Hi Garrett, I just come to finish to see your video and I want to thanks you to produce this video he is very helpful , I'm feeling more confident to surface my spoilboard after watching this . I'm agree with Joel azzara it is a great camera work too. Thanks again for your support Alfred
AlfredFillion, I'm glad to hear that you found the video helpful, Alfred! Your confidence in surfacing the spoilboard is great to see. Thank you for your kind words about the camera work!
naturesliveedge9849, I'm glad you found the information helpful! It's important to ensure the spoil board is perfectly flat first, as it creates a stable reference for the final tram adjustment, leading to more accurate cuts.
Great video, Garrett!! 👍👍 Thank you so much for showing us how to create the design and the toolpaths. This is extremely helpful. 😃 Great camera work too, Adam. 📹🎬
From your statement, I think you're confusing tramming with how well the surface of the spoilboard is for being co-planer with the gantry. At the sake of oversimplifying things, tramming is setting the angle of the router (or spindle if your machine has one) in both axis so that the bits will mill perpendicular to the spoilboard surface in both axis. More simply explained, if your router (or spindle) is properly trammed, a bit with a 10" wide cutter would sit perfectly flat on the spoilboard at every point along its outer perimeter. There are several very good TH-cam videos on tramming that explain how to go about adjusting your router (or spindle) so that it'll be properly trammed. Again, I hope that I've not misunderstood what you were saying about tramming.
Thanks for sharing with us. Does the router come with this machine, or is that an upgrade. You may have said already, but i have noise going on around me. Thanks again😊
Hey Garret! Should you surface both sides of the spoilboard (when it´s new)? I´m having lots of warping issues, i´m using 20mm MDF full size 72" x 107". Thank you!
No because the underlaying base board may be wavy as well which will force waviness into the spoil board regardless of how flat you make it. Make sense?
@@IDCWoodcraft Sorry, forgot to add, the base of the machine is all aluminium. I´ve heard that surfacing both sides helps with the stability of the board. I´ll just add more screws to fix it in place. Thank you again for your content, really helped me out since the begining. Luciano from Argentina
Question on the step that you changed the profile pass from last to no pass would T you just change this setting to first and remove the profile pass you first setup. New to this just thought this would do the same thing but all in the pocket.
Great question. The answer is no because the first it last pass in pocket will still within the box. The separate profile path with cut farther out and cover the maximum spoil board area
Garrett, perhaps you should explain the collet's makeup, as that'd clarify for them, just how much of any bit's shank needs to be gripped by the collet?
Hi Garrett, question. If I followed correctly, you save the tool paths into a single file, and the gsender software combined them and the run them in order? How is that done? I do the same thing for other project, but I have to run the two programs one after the other. Is there something in Vectric (I am running the pro version 12) that i missed when saving my tool paths?
allenhuckabee3764, You're right about saving the tool paths into a single file, and gsender can combine and run them in order. In Vectric, you should look for the option to output all tool paths into one single file when you save. This is typically done in the "Save Tool Paths" dialog where you can select the option for "Combine Toolpaths." If you’re still having to run them separately, ensure you're exporting all the necessary tool paths together before saving. Enjoy your projects!
So, you ended up almost doubling your feed rate and I’d like to know how you determine that rate. I’ve access to three cnc machines: a desktop, a medium sized freestanding shop it, and a 4x4 phantom with an ATC. I often see videos where the user says “start out at the recommended feeds and speeds but then you can adjust the feeds based on the sturdiness and power of your machine.” I should be able to run jobs at faster feeds on my phantom… how do I determine those speeds?
hawleyw6, Determining the optimal feed rate for your CNC machines involves a combination of material properties, tooling, and machine capabilities. A good starting point is to look at the manufacturer's recommended speeds and feeds specific to the material you're working with. From there, you can gradually increase the feed rate while monitoring for any signs of strain or poor finish quality. It's important to test and adjust based on how rigid your machine is and how it handles different materials under load. Remember to balance speed with the quality of cut to ensure the best results.
johnk6847, Yes, gSender does have a surfacing macro feature that can be quite handy for tasks like flattening or leveling your material. It automates the process, making it easier to achieve a consistent surface.
robleedroid, Yes, servo motors can help reduce step marks compared to stepper motors. They provide smoother motion and better control over positioning, which can lead to higher quality finishes. However, the setup and tuning can be more complex. Overall, if you're looking for precision, servos are definitely a solid choice!
This is a great question! The answer is yes. The spoil board is considered a sacrificial part of the CNC router. Inevitably over time, you will cut into it. In the long run, it will be cut into so much that you'll need to resurface. Other circumstances that may require resurfacing is when you move the machine, or it is subjected to environment of changing humidity over a long period of time. I hope that helps
SeamlessFab, Both EVA and MDF have their own unique properties that make them suitable for different applications. EVA is often more flexible and has better impact resistance, while MDF provides a smooth surface for detailed machining. It really depends on the project and desired outcome!
Hi Garrett,
I just come to finish to see your video and I want to thanks you to produce this video he is very helpful , I'm feeling more confident to surface my spoilboard after watching this . I'm agree with Joel azzara it is a great camera work too.
Thanks again for your support
Alfred
AlfredFillion, I'm glad to hear that you found the video helpful, Alfred! Your confidence in surfacing the spoilboard is great to see. Thank you for your kind words about the camera work!
I learn something every time I watch one of your videos thanks for everything you do I really appreciate your efforts thank you
gcarter1953, I'm so glad to hear that you find the videos helpful! Your appreciation means a lot to me.
Good job on the video Garrett !
ozguzzi, Thanks so much! I really appreciate your support!
Excellent instruction.
Thanks!
johnboath6698, I'm glad you found the instructions helpful! Enjoy your woodworking!
Garrett: Thanks for sharing the information. I don't understand why you wait to do a final tram after the spoil board is surfaced. Thanks
naturesliveedge9849, I'm glad you found the information helpful! It's important to ensure the spoil board is perfectly flat first, as it creates a stable reference for the final tram adjustment, leading to more accurate cuts.
Great video, Garrett!! 👍👍
Thank you so much for showing us how to create the design and the toolpaths.
This is extremely helpful. 😃
Great camera work too, Adam. 📹🎬
JoeLazzara, I'm glad you enjoyed the video! It's great to hear that the design and toolpaths were helpful for you.
Mine was good to .002 over 29 inches on x axis and .005 on y axis. Never had to tram it.
So glad it came together in tram! Saved you some time
@@IDCWoodcraft yes, my old wasteboard was way out!
From your statement, I think you're confusing tramming with how well the surface of the spoilboard is for being co-planer with the gantry. At the sake of oversimplifying things, tramming is setting the angle of the router (or spindle if your machine has one) in both axis so that the bits will mill perpendicular to the spoilboard surface in both axis. More simply explained, if your router (or spindle) is properly trammed, a bit with a 10" wide cutter would sit perfectly flat on the spoilboard at every point along its outer perimeter. There are several very good TH-cam videos on tramming that explain how to go about adjusting your router (or spindle) so that it'll be properly trammed. Again, I hope that I've not misunderstood what you were saying about tramming.
@@ApexWoodworks No, that's the difference between gantry and wasteboard.
Thanks for sharing with us. Does the router come with this machine, or is that an upgrade. You may have said already, but i have noise going on around me. Thanks again😊
Hi Clint. No it does not. It is an upgrade.
Hey Garret! Should you surface both sides of the spoilboard (when it´s new)? I´m having lots of warping issues, i´m using 20mm MDF full size 72" x 107". Thank you!
No because the underlaying base board may be wavy as well which will force waviness into the spoil board regardless of how flat you make it. Make sense?
@@IDCWoodcraft thank you
Yes if pulling vacuum thru it
@@IDCWoodcraft Sorry, forgot to add, the base of the machine is all aluminium. I´ve heard that surfacing both sides helps with the stability of the board. I´ll just add more screws to fix it in place. Thank you again for your content, really helped me out since the begining. Luciano from Argentina
Question on the step that you changed the profile pass from last to no pass would T you just change this setting to first and remove the profile pass you first setup. New to this just thought this would do the same thing but all in the pocket.
Great question. The answer is no because the first it last pass in pocket will still within the box. The separate profile path with cut farther out and cover the maximum spoil board area
@@IDCWoodcraft I figured there would be a good reason. Thanks for the update.
Garrett, perhaps you should explain the collet's makeup, as that'd clarify for them, just how much of any bit's shank needs to be gripped by the collet?
ApexWoodworks, That's a great point! Here is a video that should really help you: th-cam.com/video/aeeaeYoOHFY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=2WbRXO8z2qpONDZW
What step over percentage or inches did you use?
hdmax33, The step over percentage I typically use for this is 80% brother!
Hi Garrett, question. If I followed correctly, you save the tool paths into a single file, and the gsender software combined them and the run them in order? How is that done? I do the same thing for other project, but I have to run the two programs one after the other. Is there something in Vectric (I am running the pro version 12) that i missed when saving my tool paths?
allenhuckabee3764, You're right about saving the tool paths into a single file, and gsender can combine and run them in order. In Vectric, you should look for the option to output all tool paths into one single file when you save. This is typically done in the "Save Tool Paths" dialog where you can select the option for "Combine Toolpaths." If you’re still having to run them separately, ensure you're exporting all the necessary tool paths together before saving. Enjoy your projects!
@ thank you!
So, you ended up almost doubling your feed rate and I’d like to know how you determine that rate. I’ve access to three cnc machines: a desktop, a medium sized freestanding shop it, and a 4x4 phantom with an ATC.
I often see videos where the user says “start out at the recommended feeds and speeds but then you can adjust the feeds based on the sturdiness and power of your machine.”
I should be able to run jobs at faster feeds on my phantom… how do I determine those speeds?
hawleyw6, Determining the optimal feed rate for your CNC machines involves a combination of material properties, tooling, and machine capabilities. A good starting point is to look at the manufacturer's recommended speeds and feeds specific to the material you're working with. From there, you can gradually increase the feed rate while monitoring for any signs of strain or poor finish quality. It's important to test and adjust based on how rigid your machine is and how it handles different materials under load. Remember to balance speed with the quality of cut to ensure the best results.
Doesn't gSender have a surfacing macro built into the software?
johnk6847, Yes, gSender does have a surfacing macro feature that can be quite handy for tasks like flattening or leveling your material. It automates the process, making it easier to achieve a consistent surface.
Would servo motors make the step marks less obvious
robleedroid, Yes, servo motors can help reduce step marks compared to stepper motors. They provide smoother motion and better control over positioning, which can lead to higher quality finishes. However, the setup and tuning can be more complex. Overall, if you're looking for precision, servos are definitely a solid choice!
🌵🙋🌵
williamcovell6324, glad you liked this one brother.
will a spoilboard ever need more than one surfacing during its lifetime?
This is a great question! The answer is yes. The spoil board is considered a sacrificial part of the CNC router. Inevitably over time, you will cut into it. In the long run, it will be cut into so much that you'll need to resurface. Other circumstances that may require resurfacing is when you move the machine, or it is subjected to environment of changing humidity over a long period of time. I hope that helps
EVA > MDF
SeamlessFab, Both EVA and MDF have their own unique properties that make them suitable for different applications. EVA is often more flexible and has better impact resistance, while MDF provides a smooth surface for detailed machining. It really depends on the project and desired outcome!