==== I can't get over how smart people are who invented this. You cut it one way. And then another way with a different orientation of the board. Genius. So many geniuses among us. It is like a multi purpose Rubik's cube ====
I don't know about lucky, I think 99.999% of your success can be attributed to your patience and diligently following the instructions. Overall great video! Thanks for sharing❗❗❗ 🙂🙂🙂 👍👍👍
I used similar bits to make long box beams back in the mid 80's in my cabinet shop. I used a shaper with a roller feeder to make sure I had pressure against the fence and table. Yes you should use a 'follow' block to reduce end blow outs, especially with hardwoods. They're really cool to work with, have fun.
Hit a void, lose your fingers. So yeah, featherboard is a good idea, as well as push block(s). Mark Eaton from Freud always recommended a dowel in a block to push; it becomes the sacrificial piece at the same time, and so easy to make there's no excuse for not using it. Enjoyed the video!
I've had one of these bits for almost a year now unfortunately I haven't had time to try it. I also bought a setup block which cost almost as much as the bit. After watching your video, I find it's a lot easier to set up then I thought. I'm currently working on another project, but as soon as I'm can, I'm going to make several boxes for all the fasteners I've collected over the years. Thanks again for the set up tips!
Back in the 80's I worked in a cabinet shop building shallow oak display cases with lock-mitered corners made this way. Never tried a lock-miter with plywood the way you have. Though the lock-miter prevents joint movement during glue-up, the "tongues" on the cross-grain side of the lock-miter are extremely fragile, and routinely break as they did on your piece, often while milling or during glue up. Even a slight tweak of the two boards after assembly will snap off the tongues on the fragile side of the joint. I spent a lot of time reinserting broken tongue pieces during glue-up to fill the joint where they had snapped off. I think a biscuit-joint miter is actually stronger.
Hello, Congrats on Getting it dialed in so quickly... I used to install false Post and Beams in Houses back in 2006-2008 and we used material that was milled using the “Lock Miter Bit. The material shipped out to us was Knoty Alder Glu-ups and we’re up to 16’ Long so the Mill we got it from must have had a Shaper with a Power Feeder. After Installation the product went under a “Distress mode” before it was Finished. The end result was Both Beautiful and Meticulous... Good Video Indeed... Greg
Love the content. I started out building speaker boxes, now I'm looking at general woodworking and building shit. I think this bit will be a game changer.
1:52 Setup height 2:12 Setup depth fence There also are jig from infinity and an other name that I forgot. It would be great to make same jig as them ourself, because they are a bit expensive. I found this one that you made 4 years ago after the one that you made 2 years ago ! ! ! 😁
yup mine def didn't go that smoothly i didn't use the ruler trick though. might have to try that. def a good joint once fiddled with. good job! for the blowout i try to make pieces longer so i can just trim off for perfect ends but sometimes that doesn't pan out and block is needed.
damn, that setup looked way easier than what I was watching. The top of the bit aligned with top of board seems way easier than finding center and lining up. The ruler against the fence was the other way i saw for setup, that seemed pretty straight forward.
Nicely done Wes! I have used that type of bit in the past & found that it's not that difficult to set up. Once you get it dialed in, as you did, just keep the off cuts for easy set up next time around. The great thing about that joint is that once you glue it up, it's not coming apart very easily! BTW, you have a new subscriber! :)
Hey Wes, I don't wanna rain on your parade, but the joint should close as well inside as it does outside. You got it much closer than I did, I actually made so many test cuts that I dulled the bit and it's a bitch to sharpen. The thickness of your material is also very important. I don't know about baltic birch, but most plywood isn't actually 3/4 thick so those samples wouldn't work for setup blocks unless the material is exactly the same thickness. I watched a video where the fella set his up by marking half the thickness of his material and lining that up to middle point on the bit. I'm gonna try that.
I keeping seeing this bit in ads online, wasn't sure how good it really was. We'll now I am convinced they do work, however can you do a glue up? The joint is so good not sure where all the access glue would go. Thanks for sharing I needed to see it from a trusted source.
I have the same bit and I've rigged up my trim router to be a table router. I was wondering if I was routing to fast because it wouldnt cut straight. Atleast now I see how slow I should do it
Darien Charlton yeah. You need to slow down the rpm on your router and go slow but not to slow that you burn your wood. It’s a big bit. I recommend only using it in a variable speed router.
I’m one of those fellas that fought setting this router bit, can’t wait to try your idea. Great information, thanks for the suggestions. Nice vid. Jack/Missouri
First of your videos im seeing and let me tell you. Im definitly checking the rest out after watching this one. I recently had all my tools stolen, Garage BnE, anyway I just purshased the bosch 2 1/4 hp fixed and plunge kit. I have a freud router mounted in a table they didnt take (thank god) most of my shop time is going into the router now adays so ill love to see any other router videos you have! thanks for the quality content!!!!!
Chad Olmstead no problem, having your stuff stolen sucks. Have not had that happen to me yet. Do you now have a security system on your shop? I have been thinking about getting one
@@WesHamstra I just moved into a new part of town that isnt great. I've been looking at professional security companies as well as the more diy versions. I was making called and getting quotes from the locals when this all happened. Regardless. My insurance is saying unless I have receipts for my tools then I will not get retail value. the best i can claim for is "at cost" apparently meaning you go buy the same tool used for 100 bucks when i claimed a 800 bosch miter. I lost my house in a fire... two years ago so my paperwork for everything was lost. insurance is being less than understanding. im actually having tp use my IG and other random photos of my tools to prove I had them. Long story short. record every tool purchase you want covered with receipt and item picture with receipt represent. They tell me recording helps identify thieves more than insurance, BUT it can help your claim if you have footage of the theives as well as if there was any signes of forces entry.
Chad Olmstead wow, you lost your house in a fire. Thats horrible. I feel like i need an alarm system and maybe some cameras. after all i am showing the would to be theives all the tools I have in my videos.
@@WesHamstra haha in your shop tour video i saw your wide open big windows and i had a little heart attack! this guys gunna get got! but honetly though the part of city i am in is like shit. almost the worst in calgary. Im not surpirsed it happend just how fast it was is the shity part right before i got alarms lol
@@WesHamstra I have a joke about why old buildings burn down.... because they need too. Not saying your fire is a joking matter or your building should have burned, just made me think of my joke. I am a general contractor... and old buildings are sometimes a huge waste of time to remodel or fix.
I notice all the videos on lock miter bits are shown cutting the long side with the grain. It seems to me that for most applications, building drawers and boxes, you would be crosscutting the end grain. Thoughts? Maybe another video showing how that cut works out?
Seems like it would be a lot faster to cut the bulk of the mitre at the table saw them use the router bit to cut the fine detail. That way you might get less blow out since it's putting way less stress on the bit
Thanks for the video. I have a lock miter bit haven't used it yet thought the set up would take forever. Also didi know about standing one cut on edge.thank you.
Thank you for this video! And great job doing it at the first shot :) I was wondering if I can use this with my fixed base router since I don’t have a router table. Thank you in advance
While I applaud you nailing this on the first time, it doesn't really help anyone struggling to set this bit up to learn how to make adjustments when they (most likely) won't nail it on the first attempt.
Sorry to oppose what you have said, but that lock mitre bit will do a range of stock sizes and is not limited to 3/4". It depends very much on bit height and fence placement during setup, but your bit, at a guess, since it's a similar size to mine, should be OK for anything from 1/2" up to about 1" thick, maybe more.
Wow, your setup technique worked great. Simple. Not sure why others like to complicate things. Weird what happens when you follow instructions and use common sense
Well ... you said it would make your day... so ... of COURSE I'll sub & like !! 🙄😂😂 Nice when you get lucky like that... but you did your research first so I hafta think you knew what ya were at 😏 All the best with your channel... from the Emerald Isle 😎👍☘
You ARE lucky. I have NEVER had success with those, I really wanted it to work. Part of it is that your fence must be very true, vertically, to the table, and yes keeping your material tight to the table is vital as well.
==== I can't get over how smart people are who invented this. You cut it one way. And then another way with a different orientation of the board. Genius. So many geniuses among us. It is like a multi purpose Rubik's cube ====
I don't know about lucky, I think 99.999% of your success can be attributed to your patience and diligently following the instructions. Overall great video! Thanks for sharing❗❗❗ 🙂🙂🙂 👍👍👍
I used similar bits to make long box beams back in the mid 80's in my cabinet shop. I used a shaper with a roller feeder to make sure I had pressure against the fence and table. Yes you should use a 'follow' block to reduce end blow outs, especially with hardwoods. They're really cool to work with, have fun.
Thanks, I next time I am going to use feather boards
Hit a void, lose your fingers. So yeah, featherboard is a good idea, as well as push block(s). Mark Eaton from Freud always recommended a dowel in a block to push; it becomes the sacrificial piece at the same time, and so easy to make there's no excuse for not using it. Enjoyed the video!
Yep, all good advice. I will be doing all of this next time I use it.
Three years this bit has been kept in the dark never to see the light of day but not now, thanks so much for this. Paul from UK
I've had one of these bits for almost a year now unfortunately I haven't had time to try it. I also bought a setup block which cost almost as much as the bit. After watching your video, I find it's a lot easier to set up then I thought. I'm currently working on another project, but as soon as I'm can, I'm going to make several boxes for all the fasteners I've collected over the years. Thanks again for the set up tips!
Terry Evans its a pretty easy bit to use. I am looking forward to using it in future projects.
give it a try. its not that bad.
I searched this video after finding this cutter in my drawer. I remember buying it years ago but never used it. Looks the business!
Ditto
Thanks for the common sense approach. I’m a 6 year woodworker at the age of 50. Simple is good for me 😊
Back in the 80's I worked in a cabinet shop building shallow oak display cases with lock-mitered corners made this way. Never tried a lock-miter with plywood the way you have. Though the lock-miter prevents joint movement during glue-up, the "tongues" on the cross-grain side of the lock-miter are extremely fragile, and routinely break as they did on your piece, often while milling or during glue up. Even a slight tweak of the two boards after assembly will snap off the tongues on the fragile side of the joint. I spent a lot of time reinserting broken tongue pieces during glue-up to fill the joint where they had snapped off. I think a biscuit-joint miter is actually stronger.
Hello, Congrats on Getting it dialed in so quickly...
I used to install false Post and Beams in Houses back in 2006-2008 and we used material that was milled using the “Lock Miter Bit. The material shipped out to us was Knoty Alder Glu-ups and we’re up to 16’ Long so the Mill we got it from must have had a Shaper with a Power Feeder. After Installation the product went under a “Distress mode” before it was Finished. The end result was Both Beautiful and Meticulous... Good Video Indeed... Greg
They must have a had a power feeder for material that long. Thanks for watching
Love the content. I started out building speaker boxes, now I'm looking at general woodworking and building shit. I think this bit will be a game changer.
I've seen this bit before but never seen it used. Thanks for sharing this. Will have to add this to my list of bits to buy.
1:52 Setup height 2:12 Setup depth fence
There also are jig from infinity and an other name that I forgot.
It would be great to make same jig as them ourself, because they are a bit expensive.
I found this one that you made 4 years ago after the one that you made 2 years ago ! ! !
😁
yup mine def didn't go that smoothly i didn't use the ruler trick though. might have to try that. def a good joint once fiddled with. good job! for the blowout i try to make pieces longer so i can just trim off for perfect ends but sometimes that doesn't pan out and block is needed.
give it a try. worked for me
Wow, thx for the info. I have one the bits and followed your instructions and it worked on the first try!
damn, that setup looked way easier than what I was watching. The top of the bit aligned with top of board seems way easier than finding center and lining up. The ruler against the fence was the other way i saw for setup, that seemed pretty straight forward.
Busy Bee Tools, a fine Canadian Company 🇨🇦. I shop there all the time, the Concord location. Thanks for the video!
I bought one of those bits years ago and have yet to use it cause I thought it was just a gimmick. Glad to see it actually works!
Thanks great video. Just got my bit and it took a few passes to set up. Now it is a hoot to use. Great bit. Great presentation for sure.
Nice one Wes. Good set up tips. You could also cut your pieces long and cut off the blow out after if you want.
Jim Dockrell that is a good tip. I may do just that. Thanks for watching.
i was going to ask if one could just make some stock size and cut off any blow out.
lUCKY YOU, THE SETUP TOOK ME 7 TRIES. works great now I saved #7 to use as a setup. Nice video.
WOW! DECENT BIT!
Thanks for the video!
no problem.
Thanks for your tutorial
would it make more sense to route one continuous edge of the stock, and then cut to length after?
No
So good for making columns!
Robin Lewis it is. And so many other things.
Ok now I got to have me one. Thanks for the video.
you won't regret it
Nicely done Wes! I have used that type of bit in the past & found that it's not that difficult to set up. Once you get it dialed in, as you did, just keep the off cuts for easy set up next time around. The great thing about that joint is that once you glue it up, it's not coming apart very easily! BTW, you have a new subscriber! :)
Thanks for subbing! I am thinking of making a stress test video of this joint. should be interesting.
Hey Wes, I don't wanna rain on your parade, but the joint should close as well inside as it does outside. You got it much closer than I did, I actually made so many test cuts that I dulled the bit and it's a bitch to sharpen. The thickness of your material is also very important. I don't know about baltic birch, but most plywood isn't actually 3/4 thick so those samples wouldn't work for setup blocks unless the material is exactly the same thickness. I watched a video where the fella set his up by marking half the thickness of his material and lining that up to middle point on the bit. I'm gonna try that.
it was good enough for me. next time I will try to dial it a lot better. I might try your technique to set it up.
I am just happy 😊 that you have your fingers intact
Abcdedghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz me too:) i am glad you know your alphabet!
yes i am impressed. good to see you reply to the comments. lignator jack ,england
its a pretty neat router bit. Thanks.
I keeping seeing this bit in ads online, wasn't sure how good it really was.
We'll now I am convinced they do work, however can you do a glue up? The joint is so good not sure where all the access glue would go.
Thanks for sharing I needed to see it from a trusted source.
Lucas Wood & Art it is slightly gapped. There should be room for glue. I will do a project video with this bit.
There is a method for cutting lock miters on the table saw, you may give it a shot before making the investment
That's is definitely a tool bit to have around the shop
Best explanation yet!
I have the same bit and I've rigged up my trim router to be a table router. I was wondering if I was routing to fast because it wouldnt cut straight. Atleast now I see how slow I should do it
Darien Charlton yeah. You need to slow down the rpm on your router and go slow but not to slow that you burn your wood. It’s a big bit. I recommend only using it in a variable speed router.
I’m one of those fellas that fought setting this router bit, can’t wait to try your idea. Great information, thanks for the suggestions. Nice vid. Jack/Missouri
NICE WORK THANKS FOR THE DEMO ...
First of your videos im seeing and let me tell you. Im definitly checking the rest out after watching this one. I recently had all my tools stolen, Garage BnE, anyway I just purshased the bosch 2 1/4 hp fixed and plunge kit. I have a freud router mounted in a table they didnt take (thank god) most of my shop time is going into the router now adays so ill love to see any other router videos you have! thanks for the quality content!!!!!
Chad Olmstead no problem, having your stuff stolen sucks. Have not had that happen to me yet. Do you now have a security system on your shop? I have been thinking about getting one
@@WesHamstra I just moved into a new part of town that isnt great. I've been looking at professional security companies as well as the more diy versions. I was making called and getting quotes from the locals when this all happened. Regardless. My insurance is saying unless I have receipts for my tools then I will not get retail value. the best i can claim for is "at cost" apparently meaning you go buy the same tool used for 100 bucks when i claimed a 800 bosch miter. I lost my house in a fire... two years ago so my paperwork for everything was lost. insurance is being less than understanding. im actually having tp use my IG and other random photos of my tools to prove I had them.
Long story short. record every tool purchase you want covered with receipt and item picture with receipt represent. They tell me recording helps identify thieves more than insurance, BUT it can help your claim if you have footage of the theives as well as if there was any signes of forces entry.
Chad Olmstead wow, you lost your house in a fire. Thats horrible.
I feel like i need an alarm system and maybe some cameras. after all i am showing the would to be theives all the tools I have in my videos.
@@WesHamstra haha in your shop tour video i saw your wide open big windows and i had a little heart attack! this guys gunna get got! but honetly though the part of city i am in is like shit. almost the worst in calgary. Im not surpirsed it happend just how fast it was is the shity part right before i got alarms lol
@@WesHamstra I have a joke about why old buildings burn down.... because they need too. Not saying your fire is a joking matter or your building should have burned, just made me think of my joke. I am a general contractor... and old buildings are sometimes a huge waste of time to remodel or fix.
122 people still cant figure it out. good video man
WOW what a great bit, nice tight fit, it's a lock!!
chris simon it sure is! Thanks
.... thats what SHE said ..
😏 🤣😂🤣😂
😎👍☘
Thanks for sharing. I was looking in to getting one too. But now I'm really going to go get me one hopefully I'm as lucky as you on my first try.
just do what I did and you will get close.
I notice all the videos on lock miter bits are shown cutting the long side with the grain. It seems to me that for most applications, building drawers and boxes, you would be crosscutting the end grain. Thoughts? Maybe another video showing how that cut works out?
Does it work on pvc board? Could be great for exterior column wraps if the pvc doesn't just crumble away.
I have no idea.
I have a column that has fallen apart at the bottom and needs fixed! Great idea!
Awesome, thanks for the demonstration !
Cléomènes Romero thanks
Seems like it would be a lot faster to cut the bulk of the mitre at the table saw them use the router bit to cut the fine detail. That way you might get less blow out since it's putting way less stress on the bit
I did think about that. My router table shares the fence with my table saw. so I didn't want to move my fence after I set it all up
Thanks for the video. I have a lock miter bit haven't used it yet thought the set up would take forever. Also didi know about standing one cut on edge.thank you.
glad to have helped you. thanks for watching
It's a tube ! Been wondering about buying one of those bits for making drawers. Just might have to do it now. Thanks for the video.
Make sure you buy the right one. This one only does 3/4" material. I might buy the smaller one that will do 1/2" material
@@WesHamstra -also I did not know there was a 1/2" one. 1/2" would be better for me. Thanks again !
Suggest using feather boards for safety. They help keep your fingers away from the bit. Oh, you mention feather boards at the 5:55 mark.
hahaha, Thanks.
Do these bits require you to use only 3/4" diameter wood? I would presume that if you want to use a different size then a separate bit is necessary.
beeveebee that is correct. You will need a smaller one for 1/2” wood
I got 3 of these cutters. A 2-7/16", 2-5/8" and a 3". They will cut a 1/2" a 3/4" and a 1" thickness.
None of these pieces has a diameter. Round pieces have a diameter. These have a thickness
Ben Wilson I know that was killing me too.
Couldn’t you just cut it afterwards? To rid yourself of the blowout? I sometimes make my stuff slightly longer than needed to prevent that. Nice demo.
that would work well. I might do that next time I use it.
Cool! Want one!
Easy on little pieces
That works pretty well. Thank you for showing us there is a blow out! Great video man!
Christofix - DIY Projects no problem, thanks for watching!
That thing is sweet ❤
Thank you for this video! And great job doing it at the first shot :) I was wondering if I can use this with my fixed base router since I don’t have a router table. Thank you in advance
I actually have the same router but a table
You have to use a router table.
@@WesHamstra right 🤦🏻♂️ since it doesn’t have a bearing. Thank you for the reply
Technically, it was your second try, but great video! Now I must have that bit...
Great looking table leg.
mike smith lol
While I applaud you nailing this on the first time, it doesn't really help anyone struggling to set this bit up to learn how to make adjustments when they (most likely) won't nail it on the first attempt.
well.. this video was not titled how to. it was merely just to show my attempt at it.
nice job, so easy!
Sorry to oppose what you have said, but that lock mitre bit will do a range of stock sizes and is not limited to 3/4". It depends very much on bit height and fence placement during setup, but your bit, at a guess, since it's a similar size to mine, should be OK for anything from 1/2" up to about 1" thick, maybe more.
When you say 1/2” do you mean actual 1/2” or would 7/16ths of an inch that is called 1/2 plywood work as well?
I see a trip to Busy Bee this week... thanks Wes
Andy Wyatt haha no problem. I love that store. I buy most of my tools from them.
Just bought the CX 212 table saw... I love it so far ☺
Great Job!
Well done Wes!
Nice work Wes! it's always neat when it works out the first time :) Thanks for sharing the video.👌👍😎JP
LOL, you started out slow, but success counts! Good job! Nice job showing how to measure the cuts before making them :) +1
That's a cool bit.
Hi thank you for the vid will try my one Saturday
Beautiful
Bonjour, je confirme cela fonctionne très bien avec se réglage, Merci 👍🇫🇷
You might wanna do something about the poor acoustics of your workshop - could be a major comfort boost!
Ive been having these thoughts. I am thinking about adding some noice deadening to the walls
I went over most of your previous videos and they were very useful ... so now you have (27, 968) subscribers + (1) ... oh , and a (like) ... :-)
Legit. I haven't gone over the old stuff (and I will!), but new sub here, too, with the "all" bell tap. Great vid! :-)
Thanks! My videos will only get better
Nice vid.....never seen that bit before, I might have to get one
Don't confuse luck with skill
Good job
Thank you
Lucky took me 5 times to get it dead perfect but it dose depend on what material you use
Smart work always helps :)
thank you
I wonder if you could put a bottom on that.
What the min thickness of birch ply can you use 3/8 1/2
Wow, your setup technique worked great. Simple. Not sure why others like to complicate things. Weird what happens when you follow instructions and use common sense
Got it in the first try😊👌nice looking joinery. Thank you
Mahendra Tiwari thanks!
Well ... you said it would make your day... so ... of COURSE I'll sub & like !! 🙄😂😂
Nice when you get lucky like that... but you did your research first so I hafta think you knew what ya were at 😏
All the best with your channel... from the Emerald Isle 😎👍☘
hahah, thanks. this video is doing so well its made my week.
Yeah, I totally subbed today too, and that bit just made me a bit happier to do so 😂😍😁
You ARE lucky. I have NEVER had success with those, I really wanted it to work. Part of it is that your fence must be very true, vertically, to the table, and yes keeping your material tight to the table is vital as well.
Thanks for the video reallycool
J Duke thanks
Awesome !
Seems like those bits would dull very quickly what with the work they do. And for the price, I’m thinking, what, $85?
Pretty cool though.
I picked mine up for $50. I am thinking that if you were to hog away most of the material first on a table saw it should put less strain on the bit.
Hi Wes. Is i possible to use that mitre bit to mitre in a fifth side as in a bottom to your column for example?
Awesome
is lock miter bit matched with mini trimmer??
What do you use for your router plate? Thanks for sharing.
No edge banding needed for this joint na?
Nice!
Nice!💜
Cool Vid Wes!
Cheers,
Wes
Wes thanks wes
Good video
Excellent joint bit. Would you bother with screws or nails if you glued ? Or maybe just a pin nail ?
I am not the person you asked, but if you would ask me, i would say big NO. This is a hell of a joint. With glue its indestructible.
@@dekurvajo thanks for that. I can't find a bit for the thickness wood I use. 33mm thick.
@@michaeljones1715 omg.. What do you build? A wooden tank?
@@dekurvajo lol. No , Native Beehives. Thicker wood for better insulation properties.
Nice product. Hope they ship to the US.
Seth Bracken i believe busy bee has US stores
Is it only good for 3/4" wood or is there a range of sizes it will work for?
yes, this one is only good for 3/4" might work for 5/8" or even 7/8". they make smaller bits for 1/2" material
@@WesHamstra What about a 2x2 furring strips. I want to make some some soffits and use this to put it together
Nice
holy crap!!
Should have made the bit its own little box with your setup peices
Does this bit allow top a top and bottom? My guess is yes. Input please from someone who uses this bit regularly is appreciated.