Great work and (as always) great music! In my very long ago youth I received a ticket for excessive noise on my motorcycle, to prove I fixed it I stuffed both mufflers to the gills with steel wool and prayed the officer that had to sign off the ticket wouldn’t notice the little glowing sparks spewing out when I did the obligatory revving of the engine. He didn’t (or took pity on a long haired youth with no money)! Ah to be young again….
A neat trick to plug holes in sheet metal is to put a piece of copper behind the hole and weld. Weld wont stick to copper, and it will take a bit of heat from the metal, so u dont burn trough as much. nice job!
So, after all, a positive result. That's good. The ideal way to reduce noise is to cool down the exhaust gases as much as possible. (reduce volume) That's why on some boats they install water cooled exhausts. It's very effective. But on a car that would be a bit challenging to do :)
Well done, Adrian. If nothing, else, you proved your theory to be correct regarding the effects of properly designed baffles and I like your design logic. I expect that you picked up some horsepower, just not enough to be noticeable.
2:17 "To buy means to surrender!" Words to live by (if you're a machinist at any rate!) You know you've made an improvement on the muffler when the transmission whine ISN'T being drowned out by the exhaust noise. Let's face it. The Ford Model A was never and will never be a "stealth" car. Chickens quickly learn to take evasive action when you're 2 km away! Nice methodical approach to the problem and nice execution. I guess the one thing you can be sure of with a Model A is that you will never be short of things to do or try to improve.
Another great video, and very interesting. I've done a few exhaust modifications on modern cars like this. Your car definitely sounds better, and more refined now.
This is very interesting. I’m about restoring another vintage motorcycle and testing a few ideas for myself. I think this is something I can reuse in my project, also in the idea of taking the sound down to an acceptable level. It’s not about how it sound to others - it’s about how it sounds to you and how it sounded when it was originally made. Thanks for the inspiration tonight! 👍
@@johanu6481 The principle of holes along a tube with the end blocked off should work with any type of engine - it is still found in many mufflers today. To save space, they are put side by side today, instead of inline.
Was für ein großartiges Video wieder! Es war eine Freude, es anzusehen. Ich denke, deine Werkstatt verdient jetzt einen anständigen Schweißgerät, haha. Ich weiß, dass du auch ein Fan von Vintage-Werkzeugen bist, aber neue Schweißgeräte [natürlich Inverter-Schweißgeräte] sind deutlich besser als alte Transformator-Schweißgeräte. Ich habe mir den Parkside PSMG 200 gekauft, der für das, was er leistet, einen sehr attraktiven Preis hat (220€). Es ist so viel besser als das Elektrodenschweißen.
Wow, incredible work. You need to get second rusted out Model A and restore from bumper to bumper. Maybe a mail truck? Really liked this episode. I had no idea that the new mufflers sounded so different.
Adrian, Great video and a lot of hard work. The way mufflers work is through a process of constructive and destructive interference. They are actually tuned like a musical instrument. One side note, I would recommend going back to the original motor mounts. You will get a lot of vibration from the wrong motor mounts. The original motor mounts form another cross member to the frame. It stiffens up the frame.
I've only driven one car with original engine mounts so far, and it vibrated worse than mine (to the point that the gas pedal would make your foot cramp). I know, could be a million other things, but it looked like a properly built car and engine to me.
Another great project. As far as I'm aware the new muffler I fitted to my 30 Coupe is made to the original spec (as that was stated by the manufacturer). You definitely reduced the sound 😊 I'm in the UK
You are an inspiration! The exhaust on my Austin Swallow is noisy - probably made in the same modern factory as yours came from that deliberately makes old car parts to a different specification to the originals. Be interested to hear if the fuel consumption has improved. Thanks for sharing, greetings from the UK!
I'm sure the basic principle could also be used for an Austin exhaust - get a suitably sized piece of pipe, drill holes into it and add baffles. In my opinion, the exact numbers and spacing of both isn't really critical.
I notice now the differential whine is more prominent (sorry for the migraine). I actually quite like hearing that. It lets you know something is working.
I have an Aries and it’s quiet, for sure. You may not need the inner steel wool with the original design as you are building it. Also, the wool (steel or glass) will deteriorate over time, causing difficulty.
I could imagine the wool acting as a dampener so the muffler itself won't turn into a noise source. I might experiment with wrapping the muffler's outside in fiber wool and see if that does something.
Nice work. Definitely a noticeable difference in sound level. Have you thought about extending the tail pipe to where it ends at the rear bumper instead of under the car? That may help quiet it down some too.
It was that way when I got it. I decided to chop it down to original length however as it made removal of the exhaust without taking the rear axle out impossible - and vice versa, too.
Very good work, maybe to lessen exhaust vibration, hang the pipe clamp bracket off the chassis mount with an in between braided rubber strip (if you haven’t already done so) Also, I know it’s not original, but extending the end of the exhaust pipe to the rear bumper should make things quieter and of course, release gases beyond the car bodywork. Excellent engine overhaul,with counterbalanced crankshaft, adjustable tappets and the essential carburettor job, etc. but one thing these motors never had was a harmonic balanced front crankshaft pulley. I no longer own Model A’s but have adapted harmonic pulley on 1931-36 Austin 12-6 (1711cc 15.9hp) to relieve torsional crankshaft twist- maybe not so important on a 4cyl ?? I love originality but employ improvements ‘as one does’. I must also compliment your excellent command of English.
Do you think you could also be experiencing a lot of road noise? It's quite incredible how much noise comes into the cab from the tires, wind, and traffic. I have my doubts as to whether or not you'll actually achieve the noise levels you're looking for. Just think of how much noise is translating through the floor boards, gaps in the windows and doors, the thin firewall... I'm very interested to see what you ultimately achieve!
The problem is the engine itself. I don't even need to be driving to make it loud inside the cabin - a quick tap on the throttle is all it takes. The ultimate solution would be a different motor - or a different car.
Gute Arbeit, ich denke für den Spaßfaktor ist der alte Sound besser. Ich gehe aber stark davon aus, das dieser auf Dauer nervt. Vielleicht hilft es ja den Schalldämpfer oder auch komplett inkl. den Rohren mit Hitzeschutzband / Thermoband zu umwickeln?!
Btw, now that you mention not being able to cancel out vibrations of the engine at the end. You actually can cancel out most of the vibrations. But it might be that your float-a-motor isn't properly tuned. The instructions on it are pretty unclear and unreliable. Properly installed it should work like this: The engine should rest on the front, and hang on the new rear mount on top of the universal joint. The side mounts should barely contribute to the holding up of the motor, and should mainly be there to prevent the side to side rocking of the engine. and absorb the rotational energy. The rubbers might be too tall for those. But should also not be too soft, because they they absorb less, and start working more like springs. Also make sure your engine, in rest mode, is straight aligned (a bit angled downwards, with the drive line towards the differential. if this isn't straight, you'll get some vibration from a non-aligned universal joint. Another important sound cue is the correct carb tuning. you want the best mixing of air and fuel, for the most uniform combustion, reducing noise and vibrations. beware, this is a deep rabbit hole, few actually know what they are talking about.
I've tried various tightness settings of the engine mounts, this is about the best I can get them. It's NOT driveshaft vibration, the noise level is the same if I just hit the throttle with the engine in neutral.
@@AstraWerke Joey and I should really come visit some time, he got his incredibly quiet and low on vibration, and he has a high compression head which would make it worse.
@@DrTheRich That'd be interesting, haven't experienced a quiet model A yet. Compression doesn't affect smoothness for the most part though, as it's the carburetter that determines the amount of air admitted into the cylinders. So, unless you're going full throttle, there isn't any noticeable difference, only on a Diesel.
@AstraWerke I feel it very possible to spend enormous amounts of time on very minimal overall effect. Not saying you aren't doing this, but be sure to check your time engagement against the outcome. I'd hate to see you spend a huge amount of time only to obtain a very negligible result. These cars weren't known for luxury after all.
After changing the exhaust flow characteristics so much with your modifications you should go through your carburetor adjustments again to make sure it’s not running too lean or rich.
In your --Before and After - sound takes -------- the after DOES sound quieter ----- Sounds Good ----- Curious --- what diameter rod were you using ------ sixty or seventy series electrode? ------- Thank You for another interesting video ----- Hope you have a Good Weekend -------- Rodney
Zum Glück die Mineralwolle vergessen... Das Zeug sorgt nur dafür, dass der Auspuff schneller durchrostet weil es Wasser wunderbar bindet und der Isoationsfaktor dafür sorgt, dass es nicht so schnell verdampft
Another interesting video. Certainly improved low speed exhaust noise but gear and diff whine must be a large part of the running noise going by the shots of you driving away. Have you done any research on modern car exhausts with respect to noise? Might be an interesting experiment to try some off the shelf mufflers if non originality is not too blasphemous an idea.
Diff whine is now the main noise between 30 and 40 mph - above that it's engine vibration. But yeah, at idle and low speeds, it did indeed make a big differnce. Modern mufflers are designed shockingly similar. The only difference is that the tubes are arranged side by side instead of one behind the other, to save room.
@@AstraWerke That's interesting and logical I suppose. Was just hoping some advanced engineering might have been applied in the last 100 years or so. Like you say mechanical noise is now your biggest issue, noise wise, which again is logical, tyre noise is the biggest issue on modern cars these days.
@@jefflormans5441 Well there are some fancy schmancy patents here and there, but they are mostly conjoined with exhaust cutouts, which I really don't need xD Actual development only happened with two stroke exhausts, where resonance has a key effect in combustion chamber filling and fuel atomization.
@ i’m very curious about them! and i know a video takes a lot to make but i would seriously appreciate some content about the ones that where made for the model A (mechanism wiring switches etc)
@@AstraWerke i would most certainly agree!! they would be perfect for your car as like i said they came stock from the factory with them in German! i’ll be following closely and waiting to see more about them! (if you do decide to find some
Hi, warum hast Du den die Dämmwolle schlussendlich nicht in den Schalldämpfer? Das hätte zur Geräuschminderung noch einiges gebracht und ist ja eigentlich das entscheidende bei einem Absorptionsschalldämpfer.
Huh how can your engine still be so loud you have to drive in with earplugs, after rebuilding and balancing the engine??? Are you sure you did everything properly? Not having the same experience, but maybe i'm just deaf haha My engine isn't even properly rebuild, and what's more beautiful than the sound of a hard working model A engine... I don't even miss a radio when i'm driving... EDIT: A you're muffler wasn't up to snuff, that explains the difference...
There's about an hour-long video where I rebuild the engine and also show all the balancing I did. Maybe you find something I did wrong. But glancing at the size ratio of piston to crankshaft explains alot. In essence, the cabin becomes a giant subwoofer - it's not so loud on the outside, but inside, you get the full experience.
I see your problem. You are young and still have great hearing. Just give it time and you will catch up to the rest of us Model A guys. 👴
Bro you got skills with machinist and welding , giving you praise for that.
Great work and (as always) great music! In my very long ago youth I received a ticket for excessive noise on my motorcycle, to prove I fixed it I stuffed both mufflers to the gills with steel wool and prayed the officer that had to sign off the ticket wouldn’t notice the little glowing sparks spewing out when I did the obligatory revving of the engine. He didn’t (or took pity on a long haired youth with no money)! Ah to be young again….
A neat trick to plug holes in sheet metal is to put a piece of copper behind the hole and weld. Weld wont stick to copper, and it will take a bit of heat from the metal, so u dont burn trough as much. nice job!
Thanks for the hint, I appreciate it!
Brilliant ! Who ever thought of making your own muffler. please don't listen to the nay sayers, you have a inquisitive brain, keep doing what you're.
I love what you said about not surrendering to buying and make it yourself we Amercan"s need learn this again
I am old I love quiet model A’s to thank you so very kindly for this wonderful video friend
I will say you are a extremely intelligent man. Thank you for sharing this with us.
So, after all, a positive result. That's good.
The ideal way to reduce noise is to cool down the exhaust gases as much as possible. (reduce volume)
That's why on some boats they install water cooled exhausts. It's very effective.
But on a car that would be a bit challenging to do :)
Watercooled exhaust... Now that sounds like a high-end solution xD
The sound is so much better. I think it should sound like this, nice.
Well done, Adrian. If nothing, else, you proved your theory to be correct regarding the effects of properly designed baffles and I like your design logic. I expect that you picked up some horsepower, just not enough to be noticeable.
(9:00) That is the best handmade WW2 Browning machine guns I have seen for a Model A. Great work. LOL. 🥰
Lol could have a couldsnack with that fella
2:17 "To buy means to surrender!" Words to live by (if you're a machinist at any rate!)
You know you've made an improvement on the muffler when the transmission whine ISN'T being drowned out by the exhaust noise.
Let's face it. The Ford Model A was never and will never be a "stealth" car. Chickens quickly learn to take evasive action when you're 2 km away!
Nice methodical approach to the problem and nice execution. I guess the one thing you can be sure of with a Model A is that you will never be short of things to do or try to improve.
Well done! Well thought out and executed. Thank you for taking us along ~ Chuck
Well done! You have inspired me. I’ve looked for a OEM muffler for my 28 Durant M2. Waldron’s exhaust in the states. 👍
Another great video, and very interesting. I've done a few exhaust modifications on modern cars like this.
Your car definitely sounds better, and more refined now.
Sent a link to your video to Aries. I think he'll enjoy seeing your workmanship and ingenuity.
This is very interesting. I’m about restoring another vintage motorcycle and testing a few ideas for myself. I think this is something I can reuse in my project, also in the idea of taking the sound down to an acceptable level. It’s not about how it sound to others - it’s about how it sounds to you and how it sounded when it was originally made.
Thanks for the inspiration tonight! 👍
@@johanu6481 The principle of holes along a tube with the end blocked off should work with any type of engine - it is still found in many mufflers today. To save space, they are put side by side today, instead of inline.
Was für ein großartiges Video wieder! Es war eine Freude, es anzusehen. Ich denke, deine Werkstatt verdient jetzt einen anständigen Schweißgerät, haha. Ich weiß, dass du auch ein Fan von Vintage-Werkzeugen bist, aber neue Schweißgeräte [natürlich Inverter-Schweißgeräte] sind deutlich besser als alte Transformator-Schweißgeräte. Ich habe mir den Parkside PSMG 200 gekauft, der für das, was er leistet, einen sehr attraktiven Preis hat (220€). Es ist so viel besser als das Elektrodenschweißen.
Wow, incredible work. You need to get second rusted out Model A and restore from bumper to bumper. Maybe a mail truck? Really liked this episode. I had no idea that the new mufflers sounded so different.
I think I'd need to hire a 2nd person if I was to buy another Model A - this one's taking up all my free time already xD
Adrian,
Great video and a lot of hard work. The way mufflers work is through a process of constructive and destructive interference. They are actually tuned like a musical instrument. One side note, I would recommend going back to the original motor mounts. You will get a lot of vibration from the wrong motor mounts. The original motor mounts form another cross member to the frame. It stiffens up the frame.
I've only driven one car with original engine mounts so far, and it vibrated worse than mine (to the point that the gas pedal would make your foot cramp). I know, could be a million other things, but it looked like a properly built car and engine to me.
I love everything about this channel
Another great project. As far as I'm aware the new muffler I fitted to my 30 Coupe is made to the original spec (as that was stated by the manufacturer). You definitely reduced the sound 😊
I'm in the UK
Great video and works men ship as always!
You are an inspiration! The exhaust on my Austin Swallow is noisy - probably made in the same modern factory as yours came from that deliberately makes old car parts to a different specification to the originals.
Be interested to hear if the fuel consumption has improved.
Thanks for sharing, greetings from the UK!
I'm sure the basic principle could also be used for an Austin exhaust - get a suitably sized piece of pipe, drill holes into it and add baffles. In my opinion, the exact numbers and spacing of both isn't really critical.
In my opinion, it is your car, do as you please. I enjoy your videos
Now we need to visit the dyno test again.
für mich bist du rein richtiger künstler, klasse arbeit... 😉👏👏👏
(18:56) lol...cutting corners. He is a true American. 🤠
I notice now the differential whine is more prominent (sorry for the migraine). I actually quite like hearing that. It lets you know something is working.
Also lets you know something is worn ;P
I have an Aries and it’s quiet, for sure. You may not need the inner steel wool with the original design as you are building it. Also, the wool (steel or glass) will deteriorate over time, causing difficulty.
Yeah the wool seems to just asking for having a muffler full of rust powder in a decade...
I could imagine the wool acting as a dampener so the muffler itself won't turn into a noise source.
I might experiment with wrapping the muffler's outside in fiber wool and see if that does something.
job well done, it sounds nice
Muy bueno,siempre muy prolijos tus trabajos, saludos desde Argentina
Nice work. Definitely a noticeable difference in sound level. Have you thought about extending the tail pipe to where it ends at the rear bumper instead of under the car? That may help quiet it down some too.
It was that way when I got it. I decided to chop it down to original length however as it made removal of the exhaust without taking the rear axle out impossible - and vice versa, too.
Very good work, maybe to lessen exhaust vibration, hang the pipe clamp bracket off the chassis mount with an in between braided rubber strip (if you haven’t already done so) Also, I know it’s not original, but extending the end of the exhaust pipe to the rear bumper should make things quieter and of course, release gases beyond the car bodywork. Excellent engine overhaul,with counterbalanced crankshaft, adjustable tappets and the essential carburettor job, etc. but one thing these motors never had was a harmonic balanced front crankshaft pulley. I no longer own Model A’s but have adapted harmonic pulley on 1931-36 Austin 12-6 (1711cc 15.9hp) to relieve torsional crankshaft twist- maybe not so important on a 4cyl ?? I love originality but employ improvements ‘as one does’. I must also compliment your excellent command of English.
Do you think you could also be experiencing a lot of road noise? It's quite incredible how much noise comes into the cab from the tires, wind, and traffic. I have my doubts as to whether or not you'll actually achieve the noise levels you're looking for. Just think of how much noise is translating through the floor boards, gaps in the windows and doors, the thin firewall... I'm very interested to see what you ultimately achieve!
The problem is the engine itself. I don't even need to be driving to make it loud inside the cabin - a quick tap on the throttle is all it takes.
The ultimate solution would be a different motor - or a different car.
Gute Arbeit, ich denke für den Spaßfaktor ist der alte Sound besser. Ich gehe aber stark davon aus, das dieser auf Dauer nervt.
Vielleicht hilft es ja den Schalldämpfer oder auch komplett inkl. den Rohren mit Hitzeschutzband / Thermoband zu umwickeln?!
Das hab ich auch schon überlegt. Vielleicht hält es das Blech vom Schwingen ab
Btw, now that you mention not being able to cancel out vibrations of the engine at the end. You actually can cancel out most of the vibrations. But it might be that your float-a-motor isn't properly tuned. The instructions on it are pretty unclear and unreliable. Properly installed it should work like this:
The engine should rest on the front, and hang on the new rear mount on top of the universal joint. The side mounts should barely contribute to the holding up of the motor, and should mainly be there to prevent the side to side rocking of the engine. and absorb the rotational energy.
The rubbers might be too tall for those. But should also not be too soft, because they they absorb less, and start working more like springs.
Also make sure your engine, in rest mode, is straight aligned (a bit angled downwards, with the drive line towards the differential. if this isn't straight, you'll get some vibration from a non-aligned universal joint.
Another important sound cue is the correct carb tuning. you want the best mixing of air and fuel, for the most uniform combustion, reducing noise and vibrations. beware, this is a deep rabbit hole, few actually know what they are talking about.
I've tried various tightness settings of the engine mounts, this is about the best I can get them.
It's NOT driveshaft vibration, the noise level is the same if I just hit the throttle with the engine in neutral.
@@AstraWerke Joey and I should really come visit some time, he got his incredibly quiet and low on vibration, and he has a high compression head which would make it worse.
@@DrTheRich That'd be interesting, haven't experienced a quiet model A yet.
Compression doesn't affect smoothness for the most part though, as it's the carburetter that determines the amount of air admitted into the cylinders. So, unless you're going full throttle, there isn't any noticeable difference, only on a Diesel.
@AstraWerke I feel it very possible to spend enormous amounts of time on very minimal overall effect. Not saying you aren't doing this, but be sure to check your time engagement against the outcome. I'd hate to see you spend a huge amount of time only to obtain a very negligible result. These cars weren't known for luxury after all.
After changing the exhaust flow characteristics so much with your modifications you should go through your carburetor adjustments again to make sure it’s not running too lean or rich.
Very impressive. BTW, that paper air filter is a fire hazard. If any fuel drips into it, it’ll be ignited by a backfire.
It's a wire mesh for that exact reason
Does it pull more or less after this surgery? most noise comes from the torpedo, a good layer of felt there helps.
I'd say power-wise it's the same. Any possible power increase probably happens in an rpm range that I never reach xD
In your --Before and After - sound takes -------- the after DOES sound quieter ----- Sounds Good ----- Curious --- what diameter rod were you using ------ sixty or seventy series electrode? ------- Thank You for another interesting video ----- Hope you have a Good Weekend -------- Rodney
Zum Glück die Mineralwolle vergessen... Das Zeug sorgt nur dafür, dass der Auspuff schneller durchrostet weil es Wasser wunderbar bindet und der Isoationsfaktor dafür sorgt, dass es nicht so schnell verdampft
Another interesting video. Certainly improved low speed exhaust noise but gear and diff whine must be a large part of the running noise going by the shots of you driving away. Have you done any research on modern car exhausts with respect to noise? Might be an interesting experiment to try some off the shelf mufflers if non originality is not too blasphemous an idea.
Diff whine is now the main noise between 30 and 40 mph - above that it's engine vibration.
But yeah, at idle and low speeds, it did indeed make a big differnce.
Modern mufflers are designed shockingly similar. The only difference is that the tubes are arranged side by side instead of one behind the other, to save room.
@@AstraWerke That's interesting and logical I suppose. Was just hoping some advanced engineering might have been applied in the last 100 years or so. Like you say mechanical noise is now your biggest issue, noise wise, which again is logical, tyre noise is the biggest issue on modern cars these days.
@@jefflormans5441 Well there are some fancy schmancy patents here and there, but they are mostly conjoined with exhaust cutouts, which I really don't need xD
Actual development only happened with two stroke exhausts, where resonance has a key effect in combustion chamber filling and fuel atomization.
Nice work, but what I really want to know is, where did you get your spare tire cover?
Made it myself :)
th-cam.com/video/sm76RmMC2eQ/w-d-xo.html
hello! do you have any familiarity with the trafficators that came stock in german model a’s as their turn signals?
@@thetroodon9482 What do you mean by familiar? I've seen them, but other than a dab of WD40 I've not done anything to one
@ i’m very curious about them! and i know a video takes a lot to make but i would seriously appreciate some content about the ones that where made for the model A (mechanism wiring switches etc)
@thetroodon9482 I'd have to ask around as I don't have them myself. Might be something for the summer
@@AstraWerke i would most certainly agree!! they would be perfect for your car as like i said they came stock from the factory with them in German! i’ll be following closely and waiting to see more about them! (if you do decide to find some
oh yes! and happy new-years my friend
Hi, warum hast Du den die Dämmwolle schlussendlich nicht in den Schalldämpfer? Das hätte zur Geräuschminderung noch einiges gebracht und ist ja eigentlich das entscheidende bei einem Absorptionsschalldämpfer.
Vergessen xD
Do you have rubber mounting for the exhaust as well? It makes a huge difference on a modern car.
Not yet, but I want to try it out
17:31...that could be taking 2 ways...
You do always do so nice work but that end tube.............????
Not my artwork xD
Sadly, I have no means to bend all the curves into that size of tubing, so it's got to stay that way.
If you want to increase horsepower and improve gas mileage install a higher compression head.
Mach mal nen model a tokyo drift video wenns schneit..lol
Wurde schon gemacht th-cam.com/users/shortshefU1sImY54
Huh how can your engine still be so loud you have to drive in with earplugs, after rebuilding and balancing the engine??? Are you sure you did everything properly? Not having the same experience, but maybe i'm just deaf haha
My engine isn't even properly rebuild, and what's more beautiful than the sound of a hard working model A engine... I don't even miss a radio when i'm driving...
EDIT: A you're muffler wasn't up to snuff, that explains the difference...
There's about an hour-long video where I rebuild the engine and also show all the balancing I did. Maybe you find something I did wrong. But glancing at the size ratio of piston to crankshaft explains alot.
In essence, the cabin becomes a giant subwoofer - it's not so loud on the outside, but inside, you get the full experience.
Kauf dir ein parkside pmsg 200 die sind richtig gut für das Geld....