Very good tutorial. No unnecessary comments, only valuable information - specifics. And most importantly, the individual stages are shown very precisely. Thank you very much.
Nice work! Would add some advice next time use some ceramic grease on the injectors! And would be nice if you still have the valve cover to cut it open to see what is inside and what goes bad!
Excellent tuto . Thank you very much . I am missing the common rail 2 x M6 bolts torque . Mine were torqued really hard . Is there a risk to damage the sealing efficiency if all the valve cover bolts are at 10N.m and these two torqued at 25n.m ? Thank you .
Hello! Thanks! for a valuable Video. Do you know how to buy Vida Dice for Volvo cars from Model Year 2018 and up? And do you know if my Volvo s60 D3 150 hp 4 cylinder, Year model 2018, is exactly the same, in the engine, as your engine is in the Video? Can I follow your video, when I have to change the valve cover gasket on my car? Thanks! From Tommy Bertilsson from Sweden
Hi, I am wondering, would it save time to use the crows foot to loosen the bolts for the idividual fuel injection lines but keep the lines on the common rail and simply lift the common rail off in one piece?
Hey, nice tutorial but are you sure tightening torque for injector screws is 90Nm and 60degrees ? I was quite sure service book claimed it is 19Nm and 60degrees... And you should always be using new srews as they are torque to yield 😉
@@MrNiceGuy94 Haven't seen the comment ;) Hope no one has stripped their threads watching this haha :D i've done it 3 times already and always when using only 19Nm and 60DEG felt like "one more inch and threads are gone" :D very stressful feeling, really don't want to re-thread the head :-) greetings from Poland !
@@MrAdasiskohej witam. Mam u siebie taki sam silnik i ten problem. Chyba ten problem, bo po odkręceniu korka też mi tak dmucha do góry. Nie szukałbym wcale ale coś mi dało do myślenia. Po wymianie oleju (a zalałem go 6 L czyli za dużo i upuściłem za dwa dni na 5,4) auto zaczęło mi puszczać niebieskiego bąka nie zależnie od jazdy. Jest to raz dziennie albo i wcale. Przed tym tego nie było. Czy to jest spowodowane właśnie tą odma którą on wymienia na filmie ??? Jak myślisz ??? Po nocy auto nie dymi.
@@arturtomala1533 ja u siebie już wykluczyłem problem z odmą. Dało mi do myślenia i zobaczyłem u siebie w avensis T27. I też tak samo dmucha. Czyli prawidłowo. Ale żeby potwierdzić to założyłem taką rękawiczkę i przytrzymałem na wlewie i druga osoba uruchomiła silnik i u mnie nie pompuje tej rękawiczki. Czyli nie tworzy się ciśnienie. A dymienie chyba powoli ustaje bo może gdzieś wyrzuciło nadmiar oleju i poszedł w wydech i wypluło albo jeszcze wypala. Narazie temat zamykam i obserwuję. Kilka dni temu zrobiłem generalne czyszczenie kolektora dolotowego przepustnicy i zaworu egr. Polecam
A brilliant explanation except you said 90nm for injector bolts and 60 degrees after.this is wrong. It's 19nm then 60 degree turn.my bolt broke at about 45nm.its probably an accent fault but it comes up a 90nm on subtitles . All the same,I appreciate the video
@@MrNiceGuy94 Oh well, Wish you were up my way, Sheffield, It's just that Im having problems with my EGR valve and cooler engine light as been on since March this year code p04d900, Volvo wants 13 hundred pounds just for the parts not including labour which is probably going to take it to like 2k wow,that's like a quarter of what the car is worth I'm finding it hard/ difficult to part with all that money when my car runs just fine, no loss of power ever no limp mode ever, no ruff idle, no stalling ever, I feel like there have me by my balls because the M.O.T is due next month and it's an instant fail isn't it just for the engine light been on, just don't know what to do or where to turn... And I know it's NOT your problem, Merry Christmas... By the way my car is a volvo V40 D4 r design 2.0 diesel year 2014
I happened to replace from my Volvo V60 CC that valve cover + gasket and other needed parts for injectors, but I am puzzled because it really seems that the new valve gasket / cover still leaks from the back of the motor. @MrNiceGuy94 I wonder is this 10Nm correct torque amount for these screws? I did use moment tool to set my screws to exactly 10 Nm.
@@MrNiceGuy94 yeah 10Nm is quite much. Did you use loctite 243 threadlocker of similar? Just wondering that are these screws prone to open under vibration. I didn't apply threadlocker. I need to check at least when I get the change that are any of the screws below 10 Nm.
@@MrNiceGuy94 Hi . I just done the Change of the Valve cover . I torqued the bolts the same way you mentionned . I just got today a different bolt tightening order from Volvo . Are you sure about yours ? 10NM is correct for the torque .
Hello , I need your assistance how can I get hold of you and your garage ?! I need to replace the head gasket sealer . Can you please send me your details! Thank you
I got problem, i forgot I dont know how but i forgot to screw down injector 1. At begining while ignition was on i heared ticking noise from one than i started a car idle was rough and then injector poped out. Than i screwd back on and still bad idle. Should i change the o ring again on injector 1
Hi, I'm planing on doing this job on my v40 d2, is it a problem if I can't clean the injector hols as good as You did, and those cooper washers do they stay fixed on the injector or can they fall,. One more question, what is the procedure once you put it all back together, I guess the fuel system needs to charge, because there is air in the system. Thank You, Hello from Croatia Ivan
Hello Ivan, Obviously the best would be if you could clean the injector holes. The important part is that the hole surface is as clean as you can get. If you use new washers they probably will fall off from the injector tips. I used Vaseline, put a tiny bit onto the washer and then I put the washer onto the injector nozzle. Well,when I put everything back together I just started it up and it fired up on the first attempt. Although, you can cycle the ignition a few times before starting up and that should prime the fuel pump. Or maybe use a scan tool and prime the pump with it. But as I wrote, I just started the car up and it was working.
@@MrNiceGuy94 Thank You for the fast answer, another question, I'm thinking of making an diy adapter for removing injectors, do You know, what thread size and pitch are the injectors threads, or what's the tool nut size, by my knowing 17mm nut gets You a 10mm bolt with 1,5 mm thread pitch, but I know that can't be the case all the time. And to point out, Your videos are a confidence booster, and I 'm grateful that You are sharing Your knowledge, experience and expertise. Thank You!
Thanks for your nice words. Unfortunately I don't know the thread and the pitch size, however I can link you the tool I used, it has different adaptors, I think it was around £30-40.
Very good tutorial.
No unnecessary comments, only valuable information - specifics.
And most importantly, the individual stages are shown very precisely.
Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice work! Would add some advice next time use some ceramic grease on the injectors! And would be nice if you
still have the valve cover to cut it open to see what is inside and what goes bad!
Could you upload a short video of how to test the glove after changing the valve cover? Thanks and nice video!
Excellent tuto . Thank you very much . I am missing the common rail 2 x M6 bolts torque . Mine were torqued really hard . Is there a risk to damage the sealing efficiency if all the valve cover bolts are at 10N.m and these two torqued at 25n.m ? Thank you .
Awesome video, but what is the root cause to the problem? Have you checked if the PCV valve besides the glove is bad?
Great vid.. but one should allways replace the rtv under the no1 camshaft cap - usually those that leak and not the valve cover gasket.
Mistrzu pomogłeś👏
Spoko ;)
Hello! Thanks! for a valuable Video. Do you know how to buy Vida Dice for Volvo cars from Model Year 2018 and up? And do you know if my Volvo s60 D3 150 hp 4 cylinder, Year model 2018, is exactly the same, in the engine, as your engine is in the Video? Can I follow your video, when I have to change the valve cover gasket on my car? Thanks! From Tommy Bertilsson from Sweden
Hi, I am wondering, would it save time to use the crows foot to loosen the bolts for the idividual fuel injection lines but keep the lines on the common rail and simply lift the common rail off in one piece?
Hey, nice tutorial but are you sure tightening torque for injector screws is 90Nm and 60degrees ? I was quite sure service book claimed it is 19Nm and 60degrees... And you should always be using new srews as they are torque to yield 😉
Nope, you are correct on it.
But I have pinned that in the comment section as well. ;)
@@MrNiceGuy94 Haven't seen the comment ;) Hope no one has stripped their threads watching this haha :D i've done it 3 times already and always when using only 19Nm and 60DEG felt like "one more inch and threads are gone" :D very stressful feeling, really don't want to re-thread the head :-) greetings from Poland !
@@MrAdasiskohej witam. Mam u siebie taki sam silnik i ten problem. Chyba ten problem, bo po odkręceniu korka też mi tak dmucha do góry.
Nie szukałbym wcale ale coś mi dało do myślenia. Po wymianie oleju (a zalałem go 6 L czyli za dużo i upuściłem za dwa dni na 5,4) auto zaczęło mi puszczać niebieskiego bąka nie zależnie od jazdy. Jest to raz dziennie albo i wcale. Przed tym tego nie było. Czy to jest spowodowane właśnie tą odma którą on wymienia na filmie ??? Jak myślisz ??? Po nocy auto nie dymi.
@@felipe29Technologymam ten sam problem, jak możemy się skontaktować
@@arturtomala1533 ja u siebie już wykluczyłem problem z odmą. Dało mi do myślenia i zobaczyłem u siebie w avensis T27. I też tak samo dmucha. Czyli prawidłowo.
Ale żeby potwierdzić to założyłem taką rękawiczkę i przytrzymałem na wlewie i druga osoba uruchomiła silnik i u mnie nie pompuje tej rękawiczki. Czyli nie tworzy się ciśnienie. A dymienie chyba powoli ustaje bo może gdzieś wyrzuciło nadmiar oleju i poszedł w wydech i wypluło albo jeszcze wypala. Narazie temat zamykam i obserwuję.
Kilka dni temu zrobiłem generalne czyszczenie kolektora dolotowego przepustnicy i zaworu egr. Polecam
Hi
Do you know what size thread the top of the injector is so I can make a puller
Thanks
Hi, what's the size for the injector thread? Just to know the slide hammer adapter
A brilliant explanation except you said 90nm for injector bolts and 60 degrees after.this is wrong. It's 19nm then 60 degree turn.my bolt broke at about 45nm.its probably an accent fault but it comes up a 90nm on subtitles .
All the same,I appreciate the video
Nic work sir
Thank you very much!
After of cover replacement , did you solve the problem? does the glove swell?
yeah, it was solved.
Wow,what a good Job! What country are you from?
Originally from Slovakia, but living in the UK.
@MrNiceGuy94 hi, which part of the UK if you don't mind me asking ?
East London/Essex.
@@MrNiceGuy94 Oh well,
Wish you were up my way, Sheffield,
It's just that Im having problems with my EGR valve and cooler engine light as been on since March this year code p04d900, Volvo wants 13 hundred pounds just for the parts not including labour which is probably going to take it to like 2k wow,that's like a quarter of what the car is worth I'm finding it hard/ difficult to part with all that money when my car runs just fine, no loss of power ever no limp mode ever, no ruff idle, no stalling ever,
I feel like there have me by my balls because the M.O.T is due next month and it's an instant fail isn't it just for the engine light been on, just don't know what to do or where to turn...
And I know it's NOT your problem,
Merry Christmas...
By the way my car is a volvo V40 D4 r design 2.0 diesel year 2014
I happened to replace from my Volvo V60 CC that valve cover + gasket and other needed parts for injectors, but I am puzzled because it really seems that the new valve gasket / cover still leaks from the back of the motor. @MrNiceGuy94 I wonder is this 10Nm correct torque amount for these screws? I did use moment tool to set my screws to exactly 10 Nm.
I would say yes as you tightening them down through a plastic hole, so 10NM should be enough.
@@MrNiceGuy94 yeah 10Nm is quite much. Did you use loctite 243 threadlocker of similar? Just wondering that are these screws prone to open under vibration. I didn't apply threadlocker. I need to check at least when I get the change that are any of the screws below 10 Nm.
@@MrNiceGuy94 Hi . I just done the Change of the Valve cover . I torqued the bolts the same way you mentionned . I just got today a different bolt tightening order from Volvo . Are you sure about yours ? 10NM is correct for the torque .
nice tutorial, but ffs i have stripped the injector bolts doing the 90Nm... Should have double checked it
I broke mine
This was sadly not my problem. Arter the replacement its still puching air out of the refill. My guess is that my oilrings are bad
Hi I need this work doing on my V70 D4, would you consider doing it for me?
I think I trust you rather than a dealership
Hello, I have messaged you back on gmail.
Hello , I need your assistance how can I get hold of you and your garage ?! I need to replace the head gasket sealer . Can you please send me your details! Thank you
good job
I got problem, i forgot I dont know how but i forgot to screw down injector 1. At begining while ignition was on i heared ticking noise from one than i started a car idle was rough and then injector poped out. Than i screwd back on and still bad idle. Should i change the o ring again on injector 1
Try it, but it should be okay tho.
Hi, I'm planing on doing this job on my v40 d2, is it a problem if I can't clean the injector hols as good as You did, and those cooper washers do they stay fixed on the injector or can they fall,. One more question, what is the procedure once you put it all back together, I guess the fuel system needs to charge, because there is air in the system.
Thank You,
Hello from Croatia
Ivan
Hello Ivan,
Obviously the best would be if you could clean the injector holes. The important part is that the hole surface is as clean as you can get. If you use new washers they probably will fall off from the injector tips. I used Vaseline, put a tiny bit onto the washer and then I put the washer onto the injector nozzle.
Well,when I put everything back together I just started it up and it fired up on the first attempt. Although, you can cycle the ignition a few times before starting up and that should prime the fuel pump. Or maybe use a scan tool and prime the pump with it. But as I wrote, I just started the car up and it was working.
@@MrNiceGuy94 Thank You for the fast answer, another question, I'm thinking of making an diy adapter for removing injectors, do You know, what thread size and pitch are the injectors threads, or what's the tool nut size, by my knowing 17mm nut gets You a 10mm bolt with 1,5 mm thread pitch, but I know that can't be the case all the time. And to point out, Your videos are a confidence booster, and I 'm grateful that You are sharing Your knowledge, experience and expertise.
Thank You!
Thanks for your nice words. Unfortunately I don't know the thread and the pitch size, however I can link you the tool I used, it has different adaptors, I think it was around £30-40.
@@MrNiceGuy94 Thank You, please share the link.
@@ivan_zeger 14 Piece Injection Puller Tool Bosch Delphi Deso Siemens Diesel Injector Remover amzn.eu/d/0tSASh6