I have been using Iwasaki files for over 5 years. You discovered what you need to know. A good (or great as in the Auriou) traditional rasp will do the rough work faster. Regardless of fineness, however, a traditional rasp will leave a rougher finish, even though it feels fine. The Iwasaki file picks up where the traditional rasp leaves off. The chatter you experienced when trying to pick up over the saw-rasp shaping is typical because the file requires a less aggressive technique and a lower angle. I make slot head instruments almost exclusively, and I prefer a flat string ramp into the slots. Using the Iwasaki file only I can get the work done in ten minutes and must watch my progress carefully, lest I cut too deeply! Thanks for the perfect demo.
I'm young and pretty much a pure amateur but every time I watch these videos I learn a ton! I myself have a Shinto rasp and it's unbelievable, I gotta check out the Iwasaki now!
Wow... These seem like a rasp with the amount of wood they can remove when you get aggressive but turn into a file or even a plane when you dial it back just a bit. The smoothness is just amazing even when you are being aggressive. I wonder how much smoother those tools can get! And yes, it is extremely hard to beat the Japanese as far as anything dealing with woodworking goes. I've watched documentaries on how they build and how they more or less do everything they can to work with nature rather than against it like westerners tend to do. It's just mind-blowing.
Great demo and comparisons. All three, clearly, have their own use. The Iwasakis look to be at home around the head and to clean up after the more aggressive tools. All three are " must haves". You nailed the video demo I have been looking for .Thanks.
Hi, could you film at 1080p pr more ? sometimes you show some really little details and as your work and tools you use are very fine and delicate, I think we could all appreciate a higher resolution. Thank you ! :D
I have 2 Iwasaki rasps, a Shinto and a Liogier cabinet makers rasp. They each perform differently but they are all brilliant and I can’t imagine ever needing to ‘upgrade’ any of them.
That feeling you had when you sat there looking at your other files and tried to find a way to convince yourself that the lovely Auriou is better, I'm getting that from just now realizing the little curved half-round iwasaki exists and am kinda glad I didn't try to save up for a more expensive saw handle maker rasp now. Appreciate the playing around with them to see how they attack less friendly grain!
Love the iwasaki files. I do agree with Ben on the initial shaping of the neck that a saw rasp is key. However, I've had good luck with a ferriers rasp (horse shoe rasp) as well. They are big, but if used with care, they're very useful.
This is what you need to review. Excellent. Everything is shown in the case, not the reasoning around the rasp.
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Nice looking tools! I was watching a documentary featuring Japanese carpenters who use hand tools and files to build Buddhist temples. And the crazy part is, these places built rely on joints, dovetails, dowels, etc. The most amazing thing is, no nails, screws, bolts, no fasteners used at all. And these wooden structures have lasted for hundreds of years to this very day.
I also own tho of the medium Iwasaki files, they also took me a bit of getting used to, they don't work like our usual rasps. I love the half round one, I'm gonna order two small ones (with the red handle). These files cause more tear-out than normal rasps though, they need a more careful use.
These seem similar to floats, which were often used by wooden plane makers and equally difficult to describe (it's kind of a plane-rasp thing. Sort of.) I'd love to use floats (especially because they can be resharpened), but they're few and far between and Lie-Nielsen's run about $75 _each_ (I don't want to use them _that_ bad!) I'm assuming these can't be resharpened, but for the price they look tempting to try out!
Hi, the plane floats are suitable for flat areas, but they'd be very rough on curved areas. Plane floats also will created a chattered surface (not like a vibration type chatter, but they will make small troughs, the surface isn't perfectly clean. A better choice for flat areas and finish is a nicholson super shear. For plane handles, I generally use a cheaper coarse rasp (hand stitched, but made somewhere in the second or third world, followed by a coarse double cut file and then either a scraper or a single cut file. I've never favored expensive rasps for fine work on handles, except where you need the shape of a bent sawmaker's rasp or something to avoid interference.
Ben, I am working on my first build with a swamp ash body and will be grain filling black to accent the grain, dyeing multi-shades of green, and finishing with CG Finishing Oil & Renaissance wax as per your Bari-Tele series. I have lots of abrasives on hand (3M & Mirka Abranet, wire wool) and wanted your input as to what grits I should use before/after grain filling, and before/during/after applications of your finishing oil. Thanks very kindly. Cheers, Matt B
They look to be incredible tools. Can I ask do you use any kind of profile gauge when working on a neck like that, or is it just hand eye coordination. Loved the video as usual. Regards Phil Hale aka Philyaboots Building CBGs.
I have about 5 Iwasaki files. although some can come with that black handle. I MUCH prefer to get the tanged ones and put my own screw-on Lutz handle. They come in Medium, fine and Extra-fine and can be pretty aggressive.
It seems great, look like aluminium files, I'd like to try one of these ! To me, even the fine rasps always leave scratches, I use them only to remove a lot of material. I've got a big rough Liogier (Very similar to Auriou) that is beyond effective for that. After that, finer rasps, western swiss files (vallorbe) then scrapers. I think these Iwasaki could replace both fine rasping/filing step ^^ Therefore I wonder how good/bad they clog, and how long they last !
+Ian Clarke they took me by surprise, it really is like holding a few hundred tiny planes rather than a file or rasp and took some getting used to but I am in love!
he's said in other videos the reason behind not using them is because theyre more likely to break. on the solid necks he's built, he claimed he could stand on one and the headstock didn't snap, however with the scarf joints they did. I'm pretty sure it was also a multi laminate neck he made and was talking about, but that the main reason behind it I believe
I've watched this video and bought iwasaki files, because that was one of fastest opotions... though curved file is ok, the straight one is awfull. It leaves groves and you probably won't carve the whole guitar neck joint using it. To my expirience, the best tool for this job is heavy harsh 300m no. 1 metal file
I don't know if you deal with this but I'll ask anyway. If you have a pickup that is not working and it is soldered properly with no visible broken wires what is the reason it wouldn't be working? Thanks.
Dude as much as i appreciate the videos and love the guitars you build i must tell you that the technique you employ here doesn't enable you to get the best from that file.
What a sense of entitlement you have! How much did you PAY for this lesson? The man is GIVING you his insight FOR FREE. Maybe say, “thank you” and sod off.
I have been using Iwasaki files for over 5 years. You discovered what you need to know. A good (or great as in the Auriou) traditional rasp will do the rough work faster. Regardless of fineness, however, a traditional rasp will leave a rougher finish, even though it feels fine. The Iwasaki file picks up where the traditional rasp leaves off. The chatter you experienced when trying to pick up over the saw-rasp shaping is typical because the file requires a less aggressive technique and a lower angle. I make slot head instruments almost exclusively, and I prefer a flat string ramp into the slots. Using the Iwasaki file only I can get the work done in ten minutes and must watch my progress carefully, lest I cut too deeply! Thanks for the perfect demo.
Do you use a fine or medium?
@@akfisher7138 Both.
I'm young and pretty much a pure amateur but every time I watch these videos I learn a ton! I myself have a Shinto rasp and it's unbelievable, I gotta check out the Iwasaki now!
In Aviation Maintenance we use those files in sheetmetal work and filing nicks and dings out of propellers. I've always known them as Vixen Files.
Wow... These seem like a rasp with the amount of wood they can remove when you get aggressive but turn into a file or even a plane when you dial it back just a bit. The smoothness is just amazing even when you are being aggressive. I wonder how much smoother those tools can get! And yes, it is extremely hard to beat the Japanese as far as anything dealing with woodworking goes. I've watched documentaries on how they build and how they more or less do everything they can to work with nature rather than against it like westerners tend to do. It's just mind-blowing.
Great demo and comparisons. All three, clearly, have their own use. The Iwasakis look to be at home around the head and to clean up after the more aggressive tools. All three are " must haves". You nailed the video demo I have been looking for .Thanks.
Hi, could you film at 1080p pr more ? sometimes you show some really little details and as your work and tools you use are very fine and delicate, I think we could all appreciate a higher resolution. Thank you ! :D
I have 2 Iwasaki rasps, a Shinto and a Liogier cabinet makers rasp. They each perform differently but they are all brilliant and I can’t imagine ever needing to ‘upgrade’ any of them.
That feeling you had when you sat there looking at your other files and tried to find a way to convince yourself that the lovely Auriou is better, I'm getting that from just now realizing the little curved half-round iwasaki exists and am kinda glad I didn't try to save up for a more expensive saw handle maker rasp now. Appreciate the playing around with them to see how they attack less friendly grain!
One suggestion would be that a file will leave fewer scratches when it is lifted off the wood for its return stroke.
Love the iwasaki files. I do agree with Ben on the initial shaping of the neck that a saw rasp is key. However, I've had good luck with a ferriers rasp (horse shoe rasp) as well. They are big, but if used with care, they're very useful.
This is what you need to review. Excellent.
Everything is shown in the case, not the reasoning around the rasp.
Nice looking tools! I was watching a documentary featuring Japanese carpenters who use hand tools and files to build Buddhist temples. And the crazy part is, these places built rely on joints, dovetails, dowels, etc. The most amazing thing is, no nails, screws, bolts, no fasteners used at all. And these wooden structures have lasted for hundreds of years to this very day.
So Ben, in your expert opinion, what would be a basic kit for the Iwasaki Carving Files?
Great video and info, thanks.
I also own tho of the medium Iwasaki files, they also took me a bit of getting used to, they don't work like our usual rasps. I love the half round one, I'm gonna order two small ones (with the red handle). These files cause more tear-out than normal rasps though, they need a more careful use.
These seem similar to floats, which were often used by wooden plane makers and equally difficult to describe (it's kind of a plane-rasp thing. Sort of.) I'd love to use floats (especially because they can be resharpened), but they're few and far between and Lie-Nielsen's run about $75 _each_ (I don't want to use them _that_ bad!) I'm assuming these can't be resharpened, but for the price they look tempting to try out!
+catdumpling I think iwasaki actually make plane floats too.. I'll see if I can get a hold of some. I want to play with them as much as you do!
Hi, the plane floats are suitable for flat areas, but they'd be very rough on curved areas. Plane floats also will created a chattered surface (not like a vibration type chatter, but they will make small troughs, the surface isn't perfectly clean.
A better choice for flat areas and finish is a nicholson super shear.
For plane handles, I generally use a cheaper coarse rasp (hand stitched, but made somewhere in the second or third world, followed by a coarse double cut file and then either a scraper or a single cut file. I've never favored expensive rasps for fine work on handles, except where you need the shape of a bent sawmaker's rasp or something to avoid interference.
Ben, I am working on my first build with a swamp ash body and will be grain filling black
to accent the grain, dyeing multi-shades of green, and finishing with CG
Finishing Oil & Renaissance wax as per your Bari-Tele series. I
have lots of abrasives on hand (3M & Mirka Abranet, wire wool) and
wanted your input as to what grits I should use before/after grain
filling, and before/during/after applications of your finishing oil.
Thanks very kindly. Cheers, Matt B
They look to be incredible tools. Can I ask do you use any kind of profile gauge when working on a neck like that, or is it just hand eye coordination.
Loved the video as usual.
Regards Phil Hale aka Philyaboots Building CBGs.
I have about 5 Iwasaki files. although some can come with that black handle. I MUCH prefer to get the tanged ones and put my own screw-on Lutz handle. They come in Medium, fine and Extra-fine and can be pretty aggressive.
oh boy, I just got my hands on those...
and..my god, they are just superb. They leave a nice finish and everyone should have those.
Money well spent
Very nice files but Ben looks like he could use a dresser on set.
It seems great, look like aluminium files, I'd like to try one of these !
To me, even the fine rasps always leave scratches, I use them only to remove a lot of material. I've got a big rough Liogier (Very similar to Auriou) that is beyond effective for that. After that, finer rasps, western swiss files (vallorbe) then scrapers.
I think these Iwasaki could replace both fine rasping/filing step ^^
Therefore I wonder how good/bad they clog, and how long they last !
When you placed the workpiece in the vise, those rasps started to actually work well. Maybe you need two hands on them for best control.
+Ian Clarke they took me by surprise, it really is like holding a few hundred tiny planes rather than a file or rasp and took some getting used to but I am in love!
Just looked up Auriou Rasps & Rifflers at Lee Valley, here in Canada. WOW!!!! pricey, oh yea.
FWIW a 200mm flat fine Auriou rasp goes for around £80 in France.
As soon as you expressed your in love with the hand planes I gave a like lol
you are a man with impeccable taste I see, thank you for watching! B
If you are going through his videos you'll have a lot of videos to like! 😉
i would love to check out one of your guitars
hey Ben, is there a particular reason for not using scarf joints on your necks?
he's said in other videos the reason behind not using them is because theyre more likely to break. on the solid necks he's built, he claimed he could stand on one and the headstock didn't snap, however with the scarf joints they did. I'm pretty sure it was also a multi laminate neck he made and was talking about, but that the main reason behind it I believe
I've watched this video and bought iwasaki files, because that was one of fastest opotions... though curved file is ok, the straight one is awfull. It leaves groves and you probably won't carve the whole guitar neck joint using it. To my expirience, the best tool for this job is heavy harsh 300m no. 1 metal file
I don't know if you deal with this but I'll ask anyway. If you have a pickup that is not working and it is soldered properly with no visible broken wires what is the reason it wouldn't be working? Thanks.
your magnet might be upside down
there are a few ways to check with a multimeter it may not even be the pickup it might be a jacks bad best of luck
If they make a set that's cut for metal working I need to get me some. Who am I kidding? I just need to get me some.
Looks like a half round (hollow) laminate file pattern. Yeah, that will eat wood alive and leave a smooth finish.
Does he actually ever finish a sentence that he starts?!
Sometimes I find it very hard to finish things I
Dude as much as i appreciate the videos and love the guitars you build i must tell you that the technique you employ here doesn't enable you to get the best from that file.
40 years?! you look 40!
Ummmm,,..... 14 years he said.
You seem to be somewhere else in this video.
the pauses are painful
What a sense of entitlement you have! How much did you PAY for this lesson? The man is GIVING you his insight FOR FREE. Maybe say, “thank you” and sod off.