plus the trufuel machines generally start on the first pull unlike pump fuel machines. You say you work on you own machines, try paying a shop for your work and compare the difference. I appreciate your reply to my comment(s).
Could you kindly show us step by step on how a carburettor is assembled.
That's a good idea for another video. I'm seeing a bunch of videos already posted that cover this topic in great detail.
So you can buy just the diaphragm gasket type assy? If so do you buy it from manufacturer? Should you spray the carburetor while it’s somewhat apart w carb cleaner ?
Yes, you can purchase just the diaphragm kits. There are a lot of different online parts dealers. Spraying out the carb with cleaner is a great idea to clean out all the passages and screens.
I bought a new weedeater and used it 3 or 4 times and now it want start for nothing. Have tried everything but the gas line thing. Will try it. Seems like I have to buy a new one every season a d hard to fine anybody to work on them
How much time goes by between uses is important. You want to start with new gas every season. They need fresh fuel, and it's best to store them for the winter without any fuel in the tank, so run the fuel out on your last trim job of the season. The other items covered in this video is a good bet for why your weedeater won't start, especially if your machine is relatively new and not used that much. Good luck!
@@DoctorFixMaster Thanks for the help. I use it just about every week. I weedeat quite a bit. I guess I expect a new one to last awhile.
For the trimmer I have, I can't find just the diaphragm part anywhere. They just sell the whole carburator.
It isn't bad to have a spare carburetor lying around as a spare. You can spend as much time as you want taking it apart (if possible) and replacing broken components in its inner working.
@@kentlawrence8204 What's your experience with the fuel filters that some carburetor kits include? Do they help or are they useless. Or do they even work at all?
@@democrazy69 If a fuel filter is part of the carburetor, as long as you know where it is and what it is supposed to do, you can monitor it to keep it clean. My weedeater has only a coarse filter screen inside it. Most of the actual fuel filtering is done with the ceramic filter on the fuel intake hose in the gas tank. As long as the screen is clean, it should work just fine.
Thanks! If you were using your weed eater for 1/2 hour with no problems at all, and then the very next day it won't start or even attempt to start, and you've checked the spark, fuel lines, plug, and know (from the wet plug) that fuel is getting in, would the diaphragm still be your first guess?
If you've already checked the electrical and you know you're getting a spark (you should be able to see it visually if you pull it out, attach the cable, hold the plug against the metal body of the machine, and pull the starter cord), then fuel delivery is probably your issue. Remember you need a proper fuel air mixture and not just liquid gas. It's really easy to flood these machines when trying to start them by overchoking them. Start lean by not even using the choke or the throttle. Sometimes that makes a big difference. Give it a few pulls and try it again with more and more throttle, then more and more choke until you hear it sputter. Then you know you're close to the sweet spot and you can remember it the next time you go to start it. If none of that works and you're using fresh fuel, a new diaphragm is a cheap experiment. If it's more than a year or so old, it might be time to swap it out anyway. I hope that's helpful.
@@DoctorFixMaster Thanks. A simple flooding issue was what i was hoping for. I even took the plug out and let th air circulate through the combustion chamber for a few hours, but still nothing. I'd ordered a replacement carb from ebay, as they are surprisingly cheap. I would try to just replace the diaphragm but my track record for taking carbs apart without losing a piece is pretty dismal, so for $12 USD, a new carb seems a good thing to have. Its just so weird that the machine went from 100% to ZERO overnight. :-(
@@randy_constan That is pretty strange. You used it, shut it off, and a day later it won't start? Was it hard to start the last time you used it, or did it fire right up?
@@DoctorFixMaster No, there was no problem the day before. 3 pulls to get it to sputter on full choke, started right up at 1/2, moved to full 10 seconds later with no problem. Even tried spraying a little fuel into the open carb hoping for at least some change. Maybe the new carb will help. Meantime, open to any suggestions.
@@randy_constan It's not a bad thing to have an extra carb around. You can service it and clean it up on your own time without interrupting your ability to use the machine. While you're in there you might spot the culprit: gummed up fuel screen or other component is a likely culprit. I'd take it apart and clean it up really well with carb cleaner and put a new diaphragm in that one too. Then you'll have one ready to go the next time you have any trouble.
My Toro 51944 ran fine until I replaced the cracked primer bulb. Now nothing. Spark is there but not a hint of running. Tried starter fluid and dripping gas through carb and plug hole. Cleaned exhaust/muffler. Primer bulb is pulling fuel through the carb and spitting it back in to the tank like it should. WTF?
One thing I have found is that if I try to start it and there is too much fuel, it chokes and then forget about starting it. Then it has to sit for sometime before I can even try starting it again. Take the filter cover off and give it an hour or so. Then the next time you attempt to start it, don't apply any choke or get all over the gas right away. It's far better to start with not enough fuel delivery and then ease into a more rich mixture to get it going than to hit it with a rich mixture that is too much right away. That way there isn't a recovery time for fuel to evaporate out of the carb. If that doesn't work, you may have to double check all the items I go over in this video to make sure all your ducks are in a row.
Melanie- did you resolve your no start after primer bulb replacement? Did you reverse the fuel lines? If it ran fine before the bulb replacement, and now won't start, I would focus on your repair.
I got the wrong version of the replacement carb. It has two brass inlet lines. My weedeater didn’t have a priming bulb and only one fuel connection. Is that what connects to the second brass inlet?
One of those brass inlets is for the fuel hose that pulls fuel from the tank. The other one is a return to the tank so that when you press the priming bulb, fuel washes over the carburetor components so they're in the right place when you pull start it. I might not be much good giving advice about carburetors without priming bulbs. I think those are pretty rare anymore.
i just inherited an entire lot of this brand, blower hand trimmer and the wt3100 trimer you have. I have to replace the fuel lines but I'm a weee lost on which port the fuel line is on the carb and the starter line for the starter bubble fuel? I'm running the same carburetor .
If you have the same machine as me the pipes you put the fuel hoses on are slightly different sizes and receive different size lines. On mine, the hose closest to the bulb (the fatter one) is the one that dumps into the tank. The skinnier one further from the bulb is the actual fuel line from the tank to the carb. I hope that helps. Good luck!
Hey Mr fix master. I dropped my echo in my pond while running. Now it will not crank, not even try to crank. Got fuel, spark , compression. Any idea what might be wrong?
@@comanchejr921 Hard to say what might be wrong with it, but if you are getting fuel and spark it should run if all you did was drop it in water. Something is probably up with the fuel or spark. If you remove the plug & connect the terminal and hold it against the metal body of the machine, you should see a spark there when you pull the starter handle. If it doesn't spark, you have a water induced short somewhere. If spark is good, you need to make sure that all water is out of the fuel and the fuel lines. Remove the carburetor and open it up and let it dry out for a few days with the bulb removed.. Start with brand new fuel in case some water got in there. Water got in somewhere and broke it. Get that water out and it should be fine. Good luck!
@@DoctorFixMaster thanks, yea I believe it’s the carb.
12 year's on single brush cutter 🤔
Wondering How many hours do you use that thing per year.
Hard to say, but I live in Arizona where I'm using it all year long. On Bermuda grass in the summer and Rye grass in the winter. Every week or two.
My friend told me about the little screen yrs ago. I always pull it out and clean underneath it now. It will start but wont take acceleration
New carburetor assemblies are not that expensive. You can bolt on a brand new one while you take the other one apart and give it a good cleaning with carburetor cleaner and replace the diaphragm. Then you'll have a spare ready to go when the other one finally gums up and the diaphragm stiffens.
@@DoctorFixMaster I have bought new ones. Also I only run the non ethanol mixes now
I cleaned my carb and it still doesn’t work. It works when I spray carb cleaner in for about 20 seconds. I’m gonna try this next. My pos murray sux so much Thanks for the tips
If it works briefly with carb cleaner, you've already proven you have spark and timing. Fuel delivery is your issue and a new diaphragm stands a very good chance of correcting the problem. Good luck!
DoctorFixMaster can you tell me where I could get one for a Murray 2510 ? I can only seem to find new carbs
@@johnmartin5153 I poked around online and found that the M2510 has a carburetor part number 753-06190, and I found one parts website that indicated that this is just a Walbro WT-973 carburetor. You may want to double check that before you buy a replacement diaphragm, but diaphrams for that Walbro carburetor should be easy to find for just a few bucks.
DoctorFixMaster thanks so much doc !!!
I’ve got an odd one: it’s a Murray 25cc, basically the same. When I attempt to start it, I press the primer 10x, choke it on full, I get a few quick fires, and then it dies. It will not restart.....period. I try different choke settings and try to clear out a flood in case.
It has a new spark plug, I checked it, it sparks beautifully, check the fuel lines, checked the primer bulb, all looks good and cycles fuel. Disassembled the carb, everything looks good, diaphragm, jets, chambers are all clear. I removed the muffler, that’s clear. I’ve even tried to shoot a shot of starter fluid and not even a pop. I took off and isolated the kill switch. I took off the back cover and inspected what I could see of the cylinder and piston, appears ok. It has compression holding my finger over the spark plug hole. Everything is optimal, but no start. It has always been a hard start, but started. I’ve dialed in the hi-lo screws when it used to run, and it ran and idled great and started right back up when warm. AND..brand new fuel and flushed the old. I’m at my wits end. Ideas?
Sounds like you've covered your bases. Does your carb allow you to change the fuel/air mix or is it permanently set at the factory (no screws)? If your diaphragm is more than 2 years old, I'd replace it.They are cheap and the first thing to go. All they have to do is get a little stiff and you'll start having problems.
dezdon01- Did you figure out the problem? I noticed you were very detailed in your start-up procedure, but I didn't see you mention that you squeezed the throttle trigger fully when trying to start on full choke. Are you doing this? The engine needs a wide open throttle valve when the choke is closed. If you "get a few quick fires, then it dies", I would pull the spark plug. Is it wet? Yes= flooded= too much fuel, not enough air. Keep that trigger squeezed. Good luck.
i have the exact same weed eater, thanks buddy
hi my diaphgram is okej but it just gets too much fuel in like crazy
I didn’t haven the correct gas when it ran out. I tired my own gas/car oil mix and it won’t start. Could that be my problem?
Possibly. You normally use two cycle oil for that. I'm not sure what running with regular oil in the mix might do. I would think not much, but I could be wrong about that. Perhaps the proof is in the pudding if it won't start. I'd flush it out and start over with a new carb diaphragm and the right fuel mix. Only then can you debug the problem the rest of the way. Good luck!
What model was the weed eater feather lite plus u was working on
As far as I know, that is the model. Weedeather Featherlite Plus. That's it.
Hi I was wondering if you know a quick and cheap way to replace the bolts that hold the choke in place they snapped in the middle of operating on my weed eater on the second ever use and I’ve only had it for about a month any ideas
I'd do a part search for the screws. Weed Eater is a significant brand and parts are available. Good luck!
Why when I press the primer bulb to prime the weed eater,won't come back,it stays in?
That indicates a carb that is all gummed up and clogged. Take it apart, spray everything out with carb cleaner, replace the diaphragm & primer bulb if necessary and try again. If it's clean, there's no reason everything should work fine and deliver needed fuel.
Hello sir i have a stihl bruscutter Fs 280 ,have cleaned the carborateur and wen full tank gas he work good wen is it one kwater of fuel gas in the thank is biginging boxdow. Til it dies. So what can it happened sir.have put new carb kit on it.
If it works with a full tank, that is a significant clue and says there is nothing wrong with your carburetor. Check your fuel delivery...ie your filters and hoses from the tank to the carb. I bet your problem is there.
hi there my strimmer run's for 5 sec then it run's out can you help mate.
just watched another video and the diaphragm (per other video) goes on body then gasket so which is correct?
What I showed is exactly how my carb was built, with the diaphragm between the gasket and the cover. If anyone has any doubts though, they can swap the gasket and the diaphragm and see if it still works.
Gasket on last I'm pretty sure
If carburetor diaphragm in my Toro is bad, could that cause fuel to run straight through and fill up combustion chamber while trimmer is laying on the ground. That’s happening and I don’t know what else could cause this.
It's a guarantee that if your diaphragm is too stiff or ruptured, your machine won't work. Liquid fuel in the cylinder might happen from more than one different kind of failure, but I'd guess a bad diaphragm is a good first bet, since it is a relatively fragile component when contrasted with the other metal parts in there.
DoctorFixMaster : Thank you very much .I’m assuming if I can get a new carburetor for my 16 year old machine that it should handle anything causing fuel flooding the combustion chamber. I can’t justify much more money in a machine with limited parts available, but after looking at the newer Toros, they have cheapened them up so much that I don’t want to part with “old faithful”. I already have new gas tank, fuel filter, air filter. The diaphragm was stuck to the gasket behind it, and I put it back together that way as I didn’t think at that time that there would be any chance of getting those parts. That’s when the gas started to seem to run straight thru filling up combustion chamber.
Thank you very much,
H.Marquis
H Marquis- Did you resolve your problem with flooding? 2 possibilities. The pump diaphram on the opposite side of the carb from the metering diaphram has gone bad. A gasket kit will fix that. Or, one of the check valves in the carb has gone bad, which is easiest to fix with a new carb. But dont keep pulling on a flooding engine. It will hydrostatic lock and you'll shear the flywheel pin.
Where do you get the Diaphragms for the top or bottom?
I'm only familiar with one diaphragm. There wasn't a top or bottom one, it was just the one I showed in the video. It seems to me there should only be one, but I could be wrong about that. It's just a simple mechanism for pumping fuel, so I can't think of any reasons for needing more than one of those. That isn't to say there aren't fancier designs out there that have cleverly concocted improvements requiring two. :)
@@DoctorFixMaster One side of the carb has the metering diaphragm, and the opposite side has a pump diaphragm. The pump diaphragm looks like it is made from mylar and uses two reed style valves to control fuel flow.