Calculate Solar Cost For Your Home - geni.us/solar_reviews DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
@@everydaysolar All Powers for both(Panels and generator). I wouldn't recommend them. My 1st generator stopped charging from all sources in less than 3 months. Its a 300wh one. They sent me a new one. The panels were rated at 140w, was getting max of 50kw on the clearest, brightest sunny day in Summer. They also sent me a new one. That was a good deal for me as I now have 2 panels and connected them via parallel , which I learned how to do from YOUR videos..
Thanks for getting me started with my system. I would recommend that you don't poke around and electric panel with a pencil, the graphite center is a conductor. I would like you around to see more of your videos.
I have this same system and would like to install a hybrid inverter and battery system so I can use it when the grid is down do you have any videos on that
You have to use #10AWG because of continue power. These two NEC rules require the overcurrent device (breaker or fuse) be sized no less than 100% of the noncontinuous load, plus 125% of the continuous loads. System is running more than 3hrs a day requires bigger wire size.
Thanks for the detailed info, very helpful! Regarding the line losses of the AC power coming from the mircoinverters into the combiner box - is there less line losses over these wires because of the fact that this is AC and not DC power, like with a DC power optimizers approach sending DC power over these lines to a string inverter approach, or are these line losses exactly the same regardless if they are sending AC or DC power down from the roof along the same length and type of wires?
Line loss is proportional to the current running through the wires and independent of whether that is AC or DC. With this in mind usually micro inverters (switching to AC) will help to keep your wire gauge lower as the current will be much lower.
I think you both need an Enpower (Smart Switch) and then Encharge (batteries 10 kWh per unit). Here is an example of the setup runonsun.solar/~runons5/blogs/media/blogs/a/2019/partial-backUp.png
I haven't been able to find any information online or enchase forum to see if I can add an existing string inverter with 30A breaker to Combiner 5. The new combiner 5 im adding will have 1 60A feed in from a QAgreggator only populated with 2 20A branches so Total input into the Combiner will be 70A well below the supported limited. Im hoping I can run my new i8+ branch and the old inverter system through this combiner, and the production CT. I don't think it will mess it up? Any Thoughts?
Thanks for the info. One question, is the combiner box responsible for detecting any reduction in power in the case of partial shading and/or panel failure? or is that the job of a regulator further down the line?
Good question, when it comes to minimizing the impact of shading on 1 or 2 panels across your entire array that would be handled at the micro inverter. This is one of the benefits of micro inverters even though string inverters often leverage "power optimizers" to do something similar.
I can't seem to get this question answered. In a seven K system I am thinking of buying they are using 18 400 watt panels with Enphase 8+ micro inverts and because I want to add a large EG4 PowerPro WallMount AllWeather Lithium Battery | 48V 280Ah | 14.3kWh LiFePO4. They are telling me that they can hook this battery up to my system included in the the cost. This will be a grid tie system so any chance you can tell me how one would connect a DC battery to this Enphase system and make it work. Thanks for any help you can off because I don't want to sign a contract and then not get my battery connected. Thanks again.
I have a string system (34 panels) with a single inverter on my homes main panel with a bi directional meter from the power company. I was told I can add or increase my solar system with a separate system on my detached garage with its own 100amp sub panel if I use panels with micro inverters and it can be supposedly be wired into my sub panel with will also feed back into my home so nothing with my original system on my house has to be changed or is effected. Is this correct?
Great video.,let me ask you something : I need to change the circuit braker # 1 that stays off, the way to install that is the same as a regular house circuit breaker box ?
quick question I have a 200 amp meter combo panel that has 4 spaces, that are all full but 1. Can I run a 200amp sub panel off of that? I'm trying to run another 100 amp sub to a shop off of the 200 amp sub(welding shop) is this possible. Thanks for the videos.
Enphase tells you how many micro inverters you can string together, but others don’t. I’m specifically looking at Aptos, and I can’t find anywhere where they say what the maximum number of inverters you can string together is. Am I missing something? Could I just string together 30 Aptos micro inverters and skip the combiner box? Thanks
In that case I would probably stick with a string inverter. What size Solar Edge do you have now? Might also look how you are feeding power into your main panel. If you are going into a breaker on your bus bar you might be already at the max breaker size for the size of panel. You have to follow the "120% rule" called out by NEC. In a standard 200 Amp breaker that would be 40 Amps. Little hard to know all the different factors to consider and you could jump over to our Everyday Solar Facebook Group if you want to dive deeper.
Nope, we are using Ephase iQ8M micro inverters. So the output from each of the micro inverters in 240V in series consisting of 9 on 2 of the circuits and 10 on the 3rd circuit for a total on 28 panels/micro inverters. Hope that makes sense 👍
@@everydaysolar "the micro inverters in 240V in series ", Please correct me if I am wrong. The IQ8M are in series, but the 240V from those MicroInverter are in parallel (to keep voltage at 240V). Each string produce 240V, combined in the combiner box. I assume you have a 120 / 240V "split phase" residential feed thus only 1 phase. (the usual residential feed in the USA, unless you have 3 phases.) Thus at 3:10 you have 2 lines (L1-red, L2-black, N- white). Not 2 phases. Ground is green 240 V between the L1 and L2. 120 V between L1 and N. or L2 and N (the IQ-Gateway board is connected to 120V)
I just got a quote for $30k for a 16kW system. No batteries and will consist of 38 415w Bluesun panels with apsystems microinverters. Do you think that's a fair price?
The pricing is very competitive per watt. Almost too good to be honest. I paid over $3/watt and you are at less than $2/watt. I have a DIY installation coming up and it will still be $2/watt just for the equipment (Tier 1). I don't have any experience with Bluesun and Ap Systems but definitely not as common as REC, QCell, Trina, etc. and Enphase for the microinverters.
Hello, Pls, can you share your expertise advise on how I can connect a battery backup with my existing Enphase system? I plan on using a third party battery I purchased from China. I have two 10kWh batteries that I plan on connecting in parallel. One of the batteries has an inbuilt 5KW inverter and I have another 5KW inverter (same brand) that I plan on paralleling as well as both are 120V. For my existing solar system, I have a combined box as well as 3G system controller. I understand how to connect the inverters in parallel, but not sure how to connect with my system controller. Pls, I’ll appreciate your help in walking me through this process. I can share my number with you if you don’t mind. Really need your help. Thank you.
I have a grid tied system with this combiner setup....I want to add a battery but dont want to go the Tesla I was looking at ecoflow backup systems...are the two compatible or do I even need to mess with the combiner to incorporate backups...just trying to be cost efficient and not overpay
Calculate Solar Cost For Your Home - geni.us/solar_reviews
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
So awesome to see our work on your channel! Looks clean and I’m happy you’re happy with your install!
Yeah buddy, thanks for the help Julian 👍
Ran into this seeking info since my IQ Combiner 3 PCB failed. They sent me a replacement. But solar company wants $250 just to show up. Nice info.
Solar is Fun! I got portable panels, a solar generator and my big 10.3kw roof top system.
What brand did you go with for your solar generator?
@@everydaysolar All Powers for both(Panels and generator). I wouldn't recommend them. My 1st generator stopped charging from all sources in less than 3 months. Its a 300wh one. They sent me a new one. The panels were rated at 140w, was getting max of 50kw on the clearest, brightest sunny day in Summer. They also sent me a new one. That was a good deal for me as I now have 2 panels and connected them via parallel , which I learned how to do from YOUR videos..
Thanks for getting me started with my system. I would recommend that you don't poke around and electric panel with a pencil, the graphite center is a conductor. I would like you around to see more of your videos.
Thanks for the feedback and appreciate the concern 👍
I have this same system and would like to install a hybrid inverter and battery system so I can use it when the grid is down do you have any videos on that
You have to use #10AWG because of continue power. These two NEC rules require the overcurrent device (breaker or fuse) be sized no less than 100% of the noncontinuous load, plus 125% of the continuous loads. System is running more than 3hrs a day requires bigger wire size.
Thanks for the detailed info, very helpful!
Regarding the line losses of the AC power coming from the mircoinverters into the combiner box - is there less line losses over these wires because of the fact that this is AC and not DC power, like with a DC power optimizers approach sending DC power over these lines to a string inverter approach, or are these line losses exactly the same regardless if they are sending AC or DC power down from the roof along the same length and type of wires?
Line loss is proportional to the current running through the wires and independent of whether that is AC or DC. With this in mind usually micro inverters (switching to AC) will help to keep your wire gauge lower as the current will be much lower.
Great video! Can you make a video about the output of the combiner box to your main panel?
Where do I plug batteries to my solar grid tied system? Is in the combiner box or is in another place?
Great video. How can I add batteries to my existing enphase system?
I think you both need an Enpower (Smart Switch) and then Encharge (batteries 10 kWh per unit). Here is an example of the setup runonsun.solar/~runons5/blogs/media/blogs/a/2019/partial-backUp.png
I haven't been able to find any information online or enchase forum to see if I can add an existing string inverter with 30A breaker to Combiner 5. The new combiner 5 im adding will have 1 60A feed in from a QAgreggator only populated with 2 20A branches so Total input into the Combiner will be 70A well below the supported limited. Im hoping I can run my new i8+ branch and the old inverter system through this combiner, and the production CT. I don't think it will mess it up? Any Thoughts?
Thanks for the info. One question, is the combiner box responsible for detecting any reduction in power in the case of partial shading and/or panel failure? or is that the job of a regulator further down the line?
Good question, when it comes to minimizing the impact of shading on 1 or 2 panels across your entire array that would be handled at the micro inverter. This is one of the benefits of micro inverters even though string inverters often leverage "power optimizers" to do something similar.
The micros communicate with the envoy which is inside the combiner box and then the envoy talks to your wifi. You can see it all in the enlighten app
Is it possible to connect two combiner boxes together and feed them into one breaker on the main panel?
I'm surprised the Enphase combiner box doesn't include the required cutoff switch. Nice video BTW!
The switch is required as a separate component.
I can't seem to get this question answered. In a seven K system I am thinking of buying they are using 18 400 watt panels with Enphase 8+ micro inverts and because I want to add a large EG4 PowerPro WallMount AllWeather Lithium Battery | 48V 280Ah | 14.3kWh LiFePO4. They are telling me that they can hook this battery up to my system included in the the cost. This will be a grid tie system so any chance you can tell me how one would connect a DC battery to this Enphase system and make it work. Thanks for any help you can off because I don't want to sign a contract and then not get my battery connected. Thanks again.
I have a string system (34 panels) with a single inverter on my homes main panel with a bi directional meter from the power company. I was told I can add or increase my solar system with a separate system on my detached garage with its own 100amp sub panel if I use panels with micro inverters and it can be supposedly be wired into my sub panel with will also feed back into my home so nothing with my original system on my house has to be changed or is effected. Is this correct?
Great video.,let me ask you something : I need to change the circuit braker # 1 that stays off, the way to install that is the same as a regular house circuit breaker box ?
Yes, that is correct. Just ensure you cut the power prior to removing the cover and swapping out the breaker.
Can the emphases 5T battery be connected directly to the IQ Combiner 4c?
Can you use this system without tying it to the grid?
quick question I have a 200 amp meter combo panel that has 4 spaces, that are all full but 1. Can I run a 200amp sub panel off of that? I'm trying to run another 100 amp sub to a shop off of the 200 amp sub(welding shop) is this possible.
Thanks for the videos.
You just have 1 open space? So can’t even fit a double pull 240V breaker ( 2 spaces)?
@@everydaysolar could i transfer the other breaker to a sub panel next to it with more space
Enphase tells you how many micro inverters you can string together, but others don’t. I’m specifically looking at Aptos, and I can’t find anywhere where they say what the maximum number of inverters you can string together is. Am I missing something? Could I just string together 30 Aptos micro inverters and skip the combiner box? Thanks
What is the best way to upgrade a Solar edge system I’m not outputting enough and need about ten more panels
In that case I would probably stick with a string inverter. What size Solar Edge do you have now? Might also look how you are feeding power into your main panel. If you are going into a breaker on your bus bar you might be already at the max breaker size for the size of panel. You have to follow the "120% rule" called out by NEC. In a standard 200 Amp breaker that would be 40 Amps. Little hard to know all the different factors to consider and you could jump over to our Everyday Solar Facebook Group if you want to dive deeper.
That's a huge price on that install.😮
So the input is already from an external inverter. So 3 externals?
Nope, we are using Ephase iQ8M micro inverters. So the output from each of the micro inverters in 240V in series consisting of 9 on 2 of the circuits and 10 on the 3rd circuit for a total on 28 panels/micro inverters. Hope that makes sense 👍
@@everydaysolar is that more efficient than larger inverters?
@@everydaysolar "the micro inverters in 240V in series ", Please correct me if I am wrong. The IQ8M are in series, but the 240V from those MicroInverter are in parallel (to keep voltage at 240V). Each string produce 240V, combined in the combiner box. I assume you have a 120 / 240V "split phase" residential feed thus only 1 phase. (the usual residential feed in the USA, unless you have 3 phases.) Thus at 3:10 you have 2 lines (L1-red, L2-black, N- white). Not 2 phases.
Ground is green
240 V between the L1 and L2.
120 V between L1 and N. or L2 and N (the IQ-Gateway board is connected to 120V)
I have to replace my combiner box. An you show me how to shut down everything in the proper order?
don't use a pencil with it's electrically-conductive graphite core to poke around 240v. Use a 100% plastic rod or spoon if you must.
Good info.
Thanks for the continued support 👍
I live in the Philippines'. The grid has no zero lead. Just 2 127V leads making 240V. How do I connect a combiner box with 2 fases.
Does the system have the ability to program to " zero export"?
Yep, if you have IQ7 or IQ8 Enphase micro-inverters and IQ Gateway you can set power export limits.
I just got a quote for $30k for a 16kW system. No batteries and will consist of 38 415w Bluesun panels with apsystems microinverters. Do you think that's a fair price?
The pricing is very competitive per watt. Almost too good to be honest. I paid over $3/watt and you are at less than $2/watt. I have a DIY installation coming up and it will still be $2/watt just for the equipment (Tier 1). I don't have any experience with Bluesun and Ap Systems but definitely not as common as REC, QCell, Trina, etc. and Enphase for the microinverters.
Hell of a deal especially a licensed company doing the install. It’s easily nearly 2xs more. Run with it
How there are strings when its a mincro inverter system?
Because everything has to be connected together
Hello,
Pls, can you share your expertise advise on how I can connect a battery backup with my existing Enphase system?
I plan on using a third party battery I purchased from China. I have two 10kWh batteries that I plan on connecting in parallel. One of the batteries has an inbuilt 5KW inverter and I have another 5KW inverter (same brand) that I plan on paralleling as well as both are 120V.
For my existing solar system, I have a combined box as well as 3G system controller.
I understand how to connect the inverters in parallel, but not sure how to connect with my system controller.
Pls, I’ll appreciate your help in walking me through this process. I can share my number with you if you don’t mind. Really need your help.
Thank you.
For $380 more I opted for the 4C.
I guess my DC combiner box doesn't exist? Not everyone uses micro inverters either.
It looks like they wired your 15A breaker in the combiner box incorrectly.
The 15AMP is for the monitoring envoy to track production.
Yes, but the polarity is incorrect
why cant you just go straight into your panel instead of using a combiner box ?
Jana Mountain
I have a grid tied system with this combiner setup....I want to add a battery but dont want to go the Tesla I was looking at ecoflow backup systems...are the two compatible or do I even need to mess with the combiner to incorporate backups...just trying to be cost efficient and not overpay