Thank you! I have a 2010 Legacy 2.5i - I just did for the 2nd time - I didn't lift the engine but wanted to add that the hardest one is the plug closest to the driver steering wheel - there is not enough room to fit the 5.5 inch extension with spark plus socket - you'll need to use a 2 1/2 inch extension with a universal joint to give you enough room to remove the plug. first put in the socket then put in the 2.5 inch extension with the universal joint attached - then push it down to fit on the plug. Maybe if I lifted the engine I wouldn't have to do it this way but it works! Just saved $100 and I know it was done right. I didn't do it last time and found that plug wasn't even hand tight when I removed it! By the way I bought it new and it now has 220,000 miles! I use Mobil1 full synthetic with Mobil 1 filter and change it every 10,000miles
Just did mine on my own without raising the engine as well and it wasn't bad at all. It took me about an hour and a half and im sure it'll go much smoother next time. The universal joint was definitely necessary. I found it easier to work on the passenger side with a long extension and the universal joint so that you're not hitting that hose near the air filter housing. I took the air filter and snorkel out and that gave me way more clearance. Mr Subaru has a video where he chsnges the spark plugs on a Crosstrek which has the same engine as our 5th gen legacy. Thanks to your comment and his video, I got it done! First time ever doing spark plugs and it feels great.
I did my spark plugs also. I would add to his advice when you are undoing the engine mounts leave the nuts threaded on just a little so that the engine does not come off of the bolts. It's really hard to get back on. Other wise it's really easy and lifting the engie did make it easier and only takes a couple extra min.
I showed my daughter how to change plugs on her 2013 Forester last week. We did NOT do the motor mount/raise engine thing. We did buy a 14mm magnetic spark plug wrench with built-in swivel for $15, that helped. I had never done this on a Subaru before. We removed the airbox on the passenger side, and on the driver side we removed the battery.
Really nice job on the video. It's nice to see someone stick to the subject. Too many in here go off on silly tangents or think they're late night show hosts. Keep up the good work my friend.
I just did my 2013 Outback today. I didn't end up tilting the engine up with a jack; I wanted to try it without that step first, and I was able to do all 4 plugs. I removed the mostly same parts off the Air intake as you did, and I took the battery out. My 3/8 three inch wobble extension and my 1/4 inch swivel universal extension were the most useful. I wrapped duct tape around the swivel universal to make it like a wobble extension; this was used on the Driver's side rear with a 1/4 ratchet and adapter to 3/8 drive 14mm deep socket. That coil BTW easily came out by gently pulling the head to the front and up. I was able to do the other 3 plugs with the 3inch wobble 3/8 extension adapted to a 1/4 drive ratchet. If my 3/8 ratchet was hinged I would have been able to use it on all but the drivers side rear. I didn't torque the new plugs; I did the 1/4 turn after snug method. The old plugs at 70k were fine. A hinged ratchet would have been nice. Job took me about an hour and a half of actual work time. Thanks for your video; its videos like yours that can inspire the confidence for DIY.
I just got done doing mine after watching this video. I took me a little less than an hour. And yeah jacking the engine about an inch was deff a huge help. A little scary putting the jack on the oil pan that it might get bent but it all worked out good. Thanks for the video!
I'm not sure. I know it sounds crazy to go on the pill plan but that's how everyone with subarus do. There is a special ratchet you can buy but I can't think of the name. Its like a really thin ratchet . A TH-camr mr.subaru has a few past about them.
Good video but heads up. As 1 who worked as a tech for several years, worked at Oreillys and now I manage a shop. You should ALWAYS check the gap on plugs. Yes maybe set at factory but during shipping and such I’ve seen them be as much as 4 thousands out
Good video, thanks man. Just finished install and didn't need to jack up the engine. I'm sure it makes it easier but if you don't have large hands and have the right extensions it can be done.
Great video. I just got my Subaru, private seller. I would check the gap on plugs. If they are dropped, or banged around, it is possible the gap is off. Mine were probably ok, but I wanted to be sure.
I just replaced the spark plugs on 2015 Subaru Legacy. Tools needed were: 3/8 inch socket ratchet 10MM wrench for battery hold-down bolts 14MM socket with 10 inch extension for battery plate (6 bolts in total, 2 on the inside between engine and wheel well that were the hardest to remove and put back due to lack of clearance). I spent more time removing and putting back these 2 inner bolts than replacing the 4 spark plugs. Why did Subaru put 6 bolts to secure the battery box (steel bracket underneath the plastic battery tray). I used a 1/2 inch drive ratchet (18 inch) and socket as they were torqued to tight. 10MM wrench for spark plug coil bolts 9/16 spark plug socket and 2 inch extension, remove the spark plugs. The driver side back spark plug had a little less clearance so used a 3/8 flex extension to loosen the plug and remove it. Replacement was the reverse. A swivel head extension would work as well.
I won't change it until mpg goes down or any other signs . Iridium is supposed last like 100k in normal daily driving situation. That 60k schedule seems like bonus and attractive money making strategy for subaru dealers giving by Subaru America. We can obviously see that old sparkplag is pretty much in good shape in this video.
Not saying you need to change them until something indicates it needs changing/checking, but note that original valve cover gasket is defective, so my spark plugs had oil on them at like 60k miles. So that's one reason you might end up needing to change them sooner than 100k ish
I just replaced mine yesterday my engine was misfiring cylinders 3&4 i replaced the PCV valve that did not make a big diff but for anyone that is having issues with their Subaru like misfires etc Try replacing the coil pack and the spark plugs if that does not work try PCV valve or you could be getting a bad mixture in the cylinders
Sweet. I didnt raise the engine and managed without. But I could see why you would, the added inch would have made a difference. Less cussing and less time for sure.
I also have a 2013 Legacy .. has only 45,000 miles on it right now, but it IS 7 years old. Recommended change point is 60,000 miles, but I wonder if time has any bearing on changing? They also recommend oil changes for "full synthetic" 0W-20 every 7500 miles. I don't even put on 7500 miles in a year. I've seen YT videos which show that synthetic oil is perfectly fine even after 2 years of use. Watching you change the spark plugs ... seems a bit beyond me and my minimal tools, so when the time comes, I'll probably have the dealer (or some other place) do it. I still have original battery (7 yrs old) and she starts right up every time, but I think I should probably replace it before next Winter. Still have original tires, and front brakes (rear calipers corroded, locked up and burned up the pads/rotors, so I had to have them replaced). Over all, very happy with my Subaru Legacy. I'd owned 3 Saturns prior to buying the Legacy back in April 2013. Nice video .. Cheers!
Very informative and helpful video. Thanks for helping me save $$$ I'd recommend cleaning the throttle body too. I did it today and it drives a lot smoother, accelerates better, and starts easily.
The jack seemed to be lifting the car more than the engine mounts. Might have been easier to remove the battery although you do have to make changes with the i-set settings. (mine's a 2020 Subaru Outback) from the factory default settings. Torque wrench settings for the spark plugs is 13.3 ft-lb (or 18 N-m).
Not a bad video, thank you. I tried lifting the engine, wasn’t a fan. To get to the plugs on the passenger front I had to take all the air assembly apart. I know the plugs were already gapped, but what should the gap be? I measured .039.
You can definitely try without lifting it but it is crazy tight! The engine is really easy to lift also since the mounts are right in the open and in a pretty rust free zone.
Dude, i tried taking out bolt on driver side without lifting. I was ready to park my car in the middle of the street and abandon it. It was so $%&#ing difficult. Subaru and their boxer engines. Aargh. Moral of the story lift your engine. Lol
The driver's side should be no problem by taking the battery out. I presume it's the passenger side that's a nightmare? Is it THAT bad with a swivel/universal joint? Also did you take an panels off when you lifted the car (like you need to do when doing an oil change or coolant flush)?
Josh Isralowitz passenger side was easy after the air box is out the driver side is harder because there are some metal cooling lines in the way of my ratchet. Lifting the engine was not bad though made it lot easier
I am troubleshooting my 2010 Legacy 2.5i BM9 (Japanese model) and trying to determine the location of cylinder 4 due to fault P0304. Can you help me out?
So judging by how you can pretty well fit your whole fist in between their frame rail in the block I'm guessing there are no videos out there for my Turbo Legacy 2.5. It is just psychotic how little of room you have between the head and the frame on the Legacy GT. I can't even fit a 3
Three eighth inch ratchet in, I have to use a quarter inch. And then trying to get the damn coil pack back on the plug is literally enough to go insane over.
Thanks. I did replace the air filter, but was planning on doing a separate video on that. The plugs are NGK which are trivelant plated. It is supposed to act as a release agent when removing later on, so they specifically say not to use anti-seize. I have never really had an issue with spark plugs seizing.
Michael I do question NGK's "anti-seize coating". Maybe this is partly why Subaru wants very expensive/high quality spark plugs changed every 60k miles (I had to put in a little elbow grease to get mine out at about 61k, which is kinda scary considering if something breaks you go from a $150 job to god knows how much to get a broke plug out.) Well, that and the crap valve cover gasket that's bound to be defective at 60k :\
Nice video well done. I have my first subaru its a 2014 legacy love the can have never worked on one be for will be back to check out more videos and subscribe. Thanks
Cool Stuff Guys Like I'm excited to get into I have always done my own work and one of the reasons I got a subaru was to learn new car stuff. Always have had gm for the most part
After changing plugs on my 2010 legacy 2.5i premium with 2.5l engine my check engine light is on ( not flashing), cruise light and traction light. Any ideas why? Someone suggested I clear memory by disconnecting negative cable, touching positive cable with it then letting it sit for 15 minutes...... I just want any vehicle with a Chevy 350, carburetor and filter on top. I hate these new cars...
It actually worked. I removed negative battery terminal a touched the positive terminal with it then let it sit for 15 minutes. Hooked it back up and started engine. Engine light , cruise and traction light were off. Probably could have avoided it by removing negative terminal before I started.... Lesson learned.
I won't change it until mpg goes down or any other signs . Iridium is supposed last like 100k in normal daily driving situation. That 60k schedule seems like bonus and attractive money making strategy for subaru dealers giving by Subaru America. We can obviously see that old sparkplag is pretty much in good shape in this video.
That's what you get when you put an airplane engine into a car! These are great little cars until the catalytic converters clog- $1200 x 3 plus labor! I'm on my 7th Subaru, and never made it past 160,000 without cat problems.
can't do anything about it. the spark plugs are located where the cylinders are. The cylinders in a boxer are down low and on the sides. you get a nice benefit by having this engine but have to put up with a bit of difficulty. can't have it all.
![[HOW TO] Replace Spark Plugs on 2013 Subaru Legacy 2.5i (Easy)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bTuECXGMgx0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you! I have a 2010 Legacy 2.5i - I just did for the 2nd time - I didn't lift the engine but wanted to add that the hardest one is the plug closest to the driver steering wheel - there is not enough room to fit the 5.5 inch extension with spark plus socket - you'll need to use a 2 1/2 inch extension with a universal joint to give you enough room to remove the plug. first put in the socket then put in the 2.5 inch extension with the universal joint attached - then push it down to fit on the plug. Maybe if I lifted the engine I wouldn't have to do it this way but it works! Just saved $100 and I know it was done right. I didn't do it last time and found that plug wasn't even hand tight when I removed it! By the way I bought it new and it now has 220,000 miles! I use Mobil1 full synthetic with Mobil 1 filter and change it every 10,000miles
Has the timing belt ever been changed?
Just did mine on my own without raising the engine as well and it wasn't bad at all. It took me about an hour and a half and im sure it'll go much smoother next time.
The universal joint was definitely necessary. I found it easier to work on the passenger side with a long extension and the universal joint so that you're not hitting that hose near the air filter housing. I took the air filter and snorkel out and that gave me way more clearance. Mr Subaru has a video where he chsnges the spark plugs on a Crosstrek which has the same engine as our 5th gen legacy. Thanks to your comment and his video, I got it done! First time ever doing spark plugs and it feels great.
I did my spark plugs also. I would add to his advice when you are undoing the engine mounts leave the nuts threaded on just a little so that the engine does not come off of the bolts. It's really hard to get back on. Other wise it's really easy and lifting the engie did make it easier and only takes a couple extra min.
You're right that's exactly what I'm going to do
Is it absolutely necessary to Jack the engine up?
@@joshuapbrown unless you buy a special ratchet from snap-on that is pricey. It's really easy to do. Just seems scary
I showed my daughter how to change plugs on her 2013 Forester last week. We did NOT do the motor mount/raise engine thing. We did buy a 14mm magnetic spark plug wrench with built-in swivel for $15, that helped. I had never done this on a Subaru before. We removed the airbox on the passenger side, and on the driver side we removed the battery.
Yea I did this a few years ago. It's really not bad at all and also didn't feel like I needed lift the engine at all.
Really nice job on the video. It's nice to see someone stick to the subject. Too many in here go off on silly tangents or think they're late night show hosts. Keep up the good work my friend.
I just did my 2013 Outback today. I didn't end up tilting the engine up with a jack; I wanted to try it without that step first, and I was able to do all 4 plugs. I removed the mostly same parts off the Air intake as you did, and I took the battery out. My 3/8 three inch wobble extension and my 1/4 inch swivel universal extension were the most useful. I wrapped duct tape around the swivel universal to make it like a wobble extension; this was used on the Driver's side rear with a 1/4 ratchet and adapter to 3/8 drive 14mm deep socket. That coil BTW easily came out by gently pulling the head to the front and up. I was able to do the other 3 plugs with the 3inch wobble 3/8 extension adapted to a 1/4 drive ratchet. If my 3/8 ratchet was hinged I would have been able to use it on all but the drivers side rear. I didn't torque the new plugs; I did the 1/4 turn after snug method. The old plugs at 70k were fine. A hinged ratchet would have been nice. Job took me about an hour and a half of actual work time. Thanks for your video; its videos like yours that can inspire the confidence for DIY.
Awesome info!
I just got done doing mine after watching this video. I took me a little less than an hour. And yeah jacking the engine about an inch was deff a huge help. A little scary putting the jack on the oil pan that it might get bent but it all worked out good. Thanks for the video!
is there another place we can jack from?
I'm not sure. I know it sounds crazy to go on the pill plan but that's how everyone with subarus do. There is a special ratchet you can buy but I can't think of the name. Its like a really thin ratchet . A TH-camr mr.subaru has a few past about them.
Good video but heads up. As 1 who worked as a tech for several years, worked at Oreillys and now I manage a shop. You should ALWAYS check the gap on plugs. Yes maybe set at factory but during shipping and such I’ve seen them be as much as 4 thousands out
But the only option would be to return them. You can't adjust the Gap on these plugs . You'll break the iridium square at the top
Good video, thanks man. Just finished install and didn't need to jack up the engine. I'm sure it makes it easier but if you don't have large hands and have the right extensions it can be done.
👌 thank you
Great video. I just got my Subaru, private seller. I would check the gap on plugs. If they are dropped, or banged around, it is possible the gap is off. Mine were probably ok, but I wanted to be sure.
I just replaced the spark plugs on 2015 Subaru Legacy. Tools needed were:
3/8 inch socket ratchet
10MM wrench for battery hold-down bolts
14MM socket with 10 inch extension for battery plate (6 bolts in total, 2 on the inside between engine and wheel well that were the hardest to remove and put back due to lack of clearance). I spent more time removing and putting back these 2 inner bolts than replacing the 4 spark plugs. Why did Subaru put 6 bolts to secure the battery box (steel bracket underneath the plastic battery tray). I used a 1/2 inch drive ratchet (18 inch) and socket as they were torqued to tight.
10MM wrench for spark plug coil bolts
9/16 spark plug socket and 2 inch extension, remove the spark plugs. The driver side back spark plug had a little less clearance so used a 3/8 flex extension to loosen the plug and remove it. Replacement was the reverse. A swivel head extension would work as well.
I won't change it until mpg goes down or any other signs . Iridium is supposed last like 100k in normal daily driving situation. That 60k schedule seems like bonus and attractive money making strategy for subaru dealers giving by Subaru America.
We can obviously see that old sparkplag is pretty much in good shape in this video.
Not saying you need to change them until something indicates it needs changing/checking, but note that original valve cover gasket is defective, so my spark plugs had oil on them at like 60k miles. So that's one reason you might end up needing to change them sooner than 100k ish
Just remove the battery and use an extension with a u joint socket. You don’t need to lift it up.
I just replaced mine yesterday my engine was misfiring cylinders 3&4 i replaced the PCV valve that did not make a big diff but for anyone that is having issues with their Subaru like misfires etc Try replacing the coil pack and the spark plugs if that does not work try PCV valve or you could be getting a bad mixture in the cylinders
Sweet. I didnt raise the engine and managed without. But I could see why you would, the added inch would have made a difference. Less cussing and less time for sure.
I also have a 2013 Legacy .. has only 45,000 miles on it right now, but it IS 7 years old. Recommended change point is 60,000 miles, but I wonder if time has any bearing on changing? They also recommend oil changes for "full synthetic" 0W-20 every 7500 miles. I don't even put on 7500 miles in a year. I've seen YT videos which show that synthetic oil is perfectly fine even after 2 years of use. Watching you change the spark plugs ... seems a bit beyond me and my minimal tools, so when the time comes, I'll probably have the dealer (or some other place) do it. I still have original battery (7 yrs old) and she starts right up every time, but I think I should probably replace it before next Winter. Still have original tires, and front brakes (rear calipers corroded, locked up and burned up the pads/rotors, so I had to have them replaced). Over all, very happy with my Subaru Legacy. I'd owned 3 Saturns prior to buying the Legacy back in April 2013. Nice video .. Cheers!
Thanks for the video. jacking up the motor sure helped a lot.
Very informative and helpful video. Thanks for helping me save $$$ I'd recommend cleaning the throttle body too. I did it today and it drives a lot smoother, accelerates better, and starts easily.
I was thinking the same while I was in there might as well pull the throttle apart and clean it.
Supposedly on the 2014 Legacy 2.5 there is a front motor mount as well.
Who thinks this guy looks like Napoleon Dynamite?
Sounds like him too 😆
The jack seemed to be lifting the car more than the engine mounts. Might have been easier to remove the battery although you do have to make changes with the i-set settings. (mine's a 2020 Subaru Outback) from the factory default settings. Torque wrench settings for the spark plugs is 13.3 ft-lb (or 18 N-m).
What changes do you have to make?
@@DaDaDo661 Such as a halo effect around the speedo and a few other little tweaks covered in the owners manual.
@@swingmanic oh I have the absolute base model so I don't think that applies to me
@@DaDaDo661 Mine is a 2020 Outback 2.5i-X (Aus model)
@@swingmanic yeah I'm in Canada our Trim levels are different
Hi thanks for the video. Am having a hard time finfing the idle air control valve
Not a bad video, thank you. I tried lifting the engine, wasn’t a fan. To get to the plugs on the passenger front I had to take all the air assembly apart. I know the plugs were already gapped, but what should the gap be? I measured .039.
unrelated but at 2:40 there is a HUGE dog in the background
2011 legacy here. The spark plugs do NOT take a 14mm deep-socket, they took a 5/8"/16mm socket (The default spark plug one).
door-opening-device 5/8” = 15mm 🤷🏻♂️🤔
Does the engine have to be lifted? I'd rather not put in the effort if it's not completely necessary
You can definitely try without lifting it but it is crazy tight! The engine is really easy to lift also since the mounts are right in the open and in a pretty rust free zone.
Dude, i tried taking out bolt on driver side without lifting. I was ready to park my car in the middle of the street and abandon it. It was so $%&#ing difficult. Subaru and their boxer engines. Aargh. Moral of the story lift your engine. Lol
The driver's side should be no problem by taking the battery out. I presume it's the passenger side that's a nightmare? Is it THAT bad with a swivel/universal joint?
Also did you take an panels off when you lifted the car (like you need to do when doing an oil change or coolant flush)?
Josh Isralowitz passenger side was easy after the air box is out the driver side is harder because there are some metal cooling lines in the way of my ratchet. Lifting the engine was not bad though made it lot easier
Go to Mr. Subaru channel on TH-cam, he has the best tutorial for working on Subaru’s. Especially Changing spark plugs.
Hey guys awesome video and tips, do guys know how to change the thermostat on the 2011 Subaru Legacy 2.5i I would highly appreciate it???
That was easy! Thanks for the video!
Nicely explained, thanks👌👍
I am troubleshooting my 2010 Legacy 2.5i BM9 (Japanese model) and trying to determine the location of cylinder 4 due to fault P0304. Can you help me out?
So judging by how you can pretty well fit your whole fist in between their frame rail in the block I'm guessing there are no videos out there for my Turbo Legacy 2.5. It is just psychotic how little of room you have between the head and the frame on the Legacy GT. I can't even fit a 3
Three eighth inch ratchet in, I have to use a quarter inch. And then trying to get the damn coil pack back on the plug is literally enough to go insane over.
I see from your comments that the my starts at 2009. i have a 2008, do you know the difference in the procedure. same engine..tnx
Would it be easier to do this from underneath the car since they're down so low?
They are definitely closer to the top then the bottom
Thanks so much!
Where that anti seize at tho
NGK recommends no anti-seize on their plugs. I've done lots of spark plug jobs on my cars and never had a problem.
Why take off engine mount bolts??
Did anybody see that ‘mini horse’ run by at the 2:41 mark?
Yes, lol I noticed that.
haha!
Funny!
Omar Munoz
Ha! I thought u got me😂 saw it the 2nd time
Sweet I have a Forester so I’ll prob be able to reference this
It should be almost exactly the same. You may not need to put the jack under your motor depending on how much clearance you have
saved me $500. thank you
Who is charging 500$ for this job? God damn
People need to calm down with exploiting their fellow human beings
Shawn ¿ local shitty dealers
@@shawn4900 fucken pep boys
Dude,,,,,Anti Seize Compound on plugs,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,And get a new air filter...........Besides that,,,,,,,,,Good Video
Thanks. I did replace the air filter, but was planning on doing a separate video on that. The plugs are NGK which are trivelant plated. It is supposed to act as a release agent when removing later on, so they specifically say not to use anti-seize. I have never really had an issue with spark plugs seizing.
You arent suppose to use anti seize on these plugs. Directly from Ngks directions
Michael I do question NGK's "anti-seize coating". Maybe this is partly why Subaru wants very expensive/high quality spark plugs changed every 60k miles (I had to put in a little elbow grease to get mine out at about 61k, which is kinda scary considering if something breaks you go from a $150 job to god knows how much to get a broke plug out.) Well, that and the crap valve cover gasket that's bound to be defective at 60k :\
Nice video well done. I have my first subaru its a 2014 legacy love the can have never worked on one be for will be back to check out more videos and subscribe. Thanks
nice! Most things on the Subarus are pretty simple and easy to work on.
Cool Stuff Guys Like I'm excited to get into I have always done my own work and one of the reasons I got a subaru was to learn new car stuff. Always have had gm for the most part
Just change the wires heat has destroyed them plugs are good for 90,000 miles
Grat job
After changing plugs on my 2010 legacy 2.5i premium with 2.5l engine my check engine light is on ( not flashing), cruise light and traction light. Any ideas why? Someone suggested I clear memory by disconnecting negative cable, touching positive cable with it then letting it sit for 15 minutes...... I just want any vehicle with a Chevy 350, carburetor and filter on top. I hate these new cars...
It actually worked. I removed negative battery terminal a touched the positive terminal with it then let it sit for 15 minutes. Hooked it back up and started engine. Engine light , cruise and traction light were off. Probably could have avoided it by removing negative terminal before I started.... Lesson learned.
Nice jib
Nice
Haha still have oem plugs done 223k still strong better change them
I won't change it until mpg goes down or any other signs . Iridium is supposed last like 100k in normal daily driving situation. That 60k schedule seems like bonus and attractive money making strategy for subaru dealers giving by Subaru America.
We can obviously see that old sparkplag is pretty much in good shape in this video.
Subaru outback
Subaru's spark plug location is utter trash!
That's what you get when you put an airplane engine into a car! These are great little cars until the catalytic converters clog- $1200 x 3 plus labor! I'm on my 7th Subaru, and never made it past 160,000 without cat problems.
can't do anything about it. the spark plugs are located where the cylinders are. The cylinders in a boxer are down low and on the sides. you get a nice benefit by having this engine but have to put up with a bit of difficulty. can't have it all.
Changing plugs is Bull Shit. 💩 Actually cheaper to pay a mechanic
Buy yourself a Toyota or Honda fuck that for a joke.
Nawwwwww ☹️
Ngk is junk..... use autolites
Terrible footage