I really enjoy your videos, I really like your work ethics, I was a millwright for 34 yrs, and I have never seen anyone other then myself that runs the tap completely through, keep up the great work, sincerely, Tom Low
This is what my father used to do in 30's and 40's. A Railways trained boiler maker working in the country on bridges and farmer stuff. Good to see you doing what's needed.
Something else that will help you immensely is to use a countersink just slightly around each hole before tapping with the spiral point tap. It makes it very easy to start the tap. Your workmanship is a 10.
Looking good.....BTW, with a spiral point tap there's no need to back up an break the chip. They're designed to push the chips forward and you can power tap with them in a drill press/mill. Backing them up actually tends to chip the teeth, so run them straight through with that nice tapping fixture.
I couldn’t agree more, at the die shop I did my apprenticeship at, we tapped all our die blocks with a tap machine like that, I’m still using one 35 years later, much faster and more accurate than a tap handle
It was nice to see someone properly drill and tap a threaded hole. I hate when people oversize the holes so they can chuck the tap in a drill to save time or look cool, whatever the excuse. This video shows the effort it takes to do it right.
If Squatch or Seniors doing it, you can bet it's going to be as right as it ever will be for what they are working on or with. Chuckie2009 or what ever he calls his relaunched old videos channel now was good for all that wrong way stuff. Guys like us that were old enough to be his Dad or Grandad even, would try telling him from real world experience. You can't get away doing things like that for ever so he'd disable comments as he knew it all . Before he got banned for his views on certain subjects, I'd just watch to laugh when he found out we were right. The funniest one was when he sheared a valve stem off a huge brand new rear tractor tire tube putting the outer bead on wrong. He thought the tire shop was ripping him off getting them to fit or repair flat tires, he'd been warned that would happen doing it his way before he actually did it that time, He learned on that one why you do it a certain way both with the check book and the work involved doing it twice L.O.L
When I was in my apprenticeship the old timer I was working under was a stickler on proper machining techniques. Tapping especially. For every half turn of threading you backed the tap up 3/4 of a turn to break the chip. And he preferred this thick green tapping compound called Anchor Lube over oil. Using that method took forever but you keep a nice sharp tap and no breakage.
Hum, I was taught a little differently. How often you backed up depended on the tap size and material. It could be as little as 1/4 or 1/3rd turn for large taps, and two or three turns for small taps like #6 and #8 screws. You could usually tell by feel when it was time to back up, it would get harder to turn the tap as the chips started to bind. Backing up was generally about 1/3rd to 1/2 turn, though sometimes you might want to go more than that. The idea was to get a chip that would curl most of the way around the tap gullet, and then back up far enough to cut the chip with the other edge of the tap gullet. Since most tap gullet widths were not much more than 1/4 of the tap circumference, you just needed to back up a little more than that.
@@lwilton You had to know this German journeyman toolmaker I apprenticed with. He did everything the hard way. And he wanted to instill quality over efficiency in all things. I don't follow it any more so stringent. If I can tell the chip is getting broken I will not back it up so far. But those early lessons still stick with me
It depends on so many things that there's no one way to tap a hole that covers every tapping situation, in this instance he could have wound the tap in the tapping guide all the way through without backing off at all and get a perfect thread, because that's what gun taps are designed to do. I don't have an issue with how he tapped the holes and I'm not saying he did it wrong because he completed the task and it's not my time or money, just pointing out that's there's more than one way to tap a hole and get good results.
Thats the way to teach apprentices Like torquing every single bolt It's the slow painfully way but once you've done it loads the slow way you have experience to know how far you can push the short cuts You've gotta develop that feel of the chip breaking and burn it into your memory Then you can start pushing the limits a bit
When I worked in machine shop we had the same tap guide. It had a magnetic base so it could be moved across big frames to tap holes. That piece of equipment saved many taps from being broken due to misalignment. I have not seen one of those for many years. It was a great find for you and a great addition to any shop. Awesome to see how well all the parts are coming together. Mostly due to your diligence in researching projects and your patience. Thanks for another great video.
I am impressed. Your attention to details is never ending and simply amazing. You're inspiring to anyone who wants to do any kind of task/job. One needs to ask themselves one question whenever doing a job, "how would Squatch do it" That alone tell one to do it to the very best of one's abilities, pay attention to the detail, big or small. Take your time and do it properly. Once your job is done you will be so proud of what you has accomplished. Thank you for the inspiration.
When people look at #5J1113 at the equipment shows, they will be scratching their heads wondering how the belly pan and side irons stayed so straight! You got a lot more patina painting to do Squatch!
@@Buck1954 I don't know how true it is or how well it would work I never tried it, but an old guy with a lot of useful knowledge on subjects related to machines an engineering told me probably 30 years ago. Bury the bare metal part in lawn clippings ,that I'm guessing from all that time ago have to be wet, and it'll rust/age look them pretty good.
A drill press works fine for me to start taps. First few threads to get them started straight then hand tap the rest of the way. No extra equipment or shop space required.
Another great episode, and when when north Branch gets a mention so much for the better, it's that home town pride thing. NBHS. Class of 78. Go Vikings..... We really had nice well equipped shop classes, wood, metal, machine, welding small engine etc. Keep up the good work thanks.
I’ve been following this build since the day you dug it out from its job as yard art to today. I couldn’t believe how well that pony motor and the engine itself ran. Can’t wait to see it drive once you finish the belly pan, bumper and the bright yellow tins. The decision to stay with the patina on a machine such as this was brilliant.
I love watching your content to learn your approach to fabrication. I don’t know much about tractors but what I’ve learned will assist me in other maintenance tasks I’ll cross pats with. Thanks, Toby!
I tap a few small holes every week 4x40, 6x32,1/4×20. The tap starter looks interesting. I think that I can just chuck a tap in the drill press to keep it all square.
Short story long: As a career aircraft mechanic, years and years ago I was called out with a co-worker to a Cat Dealership that had a Hughes 500C Helicopter. Pilot reported "Chip Light" , which is a plug in the oil stream with two magnets .250" apart. The circuit was open until ferrous metal fuzz or chips, then a light came on. So here we go, to remove an Allison C250 turbine engine from this Hughes 500 at a Cat Dealership. Using 1/4" drive ratchets, and 12 point 1/4" sockets and other very small tools, we removed this turbine engine for inspection and repair, because Aircraft are held together by hundreds of small fasteners to distribute load. So yeah, probably an open end 3/8 wrench and a 12 point 1/4" socket...some extensions, maybe a #2 phillips. Meanwhile, these Cat mechanics have tool boxes that START at 1 1/2" wrench for the small work. We visited with each other and laughed it up! I remember there was an inline 6 block in the hangar. I could almost fit my head into the bore... That said, I really enjoy your channel! I watch every time! All the best to you and senior! Cheers!
Ok, I know nothing makes it into your videos, even in the background, unless you intend it to be there. So at 6:53 I'm wondering what that crumpled Caterpillar thing is propped up in the background?
I am familiar with that toy - but it’s seen better days! Maybe he’s using is for color reference for all the upcoming patina painting that will need to be completed for all the tin and for these shinny new parts. Or maybe it another restoration in progress, an extensive one at that.
@@ironman3406 I'm sorta doubting 'patina (I always thought that would be a great name for a daughter!) reference'. He has a mostly assembled reference in the middle of his workshed.
Watched this at work last night, excellent video! had to watch again as I can not comment or rate the video there. You had mentioned that you had a hard time starting taps. Are you aware that starting taps(at least most of them did) have a indent or detent on the drive end. if you chuck up a live center and use the live center as a starting guide, your tap will held straight and square to your piece if your machine to piece is square. So when you have holes to thread that might help you if you need to do it the old fashioned way
In my day we used a product called Habcool Tapping Fluid thinned/blended with Carbon Tetrachloride to tap holes in steel, aluminum and any exotic material that tapping a hole produced "sticky chips." Sticky chips that caused you to have to back up to break the chip often making difficult tapping like in 18 percent Nickel. Straight cutting oil for threading machines just wouldn't produce a glass smooth machined surface. Hey what did we know?
Great 👌 work. You made my head hurt. I'm glad I'm the one that had to figure out where everything went. I'm looking forward to seeing the first time you roll out of shop . Keep up the great work.
I get some from mc master that are spiral flute like a drill bit even though you still need to back out and clear the cuttings they work exceptional, I do a bit of rethreading of track rollers (upside down)
Looking great! With all the work you're putting into the belly pan and curved bumper, have you considered making any of these pieces for anyone else (for money, of course).
Hey Squatch just like to say I really enjoy your videos-especially the ones where you are working on the old machines. Your attention to detail is amazing and I've actually gotten problem solving ideas from watching your videos. To give some perspective on why I will be asking the questions I'm about to I'd like to share a little about myself. I'll start out be saying I'm not a machinist or fabricator or professional mechanic. Everything I do at home is as a hobby. My day job is Quality Assurance Manager/Thermal Processing Specialist at a food processing company. (I've been in this position or similar since around 2004 but I have over 40 years in the business.) In the past I've done maintenance and repair on our processing equipment so I can spin a wrench, measure, cut, weld, drill, tap and thread. My question is: Why did you choose to use the hand tapping machine to only start the threads instead of using it to thread all the way through? It seems like it would have saved you a lot of time. I have one of those hand tappers made by another company and use the spiral point, aka gun taps, for through holes all the time without issue since they eject the chips downward (remember hobby), A machinist friend turned me onto them and spiral flute taps years ago and i pretty much use them for threading all new holes. By the way I really like my hand tapper-much faster and damn near perfect threads every time. Another tip-also from my machinist friend-it's better to chamfer/deburr the holes before tapping. It helps the tap to start and you will have a better thread at the end.
I use spiral flute taps now. They are for power tapping and you do not need to reverse the tap to break the chip because it comes out the top as you are threading. They also eliminate the need for bottom taps when tapping blind holes. I love them.
Speaking of power tapping, check out Adam Booth's (ABOM79) videos on his new Flexarm power tappers. I saw Toby's tap starter and thought "Aha, that's where the idea came from".
@@billh230 I've seen it. Would take a lot of holes to pay for one like he has. I don't use the taps for power tapping I still hand tap but they are designed for power tapping.
@@terrycannon570 Word. I don't think I've used any taps for at least 5 years now, except to clean threads out. So even a tap starter like Toby has is money too far for me.
You mentioned keeping the tap square, which is always a problem and a tap guide like you have will greatly help, but if you look carefully at 7:13, the tap is not properly aligned, as the piece you are threading moves in a circular motion as you move the tap. Not sure if the tap is not quite vertical, or if the tap is off of the center-line of the guide, but could be worth checking out when you have the time.
I used a tap guide for several years at the place where I used to work. The tap was vertical but slightly off center. It would walk the pieces we were tapping in a small circle but the threads would be perfect as long as you didn't clamp it to the table. I had to explain that to my boss because he would line it up and clamp it down and he couldn't figure out why the threads he cut were always loose and chipped.
@@squatch253 As long as the tap is vertical then the threads will be aligned (and the correct size, as long as you don't clamp the piece), the tap guide I have used clamps the tap in a chuck so it is centered (the tap is clamped from both sides not just one from a set screw). May the tap you pick up always be sharp, and keep on with the build(s). Looking forward to seeing 1113 drive out of the workshop.
HEY! THERE IT IS AGAIN! Right there! @13:26 Standing on the floor in front of the shelves. It looks like a HUGE valve out of a diesel locomotive Do a show-and-tell on that some time soon please
Sqatch, I have come to the conclusion that if you were given new castings and parts as well as ALL the blueprints for a D2 you would still build 1 fine crawler as good as if not better than 5J1113 keep up the great work
Awesome video the tap starter tool is really handy do you know if them are still available new ? My biggest problem with taps is like you said about getting them started square. Keep up the great videos Toby it's always nice to see progress and updates
@@uglysteve1 yes I have did that before I worked for a machine shop years ago and we used the milling machine slowed down to barely move it had a clutch and I would start the tap and kick the clutch out and back it out by hand and if you timed it right it would thread 1 inch hole in 1 inch thick steel in a few minutes
@@clydeschwartz2167 I felt silly mentioning that but my high school machine shop teacher showed us how to start a tap by turning the drill press by hand to start the tap squarely. Likely, everyone already knows this. Steve
Another nice fabrication video Sir. I even learned a trick I'd never been aware of when you used a countersink bit after cutting the threads. I do always use cutting oil. Especially when I'm using a hole saw which I'll be doing this Tuesday to install an additional fire button on an arcade game that only has one on the left side of the joystick on the right side of the joystick on the metal control panel on a 60 in 1 Multicade game I built for a customer who's left handed. He got tired of all his right handed friends and especially his girlfriends b$!ching about it. I had to buy a new one the size I need as my old one is now dull.
I just looked up the word "meticulous" in the dictionary - and there was your picture!!!! Seriously, the parts are beautiful! Did I miss where you cleaned all the mill scale off the metal, or was this metal already cleaned? Is it cold-rolled as opposed to hot? I had the privilege of working with some Tool and Die Makers (I repaired their machines sometimes) and one of them shared with me that one should always chamfer the hole before starting a tap. This not only eliminated the pulled-up edge on the first thread, but it spreads out the force by allowing more tap area to engage the metal at first. This helps prevent tap breakage. I keep forgetting to use the method - but will have another opportunity tomorrow. Slightly smaller than you're working with, though - #3-48 machine screw size!
I have one I purchased new 2 years ago along with extra tap holders-it has paid for itself many times over in time saving and eliminating frustration. A little pricy upfront but well worth it if you do a lot of repetitive tapping.
@@squatch253 it was in our 105 year old grainery and slated for the junk pile. Don’t know who’s it was, maybe grandpas if we can figure out how old it is. Worse case split it in half and have some vintage wall art!
A drill press is the key, with a hand drill you end cutting maybe two or three times more material due to the oscillation because the pilot bit is not strong enough to keep the hole saw well centered.
That tap is actually called a spiral point tap, aka "gun tap". They are designed to eject the chips downward through the hole and are most commonly used in hand tapping machines (like Suatch's) and power tapping applications / production work.
@@michaelennis4434 I disagree-it is a spiral point tap designed to push the chips through the hole as you tap the threads. I have several in sizes ranging from #6 up to 1/2", both course and fine threads. I drill the recommended tap size hole then using the spiral point tap in a hand tapping machine such as Squatch's I thread the hole all the way through. I've even used them to power tap holes with my drill press in my home shop and a mill at work. Using plenty of cutting oil of course. A starter tap has straight flutes and a fairly long taper-usually the first 5 to 7 threads. You can start the taper tap by hand if you are careful as it is somewhat forgiving if you are slightly out of square. It is not recommended to use a spiral point tap to start the threads without some type of guide. Since spiral point taps have somewhat aggressive cutting edges if you start the tap crooked it can actually re-cut the side of the hole and lead to a crooked thread.
A gentleman put together a team to build a 150 hp Case steam tractor. He found the original plans and documentation at Case. There were only a very few of these ever built and none have survived. They were so big that in their time they were very hard to transport. They had to make molds and cast parts, build the machines to form parts. Had to reverse engineer everything. Another resurrection project was Union Pacifics rebuild of the Big Boy although they didn't have near as far to go.
I looks like your tap is bent. Impossible to line up square. Close enough for most people, but I'm mildly surprised you let that go. edit: the starter tap
I really enjoy your videos, I really like your work ethics, I was a millwright for 34 yrs, and I have never seen anyone other then myself that runs the tap completely through, keep up the great work, sincerely, Tom Low
This is what my father used to do in 30's and 40's. A Railways trained boiler maker working in the country on bridges and farmer stuff. Good to see you doing what's needed.
Man senior did good on that tap guide that is slick.
What a great find!
Something else that will help you immensely is to use a countersink just slightly around each hole before tapping with the spiral point tap. It makes it very easy to start the tap. Your workmanship is a 10.
Looking good.....BTW, with a spiral point tap there's no need to back up an break the chip. They're designed to push the chips forward and you can power tap with them in a drill press/mill.
Backing them up actually tends to chip the teeth, so run them straight through with that nice tapping fixture.
Exactly right!
I couldn’t agree more, at the die shop I did my apprenticeship at, we tapped all our die blocks with a tap machine like that, I’m still using one 35 years later, much faster and more accurate than a tap handle
It was nice to see someone properly drill and tap a threaded hole. I hate when people oversize the holes so they can chuck the tap in a drill to save time or look cool, whatever the excuse. This video shows the effort it takes to do it right.
If Squatch or Seniors doing it, you can bet it's going to be as right as it ever will be for what they are working on or with. Chuckie2009 or what ever he calls his relaunched old videos channel now was good for all that wrong way stuff. Guys like us that were old enough to be his Dad or Grandad even, would try telling him from real world experience. You can't get away doing things like that for ever so he'd disable comments as he knew it all . Before he got banned for his views on certain subjects, I'd just watch to laugh when he found out we were right. The funniest one was when he sheared a valve stem off a huge brand new rear tractor tire tube putting the outer bead on wrong. He thought the tire shop was ripping him off getting them to fit or repair flat tires, he'd been warned that would happen doing it his way before he actually did it that time, He learned on that one why you do it a certain way both with the check book and the work involved doing it twice L.O.L
Gun taps are the "cat's meow" for through holes!
Not only are you Squatch very good at fabricating. Also highest class of videos with lots of humour! Thanks for the entertainment!
When I was in my apprenticeship the old timer I was working under was a stickler on proper machining techniques. Tapping especially. For every half turn of threading you backed the tap up 3/4 of a turn to break the chip. And he preferred this thick green tapping compound called Anchor Lube over oil. Using that method took forever but you keep a nice sharp tap and no breakage.
Hum, I was taught a little differently. How often you backed up depended on the tap size and material. It could be as little as 1/4 or 1/3rd turn for large taps, and two or three turns for small taps like #6 and #8 screws. You could usually tell by feel when it was time to back up, it would get harder to turn the tap as the chips started to bind.
Backing up was generally about 1/3rd to 1/2 turn, though sometimes you might want to go more than that. The idea was to get a chip that would curl most of the way around the tap gullet, and then back up far enough to cut the chip with the other edge of the tap gullet. Since most tap gullet widths were not much more than 1/4 of the tap circumference, you just needed to back up a little more than that.
@@lwilton You had to know this German journeyman toolmaker I apprenticed with. He did everything the hard way. And he wanted to instill quality over efficiency in all things. I don't follow it any more so stringent. If I can tell the chip is getting broken I will not back it up so far. But those early lessons still stick with me
It depends on so many things that there's no one way to tap a hole that covers every tapping situation, in this instance he could have wound the tap in the tapping guide all the way through without backing off at all and get a perfect thread, because that's what gun taps are designed to do. I don't have an issue with how he tapped the holes and I'm not saying he did it wrong because he completed the task and it's not my time or money, just pointing out that's there's more than one way to tap a hole and get good results.
Thats the way to teach apprentices
Like torquing every single bolt
It's the slow painfully way but once you've done it loads the slow way you have experience to know how far you can push the short cuts
You've gotta develop that feel of the chip breaking and burn it into your memory
Then you can start pushing the limits a bit
When I worked in machine shop we had the same tap guide. It had a magnetic base so it could be moved across big frames to tap holes. That piece of equipment saved many taps from being broken due to misalignment. I have not seen one of those for many years. It was a great find for you and a great addition to any shop. Awesome to see how well all the parts are coming together. Mostly due to your diligence in researching projects and your patience. Thanks for another great video.
Wow! That tap stater is a cool and awesome tool!!! Nice!!!
Great video. For clarification that is not a deburing bit. It is a countersink.
Incredible fabrication as always......
I am impressed. Your attention to details is never ending and simply amazing. You're inspiring to anyone who wants to do any kind of task/job. One needs to ask themselves one question whenever doing a job, "how would Squatch do it" That alone tell one to do it to the very best of one's abilities, pay attention to the detail, big or small. Take your time and do it properly. Once your job is done you will be so proud of what you has accomplished.
Thank you for the inspiration.
Great precision work as usual .... Love the Vintage MARX MAR Toy Tin Litho WINDUP Toy.
Your fuel transfer pump & radiator drain spout will thank the guard from giving it the kiss of death.
When people look at #5J1113 at the equipment shows, they will be scratching their heads wondering how the belly pan and side irons stayed so straight! You got a lot more patina painting to do Squatch!
Just put a little paint on it and set it out in the weather to rust.
@@Buck1954 I don't know how true it is or how well it would work I never tried it, but an old guy with a lot of useful knowledge on subjects related to machines an engineering told me probably 30 years ago. Bury the bare metal part in lawn clippings ,that I'm guessing from all that time ago have to be wet, and it'll rust/age look them pretty good.
A drill press works fine for me to start taps. First few threads to get them started straight then hand tap the rest of the way. No extra equipment or shop space required.
Great fabrication meticulous attention to detail, pleasure to watch the build thanks for sharing 👍
Another great episode, and when when north Branch gets a mention so much for the better, it's that home town pride thing. NBHS. Class of 78. Go Vikings.....
We really had nice well equipped shop classes, wood, metal, machine, welding small engine etc. Keep up the good work thanks.
This is going so well Toby! Excellent workmanship! That lovely machine is going to be such a credit to you! 🙂
9:05 Yes I like to see that practiced with tapping, backing off to prevent tearing the thread! Lookin' real good so far, thank you for sharing.
Another nice piece of fabrication . Thanks for the video.
I’ve been following this build since the day you dug it out from its job as yard art to today. I couldn’t believe how well that pony motor and the engine itself ran. Can’t wait to see it drive once you finish the belly pan, bumper and the bright yellow tins. The decision to stay with the patina on a machine such as this was brilliant.
I use my large drill press to start the tap. Basically turn the pulley by hand, or if its a big tap put a ratchet on the spindle nut.
WOW what a lot of work!! Excellent job Squatch!! Stay safe!!
you are an awesome trades man fabulous skills cheers from australia love watching what you do
Love it man. Your attention to detail is something to aspire to. Much respect from a fellow tech.
Another good way to get straight holes when hand tapping is to use a spring loaded center in a mill or drill press.
I love watching your content to learn your approach to fabrication. I don’t know much about tractors but what I’ve learned will assist me in other maintenance tasks I’ll cross pats with. Thanks, Toby!
I tap a few small holes every week 4x40, 6x32,1/4×20. The tap starter looks interesting. I think that I can just chuck a tap in the drill press to keep it all square.
Nice job Toby - looks like a lot of interest in the tap guide !!!
You still make everything look easy !!!
John
Short story long:
As a career aircraft mechanic, years and years ago I was called out with a co-worker to a Cat Dealership that had a Hughes 500C Helicopter. Pilot reported "Chip Light" , which is a plug in the oil stream with two magnets .250" apart. The circuit was open until ferrous metal fuzz or chips, then a light came on.
So here we go, to remove an Allison C250 turbine engine from this Hughes 500 at a Cat Dealership.
Using 1/4" drive ratchets, and 12 point 1/4" sockets and other very small tools, we removed this turbine engine for inspection and repair, because Aircraft are held together by hundreds of small fasteners to distribute load. So yeah, probably an open end 3/8 wrench and a 12 point 1/4" socket...some extensions, maybe a #2 phillips.
Meanwhile, these Cat mechanics have tool boxes that START at 1 1/2" wrench for the small work. We visited with each other and laughed it up! I remember there was an inline 6 block in the hangar. I could almost fit my head into the bore...
That said, I really enjoy your channel! I watch every time! All the best to you and senior! Cheers!
Would have been cool to have a time lapse of you threading those holes!
Just like my Dad taught me to cut threads, the universal truths of mechanics :)
Good morning!!
Time to get to work
Good video
Ok, I know nothing makes it into your videos, even in the background, unless you intend it to be there. So at 6:53 I'm wondering what that crumpled Caterpillar thing is propped up in the background?
I noticed it too, come on Toby, spill the beans.
Yeah, the camera was more centered on the toy than the tap.
I am familiar with that toy - but it’s seen better days! Maybe he’s using is for color reference for all the upcoming patina painting that will need to be completed for all the tin and for these shinny new parts. Or maybe it another restoration in progress, an extensive one at that.
@@ironman3406 I'm sorta doubting 'patina (I always thought that would be a great name for a daughter!) reference'. He has a mostly assembled reference in the middle of his workshed.
Watched this at work last night, excellent video! had to watch again as I can not comment or rate the video there.
You had mentioned that you had a hard time starting taps. Are you aware that starting taps(at least most of them did) have a indent or detent on the drive end. if you chuck up a live center and use the live center as a starting guide, your tap will held straight and square to your piece if your machine to piece is square. So when you have holes to thread that might help you if you need to do it the old fashioned way
In my day we used a product called Habcool Tapping Fluid thinned/blended with Carbon Tetrachloride to tap holes in steel, aluminum and any exotic material that tapping a hole produced "sticky chips." Sticky chips that caused you to have to back up to break the chip often making difficult tapping like in 18 percent Nickel. Straight cutting oil for threading machines just wouldn't produce a glass smooth machined surface. Hey what did we know?
you are full of surprises. A tap starter - never saw one like that B4. A very "cool tool" 👍
The hole for the radiator drain was probably in the right spot but decades of hits and bangs and metal stretching might have just moved it a little
Great 👌 work. You made my head hurt. I'm glad I'm the one that had to figure out where everything went. I'm looking forward to seeing the first time you roll out of shop . Keep up the great work.
I get some from mc master that are spiral flute like a drill bit even though you still need to back out and clear the cuttings they work exceptional, I do a bit of rethreading of track rollers (upside down)
That tap guide is sweet! What a score!
Awesome job Squatch! That tap starting tool is super cool. Looking forward to the next video
A drill press can start taps as well
Looking great! With all the work you're putting into the belly pan and curved bumper, have you considered making any of these pieces for anyone else (for money, of course).
Man Squatch that’s some great work you do! Perfection at its finest!👌😎👍
That is some seriously pretty fabrication!
Hey Squatch just like to say I really enjoy your videos-especially the ones where you are working on the old machines. Your attention to detail is amazing and I've actually gotten problem solving ideas from watching your videos.
To give some perspective on why I will be asking the questions I'm about to I'd like to share a little about myself. I'll start out be saying I'm not a machinist or fabricator or professional mechanic. Everything I do at home is as a hobby. My day job is Quality Assurance Manager/Thermal Processing Specialist at a food processing company. (I've been in this position or similar since around 2004 but I have over 40 years in the business.) In the past I've done maintenance and repair on our processing equipment so I can spin a wrench, measure, cut, weld, drill, tap and thread.
My question is: Why did you choose to use the hand tapping machine to only start the threads instead of using it to thread all the way through? It seems like it would have saved you a lot of time.
I have one of those hand tappers made by another company and use the spiral point, aka gun taps, for through holes all the time without issue since they eject the chips downward (remember hobby), A machinist friend turned me onto them and spiral flute taps years ago and i pretty much use them for threading all new holes. By the way I really like my hand tapper-much faster and damn near perfect threads every time.
Another tip-also from my machinist friend-it's better to chamfer/deburr the holes before tapping. It helps the tap to start and you will have a better thread at the end.
Keep in mind I'm not criticizing just curious as to your thinking as there are always alternatives to achieve an end result.
Agreed on all counts.
I use spiral flute taps now. They are for power tapping and you do not need to reverse the tap to break the chip because it comes out the top as you are threading. They also eliminate the need for bottom taps when tapping blind holes. I love them.
Speaking of power tapping, check out Adam Booth's (ABOM79) videos on his new Flexarm power tappers. I saw Toby's tap starter and thought "Aha, that's where the idea came from".
@@billh230 I've seen it. Would take a lot of holes to pay for one like he has. I don't use the taps for power tapping I still hand tap but they are designed for power tapping.
@@terrycannon570 Word. I don't think I've used any taps for at least 5 years now, except to clean threads out. So even a tap starter like Toby has is money too far for me.
You mentioned keeping the tap square, which is always a problem and a tap guide like you have will greatly help, but if you look carefully at 7:13, the tap is not properly aligned, as the piece you are threading moves in a circular motion as you move the tap. Not sure if the tap is not quite vertical, or if the tap is off of the center-line of the guide, but could be worth checking out when you have the time.
I used a tap guide for several years at the place where I used to work. The tap was vertical but slightly off center. It would walk the pieces we were tapping in a small circle but the threads would be perfect as long as you didn't clamp it to the table. I had to explain that to my boss because he would line it up and clamp it down and he couldn't figure out why the threads he cut were always loose and chipped.
@@squatch253 As long as the tap is vertical then the threads will be aligned (and the correct size, as long as you don't clamp the piece), the tap guide I have used clamps the tap in a chuck so it is centered (the tap is clamped from both sides not just one from a set screw). May the tap you pick up always be sharp, and keep on with the build(s). Looking forward to seeing 1113 drive out of the workshop.
HEY!
THERE IT IS AGAIN!
Right there! @13:26
Standing on the floor in front of the shelves.
It looks like a HUGE valve out of a diesel locomotive
Do a show-and-tell on that some time soon please
Like how you edit, no need to show every drill and tapped hole. Thanks
Sqatch, I have come to the conclusion that if you were given new castings and parts as well as ALL the blueprints for a D2 you would still build 1 fine crawler as good as if not better than 5J1113 keep up the great work
Chamfer the holes top and bottom before tapping for an easier and cleaner job.
Awesome video. Your videos makes me want to find a small tractor to do a restore on.
Oil the hole saw would help it last longer
You could have used some of that whale oil for the thread cutting, that Keith Rucker keeps talking about.
I use my drill press to start taps square. No, I don't turn on the drill press, Just hand turn one or two threads.
If there is such a thing as a "Certified Cat Parts Re-Fabricator for Items Extinct", Squatch, you should be it!
Looks like the bar I use on my chainsaw!
Awesome video the tap starter tool is really handy do you know if them are still available new ? My biggest problem with taps is like you said about getting them started square. Keep up the great videos Toby it's always nice to see progress and updates
Yes they do, google hand tapper.
@@c5h5nino24 ok thanks I will check it out
If it’s not too big use your drill press to start them.
@@uglysteve1 yes I have did that before I worked for a machine shop years ago and we used the milling machine slowed down to barely move it had a clutch and I would start the tap and kick the clutch out and back it out by hand and if you timed it right it would thread 1 inch hole in 1 inch thick steel in a few minutes
@@clydeschwartz2167 I felt silly mentioning that but my high school machine shop teacher showed us how to start a tap by turning the drill press by hand to start the tap squarely. Likely, everyone already knows this. Steve
They will be the best ever made. 👍
Your welds are looking better. using more heat?
Another nice fabrication video Sir.
I even learned a trick I'd never been aware of when you used a countersink bit after cutting the threads.
I do always use cutting oil.
Especially when I'm using a hole saw which I'll be doing this Tuesday to install an additional fire button on an arcade game that only has one on the left side of the joystick on the right side of the joystick on the metal control panel on a 60 in 1 Multicade game I built for a customer who's left handed.
He got tired of all his right handed friends and especially his girlfriends b$!ching about it.
I had to buy a new one the size I need as my old one is now dull.
I just looked up the word "meticulous" in the dictionary - and there was your picture!!!! Seriously, the parts are beautiful! Did I miss where you cleaned all the mill scale off the metal, or was this metal already cleaned? Is it cold-rolled as opposed to hot?
I had the privilege of working with some Tool and Die Makers (I repaired their machines sometimes) and one of them shared with me that one should always chamfer the hole before starting a tap. This not only eliminated the pulled-up edge on the first thread, but it spreads out the force by allowing more tap area to engage the metal at first. This helps prevent tap breakage. I keep forgetting to use the method - but will have another opportunity tomorrow. Slightly smaller than you're working with, though - #3-48 machine screw size!
How does the tap-guide function, when the various taps have different pitches, but only one leadscrew pitch?
you have a drill press you can try stall tapping would save a lot of time
I bet you enjoyed showing your work in math class as a kid!!
@@squatch253, You ain't alone there. Algebra kicked me in the head every day.
I use rapid tap cutting fluid
Shouldn't backup with spiral point taps. Also, no reason not to use them vs a hand tap. Good fab!
The tap guide is probably going to pay for itself in no time. That's something that would cut down on the profanity and hurling tools across the shop.
I have one I purchased new 2 years ago along with extra tap holders-it has paid for itself many times over in time saving and eliminating frustration. A little pricy upfront but well worth it if you do a lot of repetitive tapping.
Nice score at the swap meet good eye! Great job as always.
Good content. 👍
North branch isn't even north of me just east a few miles lol
Looks like you have a toy dozer to straighten out. A Cat or Tonka?
Hey Toby what are the casting numbers on a RD6 head 🤔
I think I may of found one 🤔
But I don't know how to Identify them !!!
I guess that takes the place of “Arms Day” at the gym.
Lookin' good!
Good video good content 👌
Is that caterpillar toy slated for a full restoration? It looks familiar 😁
@@squatch253 it was in our 105 year old grainery and slated for the junk pile. Don’t know who’s it was, maybe grandpas if we can figure out how old it is. Worse case split it in half and have some vintage wall art!
Was that the magic of editing or do i need them hole saws?
Likely both. A good set of hole saws should find their way into your tool box.
A drill press is the key, with a hand drill you end cutting maybe two or three times more material due to the oscillation because the pilot bit is not strong enough to keep the hole saw well centered.
A comment for your algorithm.
ALL HAIL THE HYPNOTO....... ALGORITHM.
You watch Superfast Matt too?
pour tarauder il faut utiliser 3 tarauds un ébaucheur, un intermédiaire et un finisseur !!!!!!!
You only need the finisher for bottom/blind holes
That tap in the tap starter is a conventional tap. It's a starter tap.
That tap is actually called a spiral point tap, aka "gun tap". They are designed to eject the chips downward through the hole and are most commonly used in hand tapping machines (like Suatch's) and power tapping applications / production work.
I agree. MY point was on the type of point that was on the tip makes it a starter tap. The tap he finished with is called a bottom tap.
@@michaelennis4434 I disagree-it is a spiral point tap designed to push the chips through the hole as you tap the threads. I have several in sizes ranging from #6 up to 1/2", both course and fine threads. I drill the recommended tap size hole then using the spiral point tap in a hand tapping machine such as Squatch's I thread the hole all the way through. I've even used them to power tap holes with my drill press in my home shop and a mill at work. Using plenty of cutting oil of course.
A starter tap has straight flutes and a fairly long taper-usually the first 5 to 7 threads. You can start the taper tap by hand if you are careful as it is somewhat forgiving if you are slightly out of square. It is not recommended to use a spiral point tap to start the threads without some type of guide. Since spiral point taps have somewhat aggressive cutting edges if you start the tap crooked it can actually re-cut the side of the hole and lead to a crooked thread.
VERY NICE
Man... it would be expensive beyond words, but can you imagine rebuilding a D2 from scratch/plans? Just seeing those side irons... oof.
A gentleman put together a team to build a 150 hp Case steam tractor. He found the original plans and documentation at Case. There were only a very few of these ever built and none have survived. They were so big that in their time they were very hard to transport. They had to make molds and cast parts, build the machines to form parts. Had to reverse engineer everything. Another resurrection project was Union Pacifics rebuild of the Big Boy although they didn't have near as far to go.
@@kenore4003 Big Boy coming back is so cool! I can't wait to hear that loco cannonball.
I have some blueprints I want to share with you, how can I send those to you?
I looks like your tap is bent. Impossible to line up square. Close enough for most people, but I'm mildly surprised you let that go.
edit: the starter tap
I think that is a stackup of clearances in the guide and holder.
15 mins = 676 views 😁👍🏻👍🏻
Could this be... right, proper and correct?! :)
😎😺👍👍👍👍👍
Again, the Seven Ps payoff.
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