FINALLY a video not requiring a machine to cut the stencil! I really must THANK YOU for this video. Although I don't use etching cream to etch, your technique of tracing the image onto the film worked perfectly! Now I can hand etch a decanter! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I have a silhoette cutting machine but sometimes that adds more complication than needed! Just makr sure to work your mask over the surface so there's no gaps if you intend to sand blast
I love this video! And I love your quirky sense of humor! I don't think be ever searched for a tutorial video and have the first one be so perfect! THANK YOU! 😁
I really appreciate you making this video. I am new to glass etching, but I am really enjoying it. However I needed to know how to make my own stencil, and you answered my questions and helped me out greatly. So thank you very much for making this video. By the way, I used to play with a red/black 4th edition deck. Those were the days! Thanks again!
A tip I learned when working with RC car decals: if you take a hair dryer and heat up the stencil so it's soft and pliable, then stick it on the glass, smooth it out, then heat it up a little again, and smooth it out some more. While it's still warm and soft, dunk it in ice water or rub an ice cube over it. The trick is you dont want the glass so hot that it shatters when you put it in the ice bath. The cold shock from the ice seems to "lock" the shape into the plastic and it takes and holds the shape of rounded object perfectly. Hope it helps.
A good point -- be careful with glass as it tends to snap under fast, uneven heating and cooling. Unless it's Corning boro-glass, then heat it til it glows and it's fine.
I use a slightly different technique (i.e. I wash off the etching solution before I remove my stencil) but I like the reason you gave for doing it the way you do. I'll try it sometime. Great job and great video! I had some small wine glasses that I had to put derby names on and you're right about the distortion of the glass and having a stencil too big. I cut the stencil material (I used contact paper) to make the stencil form around the glass. Even though technically the stencil is distorted, it works because the glass is round and visually you do not see the distortion. BTW, EXCELLENT idea for having a small design etched on the base of the glass as a "wine charm."
i wash off the cream before removing the stencil, too. we use pretty adhesive vinyl, though (the stuff that goes on car windows), so there's not as much of a reason to peel stencil off first then rinse. and even then there are the rare 'blow-outs' where some cream gets under the stencil (i don't seem to have this problem, but the guy that helps us in our store seems to have this issue sometimes, lol). i'm not clear as to the benefit of removing the outside of the stencil ~ by that point, the damage has already been done, eh? for me, the biggest reason for leaving the stencil on until you've done washed the cream off is purely for safety. you don't want this stuff on your skin for very long (i wear gloves and safety glasses), and at some point you'll be peeling a stencil and a piece will break or just might come off quickly, sending cream flying. i, also, used to use contact paper. worked great, was cheap, plentiful and easy to get, not to mention you can cut through it without much problem. when i used to do this by hand, i could get some very fine details.
Where have you been? We miss you! Oh well... Hope your holidays are fun and safe. We'd love a update maybe a musical picture montage of projects and the year adventures. Anyways. Hope to see you soon!
Hey great video. I use a similar product for wood carving, a way around the ink jet smear is to use a laser printer. But if you don't have one you can still use the ink jet by adding one simple step. See the difference between the laser and the ink jet is heat. So carefully remove the film from the ink jet printer and dry the film with a hair dryer. It works great on the film i use
+Jason Becker Try painting the back of the tokens with oven bake glass paint (ask at craft store, one brand is Plaid glass paint, it'll have baking instructions on the bottle) then etching the top of the token with a stencil, the effect is gorgeous, think fairy token with etched fairy floating above a painted background of vines made with a stamp. My tokens have lasted years of use.
First let me say this video IS HIGHLY helpful to what I am trying to do right now! When I am painting my design, do I paint first and then apply the Armor Etch? That's the only part that I am slightly confused on.
Hey! I have a logo I want to etch to a cake dome. (so larger, more gentler curved surface than a wine glass). I'm debating weather to trace it (harder to make the font precise) or weather to have it cut by a vinyl cutter (like from a sign store, if affordable). Do you think cut vinyl letters will be better masked by frisket or by vinyl (slightly thicker, with adhesive on the back).
Thanks for the thorough explanation - it told me more than I was expecting! I do have a question, though, regarding the stencils: These stencils don't seem to be reusable; are there other options for making reusable stencils?
What about using spray adhesive? Have you tried this? Would the acid eat it and lift the stencil? I am looking into a laser cutter and I would make tons of stencils but would have to attach them some how without using sticky film. Comments appreciated.
As I mentioned before. It is not good for you to recommend washing brushes in the way that you do. All the notes I can find on this etchant don't recommend disposing of it via the drain. Armour Etch may be a dilute version but it is still highly acidic and it's still toxic. It cuts through glass. It will remove the enamelling on your sink. It is not a chemical that should be washed down the sink. The same, if not more, care that would be taken with traditional photographic chemicals (for 'film' photography) should be taken with these. Brushes should be washed in a mixture of water and bicarbonate of soda first to neutralise the acid, the solution that is left is still toxic and should not be tipped down the drain but should be kept in a sealed container and should be sent to, or collected by whatever hazardous waste collection facility you have in your local area. Probably best to ask your local council. If your container is large and clearly labelled and you wash your brushes sparingly then you shouldn't have to arrange for collection too often. I am concerned that you took my original comment on this down (at least I assume this is what has happened becuase I can't find it on here). I would get in touch with you personally but I can't find a way to on TH-cam these days. I am not trying to disrupt your channel but just to make sure that people using etchants are being environmentally responsible and aware. You are working with a hazardous chemical and it should be treated with respect.
I have learn to do this and people have ask me what is the price am selling it for so can anybody please tell me what are they going for or how much should I sell for
i mentioned in my reply what i would charge (which the customer would have to supply the glass, else i would add that to the bill). for just the first image i would have to get about $15, and i think that's reasonable considering the time it takes to do these, not to mention the cream is expensive. granted, this isn't a complicated process requiring specialized equipment, you're paying more for the time it takes. if you try to do a glass yourself you'd see that $15 is a pretty fair price. :)
not sure what you mean. glass etching cream is permanent and leaves a light frosted look on the glass. if you wanted some custom vinyl graphics for any kind of glass, but didn't want to do it yourself, most screenprinting shops should have a vinyl cutter that can make whatever you want, and some even have printing capability to put colour on the vinyl. these 'stickers' are durable and you can take them off (not necessarily easily as they're made for outdoor use, but not difficult by any means), but once you remove them they're trash.
hì,, i used it in the living room and after that my both eyes are burning.. is it normal? i didn't use something to care my eyes.. now im frightened... both eyes are red and burns.. my living room is a small room i only oppened the window while etch with armour etch cream.. my child and husband were sitting in the same room while i do this... should i go to the doctor?? pls answer me :'(
Not done any etching myself but, having done old-school photography I know of the risks of just washing chemicals down the sink. So I did a quick Google. YOU SHOULD NOT BE WASHING YOUR BRUSHES THIS WAY: "Hydrofluoric acid should never be disposed of by drain. Elementary neutralization of HF does not permit drain disposal, even if the res"ulting solution pH is 7. Neutralization of hydrofluoric acid with a basic material produces metal fluoride salts, which are toxic." This is from Office of Environmental Health and Safety in the USA. Although I suspect if I looked this up for elsewhere (Such as my native UK) there would be similar restrictions placed by their Governmental Environmental body (and if there weren't all it would prove is how irresponsible the country is). When you etch you are working with DANGEROUS CHEMICALS. You need to be careful about yourself and the materials you work with. Failure to do so could cause lung problems, blindness and chemical burns to the skin. Also will take the glaze off your sink if it's ceramic. According to Armor Etch's site you can neutralise its acidity with bicarbonate of soda, then you still have the problem of safe disposal which I am yet to work out. Presumably a lot of people are just washing this dangerous chemical down the sink as you did on this video.
4:47 Worth noting that this etchant, fluosilicic (hexafluorosilicic) acid, is the same chemical predominantly used to fluoridate drinking water. fluoridealert.org/issues/water/fluoridation-chemicals/ Perhaps it would strike many as an unappealing topic, but there is a problematic situation affecting us and the first step in solving a problem is to give it your attention and recognize its significance. For those willing to consider it, here are some very important reasons to oppose public water fluoridation. That is, the introduction of chemical additives to community drinking water using fluosilicic acid (or sometimes sodium fluoride) as medication for tooth decay in children, indiscriminately applied to the entire population. Fluoridation is unsafe, unethical, and unnecessary because: ■ Fluosilicic acid is not an approved drug by the FDA and has no actual safety data, constituting unlawful medical research, violating both the Nuremberg Code and the Council of Europe's Biomedical Convention of 1999. This is not calcium fluoride found in nature. It is an industrial toxic waste chemical scrubbed from smokestack emissions in aluminum production and phosphate fertilizer manufacturing, contaminated with lead, arsenic, cadmium, mercury, and other metals known to adversely affect human health. ■ Dosage is not insignificantly small and people are overexposed. Dosage cannot be reliably controlled, as the margin of safety is either very low or non-existent, and each person ends up with highly variable exposure, through personal level of water intake, fluoride-containing foods, medications, oral care products, and other sources of fluoride, as well as having very different individual biochemistry and susceptibility. Many people have levels of exposure well beyond what pro-fluoridationists argue to be beneficial. For others, many studies have found adverse effects linked to fluoridation at low levels, even with cases many times lower than standard fluoridation amounts. ■ It is now known to cause harm to vulnerable groups of people who are more at risk of fluoride's toxic effects. This includes infants, the elderly, minority communities, and people with kidney disease, thyroid conditions, or fluoride allergies. For those who morally wish to protect the innocent from unnecessary harm, this is a point that should stand on its own to end the debate. ■ It is now thought to accumulate chronic harm done to the general population over years of exposure. There is surely enough scientific data to treat this concern with respect. For instance, the National Academy of Sciences has published a 500 page report highlighting numerous studies linking fluoride in drinking water, even at very low levels, to a range of human health risks from decreased IQ and thyroid disorders to potential bone cancer risks. ■ It is a forced mass medication, violating an individual's right to consent, and disregarding individual-appropriate dosage. It should not be the role of government to override an individual's freedom of choice, or to decide how they are medicated. Fluoride is not a benign substance, it is not a nutrient, and it is not used to treat water quality. It is a chemical medication. For those who morally respect individual sovereignty, this point alone is enough reason to oppose mandatory fluoridation. ■ A significant number of people and prominent authorities oppose fluoridation. It is banned in most of Europe, and hundreds of U.S. communities have rejected fluoridation. The heads of 11 EPA unions, including those representing the agency’s scientists, have pleaded with the government to reduce the permissible level of fluoride in water to zero. Many thousands of medical, scientific, and environmental health professionals have signed a national petition with the Fluoride Action Network. Thousands of members of the Canadian Association of Physicians for the Environment have collectively stated their opposition to fluoridation. Over a dozen Nobel Prize winners in Chemistry and Medicine oppose fluoridation. A prestigious panel of highly qualified experts at the National Research Council completed one of the most thorough and objective reviews of the scientific literature in 60 years, and they unanimously found that the allowable level of fluoride is too high, exposing children to risk of severe dental fluorosis and all groups to risk of bone fracture. ■ There are reasonable alternatives. If there is a desire to treat people's teeth with fluoride, then offer them toothpaste with topically-applied pharmaceutical-grade sodium fluoride, as a voluntary medication with individualized dosage using an FDA approved drug. ■ Water is a vital necessity of life and should be maintained free of any chemical additives, except those necessary to make it safe and potable for human consumption. In a natural world, we would have access to unadulterated water, but modern society has polluted the environment and the government provides only artificially medicated water in its place. This compels individuals to purchase purified water, but it is not feasible for anyone to truly avoid exposure to fluoridated water, as it cannot be entirely filtered out, it is absorbed when showering, saturated into food and beverage products, and is spread everywhere water goes into the environment. To use this basic, essential form of sustenance as a pervasive, unavoidable vehicle for drugs is wrong. More information and scientific data available from the Fluoride Action Network at www.fluoridealert.org
fluoride compounds in excess are indeed dnagerous. however, without light fluoridation in water, teeth rot. many more people are affected by septic abscesses, jaw infections, and chronic pain and disfigurement caused by rotten teeth than are affected by accidental over fluoridation. pure, un-mineralized water is not natural for human teeth, so adding minerals like fluoride can and do save lives and quality of life.
you make a good point, sir. The glaze on the sink is made of glass, so it will lose its shine if the armor etch contacts it for a while. If heavily diluted and with cold water one time, probably no issue. but do it a few times... and suddenly mr. sink is aged 20 years.
just get a bucket of water if the quality of your sink matters that much right? once its diluted pouring it in the sink wont hurt it cheap - plastic is not dissoved in in straight hydrofluoric acid (cheaper, faster), makeing shrink wrap and dip techniques the best way to go for mass production lol take your hair dryer to those stencils as you rub them on even the crappy store bought ones
You are a genius! I’m so glad I found your channel! You have inspired me to breath life back into an old mirror. Can’t wait to try this!
FINALLY a video not requiring a machine to cut the stencil! I really must THANK YOU for this video. Although I don't use etching cream to etch, your technique of tracing the image onto the film worked perfectly! Now I can hand etch a decanter! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I have a silhoette cutting machine but sometimes that adds more complication than needed! Just makr sure to work your mask over the surface so there's no gaps if you intend to sand blast
I love this video! And I love your quirky sense of humor! I don't think be ever searched for a tutorial video and have the first one be so perfect! THANK YOU! 😁
Have you seen such work? th-cam.com/video/hKYzTNGceAU/w-d-xo.html
I really appreciate you making this video. I am new to glass etching, but I am really enjoying it. However I needed to know how to make my own stencil, and you answered my questions and helped me out greatly. So thank you very much for making this video. By the way, I used to play with a red/black 4th edition deck. Those were the days! Thanks again!
A tip I learned when working with RC car decals: if you take a hair dryer and heat up the stencil so it's soft and pliable, then stick it on the glass, smooth it out, then heat it up a little again, and smooth it out some more. While it's still warm and soft, dunk it in ice water or rub an ice cube over it. The trick is you dont want the glass so hot that it shatters when you put it in the ice bath. The cold shock from the ice seems to "lock" the shape into the plastic and it takes and holds the shape of rounded object perfectly. Hope it helps.
A good point -- be careful with glass as it tends to snap under fast, uneven heating and cooling. Unless it's Corning boro-glass, then heat it til it glows and it's fine.
I use a slightly different technique (i.e. I wash off the etching solution before I remove my stencil) but I like the reason you gave for doing it the way you do. I'll try it sometime. Great job and great video! I had some small wine glasses that I had to put derby names on and you're right about the distortion of the glass and having a stencil too big. I cut the stencil material (I used contact paper) to make the stencil form around the glass. Even though technically the stencil is distorted, it works because the glass is round and visually you do not see the distortion. BTW, EXCELLENT idea for having a small design etched on the base of the glass as a "wine charm."
i wash off the cream before removing the stencil, too. we use pretty adhesive vinyl, though (the stuff that goes on car windows), so there's not as much of a reason to peel stencil off first then rinse. and even then there are the rare 'blow-outs' where some cream gets under the stencil (i don't seem to have this problem, but the guy that helps us in our store seems to have this issue sometimes, lol). i'm not clear as to the benefit of removing the outside of the stencil ~ by that point, the damage has already been done, eh?
for me, the biggest reason for leaving the stencil on until you've done washed the cream off is purely for safety. you don't want this stuff on your skin for very long (i wear gloves and safety glasses), and at some point you'll be peeling a stencil and a piece will break or just might come off quickly, sending cream flying.
i, also, used to use contact paper. worked great, was cheap, plentiful and easy to get, not to mention you can cut through it without much problem. when i used to do this by hand, i could get some very fine details.
Love your personality, energy, and humor! Nice video! Thank you! ;-)
"Not the kind you use in acid attacks..." LLLLLMMMMBBBBOOOO!
GREAT video. You have a TALENT for instruction! 👏🏾
very good video! Well spoken! Great you mention the chemicals and the reaction!
This was a really well done video. Great job and thanks!
You can use a hair dryer on a low heat setting to wrap plastic stencils around tapered surfaces.
Where have you been? We miss you! Oh well... Hope your holidays are fun and safe. We'd love a update maybe a musical picture montage of projects and the year adventures. Anyways. Hope to see you soon!
Ok, I feel like you are my Craft Spirit Animal... Crafts + GAMING + Science?! Say what?! Keep up the thorough, informative, hilarious work!
Thank you! Very helpful video to make my bridesmaid a personalized wine glass w/o spending a fortune!!
You're quite energetic, it was fun. Thank you very much for tutorial, it helped a lot. I want to etch but I didnt know how.
Best video How-To EVER! Love how you don't yammer on and on and on, show it, got it, on to the next, got it, thanks!
Hey great video. I use a similar product for wood carving, a way around the ink jet smear is to use a laser printer. But if you don't have one you can still use the ink jet by adding one simple step. See the difference between the laser and the ink jet is heat. So carefully remove the film from the ink jet printer and dry the film with a hair dryer. It works great on the film i use
Very interesting. Thanks for this tutorial.
love your energy and lack of attention span. thanks for this!
I wonder if you could just use Frisket with your cricket!
Love, love, love the technique...great instruction! Thanks so much for sharing :-)
This is very awesome! I'm definitely going to try this!! You superstar you
forget everything else i have been trying to think of a good idea for MTG tokens and you just gave it to me. thank you.
+Jason Becker Try painting the back of the tokens with oven bake glass paint (ask at craft store, one brand is Plaid glass paint, it'll have baking instructions on the bottle) then etching the top of the token with a stencil, the effect is gorgeous, think fairy token with etched fairy floating above a painted background of vines made with a stamp. My tokens have lasted years of use.
That seems really cool I will totally try that thanks
First let me say this video IS HIGHLY helpful to what I am trying to do right now! When I am painting my design, do I paint first and then apply the Armor Etch? That's the only part that I am slightly confused on.
i love how animated your commentary is.
Excellent video! Great explanations.
This was a super helpful video, thank you.
informative and well presented with good attitude
etch cream we should use on acrylic or plexiglass
Wow very informative now i have a question, will this come off?
I was told to only leave it only I for one min. Does that depend on the type of glass you are using I learned at the library workshop. Great video
Hey! I have a logo I want to etch to a cake dome. (so larger, more gentler curved surface than a wine glass). I'm debating weather to trace it (harder to make the font precise) or weather to have it cut by a vinyl cutter (like from a sign store, if affordable). Do you think cut vinyl letters will be better masked by frisket or by vinyl (slightly thicker, with adhesive on the back).
Would using a small amount of heat help when applying a stencil to a curved surface?
try using vinyl, buy a cricut and cut it. waaaaaaaay easier and you get a much better result. Clean edges and sharper result.
Thanks for the thorough explanation - it told me more than I was expecting!
I do have a question, though, regarding the stencils: These stencils don't seem to be reusable; are there other options for making reusable stencils?
Have you seen such work? th-cam.com/video/hKYzTNGceAU/w-d-xo.html
Can you use a picture as well for etching?
Gorgeous
Your Back!!!!! :D
What about using spray adhesive? Have you tried this? Would the acid eat it and lift the stencil? I am looking into a laser cutter and I would make tons of stencils but would have to attach them some how without using sticky film. Comments appreciated.
hi what version of coral draw are you using can i use photoshop 2016 just aswell
As I mentioned before. It is not good for you to recommend washing brushes in the way that you do. All the notes I can find on this etchant don't recommend disposing of it via the drain. Armour Etch may be a dilute version but it is still highly acidic and it's still toxic. It cuts through glass. It will remove the enamelling on your sink. It is not a chemical that should be washed down the sink. The same, if not more, care that would be taken with traditional photographic chemicals (for 'film' photography) should be taken with these. Brushes should be washed in a mixture of water and bicarbonate of soda first to neutralise the acid, the solution that is left is still toxic and should not be tipped down the drain but should be kept in a sealed container and should be sent to, or collected by whatever hazardous waste collection facility you have in your local area. Probably best to ask your local council. If your container is large and clearly labelled and you wash your brushes sparingly then you shouldn't have to arrange for collection too often.
I am concerned that you took my original comment on this down (at least I assume this is what has happened becuase I can't find it on here). I would get in touch with you personally but I can't find a way to on TH-cam these days. I am not trying to disrupt your channel but just to make sure that people using etchants are being environmentally responsible and aware. You are working with a hazardous chemical and it should be treated with respect.
Can you put in dishwasher after painting it..
yes, you can dishwash away! it won't hurt anything.
I have learn to do this and people have ask me what is the price am selling it for so can anybody please tell me what are they going for or how much should I sell for
I would love for you to make sure for this event I am having on August 16th. Would you be interested?
i mentioned in my reply what i would charge (which the customer would have to supply the glass, else i would add that to the bill). for just the first image i would have to get about $15, and i think that's reasonable considering the time it takes to do these, not to mention the cream is expensive. granted, this isn't a complicated process requiring specialized equipment, you're paying more for the time it takes. if you try to do a glass yourself you'd see that $15 is a pretty fair price. :)
in order for me to put names on my glass is it a machine i suupose to buy
.Those water adhesives for frosted glass, for privacy...are they easily removable; say if you need to move or something???
not sure what you mean. glass etching cream is permanent and leaves a light frosted look on the glass. if you wanted some custom vinyl graphics for any kind of glass, but didn't want to do it yourself, most screenprinting shops should have a vinyl cutter that can make whatever you want, and some even have printing capability to put colour on the vinyl. these 'stickers' are durable and you can take them off (not necessarily easily as they're made for outdoor use, but not difficult by any means), but once you remove them they're trash.
how do you use paint? that would be nice too.
Wow I love the tutorial but besides that I am totally gonna make tokens for mtg that's a great idea!
Great job, thanks so much!!!
hì,,
i used it in the living room and after that my both eyes are burning.. is it normal? i didn't use something to care my eyes.. now im frightened... both eyes are red and burns.. my living room is a small room i only oppened the window while etch with armour etch cream.. my child and husband were sitting in the same room while i do this... should i go to the doctor?? pls answer me :'(
I tried this but with paint and when I went to peel off the adhesive all the paint came off! :( any idea on where I went wrong?
Peel before the paint dries!
do you play dominion?
Magic The Gathering! Theros! I see wild Nykthos lol :P
My question....Can you use a "PAPER" stencil?? I see you used a plastic stencil...it won't melt the stencil...IT is acid????
Cream kaha milegi pl
aap ise shilp bhandaar ya onalain khareed sakate hain. "Etchall" ko bhaarat mein beche jaane vaale ek braand ke roop mein dekhen.
Thanks alot mai glass me ab twist la sakta hu aapko jarur dikhaunga
Thanks again
I came for etching but stayed for the Nykthos
"Nyx may belong to the gods, but the skies of Theros are ours."
hexafluoracylic acid similar to fluoride then....
Not done any etching myself but, having done old-school photography I know of the risks of just washing chemicals down the sink. So I did a quick Google. YOU SHOULD NOT BE WASHING YOUR BRUSHES THIS WAY:
"Hydrofluoric acid should never be disposed of by drain. Elementary neutralization of HF does not permit drain disposal, even if the res"ulting solution pH is 7. Neutralization of hydrofluoric acid with a basic material produces metal fluoride salts, which are toxic."
This is from Office of Environmental Health and Safety in the USA. Although I suspect if I looked this up for elsewhere (Such as my native UK) there would be similar restrictions placed by their Governmental Environmental body (and if there weren't all it would prove is how irresponsible the country is).
When you etch you are working with DANGEROUS CHEMICALS. You need to be careful about yourself and the materials you work with. Failure to do so could cause lung problems, blindness and chemical burns to the skin. Also will take the glaze off your sink if it's ceramic.
According to Armor Etch's site you can neutralise its acidity with bicarbonate of soda, then you still have the problem of safe disposal which I am yet to work out. Presumably a lot of people are just washing this dangerous chemical down the sink as you did on this video.
8:45 she has three arms! O.o
x
x
x
x
x t
4:47 Worth noting that this etchant, fluosilicic (hexafluorosilicic) acid, is the same chemical predominantly used to fluoridate drinking water. fluoridealert.org/issues/water/fluoridation-chemicals/
Perhaps it would strike many as an unappealing topic, but there is a problematic situation affecting us and the first step in solving a problem is to give it your attention and recognize its significance. For those willing to consider it, here are some very important reasons to oppose public water fluoridation. That is, the introduction of chemical additives to community drinking water using fluosilicic acid (or sometimes sodium fluoride) as medication for tooth decay in children, indiscriminately applied to the entire population.
Fluoridation is unsafe, unethical, and unnecessary because:
■ Fluosilicic acid is not an approved drug by the FDA and has no actual safety data, constituting unlawful medical research, violating both the Nuremberg Code and the Council of Europe's Biomedical Convention of 1999. This is not calcium fluoride found in nature. It is an industrial toxic waste chemical scrubbed from smokestack emissions in aluminum production and phosphate fertilizer manufacturing, contaminated with lead, arsenic, cadmium, mercury, and other metals known to adversely affect human health.
■ Dosage is not insignificantly small and people are overexposed. Dosage cannot be reliably controlled, as the margin of safety is either very low or non-existent, and each person ends up with highly variable exposure, through personal level of water intake, fluoride-containing foods, medications, oral care products, and other sources of fluoride, as well as having very different individual biochemistry and susceptibility. Many people have levels of exposure well beyond what pro-fluoridationists argue to be beneficial. For others, many studies have found adverse effects linked to fluoridation at low levels, even with cases many times lower than standard fluoridation amounts.
■ It is now known to cause harm to vulnerable groups of people who are more at risk of fluoride's toxic effects. This includes infants, the elderly, minority communities, and people with kidney disease, thyroid conditions, or fluoride allergies. For those who morally wish to protect the innocent from unnecessary harm, this is a point that should stand on its own to end the debate.
■ It is now thought to accumulate chronic harm done to the general population over years of exposure. There is surely enough scientific data to treat this concern with respect. For instance, the National Academy of Sciences has published a 500 page report highlighting numerous studies linking fluoride in drinking water, even at very low levels, to a range of human health risks from decreased IQ and thyroid disorders to potential bone cancer risks.
■ It is a forced mass medication, violating an individual's right to consent, and disregarding individual-appropriate dosage. It should not be the role of government to override an individual's freedom of choice, or to decide how they are medicated. Fluoride is not a benign substance, it is not a nutrient, and it is not used to treat water quality. It is a chemical medication. For those who morally respect individual sovereignty, this point alone is enough reason to oppose mandatory fluoridation.
■ A significant number of people and prominent authorities oppose fluoridation. It is banned in most of Europe, and hundreds of U.S. communities have rejected fluoridation. The heads of 11 EPA unions, including those representing the agency’s scientists, have pleaded with the government to reduce the permissible level of fluoride in water to zero. Many thousands of medical, scientific, and environmental health professionals have signed a national petition with the Fluoride Action Network. Thousands of members of the Canadian Association of Physicians for the Environment have collectively stated their opposition to fluoridation. Over a dozen Nobel Prize winners in Chemistry and Medicine oppose fluoridation. A prestigious panel of highly qualified experts at the National Research Council completed one of the most thorough and objective reviews of the scientific literature in 60 years, and they unanimously found that the allowable level of fluoride is too high, exposing children to risk of severe dental fluorosis and all groups to risk of bone fracture.
■ There are reasonable alternatives. If there is a desire to treat people's teeth with fluoride, then offer them toothpaste with topically-applied pharmaceutical-grade sodium fluoride, as a voluntary medication with individualized dosage using an FDA approved drug.
■ Water is a vital necessity of life and should be maintained free of any chemical additives, except those necessary to make it safe and potable for human consumption. In a natural world, we would have access to unadulterated water, but modern society has polluted the environment and the government provides only artificially medicated water in its place. This compels individuals to purchase purified water, but it is not feasible for anyone to truly avoid exposure to fluoridated water, as it cannot be entirely filtered out, it is absorbed when showering, saturated into food and beverage products, and is spread everywhere water goes into the environment. To use this basic, essential form of sustenance as a pervasive, unavoidable vehicle for drugs is wrong.
More information and scientific data available from the Fluoride Action Network at www.fluoridealert.org
fluoride compounds in excess are indeed dnagerous. however, without light fluoridation in water, teeth rot. many more people are affected by septic abscesses, jaw infections, and chronic pain and disfigurement caused by rotten teeth than are affected by accidental over fluoridation. pure, un-mineralized water is not natural for human teeth, so adding minerals like fluoride can and do save lives and quality of life.
You sound just like the girl on "After the Thrones" the talk show about Game of Thrones, Am I right??
Bellaluna1105 sounds like PushingUpRoses to me
haha came here to etch the five mana symbols into a cup
Need a Cricut. Took much work!
Need $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ for Cricut. : )
boleh di pelajariiiii
Ur funny, great video.
Woot! MTG! haha :P
hey DON'T wash the armour etch off of your brushes and glass in a ceramic sink, as it can eat away the surface! Wash it off in a stainless steel sink!
you make a good point, sir. The glaze on the sink is made of glass, so it will lose its shine if the armor etch contacts it for a while. If heavily diluted and with cold water one time, probably no issue. but do it a few times... and suddenly mr. sink is aged 20 years.
just get a bucket of water if the quality of your sink matters that much right? once its diluted pouring it in the sink wont hurt it cheap - plastic is not dissoved in in straight hydrofluoric acid (cheaper, faster), makeing shrink wrap and dip techniques the best way to go for mass production lol take your hair dryer to those stencils as you rub them on even the crappy store bought ones
Quint Clobo Thanks. Was wondering about that.
MtG!!!
To Hard
what's too hard?
Spelling is also too hard for you, apparently.
oh gosh is that all you can say.. who doesn't make a mistake once in awhile.. I guess you're perfect now you pretty little thing.. are you gay??
this is too much work! like the idea, but not 4 me