Hi 😊 I have watched all your videos very helpful I have come to the conclusion after checking the resistance on the wires you said to check it's open circuit no good any where. Also since it happened the battery charger goes red green and the display beeps while charging the display goes in and out. Can you help me find a circuit board for my G30LP scooter thanks ❤
I have been watching your TH-cam which are great, and was hoping id be able to diagnose my son's iscooter, but am still struggling. About a year ago now, my son complained about his iscooter. upon inspection, the electronic dashboard would light up and immediately turn back off when switching on. I would attempt to turn it on again, but nothing would happen until approx 5 minutes later when it would do the same again. I attempted to charge the battery, but the charger would flash, indicating that it was not charging. I disconnected all wires, ran out of time and completely forgot about it until I came across your videos. Since then, I had lost the charger but found a compatible one that just needed the charging port plug to be changed. I connected the battery to the charging port of the scooter, and the battery started charging until fully charged. After it was charged, I removed the charger and reconnected all the other wires, and it all turned on and worked perfectly. Then today, I went to put it all back together, so I placed the battery and controller back into the scooter and thought I'd double-check that everything was working one last time before I continued. I turned the iscooter on, and history repeated itself where the display would light up and immediately turn off. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks
That would normally indicate a problem with the battery. So, with a multimeter at hand, attempt to start the scooter. If it fails do not plug in the charger. You now have to check the battery voltage. Let me know how you go.
@octapc Battery is giving off the correct voltage. However, I have since dissasembled the battery pack, and saw that the input and output wire casing was damaged, potentially causing a short circuit. I've de-soldered the wires, removed the damaged pieces of wires and re-soldered. It all seems to be working now. Fingers crossed it stays that way. Many thanks for your help 😉
I usually hot a spark when connecting the battery andnthen the display would turn on but then turn off a minute later. It also worked for longer once then whilst riding it cut oit again and now i vantnproduce the spark when connecting the battery although i have a 38 -39vokts at the battery and to the controller. I had a new display and controller but it just wont turn on.nthe mosfets seem all to be good when checking the multimeter.....i am lost
@@octapc no its a different controller which came with its own display, it was working but now nothing. I have checked the resistance of the motor wires and continuity i got some equal readings for both original and new controller. I have 39volts coming to the controller and i have even confirmed that the connector is transferring the power to the wires into controller. The headlight aint working but like i said it ran. Why it shuts off i dont know but now after riding it it has only turned on once for 2 seconds then it shut off. ..the original set up showed a possible e14 fault so i did a reset and it worked briefly then shut off hence all the new controller and display. Its a ewheels m2v2 i believe. The motor spins freely and everything went fine up to 25km/hr 2days sgo. Now its deadbagain. The battery i am inspecting now. Looks fine. Any ideas?
I'm sorry about the major delay in replying , so this is Paul, and I do have a multi meter now and I'm not sure if there's a model name but the brand is called " speedrid " I check everything , but you said even though the battery reads correctly that still doesn't mean that it good or enough to power up the scooter. It's Two years old but I've only used it maybe 15 times never ran it down to empty the problem is it don't power up . I did Pierce a couple wires putting the hub cover cap back on the front wheel motor tire fix road it once and pulling into the driveway it stopped completely. Have any ideas? Thank you!
i have 4 different controllers that, each one at a different time, half broke with a very strange problem. One of them worked perfectly for 8 months, another for only 2 weeks. One is 100W, another is 500W, and i have a 350W and a big 3000W. And they are doing the same on 3 different engines, but these 3 engine works fine with a new 14$ cheap controller. Now my 4 controllers are all doing the same strange thing: they work fine to keep speed on flat or downhill. The faster the wheel turn, the more effort they can go while still working. But specially at low speed, if i put more "effort" on the engine, by trying to accelerate, or if i go uphill, they cause the engine to make a strange sharp noise, and go no power (free-wheel), and if i don't let go of the accelerator, then these controllers goes into safety mode and turn off. I can't find anything about that on internet. But my 4 totally different controllers are doing this, it's so strange. Using them with or without the hall sensor does not change anything. And my new 14$ controller works perfectly on all my engine without hall sensors connected. if anyone has any clue or any internet link to the same problem, that would be much appreciated.
I now have a multi meter where do I start considering it's 36v battery and doesn't power up I've only rode this thing about 15- 17 hours total in a eight month period.
If you recharge the battery and the scooter goes again then the battery should be fine. However, if the range is reduced, then you have a battery problem. Controllers can cause vibration in the motor under load or that the motor won't turn at all. However, F series ninebot has a problem with broken cable to the motor.
I like how you explain that it makes sense to someone who doesn't necessarily know exactly what they're looking at. Thank you, I have one question. Because my multimeter is different than yours. And the Homestead doesn't have just one setting it has. 2m 2ook 20k 2k 200 And one that looks sort of like a sideways Wi-Fi icon on your phone. Since I don't really understand a lot of tricks to really great.I have one question.Which one of those settings is appropriate for the task ? Cause I don't actually understand what those settings mean. And this pulcivo multimeter. Well, the people that solve it cheat doubt and it did not come with an instruction manual.
There is an update video because of the rambling in this video. But that one isn't great either but more on topic and deeper. I will edit out the first 4 minutes to reduce the rambling and upload it in due course.
![How to spot a fault in a circuit, like a pro : hands on electronics [1]](/img/n.gif)
Fast forward to the 4 minute mark as I talk about a motor.
video on motor wire fix??????
Hi 😊 I have watched all your videos very helpful I have come to the conclusion after checking the resistance on the wires you said to check it's open circuit no good any where. Also since it happened the battery charger goes red green and the display beeps while charging the display goes in and out. Can you help me find a circuit board for my G30LP scooter thanks ❤
I have been watching your TH-cam which are great, and was hoping id be able to diagnose my son's iscooter, but am still struggling.
About a year ago now, my son complained about his iscooter. upon inspection, the electronic dashboard would light up and immediately turn back off when switching on. I would attempt to turn it on again, but nothing would happen until approx 5 minutes later when it would do the same again. I attempted to charge the battery, but the charger would flash, indicating that it was not charging. I disconnected all wires, ran out of time and completely forgot about it until I came across your videos.
Since then, I had lost the charger but found a compatible one that just needed the charging port plug to be changed. I connected the battery to the charging port of the scooter, and the battery started charging until fully charged. After it was charged, I removed the charger and reconnected all the other wires, and it all turned on and worked perfectly.
Then today, I went to put it all back together, so I placed the battery and controller back into the scooter and thought I'd double-check that everything was working one last time before I continued. I turned the iscooter on, and history repeated itself where the display would light up and immediately turn off.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
That would normally indicate a problem with the battery. So, with a multimeter at hand, attempt to start the scooter. If it fails do not plug in the charger. You now have to check the battery voltage. Let me know how you go.
@octapc Battery is giving off the correct voltage. However, I have since dissasembled the battery pack, and saw that the input and output wire casing was damaged, potentially causing a short circuit. I've de-soldered the wires, removed the damaged pieces of wires and re-soldered. It all seems to be working now. Fingers crossed it stays that way. Many thanks for your help 😉
I usually hot a spark when connecting the battery andnthen the display would turn on but then turn off a minute later. It also worked for longer once then whilst riding it cut oit again and now i vantnproduce the spark when connecting the battery although i have a 38 -39vokts at the battery and to the controller. I had a new display and controller but it just wont turn on.nthe mosfets seem all to be good when checking the multimeter.....i am lost
@@brettrickards Are the new display and controller the same as the original?
@@octapc no its a different controller which came with its own display, it was working but now nothing. I have checked the resistance of the motor wires and continuity i got some equal readings for both original and new controller. I have 39volts coming to the controller and i have even confirmed that the connector is transferring the power to the wires into controller. The headlight aint working but like i said it ran. Why it shuts off i dont know but now after riding it it has only turned on once for 2 seconds then it shut off. ..the original set up showed a possible e14 fault so i did a reset and it worked briefly then shut off hence all the new controller and display. Its a ewheels m2v2 i believe. The motor spins freely and everything went fine up to 25km/hr 2days sgo. Now its deadbagain.
The battery i am inspecting now. Looks fine.
Any ideas?
I'm sorry about the major delay in replying , so this is Paul, and I do have a multi meter now and I'm not sure if there's a model name but the brand is called " speedrid " I check everything , but you said even though the battery reads correctly that still doesn't mean that it good or enough to power up the scooter. It's Two years old but I've only used it maybe 15 times never ran it down to empty the problem is it don't power up . I did Pierce a couple wires putting the hub cover cap back on the front wheel motor tire fix road it once and pulling into the driveway it stopped completely. Have any ideas? Thank you!
Hi, you haven't told me which brand and model the scooter is.
The only name I have for the scooter from the Manuel is " Speedrid electric scooter A1 so the Brand " Speedrid " model " A1" ?
when you say it doesn't power up, you mean the display doesn't light up, or it won't move?
@@octapc yeah, display is dead and it won't move .
i have 4 different controllers that, each one at a different time, half broke with a very strange problem. One of them worked perfectly for 8 months, another for only 2 weeks. One is 100W, another is 500W, and i have a 350W and a big 3000W. And they are doing the same on 3 different engines, but these 3 engine works fine with a new 14$ cheap controller. Now my 4 controllers are all doing the same strange thing: they work fine to keep speed on flat or downhill. The faster the wheel turn, the more effort they can go while still working.
But specially at low speed, if i put more "effort" on the engine, by trying to accelerate, or if i go uphill, they cause the engine to make a strange sharp noise, and go no power (free-wheel), and if i don't let go of the accelerator, then these controllers goes into safety mode and turn off.
I can't find anything about that on internet. But my 4 totally different controllers are doing this, it's so strange.
Using them with or without the hall sensor does not change anything. And my new 14$ controller works perfectly on all my engine without hall sensors connected.
if anyone has any clue or any internet link to the same problem, that would be much appreciated.
I now have a multi meter where do I start considering it's 36v battery and doesn't power up I've only rode this thing about 15- 17 hours total in a eight month period.
Which brand and model is it?
How do you know if the scooter slows down then shuts off if its the battery or controller? Thanks
If you recharge the battery and the scooter goes again then the battery should be fine. However, if the range is reduced, then you have a battery problem. Controllers can cause vibration in the motor under load or that the motor won't turn at all. However, F series ninebot has a problem with broken cable to the motor.
@octapc wow that was very helpful, have a blessed 🙌 day
I like how you explain that it makes sense to someone who doesn't necessarily know exactly what they're looking at. Thank you, I have one question. Because my multimeter is different than yours. And the Homestead doesn't have just one setting it has. 2m 2ook 20k 2k 200 And one that looks sort of like a sideways Wi-Fi icon on your phone. Since I don't really understand a lot of tricks to really great.I have one question.Which one of those settings is appropriate for the task ? Cause I don't actually understand what those settings mean. And this pulcivo multimeter. Well, the people that solve it cheat doubt and it did not come with an instruction manual.
Take a photo and send to perthelectricscooterrepairs@gmail.com
where is the photo? :)
OKI hope you caught that butt where it said Homestead. It was supposed to say ohm setting.
TH-cam doesn't know the word Ohms 😂
O.L is Open Loop.
FLUKE WEBSITE says: If the measurement is higher than the set range, the multimeter will display OL (overload)
@octapc if not connected to a circuit? Open loop.
Why ramble like that. People click on because if what ur title says not to hear ramblings
There is an update video because of the rambling in this video. But that one isn't great either but more on topic and deeper. I will edit out the first 4 minutes to reduce the rambling and upload it in due course.
@@electricwheelsaustralia130 all good mate I was just frustrated at the time ..thanks for putting something up to help people out