Very nice! I ended up going with the Hakko FR-410 solder sucker as it matched the Hakko FX-100 soldering station and in my opinion the induction heating on the FX-100 can’t be beat. Though I still love my FM-203
The FR-410 looks fantastic. I got a great deal on this FM-204 and I’m as happy as can be. Loving my FX-951 but may upgrade to the FX-100 soon! Thanks for the comment
Happy Weller user here, don’t want to go back to wick and solder suckers. You might want to heat the pads a fraction longer. As the solder isn’t fully melted you might rip of a pad.
This was only a test of the thermal retention of the FM-2024 tip. Desoldered many joints in a short amount of time to learn whether or not the heating element can keep up. In normal desoldering (and soldering), the less time you spend heating a pad, the better. If it’s a multilayer board, you’ll want to sink the heat to the pad for a bit longer. But considering this is a single layer board, the dwell time may be minimized without issue.
@@PrimeHiFi might also depend on tip temperature etc. In my experience it rather heat a short amount longer and “circle” a bit more carefully. Also depends on the quality of the board. Recently worked on a Marantz PM17 MK II that had one board with very bad pads and tracks, almost like pointing at it made them come loose.
@@RTBNL Yes tip temp is very important. I usually stay around 400-430C for most jobs. It depends on what kind of board and how big the traces are. Some traces will lift no matter how careful you are, but they are few and far between. Usually has to do with heat stress and age.
@@PrimeHiFi there is a big difference, I don’t go above 375 degrees while desoldering. Soldering is done around 330-360 degrees depending on the solder used.
Very nice! I ended up going with the Hakko FR-410 solder sucker as it matched the Hakko FX-100 soldering station and in my opinion the induction heating on the FX-100 can’t be beat. Though I still love my FM-203
The FR-410 looks fantastic. I got a great deal on this FM-204 and I’m as happy as can be. Loving my FX-951 but may upgrade to the FX-100 soon! Thanks for the comment
I love hakko products all I will buy
Reminds me of my uncle snoring. 😅
🤣
Sounds like my wife when she falls in a deep sleep.
Happy Weller user here, don’t want to go back to wick and solder suckers. You might want to heat the pads a fraction longer. As the solder isn’t fully melted you might rip of a pad.
This was only a test of the thermal retention of the FM-2024 tip. Desoldered many joints in a short amount of time to learn whether or not the heating element can keep up. In normal desoldering (and soldering), the less time you spend heating a pad, the better. If it’s a multilayer board, you’ll want to sink the heat to the pad for a bit longer. But considering this is a single layer board, the dwell time may be minimized without issue.
@@PrimeHiFi might also depend on tip temperature etc. In my experience it rather heat a short amount longer and “circle” a bit more carefully. Also depends on the quality of the board. Recently worked on a Marantz PM17 MK II that had one board with very bad pads and tracks, almost like pointing at it made them come loose.
@@RTBNL Yes tip temp is very important. I usually stay around 400-430C for most jobs. It depends on what kind of board and how big the traces are. Some traces will lift no matter how careful you are, but they are few and far between. Usually has to do with heat stress and age.
@@PrimeHiFi there is a big difference, I don’t go above 375 degrees while desoldering. Soldering is done around 330-360 degrees depending on the solder used.
That thing sucks
That it does 😎😏💨