just nice to see someone else struggling with it....will yank my tires off in the AM and tighten it down a bit more. Really appreciate the video, still useful years later!
My 2002 Tacoma brakes were soft after I replaced the shoes. And the next day I was greasing the driveshaft and found that if I pulled on the ebrake cable it would adjust the brakes out making them tighter against the drum. This has made the brakes work great. I could hear the adjuster wheel clicking every time I pulled the cable.
If all the adjuster parts are nice an clean that will work. If there is rust or a build up of brake dust on the adjuster threads it won't. The stuff I see regularly won't work. But you are right!
When I replaced the shoes I cleaned and greased everything that needed greased. Even though it’s a 2002 everything was working as if it were new. Also all springs were replaced to with a spring kit. 👍
2 questions- Does the wheel have to be off the ground in order to adjust? Also, will this adjust the parking brake as well? (I’m getting a very light grab when applying the foot parking brake too the floor) ... I’ve been trying to find the spindle for an hour or so and it is tough to locate blindly!
A wide stubby flat head worked te best for me. Taking the whole drum off seeing getting the feel and fighting just so you can get it back on the doing the rest while having two lugs nuts on the drum so you know its all the way down.
Best way to adjust rear brake shoes is. Before adjusting . Have parking brake off, remove drum and clean shoes/parts and drum, to prevent any brake noise. Then install drum and wheel. Torque your wheels. If you do want your drums/rotors to warp. Keep vehicle jack up . Turn your wheel by hand to check how loose your brakes are then start adjusting. Do a couple clicks on the adjuster and then turn the wheel and repeat and till your wheel turns 1/2 or 3/4 of a full turn . Then apply your parking brake and release or press on your brake pedal a couple of times and re check adjustment. Re Adjust if necessary.. y
Can you Please help. 2001 Tacoma. I replace the oil soaked rear shoes passenger side. The vehicle brake check here in Israeli still won’t pass the test. just wondering if you have any Ideas why they are not grabbing strong enough. ? Thanks. Your video was the best I found on TH-cam. (Also changed the rear axle seal. ) they check every wheel for braking power. Imcidently I have probably have the only Tacoma in Israel so I have to order parts from US.
If the new rear axle seal does not fix it, it could be looseness in the bearing or wear on the axle where the seal mates. If the seal leaks the gear oil contaminates the shoes so you have to change every time the get oil soaked. There is nothing you can do to save them, this is documented by manufacturers and I have tried soaking, cleaning, sanding, scrubbing. Gotta replace them. Also the brake wheel cylinder can leak brake fluid and appear oily, make sure that is not leaking by checking at the wheel cylinder boots. Then just get new shoes in and possibly resurface or replace the drum. Do adjustment like I showed and you should be good.
Hey I adjusted both of my self adjusters but when I pull up my parking brake only the rear left wheel locks and my rear right doesn't. Does this mean I need new parking brake cables since the right one may be stretched? My car is a stick shift so I use it more often then someone with an auto.
Probably the easiest diagnosis is to pull the wheel and drum on the right side, have a helper apply and release the parking brake, and watch to see what your shoes do. DO NOT STEP ON THE BRAKE PEDAL WITH THE DRUM OFF, it will pop a wheel cylinder. But it is OK to apply and release the parking brake cable. It could be stretched, or it could be disconnected from the parking brake strut/arm mechanism inside the drum which you would see, or it could be broken inside the casing of the cable. Seen them all, tough to say but dont guess, check it out.
@@paulkelley86 ok thanks, im also having problems tightening the adjuster (to bring the shoes closer together to fit the drum) . It can loosen (expand) but it doesnt move when trying to tighten, and yes the lever is up while attempting to tighten
They get rust and seize a lot. You may have to take it apart and clean it up. This is part of why we sell a clean lube and adjust service rather than simply an adjustment service
In an ideal world yes. But after years of use, rust, and brake dust... we often find them not self adjusting. So a "clean, lube, adjust" service is common.
@@paulkelley86 Ok, thanks for the reply. I am just doing my first brake job, the parking brake mechanisms were rusted and jammed and I am replacing them. I noticed the auto adjust mechanism and saw that with the drum off, it kept incrementing the wheel when I flipped the parking brake. I could not get the drum back on so I figured I needed to back it up. It worked, but the brakes were squishy. I got under and cranked the cable a bunch and it seemed to tighten it up a little. I am watching videos online to learn what is going on.
@@kf3en as many do, that is the best part about TH-cam. The parking brake cable adjustment may help but better to adjust using the star wheel inside the drum. Then as necessary adjust the parking brake cable. Basically the star wheel adjusts for shoe wear. And the cable adjuster is for cable stretch. Most of the time it is just shoe wear.
Hi Paul. Bought a 16 Tacoma. Applied the parking brake for the first time and it locked up. I put the truck in reverse and it freed up, but now the parking brake no longer works, at all. Pulled the rear drums and adjusted the star wheel, slight drag on both drums but parking brake still doesn’t hold at all. The parking brake lever has almost no resistance for the first 2 inches that is pulled up, then will click 4-5 times but still doesn’t have any hold at all. Should I attempt to adjust the parking brake cable underneath the center console at this time, or are the cables toast? Possibly something else going on?
@@paulkelley86 yes. I just looked and both cables have spots near the rear where the casing looks to have dry rotted and I can see the cables inside. They do look rusty.
@jrboulding6467 pretty typical, if inside the drum looked like all the parts were there and your adjustment is good I would proceed to replacing all cables.
Would adjusting my rear brakes give me a firm pedal? Started getting a squeaking noise in the rear whenever I back up and brakes feel soft. Front brakes are good as well as the rotors too.
The pedal will be higher. Typically soft is due to air in the system. But a lot of times people perceive the low pedal as a soft pedal and when the adjustment is done it seems more firm to them. Probably will take care of it.
Excellent video A quick query If the hand brake is loose what is the number of careful clicks to start with 3 clicks then rev the wheel minimum.2 rev is ok or more Thanks
Before worrying about the handbrake you first adjust the rear shoes. I adjust the rear brakes this way: 1. Raise both rear wheels off the ground. Keep the wheels/tires on. 2. Lay under the car (assuming no vehicle lift) behind a tire and spin it by hand and listen for the brake shoes contacting the drum. You probably wont hear any contact. 3. Use a brake adjusting tool (see below) called a brake spoon to reach in the hole in the backing plate and turn the star adjuster a couple clicks. You will hear it. If you dont hear it you are probably trying to turn the star the wrong direction. 4. Spin the tire again and listen for shoe to drum contact. 5. Continue 3 and 4 until you hear a very slight touch. When you get comfortable with finding and turning the star you can spin the wheel and adjust at the same time. 6. When you feel or hear the shoes just slightly touch the drum stop. Pump the brake pedal a couple times. This will recenter the shoes, and you will probably find you need to adjust a bit more. 7. Keep doing 3- 6 until you hear an ever so slight contact of the shoes to the drum. Dont over-adjust. Things expand when heated and you dont want your brakes dragging. 8. Repeat on the other side. Once the rear brakes are adjusted properly, you can then test the handbrake. You should get 3-5 clicks when you apply it. If you get a lot more than that its time for a handbrake cable adjustment. This tool from Amazon looks like the one I have used for 30 years, and is small enough to get into the tightest of spaces with the perfect angle. I get no comp from this- Performance Tool W178C Brake Spoon, 7". Local auto parts stores will also carry brake spoons.
@@mikmik4205 Hope it helps. One main thing to remember is to leave the wheels/tires on the vehicle and the lug nuts tightened to specification. With the wheel on it is pressing the brake drum against the axle hub equally around the circumference. Basically, you will be adjusting in the natural running position. Good Luck.
@@steadyeddie7453 thanks for the help. Wouldn’t it make the access harder what i was thinking to support on axles remove the wheel, tighten both so that i feel a slight brake or 2 3 revs then put the wheel and test it
@kevinreppel2459 no, but if you feel you have it right, you can jump in and press the pedal to do a final test. The pedal should be firm and high off the floor. If its too close to the floor they are still adjusted too loose. Just make sure both drums are on before you press the pedal.
Should the handbrake not adjust the handbrake as I pull it up? I do it the way you show when I install new brakes or have to adjust. But I always thought the handbrake should adjust automatically?
I'd everything is in perfect condition it should yes. That's the design. But in practical application it rarely keeps the brakes adjusted well. There is a lot of brake dust, rust, moisture, etc. That mechanism only creates a small amount of force, often not enough to overcome the sticking adjuster wheel.
That's a good point. The main reason is because that rarely needs adjustment. The only reason it would is if the cables are stretched. As the shoes wear, THIS is the adjustment that should be periodically performed. If the pedal feels good at the end of this procedure but the parking brake is still loose, then adjust the cable as you mentioned. For the record, everyone that skips this and jumps to cable adjustment is incorrect.
On my 03 tacoma. The handbrake pulls all the way out and does not hold the vehicle at all. Is there a way to know how much to adjust without removing the wheels or jacking up the vehicle?
You should adjust the rear brake shoes, then see how the hand brake feels, if still too loose adjust the cable. Without lifting the vehicle you won't have a good feel for brake shoe drag... so trying it on the ground seems like a waste of time to me. Lifting it is the most basic part of the job and if you are not going to do that, you are not going to be able to do the rest.
I can’t get my drum off it’s not seize to the hub. It’s like it’s stuck on something. I tried using the bolts to remove it and a pin broke as the drum was coming out. If I keep wrenching on the bolt I can feel somethings going to break inside. I tried loosening the adjuster but I’m having a really hard time and I can see the tooth being stripped because I’m trying so hard. Right now I can’t even turn the drum or drive the truck. It’s like my brakes is on and seized on that wheel. What else can I do?
The drum is worn which leaves a lip on the furthest inboard edge where the shoes don't touch. The lip gets stuck behind the shoes and when you pull the drum, it pulls the shoes too. You could keep going, it will break the hold down pins and maybe shoes but you are going to need a set of shoes, new drums, and a hardware kit which comes with the hold down pins (sounds like one already broke) and all the springs. Or You could cut the hold down pins off from behind the backing plate where they come through. Next time Adjust the shoes down smaller first so the clear the lip when you pull the drum. This happens all the time, a lot of entry level technicians won't pull drums to inspect the brakes because this happens to them and they don't know how to prevent it in the future. Check out the backside of the backing plate, where the little rubber plug is you should be able to adjust the shoes down but it sounds like it may be too late for that this time.
@@paulkelley86 thank you for the advice. I tried wrenching the bolt al the way and it just became loose after. I think the drum move out too far and the bolt isn’t touching the hun any more.
@@deegaw11 for sure, you can carefully put a pry bar on the edge of the drum and hit the prybar with a hammer to get it off. Normally we don't do that unless absolutely necessary but in this case you ate going to have to replace the drum and shoes so who cares about the prybar.Then replace everything that is damaged. My bet just a hardware kit.
@@paulkelley86 I tried using a pry bar behind the drum but it was bending the back plate so I stopped. I already ordered new drums, hardware kit and shoes so I’m prepared to do whatever lol
@@deegaw11 yeah sometimes it goes that way. I don't mean to pry against the backing plate, I mean to catch the edge of the drum and hammer the prybar directly. But you are getting there, you will make it happen. Good luck
@@builtbybruno Without God no me, and the various people I learned from over the years who invested in me, so you were right. Hope you got yours all squared away. Ps sorry I did not see this before, some ding dong in the comments is telling me I I a "lousy mechanic" and he doesn't want me to touch his Tacoma so I am getting notifications haha.
There are a few different types. The one I believe you are referring to adjusts to the ID of the drum and then you move the tool to the shoes and adjust them till they touch. Then slide the drum on. It's a nice tool, but it won't work if you have any lip on the inboard edge of the drum. If the drums are in really good condition though, it is nice, just not a fix all tool.
@@paulkelley86 The one you are describing is called a brake shoe adjustment caliper. It's useless unless (like you said) there is no lip in the drum. But even then, it only gets you close. You will still have to put the wheel back on, torque the lug nuts, and adjust the shoes with the brake spoon through the backing plate. So just buy the cheaper tool (spoon) and use one adjustment process.
Why would u even comment then keep it moving the guy is obviously trying to educate someone that has no brake expertise just give him a thumbs up and move along snowflake
just nice to see someone else struggling with it....will yank my tires off in the AM and tighten it down a bit more. Really appreciate the video, still useful years later!
My 2002 Tacoma brakes were soft after I replaced the shoes. And the next day I was greasing the driveshaft and found that if I pulled on the ebrake cable it would adjust the brakes out making them tighter against the drum. This has made the brakes work great.
I could hear the adjuster wheel clicking every time I pulled the cable.
If all the adjuster parts are nice an clean that will work. If there is rust or a build up of brake dust on the adjuster threads it won't. The stuff I see regularly won't work. But you are right!
When I replaced the shoes I cleaned and greased everything that needed greased.
Even though it’s a 2002 everything was working as if it were new. Also all springs were replaced to with a spring kit. 👍
2 questions- Does the wheel have to be off the ground in order to adjust? Also, will this adjust the parking brake as well? (I’m getting a very light grab when applying the foot parking brake too the floor) ... I’ve been trying to find the spindle for an hour or so and it is tough to locate blindly!
The drum is part of the parking brake. You just have to adjust the shoe enough to make a small contact with resistence and your tight enough.
Thank you for taking the time to do this. It Helped !!!!!!!!!
A wide stubby flat head worked te best for me. Taking the whole drum off seeing getting the feel and fighting just so you can get it back on the doing the rest while having two lugs nuts on the drum so you know its all the way down.
Fitting*
Thank you so much for doing this ! It rally helped me! I like to have never found something on this! Thank Paul!
that adjusting the parking brake last is huge tip for me thanks great vid!
Best way to adjust rear brake shoes is. Before adjusting . Have parking brake off, remove drum and clean shoes/parts and drum, to prevent any brake noise. Then install drum and wheel. Torque your wheels. If you do want your drums/rotors to warp. Keep vehicle jack up . Turn your wheel by hand to check how loose your brakes are then start adjusting. Do a couple clicks on the adjuster and then turn the wheel and repeat and till your wheel turns 1/2 or 3/4 of a full turn . Then apply your parking brake and release or press on your brake pedal a couple of times and re check adjustment. Re Adjust if necessary.. y
Great video. How do I know if brake shoes need replacing?
Lining thickness below 1mm is replacement range.
Just went though very deep snow on a trail and it’s being weird now
Can you Please help. 2001 Tacoma. I replace the oil soaked rear shoes passenger side. The vehicle brake check here in Israeli still won’t pass the test. just wondering if you have any Ideas why they are not grabbing strong enough. ? Thanks. Your video was the best I found on TH-cam. (Also changed the rear axle seal. ) they check every wheel for braking power. Imcidently I have probably have the only Tacoma in Israel so I have to order parts from US.
If the new rear axle seal does not fix it, it could be looseness in the bearing or wear on the axle where the seal mates.
If the seal leaks the gear oil contaminates the shoes so you have to change every time the get oil soaked. There is nothing you can do to save them, this is documented by manufacturers and I have tried soaking, cleaning, sanding, scrubbing. Gotta replace them.
Also the brake wheel cylinder can leak brake fluid and appear oily, make sure that is not leaking by checking at the wheel cylinder boots.
Then just get new shoes in and possibly resurface or replace the drum. Do adjustment like I showed and you should be good.
Hey I adjusted both of my self adjusters but when I pull up my parking brake only the rear left wheel locks and my rear right doesn't. Does this mean I need new parking brake cables since the right one may be stretched? My car is a stick shift so I use it more often then someone with an auto.
Probably the easiest diagnosis is to pull the wheel and drum on the right side, have a helper apply and release the parking brake, and watch to see what your shoes do. DO NOT STEP ON THE BRAKE PEDAL WITH THE DRUM OFF, it will pop a wheel cylinder. But it is OK to apply and release the parking brake cable. It could be stretched, or it could be disconnected from the parking brake strut/arm mechanism inside the drum which you would see, or it could be broken inside the casing of the cable. Seen them all, tough to say but dont guess, check it out.
@@paulkelley86 what do you do if the cylinder pops?
@@medi8001 recommend replace. You may be able to reassemble but likely it will not seal again.
@@paulkelley86 ok thanks, im also having problems tightening the adjuster (to bring the shoes closer together to fit the drum) . It can loosen (expand) but it doesnt move when trying to tighten, and yes the lever is up while attempting to tighten
They get rust and seize a lot. You may have to take it apart and clean it up. This is part of why we sell a clean lube and adjust service rather than simply an adjustment service
If you pull on the parking brake it appears that this adjustment is automatic over time. Correct?
In an ideal world yes.
But after years of use, rust, and brake dust... we often find them not self adjusting. So a "clean, lube, adjust" service is common.
@@paulkelley86 Ok, thanks for the reply. I am just doing my first brake job, the parking brake mechanisms were rusted and jammed and I am replacing them. I noticed the auto adjust mechanism and saw that with the drum off, it kept incrementing the wheel when I flipped the parking brake. I could not get the drum back on so I figured I needed to back it up. It worked, but the brakes were squishy. I got under and cranked the cable a bunch and it seemed to tighten it up a little. I am watching videos online to learn what is going on.
@@kf3en as many do, that is the best part about TH-cam.
The parking brake cable adjustment may help but better to adjust using the star wheel inside the drum. Then as necessary adjust the parking brake cable.
Basically the star wheel adjusts for shoe wear.
And the cable adjuster is for cable stretch.
Most of the time it is just shoe wear.
Hi Paul. Bought a 16 Tacoma. Applied the parking brake for the first time and it locked up. I put the truck in reverse and it freed up, but now the parking brake no longer works, at all. Pulled the rear drums and adjusted the star wheel, slight drag on both drums but parking brake still doesn’t hold at all. The parking brake lever has almost no resistance for the first 2 inches that is pulled up, then will click 4-5 times but still doesn’t have any hold at all. Should I attempt to adjust the parking brake cable underneath the center console at this time, or are the cables toast? Possibly something else going on?
Do the cables look rusty? Sounds like it stretched or is about to break.
@@paulkelley86 yes. I just looked and both cables have spots near the rear where the casing looks to have dry rotted and I can see the cables inside. They do look rusty.
@jrboulding6467 pretty typical, if inside the drum looked like all the parts were there and your adjustment is good I would proceed to replacing all cables.
Would adjusting my rear brakes give me a firm pedal? Started getting a squeaking noise in the rear whenever I back up and brakes feel soft. Front brakes are good as well as the rotors too.
The pedal will be higher.
Typically soft is due to air in the system.
But a lot of times people perceive the low pedal as a soft pedal and when the adjustment is done it seems more firm to them.
Probably will take care of it.
Change the brake fluid and this will also push any possible air bubbles out
Excellent video
A quick query
If the hand brake is loose what is the number of careful clicks to start with 3 clicks then rev the wheel minimum.2 rev is ok or more
Thanks
Before worrying about the handbrake you first adjust the rear shoes. I adjust the rear brakes this way:
1. Raise both rear wheels off the ground. Keep the wheels/tires on.
2. Lay under the car (assuming no vehicle lift) behind a tire and spin it by hand and listen for the brake shoes contacting the drum. You probably wont hear any contact.
3. Use a brake adjusting tool (see below) called a brake spoon to reach in the hole in the backing plate and turn the star adjuster a couple clicks. You will hear it. If you dont hear it you are probably trying to turn the star the wrong direction.
4. Spin the tire again and listen for shoe to drum contact.
5. Continue 3 and 4 until you hear a very slight touch. When you get comfortable with finding and turning the star you can spin the wheel and adjust at the same time.
6. When you feel or hear the shoes just slightly touch the drum stop. Pump the brake pedal a couple times. This will recenter the shoes, and you will probably find you need to adjust a bit more.
7. Keep doing 3- 6 until you hear an ever so slight contact of the shoes to the drum. Dont over-adjust. Things expand when heated and you dont want your brakes dragging.
8. Repeat on the other side.
Once the rear brakes are adjusted properly, you can then test the handbrake. You should get 3-5 clicks when you apply it. If you get a lot more than that its time for a handbrake cable adjustment.
This tool from Amazon looks like the one I have used for 30 years, and is small enough to get into the tightest of spaces with the perfect angle. I get no comp from this- Performance Tool W178C Brake Spoon, 7". Local auto parts stores will also carry brake spoons.
@@steadyeddie7453 one of the best detail reply
@@steadyeddie7453 thanks a lot
@@mikmik4205 Hope it helps. One main thing to remember is to leave the wheels/tires on the vehicle and the lug nuts tightened to specification. With the wheel on it is pressing the brake drum against the axle hub equally around the circumference. Basically, you will be adjusting in the natural running position. Good Luck.
@@steadyeddie7453 thanks for the help. Wouldn’t it make the access harder what i was thinking to support on axles remove the wheel, tighten both so that i feel a slight brake or 2 3 revs then put the wheel and test it
Does someone have to push the brake pedal when you feel for tightness?
@kevinreppel2459 no, but if you feel you have it right, you can jump in and press the pedal to do a final test. The pedal should be firm and high off the floor. If its too close to the floor they are still adjusted too loose.
Just make sure both drums are on before you press the pedal.
Should the handbrake not adjust the handbrake as I pull it up? I do it the way you show when I install new brakes or have to adjust. But I always thought the handbrake should adjust automatically?
I'd everything is in perfect condition it should yes. That's the design. But in practical application it rarely keeps the brakes adjusted well. There is a lot of brake dust, rust, moisture, etc. That mechanism only creates a small amount of force, often not enough to overcome the sticking adjuster wheel.
Why don’t they talk about the E brake line adjuster that’s located under the cup holder as well after you finish tightening up the rear brake drums?
That's a good point. The main reason is because that rarely needs adjustment. The only reason it would is if the cables are stretched. As the shoes wear, THIS is the adjustment that should be periodically performed. If the pedal feels good at the end of this procedure but the parking brake is still loose, then adjust the cable as you mentioned.
For the record, everyone that skips this and jumps to cable adjustment is incorrect.
Why is both shoes leading to the top ??
On my 03 tacoma. The handbrake pulls all the way out and does not hold the vehicle at all. Is there a way to know how much to adjust without removing the wheels or jacking up the vehicle?
You should adjust the rear brake shoes, then see how the hand brake feels, if still too loose adjust the cable.
Without lifting the vehicle you won't have a good feel for brake shoe drag... so trying it on the ground seems like a waste of time to me. Lifting it is the most basic part of the job and if you are not going to do that, you are not going to be able to do the rest.
I can’t get my drum off it’s not seize to the hub. It’s like it’s stuck on something. I tried using the bolts to remove it and a pin broke as the drum was coming out. If I keep wrenching on the bolt I can feel somethings going to break inside. I tried loosening the adjuster but I’m having a really hard time and I can see the tooth being stripped because I’m trying so hard. Right now I can’t even turn the drum or drive the truck. It’s like my brakes is on and seized on that wheel. What else can I do?
The drum is worn which leaves a lip on the furthest inboard edge where the shoes don't touch. The lip gets stuck behind the shoes and when you pull the drum, it pulls the shoes too.
You could keep going, it will break the hold down pins and maybe shoes but you are going to need a set of shoes, new drums, and a hardware kit which comes with the hold down pins (sounds like one already broke) and all the springs.
Or
You could cut the hold down pins off from behind the backing plate where they come through.
Next time
Adjust the shoes down smaller first so the clear the lip when you pull the drum.
This happens all the time, a lot of entry level technicians won't pull drums to inspect the brakes because this happens to them and they don't know how to prevent it in the future.
Check out the backside of the backing plate, where the little rubber plug is you should be able to adjust the shoes down but it sounds like it may be too late for that this time.
@@paulkelley86 thank you for the advice. I tried wrenching the bolt al the way and it just became loose after. I think the drum move out too far and the bolt isn’t touching the hun any more.
@@deegaw11 for sure, you can carefully put a pry bar on the edge of the drum and hit the prybar with a hammer to get it off. Normally we don't do that unless absolutely necessary but in this case you ate going to have to replace the drum and shoes so who cares about the prybar.Then replace everything that is damaged. My bet just a hardware kit.
@@paulkelley86 I tried using a pry bar behind the drum but it was bending the back plate so I stopped. I already ordered new drums, hardware kit and shoes so I’m prepared to do whatever lol
@@deegaw11 yeah sometimes it goes that way.
I don't mean to pry against the backing plate, I mean to catch the edge of the drum and hammer the prybar directly.
But you are getting there, you will make it happen. Good luck
Best technique is not too work on drum brakes...
My older truck has four wheel drim brakes. You get good at it with some practice.
Good video! Useful.
Question why you just didn’t apply e brake before adjusting so you didn’t have get it losse again?
ebrake off
Super helpful. Thank you.
There is a access behind the drum with a rubber grommet you pop out
Thanks...now i can jack up and adjust with out taking tire off...unless spin adjuster is stuck..
Thanks so much. Great video.
Great to see how great you own not knowing what you’re trying to do
Huh?
Huh?
He has the vehicle on a lift and he’s having a hard time, try doing it on the floor!
Thank u
Thanks man
Armature mechanic forsure
Yes I work on a lot of armatures.
@@paulkelley86 amature you are
@@mattwoody1089 coming from a guy looking for how to adjust drum brakes on youtube?
Drum brakes suck! Why does my Tacoma still have them?? Don’t tell me it is better for toeing/hauling because my 3/4 ton Diesel has rear disc brakes.
Thank God for this video
@@builtbybruno Without God no me, and the various people I learned from over the years who invested in me, so you were right. Hope you got yours all squared away.
Ps sorry I did not see this before, some ding dong in the comments is telling me I I a "lousy mechanic" and he doesn't want me to touch his Tacoma so I am getting notifications haha.
@@paulkelley86 I mean it. You are the man. Also, after this the next time I change my rears I’m converting to discs hahah. God bless!
Good video
Thankyou
what an entertainer
They make a special tool for this that been around for 75 years it makes this much easier. It's called a brake adjustment tool!
There are a few different types. The one I believe you are referring to adjusts to the ID of the drum and then you move the tool to the shoes and adjust them till they touch. Then slide the drum on. It's a nice tool, but it won't work if you have any lip on the inboard edge of the drum. If the drums are in really good condition though, it is nice, just not a fix all tool.
@@paulkelley86 The one you are describing is called a brake shoe adjustment caliper. It's useless unless (like you said) there is no lip in the drum. But even then, it only gets you close. You will still have to put the wheel back on, torque the lug nuts, and adjust the shoes with the brake spoon through the backing plate. So just buy the cheaper tool (spoon) and use one adjustment process.
@@steadyeddie7453 Yeah we agree on that. Well said.
Quite a great deal of wasted time with this one. Could have been 1/4 the timeframe 😢
Get a wider screw driver
Paul, I don’t want you to touch my Tacoma
That's OK because it's not likely, seeing how I have no idea who you are.
Why would u even comment then keep it moving the guy is obviously trying to educate someone that has no brake expertise just give him a thumbs up and move along snowflake
This 🤡is the kind of mechanic (parts re-placer) that I would hate to have near my truck.
Please get to the point too much blah blah blah
He is a lousy mechanic
Wow. I have no desire to defend myself. Nice talk.
If thong knew so much why is he here?
Where's your video @ chinga batanga?
I believe mr. Thong has has his thong adjusted too tight😅