Stabilizer setup with Jake Kaminski |Recurve Archery Tuning Series Episode 6
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ค. 2024
- Compound and Recurve Stabilizer setup Archery Tuning Series Episode 6. What are stabilizers and what do they do? How can different dampers, weights, lengths, angles and extensions affect the performance of your bow? I'll show you how to make the best of your stabilizer setup to help you shoot better, hold more still and shoot better scores.
Patreon:
/ jakekaminski
Tee Spring Apparel:
www.zazzle.com/store/Jake_Kam...
I talk about the following things;
History of stabilizers: Start of video
Dampeners: 4:45
Different Lengths: 9:45
V-Bar and side rod Brackets: 16:47
Aiming pattern fixes: 18:08
Extensions: 26:56
Advanced Theory: 29:18
Stabilization affects on tune: 33:55
This is a multi-part series that goes completely over how to setup and tune your Olympic Recurve taking it out of the box and competing on the worlds biggest stage, the Olympic Games.
Need the gear to help you set-up your bow like me? Check out the links below for the items I use to set up my bow.
Beiter Blocks amzn.to/2u08xLZ
OMP Bow Vise amzn.to/2ZJDujA
Last Chance Bow Scale amzn.to/35ao7BO
Generic Luggage Scale amzn.to/2ZMF4Be
Easton Allen Wrenches (standard) amzn.to/2SSfo4P
Allen Wrenches (metric) amzn.to/2MJAoGV
Easton T Bow Square amzn.to/37jWs2C
Easton L Bow Square amzn.to/2FlGIjX
Link to Tuning Series playlist:
• Tuning Series
Link to Form Series playlist:
• Form Series
All of the info that will be in these clips are covered in depth and more plus active Q and A during seminars that we are hosing across the world.
Check out www.JakeKaminski.com for books and seminar info!
Social media links:
/ kaminskijake
/ jake_kaminski_
#archery #archer #form
**Disclaimer: Jake Kaminski participates in the Amazon Associates Program, Links to amazon.com or amazon businesses and advertising fees are given to the owner of this channel. Affiliate links are helpful to this channel, and is a way for you, the individual to contribute to this channel by clicking on links and doing normal amazon shopping (without spending any money outside of your norm.) - กีฬา
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Who the hell would give this a 👎 these videos have been nothing but helpful. Thanks Jake!
Thanks a heap brother. There is such a void of information. It seemed almost hopeless before I found this series.
thanks man, glad you like the content.
Thank you. Really useful info. I had never investigated how to use these properly and this helped me understand.
Really glad you started putting out content again I really love that you give us viewers the 'why' things work that way with form or equipment. - I've been told that dropping the V-bars only has the effect of shortening the effective rod length. But I felt it resisted canting the bow... and your explanation makes a lot of sense. can't wait for the next vid!
Thanks Jake!😅
I burst out laughing on Korean setup: 30” long, 10” sides, 6” extension, 45 degrees straight out. Exactly what I was told how it should be set up. Glad to hear another point of view! Thanks!
Jake answered a long time question that puzzling me in a very persuasive and easy to understand way. He touches lots deep and profound areas in this sport, wonderful!
Your videos have given me a better understanding in my 9 years in archery! You're on my notification list! Thank you!
Mate this is the most comprehensive, clear and serious video on stabilizers I have seen in 10 months searching for one!!!! Thank you so much! Now I understand the standard kits most archers use or shops sell (30' and 10' rods, flat v bar and 6' ext.)...
Thanks for the support.
Is it good that the standard kits are 30/10/flat vbar/ext., or would a different configuration work better? I ask because I just purchased two Decut Crown kits -- 30/10/flat 70-degree vbar (which I assume means 35 degrees on both sides)/4" ext. and am trying to get up to speed on weights and configurations before they arrive.
I think my head is going to explode, but thanks for the details . Great intro for us newcomers.
@jake Kaminski thanks for putting your knowledge on TH-cam.
especially for recurve.
Thank you for your great work!
It really helps me to get my shooting at another level.
Awesome video on a topic that is hard understand without a lot of experimentation, test and analysis. Thanks for sharing this. Time to order more weights to follow your principles.
Jake, this is truly one of the most informative video I've seen!!! You took muddy water and cleared it up. Thank you very much!
Marvellous job here, a lot of informations explained in an easy way, lot of hints, definitively the first video I would ever recommend to anybody who want to get serious about his bow setup
Fantastic informative video(s). I haven't shot for 20 years but Covid lockdown made me get my kit from the loft. TH-cam didn't exist back then and my set up was uninformed, I mostly just copied what other people did. So to learn great info from you, a pro, is a revelation. I can't wait to join a club and get on a range and put it into practise. Thanks.
I've learned a lot since I watch your video's.
Great job 👌
Thank you very much for your effort.
Greetings from Holland
Great stuff Jake. Keep the videos coming. Thank you very much. Very very helpful.
Excellent explanation jake thank you.
Excellent tutorial Jake! Thank you!
You are so right there is not a lot of reliable content out here. I want to get into archery and after watching 50+ hours of video i finally found your channel and it is the BEST!!! You are covering a lot of info I haven't found anywhere else. I hope you can also tell us about a reliable targets for the back yard too, it is hard to find affordable targets, and i want to buy once and cry once. There are not any real
archery shops in my area and those that are are only hunting shops
Jake, great video on understanding stabilization. Thank you
Hi, thanks for sharing your knowledge. We club archers owe you a big thank you. I have been fortunate to have had good knowledgeable friends who have shared their knowledge and watching your presentation has now started to pull the threads together. I was amazed at the free content of your videos. Once again a big thank you.
Thanks for the support. Looking to spread the word.
Really like your "plumb bob" explanation for using angled down side rods.
Brilliant video.
Great Video, excellent technical ability to explain, made a lot of sense,
Brilliant thanks jake
Great video. It definitely helps clear up my mind up how downwards side bar works and the concept behind it. Attempted for a couple of times but cannot make it works well. Now I can give it another try.
Also a few thoughts, mainly on comparing the traditional KOR set-up and the suggested set-up in the video:
1) it could be difficult for general recreational archers to set the angle and weight according to the video. The concept is using weight distribution to help aiming and stabilize the bow. However first thing one must have is a reasonably solid form. Much false positive can be resulted if the form, considering the DFL, is not good enough.
2) Partially agree with the traditional set-up comments. Old risers design over 10 to possibly 20 years ago back to like Sky Conquest or Samick Ultra, I believe limbs at that time as well, are for CG in front, long extender and no downwards angled side bar. The after-arrow-is-shot phase is required to be jumping straight towards the target to emphasize how the shooting form and the particular shot is done. It is feedback and also reinforcement of a good shot. And for the aiming pattern they may have it at the gold at set-up or it might be having the pin straight above the bulls eye, drops straight to gold when draw-to-anchor, I am not sure.
3) Angle down explanation is correct that when bow is cant, one level arm gets longer while the other gets shortened. While with zero angle down the level arm of both side bars shorten when bow cants, that's correct too. But still the CG is below the grip as bars are located below the grip (old risers got stabilizer insert even lower than modern ones too). I believe in such case zero down angle side bars are still trying to bring the bow back to vertical, just not as much as when it is leveled. The set-up doesn't worsen the canting.
4) Wonder if the traditional style set up works better on relatively light weight set-up, say for beginners and youth archers. The damping effect is much better from experience. Strange vibrations and unwanted movement outside the shooting plane will be resulted and become more obvious when there is not enough weights in the suggested set-up.
5) Agree that it is more a shooting style issue. Traditionally 50/50 push n' pull is the golden key, feels like you are pushing something towards the target, a point of mass in front of your push point towards the target. That's where old style set-up want to keep the balance point at, 2 or 3 inches in front of the riser. When you put a finger below the extender 2 or 3 inches away from the riser, it balanced out there (not at the grip like in compound). Limbs are much less powerful back in the old times. Might also be the reason why it is emphasized for the need of a better push?
Thanks again for the great video! Now I got busy time testing with stabilizer set-up again.
Superb video! Really informative and probably the best one I’ve watched so far.
Awesome video. Great to understand the logic behind it all.
Thanks for the support!
Muchas Gracias, son muy buenos tus videos, sobre todo para personas como yo que vivimos al otro lado del mundo y también vivimos lejos de gente que sabe de arquería, graciasss de nuevo y Felicitaciones.
Great video
Thank you so soo much sir... Because of you I have improved my game much more .... I follow all your tips ... thankyou soo much form.... LADAKH (INDIA)
As an engineer I can tell you that for balance it is the mass times the distance but for resistance to sudden movement it is the mass times the distance squared. So a longer stabilizer makes a much bigger difference for holding the bow in position.
When I started in archery we had aluminum stabilizers around 30" long and Hoyt was the only manufacturer with a vibration damper. Being poor college students we even made our own stabilizers by buying aluminum tube from the hardware store and using epoxy to set pieces of threaded rod in the ends. The aluminum tube came in 6' lengths and just for grins one time we showed up at the school range with a 6' long stabilizer. Nobody could hold it still, it was just done as a joke. We cut it in half and made 2 stabilizers out of it.
Previous to that point in time a lot of people only used a pair of short stabilizers with dampers, one mounted on the top end of the riser projecting forward and one mounted on the bottom end of the riser projecting forward. People went to a longer single stabilizer but it made the bow very front heavy. We finally got into V-bars and that balanced the bow better for me and allowed me to hold steadier.
Again as an engineer I always wondered why the bow worked well even though the balance was not at the center of the grip and I mean when you were holding the bow horizontally in your video. With a single stabilizer going forward, 2 stabilizers going rearward on a v-bar, and additional weight at the bottom of the riser there is a lot of weight below the grip so the bow would never balance horizontally. In my mind the recoil of the bow should cause the bow to tilt downward slightly since the center of mass is offset from the center of recoil, but we never saw that. Maybe it is as you say that the arrow has cleared the string by the time the riser moves under recoil. But then you said there could be a change in nocking point which implies that there might be some movement under recoil.
The first explanation of stabilizer that make sense. thanx
Glad to hear it.
it was interesting for me! thanks!!
Great Great video!
Great keep it up 👍
Thanks,Jake’
Thanks for sharing all this knowledge with the world. Really looking forward to all the new videos where you will cover the rest of the tuning list you started with in episode one.
These videos really help me tuning the bows of our pupils in the club. Also with deciding which items I wanna buy on my new win&win CXT bow and where to pay attention to.
Do you have actual plans to write this all down in a book ?? I think it will become a bestseller within archery technique world!!
Best regards from out of the netherlands
Totally new Concept
Good video!! I just wanted to say that 2 stabilizers with different lenghts (like your standar bar and your wind bar) can have the same balance but the bow won't aim in the same way because the moment of inertia won't be the same in both bars. Thank you for your videos and keep with them :)
I’ve only had to even adjust one ounce off of that balance method to have the same hold. It gets it very close and will need fine tuning from there.
Jake, thanks so much for the info. As a coach, this has helped me tune my archers bows and helped me to understand the why. The ads could be timed better. It seems like every time an ad comes on it's mid sentence.
That’s odd. I put them in manually inbetween video takes. I’ll have to revisit that for you.
I’m glad it has been working out for you and your archers.
Good day Jake. The contents are very good and hope more can come.
I would suggest you do a video on strings... Material, serving, build, twists, and so on. How all those can influence bow tune and archer itself, etc. It will be very helpful for those that wants to do their homework before making one.
Good suggestion, Ill fit that in here soon.
Long rods have been around for a long time I got my first 24 inch aluminium long rod in 1974 and it;s main function was stabilisation of the point of aim
For World Archery Barebow, you can use any olympic riser (Erik Jonnson from Sweden has been posting WA 300 practice scores of 296, 297, 298 on a 40cm face 18m with a 25" Winnex riser) or a heavy BB specific riser, but the important thing is to get enough weight under the grip so that the bow, strung up, sits upright in your hand. There will be less tendency for the bow to tip backwards during the shot process, and more weight will resist torquing in a left to right direction. Otherwise, BB REALLY needs a strong bow arm and grip like you discussed in your grip video.
Peter Nguyen , Erik’s scores are unbelievable! They would probably beat 90% of Olympic recurve shooters. Who needs sights and clickers!
Amazing.
I dropped my V-Bars from about -10 to -45, and ton of vibration just went away.
Hi Jake !
First of all, thanks for your videos. The content is amazing. The way you explained the hook absolutely changed my struggle in getting aligned!!
Quick question about this one. In minute 15 you explain how to setup the right weight with the balance between lateral and front stab.
To get this well balanced, I need 10 ounces on my lateral. Does this mean I need 10 on each lateral or should I devise those 10 ounces between the two and set 5 ounces on each side?
Thanks a lot for your help, keep that way it’s a great job!
And sorry my English, I am French 🤣
The position of the weights and the affect is all about Force x Distance. The perpendicular distance of the weight from the bow. The longer the distance the more torque the weights will have ie, turning force about the bow. The shorter the distance, the less the turning force. A short stab of say 300mm and weight of say 10ounces, will have the same turning force as a 600mm stab with half the weight. Hope that helps
Great Information, how would the AAE gold change the how you set up with the internal dampener? How do I set this up with the dampener to get the most out of it? Also can you go into detail on tiller tuning for finger pressure in a future video?
If you look on the 2012 Olympic Women's video, one of the German girls has her V bar on the belly side of the riser in the bottom inside stabiliser bushing!
Please upload a video of arrows for every budget. like $50, $100, $150 upto x10s. Thank You for your valuable information.
Jake I've just been playing with a "flat" and an angled 15 degree v-bar with only short stabilizers on it and the flat one stays in what ever angle i put it. The angled one always returns to horizontal. It's logic as hell but it feels like magic. Real eye opener. THANKS!!!!!!
Good to hear. Excellent news.
Jake as always, thank you for quality archery programing. What name brand adustable v bar bracket to you use?
Jake, thanks for all the video series. Question is, if you get a back/down angle setup you like, do you like to take the adjustable v bar bracket out and replace it with a lighter fixed version with the angles you like? This would reduce the weight close to the bow, so that you can put that weight elsewhere on the ends of the rods or just reduce the total bow weight? Similarly, do you like the quick disconnects, or do you eliminate those also to reduce weight?
A lot of infos and knowledge, in this video, as usual with you.
You don't talk about the multi-rods stabilizers.
A bad good idea, since we don't see them in the newest productions ?
Jake, I love your videos, but want to respond to your specific video comment on history of stabilizers prior to 2009. Your video advises that stabilizers were used (prior to 2009) only as a vibration dampening tool, not used to hold the bow still. I shot competitive recurve archery in the 1960's (three sequential Kansas State championships) and we indeed used what were very long metal tubes, with a weight on the end. They were called pedestal stabilizers and were intended to hold the bow still (reduce torque errors in bow grip). Vibration suppression came years later with carbon and rubber designs
When Starting archery I looked at old Bows and setups, I saw that people used to use 2 stabilizers sticking out forward, one where we have them now and one above the arrow.
Do you know why that was moved away from? I quite like the look and would like to try it out
Hi Jake, talking about the side winds affecting stability. You talk about using a wind bar... What is your take on the hex/6rod stabilizer in the wind?
How do you change your stabilizer setup when switching to different set of limbs? Like weaker practise limbs for example.
Jake, as always great content. I have been shooting for 18 months now and I am still very much a beginner. I am having a problem with my finger pressure on the string. As you mentioned about the tiller, how should I adjust it if I have difficulty keeping my index finger on the string? i found my index finger slipping and my middle finger holding a lot of weight. Cheers
I’ll be covering that soon.
What do you think about the beiter v-box for dampeners?
Great video Jake. Can rods be too stiff for a given poundage? I understand that if a rod is to carry a lot of weight it needs to be stiff enough to cope. But can this stiff rod be detrimental to the overall balance / vibration reduction?
Hi Jake, great to see you putting out material again.
I shoot a NanoMax with HMCPlus setup and 4” extension, which feels good to me.
My question is, what are your thoughts if any about putting the Vbar behind the riser in the lower V down position?
Cheers
Jamie
I’ll do a video about that. I would never do that after I tried it once. Will go into more detail soon.
excellent thanks Jake, I’ve onlly seen one person do it, a female german archer, can’t remember her name though!
Aside from the technicalities, it would add more weight than I’m comfortable with.
Also I have a suggestion of video (more for the Form series):
Breathing cycle per arrow, and time/breathing management during the 6 shots in 4mn in competition... Your take on optimum breathing technique for accuracy
Planned as well.
Hi Jake, I would like your advice with regards to the elimination of excessive limb flutter. I would like to know if it's a tiller, form or stabilizer issue and would like some advice to help solve this issue. Thank you very much!
It could also be your string either too short/not enough twists or not the best material for your setup. A shooter at our club had a very noisy bow. Once a switched to a different string the noise was almost gone.
Hey Jake, thank you for making these helpful videos. 1 question, between 8:30 - 9:00 mins on this video, what brand is that damper please??
Hope you're feeling better Jake and had a great Christmas. A question if I may, how do people choose the long rod length and side rod lengths? Is there an optimum pairing? I currently have a second hand HMC Plus setup, 28" long rod, the side rods are 10", my long rod has a 5" extension on it, my vbar, fixed with a 30 degree down angle, is attached to the riser directly, it's ok, when I draw, the tip of the long rod doesn't move and I've got it set like you like, I prefer a stable platform to shoot from and not fight a bow that wants to tip forwards. Weight wise, it's light and I'd like something a little heavier for stability. I have watched various videos, Brady likes long side rods to get the weight back behind the string, many archers currently have the same and I'm now looking at a new stabiliser setup, Arctec Pro XXL is what I will buy and thinking of the 14" side rods and the 34" long rod, however, I'm not sure if this size combination is right, I don't have the money to experiment, so would like to get it close from the start. Any thoughts? Is there a rule of thumb that says for a given length of long rod, you need a certain side rod length? I have an adjustable vbar on order, similar to the one shown in this vid. (riser is W&W AXT, limbs EX Power, 42 lbs, 70" bow, I'm 6'3") Any suggestions from anyone would be much apprecitated before I go spend my money.
Jake, can you give us your thoughts about the front stabilizer pointing downward at a certain degree . I see some pro 3D shooters use that method. My take on it is that it reduces the left and right torque you put on the bow .
Hi Jake, have you done a video on the Beiter v-box?
Jake,
Years ago, back in Middle School, before I could afford V-Bars, I took the "Butch Johnson" approach - backweight and a single long rod.
1 - What are the effects (positive and negative) with using the backweight+long rod set up?
What are your thoughts on the system? (I know it's fallen out of favor, even if it served me well for years)
(Thanks for making this series, you'll help a lot of people!)
I used to rock his approach myself as a young shooter, I looked up to him and used a 30" long rod and a back weight much like he did.
Its not a bad system, I just think you can use the weight you are adding to the riser more affectively when you put them out on a rod instead of directly against the riser.
I am setting up my Gillo G1 as an Olympic Recurve for the first time. I realised that my front Stabiliser was not central when looked at from behind, I found this is because Gillo purposefully offset the stabiliser Bushing by 1mm to the left (right handed riser).
Is this normal? It means I cannot use the stabiliser for centres hot and string alignment
Do long rod length depend on draw length?
if i put the weight at the end of the damper on the longrod it seems that the weight vibrate after the shot, and vibrates more and more after each shot, so that i have to stop between shots to let it settle down, could it be that the dampers it self is to long?
Oops, you are wrong about the 2009 date. Consider George Tekmitchov's "Advanced Bow Stabilization" white paper from 1993 and Steve Ellison's Power Point slides also from the 1990s. There were earlier treatises on stabilizers and almost all focused upon holding the bow steady and not vibration dampening. Vibration dampening didn't become a thing until after the invention of the "Doinker" in the late 1990s. (Justin Huish won golds with a Doinker precursor on his stabs if I remember correctly.
What type of riser do you use?
Regards to tiller, how to determine an ideal tiller.? Will it shift the brace height.?
This is an amazing video! Thanks so much. What are your thoughts on the _length_ of the side rods? I feel like you've educated me about long rod length, weights, and side rod angles, but I'm not sure how to choose a side rod length. I currently have an intermediate-level 10" side rod setup but am shopping for a new stabiliser set and wondered if 12" (angled down) or longer is better for any particular reason. (36#, 27.5" draw length)
Kelly,
I would recommend at least 12" side rods if not using an extension. When using an extension I would suggest 15" side rods. However with that lighter draw weight and shorter draw length 12" would be a good start. I prefer the longer rods to use the weight I put on them more effectively (because of leverage.)
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Thank you so much for taking the time to respond! I'll start with some 12" rods and go from there.
Your take on dampers stuck on the limbs?
Can you make put your 8" hunting stabilizer on an 2.5 foot threaded rod using coupling nuts (1) and (2) is there a point when the weight could hurt the bow?
Jake would you explain more and show us how does the aae gold extension works and it's benefits???? Thanks 😬😬
I plan on it.
Hey Jake , I’ve being studying the stabilization game for a while. I was wondering: have you ever tested which one of the following works best, at same pounds per inch, a front 28” stabilizer with more weight or a 33” long stabilizer with less weight ?
I can’t seem to understand the different effect that the two setups have on the aiming pattern. Thanks a lot.
does increasing your draw weight affect your stab tune?
Any thoughts on where the V Bar sits in regards to the riser and long rod etc? I saw a video where the thought was to have the v bar against the riser, this in effect brings the weight back and also brings the side rods weights more in line with the string, it also reduces the amount of weight on the end of the long rod but still maintains balance. The usual setup is riser, extension, v bar then long rod, my own setup is riser, v bar, 4" extension, 30" long rod, and with the weights and balance I have, I find this works for me. The long rod tip does not rise or lower through the draw to anchor and the balance is almost neutral, on loose, the bow is slow to roll forward. For me, if the bow is neutrally stable at full draw, then the shot is much more accurate and smoother. My side rods angle down at 30 degrees too, all fixed, not got a fully adjustable system as yet.
Having the weights at the string isn't really a thing to shoot for, there is no real methodology or "why" to have the weights there. I shot 16" side rods not the standard 10" ones and yes it moved my weight back but I was not trying to make the weights be in line with the string. I was more focused on my aiming pattern at full draw. I am not interested in what it does as Im pulling it back, because I am not going to let go when I'm pulling back, I'm only letting go when I'm aiming at full draw.
Good day Jake, I am a newbie archer. Could you mount the adjustable vbars at the bottom dampener spot on the riser (recurve) so it would work like what you said about compound vbars? Any issues with this? Just asking out of curiosity. Thank you
Or with the "ovni" VBar Gillo has just released...
Could you comment a little about the stabilizer setup that Jacob Wukie uses (you shot with him many times, right)?. He uses a very weird setup...
We put the weight on the ends of the stabilizers but what kind of effect does it have when we put the weights on the riser directly? I see most archers like to add a bit of it at the top bushing on their riser.
That top weight bushing only makes the bow rotate forward faster upon release.
IMHO I believe that to be a perfectly good waste of mass weight that could be used more effectively by putting it on the end of the stabilizer.
First one to see 🏹
This content is amazing. Quick question. For a first stab I want something to grow with. I hate buying budget stuff it’s a waste of money, imo. You end up buying twice. With stabs though there is no consistent info out there. Considering HMC+ Carbon, ACS-EL, and ACS-15. The ACS ones seem like keepers, long term. Any thoughts for a stab to grow with?
its very interesting and well explained. It would be awesome if you could subtitle yours videos. Many deaf people or non english speakers would find It very useful.
They should be auto generated within youtube.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery thanks for your answer. Keep with these videos,they are awesome
One question sir using nylon or rubber washers in between all your connecting points would that add to the dampening affect?Because all my stabilizer bars came with a nylon washer any thoughts please
What do you think about angling the long rod downward like some of the compound shooters, what effects that it might have on the bow?
I address that later in this video. Let me know if you need a timestamp.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Oh that would be helpful, I'm having a hard time finding the right timestamp.
Luqman JW I misread that. Thought you meant side rods. But the long rod down is fine. I have done it. Same thing with the plumb bob type affect. It’s nice but I didn’t like it with an extension.
Does the archers draw length have effect on their long rod length? Does a 26 inch draw length compared to a 31 inch draw length results in a 'standard' different long rod length? And for compound, does switching the bow length (for instants going from a 37 to a 40 inch bow, same brand, same model, same cam system) affect the long rod length?
Not necessarily, rod length is usually just personal preference. You really can't go wrong with a standard 30" stabilizer, its a happy medium to start with.
As far as different AtA and cams etc, usually the stabilizer length doesn't need to change a ton however the balance or where the weights are located will change.
For example if you are more of a command shooter (aggressive pulling or almost "punching") you will need more weights up front or a forward balance. If you are more of a hold and wait type of shooter, or a relaxed shot then you will need more weights on the side rod and less on the front.
Generally shorter ATA bows will need more side rod weights and longer (less parallel limbs) need more front weight IIRC.
@jake how long of a stab roughly for a short draw? 26 and under
Hi Jake ...loved the vid. Does cost or brand have an impact on stabilizers. Do u het what u pay for or are yor just adding a brand name and spending unnecessary
In general you get what you pay for. However once you get into the big staple brands (AAE, B-Stinger, Doinker) you start to get into more brand loyalty or visual appeal.
does your length suggestions apply to female archers? Does length/weight have anything to do with draw weight? buying my first stabilizer and trying to figure out where to start. Thanks for your awesome video!
Why do compound shooters angle the long rod down as well, is it similar to angling V bars down?
I'm by no means a compound expert and only shoot one for fun to change things up a bit from my recurve, but at least that's my experience. Part of what compound archers seek to achieve with the "modern" style of stabilization (long rod + single side rod) is increased stability front to back which can be tougher to keep under control because of the low holding weight compared to a recurve. Having the stabilizers angled down counteracts excess movement in that area in the same way that angled V bars counteract cantering sideways.
Dear Jake,
If you move the side bars in or out wouldnit it also bring the weight more to the back?
Yes that changes it some.
I need to know to tune my bow help me jake
The only* thing that 'angling' v-bars down does is moving the bow center of mass more and more lower than the pressure point (bow hand). And it's only natural that lower center of mass leads to more inertia regarding to rotating the bow left or right. One can achieve the same effect by simply adding a barebow weight to the lowest riser bushing available. It won't increase overal moment of inertia as much as adding this weight to v-bars tho.
This is from physics standpoint.
*OK. it also moves it a bit to the front.
But if you put that same weight at the end of the stabilizer system it becomes more efficient at holding the bow in space. Thus increasing the resistance to rotational deflection from advantages in leverage.
Really great video again Jake! Tell us about top rods/dampers please!!
Will do!