I am a paint sprayer and I have always used panel wipe just before spraying a base coat or lacquer so will be giving this ago on a couple of small parts to see how I get on. I am also in the UK and it's nice to see some UK videos for a change, keep up the good work and thanks for sharing ;-)
this channel is a marvel, precisely because you do insane testing and backup things by arguments - a long video like this is a breeze cause it's interesting and useful. a lot of money saved by your explanations and recommendations, not just about IPA
Finally. I figured if anybody had done this it would be you. I made my own after spending $25 for 16oz of hype. As with everything else you do, nicely done.
Chemically speaking this video is quite accurate. However IPA will not allow heavy oils to evaporate, and as the IPA evaporates the heavier dissolved oils will just be smeared out to a finer degree, but coupled with water and SLS low levels of surface waxes and silicones will dissolve and or emulsify readily which can be easily wiped off. So spray and wipe off is key. SLS is a Surfactant which is short for surface activating agent which just means it allows for 'wetting' by breaking down surface resistance to water via some interesting chemistry. Great stuff, great video! This stuff will work and save a fortune! Occasionally for removing those horrible tar spots I use xylene and a soft cloth, but that stuff whilst works better for waxes and silicone removal needs good ventilation and is not as safe chemically. This guy would make a great industrial chemist!
I also use the home made IPA Wipe while polishing, and use a high end PW before putting down any serious coating. Instead of SLS, I use some of the high end PW mixed with IPA and Distilled Water. Works great! I feel like you and I have a similar thought process when it comes to a lot of detailing stuff, great minds think alike right? Haha
Hey Jon, Thanks for the informative video! I was wondering what companies use to give the Wipe out Products like "Eraser" or "Prep" a little fresh scent to it but without adding something that remains on the surface afterwards. Is it etheric oils ? Do you have an idea?
Great video. I've come to similar conclusions and as a result basically use the same method. I use a home made IPA/distilled water mix as I'm working to check my work in between passes and then a quick wipe down with Prep-All from Kleanstrip as a final cleanser to make sure it's perfectly clean before applying any sealants or coatings. Prep-All is fairly reasonably priced, here in the states at least, at about 28 USD shipped for a gallon. You can get it as an aerosol too, but the straight liquid is cheaper by volume of course. It's designed to be a body shop paint prep, but it's clear coat safe as long as you buff it off within a couple minutes. Anyway, just thought I'd share for anyone in the Americas who might be scouring the comments for options, since we can't easily get the Bilt Hamber stuff over here.
SecretSauceyjuice th-cam.com/users/SecretSauceyjuice- I will be carrying the Bilt Hamber for the USA, please contact me for what you are looking for and I will be able to distribute some products for you. Sorry Jon to take this comment over. contact via email: jaredwcx@gmail.com
Good topic and tips, thanks john. Always explained in a way anyone can understand. BTW, Its not Surfacant, its Surfactant Sur(ace) act(ive) ant (agent). “A substance which tends to reduce surface tension (friction/ bonding etc) of a liquid in which it is dissolved”. Special Soap to most of us :-)
Very intresting video! Ive always used only destilated dionized water and 99% ipa 80/20blend ratio. How strong is your blend? And one big question that ive read alot about is were the limit is when it could damage the clearcoat? How big difference would the sles do if added to the mix?
Quiet hard find anywhere near me distilled water, most likely online. But I have plenty at work deionised water for reach trucks batteries. So for sure I can use deionised water? Heard about 12-15% dilution completely safe for paintwork. Sounds good for you? Greetings from Kent, Tom.
Will be purchasing and mixing when I get my machine polisher.great video.looking forward to the next video/review you make/put on the channel.ive got 3 or 4 to watch now.tben I'll have watched them all.this is the best channel to those people who love to take care of there cars.
Great info Jon. Being mobile, I don't do coatings, just been using a mix of IPA & DI Water and it works fine, but will definitely get some SLES and add that to the mix and good tip on the colouring too. Thanks for these vids.....just received the China pads & the Adams car shampoo - looking forward to trying them out.
Great video! Would love to see a homemade fragrance diy guide. I tried CarPro's fragrance after your review, love the smell but it just doesn't last long enough and the price isnt the cheapest.
its kind of too subtle isnt it... I actually like spraying it on the cabin air filter, rather than coating it over a surface.. in terms of homebrew though you better off just buying a product I think.. check out company called FJAS for all things scent related..
Hi, where can i buy the color for the Cleaner? Is it a special color you are using or can i use color for food for this product? Thanks for helping. A link would be great.
Thanks Jon for this channel. Love your detail, your humor, and music. Have learned a lot from you. Looked through all the comments, and did not find this question. I have read elsewhere that Distilled water and Deionized water are different. Distilled water is much easier to find and much cheaper. Which one should I use? Thanks
Two technical notes: 1) You can use 70% or 90% IPA as the remainder is just water. Just adjust your ratio a bit. 2) As solvents evaporate they do not carry oils away with them. They leave a very thin film of the oil behind.
I thought that evaporation thing sounded a bit too good to be true.. but It was something I read elsewhere.. so basically is disolves oil to make it thinner right within the solvent, so that thinner liquid is easier to mop up? tell me all you know I love details :)
@@ForensicDetailing basically yes, a good example is how it's used in computer building. Those of us tech geeks who build our own custom PCs use high % isopropyl alcahol to remove thermal grease from the CPU and heatsink otherwise its a right mess to clean up. Plus with the bare metal it gets most of the residue off.
Have 3 questions if you would be so kind...what IPA would you recommend as a wipe down in between primer/base coat/clear coat on my plastic motorcycle fairings as I've creating a one off graphics design? (p.s. using rattle cans with a hand held adaptor for better control & 2000 wet sanding in between coats). Process is to apply grey primer, wet sand P2000, IPA, apply base coat matte black, P2000, IPA, then apply glossy Aprilia graphics decals, IPA, then apply final gloss clear coat & allow to cure 48 hrs. Then will need to address the small amount of light orange peel & make the panels 'pop' as if brand new. Have completed the rear seat cowl cover &, for a first go, am humbly impressed but feel that I could still achieve a better result with the right products & as the technique improves. I have recently bought a DA6 copy (Extreme Challenger version from Argos at £57 & coming to grips with the feel of it). I will need to purchase a 70mm backing plate (has the same 5/16" (M8) setup as a DS6 pro). I like the write ups on the hex logic type pads. Watched your vid on Chinese pads but as this is my first go at this, think I need all the help I can get from quality pads & compounds/polishes. Would be grateful if you could guide me on what steps to follow & what pads & compounds/polishes you would recommend (poss Scholl, Menzerna etc.) as it may be different for plastics as opposed to steel/aluminium panel painting & paint correction techniques? I'm in your hands...Cheers
Hi mate!! as always grade informative vid!, and you just set a formula for HB IPA PW... a quick question that dint mention on the video what if you wipe for second time the panel ? is that oils going to be removed?
its a water based dye, came with the AG homebrew kit.. Joe from autoglanz would prolly hook you up with dyes and fragerences for water based products if you drop him a PM... in fact he may already sell them in the homebrew section of his site.. otherwise FJAS are a good bet.
Jon, you have suggested F-JAS for fragrance additives. I am looking to try and give the Gtechniq detailed a some life. I like the product, but I do like a scented product when finished. I have sent an inquiry, but do you have any comments on do's or don'ts?
SLES helps mate... buff it all off first just with a cloth and really use the IPA after the panel looks clean to remove the traces left behind after a buff with no IPA if that makes sense.
Not really. This is for post polishing. Wax is one option for sealant. So most of the time it’s clay bar. Two stage polish. Wipe down like this. Then apply a durable sealant. Wax normally doesn’t last very long but dowse give good short tem finish. So I would polish a car say once / twice a year. As a very durable sealant and then maybe wax every now and again to protect it and give it a quick shine. This spray is to remove the polish residue really.
Interested in mixing up something like this to use, just to try it out. What are your thoughts on using a small amount of APC in place of SLES? I've seen some videos recommend it, was just wondering if SLES was worth picking up, I can 250ml and it's pretty inexpensive. If I could just use APC with similar results though I'd rather just use that as I have loads of it around already.
My glass cleaner has all of those chemical but also has Butyl Cellosolve Solvent and fragance. So is it safe to use it instead of the IPA you made in this video ?
Hey John I would like to ask you something. I think his name was Scot, the guy from Dallas paint correction said that IPA is not good for the clear cot. What is you opinion on that matter? Thanks for your video, very informative as usual.
hydrocarben solvents are more powerfull. If I took a hot sunny day with a baking hot test panel and used a pure solvent panel wipe product. if I put it on the panel in a line and leave it, that line could swell and go opaque (potentially). if I did the same thing with IPA I can never make the clear swell. when its knocked down with water and just the nature of IPA as a polar solvent it just cant seem to do any harm. ISO wipedowns are also used at a manufacturing level by all the main car brands, paint shops up and down the country who have a lot of experience with clearcoats. and just simply from using it I cant see any negative effects. I do buy that the IPA and water wipedown is not as effective as other products though, like I say the pure hydrocarben stuff is on a different level. with any products its about how you use them more than anything, base temp of the clear coat is very important, as is the quality of the clearcoat or type of clearcoat. the main attack on IPA wipedowns has come from the detailing industry. It started as far as I can tell with brands that offered panel prep type products. problem is some of these products cost an arm and a leg. So there needs to be a powerfull reason to backup to people why you need to spend like lots of money on their degreaser products. I would suggest you try using the IPA mix in this video, you can also experiment with lowering the ISO level down and using some limonene. see if your clearcoat swells. If your really interested in all this stuff get a test panel you can mess around with. If you manage to swell clear with IPA and water let me know. you can argue perhaps its the continuall used of IPA that might be the concern, but again I cant see it. I might do an IPA wipe down on the car once a year I dont think that will stress the clearcoat anymore than covering it in a paste wax thats loaded with hydrocarbons and leaving the wax on the panel for 20 mins etc.. dunno lots of people I respect have a different opinion than me on this one. If the industry could provide me a nice water miscible wipe down solvent, that was nicer to work with and I could get for a reasonable price I would be in. they do have those products but the price is insane and like they sell them in tiny bottles you blast your way though instantly.
Forensic Detailing Channel Thanks for thorough answer John, I’ll use IPA and will pay attention if it does any harm to clear coat, and if i see something make sure you’ll be the first one to find out 😉
It's ideal to start with highest purity possible of each chemical. You guarantee that you know what you're mixing and it makes the math easier. However, the 70% prediluted IPA is probably not contaminated with any minerals so I wouldn't worry about it if that's all you've got. Short answer: it's most likely fine.
Great video very informative I d like to ask though if instead of IPA I could use ethyl alcohol, as in my country IPA is not easily accessible or expensive. I now both are in general rubbing alcohol but most of the detailing info specifically refer to IPA, is there any ingredient in ethyl alcohol that makes it unsuitable for this purpose? Thank you in advance!
This video just came up in my recommendations; excellent and insightful video. Interesting choice of SLES as a surfactant; not one I've used but it is certainly inexpensive and effective. I have both Tergitol NP-9 and Triton X-100 in stock in my house, so if/when I mix mine up I'll grab one of those and may tinker with the percentage. I've also thought about adding a small amount of butyl cellosolve to it to help remove real tough stuff such as Jescar (Menzerna) Power Lock Plus.
Thanks again for another informative video. I've been meaning to ask you two questions about this formula.. 1) Can we substitute 20 ml of APC if we can't find SLES? 2) WHAT type of dye did you use? Thanks again for all the work you do in making these very informative videos! Cheers from Kelly in Canada 🇨🇦
you could put some APC in there but hmm not sure whats in all the different APC's and SLES is so cheap Id get some of that. (you can use it as APC as well for interiors) I just used a water based dye from the autoglanz homebrew kit. I think joe sells them seperately on the autoglanz site, Im sure he will hook you up with some dye if you message them. **doh you in canada, dont worry about the dye honestly its not that important, just a bit of bling**
Yo Chris its not really a suitable cleaner as such.. but you could use it to degrease a car with a coating on.. to them perhaps top that coating up for example.
gut instinct says no John.. Vinegar's cleaning properties come from its acidic nature.. So its a good mild descalar etc. whereas with polish removal you are looking for solvents that are effective at disolving oil and carrying it away... that are also not going to damage your clearcoat.
Interesting video! but isnt it a 2:1 instead of 3:1?? Also its pretty strong, Brian from Apex said not to use more then 12% of IPA, and your using a 50/50 Mix really so its like 50% IPA and 50% water. Never had any paint issues?
My maths use to be bad too. Let me dumb it down for you and anyone that is confused. 50/50 mix of 50% solution would be 100% solution to 100% water. To calculate volume percentage add the liquids together (670+300+30=1000). Divide the solution (300ml) by total volume (1000) = 0.3. Multiply the answer by 100 which gives you 30%. Hope this helps.
*More Helpful Information* If you use 70% alcohol, first work out 70% of the volume of solution (300×70%=210) then divide that by total solution (1000) × 100 which will result in 21% mix.
So much better than the bullshit from most detailing videos. Always get the idea that most of them are sponsored by the product they seem to use when they slag off IPA. This seems to make sense...
theres a lot of BS about IPA out there. The reason being you can mix up lots and lots of products for hardly any money. so in order to convince you to spend like £10+ for a tiny bottle of spray there needs to be a good dose of BS or anti IPA sentiment. Put it this way. Koch Chemie who have been making OEM automotive abrasives for more than 60 years, sell and recomend an IPA based wipe down product for their abrasives. And this is used by car manaufacturers. Its only mis-use of IPA that will swell clearcoat.
Just a question , can one use prepsol Trying to remove the wax instead ? , a friend of my owns a panel beating shop and he prepsols the panels before painting to get it clean? Would it work with polishing too?
check the MSDS for it and look what its using.. It will most likely be a more potent cocktail of solvents that are more effective at degreasing a panel.. sometimes these products are intended as prep products for respray/bodyshop works.. they work for sure but check whats in them before deciding if its suitable for polish removal... I still think personally you are better off using a high water and low IPA blend just because its very cost effective, and then a spritz of something you trust like carpro eraser or BH cleanser etc...
Previous comment by me made little sense - went to your link and they wanted £8 for delivery - on amazon I got 5 litres delivered for less than £6 - as a starter with a few drops of Fairy I think you can beat £3/litre - Bilt Hamber is a great scrubber for old wax/coatings
TIP: I had some Adams coloured snow foam lying around (I tried it, didn't like it for foaming the car) . Instead of adding SLES and dye, just add a cap full of coloured snow foam and you'll get the same effect but with a nice added scent.
I know im very late to this conversation but would you say this degreaser/panel wipe would be the same as bodyshop panel wipe? Im a painter/panel beater and we use sikkens m700 degreaser in 5l containers and it doesnt leave anything behind be it before painting or inbetween denib/polishing but i guess that would be quite expensive for a home detailer.
so sikkens is probably a pure hydrocarbon a bit like tetrysl pre wipe degreaser. Its slow flash time slow evaporation rate and needs higher temp to flash. you need to let the hydrocarbons vape off the panel for longer, and you need that work ship environment to maintain temp. when you use a hydrocarbon at home like for me now in the winter it actually does not vape of the car well below 10 deg so I run risk of putting a protective product on top of a thin layer of mineral spirit... they kick out stronger vapours as well. I think IPA is better and cheap for simple inspection wipe downs. (with some detegent to emulsfiiy)
Hi mate, what's your take on panel sprays like Carpro Eraser? Should i just use an IPA for cutting stages then a specialised panel spray just before the final stage polish, or immediately after the final polish and before your sealant/wax/ceramic?
I like eraser and prep.. They are water based panel wipes which I believe are mainly backboned with alcohol solvent. The problem with them is purly price. they are about 50 pounds for 5 litres ready mixed.. And really about 70% of these products is water. When you buy 5 litres of IPA for 15 quid. You can make 20 litres of panel wipe. I also find the IPA homebrew just as effective. So its up to you really if the price thing is not important just buy prep or eraser.
@@ForensicDetailing Is there other surfactant products you could recommend? I'm in australia and can't find anywhere that sells SLES. Alot of what I can find is surfactants used for application of herbicide/pesticide/fertiliser. Would dishwashing liquid work as an alternative?
@forensicdetailingchannel hey Jon in this video you use 670ml deionised water 300ml 99% ipa 20-25ml sles Tiny drop of dye Can I use bilt hamber surfex HD APC instead of sles if yes how much ml of liquid would you recommend...? Would it be same amount as sles 20-25ml...? Thank you in advance
Thanks for the great video! I would love to see a video with some information about tape, and the differences between cheap painter tape, and the more expensive ones. A lot of detailer's seem to use green or blue tape, interested in the reason why.
its generally just for low tack.. as far as I know the top surface of "detailers tape" is the same material as any masking tape... I think the green stuff might be the frog tape that builders use over the top of paint because its very low tack.. not sure..
Hi Jon@ Forensic Detailing What kind of coloring is recommended to add (what is the make-up of it and what is safe?) Does the coloring have a scent? Or could you add a scent to it? Thanks Jon (sorry I misspelled your name before)
hey JW you can just skip the dye, its really only if you have an opaque bottle so you can see it. but Im using a water based dye from the autoglanz homebrew kit
Yes I just saw a post down the page where you stated your comment. When I watched this a while back, your response was not posted at that time. Thank you Jon for all your input and fun videos. Jared
Hey Jon. Using IPA for initial wipedown, but ill come back with a second panel wipe solution like Gyeon Prep or Gtechniq's Panel Wipe before laying a coating. If its just a sealant I find IPA is fine.
yer thats kind of the way Im recomending you do it.. I think the IPA mix its suitable enough for your wipe downs during the sets where you need to inspect but dont need to get it all off and you know your gonna be going again on the same spot.. And when done use the premium products if you want for the final wipedown before sealants... otherwise you will add 10-15 quid chemical cost per car..
Thanks - that is great info ! I had just emailed Menzerna re their residue removal product "Control Cleaner" & then came across your video. I'm off to the shop to mix up a batch using your formula - I restore classic auto woodwork - right now polishing a 1962 RRT Silver Cloud 2 interior set. Best regards - Frank Burns USA
Great Lesson. Please I have important questions: 1.Can we use a 5% laundry detergent non sent type as an alternative to SLES?. Because we don't have this in our country. 2. For coating with nano ceramic some Panel wipe stated it is using 45% isopropyl do you think it is necessary? 3. Do you think this is good for cleaning paint layer between spray paint steps just like grace and tac cleaner? 4. Can I use this for removing petroleum solvent solutions such as benzene and Kerosene mixes that is used to clean tar and over spray paint?
hey feras.. 1) I wouldnt mate god knows whats in it.. perhaps use an APC. 2) 45% sounds a bit high. I personally wont use just an ISO homebrew to prep for a ceramic. I believe like I said in this video theres more effective degreasers using different chemical formats. but 20-30% max seems to be the concensus. 3) no I dont think its good for that. most of the bodyshop degreasers are hydrocarbon based. could be wrong its going beyond my limited knowledge that one and I would be theres bodyshops using ISO that way. 4) you should not have to use ISO to remove kereson or benezene tar and glue removers. Its a bit like using a soap to wash away a prefer soap. actually its not but basically no mate.
Just did a comparison of the total product COST D2D (product+vat+shipping) of a litre of Bilt Hamber cleaning fluid (£35.85) (D2D) whereas the FD 'Home Brew' is £6.33 per Ltr (D2D) a saving of £29.53 per Ltr. That a clean 82.4% saving over using an off the counter ready made product. Good work Jon & I'll be trying it for that amount of savings. (p.s. savings are based on buying 1 Ltr bottles of IPA & SLES, plus 5 Lts of deionised water)
you can buy the candel wax dyes on ebay but I dont like them so much.. for wax your better off using solvent based dye liquids or powders... for QD your better off using a water based dye. Have a word with Joe from autoglanz he can hook you up. that pink dye I use is from his homebrew QD kit.
Hi john just been reading this stuff damaged the clear coat and you shouldn’t use it at all. Looking to use it next week to machine polish my bonnet and get it looking nice Again, what’s your opinion on this? Thanks
Hi Jon. I have been told that you can use window cleaner as panel wipe. Is that true? It was said to me in person by a guy that works for a very big detailng company. I was wondering if that can actually be true. If so, window cleaner is much cheaper that dedicated panel wipe or IPA. But then there is also the home made one like you are showing here in this video. Now, I am not sure if where I live I can find these ingredients. I really have to search hard for that. I am orgnanizing myself to start my valeting/detailing business. Best regards mate, Alexis
So for someone on a budget small budget would ipa and water get most of the oil off and then wash with plane dish soap and and water then ipa again be ok for coating with a ceramic coating be ok ?
on the final wipedown before ceramic you should look to use a proper panel wipe product. perhaps a product from the guys that supply the coating. I favour bilt hamber cleaner fluid though. you could also check out gtechniq panel wipe.. so ipa for 99% of the wipedowns.. proper product for the final wipedown adam
What about using clay ? Should i use it? If i should, should it be before or after ipa wipedown? Do you recommend using clay bar at all? I live in a country where this stuff is imported so its really hard to even find a clay bar, let alone finding it at a reasonable price thats why this info is really important for me. Thanks in advance
@@ForensicDetailing after the comment i went through all your clay bar videos, the thing is i dont really know if i should invest on it or just do an ipa wipedown and apply carnauba on top. Another question, i have bought koch chemie s0.01 finishing wax but i am not sure if i should apply it on carnauba wax right after the application of carnauba or should i let carnauba stay on the paint a few hours for the wax to bond with the paint ( or maybe a few days) and apply koch chemie s0.01 finishing wax after it hardens. Koch chemie doesn't state on the label
@@doraduman clay bar is basically 100% essential. you cannot be without it. And you cannot replace it with IPA. You need to watch the videos... If you have rough paint covered in bonded contamination the paintwork will feel dull, look dull, and its pointless IPA's and waxing it. You will just be sticking material on top of debris or contamination. Invest in clay bar Pudin. If in doubt use one product and follow manufacturer instructions. Sealants need to go on clean prep'd surface to bond properly... Wax's generally benefit from clean prep'd surface but you can just stick them ontop of stuff... hope this helps sorry I have to do most communicating through videos now.
yes mate so when doing with all the polishing, get a good panel wipe product you trust.. I use bilt hamber cleasner.. and clean down all the panels with the product so its a bare panel with no product.. this will help most forms of sealant to bond.
Forensic Detailing Channel thank you again for your fast reply! I am doing my F150 truck today and maybe tomorrow too, getting ready for winter up here in Nebraska USA where it snows several feet, not inches 😁
Hi! Would an APC work in place of an IPA solution? For example, Meguiars APC. They tend to be cheaper as well (not as cheap as the home-brewed version, of course).
Bobby Finnrose Yes, I use some APC in stead of the mentioned SLES. Because APC is working about the same and most of us already use it for general cleaning purposes on cars already.
I always thought a 10% mix of IPA (99%) to distilled water was the typical strength. Your suggesting a lot stronger Jon... where do you get your ratio from out of curiosity?
Yo B. 10% might be fine for lots of water based products (or abrasives that contain a higher relative amount of water to oil).. I do pretty much all my machining with scholl or menz which are a lot more oily.. So I run right at the upper eschalons of the ratio.. I just find it works better than low ratio mixes.. but I tend to never go lower than 20% IPA just from what I find works best for me...
ages tazz.... months and months and month.. prolly a year. not sure :) doh you will use it before it runs out though.. if not just tip and make some more.
you can use a hydrocarbon based panel wipe yes. but these are typically slower to flash versus IPA. So much so in winter for example if you use a mineral spirit your panel wipe may not flash at all if you are outside or in a cold garage. they require qorkship environments. the strength of IPA is it will always flash and flash fast. Dont use DIY type mineral spirits use hydrocarbon panel wipes from detailing brands UPOL tetrysl etc etc.
Hey Jon the links have expired in the description. Has ipa always been fairly expensive or has the prices been inflated due to covid-19? eBay 1L off 99% ipa is around £29.
I've tried mixing up something of this nature. It seems to work well, but it remains extremely grabby once you've wiped most of it off. This in contrast to commercial offerings such as CarPro Eraser and Gyeon Q2M Prep that seem to have a slickness to it during the wipe-off process all the way til it's fully evaporated. Just an observation; wondering what secret ingredient they put in and what difference it makes.
maybe lower the IPA and up the detergent.. prolly best to just wipe away with no ipa first as well.. get most of it off the panel and then a little spritz..
You say a couple of drops of dish wash liquid. what do mean by that? Sorry to sound pedantic but his recipe stated 25 MLS which a whole lot more than a couple of drops that you are suggesting. Could you please a little more accurate?
@@jhndijkman I've made up this ipa mixture but instead of SLES, used a mild liquid APC (Mr muscle) and used 12.5ml in a 1 litre mixture. For dish soap I would try 2.5ml as it's thick and concsntrated. It's trial and error, so maybe just make up a 250ml mixture and see how it goes.
Jon, if I watched this video once, I’ve watched it ten times or more. I am finally going to ask why. You never stipulate perentages. What is the concentration of IPA you intended to make? Your mix is 30% IPA. Is that what you use and prefer, is so, why? I have read its not good to go over 20% although i have made it higher. Really would like to know your comments please.
I use about 28% IPA I think. mainly because the scholl concepts stuff is a bit thicker. generally Ill wipe down the panel wipeout anything. then if I want to inspect squizz some of this on the panel and buff it out gently. i think optimum said something about a rough upper limit of around 25%. to be honest I dont think and extra 4% will do much. with solvents its more about not letting them dry on the panel. IPA's mixed down with water like this are less harsh than a lot of things potentially. the biggest downside is not risk with this.. its just like people say I dont think IPA is the most effective chemical for this. but thats just based on perhaps casual observations. Ive got no plans though to switch over to expensive panel wipes for quick inspection wipedowns. gotta be cheap and fit for purpose, untill we get to the final prep product and then I want something abit more effective.
I dont really use this to remove wax I just use it for polish residue buffing really.. Ill use lime prime or a wizz over with polish or a stronger product.
I am a paint sprayer and I have always used panel wipe just before spraying a base coat or lacquer so will be giving this ago on a couple of small parts to see how I get on. I am also in the UK and it's nice to see some UK videos for a change, keep up the good work and thanks for sharing ;-)
Not sure if you'll see this post as your post is 4mth old now. If you used this Panel wipe, how did you get on with it?
this channel is a marvel, precisely because you do insane testing and backup things by arguments - a long video like this is a breeze cause it's interesting and useful. a lot of money saved by your explanations and recommendations, not just about IPA
Finally. I figured if anybody had done this it would be you. I made my own after spending $25 for 16oz of hype. As with everything else you do, nicely done.
Chemically speaking this video is quite accurate. However IPA will not allow heavy oils to evaporate, and as the IPA evaporates the heavier dissolved oils will just be smeared out to a finer degree, but coupled with water and SLS low levels of surface waxes and silicones will dissolve and or emulsify readily which can be easily wiped off. So spray and wipe off is key. SLS is a Surfactant which is short for surface activating agent which just means it allows for 'wetting' by breaking down surface resistance to water via some interesting chemistry. Great stuff, great video! This stuff will work and save a fortune! Occasionally for removing those horrible tar spots I use xylene and a soft cloth, but that stuff whilst works better for waxes and silicone removal needs good ventilation and is not as safe chemically. This guy would make a great industrial chemist!
I also use the home made IPA Wipe while polishing, and use a high end PW before putting down any serious coating. Instead of SLS, I use some of the high end PW mixed with IPA and Distilled Water. Works great! I feel like you and I have a similar thought process when it comes to a lot of detailing stuff, great minds think alike right? Haha
BPSDetailing when you say high end PW do you mean stuff like autosmart panel wipe for an example?
Would it make sense to use a APC (Koch Chemie Green Star) instead of the SLES since I don´t have SLES?
Hey Jon,
Thanks for the informative video!
I was wondering what companies use to give the Wipe out Products like "Eraser" or "Prep" a little fresh scent to it but without adding something that remains on the surface afterwards.
Is it etheric oils ? Do you have an idea?
Frederic Golz Did you ever find an answer to this? I am also curious.
Thank you! Will it be ok to polish by hand as I don’t have a machine.
Great video. I've come to similar conclusions and as a result basically use the same method. I use a home made IPA/distilled water mix as I'm working to check my work in between passes and then a quick wipe down with Prep-All from Kleanstrip as a final cleanser to make sure it's perfectly clean before applying any sealants or coatings. Prep-All is fairly reasonably priced, here in the states at least, at about 28 USD shipped for a gallon. You can get it as an aerosol too, but the straight liquid is cheaper by volume of course. It's designed to be a body shop paint prep, but it's clear coat safe as long as you buff it off within a couple minutes.
Anyway, just thought I'd share for anyone in the Americas who might be scouring the comments for options, since we can't easily get the Bilt Hamber stuff over here.
SecretSauceyjuice th-cam.com/users/SecretSauceyjuice- I will be carrying the Bilt Hamber for the USA, please contact me for what you are looking for and I will be able to distribute some products for you. Sorry Jon to take this comment over.
contact via email: jaredwcx@gmail.com
Hell yeah, watched this video from the states! Helped me out a lot! Great information!!
Good topic and tips, thanks john. Always explained in a way anyone can understand.
BTW, Its not Surfacant, its Surfactant Sur(ace) act(ive) ant (agent). “A substance which tends to reduce surface tension (friction/ bonding etc) of a liquid in which it is dissolved”. Special Soap to most of us :-)
I pronounce it surf - act - ant (is that what you meant?)
Possibly Jon has a dislike of surfers.
Very intresting video! Ive always used only destilated dionized water and 99% ipa 80/20blend ratio. How strong is your blend? And one big question that ive read alot about is were the limit is when it could damage the clearcoat?
How big difference would the sles do if added to the mix?
Quiet hard find anywhere near me distilled water, most likely online. But I have plenty at work deionised water for reach trucks batteries. So for sure I can use deionised water? Heard about 12-15% dilution completely safe for paintwork. Sounds good for you? Greetings from Kent, Tom.
can this formula be applied to the glass ??, thanks for the knowledge
Yes, absolutely.
Brilliant video , what ratios are you doing to make the ipa? I’m planning on getting some and making some but with just the ipa and de ironised water
Will be purchasing and mixing when I get my machine polisher.great video.looking forward to the next video/review you make/put on the channel.ive got 3 or 4 to watch now.tben I'll have watched them all.this is the best channel to those people who love to take care of there cars.
So can any confirm if you can use dishwater soap or something else instead of sles? its super hard to find here :(
Shogun Gaming : for alternative, you can replace it with APC (all purpuse cleaner) in the same amount.......cheers
Great info Jon. Being mobile, I don't do coatings, just been using a mix of IPA & DI Water and it works fine, but will definitely get some SLES and add that to the mix and good tip on the colouring too. Thanks for these vids.....just received the China pads & the Adams car shampoo - looking forward to trying them out.
thanks miles let me know how you get on mate
Let us know how the china pads do! Thanks!
Great video! Would love to see a homemade fragrance diy guide. I tried CarPro's fragrance after your review, love the smell but it just doesn't last long enough and the price isnt the cheapest.
its kind of too subtle isnt it... I actually like spraying it on the cabin air filter, rather than coating it over a surface..
in terms of homebrew though you better off just buying a product I think.. check out company called FJAS for all things scent related..
Hi, where can i buy the color for the Cleaner? Is it a special color you are using or can i use color for food for this product? Thanks for helping. A link would be great.
Thanks Jon for this channel. Love your detail, your humor, and music. Have learned a lot from you.
Looked through all the comments, and did not find this question. I have read elsewhere that Distilled water and Deionized water are different. Distilled water is much easier to find and much cheaper. Which one should I use?
Thanks
It wont make a huge difference but you should use deionized if you want to be elite. but filtered is fine.
Hi mate nice video.
Just wondered, couldn't you use vinegar or lime, as they have grease cutting properties?
They are acidic and so could damage clearcoat. This mixture will better dissolve oils in polish/compound
Great video... have you got a new link to the ipa as it doesnt appear to be working now and is going to page not found?
Two technical notes: 1) You can use 70% or 90% IPA as the remainder is just water. Just adjust your ratio a bit. 2) As solvents evaporate they do not carry oils away with them. They leave a very thin film of the oil behind.
I thought that evaporation thing sounded a bit too good to be true.. but It was something I read elsewhere.. so basically is disolves oil to make it thinner right within the solvent, so that thinner liquid is easier to mop up? tell me all you know I love details :)
@@ForensicDetailing basically yes, a good example is how it's used in computer building. Those of us tech geeks who build our own custom PCs use high % isopropyl alcahol to remove thermal grease from the CPU and heatsink otherwise its a right mess to clean up. Plus with the bare metal it gets most of the residue off.
Have 3 questions if you would be so kind...what IPA would you recommend as a wipe down in between primer/base coat/clear coat on my plastic motorcycle fairings as I've creating a one off graphics design? (p.s. using rattle cans with a hand held adaptor for better control & 2000 wet sanding in between coats). Process is to apply grey primer, wet sand P2000, IPA, apply base coat matte black, P2000, IPA, then apply glossy Aprilia graphics decals, IPA, then apply final gloss clear coat & allow to cure 48 hrs. Then will need to address the small amount of light orange peel & make the panels 'pop' as if brand new. Have completed the rear seat cowl cover &, for a first go, am humbly impressed but feel that I could still achieve a better result with the right products & as the technique improves.
I have recently bought a DA6 copy (Extreme Challenger version from Argos at £57 & coming to grips with the feel of it). I will need to purchase a 70mm backing plate (has the same 5/16" (M8) setup as a DS6 pro). I like the write ups on the hex logic type pads. Watched your vid on Chinese pads but as this is my first go at this, think I need all the help I can get from quality pads & compounds/polishes. Would be grateful if you could guide me on what steps to follow & what pads & compounds/polishes you would recommend (poss Scholl, Menzerna etc.) as it may be different for plastics as opposed to steel/aluminium panel painting & paint correction techniques?
I'm in your hands...Cheers
Hi mate!! as always grade informative vid!, and you just set a formula for HB IPA PW... a quick question that dint mention on the video what if you wipe for second time the panel ? is that oils going to be removed?
Hi may be a daft question but is the die you put in to it any particular type or just run of the mill food colour
its a water based dye, came with the AG homebrew kit.. Joe from autoglanz would prolly hook you up with dyes and fragerences for water based products if you drop him a PM... in fact he may already sell them in the homebrew section of his site.. otherwise FJAS are a good bet.
Thanks I normally use autosmart preptone but I do fancy a go at home brew panel wipe and maybe even a pop at wax thanks lots
Jon, you have suggested F-JAS for fragrance additives. I am looking to try and give the Gtechniq detailed a some life. I like the product, but I do like a scented product when finished. I have sent an inquiry, but do you have any comments on do's or don'ts?
Hey John
In your opinion how does Angel Wax Stripped Ease compare with Bilt Hamber Cleanser fluid
Tried out Scholl s20 black today, works well but hard to buff off, will IPA and water do the trick or is SLES essential?
SLES helps mate... buff it all off first just with a cloth and really use the IPA after the panel looks clean to remove the traces left behind after a buff with no IPA if that makes sense.
Would this be effective before waxing my car? (to keep the surface clean after wash? and to strip any wax left)
Not really. This is for post polishing. Wax is one option for sealant. So most of the time it’s clay bar. Two stage polish. Wipe down like this. Then apply a durable sealant. Wax normally doesn’t last very long but dowse give good short tem finish. So I would polish a car say once / twice a year. As a very durable sealant and then maybe wax every now and again to protect it and give it a quick shine. This spray is to remove the polish residue really.
Interested in mixing up something like this to use, just to try it out. What are your thoughts on using a small amount of APC in place of SLES?
I've seen some videos recommend it, was just wondering if SLES was worth picking up, I can 250ml and it's pretty inexpensive. If I could just use APC with similar results though I'd rather just use that as I have loads of it around already.
My glass cleaner has all of those chemical but also has Butyl Cellosolve Solvent and fragance. So is it safe to use it instead of the IPA you made in this video ?
Could you use some Autosmart G101 or BH Surefex HD instead of the SLES, and if so at the same level ?
cheers Paul
Hey John I would like to ask you something. I think his name was Scot, the guy from Dallas paint correction said that IPA is not good for the clear cot. What is you opinion on that matter? Thanks for your video, very informative as usual.
hydrocarben solvents are more powerfull. If I took a hot sunny day with a baking hot test panel and used a pure solvent panel wipe product. if I put it on the panel in a line and leave it, that line could swell and go opaque (potentially). if I did the same thing with IPA I can never make the clear swell. when its knocked down with water and just the nature of IPA as a polar solvent it just cant seem to do any harm. ISO wipedowns are also used at a manufacturing level by all the main car brands, paint shops up and down the country who have a lot of experience with clearcoats. and just simply from using it I cant see any negative effects. I do buy that the IPA and water wipedown is not as effective as other products though, like I say the pure hydrocarben stuff is on a different level. with any products its about how you use them more than anything, base temp of the clear coat is very important, as is the quality of the clearcoat or type of clearcoat.
the main attack on IPA wipedowns has come from the detailing industry. It started as far as I can tell with brands that offered panel prep type products. problem is some of these products cost an arm and a leg. So there needs to be a powerfull reason to backup to people why you need to spend like lots of money on their degreaser products. I would suggest you try using the IPA mix in this video, you can also experiment with lowering the ISO level down and using some limonene. see if your clearcoat swells. If your really interested in all this stuff get a test panel you can mess around with. If you manage to swell clear with IPA and water let me know. you can argue perhaps its the continuall used of IPA that might be the concern, but again I cant see it. I might do an IPA wipe down on the car once a year I dont think that will stress the clearcoat anymore than covering it in a paste wax thats loaded with hydrocarbons and leaving the wax on the panel for 20 mins etc.. dunno lots of people I respect have a different opinion than me on this one. If the industry could provide me a nice water miscible wipe down solvent, that was nicer to work with and I could get for a reasonable price I would be in. they do have those products but the price is insane and like they sell them in tiny bottles you blast your way though instantly.
Forensic Detailing Channel Thanks for thorough answer John, I’ll use IPA and will pay attention if it does any harm to clear coat, and if i see something make sure you’ll be the first one to find out 😉
Can you use a degreaser like purple power for the sles or a department store product?
Thanks for the great video- Any problem using 70% IPA as opposed to 99% + DI water? Does the 70% IPA in stores contain DI water or generally not?
pbakai182 no problem using weaker IPA but you have to do the math and probably add more IPA to water.
It's ideal to start with highest purity possible of each chemical. You guarantee that you know what you're mixing and it makes the math easier. However, the 70% prediluted IPA is probably not contaminated with any minerals so I wouldn't worry about it if that's all you've got.
Short answer: it's most likely fine.
Great video very informative I d like to ask though if instead of IPA I could use ethyl alcohol, as in my country IPA is not easily accessible or expensive. I now both are in general rubbing alcohol but most of the detailing info specifically refer to IPA, is there any ingredient in ethyl alcohol that makes it unsuitable for this purpose?
Thank you in advance!
Ethanol isn't comprable to IPA for grease removal
Would you recommend to use IPA wipe after a hand polish (using Adams hand polish)? Or is it only required after a machine polish? Thanks mate!
Both.
This video just came up in my recommendations; excellent and insightful video. Interesting choice of SLES as a surfactant; not one I've used but it is certainly inexpensive and effective. I have both Tergitol NP-9 and Triton X-100 in stock in my house, so if/when I mix mine up I'll grab one of those and may tinker with the percentage. I've also thought about adding a small amount of butyl cellosolve to it to help remove real tough stuff such as Jescar (Menzerna) Power Lock Plus.
I have only just discovered your channel, great videos and information on many different aspects of detailing. Thanks 👍
Welcome, thanks for the kind words really appreciate it and great to know you dig the videos.
Brilliant Jon. Handy for me as Bonnymans is 15 minutes away from me :-)
Are they still open for business ? All the links from the video are dead, unless they are in self isolation. Video was made 2 years ago.
Thanks again for another informative video. I've been meaning to ask you two questions about this formula..
1) Can we substitute 20 ml of APC if we can't find SLES?
2) WHAT type of dye did you use?
Thanks again for all the work you do in making these very informative videos!
Cheers from Kelly in Canada 🇨🇦
you could put some APC in there but hmm not sure whats in all the different APC's and SLES is so cheap Id get some of that. (you can use it as APC as well for interiors)
I just used a water based dye from the autoglanz homebrew kit. I think joe sells them seperately on the autoglanz site, Im sure he will hook you up with some dye if you message them.
**doh you in canada, dont worry about the dye honestly its not that important, just a bit of bling**
Forensic Detailing Channel thanks again. I'll have to keep looking for a source for the SLES. Thanks again!! 🇨🇦
Love your videos
Is this solution suitable for cleaning ceramic coating
Yo Chris its not really a suitable cleaner as such.. but you could use it to degrease a car with a coating on.. to them perhaps top that coating up for example.
Great vid as usual Jon. Would it be no harm to add a drop of acetic acid if using a silicone based polish?
gut instinct says no John.. Vinegar's cleaning properties come from its acidic nature.. So its a good mild descalar etc. whereas with polish removal you are looking for solvents that are effective at disolving oil and carrying it away... that are also not going to damage your clearcoat.
Interesting video! but isnt it a 2:1 instead of 3:1?? Also its pretty strong, Brian from Apex said not to use more then 12% of IPA, and your using a 50/50 Mix really so its like 50% IPA and 50% water.
Never had any paint issues?
My maths use to be bad too. Let me dumb it down for you and anyone that is confused. 50/50 mix of 50% solution would be 100% solution to 100% water. To calculate volume percentage add the liquids together (670+300+30=1000). Divide the solution (300ml) by total volume (1000) = 0.3. Multiply the answer by 100 which gives you 30%. Hope this helps.
*More Helpful Information* If you use 70% alcohol, first work out 70% of the volume of solution (300×70%=210) then divide that by total solution (1000) × 100 which will result in 21% mix.
Cool! Carpro eraser takes a while to ship out to me in California. I needed something today! Appreciate your tutorial.
So much better than the bullshit from most detailing videos. Always get the idea that most of them are sponsored by the product they seem to use when they slag off IPA. This seems to make sense...
theres a lot of BS about IPA out there. The reason being you can mix up lots and lots of products for hardly any money. so in order to convince you to spend like £10+ for a tiny bottle of spray there needs to be a good dose of BS or anti IPA sentiment. Put it this way. Koch Chemie who have been making OEM automotive abrasives for more than 60 years, sell and recomend an IPA based wipe down product for their abrasives. And this is used by car manaufacturers. Its only mis-use of IPA that will swell clearcoat.
Just a question , can one use prepsol Trying to remove the wax instead ? , a friend of my owns a panel beating shop and he prepsols the panels before painting to get it clean? Would it work with polishing too?
check the MSDS for it and look what its using.. It will most likely be a more potent cocktail of solvents that are more effective at degreasing a panel.. sometimes these products are intended as prep products for respray/bodyshop works.. they work for sure but check whats in them before deciding if its suitable for polish removal... I still think personally you are better off using a high water and low IPA blend just because its very cost effective, and then a spritz of something you trust like carpro eraser or BH cleanser etc...
I use this mix as my go to window cleaner ,for the same reason we use it as a panel wipe
Previous comment by me made little sense - went to your link and they wanted £8 for delivery - on amazon I got 5 litres delivered for less than £6 - as a starter with a few drops of Fairy I think you can beat £3/litre - Bilt Hamber is a great scrubber for old wax/coatings
TIP: I had some Adams coloured snow foam lying around (I tried it, didn't like it for foaming the car) . Instead of adding SLES and dye, just add a cap full of coloured snow foam and you'll get the same effect but with a nice added scent.
I know im very late to this conversation but would you say this degreaser/panel wipe would be the same as bodyshop panel wipe? Im a painter/panel beater and we use sikkens m700 degreaser in 5l containers and it doesnt leave anything behind be it before painting or inbetween denib/polishing but i guess that would be quite expensive for a home detailer.
so sikkens is probably a pure hydrocarbon a bit like tetrysl pre wipe degreaser. Its slow flash time slow evaporation rate and needs higher temp to flash. you need to let the hydrocarbons vape off the panel for longer, and you need that work ship environment to maintain temp. when you use a hydrocarbon at home like for me now in the winter it actually does not vape of the car well below 10 deg so I run risk of putting a protective product on top of a thin layer of mineral spirit... they kick out stronger vapours as well. I think IPA is better and cheap for simple inspection wipe downs. (with some detegent to emulsfiiy)
Hi mate, what's your take on panel sprays like Carpro Eraser? Should i just use an IPA for cutting stages then a specialised panel spray just before the final stage polish, or immediately after the final polish and before your sealant/wax/ceramic?
I like eraser and prep.. They are water based panel wipes which I believe are mainly backboned with alcohol solvent. The problem with them is purly price. they are about 50 pounds for 5 litres ready mixed.. And really about 70% of these products is water. When you buy 5 litres of IPA for 15 quid. You can make 20 litres of panel wipe. I also find the IPA homebrew just as effective. So its up to you really if the price thing is not important just buy prep or eraser.
@@ForensicDetailing Is there other surfactant products you could recommend? I'm in australia and can't find anywhere that sells SLES. Alot of what I can find is surfactants used for application of herbicide/pesticide/fertiliser. Would dishwashing liquid work as an alternative?
@@uberlymick hey there you can just use an APC concentrate for sure.
@@ForensicDetailing Thanks mate!
@forensicdetailingchannel
hey Jon in this video you use
670ml deionised water
300ml 99% ipa
20-25ml sles
Tiny drop of dye
Can I use bilt hamber surfex HD APC instead of sles if yes how much ml of liquid would you recommend...? Would it be same amount as sles 20-25ml...?
Thank you in advance
yes mate surfex 1-2%
@@ForensicDetailing thanks for the heads up , sorry one more question the dye you used is it normal food dye ?
Can this be used as a water based panel prep before spraying paint
No strong enough for that use hydrocarbon based prep
Thanks for the great video! I would love to see a video with some information about tape, and the differences between cheap painter tape, and the more expensive ones. A lot of detailer's seem to use green or blue tape, interested in the reason why.
its generally just for low tack.. as far as I know the top surface of "detailers tape" is the same material as any masking tape... I think the green stuff might be the frog tape that builders use over the top of paint because its very low tack.. not sure..
Hi Jon@ Forensic Detailing
What kind of coloring is recommended to add (what is the make-up of it and what is safe?)
Does the coloring have a scent? Or could you add a scent to it?
Thanks Jon (sorry I misspelled your name before)
hey JW you can just skip the dye, its really only if you have an opaque bottle so you can see it. but Im using a water based dye from the autoglanz homebrew kit
Yes I just saw a post down the page where you stated your comment. When I watched this a while back, your response was not posted at that time. Thank you Jon for all your input and fun videos.
Jared
Hey Jon. Using IPA for initial wipedown, but ill come back with a second panel wipe solution like Gyeon Prep or Gtechniq's Panel Wipe before laying a coating. If its just a sealant I find IPA is fine.
yer thats kind of the way Im recomending you do it.. I think the IPA mix its suitable enough for your wipe downs during the sets where you need to inspect but dont need to get it all off and you know your gonna be going again on the same spot.. And when done use the premium products if you want for the final wipedown before sealants...
otherwise you will add 10-15 quid chemical cost per car..
He says that on the video
Thanks - that is great info ! I had just emailed Menzerna re their residue removal product "Control Cleaner" & then came across your video. I'm off to the shop to mix up a batch using your formula - I restore classic auto woodwork - right now polishing a 1962 RRT Silver Cloud 2 interior set. Best regards - Frank Burns USA
brilliant francis.. classic car restoration fantastic thing to do.. be sure to send me pictures of the stuff you do at rover8200@hotmail.com
Boss I need to know that how can I make car buffing compound.plz help me
Great Lesson. Please I have important questions:
1.Can we use a 5% laundry detergent non sent type as an alternative to SLES?. Because we don't have this in our country.
2. For coating with nano ceramic some Panel wipe stated it is using 45% isopropyl do you think it is necessary?
3. Do you think this is good for cleaning paint layer between spray paint steps just like grace and tac cleaner?
4. Can I use this for removing petroleum solvent solutions such as benzene and Kerosene mixes that is used to clean tar and over spray paint?
hey feras..
1) I wouldnt mate god knows whats in it.. perhaps use an APC.
2) 45% sounds a bit high. I personally wont use just an ISO homebrew to prep for a ceramic. I believe like I said in this video theres more effective degreasers using different chemical formats. but 20-30% max seems to be the concensus.
3) no I dont think its good for that. most of the bodyshop degreasers are hydrocarbon based. could be wrong its going beyond my limited knowledge that one and I would be theres bodyshops using ISO that way.
4) you should not have to use ISO to remove kereson or benezene tar and glue removers. Its a bit like using a soap to wash away a prefer soap. actually its not but basically no mate.
Forensic Detailing Channel thanks a lot u have been generous in the answers.
thanks feras appreciate it mate.
Is there an advantage with using isopropanol rather than isopropyl?
Just did a comparison of the total product COST D2D (product+vat+shipping) of a litre of Bilt Hamber cleaning fluid (£35.85) (D2D) whereas the FD 'Home Brew' is £6.33 per Ltr (D2D) a saving of £29.53 per Ltr. That a clean 82.4% saving over using an off the counter ready made product.
Good work Jon & I'll be trying it for that amount of savings.
(p.s. savings are based on buying 1 Ltr bottles of IPA & SLES, plus 5 Lts of deionised water)
Hi Jon, can i use battery top up water instead of deionised?
Yes m8
Hi, love the Chanel, what would you use to remove autoglym lifeshine..?
hey terry personally Id use a light finishing polish like s40 or menz sf4500. and then degrease afterwards and apply fresh protection of choice
Jon, What dyes do you recommend to use when making wax, QD and other products?
you can buy the candel wax dyes on ebay but I dont like them so much.. for wax your better off using solvent based dye liquids or powders... for QD your better off using a water based dye. Have a word with Joe from autoglanz he can hook you up. that pink dye I use is from his homebrew QD kit.
brilliant thanks Jon, i have joe on my frinds list so will give him a shout about dyes
Hi john just been reading this stuff damaged the clear coat and you shouldn’t use it at all. Looking to use it next week to machine polish my bonnet and get it looking nice Again, what’s your opinion on this? Thanks
Hi Jon.
I have been told that you can use window cleaner as panel wipe. Is that true? It was said to me in person by a guy that works for a very big detailng company. I was wondering if that can actually be true. If so, window cleaner is much cheaper that dedicated panel wipe or IPA. But then there is also the home made one like you are showing here in this video. Now, I am not sure if where I live I can find these ingredients. I really have to search hard for that. I am orgnanizing myself to start my valeting/detailing business.
Best regards mate,
Alexis
Wow. Amazing information in this. Keep up with the quality videos!
What about upol slow is this product not good enough ? says it removes oils etc an 20 quid for 5 ltrs ???
Yer but it's a workshop style product.
Hi mate what is the strength of the SLES u r using ? I only can find the gel type of sles..
see description buddy
So for someone on a budget small budget would ipa and water get most of the oil off and then wash with plane dish soap and and water then ipa again be ok for coating with a ceramic coating be ok ?
on the final wipedown before ceramic you should look to use a proper panel wipe product. perhaps a product from the guys that supply the coating. I favour bilt hamber cleaner fluid though. you could also check out gtechniq panel wipe..
so ipa for 99% of the wipedowns.. proper product for the final wipedown adam
What about using clay ? Should i use it? If i should, should it be before or after ipa wipedown?
Do you recommend using clay bar at all?
I live in a country where this stuff is imported so its really hard to even find a clay bar, let alone finding it at a reasonable price thats why this info is really important for me.
Thanks in advance
hey there we have done lots of videos on clay I cant really go through it all 1to1 typing it would require a long essay.
@@ForensicDetailing after the comment i went through all your clay bar videos, the thing is i dont really know if i should invest on it or just do an ipa wipedown and apply carnauba on top.
Another question, i have bought koch chemie s0.01 finishing wax but i am not sure if i should apply it on carnauba wax right after the application of carnauba or should i let carnauba stay on the paint a few hours for the wax to bond with the paint ( or maybe a few days) and apply koch chemie s0.01 finishing wax after it hardens.
Koch chemie doesn't state on the label
@@doraduman clay bar is basically 100% essential. you cannot be without it. And you cannot replace it with IPA. You need to watch the videos... If you have rough paint covered in bonded contamination the paintwork will feel dull, look dull, and its pointless IPA's and waxing it. You will just be sticking material on top of debris or contamination. Invest in clay bar Pudin.
If in doubt use one product and follow manufacturer instructions. Sealants need to go on clean prep'd surface to bond properly... Wax's generally benefit from clean prep'd surface but you can just stick them ontop of stuff... hope this helps sorry I have to do most communicating through videos now.
When doing a 2 stage buffing/polishing do you wipe down every panel prior to the final sealant?
yes mate so when doing with all the polishing, get a good panel wipe product you trust.. I use bilt hamber cleasner.. and clean down all the panels with the product so its a bare panel with no product.. this will help most forms of sealant to bond.
Forensic Detailing Channel thank you again for your fast reply! I am doing my F150 truck today and maybe tomorrow too, getting ready for winter up here in Nebraska USA where it snows several feet, not inches 😁
Hi! Would an APC work in place of an IPA solution? For example, Meguiars APC. They tend to be cheaper as well (not as cheap as the home-brewed version, of course).
yes I think.. problem is theres a lot of different types of APC.. but for this yes just 20ml of APC would prolly do the trick..
Thanks!
Vincent Ong you Can NOT swicth the IPA for apc, but sles for apc
Bobby Finnrose Yes, I use some APC in stead of the mentioned SLES. Because APC is working about the same and most of us already use it for general cleaning purposes on cars already.
Thanks again Jon , I've just ordered the items.
What kind of Color dye do use?
I always thought a 10% mix of IPA (99%) to distilled water was the typical strength. Your suggesting a lot stronger Jon... where do you get your ratio from out of curiosity?
Yo B. 10% might be fine for lots of water based products (or abrasives that contain a higher relative amount of water to oil).. I do pretty much all my machining with scholl or menz which are a lot more oily.. So I run right at the upper eschalons of the ratio.. I just find it works better than low ratio mixes.. but I tend to never go lower than 20% IPA just from what I find works best for me...
Forensic Detailing Channel Scholls S20 for me these days so guess I need to up my IPA mix %.
Great info! Thanks for that. (Still waiting for the all-music video.)
How long does a bottle keep for?? Also what can i use instead of sles if I not got any... surfed hd??
ages tazz.... months and months and month.. prolly a year. not sure :) doh you will use it before it runs out though.. if not just tip and make some more.
@@ForensicDetailing thanks for the reply mate will be making some tomorrow!
Hey Great video, what type of dyes do you use?
it came with the autoglanz homebrew detail spray kit its a red water based dye
Great job.Educational and informative.
Can the hand sanitizer ethanol be used mate ???
Can be included
@@ForensicDetailing ?
is it okay to use ethylalcohol aswel? if I look it up chemically the only difference seems to be that ethylalcohol is drinkable while IPA isn´t.
I really dont know mate. everyone tends to use IPA
Can we use Mineral turpentine oil / White spirit in place of Isopropnal Alcohol..??
you can use a hydrocarbon based panel wipe yes. but these are typically slower to flash versus IPA. So much so in winter for example if you use a mineral spirit your panel wipe may not flash at all if you are outside or in a cold garage. they require qorkship environments. the strength of IPA is it will always flash and flash fast. Dont use DIY type mineral spirits use hydrocarbon panel wipes from detailing brands UPOL tetrysl etc etc.
Just made this home brew panel wipe and realised I bought SLES free soap base instead of SLES itself. Will this still be a problem?
no mate it will be ok the soap will still help to emulsify.
@@ForensicDetailing Great, thanks for getting back to me! Appreciate it 😎
How much ml of IPA,Water and surface detergent used please mention a dilution formula
Hi can you compare vet dray vacuums for detailing
Would it be ok to use Surfex as the surfactant?
yes m8
I wonder whether some ammonia free household glass cleaners would also make good panel wipes?
No, it's not a strong enough solvent to act as a panel wipe.
What is Sles? Is it a acolide degreeser type substance?
Surfactant m8
Hey Jon the links have expired in the description. Has ipa always been fairly expensive or has the prices been inflated due to covid-19? eBay 1L off 99% ipa is around £29.
Just found 5l for about £30
Dave Nicholls where from ?
Dave Nicholls just purchased this, says UK but PayPal has gone to a Chinese account. See if it turns up
Can I use Adam's Eco APC as a surfactant?
Good video mate. Well explained.
I've tried mixing up something of this nature. It seems to work well, but it remains extremely grabby once you've wiped most of it off. This in contrast to commercial offerings such as CarPro Eraser and Gyeon Q2M Prep that seem to have a slickness to it during the wipe-off process all the way til it's fully evaporated. Just an observation; wondering what secret ingredient they put in and what difference it makes.
maybe lower the IPA and up the detergent.. prolly best to just wipe away with no ipa first as well.. get most of it off the panel and then a little spritz..
I can wipe polishes off with Cleanser fluid with 100ml. It is so effective.
NIce one. Just an alternative to SLES you can use a couple drops of dishwashing liquid (i.e Fairy)!!! Keep up the good work
You say a couple of drops of dish wash liquid. what do mean by that? Sorry to sound pedantic but his recipe stated 25 MLS which a whole lot more than a couple of drops that you are suggesting. Could you please a little more accurate?
@@jhndijkman I've made up this ipa mixture but instead of SLES, used a mild liquid APC (Mr muscle) and used 12.5ml in a 1 litre mixture. For dish soap I would try 2.5ml as it's thick and concsntrated. It's trial and error, so maybe just make up a 250ml mixture and see how it goes.
Jon, if I watched this video once, I’ve watched it ten times or more.
I am finally going to ask why. You never stipulate perentages.
What is the concentration of IPA you intended to make?
Your mix is 30% IPA. Is that what you use and prefer, is so, why?
I have read its not good to go over 20% although i have made it higher.
Really would like to know your comments please.
I use about 28% IPA I think. mainly because the scholl concepts stuff is a bit thicker. generally Ill wipe down the panel wipeout anything. then if I want to inspect squizz some of this on the panel and buff it out gently. i think optimum said something about a rough upper limit of around 25%. to be honest I dont think and extra 4% will do much. with solvents its more about not letting them dry on the panel. IPA's mixed down with water like this are less harsh than a lot of things potentially. the biggest downside is not risk with this.. its just like people say I dont think IPA is the most effective chemical for this. but thats just based on perhaps casual observations. Ive got no plans though to switch over to expensive panel wipes for quick inspection wipedowns. gotta be cheap and fit for purpose, untill we get to the final prep product and then I want something abit more effective.
Forensic Detailing Channel Concur on that Jon. Thanks👍
What IPA mix would you use to remove wax in using 20%
I dont really use this to remove wax I just use it for polish residue buffing really.. Ill use lime prime or a wizz over with polish or a stronger product.
It's hard to tell if lime prime removes the wax leaves its own beading and I use it by hand don't have a machine
I use motip 600 degreaser. Very cheap, costs under 5£ for 500ml and does a better job than any IPA solution.