You do a pretty good job on the explanation side of how it all works, the best I have found on YT. You should reshoot so we can the areas and details you describe.
If the safety cable is pulled out, it may or may not break the cable, but their should be no damage to the assembly other than the cable, which is easy to replace. If the cable is pulled for whatever reason- you should be able to reset the assembly and continue on, you just need to release the lock under the brake assembly. I’d suggest you view other videos about how these work, as someone sold you a bridge as to all the repair cost you endured.,
That other piece attached to the cable that contains your coupler locking pin is a brake lockout for the surge coupler. Now that you have a brand new coupler and a 5 pin flat, that has the reverse signal, it's a non-issue. Others like myself, who's trailer plug is only a 4 way flat, have to get out and insert that lockout tab in the brake lockout bracket which sits just behind the front roller. It can be a real PITA not only to remember to put in anytime you want to back up anything with a slight grade, but also to remember to remove so you're not driving down the road with your surge brakes locked out if you can even get the thing to stay in, in the first place, as they're suppose to self-eject, which they tend to do even when you're backing up. I bought a magnetic one that's worked great, but unlike the chinsy one that comes with those couplers, I do actually have to remember to remove it or I'll have no surge brakes. Also worth noting is the breakaway cable should not be attached to the safety chains, but as you said, but to your hitch's chain bracket. An easy way to keep that thing in place is to remove the 'S' link that's at the end of that cable and put a carabiner in it's place, then you just clip onto the chain bracket.
i was told that a lot of these trailers also have free Reverse pads,, which are slightly tapered so that they physically cant engage the brakes when moving in reverse. the problem is, how does one know which type they have?
I’d love to love your video, and I really like the content, BUT I cant see most of what you’re intending to shoot. Your camera is not getting the subject or your comments (like the lockout pin, etc). This would be good if I had the visual, but you’re focusing on the boat in the background and not the brake actuator and its components. I hope this helps.
The break away cable: I have seen two different hitch balls, broken. They weren’t mine and both looked like a manufacturing defect. (At least one was made in China.)
Dude... sideways video? I'm watching on a big tv and your video only shows a wide picture of your nose down the middle of the screen... Maybe I can just listen without looking at the screen.... nope, can't do it. Thanks for trying though!
![[TH] VCT Pacific Stage 2 - Playoffs Day 1 // GEN vs RRQ | TLN vs TS](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JhkzKOhvOps/mqdefault.jpg)
You do a pretty good job on the explanation side of how it all works, the best I have found on YT. You should reshoot so we can the areas and details you describe.
The guy I bought my boat from said "the boat doesn't need transom tie downs because the boat is heavy and won't move".
Really good info……never knew about reverse.
If the safety cable is pulled out, it may or may not break the cable, but their should be no damage to the assembly other than the cable, which is easy to replace. If the cable is pulled for whatever reason- you should be able to reset the assembly and continue on, you just need to release the lock under the brake assembly. I’d suggest you view other videos about how these work, as someone sold you a bridge as to all the repair cost you endured.,
That other piece attached to the cable that contains your coupler locking pin is a brake lockout for the surge coupler. Now that you have a brand new coupler and a 5 pin flat, that has the reverse signal, it's a non-issue. Others like myself, who's trailer plug is only a 4 way flat, have to get out and insert that lockout tab in the brake lockout bracket which sits just behind the front roller. It can be a real PITA not only to remember to put in anytime you want to back up anything with a slight grade, but also to remember to remove so you're not driving down the road with your surge brakes locked out if you can even get the thing to stay in, in the first place, as they're suppose to self-eject, which they tend to do even when you're backing up. I bought a magnetic one that's worked great, but unlike the chinsy one that comes with those couplers, I do actually have to remember to remove it or I'll have no surge brakes. Also worth noting is the breakaway cable should not be attached to the safety chains, but as you said, but to your hitch's chain bracket. An easy way to keep that thing in place is to remove the 'S' link that's at the end of that cable and put a carabiner in it's place, then you just clip onto the chain bracket.
Love the idea of using a caribener for the breakaway cable
@@MikeRathgeber it wasn’t my idea, but it works great.
Great video
i was told that a lot of these trailers also have free Reverse pads,, which are slightly tapered so that they physically cant engage the brakes when moving in reverse. the problem is, how does one know which type they have?
Long story short at the end of the day this guy forgot to take out his safety cable, drove away and f…., things up 😮
I’d love to love your video, and I really like the content, BUT I cant see most of what you’re intending to shoot. Your camera is not getting the subject or your comments (like the lockout pin, etc). This would be good if I had the visual, but you’re focusing on the boat in the background and not the brake actuator and its components. I hope this helps.
The break away cable: I have seen two different hitch balls, broken. They weren’t mine and both looked like a manufacturing defect. (At least one was made in China.)
Wow never seen that but I know anything can happen
Good to know
Dude... sideways video?
I'm watching on a big tv and your video only shows a wide picture of your nose down the middle of the screen...
Maybe I can just listen without looking at the screen.... nope, can't do it.
Thanks for trying though!
You need a camera person. Plus you got off subject!
your no Francis Ford Copula with that cinematography