Honest review, thank you. Just assembled mine. Same problems. I will also need to use a larger disc, and a shim (as someone here suggested). I will clearly need to modify, however for the price, for me, is a good starting point 🤞without needing to make one myself. Intriguing that the manufacture pattern has been used by several companies but none have modified it to address these issues 🤔
I bought the one with the slider on sale from Her Majesty Princess Auto. Yes, a 5" disc will obviously cut deeper. I think the key is you need to take your time assembling this tool and aligning it. Another commenter mentioned adding a shim to the hinge area. After that, it should cut very straight.
OK for small section flat bar. I use one to trim off 38mmx3mm bar so that I don't need to be messing about with my big, clunky cut-off saw. As long as accuracy isn't needed, it's a fine way to cut thin stuff to rough dimensions. For me, it's good enough for that kind of work. You can pick them up for cheap second hand (I paid $10AU). Accurate cutting tools always demand a higher price and will still require some finishing of the workpiece. Get a used one, accept it for what it is and use it only on things it can cope with, you probably won't be disappointed then.
This can cut pretty straight if you do two things: (1) screw the two side screws that attach to the grinder fully in first, then tighten the part where they attach to the plate; (2) add a thin plastic sheet where the arm connects to the base. There is too much of a wobby gap when you bring down the grinder. I cut a round shape washer out of a plastic take away lid.
Old video I know but I've found the proper fix to the issue atleast for some versions. If you look at the part that connects the arm to the base you'll see the black plastic brackets that hold down the rod the arm moves on. Remove those black plastic pieces and then lift up the whole thing and you'll have the thick metal rod which the arm moves on, and then you notice two black spacer/washers on both ends inside of the hole through which the metal rod passes. Pull out these round spacers and if you notice that they are fitting rather loose then that's the issue. Put some tape or in my case heatshrink and then push the thing back into the hole, maybe use some superglue or epoxy if you really wanted. Then just assemble like before. Got the entire assembly now no longer moving, it's just solid. All by getting the loose plastic spacer to fit tight into the hole
Thanks for the video it proves the idea of what I already had. Too small too flimsy. But you can make one from plywood with a much better quality that I did. Works fine but the disk size is too small and the disk is getting smaller by every cut. So the next one I'm going to make is the same idea but for a 7 inch grinder. I wish I had a channel to show you what I do .
I think what you need to do, is put something perfectly square into the vise, and then adjust horizontal square of the ARM itself, using the blade against your piece in the vise, as your reference. …..or adjust the vise, in the same way.
do not push hard using these inexpensive stands as they will flex and throw the angel off...just use a very light pressure and let the weight of the the grinder slowly cut...you will get a true angle then.
I bought one with a slider arm. Not tested yet, but when assembling it I wondered about having this same kind of problems. Much more expensive: around $50
There are 2 extra nuts and bolts the extra nuts fit the two rubber ended all threads from the opposite side of the grinder and it holds 90° through the cut for me I don't know what the nuts and bolts were for they aren't listed in the manual or any videos I've seen on it it's a great tool I use it for metal, wood, and PVC it is size limited but much safer and accurate and consistent than cutting by hand with a grinder I hope this helps anyone debating getting it
If you have an evolution I think you only use this for hardened steel cutting. I have read of others also having the bottoming problem. Would be interested in a follow on video if you find an answer. I saw others removing the back clamp to get more clearance. But I think you are stuck with a shallow cut because the blade has small diameter to begin with and then max depth is limited to happen only at one place. I think this is why that other model came about (green) because it has a slide to move the max depth along the cutting slot.
i also have the same issue it just goes wild while cutting - it does not cut straight. But I remember fastening something and it stayed rigid to its cut without deviating. Let me check that and come back to you.
The two bolts that goes into the grinder threaded holes on two sides you have to fasten them maximum. This helps that the blade soes not move while cutting.
I see that you are using the WRONG tool for measuring the angle of 90⁰... these toys(sorry) are not for profesionals... because they can be off sometimes 10⁰
its bad product, cant cut deep enough, cant cut straight. mine just for cutting iron bar (6mm, 8mm, 10mm) for concrete contruction right now. not worth buying
Honest review, thank you. Just assembled mine. Same problems. I will also need to use a larger disc, and a shim (as someone here suggested). I will clearly need to modify, however for the price, for me, is a good starting point 🤞without needing to make one myself. Intriguing that the manufacture pattern has been used by several companies but none have modified it to address these issues 🤔
I bought the one with the slider on sale from Her Majesty Princess Auto. Yes, a 5" disc will obviously cut deeper. I think the key is you need to take your time assembling this tool and aligning it. Another commenter mentioned adding a shim to the hinge area. After that, it should cut very straight.
OK for small section flat bar. I use one to trim off 38mmx3mm bar so that I don't need to be messing about with my big, clunky cut-off saw. As long as accuracy isn't needed, it's a fine way to cut thin stuff to rough dimensions. For me, it's good enough for that kind of work. You can pick them up for cheap second hand (I paid $10AU). Accurate cutting tools always demand a higher price and will still require some finishing of the workpiece. Get a used one, accept it for what it is and use it only on things it can cope with, you probably won't be disappointed then.
This can cut pretty straight if you do two things: (1) screw the two side screws that attach to the grinder fully in first, then tighten the part where they attach to the plate; (2) add a thin plastic sheet where the arm connects to the base. There is too much of a wobby gap when you bring down the grinder. I cut a round shape washer out of a plastic take away lid.
By -1- you mean the screws with the rubber boot on them?And i am confused about where you suggest we add a plastic sheet
Old video I know but I've found the proper fix to the issue atleast for some versions. If you look at the part that connects the arm to the base you'll see the black plastic brackets that hold down the rod the arm moves on. Remove those black plastic pieces and then lift up the whole thing and you'll have the thick metal rod which the arm moves on, and then you notice two black spacer/washers on both ends inside of the hole through which the metal rod passes.
Pull out these round spacers and if you notice that they are fitting rather loose then that's the issue. Put some tape or in my case heatshrink and then push the thing back into the hole, maybe use some superglue or epoxy if you really wanted. Then just assemble like before. Got the entire assembly now no longer moving, it's just solid. All by getting the loose plastic spacer to fit tight into the hole
Thanks for the video it proves the idea of what I already had. Too small too flimsy. But you can make one from plywood with a much better quality that I did. Works fine but the disk size is too small and the disk is getting smaller by every cut. So the next one I'm going to make is the same idea but for a 7 inch grinder. I wish I had a channel to show you what I do .
Do not wish, start one!
Awesomeness
I think what you need to do, is put something perfectly square into the vise, and then adjust horizontal square of the ARM itself, using the blade against your piece in the vise, as your reference. …..or adjust the vise, in the same way.
do not push hard using these inexpensive stands as they will flex and throw the angel off...just use a very light pressure and let the weight of the the grinder slowly cut...you will get a true angle then.
I bought one with a slider arm. Not tested yet, but when assembling it I wondered about having this same kind of problems.
Much more expensive: around $50
I have that one, too. If you take your time assembling and aligning, it should cut straight.
There are 2 extra nuts and bolts the extra nuts fit the two rubber ended all threads from the opposite side of the grinder and it holds 90° through the cut for me I don't know what the nuts and bolts were for they aren't listed in the manual or any videos I've seen on it it's a great tool I use it for metal, wood, and PVC it is size limited but much safer and accurate and consistent than cutting by hand with a grinder I hope this helps anyone debating getting it
Thanks, I will look into it.
Honest review
If you have an evolution I think you only use this for hardened steel cutting. I have read of others also having the bottoming problem. Would be interested in a follow on video if you find an answer. I saw others removing the back clamp to get more clearance. But I think you are stuck with a shallow cut because the blade has small diameter to begin with and then max depth is limited to happen only at one place. I think this is why that other model came about (green) because it has a slide to move the max depth along the cutting slot.
i also have the same issue it just goes wild while cutting - it does not cut straight. But I remember fastening something and it stayed rigid to its cut without deviating. Let me check that and come back to you.
The two bolts that goes into the grinder threaded holes on two sides you have to fasten them maximum. This helps that the blade soes not move while cutting.
Good vídeo
This is the best thing ever
do not cut directly,
cut up & down so that the result is straight
I see that you are using the WRONG tool for measuring the angle of 90⁰... these toys(sorry) are not for profesionals... because they can be off sometimes 10⁰
its bad product, cant cut deep enough, cant cut straight.
mine just for cutting iron bar (6mm, 8mm, 10mm) for concrete contruction right now. not worth buying
yes its horrible. really useless. good for iron bars as you say.