Appreciate all the comments, all advice will be taken on board for future videos. In the mean time if you want to see our full range of wood burning stoves you can find them here: www.fireplaceproducts.co.uk/wood-burning-stoves/
But you haven't explained what air settings to use for what situation. I know the bottom vent let's air in underneath the fire and the top vent let's air in at the top. But why and for what reason? Wet logs big logs different wood different fuel? This is just an advert for your fires :(
An explanation of how to set up primary and secondary air controls and why you would set up in a particular way would be good. I'm new to log burners and trying to learn what is the best way to do it, good video still though 👍
Great vid! Seems you have some serious movie 'direction' critics out there which seems a tad 'harsh' considering that you are not advertising as a movie producer :) I found the video very useful - thanks!
Does outside air intake make a difference? If so confused about where to install it.. primary air intake? (Bottom of the stove) or secondary on the top.
so, once you have a great fire going and everything is all hot. what is the most efficient and clean way to adjust the fire. should we use the lower or upper vents? why one over the other?
I've just got a stove and trying to learn as well. But I think if you are burning coal your best to close the top one and keep the bottom one open because coal works best with air from beneath. And if your burning logs then it's the exact opposite. As far as I'm away you shouldn't burn both together as they prefer to burn differently.
The idea is to get a stove up to temp then only add just enough fuel/air to mantain the temp. Its like a cat, uses more fuel to get moving than it does to keep a steady speed.
I’m guessing you want as much secondary air to create a clean burn but not burn the solid fuel. The secondary air makes the stove efficient and clean. The primary air regulates the solid fuel or primary burn. If my stove doesn’t have a secondary burn I tend to turn up the air supply unless I’m letting the coals burn out. An older fire doesn’t need as much secondary burn as the wood is dried out and creosote release is low.
The logic is that solid fuels like Turf and Coal should be burnt from the bottom. Wood should be burnt from the top. So if burning wood, once you have the fire up to temp then close down the bottom and throttle the top as you see fit. This will give you the most efficent burn which can be shown by the lack of ash the next day.
Very new to owning a wood burner, been struggling to get a fire and keeping it going! We have an insert barbas but just been watching your videos and trying out a few of your techniques and doing much better. Thanks x
Glad we could be of some help Muddy Duckies, Barbas inserts are great stoves. Many of the the Unilux, Universal and Cuatro models have a drop down plate when you open the door, to try and prevent spillage. These can often be adjusted if you are having an issue with the draw on the chimney, so if your still having problems take a look at your manual and it should be able to help.
Mine wasn't fitted properly and was wedged shut! I've fixed it now and all sorted! Looking forward to colder evenings this week to have another fire!!!
Get a Good pipe thermometer and keep with in burn limits To Low ~ Deadly creosote build up Find the stoves happy medium and go with it . To Hot ~ Over burn
Hi there. Wondering if you could give me some advice. I have a 14x28 hunt camp. New and very well insulated. My wood stove which has been installed to code seems to smoke every time I open the door to put wood. It also smokes when you open the door of the camp. It seems to pull smoke out of the stove when you open the camp door. So I’m thinking I need a fresh air vent but don’t know how to do this. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Hey thanks for reaching out. Sounds like you have two issues, the first is that when you open the door to the camp it pulls smoke out of the stove and into the room, a vent can certainly help with this, but location is key, you need to place it as close to the stove as you can. The fact that you are getting smoke when you open the door to stove, is usually wither a fuel, or a flue problem. If the fuel you are burning has a higher moisture content, that can create more smoke which can lead to this. Secondly the flue diameter, length and insulation all can play a factor in the flue pipe temperature and the exchange of the flue gases. In effect you have a lazy draw on the flue meaning that the gases are not being pulled up at the correct speed. There can be alot of factors that can influence a lazy draw including downdraft coming down the flue pipe, trees in the vicinity of the terminal not allowing the gasses to dissipate as intended. Changing to an anti-downdraft cowl, or a rotating updraught cowl might help with increasing the draw in the chimney. I would suggest this would be the first thing to try, before placing an air vent in your new and well insulated hunt camp. Hope it helps. Thanks Reece - Fireplace Products
It would be if as in this video you open and close both the top and bottom air intakes at the same time .... nothing revolutionary about this basic air input science, posh or cheap stove .... I'm happy to be corrected here
Great video very informative! Wish you would have filmed before or after the operating hours of the business as it was quite difficult to fully hear every due to the massive amounts of back ground noise. Just a pro tip for future videos! Regardless well done and thank you for sharing!
So apart from the lower primary vent and the secondary upper vent the stove should be a closed system. So why does my cast iron stove have a long 1cm wide long slit ( along the stove front) under the top. I can stick my finger in and run it from left to right.
Fireplace Products Hi. I have a 1410 morso squirrel and have just had to replace the baffle plate. I don't want to burn through it again if I can help it, and was looking for a little information on HOW to best use the two air vents in future. I live on a boat, and it has been out of commission for two weeks, and my husband will be thrilled that it's now back in working order. it's been nasty getting up in the freezing cold this last couple weeks. Thanks
Hi Anita, thank you for your comment - we'll get to work on a video that will hopefully shed some light on the subject! We'll let you know when it is uploaded.
Have a Henley Sherwood stove both primary and secondary controlls are at he the bottom what's the best way to keep glass clean with the air wash system
Regarding the newer logburners/stoves that have the autopilot feature, with nothing to slide open and closed, when you want to add more logs do you just open the door and add them once its died down abit? im looking at the wiking mini 2 and i believe this has the autopilot feature.
Nice stoves but i came here to find out everything i needed to know about air supplies, instead i just learned that top end stoves have a more accurate air supply than low end stoves. A bit more afformative on how air supply works, and how to make burning wood or coals more efficient.
joel cockerill thanks for the comments, we are always looking for suggestions for new videos. Leace it with us and we will come back to you when we have something for you.
Hi mangreat71, its a good question, we have a blog post that covers this which you can see here: www.fireplaceproducts.co.uk/blog/what-wood-should-you-burn/ but to answer your question directly, never burn wood that has been freshly cut from a tree you need to season it first. Pallet wood is tricky as it can depend on if it has been treated. If they are untreated then they will burn quickly as they are softwoods, and try to avoid using pieces that have nails it, as the metal heats up and can super heat the internal components. I hope that helps.
It helps a lot.and very soon i should be getting my own tools like Saw Cutters and Ratchet sets and screw drivers.And would a Saw Cutter be good for cutting the wooden pallets for the Wood Burner so i can avoid putting the nails in the Wood Burner ?
Hi Jaber, thanks for the message, we are based in Rayleigh, Essex, UK. Sound was a little issue due to filming it during the day with people in the showroom, but hopefully the message still comes through and we help explain the differences between the air controls on these different models.
+Fireplace Products The noise didn't bother me at all, I came for the information. Who cares if their are people around. I don't get the issue. Great info, great video. Thank you!
Thanks for this. Some feedback on this video and a suggestion for another one . . . The background noise in your showroom is distracting and could be overcome by shooting the video at the end of the day when you're closed. Just a thought! I watched this video after doing a TH-cam search for: "How to prevent the glass on my wood burning stove from blacking out?" I have a contemporary 'portrait' style stove (similar to the Wiking Luma Plinth that you stock), and I find the glass turns black with every fire. Cleaning it each time is a real ball ache - so I'm trying to discover what's causing it and to stop it from happening. I'm only burning kiln dried logs - so that's not the problem, but I may be being a tad over zealous in damping the fire down to stop the stove from overheating and to minimise log consumption. Anyway, if you fancy making a video on keeping the glass clean - that would be very useful! ;-)
Good video. I paid £1000 for a Merlin standard stove and although it keeps me warm it has the worst controls of aiflow I have ever seen in a stove. I have never ever seen a picture of lovely flames from the merlin whoose glass blackens as soon as it is turned down. And I've listened to all the crap "Oh you must be burning green wood" ...."Oh you must have the controls set wrong" Merlin stoves are nothing when it comes to flame picture and airwash unlike some of the beauties on this video
I had a fireplace for 8 r 9 years and I noticed dat fuel burned too quickly and had no way of controlling the flames 🔥 wen up da chimney so now wit a stove I can turn dem flames dwn and keep in da fire longer and heat longer too so il be saving a lot this year
Yeah, when I close my vents the same happens to me, the logs smolder red with no flames, so just open your vents more. If you do that and you still have the issue, then you may not have good air flow.
Great stuff thankyou. I am quite new to solid fuel burning, and unsure about a few things thats why i was surfing. Air supply for overnight burning, with wood or smokeless coals top or bottom air supply regulated or both? I am burning both at them moment. Can wood be burnt with smokeless coals? I seem to burn through more coals when i add wood/logs to the mix. Do i need any bottom draught when burning coals as im sure ive read i dont but i am not 100% sure but i do tend to all but shut off the bottom air supply. If you make a vid about any of that please tag me in it. Thanks for the reply :)
joel cockerill sure will do, take a look at this blog post we did a little while ago, it might help tied you over till we get a video up: www.fireplaceproducts.co.uk/blog/stove-air-vents/ We also have a woodburner community page on Facebook, where you can ask any questions to other stove users who might be able to help: facebook.com/groups/1097610796984563/
would using a hot exhaust extractor fan for a wood burning stove connected to ducting work running out of a garage door to avoid drilling holes for temporary setup area use be safe to use and eliminate risk of carbon monoide posioning if using a wind back flow preventer on the ducting if you also sucked outside air back into the room from a seperate duct fan intake
Hi Mike, I think local regulations may be a factor, but in principal, using a chimney fan on the end of a flue system to help with the draw is often allowed, typically chimney fans are matched with outputs of stoves and length of the flue before the fan, so make sure you let your provider know that. Having an external air feed from outside going directly into your stove (assuming you stove supports that) is a good idea and can (in some locations, local regulations will apply) negate the need for an air brick. As for your exact situation without seeing it its difficult to comment, providing you use suitable flue components and adhere to safe distances to combustibles but i would defiantly consult with a local heating professional who will be able to give you on ground advice looking at your specific situation.Thanks Reece
Thank you for your explanation of the current UK models. However, for future clips, please get rid of the background chatter as this made it very difficult to hear what you had to say.
Der is a air control at the very bottom of my bilberry stove 5kw and der is a wheel on da door and at top another air open and shut so is da very bottom one just for if u burn coal do yea know
The wheel on the door will be the primary air. If there is a lever under the stove this most likely will be a tertiary air supply that comes in via little holes in the back of the firebox. The top one will be the secondary. Depending upon if your Bilberry 5 has an option to flatten the grate when you are burning wood only (as some products do) which diverts the air from under to over the grate as to how much control this wheel will give you. In all cases you will still need the primary air to start the fire, but if you are only burning wood and the grate doesn't flatten, you will find that once the fire is established you should be able to almost close this vent down and use the secondary and tertiary. Remember to light keep them all open and start closing them down accordingly as you go. The manual should also be able to help you in when to close which supply to down to get the best possible burn.
Please add a duct or pipe to bring outdoor air directly into your burn chamber, otherwise it will deplete the oxygen in your home. This is especially important with modern homes being practically air-tight vs. older homes being leaky, perhaps.
This fire pit is one of a few covered pits that is on the list th-cam.com/users/postUgkxAU9pOCSV9Y5JprooHvfxTpOrt4hx8uRM of approved products for Disney Fort Wilderness. The product served its purpose well and provided excellent fires throughout the evening. We were able to open the door and do s'mores, but I had to be careful because the handle was a bit hot on occasions. Additionally, I wish they had replaced some of the standard nuts with lock nuts in some places. We lost the door handle after just a couple of days of usage. Not a deal breaker, just a recommendation. I still give it 5 stars.
Even a cheap stove will react instantly to having its air controls adjusted, your just reducing the amount of air to the fire so any stove that has its air supply reduced will slow down instantly
Hi William, typically it depends how air tight the stove is, we have known cheaper stoves to have considerably less control than those featured. Granted all new stoves that are being released (including cheaper models) are getting much more controllable than equivalent older models as the market is so competitive now all manufactures are working to achieve higher standards and conform with the latest regulation changes. Valid point though, so thank you
No chance 😂 I bought an Arundel 500 quid stove. It’s great but it certainly doesn’t react to changes on air flow like these burners!! Nowhere bloody near. Also it make a pretty annoying whistle when air is rushing into it.... all of the time. Love to hear if anybody knows why 🤔
You probably need to check your seals. I have a cheaper stove and it was burning up too fast so I tore it down and used fire cement in the primary and secondary ait vents, sealing them completely and just kept the air wash/tertiary. Did the job. Suggest use your ears, you can usually hear where air is being sucked in...
@@cgavin1 will remember this advice but mines a brand new fire but its at the lower price bracket so its probably working fine, I'm just sad that mine doesn't change like these fancy expensive ones! 😂
@@leer774 It will probably be the same issue mine had: too much air. Also the newer stoves have to comply with defra so they have a fixed minimum air flow that is usually too high. Once I'd sealed mine up it ran fine. The other issue a few run in to is where the stove is hooked up to a larger diameter chimney liner and it draws too hard. Baffles are a popular solution to that problem. I've just sealed up the air vents. 👍
More 'expensive' stoves give better and more immediate flame control??? Good sales pitch for the dealers bank balance, but totally untrue I'm afraid - Air flow control is air flow control, nothing cheap or expensive about that basic air slider control feature? I suspect some salesman bs here ?? I'm happy to be corrected here
i was going to come down and buy fifteen stoves but all the noise in the background have ruined the pitch.......therefore for that reason i wont be investing and im OUT!
What type of a reason not to buy you fifteen stoves is that? I'd imagine they're more than pleased not to have to do business with you. The grief wouldn't end once the deal was done.
Making a video with customers in the store is really unprofessional, as it shows the lack of effort put in. Stay at work 8 minutes after closing and you'll have a much better video...
Hi Dennis, thanks for the comments, we agree and have slated to reshoot the video soon and will do so once the showroom is closed. Thanks for the feedback
Cannot understand anything that you are writing, you has very strong lack of punctuation, capitalization, and grammar. He's British, exploration and experience in other countries and culture is also available.
Appreciate all the comments, all advice will be taken on board for future videos. In the mean time if you want to see our full range of wood burning stoves you can find them here: www.fireplaceproducts.co.uk/wood-burning-stoves/
Bloke knows his stuff. I’d be in awe seeing all of those stoves.
But you haven't explained what air settings to use for what situation. I know the bottom vent let's air in underneath the fire and the top vent let's air in at the top. But why and for what reason? Wet logs big logs different wood different fuel? This is just an advert for your fires :(
An explanation of how to set up primary and secondary air controls and why you would set up in a particular way would be good.
I'm new to log burners and trying to learn what is the best way to do it, good video still though 👍
Great vid! Seems you have some serious movie 'direction' critics out there which seems a tad 'harsh' considering that you are not advertising as a movie producer :) I found the video very useful - thanks!
Top vent is called air wash and it's to keep glass clean and in a multi fuel cast iron it's for burning wood the bottom one is for using coal
Does outside air intake make a difference? If so confused about where to install it.. primary air intake? (Bottom of the stove) or secondary on the top.
Brilliant video thanks!
You can see why these are the more expensive ones because they work amazingly,
I love your style of stoves you have in the U.K.
so, once you have a great fire going and everything is all hot. what is the most efficient and clean way to adjust the fire. should we use the lower or upper vents? why one over the other?
I've just got a stove and trying to learn as well. But I think if you are burning coal your best to close the top one and keep the bottom one open because coal works best with air from beneath. And if your burning logs then it's the exact opposite. As far as I'm away you shouldn't burn both together as they prefer to burn differently.
The idea is to get a stove up to temp then only add just enough fuel/air to mantain the temp. Its like a cat, uses more fuel to get moving than it does to keep a steady speed.
I’m guessing you want as much secondary air to create a clean burn but not burn the solid fuel. The secondary air makes the stove efficient and clean. The primary air regulates the solid fuel or primary burn. If my stove doesn’t have a secondary burn I tend to turn up the air supply unless I’m letting the coals burn out. An older fire doesn’t need as much secondary burn as the wood is dried out and creosote release is low.
The logic is that solid fuels like Turf and Coal should be burnt from the bottom. Wood should be burnt from the top. So if burning wood, once you have the fire up to temp then close down the bottom and throttle the top as you see fit. This will give you the most efficent burn which can be shown by the lack of ash the next day.
Thank you.
You are a very knowledgeable and nice young man.
Very new to owning a wood burner, been struggling to get a fire and keeping it going! We have an insert barbas but just been watching your videos and trying out a few of your techniques and doing much better. Thanks x
Glad we could be of some help Muddy Duckies, Barbas inserts are great stoves. Many of the the Unilux, Universal and Cuatro models have a drop down plate when you open the door, to try and prevent spillage. These can often be adjusted if you are having an issue with the draw on the chimney, so if your still having problems take a look at your manual and it should be able to help.
Mine wasn't fitted properly and was wedged shut! I've fixed it now and all sorted! Looking forward to colder evenings this week to have another fire!!!
Get a Good pipe thermometer and keep with in burn limits To Low ~ Deadly creosote build up Find the stoves happy medium and go with it . To Hot ~ Over burn
Hi there. Wondering if you could give me some advice. I have a 14x28 hunt camp. New and very well insulated. My wood stove which has been installed to code seems to smoke every time I open the door to put wood. It also smokes when you open the door of the camp. It seems to pull smoke out of the stove when you open the camp door. So I’m thinking I need a fresh air vent but don’t know how to do this. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Hey thanks for reaching out. Sounds like you have two issues, the first is that when you open the door to the camp it pulls smoke out of the stove and into the room, a vent can certainly help with this, but location is key, you need to place it as close to the stove as you can. The fact that you are getting smoke when you open the door to stove, is usually wither a fuel, or a flue problem. If the fuel you are burning has a higher moisture content, that can create more smoke which can lead to this. Secondly the flue diameter, length and insulation all can play a factor in the flue pipe temperature and the exchange of the flue gases. In effect you have a lazy draw on the flue meaning that the gases are not being pulled up at the correct speed. There can be alot of factors that can influence a lazy draw including downdraft coming down the flue pipe, trees in the vicinity of the terminal not allowing the gasses to dissipate as intended. Changing to an anti-downdraft cowl, or a rotating updraught cowl might help with increasing the draw in the chimney. I would suggest this would be the first thing to try, before placing an air vent in your new and well insulated hunt camp.
Hope it helps.
Thanks Reece - Fireplace Products
Thx for your reply. Your advise is very much appreciated. I will certainly try that.
This has been a big help thank you! Oh and you are also very cute. That was also a bonus
great video. i like how resposive those stoves are. my cheap stove isn't nearly that quick responding to air adjustments.
It would be if as in this video you open and close both the top and bottom air intakes at the same time .... nothing revolutionary about this basic air input science, posh or cheap stove .... I'm happy to be corrected here
Great video very informative! Wish you would have filmed before or after the operating hours of the business as it was quite difficult to fully hear every due to the massive amounts of back ground noise. Just a pro tip for future videos! Regardless well done and thank you for sharing!
Can you recommend a multifuel stove which is 8kw with a large window but costs under 1k. Thanks
Clearview stoves are the best
@@risenshine2783 is their à website?
So apart from the lower primary vent and the secondary upper vent the stove should be a closed system.
So why does my cast iron stove have a long 1cm wide long slit ( along the stove front) under the top.
I can stick my finger in and run it from left to right.
Awesome video Reece!! Great info and so many views!!!!
Thanks for the support!
Fireplace Products Hi. I have a 1410 morso squirrel and have just had to replace the baffle plate. I don't want to burn through it again if I can help it, and was looking for a little information on HOW to best use the two air vents in future. I live on a boat, and it has been out of commission for two weeks, and my husband will be thrilled that it's now back in working order. it's been nasty getting up in the freezing cold this last couple weeks. Thanks
Hi Anita, thank you for your comment - we'll get to work on a video that will hopefully shed some light on the subject! We'll let you know when it is uploaded.
Have a Henley Sherwood stove both primary and secondary controlls are at he the bottom what's the best way to keep glass clean with the air wash system
Regarding the newer logburners/stoves that have the autopilot feature, with nothing to slide open and closed, when you want to add more logs do you just open the door and add them once its died down abit?
im looking at the wiking mini 2 and i believe this has the autopilot feature.
Thanks!!! I had an air flow issue. I figured it out with your help.
what if your house is so well insulated that ambient air is not enough to cause a up draft. please explain outside air intake
Dont use a wood burner unless air intake is from outside the house
@@risenshine2783 where on/in the stove does the air intake inlet finish????
Very informative and helpful, thank you!
Thanks for the very informative video. I've just bought a low end log burner, I know what to expect from it now.
Is there a way to stop nasty downdraft air coming into home through the air intake on a wood stove insert when it is not in use?
Nice stoves but i came here to find out everything i needed to know about air supplies, instead i just learned that top end stoves have a more accurate air supply than low end stoves. A bit more afformative on how air supply works, and how to make burning wood or coals more efficient.
joel cockerill thanks for the comments, we are always looking for suggestions for new videos. Leace it with us and we will come back to you when we have something for you.
what should i know about being safe if i get a wood burner ? Can i use wood logs from trees or wooden pallets for the wood burner ?
Hi mangreat71, its a good question, we have a blog post that covers this which you can see here: www.fireplaceproducts.co.uk/blog/what-wood-should-you-burn/ but to answer your question directly, never burn wood that has been freshly cut from a tree you need to season it first. Pallet wood is tricky as it can depend on if it has been treated. If they are untreated then they will burn quickly as they are softwoods, and try to avoid using pieces that have nails it, as the metal heats up and can super heat the internal components. I hope that helps.
It helps a lot.and very soon i should be getting my own tools like Saw Cutters and Ratchet sets and screw drivers.And would a Saw Cutter be good for cutting the wooden pallets for the Wood Burner so i can avoid putting the nails in the Wood Burner ?
Sure, just make sure the pallets are not painted or treated in anyway before you burn them
hi where are you based?..
.thanks for video.
Hi Jaber, thanks for the message, we are based in Rayleigh, Essex, UK. Sound was a little issue due to filming it during the day with people in the showroom, but hopefully the message still comes through and we help explain the differences between the air controls on these different models.
+Fireplace Products The noise didn't bother me at all, I came for the information. Who cares if their are people around. I don't get the issue. Great info, great video. Thank you!
The last one YM360...is awesome.. Love to sit next to that with a bottle of whisky!!!... On a cold night!
Thanks for this.
Some feedback on this video and a suggestion for another one . . .
The background noise in your showroom is distracting and could be overcome by shooting the video at the end of the day when you're closed. Just a thought!
I watched this video after doing a TH-cam search for: "How to prevent the glass on my wood burning stove from blacking out?" I have a contemporary 'portrait' style stove (similar to the Wiking Luma Plinth that you stock), and I find the glass turns black with every fire. Cleaning it each time is a real ball ache - so I'm trying to discover what's causing it and to stop it from happening. I'm only burning kiln dried logs - so that's not the problem, but I may be being a tad over zealous in damping the fire down to stop the stove from overheating and to minimise log consumption. Anyway, if you fancy making a video on keeping the glass clean - that would be very useful! ;-)
Good video. I paid £1000 for a Merlin standard stove and although it keeps me warm it has the worst controls of aiflow I have ever seen in a stove. I have never ever seen a picture of lovely flames from the merlin whoose glass blackens as soon as it is turned down. And I've listened to all the crap "Oh you must be burning green wood" ...."Oh you must have the controls set wrong" Merlin stoves are nothing when it comes to flame picture and airwash unlike some of the beauties on this video
The problem with the secondary air is it's already hot before it's entered the heater. For efficiency, it needs to be as cold as possible.
Great video! Two points, the sound needs sorting, and look at the camera when you're explaining. Other than that it was great! I learned a lot.
Are you his self-appointed advisor, or did he ask you for video training?
I've just had a stove fitted and my instructions tell me never to shut off the primary air control whilst burning wood. Why is that?
Which stove do you have? It could be that the stove requires a trickle of air at all times to burn efficiently, it will often vary model to model.
I had a fireplace for 8 r 9 years and I noticed dat fuel burned too quickly and had no way of controlling the flames 🔥 wen up da chimney so now wit a stove I can turn dem flames dwn and keep in da fire longer and heat longer too so il be saving a lot this year
Im a newb, and im trying to figure out why my logs glow hot with little to no flames. We have a Vermont Castings Vigilant wood stove.
Not enough oxygen
@@alexabel751 Good to know. thank you.
Yeah, when I close my vents the same happens to me, the logs smolder red with no flames, so just open your vents more.
If you do that and you still have the issue, then you may not have good air flow.
@@alexabel751 Should you always have a flame when running the wood stove?
Thanks for making this video!
Great stuff thankyou. I am quite new to solid fuel burning, and unsure about a few things thats why i was surfing. Air supply for overnight burning, with wood or smokeless coals top or bottom air supply regulated or both? I am burning both at them moment. Can wood be burnt with smokeless coals? I seem to burn through more coals when i add wood/logs to the mix. Do i need any bottom draught when burning coals as im sure ive read i dont but i am not 100% sure but i do tend to all but shut off the bottom air supply. If you make a vid about any of that please tag me in it.
Thanks for the reply :)
joel cockerill sure will do, take a look at this blog post we did a little while ago, it might help tied you over till we get a video up: www.fireplaceproducts.co.uk/blog/stove-air-vents/ We also have a woodburner community page on Facebook, where you can ask any questions to other stove users who might be able to help: facebook.com/groups/1097610796984563/
How do you stop smelly air from coming out the stove when not in use?
good video but the sound needs sorting
how do i work the air wash system on a charnwood Island 3 boiler stove, that glass is all ways black, ?
Black glass could mean you’re putting wet logs in
would using a hot exhaust extractor fan for a wood burning stove connected to ducting work running out of a garage door to avoid drilling holes for temporary setup area use be safe to use and eliminate risk of carbon monoide posioning if using a wind back flow preventer on the ducting if you also sucked outside air back into the room from a seperate duct fan intake
Hi Mike, I think local regulations may be a factor, but in principal, using a chimney fan on the end of a flue system to help with the draw is often allowed, typically chimney fans are matched with outputs of stoves and length of the flue before the fan, so make sure you let your provider know that. Having an external air feed from outside going directly into your stove (assuming you stove supports that) is a good idea and can (in some locations, local regulations will apply) negate the need for an air brick. As for your exact situation without seeing it its difficult to comment, providing you use suitable flue components and adhere to safe distances to combustibles but i would defiantly consult with a local heating professional who will be able to give you on ground advice looking at your specific situation.Thanks Reece
Good informative video
Thank you for your explanation of the current UK models. However, for future clips, please get rid of the background chatter as this made it very difficult to hear what you had to say.
Where about are you please?
Thanks
Good information - Poor sound - Too much background noise..................................
Der is a air control at the very bottom of my bilberry stove 5kw and der is a wheel on da door and at top another air open and shut so is da very bottom one just for if u burn coal do yea know
The wheel on the door will be the primary air. If there is a lever under the stove this most likely will be a tertiary air supply that comes in via little holes in the back of the firebox. The top one will be the secondary. Depending upon if your Bilberry 5 has an option to flatten the grate when you are burning wood only (as some products do) which diverts the air from under to over the grate as to how much control this wheel will give you. In all cases you will still need the primary air to start the fire, but if you are only burning wood and the grate doesn't flatten, you will find that once the fire is established you should be able to almost close this vent down and use the secondary and tertiary. Remember to light keep them all open and start closing them down accordingly as you go. The manual should also be able to help you in when to close which supply to down to get the best possible burn.
Yea u must be right der is little holes in da back of da stove thanks
Please add a duct or pipe to bring outdoor air directly into your burn chamber, otherwise it will deplete the oxygen in your home.
This is especially important with modern homes being practically air-tight vs. older homes being leaky, perhaps.
just open window a tad. not mechanical, not requiring electricity and oh so easy to do... This too helps vent your kitchen gas stove cooker,
Better sound volume PLEASE!!
Gorgeous.
This fire pit is one of a few covered pits that is on the list th-cam.com/users/postUgkxAU9pOCSV9Y5JprooHvfxTpOrt4hx8uRM of approved products for Disney Fort Wilderness. The product served its purpose well and provided excellent fires throughout the evening. We were able to open the door and do s'mores, but I had to be careful because the handle was a bit hot on occasions. Additionally, I wish they had replaced some of the standard nuts with lock nuts in some places. We lost the door handle after just a couple of days of usage. Not a deal breaker, just a recommendation. I still give it 5 stars.
Even a cheap stove will react instantly to having its air controls adjusted, your just reducing the amount of air to the fire so any stove that has its air supply reduced will slow down instantly
Hi William, typically it depends how air tight the stove is, we have known cheaper stoves to have considerably less control than those featured. Granted all new stoves that are being released (including cheaper models) are getting much more controllable than equivalent older models as the market is so competitive now all manufactures are working to achieve higher standards and conform with the latest regulation changes. Valid point though, so thank you
No chance 😂 I bought an Arundel 500 quid stove. It’s great but it certainly doesn’t react to changes on air flow like these burners!! Nowhere bloody near. Also it make a pretty annoying whistle when air is rushing into it.... all of the time. Love to hear if anybody knows why 🤔
Mine does nothing when I use the vents 😢
You probably need to check your seals.
I have a cheaper stove and it was burning up too fast so I tore it down and used fire cement in the primary and secondary ait vents, sealing them completely and just kept the air wash/tertiary. Did the job. Suggest use your ears, you can usually hear where air is being sucked in...
@@cgavin1 will remember this advice but mines a brand new fire but its at the lower price bracket so its probably working fine, I'm just sad that mine doesn't change like these fancy expensive ones! 😂
@@leer774 It will probably be the same issue mine had: too much air. Also the newer stoves have to comply with defra so they have a fixed minimum air flow that is usually too high. Once I'd sealed mine up it ran fine. The other issue a few run in to is where the stove is hooked up to a larger diameter chimney liner and it draws too hard. Baffles are a popular solution to that problem. I've just sealed up the air vents. 👍
0:23 Close the damned door, you lettin' the cold in!
Sound is very bad to much noise going on in the back ground demo should have been done with no one in the shop
I think this would be an informative video, but the background noise makes it very hard to hear what the instructor is saying.
You need to redo the sound on this video. To much background noise, which covers up your voice.
2:21 wtf that's awesome
What's exactly happening there?
The air supply is cut off. No air = no fire.
Looks to be very useful information but the audio level in places is SHOCKING. Surely you listened to it before uploading..
More 'expensive' stoves give better and more immediate flame control??? Good sales pitch for the dealers bank balance, but totally untrue I'm afraid - Air flow control is air flow control, nothing cheap or expensive about that basic air slider control feature? I suspect some salesman bs here ?? I'm happy to be corrected here
Excellent info but sort the sound out before you publish
Geez it must be 1000 degrees in that store 😅
You can't hear anything he's saying.
I'm hard of hearing anyway, but I can't hear a word of what he's saying,
Will do thankyou :)
sorry mate, audio is so bad i gave up.
I am buying a Clocks Blithfield compact. Approx £1000.00 100% made in UK. Anyone had experience with one of these?
Woodprix has a very large project base.
Is this a silent movie lol
Brill!
bad sound quality on this video, it's like my ears are squinting. The volume is full blast in here and I barely understand you.
Thanks
A working microphone would have made the video watchable (possibly)
Why are we whispering? ??
Very poor audio quality. Too much background noise. Redo the audio to match the good video quality.
You can't really hear what he's saying, the audio is THAT bad.
The ambient noise doesn't help your video at all.
voice over
Next time put a microphone close can't hear .bye
Awful audio - why film when the shop is open
You are so attractive.... x
wham 3630 is hot
Dang I wish i knew English
i was going to come down and buy fifteen stoves but all the noise in the background have ruined the pitch.......therefore for that reason i wont be investing and im OUT!
What type of a reason not to buy you fifteen stoves is that? I'd imagine they're more than pleased not to have to do business with you. The grief wouldn't end once the deal was done.
You shouldn't be in business bud. Understand the product not the salesmen, didn't they teach you that ya big time invester you.
Troll
Terrible audio. Use a good microphone!!
I had to stop your video at 1:07. Between your accent, your soft voice and the conversations in the background I couldn't follow your message.
This guy's too British to understand very well.
Make sure he speaks english next time
Please sort your sound. Very bad. Ruined a fantastic video.
Making a video with customers in the store is really unprofessional, as it shows the lack of effort put in. Stay at work 8 minutes after closing and you'll have a much better video...
Hi Dennis, thanks for the comments, we agree and have slated to reshoot the video soon and will do so once the showroom is closed. Thanks for the feedback
Fireplace Products - Real, real nice looking stoves otherwise...
cant hear you, an poor enuncing im out
cannot understand anything he's saying he has a strong foreign accent
Subtitles are available.
Cannot understand anything that you are writing, you has very strong lack of punctuation, capitalization, and grammar. He's British, exploration and experience in other countries and culture is also available.