I have to say, the fact that you left in the footage of you knocking the tank off your improvised painting handle is a perfect example of why I like watching your channel
Also if it isn't my scale, it's a really beautiful model, remember me of the old Roco Minitanks (1/87), also if the most famous model of it was from Matchbox. In an old documentary I saw they said that was scandalous that such a tank had been produced only near the end of the war, when it could've been produced at least two yrs earlier.
This was great! I will use this on my 1/72 British armor and a few other 15mm tanks as well. I use the Typhus Corrosion too and I have always felt that the GW shades and effect paints like this are the best of their paint line. Thanks for sharing this.
Just a comment passing on a discovery from one of his more recent videos: the new agrax and nuln give an effect similar to the old IF you water them down 50% with Lamian. So for a similar effect to his wash in this, you'd want 75% lamian, 25% new wash.
Looks great. One of my favorite things about your channel recently (in the last year or so) is all the weathering you're doing. Also, love "no, more is more".
'Less is more' is one of those phrases that shouldn't, but absolutely drives me up the wall with how silly it is on reflection. No, c'mon - more is more! 😂 But *sometimes* more can be too much.
Blimey Troy. That looks amazing 👍. Really interesting techniques with a great result. I’d stick with Vallejo bronze green for my British armour, but everything else will work great. Thanks
Bronze Green seems just a fraction dark at this scale, but that might be my eyes as much as anything else. 😅 I've seen it used to great effect on 1/56 scale stuff and larger!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I don’t have anything 15mm so I can see your point. I game in 20 mm and 28 mm so it works ok. Definitely agree as you go smaller in scale you need to use brighter colours especially in 6mm.
@@andyshaw5378 hi, I'm kind of new to this hobby, so I hope you don't mind me asking a simple question. :) I was wondering what exactly the 15/20/28 mm is referring to. All I can think of is 15*72, 20*48 and 28*35 is all close to 1 meter. So in this scale 15mm on the model is 1m on the original. Is that what it means or am I wrong here?
@@TwiceEvery14Days yes it’s all about the size. There two ways to describe it metric in mm or imperial 1/?. Typically war gaming is done with figures 28mm (1/56) or smaller. Most of my gaming is with 20mm (1/72) there are some conversion tables on Google which will help. Painting wise the bigger the model the more detail you need to paint. Smaller easier it’s just smaller. Hope that helps.
You've found a couple so far! ;D Unfortunately, TH-cam doesn't let me just link directly in comments, but if you type 'how i paint things british tanks' into a search you'll get what you're looking for. Early war vehicles, caunter, desert camo - and just leave off the splotches if you want that plain, sunbaked beige look.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio You're very kind but I've got a specific problem. I've got some HKVDC armoured cars for the Battle of Hong Kong 1941 and I'm a little unsure how to create the correct shade of green - and some grainy photos even show camouflage!
Looks great now I just need some FoW Brits! As a vallejo/army painter replacement for Nurgling Green what would you suggest? The conversion charts Ive seen suggest Middlestone(?) / Green Sky and Scaly Hide / Necrotic green. I'm leaning necrotic green personally.
Necrotic Green is probably the closest, or Combat Fatigues for a slightly more grey-touched finish. I also really like Middlestone - it's slightly more yellow than Nurgling Green would be, but that'll still work nicely at this scale.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio yes I'm doing some American half tracks at moment so watching how you got the dirt look and chipping on edges will come in very handy I'm also painting up some 15mm Iraq troops just to have a break from 28mm
I can't help but feel it looks a bit naked without the markings, but hey, sometimes, no decals means saving half a year (and gods know how much research), so... gorgeous-looking in any case.
Thanks for this tutorial your work is amazing I have a Soviet army that I want to paint but the enamel washes the fumes are bothering me and I like the acrylic paints better.
The Strong Tone will be a slightly different colour, maybe a little darker, but with Lahmian Medium it should work fairly similarly to how the Agrax does.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio one of the things I love about your channel isnt just that you have a very practical approach to painting, but you also have a wonderful sense of humor.
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I have to say, the fact that you left in the footage of you knocking the tank off your improvised painting handle is a perfect example of why I like watching your channel
Couldnt agree more, it makes me feel less clumsy. Its nice to know this sort of thing happens to the best of us LOL. As always great vid
I have a box of these waiting to be painted now I have no excuse. I have seen it done Properly. Thanks Troy!
Looks really nice! I would love to see more of these tutorials!👍🍻
Thank you , Troy .
🐺
Oh no the comet fell to earth haha, another great video Sonic thanks again.
Thank you. I needed some advice and inspiration on my Cromwells.
And what is a Comet if not a big Cromwell, right? 😂
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Ah yes!! Fine machinery, both!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio More a better armed Cromwell.....
Thanks! Love your painting videos! Tanks FTW!
Also if it isn't my scale, it's a really beautiful model, remember me of the old Roco Minitanks (1/87), also if the most famous model of it was from Matchbox. In an old documentary I saw they said that was scandalous that such a tank had been produced only near the end of the war, when it could've been produced at least two yrs earlier.
This was great! I will use this on my 1/72 British armor and a few other 15mm tanks as well. I use the Typhus Corrosion too and I have always felt that the GW shades and effect paints like this are the best of their paint line. Thanks for sharing this.
Just a comment passing on a discovery from one of his more recent videos: the new agrax and nuln give an effect similar to the old IF you water them down 50% with Lamian. So for a similar effect to his wash in this, you'd want 75% lamian, 25% new wash.
I like your hand painted tanks.
Looks great. One of my favorite things about your channel recently (in the last year or so) is all the weathering you're doing. Also, love "no, more is more".
'Less is more' is one of those phrases that shouldn't, but absolutely drives me up the wall with how silly it is on reflection. No, c'mon - more is more! 😂 But *sometimes* more can be too much.
That looks great !!! Hey can you paint up an American M1 Abrams for Team Yankee in the MERDC camouflage scheme. If you can’t no big deal. Cheers 🍻
Great tutorial and I am really impressed by your technique for the lights. I’ll give that a try on my 1/72nd vehicles.
I paint my 1/56 stuff just the same way - that moon shape and couple of dots works on anything!
Excellent video and I really did enjoy the fact you didn't need to airbrush the tank 😅 saves plenty of time!
Good stuff, i love the comets! Yours look great mate!
Perfect timing...I have the FoW British armoured set coming on Tuesday.
Nice! There's some great army boxes for FoW.
Blimey Troy. That looks amazing 👍. Really interesting techniques with a great result. I’d stick with Vallejo bronze green for my British armour, but everything else will work great. Thanks
Bronze Green seems just a fraction dark at this scale, but that might be my eyes as much as anything else. 😅 I've seen it used to great effect on 1/56 scale stuff and larger!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I don’t have anything 15mm so I can see your point. I game in 20 mm and 28 mm so it works ok. Definitely agree as you go smaller in scale you need to use brighter colours especially in 6mm.
@@andyshaw5378 hi, I'm kind of new to this hobby, so I hope you don't mind me asking a simple question. :) I was wondering what exactly the 15/20/28 mm is referring to. All I can think of is 15*72, 20*48 and 28*35 is all close to 1 meter. So in this scale 15mm on the model is 1m on the original. Is that what it means or am I wrong here?
@@TwiceEvery14Days yes it’s all about the size. There two ways to describe it metric in mm or imperial 1/?. Typically war gaming is done with figures 28mm (1/56) or smaller. Most of my gaming is with 20mm (1/72) there are some conversion tables on Google which will help. Painting wise the bigger the model the more detail you need to paint. Smaller easier it’s just smaller. Hope that helps.
@@andyshaw5378 that helps, thanks!
Nicely done.
Very cool! Thanks for sharing. 😎🇨🇦
Superb video as always. I'm struggling to find a similar guide for early war British armour.
You've found a couple so far! ;D Unfortunately, TH-cam doesn't let me just link directly in comments, but if you type 'how i paint things british tanks' into a search you'll get what you're looking for. Early war vehicles, caunter, desert camo - and just leave off the splotches if you want that plain, sunbaked beige look.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio You're very kind but I've got a specific problem. I've got some HKVDC armoured cars for the Battle of Hong Kong 1941 and I'm a little unsure how to create the correct shade of green - and some grainy photos even show camouflage!
Looks great now I just need some FoW Brits! As a vallejo/army painter replacement for Nurgling Green what would you suggest? The conversion charts Ive seen suggest Middlestone(?) / Green Sky and Scaly Hide / Necrotic green. I'm leaning necrotic green personally.
Necrotic Green is probably the closest, or Combat Fatigues for a slightly more grey-touched finish. I also really like Middlestone - it's slightly more yellow than Nurgling Green would be, but that'll still work nicely at this scale.
Nice job mate not complicated but gives a excellent result 👍
Cheers! I don't like fuss if I can avoid it. 😅 British armour is about the easiest thing possible for late war games, so it gets a pass from me!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio yes I'm doing some American half tracks at moment so watching how you got the dirt look and chipping on edges will come in very handy I'm also painting up some 15mm Iraq troops just to have a break from 28mm
I can't help but feel it looks a bit naked without the markings, but hey, sometimes, no decals means saving half a year (and gods know how much research), so... gorgeous-looking in any case.
I'd wondered about trying to freehand some unit markings and then thought better of it... 😅
Thanks for this tutorial your work is amazing I have a Soviet army that I want to paint but the enamel washes the fumes are bothering me and I like the acrylic paints better.
CAn you do a fast paint german one please brah.
Great show soinc can you use one bottle of strong tone and a bottle of games workshop new new lameim media
The Strong Tone will be a slightly different colour, maybe a little darker, but with Lahmian Medium it should work fairly similarly to how the Agrax does.
cool. Why not pop decals, and bit of stowage on, you could show a OOB and one with a little extra added detail and so on
I think I mentioned not having any decals, and I know I don't have any 15mm stowage lurking in the bits drawer. 😅
13:45 what happens when you over modulate. 😂
Just a little too much pepper sauce on that one!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio one of the things I love about your channel isnt just that you have a very practical approach to painting, but you also have a wonderful sense of humor.