#58 ESP8266 Sensor runs 17 days on a coin cell/transmits data (deep-sleep)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 พ.ค. 2024
- In this episode I show how a ESP-07 or ESP-12 measures its voltage and transmits it to data.sparkfun.com and ubidots.com. If it transmits every 2 minutes, it ran 26 hours on a small LIR2450 button cell. If it would transmit each hour, it would last for 17 days and on 2 AA batteries 425 days.
Sketch: github.com/SensorsIot/ESP8266...
Rainer Ochs: www.esp8266.com/viewtopic.php?...
Base64: www.base64encode.org/
HT7333 voltage regulator:s.click.aliexpress.com/e/ciskloDS
Official Wemos Store: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/jUzBiIq
Calculator to calculate running time: battery-life.of-things.de/batt... or batterylifecalculator.iobot.in/
If you want to support the channel and buy from Banggood: bit.ly/2jAQEf4 (no additional charges for you)
/ andreas-spiess-7331894...
/ spiessa - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Fantastic. Love the clarity of your explanations and the level of detail that you include. It has given me lots of ideas to experiment with and your Sketch is a wonderful starting point. You make life with the ESP8266 much easier that it would otherwise be.
Thanks for your nice comment. I am glad I can help. This is why I do my videos. I also learn a lot from other videos.
Thank you for the time you take to make these videos, and for sharing your knowledge!
You are welcome. I am glad if people like you watch them. So, it is worth the work...
Thanks for posting such detailed work in this series. Very appreciated!
You are welcome!
Brilliant video +Andreas Spiess, thanks.
+Johan van den berg You are welcome!
17 people have pressed the dislike button,, Seriously?! the guy is giving you free knowledge and you give back a dislike!
+Ehab Saleh ايهاب صالح There are always a few dislikes. But usually without comment.
There is no need to worry about dislikes on a video. Consider them as "noises".
probably uncontrolled spasms of excitement
Some people press dislike accidentally and never notice. And it goes from grey to black which is really far from a bright idea :)
They are battery sellers. Any information regarding low power usage sucks.
Thank You for Valuable Videos and Your Time. I appreciate all!
You are welcome!
Excellent video, Andreas. Great info on the regulators! :)
Thanks!
Great coverage, Andreas. Keep them coming!
+m t Thanks!. The next two are already in the works.
Thank You again Andreas for this well presented and elaborate project.
I learned a lot in this short time, I was not aware of the HT73xx , great thing to use in my future projects.
Thank You again and stay safe.
Best Regards,
Didier (From Belgium ... The country of the best chocolates in the world ;) )
I kept pausing to go and buy things LOL
For example, those HT7333's have replaced my LM1117's now after this great video !
Very enjoyable and informative Andreas, thanks.
I think, the HT7333 are a very good replacement for the 1117 and not very expensive...
LoL
I did that with the last video of his I watched. :)
worth pointing out that there is some tradeoff between quiescent current and maximum input voltage; HT7333 only goes up to 12v; LM1117 up to 20v, last time I looked this seemed consistent across LDOs
And 250mA max but the LM1117 thing will run way too hot at 20V...even at 12V with a high enough current draw
use MCP1703 or MIC5219 (if you need to be able control flow) instead
I ran my ESP8266 from a 400mah Li-Ion battery for 20 days, measuring battery voltage at 10 minute intervals. Thanks again for your awesome and inspiring videos!
+xennelul Thanks for your feedback. Glad it worked
It was a great work, Mr. Andreas.
Thanks for sharing and very helpful information.
Respects...
You are welcome!
You make excellent videos! Thank you for your work and educating others (like me)!
You're welcome!
episode numbers: +1, english much improved: +1, calculations explained: +1 ... you're awesome, thanks for these nice and informative videos!!
+Henry van Megen Thank you for the nice comment.
Andereas great video(s). I really like the way you approach the subjects. Really great work(s) and appreciate it!!
Thank you!
Thanks for your nice comment!
I have to say, I love it. I already learned more than I expected today!
+Robert Kesek Very good! Thank you for your nice comments.
I have not seen anyone explain better than you
Thank you♥
Thank you for your compliment!
I'm from the other side of the Alps, I enjoyed your video, well done.
And obviously I subscribed.
We here love your side of the alps (especially in these cold times)...
Thanks Andreas, I've often wondered how to calculate loads vs capacity. Using ma/sec and cycles makes sense.
:-)
Outstanding, complete and clear work. Second time I stumble upon one of your videos, I'm definitely a subscriber now :)
+Jeremie Francois Thank you for subscribing! Statistics show, that still 75% of my views come from not-subscribed viewers...
Andreas Spiess yep, I am also surprised that my 20K views/month blog is also invariably and overwhelmingly composed of newcomers. The outer world is always bigger I guess :)
Really enjoyed this video and found it very informative, its fantastic to be able to learn like this. Thank you Mr Spiess
You are welcome! There are a few more videos on ESP8266 and the newer ESP32 on my channel...
Really appreciate your great work on these videos. Tremendously instructive!
Thank you!
Thanks Andreas for another great video. I've learned a few things today.
You are welcome!
Sure is an interesting topic to give the best attention possible. For sure my dear Switzerland accent guy, that was a delightful explanation of battery consumption on ESP-8266 module.
Thanks a lot for sharing soo good knowledge..! 😃😃
You are welcome!
Always good!! Very informative and detailed, I didn't know much though, sorry. Thank you. I am learning new things watching your hard works.
:-)
Hi Andreas, Hope you are keeping well..
I am not a technical person your explanations in this video is very easy to understand. I watched on ESP 8266 more than 100 video really its very helpful in my project.
Thank you for your feedback. I am happy if my videos are helpful for others achieving their goals.
Excelent video! Congratulations and thank's for sharing with us!
You're welcome! I also learned a lot with TH-cam.
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
+educ8s.tv You are welcome.
Sehr Interesantes Video!
Sie haben die Spannungsregler und Kondensatoren (im video #47) wahl methode sehr gut erklären. Vielen dank für teilen ihre Ergebnis.
Bitte, gern geschehen!
Thanks for the explanations. This regulator will help me a lot.
Glad to help!
Wow! Awesome. I live your solution for current spike. Thanks.
You are welcome!
Hi, i watched almost all your videos yesterday. They are great, full of precious information! Thank you for doing them :)
I would like to ask a more general question. What do you think is the most efficient way (less heat - and not too expensive components) to step down 12V to 5V and 3.3V for Arduinos and ESP8266 to be used in the same project?
Thank you!
Video is a little old, but, THANK YOU VERY MUCH for all the time you put in to give so much knowledge back to the WORLD. Always enjoy you r videos lessons.
Thank you!
Thank you Adreas, very usefull information.
You are welcome!
Wow! Thanks for your time creating this great videos :)
You're welcome!
Excellent video, interesting educational and practical - I've enjoined watching it.
Thanks for the compliment!
These videos are great!
Many thanks!!
Glad you like them!
Well explained sir !
Thanks for sharing.
+Mrityunjai Kumar You are welcome.
Good work,I am glade to see the wonderful video,thank you!
This video solve my lots question
Good to know that I can help!
Very good explanation with all hardware details!
Thank you for your compliment!
Fantastic work!
Another great video . Congratulations on teaching.
Thanks!
Very informative and very well presented!
+arcadeuk Thank you for your nice comment!
Really impressive. Thanks for this Video. Very interesting.
You're welcome!
Excellent video. Exactly what I'm interested in when it comes to smarthome nodes based on the eps8266. I would send the data to my in-house openHAB server running on Raspi2, but that's the same from the viewpoint of the esp8266. My witty boards are in the mail and I can't wait to experiment with them.
+Frerk Meyer The witty boards might use current higher current also in sleep mode unless you disconnect the base PCB (which contain the serial to USB chip) and disconnect the LM1117 power regulator which is on the board itself. Or you do not need deep sleep. Then, the witty boards are ok.
Talk about "Power Napping"!
~excellent presentation~
Thanks!
Brilliant video! thanks for this!!
You are welcome!
Hi Andreas! Very good video, again.
Just one tiny remark: If you have no connection from GPIO16 to reset pin, the ESP does not stay in deep sleep. It (kind of) wakes up in a weird state and does not continue to run the code, but consumes about 15mA. So that's even worse than staying in deep sleep. ;-)
+Zebrahuhn Thanks for this addition. I did not try it myself.
Thank you for the great videos, they seriously are very inspiring!
With respect to battery runtime I am still trying to figure out which is the best minimal setup for a bare ESP12F module (using FTDI for programming). I understand that you need the following pins connected: CH_PD/EN => Pullup; GPIO0 => Pullup (for running; GND for programming); GPIO15 => Pulldown. And, for stability reasons: GPIO02 => Pullup; RST => Pullup; Electrolytic capacitor 1000uF between VCC and GND (as pointed out in one of your videos).
What are the best values for the external resistors (sometimes I read 10k and sometimes “the smaller the better”) if I am looking for minimal energy consumption and/or stability? Some pins have internal pullup/-down resistors would they be a better choice than external ones? And does the maximum voltage level of a capacitor does have any influence on energy consumption?
I know, a lot of questions, but maybe you can help shed some light?
1. 10k should be ok
2. Big tantalum capacitors have a leakage current of a few uA. Conventional capacitors should be better
Thanks for your post. Most interesting.
You are welcome!
Very well explained
Thank you!
Please put the next episode on the FedEx truck, I can't wait to see more! The suspense is killing me. I took a cursory look at the code but can't figure it out. I have an esp8266 adafruit feather with a 3.7v lion 500mah battery and was getting just 4 1/2 days updating "adafruit io" once every hour. The esp would only go to sleep for one hour max. Great video, I don't see where you find the time for all this stuff.
+Revelation612 The feather has also other chips which might use current even if the ESP is in deep sleep (e.g. USB interface). This board is probably better for development.
almost a year late... but great video, thanks so much i learned a bit, time to start researching everything deeper
Thanks! There are a few other videos from me concerning this topic. You find them in a playlist
Excellent video thank very much Andreas!!!
You're welcome!
Thank you for the information.
:-)
Hi Andreas, I have managed to descrease esp 12F's Power consumption to 159uA by removing the LDO of Wemos d1 mini I Power it with my custom deep sleep wake shield. The shield is using 100nf in parallel with 100uF in paralel capacitors to HT7333 then HT7333 3.3v output is connected to 100nF polyester film capacitor for filtering purposes then I added 1000uA 3000 hour lifetime %5 capacitor to reduce peaks as you mentioned in the video. Then this Power circuit Powers my deep sleep wake part of the circuit and that circuit itself with Power components just draw 1uA😀 I also watched your PIR sensor videos and I have choosen HC-SR-501 and modified it by removing Diode cause it was lowering the voltage and removed LDO of it then I bridged VIN and VOut of LDO pins now it draws 36,38 uA when it is idle. When my sensor detects movement the wake circuit wakes esp12F from deep sleep and keeps it open until task is done then it goes to deep sleep again. With modified HC-SR-501 PIR sensor my sensors total current draw is 210uA in deep sleep with clone wemos d1 mini😀 with my calculations it will Last for 346 days with 2000mAh Lithium-Ion battery with 3.8 volts with single charge. Thanks for tips for lowering Power. I am also full time 12 years of experience C, C++ and C# programmer so lowering run times was easy. You can lower your connection time even more. My sensors connects the wifi gateway in 500,600ms if you specify mac address😉 I might remove the blue LED as you suggested for lowering consumption even more! Thanks! Keep the content coming we love it😀
Very good work! And thank you for the writeup! With this low current consumption I probably would go for standard batteries as Li-Ion batteries do self-discharging.
Good job sir!
Thanks!
Thank you very much for this awesome and very helpful video! I'm going to give the HT7333 a try now! I hope the module is not too tiny so I'll be able to solder wires to the pins. Do you use a special soldering iron for SMD parts? Greetings from Germany, btw! I don't mind the Swiss accent at all. I like the fact that you speak slowly in the video, so it's easy for me to follow. :-)
Thank you for your nice words! No, I use the normal soldering iron or a hot air gun if I have to solder more than one part.
lol i read ubidiots.com instead of ubidots.com when clicking. great content as always. i'll have those HT7333's in my mind to enhance some projects. thanks!
+rodstartube The first ;-)
Thanks you very much for knowledge
You are welcome!
great info as ever . very clear and easy to fallow .
+XerotoLabs You are one of my "closest" subscribers. Thanks a lot.
+Andreas Spiess you have a great way of explaining stuff and your videos always provide new things for me to think about . now i have a use for all those old Lion and Nimh cordless phone batteries ( N size cells) I have and one si can get form clearance outlets for cheap. I used to use them for ODL R/C stuff before lipo's became a thing . I wonde rhow long and how small a pack you could make using the inner aaaa cells in a '9'v nimh battery ( 7.2v IIRC , some were 8.2 or 9.6v ) . i used to take them apart t get the tiny cells to make my R/C glider's radio packs. those cells were sometimes small squares with tabs , about the size of your big capacitor in your video . some have oblong button cells stacked in them .
+XerotoLabs I just learned from a viewer that LiPoFe4 batteries with a nominal voltage of 3.2 volts exist. These would be ideal for this purpose because their max voltage is 3.6 volt. So, I ordered some and will try.
9V batteries are a bit of an overkill because the regulator has to "kill" the extra volts. I wonder how much current it would use in deep sleep...
Hello guy with the Swiss accent. :) What a wonderful channel you have. I am so glad I found it. You explore really interesting topics and explain things very well; easy to understand. I am curious if you are an engineer by training or just picked things up on your own? Thank you!
+jims408 Thanks for the compliment! Yes, I am a trained electronics engineer, but did not work on my profession for years. Now I am old enough to do what I want. Therefore, I started my hobby again. The times are very interesting with all these modules you can get for nearly no money...
Just found your video's and am really enjoying them. With 2 alkaline battery's what do you consider the minimum voltage before replacing them. You wouldn't even start out with 3.3 vdc and can't imagine that would work.
It is well below 3 volts. You might try it, I did not make exact measurements about this fact. And I am not at home to do the measurements again.
As the overlay says, it worket for 19 days with my setup of sending a measurement every 2 minutes.
Hello from the Netherlands Andreas. Great video once again. You always come back with all sorts of nice nuggets. The tip about the ADC_MODE(ADC_VCC) and ESP.getVcc() methods was very helpful. How did you calculate the VCC_ADJ at 1.096? I also noticed that BATT_WARNING_VOLTAGE was set to 2.4V. I thought the working voltage levels for the ESP was 3.0 to 3.6v? Or can it go as low as 2.4v? Great stuff again and keep up the great videos. Mark
+Mark Troyer I just used the coding of Rainer without changing a lot. I added the two IOT services and left the rest. So, it is well possible that some of the coding is not yet optimal.
It goes for sure below 3 volts, but I think, it depends on the individual chip on how much.
The VCC_ADJ: I measured it with a voltmeter and looked what the ESP was measuring. Simple ;.)
im glad that youtube provides the option to step up the playback speed ... :D
great info!, regarding email... I'm using pushover to receive messages directly to my phone from some projects. it is a paid app but totally worth it (is "free" to send notifications up to a limit and you need to buy the client app), keep posting
Try to look at Pushbullet. Its free.
me too. and very fast I have found.
Andreas,
I looked up the specs on the HT7333 and it shows the quiescent at ~4mA not 4uA.
Also a bit more digging shows the TI TPS78333 using an extraordinarily low 0.5uA, with a dropout voltage of 0.15V, it looks like it would be the perfect regulator for a sensor application.
Kelly Anderson Obviously, there are different data sheets around. Here, it has 4 uA: www.holtek.com.tw/documents/10179/fafea7fe-0c1e-4e6f-be98-64cdc6472624
So, the only possibility is to measure ;-)
Great info dude i m a fan now.... Small detail for Noobs is best. i like IOT but don't have time to read but your video teaches good.
+Bilal Inamdar Good to hear. Then it is worth my work!
Many thanks for the info about HT7333. Will use it in weather station outdoor with one 18650 LiPo battery. Greetings from Russian viewers)
Thank you. Did you see the Russian subtitles for a few videos?
No. I didn't. Can you give me a link? Also could you, please, give me advise: If I want to power my ESP8266 from LiPo18650 and will use HT7333 for stabilisation - it means that i will use only part of 18650 capacity, because HT7333 will stop work at 3,45 V (3.3+dropdown). But lower level of voltage on 18650 (fully discharged) is about 2.5 V. how to use it's capacity from 3.45v to 2.5v ?
I hope you catch my question)
I hope you just forgot to answer my question?
This is not the behavior I accept. I will not answer therefore
Hi Andreas, Hope you are keeping well..
Thank you for another great video, you just keep getting better and better. I m working with a small solar cell, 2 x 10F super capacitors and a TPS61200, just got the super capacitors today, so testing them now
I have been running an ESP from a 4.2v - 3.7v Li ion 18650 through a MP1405 (TP4056 .with battery protection and load cut off) in deepSleep with 60sec cycle. Transmits DHT temp/hum and ADC_VCC to Thingspeak
Surprisingly, it tolerates the voltage and has been running for 2 weeks without a glitch. The battery is also fully charged.
I know this is naughty, but just wanted to see if it would work. Could it be the deepSleep and short awake time be a contributing factor to this?
My ESP 4MB chips arrived today along with my hot air rework gun.
Many thanks for making all this possible Andreas, your work and methodology make you a great teacher.
Massive thumbs up, keep them coming
+Dean Greenhough I also tried my ESP module with voltages above 3.6 volts, but it was no more reliable. So, I think, you just got a different batch. I do not think, that the on-off time has an influence on this because the main work is the on- time. As I did not respond for a week, I think, you have already changed the RAMs with your new hotair gun ;-)
I never worked with super capacitors, so I am interested in how long they are able to power an ESP module.
My ESP with 2 AAA batteries on a 2 minute schedule still transmits data to Sparkfun. It is now 16 days since it started.
+Andreas Spiess changing the RAM was shall we say a little tricky. The soldering of the new chip was a little more of a challenge, but you showed us how to deal with that. I have changed 4 chips.
I have noted that the ESP 01 black version has a 1mB chip, which is the same size as the 4mB chip, so no alteration to the legs required.
I read somewhere that the ESP 01 is less power hungry. So would like to get this working with deep sleep the only issue I have found is attempting to solder such a small wire from RST -GPIO16 😂😂😂 it appears impossible.
FYI after I changed the Ram, in all four cases, I could upload. But the program failed to run. After reworking each pin, all went well, so I was to blame.
The TPS61200 Tiny Module is proving to be a tricky little module to work with.
I have managed 29mins with a single solar cell and 2 X 10F caps. With ESP201 led removed, deep sleep 60s sending DHT22 and mV via ADC to things.
+Andreas Spiess
The TPS61200 I have is factory set to 250mV so acts like a jewel thief, no good for rechargeable batteries. You can alter this, but requires a 0.1F SMD CAP and 2 X SMD resistors ( I have ordered from China)
My initial test show that if I can get the UVLO set to disconnect the load at say 3v, disconnect the load, recharge and then run the ESP it should be able to transmit between 1-5 mins later with out any batteries.
It all hinges on not depleting them down too far as charging from flat takes a lot of time. I like the fact this can almost be autonomous.
In my case I have a known good light source for 12 hours, so whilst my system is running I get data transmitted for free.
I would be interested and find it useful if you could possibly do a video with this module and super caps. I have a feeling you would like this module
Thank you Andreas
+Dean Greenhough My thoughts concerning your comment:
1. What is the advantage to use a super cap with an ESP?. If I have no additional power source, I prefer a power source which has a high energy density. These are usually chemical batteries or at least rechargeable batteries if the device is quite power hungry. If solar power is used, again, a rechargeable battery seems for me the better choice because of its power density and low price. So, I do not see the advantage to use super caps for this purpose (only that they do not need an under-voltage protection) other than curiosity. But, maybe I am wrong. As I said, I do not know this technology. For the under-voltage protection I prefer the method described in the video: Send me an e-mail that I have to replace the battery. The under voltage protection just protects the battery. The mail protects the overall application and makes sure, that I do not "forget" to charge/change the batteries. But this, of course, only applies to connected devices...
2. What are the advantage to use power protectors or boost/buck converters for the same application? As you write, they "steel" valuable power without adding value. I see here the way to go either with a small linear regulator or better, no regulator at all, if battery voltage matches the range of the MCU. This is why I ordered some LIPOFE4 batteries which should fit exactly into the voltage range of our ESPs.
From what I read, super caps seem to be quite good for extremely high currents. So, maybe it would be better to do something else with them?
+Andreas Spiess all very valid points, noted and gratefully received.
Thank you for your observations and taking the time to reply
Did a similar thing with a lifepo4 cell and small (4cm*6cm) solar panel.
The idle power usage while the esp sleeps is so low that I had to purposely keep the thing awake to stop the cell overcharging.
Surprised it actually matches its datasheet power usage after you disconnect any external circuitry.
It shouldn't be a surprise parts meet specifications ;-)
Hi Andreas, you use also the quite big white board to solder the ESP on it. Do have found in the meantime a smaller version that has the size (width) of the wemos shields? I see still only on aliexpress the white boards from the video. I really like the already included pullup resistors and the place to solder the voltage regulator. All great. Just a little big too big for my outdoor housings.
+Stefan Bode No, I never searched. Maybe you create your own. At Osh park they do not cost a lot...
Another great video, thanks! :)
+stu110 Thanks for the compliment.
Thank you this was what i needed:)
+Maaututorial You are welcome!
For another video, it would be interesting to hear about the rtc memory functions you are calling to keep state between sleeps. This issue of persistence has been on my list for storing known SSID/Password entries entered via AP most. A video on this topic would be really helpful.
I agree, RTC explained by the guy with the Swiss accent is required
+Dean Greenhough In the works...
If not finished yet:
how much energy/time would it take to wake up just to get ntp time from router, then go back to sleep.
perhaps combine with software correction of time deviation of internal clock.
Nice videos & explanations 😄
Hi, Andreas! Congratulations for the great video!
Can I use 1000uf 6.3v electrolytic capacitors instead of tantalum capacitors?
Thank you!
Marco Rabelo yes, you can.
Thank you so much!
Hey did u use bi-polar or non-polar capacitor?
Finally one last video topic suggestion on using the ESP8266, MQTT and security. While I have read on some forums that it is possible to run MQTT securely with TLS1.2 on the ESP using a native C Xtensa development toolchain, it would be really helpful to understand if you have ever explored doing this in an Arduino IDE environment for the ESP8266. Everything I have ever seen with the Arduino IDE is only using unsecured communications. Seems like something seriously holding back the IoT market. A two minute session with Wireshark exposes all hobbiest username/passwords with all of the newest MQTT services.
+Mark Troyer So far I did not try secure communication. I am not sure if it is easily possible ith the EXP8266. My opinion is, that the thigs I transfer are not really important nor are they valuable. So, the chance of a problem is rather small for me.
For seure communications we probably have to wait for the ESP32.
great video Andreas
Glad you enjoyed it
@@AndreasSpiess I can't believe you reply to all of these comments
But I do it ;-)
Nice video ! Thank you!
What about to use external RTC and completely turn off power from ESP8266 ? In this case you can drain 80mA just for sending data and about 5uA left time. This means that from Li-ion battery with 100mAh such combination would work at least 150 days with 1 hour period of sending data.
+Stanislav Ilchenko I thought about that myself and came to the conclusion, that it is possible. But in my view this is more valuable if you sleep longer (e.g. one day) because the energy used in the active period is much bigger compared to the sleep energy for devices which send every minute or so. Its effect therefore is only small.
If you sleep longer, you have to have a reliable RTC and also a way to set its time. This is rather complicated and in most of the cases probably uses more space and is more expensive than just use a bigger battery.
There is, however, a mixed scenario where you use power hungry sensors which are read only once a day. I will cover that case in a future video.
I've had good success with the 2CR1/3n 6V battery for powering small microcontroller current-intensive devices, it will provide 60mA steady and 80mA pulse, 160mAh for Li-ion type.
Thanks for the feedback!
Great video... as usual !
I'm thinking of running an ESP from a battery also, so you are a great inspiration.
However, I know almost nothing in passive components. I understand there is a need of a capacitor for removing peaks of current, but I can't find those huge 10 000 uF capacitors. Is it possible to put an électrolytic one instead ? In the video you said there are huge. Is a 300 uF enough ?
A 1000uF electrolytic cap is even better than a tantalum. The big tantalunms have a leakage current.
This is a great video , thank you for posting.
The quiescent current appears to be very large. It would be great if we could power this device for a period of 1 year.
any ideas ?
Bigger battery?
danke schön!
Gern geschehen!
Hi, good video :)
Active Pull-up internal consume current? Thanks!
Maybe a little, but I never measured
hi there, congrats, great video.
What RTC ic you are thinking to use when operating with larger periods?
How about make the RTC "wake" the module?
Could decrease the 8min operation time?
regards,
I do not want to use any RTC exept the ESP RTC. Then you avoid question #2.
What do you mean with "Could decrease the 8min operation time?"
I have a LM1117 that i use to provide 3.3v for breadboard projects. It uses 10mA all the time, so not good for battery use. The HT7333 sounds promising for my solar powered esp12.
I agree
Great video, just great .
Thanks!
Hello Andreas, thanks very much for your videos and knowledge sharing, so much appreciated. I want to realize a wireless keypad with BLE and I was wondering if it’s possible to augment battery life using ESP 32 deep sleep. Do you know if it’s possible to wake up the ESP-32 pressing a digit while not loosing the input? Thanks!
Maybe you watch my videos about the ESP32, also using BLE
Thank you for the good an informative video, Anderas! Is the 10.000 uF tantalum capacitors leakage current relevant? Where did you buy yours?
+Miika Kurkela I have to confess: I made a mistake: The capacitors are only 1000uF! I just discovered when I was searching for the link. Sorry about that. I will immediately correct it in the video.
Here the link: www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-7343-1000UF-6-3V-E-7343-108J-SMD-Tantalum-capacitors-20PCS-LOT-New-and/32514902690.html
No problem! In your earlier video also 1000 uF were good enough too. Great video, important subject! I already found and ordered few from eBay
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=tantalum+1000uF+values&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xtantalum+1000uF.TRS0&_nkw=tantalum+1000uF&_sacat=0
Is there a way to calculate the needed capacitor size? I'am sure even 1000 uF is quite too big, isn't it?
@@AndreasSpiess That makes a lot of difference. Your videos are great. And likely the only reason I started this hobby.
Hi Andreas, can you please give some teachings about the red battery characterizing box (can be seen at time 1:51)? Much appreciated.
This was an old electronic load. You get much better ones now.
Interesting video, thanks for sharing! Waiting impatiently for my NodeMcu Lua ESP8266 from ebay :) This will help my future project, want to run on battery for a long time.
Just one remark: NodeMCU boards are development boards and not suitable for low power applications because they use a 5V to 3.3V regulator and have a USB to serial adapter on board. Both devices use lots of power even if the ESP is in deep sleep.
Good to know, I'll look into using a ESP-12 instead of the NodeMCU for the final build then.
This is the capacitor you were using right?
www.ebay.com/itm/301749529877 Thanks
+salle rc yes
Do you think these would work as well (cheaper), or is 4V to low? www.ebay.com/itm/191697227371 Or possibly another capacitor type, space is not an issue for my application.
Hi Andreas - I've always wanted to know how to develop a circuit and s/w that allows me to check voltage of my batteries and warn me if I need to change batteries. Have you ever done such a video tutorial ? if not would it be an interesting one to do ?
I have never done one for the ESP series. I did it at the beginning of this channel using Arduinos. It should not be too complicated.
Hello, anyone watching this in 2019
I believe the now preferred LDO regulator is the Holtek HT7833. The HT7830 might be good for using a little bit more of the battery's full capacity by going as low as 3.6 volts
If anyone knows of a better option for single (18650) lithium ion operation, please let me know
nice video !!!
Thank you so much for your sharing. Your channel help me a lot while working with ESP.
Just one question, I know that the regulator of ESP is optional for your White Adapter, and in case of you want to use regulator you need to desolder the short-circuit 0 ohm resistor in the middle, if not your input-voltage connect directly to 3:3V. But you didn't do it there, so I don't know how your ESP can still working ?
There are several versions of this PCB sold
Great video!
+Chee Kiat Teo Thanks!
I was looking for something like the ST1L08 or the LDFM voltage regulator, but it's quite hard to find. I really liked the option to shut it down digitally...
I think, you find also other LDOs with that property, I just do not remember, which one
I don't know if someone else has already suggested this, but if you have a website you can write your own code (in PHP, for example) for sending emails, and program the ESP to send the HTTP request to that page (which is quite fast, and therefore consumes little battery) and go to sleep, then, whatever time the webserver requires for actually sending the email is not a problem the ESP should care about (as long as it is shorter than the interval between two requests, otherwise the ESP would overload the webserver).
You can use a pre-shared key/protocol for encrypting your data, so that only your ESP will be able to send commands to that page, and only that page will be able to decrypt the content of the string sent by the ESP, even without SSL
You are right, there are many different ways. These days I use the MQTT protocol because it is lightweight and well accepted.
@@AndreasSpiess I was mainly suggesting a way for sending emails (if really necessary) in much less time, rather than keeping the ESP on for 30 seconds, thus consuming much less energy from the battery (even though I agree that sending an email is usually not the best solution, because it makes harder to automatically collect and elaborate the data being sent.) As I said, one could also use symmetric encryption to secure the communication (from the ESP to your very own server), which is much simpler and computationally lighter than the asymmetric encryption required for a standard secure connection to an SMTP server.
As for the cloud services, I watched some of your LoRa related videos, and noticed that some services have a limit in the number of messages than can be sent per day (which, of course, makes much more sense in the case of LoRa, mainly because of the radio channel being shared between as many devices as possible, which is definitely not the case here with the ESP), so I was just suggesting a way to work without external services. I'm pretty sure even an old unused Raspberry Pi model one (or a Zero, which uses the same hardware) could run whatever server one may decide to use, but chances are you could install and run it even on your router.
Thx rus subtitles. Ставлю лайк за русские субтитры, к сожалению в других Ваших видео они не работают. С удовольствием просмотрел бы и другие видео.
Все субтитры были предоставлены лояльными зрителями. Для их создания много работы.
Very good. Thanks!
You are welcome!