I did the same to my 2006 Tacoma which had the P0420 code for several years. Dumped a gallon of lacquer thinner in my tank and the code disappeared. 10k miles later and the CEL is still off and zero ill effects from doing it. Saved me thousands of dollars.
Awesome! Glad to hear that. It's always so nice to save thousands of dollars. If these converters are still physically intact, in theory, they should work for a long time as long as they aren't too dirty or clogged, I'm a huge fan of using what you have if works. Hence I drive 20 and 30 year old cars. Thanks for watching man.
@Benefits-ix9jy it runs smoother but I have also been chasing the evap problem for a while, so I'm getting around 20, it's also hard to say because of using AC sometimes and the stop n go driving I do...I'm thinking once I figure out the evap situation that will help. It did finally give me a code related to that so I'm going to be working to solve that here in the next week or so.
Thank you for the update. It sure beats replacing the cat. I use the AT205 reseal on rubber bushings to get a bit of extra life out of them and stop squeaks. Some of Scotty's suggestions are great money savers for old cars. I don't trust his ATS 505 snake oil from Bernie in Albuquerque though. Lol.
Hey, AT205 is great for rubber like that...heard about that from SK too...but if it's good it's good if people want to hate it that's on them...I've used to great success on a number of different applications through the years. Only problem is the price lol
Lacquer thinner is Naphtha. Naphtha is a major component of commercial catalytic converter cleaners. All anyone needs to do is look up the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) showing a breakdown of the products constituents if it is not on the label, (here in Australia anyway). Therefore Naphtha can be a cheaper alternative to commercial CC cleaners.
I am a chemist, worked on lacquers and lacquer thinner formulations in USA. Naphta is mineral spirits, and they can be one of the major components in lacquer thinner. But lacquer thinners are designed to dissolve Nitrocellulose to make "furniture finish lacquer". So lacquer thinners also contain some strong chemical solvents like n Butyl Acetate, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, isopropanol, Butyl Cellosolve, Toluene, Xylene and more but generally no Acetone. Naphtha by itself will not qualify as lacquer thinner in USA because you cannot dissolve nitrocellulose in it. However, Naphtha can be a "Varnish Thinner" to make furniture finish varnish. But the quality of finish is much inferior.
Remember to run along all the hoses with the car running feeling for any air leaks in the lines, I found one in mine and it cleared the code. If you use the thinner run it the same day, 1/4 tank high rpm until the gas light comes on then get new gas and you will be good, putting in your car having it sit for a week, while you run it through is not the best idea. .
check the composition of your lacquer thinner. it's mostly toluene. check some of the fuel system cleaners used for cleaning injector rails. they're mostly naptha and toluene.
Try this (I have w/success); if you're lucky, unbolt the converter & dump a quart or two back & forth (having a bucket to catch the fluid from the other end) a few times through the pipe. Had approx. 200k miles @ that time, passed smog & code disappeared... save a penny👍. "tried & true 👌"
The only issue i can think of is the the membrane in fuel pressure regulator, in other countries that Lacquer Thinner is hard to find, people might think just go ahead and go to near paint shop and get any "paint thinner" and do this. which is a BIG NO NO. when the fuel pressure regulator goes you will end up with rich condition (Negative fuel trim) and foul up your spark plugs, and pistons, make the cat even worst that what it is. Another thing, If you got an easy access 4 cylinder engine, with the cat in front, just get that sucker out submerge it in cleaner leave it a day blow it dry and install it again. you are good to go. Doing this might be better for a v6-8 when one cat is tangled up behind the rear bank and its too much of a hassle to get it out. Also you mentioned Evap, if the valve is leaking you got fuel vapors or air (depending on conditions) going in messing up fuel trim all over the place. contributing to cat problem. i had similar experience, for some odd reason plugging my evap shut made mine run richer Very strange, decided to replace the valve and problem solved, don't forget to change oil btw when the leak is too bad oil gets contaminated by fuel.
I just have to put in my 2 cents. Scotty has been a mechanic since before almost all of you here were born. He started on TV in the early 60,S doing a short feature spot on a new york station once a week ( I believe).
I'm sure he's picked up a lot of info over the years, and he has a super entertaining channel either way, as far as mechanical advise goes, as with anything people should exercise their ability to think for themselves and use the research tools that are available to us all. Thanks for your 2 cents.
Acetone will happily dissolve your fuel system, lacquer thinner is way less angry. I had some varnished up rubber carb bits in my hand, poured acetone over them and they completely dissolved. One thing that you can track, one of the other modes of that scanner will give you the scope view of your downstream. Hey, either way, drive the wheels off it! Pick up a resistor for your blower :)
Thanks for the comment man...that's solid info, I have discovered the little graph view of the sensors...and yea I definitely need to pick up a resistor lol
Lacquer Thinner is an oil product, good that it worked so far. They use Acetone and Kerosene in CataClean which is actually stronger and worse on seals. If the lacquer worked then that is the easier softer way on your fuel system. Acetone will eat through floors. If I ever have that problem I will do Scotty's method also.
@@drivingdaily582 Thinking about it some Lacquer Thinners use Acetone as part of it and so does CataClean so I would think it would be no different than using CataClean. Many people have had great success with CataClean.
@dimitriouchemistry2215 I think you're right, I probably wouldn't let it sit in the system long though still, better to go ahead and drive it out in my opinion. Have a great day.
I’ve done the same thing to my 2000 Mazda protégé it works great but before you do anything, you might want to take out your first O2 sensor out and probe the catalytic converter first, before you do anything because you never know your catalytic converter can be disintegrated because of the wear and tear age of the vehicle as well
Maybe try Seafoam spray, directly in the intake. It's like $12 a can but has cleaned multiple of my vehicles over the years. You can see how effective or not it is by the smoke it makes, initially, after doing the proper procedure. 🙏🏽
It's not lacquer thinner you're supposed to use, it's pure Toluene. I must add it at every fill up because in my country gas sucks and doesn't have the rated octane, so I add two gallons to a 15-gallon tank to get it close to the 93 the car needs. As a side effect, the original cats are still in the car 17 years after I bought it. I don't know if it cleans them or not, but it helps with the octane. After all Toluene is one of the main components of gasoline, so it's not like you're adding something that wasn't supposed to be there.
@@drivingdaily582 Definitely somewhere in South America. most likely a socialist country by what he said. I'm from Uruguay and the gasoline needed additives to reach proper quality. I'm now in Canada so it isn't necessary but over there it definitely was.
@Haywood-Jablomie that's wild...I'm learning something new every day. Congratulations on being in a country where you don't have to put fuel additives in the gasoline for it to run properly.
I burned my house down doing this in 2019. Wish I could post a picture to show. Was running this through a 05 Taurus.. car caught fire.. spread to the house. It had been my late father’s car so I wasn’t wholly familiar. Perhaps melted a fuel 6:41 line or a fitting? We’ll never know.
Dang man! That sucks, sorry to hear about your house...thanks for sharing. Is there any chance it had a fuel leak to begin with? Also how long did you have it in the tank? Thanks again for sharing your experience
I don't think this method actually would clean the catalytic coverter(s). The acetone may have actually cleaned the fuel injectors a bit. A more accurate spray from the fuel injectors may allow a catalytic converter with reduced capacity to pass for a while longer.
We would have to look into the composition of the lacquer thinner and see what temps each component burns off at, compare that with engine temps, and cat temps and get a better idea of what's going on.
@flaggov6949 true, there are probably people far more qualified than me to do it but I would be glad to at least look at the known information and put together a hypothesis
Can Rustoleum Epoxy and Lacquer Thinner be used instead of Clean Strip?I I just found out that the Rustoleum has more Acetone than Clean Strip but has anyone used the Rustoleum brand?
I may have already mentioned this in one of your other videos, but I could be mistaken. You can't clear evap codes. You can turn the check engine light off but the code will still be there. When you clear evap codes, all you are doing is putting in a request to clear them with your PCM. The PCM takes your request, turns the light off and converts the pending evap codes to permanent codes. Not all scan tools can read permanent codes, but they're there. They remain permanent until the PCM can confirm that the fault in the system was actually repaired. If so, the PCM clears the codes, otherwise they get relisted as pending. All of this was done because they had too many people clearing codes right before they brought their cars in for inspection. If the check engine light is off but there are still permanent codes in the system, you'll still fail the inspection. Also, in case you haven't figured it out yet, Scotty Kilmer is not a mechanic. He's an actor that makes money from youtube videos. When was the last time you saw him diagnose a problem? All he does test drive the car, scan it for codes and guess.
@AT-wl9yq gotcha, and I understand what you're saying buddy. That's one reason in this video I say look, you might as well not even clear the code, cause it's probably better to just let the live data run it's course if there is a difference it will take effect eventually. It still has to go through the Diagnostic course if you clear the codes, if there is no real fix the computer is gonna let you know...if there is a fix, it will also let you know, and you can verify in a case like this by looking at tge signals coming from the sensors and see the change.
The inspectors are looking for all the monitors to be "set" or "ready" with the CEL off in order to pass inspection. These monitors get reset every time the codes are cleared and take a certain type of driving condition and protocol to be set again. That's why you here the "drive the vehicle for 50 miles" statement after codes are cleared before you go to the inspector. There are about 6 to 10 monitors depending on the vehicle. All but one needs to be set in order to pass. The vehicle will pass with pending or permanent codes stored as long as the light is functional and off. They can do a quick bulb check in KOEO mode to see if the CEL actually operates. Active codes are what turns the light on.
@@M4sterT3ch that's a great explanation, I think people like to try and overcomplicate this process for whatever reason. Maybe to try to sound smart or maybe they are use to making money on people who don't know any better I'm not sure. Thanks for the comment.
What made the light go on in the first place? If it is burning oil and that hasn't been corrected then you can expect the cat to foul again - which I'm sure you know....
Oh yea, of course, we are talking about a vehicle with 270k miles that I paid 800 dollars for...how long did it take to build up to this point? I'm not sure, in the first video I mention that it had been running a missfire fir a time, which I tracked down and fixed ... how much did that contribute? Some I'm sure...but thats fixed now...lots of factors...it is what it is, for a car like this sometimes people are just looking to keep it driving for a while and avoid spending hundreds of dollars at a time or thousands to fix it...but with the missfire gone, and this seems to have cleared to cat enough to be within spec, and likely might have helped clean the injectors...the car is running good so I will just happily keep on running the miles up.
Scotty is not a mechanic. He earned those comments. When actual mechanics see his advice. its hard to not say anything. A lot of his recommendations can damage your vehicle, cause safety issues or cost you a lot of money. The easiest way to build a youtube channel is by telling people what they want to hear. That's all he's doing. Some of his mistakes are so basic, that its impossible for someone with 50 years experience to make them.
P0420 can come and go as the cat is becoming less efficient and as fuel quality varies and combustion efficiency varies. Unless there is a documented test regimen to show how this actually works, it's always going to be hit or miss, I think.
I can agree with that, there are a couple issues with this car one I fixed and more I'm going to fix in the near future that could have largely contributed to this particular situation, I'm interested to know exactly how this works, whether the unburned parts of the lacquer thinner are somehow burning in the cat in a way that makes the buildup on the substrate ash or what is going on, anyway, theres something to it, Im done testing it for now, but will continue to look into the how when it comes to the results, btw cel still out. Thanks for your comment.
CLEAR THE CODE WITH MY AUTEL TESTER, FILL FUEL TANK AT HALF, PUT A GALLON OF LACQUER THINNER AND HIT THE HIGHWAY FOR 225 KM ON HIGHWAY. AS SOON AS I GOT BACK TO CITY THE SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT RE-APPEARRED. WILL TRY BRAND NEW SNAKE OIL NEXT TIME.
Hi. Anybody did this in Honda 3.5 Engine? I have Honda Odyssey 2013 EXL. Want to try this but just afraid it doesn't make any other problem in it. It has p0420 and p0430 codes. Mechanic says change the Cats.
It would be a waste of money. Unless I missed something, you're dealing with a P0420. Its not even an evap code. Cats are part of the emissions system and a gas cap is part of the evaporative emissions system. Completely different systems. One is for your exhaust and the other is for fumes in your gas tank. You only replace a gas cap for a leak in the evap system. And you'll get a code for it. Instead of replacing random parts, why not run an evap test on your scan tool? Its not 100% accurate, but its not going to cost anything and it can almost always give some useful information.
@AT-wl9yq I think you missed the reference altogether bud. I say what you're saying about the evap in the actual video that it is unrelated, then I made a joke about at-205 reseal on the gas cap for that, it's a Scotty Kilmer reference basically...thanks for the comment though.
i don't doubt that it cleaned the injectors as the car seems to run better now, however its been even more miles now and that code has not come back and everything is running smoothly. Thanks for the comment.
Nice, yea burning oil will definitely cause the issue much quicker, sounds like you've got it under control...some cars aren't worth putting thousands of dollars in but still give good service with minor issues.
If your videos are properly SEO then you will be found in the search results of the TH-cam search algorithm and thus your video views will gradually increase.
Dude... You spent over 30 minutes saying the same thing in three videos... "watch the previous videos for full context"??? YOU COVERED IT SEVERAL TIMES IN THIS VIDEO! Delete the previous 2 videos. I wonder why you have 1k subscribers.
@sheldon3911 the videos together show how the process looks over time, and we covered the ins and outs and possible concerns thoroughly so that anyone who is thinking about doing this can consider them. That's called providing value, which is one of the main reasons I have subscribers. Thank you for pointing that out, for watching and for commenting. I hope you have a great day.
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I did the same to my 2006 Tacoma which had the P0420 code for several years. Dumped a gallon of lacquer thinner in my tank and the code disappeared. 10k miles later and the CEL is still off and zero ill effects from doing it. Saved me thousands of dollars.
Awesome! Glad to hear that. It's always so nice to save thousands of dollars. If these converters are still physically intact, in theory, they should work for a long time as long as they aren't too dirty or clogged, I'm a huge fan of using what you have if works. Hence I drive 20 and 30 year old cars. Thanks for watching man.
@@drivingdaily582 what about gas mileage . is it better?
@Benefits-ix9jy it runs smoother but I have also been chasing the evap problem for a while, so I'm getting around 20, it's also hard to say because of using AC sometimes and the stop n go driving I do...I'm thinking once I figure out the evap situation that will help. It did finally give me a code related to that so I'm going to be working to solve that here in the next week or so.
The 4.0 or 2.7? I have the 4.0 and have p0430 and p0420. Did it really work or just temporarily?
@@danielfiore8865 mine is still good
Thank you for the update. It sure beats replacing the cat. I use the AT205 reseal on rubber bushings to get a bit of extra life out of them and stop squeaks. Some of Scotty's suggestions are great money savers for old cars. I don't trust his ATS 505 snake oil from Bernie in Albuquerque though. Lol.
Hey, AT205 is great for rubber like that...heard about that from SK too...but if it's good it's good if people want to hate it that's on them...I've used to great success on a number of different applications through the years. Only problem is the price lol
Lacquer thinner is Naphtha. Naphtha is a major component of commercial catalytic converter cleaners. All anyone needs to do is look up the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) showing a breakdown of the products constituents if it is not on the label, (here in Australia anyway). Therefore Naphtha can be a cheaper alternative to commercial CC cleaners.
I am a chemist, worked on lacquers and lacquer thinner formulations in USA. Naphta is mineral spirits, and they can be one of the major components in lacquer thinner. But lacquer thinners are designed to dissolve Nitrocellulose to make "furniture finish lacquer". So lacquer thinners also contain some strong chemical solvents like n Butyl Acetate, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, isopropanol, Butyl Cellosolve, Toluene, Xylene and more but generally no Acetone. Naphtha by itself will not qualify as lacquer thinner in USA because you cannot dissolve nitrocellulose in it. However, Naphtha can be a "Varnish Thinner" to make furniture finish varnish. But the quality of finish is much inferior.
Remember to run along all the hoses with the car running feeling for any air leaks in the lines, I found one in mine and it cleared the code.
If you use the thinner run it the same day, 1/4 tank high rpm until the gas light comes on then get new gas and you will be good, putting in your car having it sit for a week, while you run it through is not the best idea.
.
Why would you doubt Scotty Kilmer? He is an automotive god.
@@gfriedman99 lol
check the composition of your lacquer thinner. it's mostly toluene. check some of the fuel system cleaners used for cleaning injector rails. they're mostly naptha and toluene.
@@donoimdono2702 yup
Try this (I have w/success); if you're lucky, unbolt the converter & dump a quart or two back & forth (having a bucket to catch the fluid from the other end) a few times through the pipe. Had approx. 200k miles @ that time, passed smog & code disappeared... save a penny👍. "tried & true 👌"
The only issue i can think of is the the membrane in fuel pressure regulator, in other countries that Lacquer Thinner is hard to find, people might think just go ahead and go to near paint shop and get any "paint thinner" and do this. which is a BIG NO NO. when the fuel pressure regulator goes you will end up with rich condition (Negative fuel trim) and foul up your spark plugs, and pistons, make the cat even worst that what it is.
Another thing, If you got an easy access 4 cylinder engine, with the cat in front, just get that sucker out submerge it in cleaner leave it a day blow it dry and install it again. you are good to go.
Doing this might be better for a v6-8 when one cat is tangled up behind the rear bank and its too much of a hassle to get it out.
Also you mentioned Evap, if the valve is leaking you got fuel vapors or air (depending on conditions) going in messing up fuel trim all over the place. contributing to cat problem. i had similar experience, for some odd reason plugging my evap shut made mine run richer Very strange, decided to replace the valve and problem solved, don't forget to change oil btw when the leak is too bad oil gets contaminated by fuel.
@@renhylde great input
I'm glad it was a success. Enjoy your day!
@@Collectorholic you as well!
I just have to put in my 2 cents. Scotty has been a mechanic since before almost all of you here were born. He started on TV in the early 60,S doing a short feature spot on a new york station once a week ( I believe).
I'm sure he's picked up a lot of info over the years, and he has a super entertaining channel either way, as far as mechanical advise goes, as with anything people should exercise their ability to think for themselves and use the research tools that are available to us all. Thanks for your 2 cents.
Acetone will happily dissolve your fuel system, lacquer thinner is way less angry. I had some varnished up rubber carb bits in my hand, poured acetone over them and they completely dissolved. One thing that you can track, one of the other modes of that scanner will give you the scope view of your downstream. Hey, either way, drive the wheels off it! Pick up a resistor for your blower :)
Thanks for the comment man...that's solid info, I have discovered the little graph view of the sensors...and yea I definitely need to pick up a resistor lol
You mean a resistor for the o2 sensor?
@danielfiore8865 no for the blower motor so it can pick up all the different speed settings. Mine only works on high
@@danielfiore8865 No for the heater blower to get the speeds back.
Lacquer Thinner is an oil product, good that it worked so far. They use Acetone and Kerosene in CataClean which is actually stronger and worse on seals. If the lacquer worked then that is the easier softer way on your fuel system. Acetone will eat through floors. If I ever have that problem I will do Scotty's method also.
Interesting take
@@drivingdaily582 Thinking about it some Lacquer Thinners use Acetone as part of it and so does CataClean so I would think it would be no different than using CataClean. Many people have had great success with CataClean.
Laquer thinner appears to have the same ingredients as cataclean. Eo, if laquer thinner was dangerous to the fuel system, then so would cataclean be.
@dimitriouchemistry2215 I think you're right, I probably wouldn't let it sit in the system long though still, better to go ahead and drive it out in my opinion. Have a great day.
@drivingdaily582 you too!
It worked🎉🎉🎉👌🙌! Hope your engine is tip top post the lacquer!
Everything seems good...for a car with 272k miles on it...
@@drivingdaily582 thats amazing👌🙌!
Quite interesting how such a mundane and little thought of item can help with those codes.
@@lonestargamerdad right!
I’ve done the same thing to my 2000 Mazda protégé it works great but before you do anything, you might want to take out your first O2 sensor out and probe the catalytic converter first, before you do anything because you never know your catalytic converter can be disintegrated because of the wear and tear age of the vehicle as well
@@wilyceyote solid comment 👍
Maybe try Seafoam spray, directly in the intake. It's like $12 a can but has cleaned multiple of my vehicles over the years. You can see how effective or not it is by the smoke it makes, initially, after doing the proper procedure. 🙏🏽
@@imfrom210texas the light is still out
It's not lacquer thinner you're supposed to use, it's pure Toluene. I must add it at every fill up because in my country gas sucks and doesn't have the rated octane, so I add two gallons to a 15-gallon tank to get it close to the 93 the car needs. As a side effect, the original cats are still in the car 17 years after I bought it. I don't know if it cleans them or not, but it helps with the octane. After all Toluene is one of the main components of gasoline, so it's not like you're adding something that wasn't supposed to be there.
Thanks for your input, if you don't mind me asking what country are you in?
@@drivingdaily582 Definitely somewhere in South America. most likely a socialist country by what he said. I'm from Uruguay and the gasoline needed additives to reach proper quality. I'm now in Canada so it isn't necessary but over there it definitely was.
@Haywood-Jablomie that's wild...I'm learning something new every day. Congratulations on being in a country where you don't have to put fuel additives in the gasoline for it to run properly.
@@drivingdaily582 Canada is quickly getting to that point. I'll need to move again soon. Lol
@@Haywood-Jablomie they are trying to do it here in the US even, it's sad to see
Hello my friend 😃! Nice method and very interesting and detailed video 👍. Excellent. Have a nice day
@@salvatoremertoli6493 Thanks🙏 bro, have a great day as well 🤜🤛
Do you think I can try this method in a 2006 Civic Hybrid?
Great video!! 👍🏻
I have subscribed to your channel 🙏🏻
Thanks, that's awesome! Welcome to the channel. 👍
I burned my house down doing this in 2019. Wish I could post a picture to show. Was running this through a 05 Taurus.. car caught fire.. spread to the house. It had been my late father’s car so I wasn’t wholly familiar. Perhaps melted a fuel 6:41 line or a fitting? We’ll never know.
Dang man! That sucks, sorry to hear about your house...thanks for sharing. Is there any chance it had a fuel leak to begin with? Also how long did you have it in the tank? Thanks again for sharing your experience
Good video and good content my friend 😊👍
@@dajbers Thanks for the comment 🤜🤛
@@drivingdaily582 😊👍
I don't think this method actually would clean the catalytic coverter(s). The acetone may have actually cleaned the fuel injectors a bit. A more accurate spray from the fuel injectors may allow a catalytic converter with reduced capacity to pass for a while longer.
We would have to look into the composition of the lacquer thinner and see what temps each component burns off at, compare that with engine temps, and cat temps and get a better idea of what's going on.
@@drivingdaily582Sounds like an idea for a video 😊.
@flaggov6949 true, there are probably people far more qualified than me to do it but I would be glad to at least look at the known information and put together a hypothesis
Looks great, Thanks for the sweet video, my friend. Take care and wish you a wonderful weekend.😺😺❤️❤️
Thanks for watching
Can Rustoleum Epoxy and Lacquer Thinner be used instead of Clean Strip?I
I just found out that the Rustoleum has more Acetone than Clean Strip but has anyone used the Rustoleum brand?
Interesting
I may have already mentioned this in one of your other videos, but I could be mistaken. You can't clear evap codes. You can turn the check engine light off but the code will still be there. When you clear evap codes, all you are doing is putting in a request to clear them with your PCM. The PCM takes your request, turns the light off and converts the pending evap codes to permanent codes. Not all scan tools can read permanent codes, but they're there. They remain permanent until the PCM can confirm that the fault in the system was actually repaired. If so, the PCM clears the codes, otherwise they get relisted as pending. All of this was done because they had too many people clearing codes right before they brought their cars in for inspection. If the check engine light is off but there are still permanent codes in the system, you'll still fail the inspection.
Also, in case you haven't figured it out yet, Scotty Kilmer is not a mechanic. He's an actor that makes money from youtube videos. When was the last time you saw him diagnose a problem? All he does test drive the car, scan it for codes and guess.
I'm not dealing with anything to do with EVAP system in ANY of these videos.
@@drivingdaily582 Sorry. I meant to say emissions, so it applies to both evap and exhaust emissions.
@AT-wl9yq gotcha, and I understand what you're saying buddy. That's one reason in this video I say look, you might as well not even clear the code, cause it's probably better to just let the live data run it's course if there is a difference it will take effect eventually. It still has to go through the Diagnostic course if you clear the codes, if there is no real fix the computer is gonna let you know...if there is a fix, it will also let you know, and you can verify in a case like this by looking at tge signals coming from the sensors and see the change.
The inspectors are looking for all the monitors to be "set" or "ready" with the CEL off in order to pass inspection. These monitors get reset every time the codes are cleared and take a certain type of driving condition and protocol to be set again. That's why you here the "drive the vehicle for 50 miles" statement after codes are cleared before you go to the inspector. There are about 6 to 10 monitors depending on the vehicle. All but one needs to be set in order to pass. The vehicle will pass with pending or permanent codes stored as long as the light is functional and off. They can do a quick bulb check in KOEO mode to see if the CEL actually operates. Active codes are what turns the light on.
@@M4sterT3ch that's a great explanation, I think people like to try and overcomplicate this process for whatever reason. Maybe to try to sound smart or maybe they are use to making money on people who don't know any better I'm not sure. Thanks for the comment.
What made the light go on in the first place? If it is burning oil and that hasn't been corrected then you can expect the cat to foul again - which I'm sure you know....
Oh yea, of course, we are talking about a vehicle with 270k miles that I paid 800 dollars for...how long did it take to build up to this point? I'm not sure, in the first video I mention that it had been running a missfire fir a time, which I tracked down and fixed ... how much did that contribute? Some I'm sure...but thats fixed now...lots of factors...it is what it is, for a car like this sometimes people are just looking to keep it driving for a while and avoid spending hundreds of dollars at a time or thousands to fix it...but with the missfire gone, and this seems to have cleared to cat enough to be within spec, and likely might have helped clean the injectors...the car is running good so I will just happily keep on running the miles up.
@@drivingdaily582 Thanks. Good you found a possible culprit.
Blower motor resistor to fix ac issue.
@@josh47807 yes 👍
Man, whats up with all those comments hating on good ol scotty
Some people seem to be obsessed with it, I guess it's like Scotty Kilmer Derangement Syndrome or something lol
It's like Alfred said "Some just want to watch the world burn"
Scotty is not a mechanic. He earned those comments. When actual mechanics see his advice. its hard to not say anything. A lot of his recommendations can damage your vehicle, cause safety issues or cost you a lot of money. The easiest way to build a youtube channel is by telling people what they want to hear. That's all he's doing. Some of his mistakes are so basic, that its impossible for someone with 50 years experience to make them.
@@AT-wl9yq saying scotty is not a mecanic is like saying gordon ramsay is not a chef
P0420 can come and go as the cat is becoming less efficient and as fuel quality varies and combustion efficiency varies. Unless there is a documented test regimen to show how this actually works, it's always going to be hit or miss, I think.
I can agree with that, there are a couple issues with this car one I fixed and more I'm going to fix in the near future that could have largely contributed to this particular situation, I'm interested to know exactly how this works, whether the unburned parts of the lacquer thinner are somehow burning in the cat in a way that makes the buildup on the substrate ash or what is going on, anyway, theres something to it, Im done testing it for now, but will continue to look into the how when it comes to the results, btw cel still out. Thanks for your comment.
agreed, mine goes off and on all the time because of various grades of fuel at different stations, kinda wild
CLEAR THE CODE WITH MY AUTEL TESTER, FILL FUEL TANK AT HALF, PUT A GALLON OF LACQUER THINNER AND HIT THE HIGHWAY FOR 225 KM ON HIGHWAY. AS SOON AS I GOT BACK TO CITY THE SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT RE-APPEARRED. WILL TRY BRAND NEW SNAKE OIL NEXT TIME.
I never got why people theink Scotty is so great, Dude reminds me of a Time Share salesman.
Hi.
Anybody did this in Honda 3.5 Engine?
I have Honda Odyssey 2013 EXL. Want to try this but just afraid it doesn't make any other problem in it.
It has p0420 and p0430 codes. Mechanic says change the Cats.
I did it on my 2011 Honda Pilot last month. The engine light initially stayed on, but after about two weeks or so the engine light turned off.
Nice sharing 👍95
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Absolutely!
Buy a new factory fuel cap and see as that is so easy and not that expensive.
For sure
It would be a waste of money. Unless I missed something, you're dealing with a P0420. Its not even an evap code. Cats are part of the emissions system and a gas cap is part of the evaporative emissions system. Completely different systems. One is for your exhaust and the other is for fumes in your gas tank. You only replace a gas cap for a leak in the evap system. And you'll get a code for it.
Instead of replacing random parts, why not run an evap test on your scan tool? Its not 100% accurate, but its not going to cost anything and it can almost always give some useful information.
@AT-wl9yq I think you missed the reference altogether bud. I say what you're saying about the evap in the actual video that it is unrelated, then I made a joke about at-205 reseal on the gas cap for that, it's a Scotty Kilmer reference basically...thanks for the comment though.
Glad that worked for you!
Thanks for watching 😎
Nice video! 👍🏼
🙏thanks
@@drivingdaily582 You’re welcome
EXCELLENT🤲🏽👍🏽🤠
@@forgottenheart4947 🙏
It did not work for me. I have a kia Soul 2015 with code P0420
@@JoseDiaz-yu2in thanks for the input. Did you check your sensor activity?
💪💪💪
Thanks brother
@@drivingdaily582 🤜🤛💯
you probably had a slightly plugged injector , you cleaned it and it will eventually come back
i don't doubt that it cleaned the injectors as the car seems to run better now, however its been even more miles now and that code has not come back and everything is running smoothly. Thanks for the comment.
It worked on my 2011 Ford Taurus. It burns so much oil, I have to clean the cats every few months.
Nice, yea burning oil will definitely cause the issue much quicker, sounds like you've got it under control...some cars aren't worth putting thousands of dollars in but still give good service with minor issues.
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Thank you
I dumped a gallon on my Lexus GS 350 2008, code is still there. We'll see what happens.
You dumped it ON the Lexus? Haha noooo
Cool❤
🙏 Thank you
Wow.
Kilmer is a hack. If he's right about something, it's a coincidence.
Dude... You spent over 30 minutes saying the same thing in three videos... "watch the previous videos for full context"??? YOU COVERED IT SEVERAL TIMES IN THIS VIDEO! Delete the previous 2 videos. I wonder why you have 1k subscribers.
@sheldon3911 the videos together show how the process looks over time, and we covered the ins and outs and possible concerns thoroughly so that anyone who is thinking about doing this can consider them. That's called providing value, which is one of the main reasons I have subscribers. Thank you for pointing that out, for watching and for commenting. I hope you have a great day.
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Looking forward to hearing from you. Best regards, Rezaul Bari
Thank you