Replacing a bad driver on a Mackie 450 is not very hard at all. The hardest part is getting out the 17 screws. After that, it's very easy and intuitive.
I can't imagine many people needing to watch this video....but I DID!! Thanks for the help! I was going to send it away until I watched how easy it was to replace the driver diaphragm. You just saved me a bundle :) Keep posting!!!!
Pete, I'm replacing one one of these today and you were the first video that came up! Good to see you again, however one sided, and keep up the great work!
for anyone wondering how you test if a tweeter is indeed blown, test the impedance of the diagphram with a multimeter, it should read between 6-8 ohms, if its open circuit its fried. Also you can visually inspect the voice coil for damage, any burns or melts in the voicecoil is a failure and also for seperation of the voicecoil from the diaphram. Damage is usally obvious just by looking at it. Ive just had to carrie out a repair on 1 mackie srm 450 where the high end was not right, still working but less clear than the other matching speaker. The voice coil was distorted and melted along alot of the track. It still worked but didnt sound good.
When replacing a diaphram you need to clean out the voice coil channel to make sure its clean and free of debree otherwise you can end up with early failure of a new unit.
When changing a diaphragm you should always check for debris in the voice coil cavity. Good video otherwise. I was just here to see how chunky/puny the drivers are but many people will find videos like this very useful. Keep 'em coming!
Raz, I'm not an electronics whiz. I posted my video as a "if I can do this repair ... you can too" sort of thing. But I would guess that the repair described in my video would fix your speaker. It seems that the high frequency driver is the most vulnerable to damage/failure. Wish I could be of more help. I guess you could use your multi-meter on the terminals and make sure that the signal matches that of your functioning SRM450. That would isolate the problem.
great instructional video. When I replaced my tweeter, its still not working i.e. muffled sound and no high end frequencies. This was the origional problem. Do you think it could be the Amp ? Our local speaker repair wants $350 to repair it, and I can buy a used Mackie for that price anyway ! Advice ?
Need to clean the diagram crack and shop vac it to get the blown debre out of the slot before putting in a new one , the dirt can destroy the new driver coils
I think it's more of a sound than a sight that lets you know the speaker is fried. With a large speaker you can probably see physical damage to the materials on the loudspeaker, but with a small high-frequency driver like this. It's more of a sound that indicates the problem. I didn't hear this particular one, but I would guess that muffled sound, rattling with the sound, or NO sound would tell you that the driver might be damaged. @HipfishMonthly
Did you get the extension?? .... if you got the extension and you're able to reach the screws I don't know why they might be harder to pull out. I even did a few screws with a LONG hand-heltdscrewdriver. I did two screws with that before I went out and bought an extension : )
You say you are replacing the driver but isn't that the diaphragm that you replaced? I looked online as my horn is not working and I found a driver and a diaphragm available as a fix for this, how can you tell which one it is?
Hi, I had a problem with one of my SRM450 last evening, just before the party had to start. There was no sound coming from the tweeter (ore high freq.driver, as you name it). The only sound came from the bass (low freq.driver) I have no ideea what happened, 3 day s ago that speaker was ok.How can I be sure that the problem is the driver, or the diaphragm? There are a lot of electronic circuits inside, maybe there is something out of order. Is there anything that I can check, with an AVO-meter,
You mentioned @4:23 that the replacement driver may have a plastic cover...but yours did not. I just wonder if that plastic cover you talk of should be removed, as a protective film would be, or is it an integral part of some tweeter models.
I have this speaker and I have replaced the HF coil 4 times. Why is it getting blown out all the time? It happens only on one speaker out of two. Can anyone help me out?
Did you have any problem getting the 17 screws out? I am starting my first repair and the screws are in TIGHT. I am affraid of stripping the heads. Any advice would be well recieved thanks!
Put a 4.7 ohms 10 watt resistance on the HF and it will not blow after that. Same happened to me and replaced the HF could 4 times then I added the resistance and it's been 5 years never went out.
Thanks, I'll try that. I take it that you put 4.7 ohms in series with the HF driver? Did adding the resistor notceably change the HF response at all i.e did they not sound a bit dull? I'll try it when I get all of the screws out.... I am guessing that when they assembled the cabinets they just 'shot' the screws in without pilot holes. I am having to use extreme pressure to stop the screwdriver from slipping. Luckily I have one with a hole in the handle that I can put a T-bar through.
Esta membrana no es la original, eso es chino, la original es azul con 8 mini agujeros en la suspensión. Y limpia el entre hierro, que no ves que puede haber suciedad o virutas de hierro que pueden cortar la bobina.
?!?!........You REALLY Shouldn't use a Powered screwdriver to take out the cabinet screws!! IF you strip the head on ANY of the screws, YOU'RE SCREWED!! Lol!! .........that said, it sure is a Bitch getting all those screws out!! Replacing the tweeter [or diaphragm] is the Easy part!!
I can't imagine many people needing to watch this video....but I DID!! Thanks for the help! I was going to send it away until I watched how easy it was to replace the driver diaphragm. You just saved me a bundle :)
Keep posting!!!!
Pete, I'm replacing one one of these today and you were the first video that came up!
Good to see you again, however one sided, and keep up the great work!
for anyone wondering how you test if a tweeter is indeed blown, test the impedance of the diagphram with a multimeter, it should read between 6-8 ohms, if its open circuit its fried. Also you can visually inspect the voice coil for damage, any burns or melts in the voicecoil is a failure and also for seperation of the voicecoil from the diaphram.
Damage is usally obvious just by looking at it.
Ive just had to carrie out a repair on 1 mackie srm 450 where the high end was not right, still working but less clear than the other matching speaker.
The voice coil was distorted and melted along alot of the track.
It still worked but didnt sound good.
When replacing a diaphram you need to clean out the voice coil channel to make sure its clean and free of debree otherwise you can end up with early failure of a new unit.
Thanks. Trying to get one of these back together and needed to confirm black stripe was negative....appreciate your help...b
When changing a diaphragm you should always check for debris in the voice coil cavity. Good video otherwise. I was just here to see how chunky/puny the drivers are but many people will find videos like this very useful. Keep 'em coming!
Do u need to clean the brown burn stain on the magnet ? Or just debris in the channel
Raz,
I'm not an electronics whiz. I posted my video as a "if I can do this repair ... you can too" sort of thing.
But I would guess that the repair described in my video would fix your speaker. It seems that the high frequency driver is the most vulnerable to damage/failure.
Wish I could be of more help. I guess you could use your multi-meter on the terminals and make sure that the signal matches that of your functioning SRM450. That would isolate the problem.
great instructional video. When I replaced my tweeter, its still not working i.e. muffled sound and no high end frequencies. This was the origional problem. Do you think it could be the Amp ? Our local speaker repair wants $350 to repair it, and I can buy a used Mackie for that price anyway ! Advice ?
Thanx bro good video .that was exactly what I need
Need to clean the diagram crack and shop vac it to get the blown debre out of the slot before putting in a new one , the dirt can destroy the new driver coils
I think it's more of a sound than a sight that lets you know the speaker is fried. With a large speaker you can probably see physical damage to the materials on the loudspeaker, but with a small high-frequency driver like this. It's more of a sound that indicates the problem. I didn't hear this particular one, but I would guess that muffled sound, rattling with the sound, or NO sound would tell you that the driver might be damaged.
@HipfishMonthly
Um , you didn't change a driver - you changed a DIAPHRAM !
Thanks for the vid - I'd have puzzled over the top screw !
I am having issues getting the screws to turn, any advice?
Did you get the extension?? .... if you got the extension and you're able to reach the screws I don't know why they might be harder to pull out. I even did a few screws with a LONG hand-heltdscrewdriver. I did two screws with that before I went out and bought an extension : )
Thanks . nice video . I need to change the led light . What type of cabinet screws are they ? Thanks for sharing
I'm afraid that I don't remember. It was a long time ago. Sorry.
You say you are replacing the driver but isn't that the diaphragm that you replaced? I looked online as my horn is not working and I found a driver and a diaphragm available as a fix for this, how can you tell which one it is?
Hi, I had a problem with one of my SRM450 last evening, just before the party had to start. There was no sound coming from the tweeter (ore high freq.driver, as you name it). The only sound came from the bass (low freq.driver)
I have no ideea what happened, 3 day s ago that speaker was ok.How can I be sure that the problem is the driver, or the diaphragm? There are a lot of electronic circuits inside, maybe there is something out of order. Is there anything that I can check, with an AVO-meter,
Hi
Which driver goes on Mackie Srm 450???Thanks
You mentioned @4:23 that the replacement driver may have a plastic cover...but yours did not.
I just wonder if that plastic cover you talk of should be removed, as a protective film would be, or is it an integral part of some tweeter models.
Can you tell me the size of the voice coil that you replace,is it 44mm 1.75 inch,waitin for your respond..
I am afraid that I don't remember. Did I mention a vendor in the video??? It was so long ago. The vendor would know.
@@PeteBuchwald ok man thank you for respond,appreciate it..
do you know a website that have the side handles because i need to replace about 10
Hi, what size are the 17 screws?
Where do you order the driver? I have a Mackie with the same issue. Price?
how much price in this box???
This was a long time ago. But the entire speaker was worth $300, the replacement driver was $50.
Do you thing this will work for the 450v2 as well??
I am afraid that I'm not familiar with the V2. But if you discover that it is different, similar, or the same, please let us know!
Great job though!!!
at what point in the video? Maybe I can clarify. Sorry about that.
I didn't had to remove mine like your I just unscrew the amplifier and it right there instant open the hole box
n 350 or nd 350?
Surprised they don't use a magnetic fluid on the drive coil.
I need power system behind
n 450?
I have this speaker and I have replaced the HF coil 4 times. Why is it getting blown out all the time? It happens only on one speaker out of two. Can anyone help me out?
Did you have any problem getting the 17 screws out? I am starting my first repair and the screws are in TIGHT. I am affraid of stripping the heads. Any advice would be well recieved thanks!
Put a 4.7 ohms 10 watt resistance on the HF and it will not blow after that. Same happened to me and replaced the HF could 4 times then I added the resistance and it's been 5 years never went out.
Thanks, I'll try that. I take it that you put 4.7 ohms in series with the HF driver? Did adding the resistor notceably change the HF response at all i.e did they not sound a bit dull? I'll try it when I get all of the screws out.... I am guessing that when they assembled the cabinets they just 'shot' the screws in without pilot holes. I am having to use extreme pressure to stop the screwdriver from slipping. Luckily I have one with a hole in the handle that I can put a T-bar through.
Wayne .... you probably have to contact Mackie for a large, specific order of parts like that. Sorry.
its way easier to just take the woofer off, reach the driver with your arm turn it to unscrew it. waaaaaaay easier...
Camilo Pasin impossible to do. tried last week. You really have to open the all monitor
I got mine from Orange County Speaker. $75 or so.
Esta membrana no es la original, eso es chino, la original es azul con 8 mini agujeros en la suspensión. Y limpia el entre hierro, que no ves que puede haber suciedad o virutas de hierro que pueden cortar la bobina.
omg stop counting the screws
?!?!........You REALLY Shouldn't use a Powered screwdriver to take out the cabinet screws!! IF you strip the head on ANY of the screws, YOU'RE SCREWED!! Lol!!
.........that said, it sure is a Bitch getting all those screws out!! Replacing the tweeter [or diaphragm] is the Easy part!!
why did you view away from the one part i wanted to see. booo