My Friends Awesome 580 Watt RV Solar Power System
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 เม.ย. 2015
- 580 Watts RV Solar Power Install. See Full Blog Post - www.loveyourrv.com/my-friends-...
I've admired my friend Eddie's photos of his solar install for a while now and finally had the chance to see it for myself in real life. We were dry camped together for several days and had a great time chatting about RVing and all the mods, repairs and upgrades we have done to our rigs.
I thought other RVing folks would love to get a look at the system and he was kind enough to let me video it and give us some details on the equipment used and how he installed it all.
I think you'll agree he has done a beautiful job on the installation and wiring. I can attest to the fact that it works really well too. While we were boondocked they had no problems running all sorts of things in their rig, from satellite TV to a washer and dryer, deep freeze, kitchen appliances, electronics, etc, etc.
If you'd like to see more of photos of Eddie's solar and power systems as well as numerous other mods and upgrades he has made to his rig head over to the RV Happy Hour. Check out his photo albums page. - rvhappyhour.com/members/eddie/...
Eddies solar service contact details - rvhappyhour.com/forums/topic/m...
Trimetric Monitor link - www.bogartengineering.com/cont...
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Awesome setup and build skills are great here. Like he ran the roof wiring in conduit.
Only thing missing in the video is a beagle shot!
Thanks Ray and Eddie!
Now your videos Will be my guide for boondocking are awesome and very inspirational
Thanks! :)
Studying solar for my 16 Navion...what nice conduit system 10 wire! Love the angle capabilities of the panels!
That's best system I'v seen yet built by scratch.
Ray,
Another cool video. This one was a bit complicated for my college professor mind. Remember we have no common sense!!! However, I want to learn more and more about solar. I think it is an integral tool for power within an RV coach. Thanks for sharing!
Take care,
Dean
sweet system!!! really nice!!! just a Note: MPPT gives you ability to run HIGHER voltages and low amps!!!! therefor smaller wire!!! PWM means lower volts and Higher amps: therefore bigger wires!!! keep them coming!!!
Very nicely wired, neat and tidy.
Wow!! Solar is amazing! Thanks for sharing!
This is the best solar install I've seen in a very long time. This guy pays attention to details and was very choose his components very carefully. Excellent job, thanks for sharing.
I agree Lloyd, if you want to see some more of Eddie's work I have a post on my blog where he installed a system in a Cougar fifth wheel and sent me some vidoe footage. - www.loveyourrv.com/rv-solar-power-system-detailed-install-advice-and-tips/ Cheers Ray
beautiful setup
Nice, Eddie's setup is amazing. Could watch hours of videos on his rig setup.
Chris Garrett Yes, pretty sweet setup, was nice to spend some time boondocking with him and his family talking RV stuff. :)
Found your channel today, and have been watching several videos. Really enjoy your tips. We are in the process of selling our house and moving full time into an RV in the next month, you videos have been helpful in our planning.
Chris Garrett Awesome, thanks, congrats on going full time. It's a great lifestyle.
Terrific job!
The only problem I have with roof mounted panels, is I always look for the shadiest spot I can squeeze my trailer into in the summer months. Having them on the roof would limit the exposure a lot. Right now I have a small solar system that I deploy on the ground and move around as needed. Otherwise, great system.
Great info. Thanks mate.
Very impressive.
Impressive system no doubt. Very very professional and wyse setup.
Also a good choice ... PWM Morningstar charge controller ... with current prices for solar panels the most important is not to obtain the maximum out of your solar panels, but rather to make your batteres last longer ...
If anyone wants more power or a faster charge ... just add more solar panels.
Good video.
Thanks John, I like your logic :) Cheers Ray
thanks for sharing
Yay another Vlog. .......
RV manufacturers should take note. They could justify the expense in their super premium motor homes. They would benefit their reputations.
Ok I see the diagram very cool
used this in the rv battery solar 300 a/h and run tv/ satellites and your lights
looks like where bttf3 was filmed that cave & all looks the same!!
Dangggg Nice!!! I need this for my horse trailer
+GdyUpGal Gypsy Adventures Yup. pretty sweet! Eddie has even added some more this summer, now has 720 watts on the roof and 765AH of battery capacity - rvhappyhour.com/members/eddie/activity/30576/ Cheers Ray
well it was a nice set up for sure
Very orderly and tidy. I'm super glad I did not see this video before I got my 200 watts of solar. I NEVER would have attempted! ;) Maybe a video of a simple solar set up for the average person? I have charge controller and 2 inverters (410 MSW and 600 PSW) at the front corner of my 23' TT, all about 18" from my batteries on the other side of the wall. I'm all for the KISS method! Full-timer as well.
Suzie Cue I posted a video before on my 200W solar setup and it is pretty simple. :) th-cam.com/video/Z7x1iX66olk/w-d-xo.html
Hey, I like your straps, is that bicycle inner tube?
you guys should write an e-book - i'd buy it
Very nice setup, I'm going to be setting up the start to my solar charging setup this weekend. One thing Eddie, you got series and parallel backwards in there.
RV Crazy I added an annotation correction about that, they don't show on mobile tho, it was a brain to mouth cross up mistake, the man was still drinking his morning coffee :) Thanks Ray
Love Your RV Interesting, I am not seeing it on my laptop running firefox. Maybe its because of one of my extensions on the browser.
RV Crazy Works OK on my laptop in Firefox, comes up around 5:10 in. Do you run an adblocker?
Yes I do run an adblocker. Is that what is messing with it? I also notice that whenever people put links like to other videos in their video that I can't click on them.
Could be or maybe you don't have annotations enabled in your YT settings - th-cam.com/users/account_playback
Nice system, I think I would use eternabond tape on the cables then no holes need to be drilled.
Really like the subjects of your videos. It would be nice if you could slow down the speed of pans and zooms to give a little more time to take in the great views. Always eager to see the next interesting and informative video.
Herk_66 Traveler Thanks! for the feedback, will do. Cheers Ray
Cool.
In another of your nice videos you gave us a demo of the sound of your furnace fan and it was really loud. Maybe you have that on your list of things to look into, if it is possible to find a more quiet solution? Some kind of regulated fan maybe with variable RPM?
The fan is built into the furnace so modifying it may be difficult. I have small portable heaters both electric and propane that I often use instead.
Change out that PWM with the MPPT and you will get at least 30-35% more out of the panels then you are now. That's why the cost more up front but you don't need to buy that extra panel.
Great Build
Claude Rains I don't think it is that black and white as MPPT always being a better choice and by at least that much in all conditions. 30-35% sounds pretty optimal and not seen during the whole day and depends on the charge state of the battery bank.
Many factors can influence the choice of controller type to use. - solarcraft.net/articles/comparing-pwm-and-mppt-charge-controllers/ I believe Eddie was influenced by Handy Bob's advice in building his system - handybobsolar.wordpress.com/rv-solar-quick-answer/ He has an interesting take on it.
For some folks taking the extra money and adding more battery capacity may make more sense than the extra cash into a MPPT controller as power storage capacity is the other part of the solar equation. If your tank is all full, no use having more to add sort of thing.
All in all though if you have lots of cash and a large amount of solar panel wattage MPPT looks to be the best way to go. Do you have any recommendations of a quality MPPT controller brand. They all seem to boast as being the best and having special technology.
Well I installed many an RV solar system and not one PWM can out perform an MPPT when matched with correct parts.
I might add. Adding more batteries isn't going to fix an under power system. Each 12 volt battery needs at miniuim 12-15 amps to recharge in a normal 5-6 hr day of sun light. If you can't supply that amount to each of your batteries. You will never reach 95% state of charge. Unless you don't use it the next day. If you can't keep it charged properly the batteries die an early death.
These are just some of the problems people with a little knowledge and bad advise run into.
I'm not saying a MPPT doesn't outperform a PWM, I'm saying it is not always the best way to spend your money.
Sure on an under powered system that's true, but if the PWM controller is supplying plenty of power to charge the battery bank, money may be better spent on more capacity than on an upgrade to a MPPT controller.
This is actually the case with Eddies system, he is looking to increase the battery capacity from 420AH to 600AH as his next investment. Capacity is the weakest point in this solar power system right now. He realizes this after spending months boondocking with the current system.
The extra panel he wants is for the early morning low sun, He wants to have a portable one he can deploy on the ground angled real low and pointed east so he can get the recharge happening earlier and not have the batteries run down too far before the sun hits the main roof panels.
Until those two things happen an upgrade to a MPPT to get more power from the panels isn't going to help him much. That's where lifestyle choices come into play. Some people use a ton of power during the day and others RVers don't need near as much daytime power, but want extra battery power for the evening.
Claude Rains wouldn't running a series of 6v batteries be the better way to go
You can also bypass the controler but you have to manage voltage with load and watch it carefuly as the voltage will run wild. But if you are home and want to run high loads like an ac you will have lots of current.
Nice video and nice work on the solar install. I am curious on the intelli power smart converter install. Typically many just replace the old with the new smart converter which simply involves disconnecting the wires on the old and reconnecting to the new. In moving the converter to the front near the batteries, how is that accomplished? What happens to the wires from the old once it is removed? Thanks.
Thanks Bruce. Here is a blog post I did about installing mine - www.loveyourrv.com/installing-the-inteli-power-pd9260-for-improved-rv-battery-charging/
Here is an update on the install as well - th-cam.com/video/zuGAwXHKbwU/w-d-xo.htmlm24s
Cheers Ray
Ray I really enjoy your vedio's but have a question , what was the material that Eddie used to build his battery box?
Thanks! I think it was some type of soffit board he bought on the east coast. Really good against the coastal moisture.
I would be curious to find out where he located the vinyl soffit panels
I kept looking for the Flux capacitor .I'm sure it was there I just must of missed it in all that electric solar porn . Nice job
Hey Ray.
Great videos and lots of information. I was wondering , With regards to the solar panels, in your travels have you had any concerns with hail hitting the panels and damaging them?
Thank you.
Andy
I haven't had any issues, however, I have to admit I don't often encounter much hail. They are designed to handle a fairly large hailstone, like about an inch, beyond that if larger hail is hitting the rig, solar panels may be the least of my worries, I've heard of whole rigs being written off after a large hailstorm. Cheers! Ray
Thank you, I enjoy your videos,
The vent for the battery box, is there a small fan to move the air? Or just the open piping? Btw great video! Tks for sharing.
There is also a 3" round hole in the bottom of the box to the outside so a convection effect takes place. So far it's worked well, no build up of gases or signs of corrosion from gas build up. So I don't think a fan is necessary. The storage compartment is also very ventilated with the landing jack openings and openings on each side to the LP gas cylinder storage areas. In a sealed up area a fan could be a good option, though. Thanks Ray
+Love Your RV thank you for taking the time to respond. In mine I think I'll have to use a computer fan, just to be on the safe side. Take care!
Hi Ray, Great video. (Actually, all your videos are great and very helpful). Anyhow, could you please help me understand how and why he is continuing to use his original NPower 30 Amp Charge Controller (the blue one) in this setup? To what is it connected? (ie to all of the batteries and solar panels? or just to a subset of them? Does is still 'control'? or just monitor?) Thanks in advance
I'll ask Eddie - mobilehomesteading.com/ and see what it was for, I can't quite remember the exact setup, will get back to you. Ray
Here is the answer - It is the first/original charger controller, I left it on to check voltage. If you look at our latest video on our ”Off-Grid RV” you'll will see it was removed so I could make room for the twin system. Here is a link to the new Mobile Homestead power set-up - th-cam.com/video/DmAHDDlojLc/w-d-xo.html
Thank You Ray!
do you have a video or can you do a video step by step on setting it up please!!??
I noticed your friend Eddy has used flexible conduit on the roof for his solar panel to the combiner boxes. I understand the connections for conduit to a combiner box, but wondering what he used, if anything, at the other end, under the solar panels to connect the conduit under the panel? Thx.
You can see more photos of his work here - rvhappyhour.com/members/eddie/media/1323/
Also here is his website if you'd like to get more info - mobilehomesteading.com/
Cheers Ray
Thanks Ray that helps a lot. Happy travels. Bruce
Is there anyone out there who could help a widowed teacher (me), who's going full time when I retire to set up my solar system? I am a very smart person but a lot of this doesn't make sense to me. I've watched your videos and and love all of your helpful information. I even installed my own Fantastic fans with your help. I'm not sure I can do the solar.
What does the inteli-power charger/converter get wired to??? This seems to be the hardest thing for me to figure out.
It's just being used for generator charging I believe and is wired directly to the battery bank. Think of it as a high-end battery charger, works better than the OEM system that is in the rig. Having it so close to the batteries reduces wire losses and speeds charging.
Will it run the AC only??I want to Isolate it and run my ac free no grid
holy crap......I took one look at that wired panel box and my head started spinning....lol
WICKED setup, but man,.....overwhelming to consider......
just a question,.....in simple terms,....how is his onboard generator hooked into all of that?.....hahah
wish you would've shown it.....oh well.
sbecktacular It's a external generator and it gets plugged into the Intelli-Power Converter to charge up the batteries.
ahh.....ic--thanx!
sbecktacular Here’s the complete step-by-step setup fully illustrated manuals and easy to follow video instructions present in the guide you will be able to create renewable energy at home.
Go here ==> earth4energy-new2.blogspot.com/
wow! ....cool, thanx a lot!
Fergus Donnelly h
That's a very cool system! But, it could have been somewhat simplified and reduced in size by having it be a 48 vdc system, rather than a 12 vdc system. All those large cables force your system to be larger. Four times the voltage translates into 1/4 the current requirement to transfer the same amount of power - so, 1/4 the required cable sizes, as well as smaller transfer switches. You could also put the panels in series and use an MPPT charge controller at a lower current rating set to a higher voltage.
To put this into better perspective, remember, voltage drop across any given length of a conductor is going to remain a constant. For example, if you lose 1vdc across a fifty foot length of a conductor, at 12vdc, you're losing about 8% of your power across the run. But, at 48vdc, you're still losing only 1vdc across the run, but it now represents only about 2% loss of power across the run. The bottom line is how much power you're losing across the run, and that's dependent on the voltage drop and the voltage at the input - since, the current capacity of the run is also a constant. In other words, you can get more power across a run at higher voltage without ever exceeding the current limit of the conductor.
Also, remember, a 20 amp MPPT controller that is capable of charging a 48 vdc battery bank can transfer more power than a 45 amp charge controller into a 12 vdc battery bank (45x12
Isn't running a 48-volt battery bank going to open a whole other kettle of fish as far as complexity since all the RVs existing DC systems are designed to run on 12 volts?
No, the solution is simple - just use a 120 VAC to 12 VDC power supply for for the 12vdc appliances. The only thing that should be running on 12 vdc are LED lights and perhaps a 12 VDC refrigerator. And, you already have that in this installation in the form of that big 12 VDC battery charger.
Ultimately, the majority of your power usage is going to be from devices that use 120 VAC. So, what needs to be done is come up with the most efficient way to get that 120 VAC. And, that can be done with much smaller wires and switches, etc, than what is being used here. You want the most power you can extract from your solar panels and that is accomplished by using a higher voltage system that requires smaller gauge wires, switches, breakers, and fuses.
Our RV has many 12-volt circuits besides lights. Furnace fan 8 amps, water pumps 6 amps, fridge circuits, propane detector, stereo system multiple cooling and exhaust fans, etc. On a cold night winter of boondocking my furnace fan can eat up 25 AH alone. My wife likes it warm.
Don't you think there is going to be a lot of wasted power converting 48VDC to 120VAC then back to 12 volt DC. I'd hazard to guess the inverter and converters are only 85-95% efficient, plus now they are idling all the time eating a few amps to give a constant 12 volts.
What do you use to charge the 48-volt bank when there isn't solar power?
I think running 48 volts in a standard 400-600 watt boondocking RV setup might have more complications and extra cost than its worth. Starts to make using large wires seem like not a bad way to go if looking for good bang for the buck.
Good reply Ray!
Happy Trails!!!
I'm sorry you might have said and I missed it, but is he a full timer?
rae1957tn Yup. he is a member over on my RV Happy Hour site - rvhappyhour.com/members/eddie/profile/
VERY professional! I'm surprised though that he's using non-AGM batteries for this setup? He should look into VMax batteries.
ChillCosmos Eddie recently added some new batteries. Here are his battery banks now -
rvhappyhour.com/forums/topic/trojan-t-105re-battery-bank-install/
rvhappyhour.com/forums/topic/installing-a-second-315-ah-battery-bank/
+ChillCosmos
6v GC2s have 30 more capacity and are half the price to AGMs.
unless your flying upside down. you dont need AGMs
Agms have more benefits than just non spilling. I still prefer wet cells and 12 volts.
Do you know what brand and model of 12v batteries he had and any feed back on their performance?
Trojans, I believe. Here is a link to details of Eddie's recent battery upgrade - rvhappyhour.com/forums/topic/trojan-t-105re-battery-bank-install/
Boy, Eddie just doesn't like maintenance free AGM batteries. I guess it's all just a preference because it sure is not logical.
Pretty fantastic - unfortunately I understood about 65% of how his system worked. Nope - don't try to explain it! I'll put my mind to this in a couple of months & try to figure it. Warmest regards to you both.
Jennie Williams Thanks very much. :)
What brand and size Dimensions are the solar panels?
+JAMs These are the newer pair and the ones he recommends - www.solar-electric.com/kyocera-kd140sx-ufbs-140-watt-polycrystalline-solar-panel.html
question : how you do to stop the converter from runninf whne you using hte inverter ??
diego bauzil If you mean you would like to plug your main RV power wire into the inverter and have it power the RVs AC circuits, then just turn off the circuit breaker for the converter before plugging in. On my RV there is a breaker on the power panel marked converter. That will disable the converter.
thanx man. by the way does a 200 watts pure sige inverter will be enough to run therv refrigerator and may be a tv and a video or blue ray ?
diego bauzil Should run the electronics OK but not the fridge, the electric element in mine is 375 watts. But the fridge should run on LP gas instead of electricity.
2000 watts , my bad ..
What is a deep freeze that you are referring to?
Jason Gondola Its an appliance for freezing bulk amounts of food, like found in regular refrigerators but much larger.
Why didnt you go with a 48 volt system?. smaller wire size and less voltage drop?
Crazy Canuk I guess you mean why the panels weren't wired in a series string? I believe it was because he was able to get the large gauge wiring at very little cost, left over stuff he had kicking around from other applications, With such large wire the voltage drop is already very low so running it up to 48 volts doesn't have that large of an effect..
He then able to save some money by using a PVM instead of a more expensive MPPT controller and apply that to other parts of the system instead. By wiring the panels in parallel, the system is much less affected by losses due to shading and if one panel goes bad the whole system doesn’t go down, so better reliability. There are pros and cons to every solar install.
Eddie's system seems to perform very well in the real world boondocking tests from what I saw.
Wouldn't it be great if all those items (less batteries)
could be combined in one box.
Great comment section. Did you have to clean out trolls, or have you just attracted a more civilized community? Well done!
Hardly at all, RVers are friendly folks. :)
Cheers! Rau
Depth of Discharge (DOD) has an effect on life of batteries but people assume less discharge gives the batteries longer life.. that is NOT really true.. the depth of discharge effects the cycle life of the battery but the capacity of amps drawn over time is not better with lower DOD.. I have 6 Rolls Surrette S-550's in my bank.. the Rolls Surrette manual states that…
80% DOD gives life of 800 cycles
50% DOD gives life of 1400 cycles
20% DOD gives life of 2000 cycles
OK, you look at that and say 2000 cycles is longer life but consider the amp draw over the total life of the battery.. lets say the bank is 100 amp hour capacity…
80% DOD = 80 AH draw x 800 cycles = 64,000 AH
50% DOD = 50 AH draw x 1400 cycles = 70,000 AH
20% DOD = 20 AH draw x 2000 cycles = 40,000 AH
now you see that doing only 20% DOD does give you more cycles but less energy to use… your best use for maximum energy draw over the life of the battery is about 50% DOD.. now lets say you have calculated your energy need for a day and have discovered that it is 80% of your battery capacity and you decide you want to only draw 50%, then you need to add batteries… that costs you more money, uses more space, and adds more weight..
my bank is 6 Rolls Surrette S-550's.. they are $400 each, are about 1 cubic foot in size and weigh 125 lbs.. the bank costs $2400, takes up 6 cubic feet of space and weighs 750 lbs.. to go from 80% DOD to 50% DOD I will need to add 2 more batteries.. that costs $800 more, uses 2 more cubic feet of space and adds 250 lbs of weight.. you really think that is worth it to decrease the DOD to 50%? I don't think so.. my bank was sized to discharge about 80% in winter and 50% in summer...
+MrMeanderthal
Nicely quantified.
You should look at Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries and calculate there product lifespan. Short answer is they cost twice as much but last 4 times as long. they weigh very little and can handle deep discharge with no consequence.
Interesting stuff. Those are some nice batteries!
I looked up the very commonly used Trojan T-105s DOD specs. They are quite different than the Rolls Surrette so maybe that is where the assumptions stem from.
4000 cycles to 20% DOD
1700 cycles to 50% DOD
1000 cycles to 80% DOD
So using your formula I get...
80% DOD = 80 AH draw x 1000 cycles = 80,000 AH
50% DOD = 50 AH draw x 1700 cycles = 85,000 AH
20% DOD = 20 AH draw x 4000 cycles = 80,000 AH
Trojans are around $200 each 67lbs Length: 10.375in. Width: 7.125in. Height: 10.875in
+Love Your RV Rolls Surrette has some batteries that are the same 'GC' size as T-105, they are S-290.. but their 'life/cycle' is the same as the S-550 I have.. S-550 are 'L-16' size and are the same 'series 4000' as the S-290.. Rolls has a 'series 5000' that have a similar life/cycle as the Trojans you noted but they only make L-16 and bigger.... lots of battery companies make the GC size batteries and all the life/cycles though different have the one thing in common.. that's 50% DOD is the best bang for the buck..
I did a lot of research before I got my solar system and what I learned is the DOD life/cycle is real to a point but, the real death of batteries is not from it.. the real killers are..
over charging
under charging
not charging
oxidation from letting water get low
bad connections
if you balance your system with the right amount of charge capacity and do proper maintenance you go pretty much full life of batteries without issues even when you deeply discharge them continually
+MrMeanderthal DOD was one of the factors for our systems storage size along with funds available. We run larger inverters with fulltime loads. Due to a Phenomenon known as "Peukert's Law", LA "Wet" batteries drain at an accelerated rate when powering high current loads at lower voltages found in higher wattage inverter use at high DOD. This use sacrificing as much as 40% of their capacity rating in the process. Voltage drop at a higher DOD, south of 50% charge, will cause Peukert reduction increasing the % of discharge affect of Peukert's Law. This is why if you run heavy inverter loads you should try to keep your bank at or above 50% DOD to get the rated cycles. I run our system with a larger storage so we can have a longer inverter run time on the battery bank.
I will change our bank over some day when they work out the "Kinks" in the LFP Lithium batteries and also bring the cost down a bit. They are lighter, smaller in size, and hold voltage up to final discharge ( 85% to 90%) before it drops. LFP Lithium's are not affected by Peukert's Law. Just like charging batteries, voltage plays a big part in how much currant/AH you will receive from your bank. Thats why we run larger at a lower DOD than you do.
I love the R/S L-16 AGM's but need to win the lotto to pay for a set!
Happy Trails!!!
Eddie---- Mobile Homestead Solar Services E-mail-- www.wyglonekseal@aol.com
Looks complicated. Is he a electrical engineering?
He could sell that diagram.
Captian Marvel He does have a background in Heating and Air systems but most of the solar stuff is self taught from reading online.
;-)
Techie....an absolute nightmare. Really, is all that needed ? What if we know close to nothing about electrical ? It sure is neat, clean.
May want to consider these if you want 10,000 cycles...98% efficiency... use down to 20%...no gas issues...mount anywhere....no fire hazard in a nice neat lithium configuration th-cam.com/video/jj83sQ_kAyM/w-d-xo.html And maybe these for direct AC from the panels (micro controllers) th-cam.com/video/Q_2VxngSnKw/w-d-xo.html
Great, if you have the money to spend on them.
That's what I thought till I seen that they come in cheaper at .14 lifetime per K/W hours....as show in the chart breakdown in the first video..
It's the upfront cost that is the problem. My 4 golf cart batteries serve our needs well and are tried and true for about $500 dollars for 4 giving me about 200 AH of usable capacity. They'll last 5 - 7 years, then I'll take a look at what lithium has evolved too. I'll let folks richer than I be the guinea pigs for the newer tech. I like to stay behind the early adopter curve. :)
like your vids....
with that said,,,fir this vid ?...fingernails on the chalkboard hearing you pigging backing back of this dude trying to act like you know what the hell he was talking bout lol...kinda like David spades character in coneheads....
duane124 Thanks for the feedback, nice to know... but fir this comment.... I'm not really digging your movie analogy, kinda lame,...lol. ;)
Love Your RV yeah ...im pretty lame with obscure references..... keep rocking your vids
Total over kill!! Talk about a fire waiting to happen lolololololololololololololol
Where is the fire risk your seeing,? Maybe I missed something. The system looked well protected by circuit breakers and fuses and definitely wasn't lacking in large enough wire sizing.
Love Your RV the fire risk is thermal dynamic. You can't cross so many high power AWG wires over each other all over the place. High power lines should have there own space.
Thermal dynamic? Sorry, I'm not that smart, can you dumb it down for me. How do you envision the fire happening? Bear in mind the wiring is DC, not AC, oversized for its functional current load and double fuse. With each wire run fused and a catastrophic failsafe fuse in place on the main feed. Thanks Ray
Does he sell the schematic for this setup ?
Kelly Sheridan He has a hand written block diagram in his photo gallery on RV Happy Hour - rvhappyhour.com/members/eddie/media/1323/
Thanks !