Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Kirkman's Academy" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for simple explanations for hard to grasp subjects such as physics, maths and chemistry etc. Here is the link: www.youtube.com/@kirkmansacademy/videos . Thank you so much for looking, and if these topics interest you then I hope to see you the there. Many thanks indeed. Craig 😊👍
A touching story and dedication in the description and a fine video to show importance of care when dealing with parts.. On a ship there is plenty of dirt and grit.. Yet we must maintain parts clean before installing, thank you for showing me that in this video. Cheers and success
Never use oil or other lubricants on the seal faces,stay away with your fingers of the faces and only clean with alcohol.27 years experience with all kinds of pumps,believe me.
What happens when the initially applied oil dries up? I have also heard of issues with oil and prolonged non-use and sticking..My sealing medium is glycol, I am currently leaking more drops that my companies previously assemblies. I feel that oil would help seal better, but my question is if I am leaking without initial oil application, is it wise to coat with oil initially for a possible solution? So overall you are not recommending it? What are the down sides and can you be more specific for not using it?
Could you tell me what's is best practice to assemble mechanical seal in pump? Need to be hit to get proper seat or what else other options.pls suggest
Never start a pump with new seals completely dryed out... as that results in damage the 1st sec you let it run. A tiny drop of oil is just to prevent that as it will be gone after 10min of operation. At least the rubber parts did not started dry that way, as rubber isnt designed to seal dry!
For those who said ( not to put oil on the seal face) ....why do not we consider this a new good practice for installing the mechanical seal unless you gentlemen have tried it & the installation was failed.
I do understand that there are conflicting views on whether or not oil should be applied to the mechanical seal before assembly as shown on the video. All I can say is that over the years I have fitted them both with and without oil usage in this way, and I can honestly say that I have had less water leakage, over all, when I have used oil. In fact, oil usage was so successful in our pump rebuilds, that the company I worked for made it policy to use oil in this way. I hope that this helps explains why I included this information in this video. I hope that it works well for you if you decide to use it. Its totally your choice. Many thanks
Hello, I have a Burks CT Pump in use as feedwater pump to an industrial boiler in a Dry Cleaner. The pump has been leaking for months but we've been running it that way. I finally have some time to pull it out and put in new seals, (my first time for this job) but a mechanic that installs and rebuilds dry cleaning machines tells me it's a waste of time, you should just buy a new pump because changing the seals the pump will leak again in 2-3 months. Is there any truth to this, seems like if you install it properly, pay attention to the handling, etc. it should work as good as the original. Any feedback you can provide would be very helpful. Thank you.
What happens when the initially applied oil dries up? I have also heard of issues with oil and prolonged non-use and sticking..My sealing medium is glycol, I am currently leaking more drops that my companies previously assemblies. I feel that oil would help seal better, but my question is if I am leaking without initial oil application, is it wise to coat with oil initially for a possible solution?
What could cause 115oC hot water circulating pumps to fail at the seals almost within every 6 months? We have 3 pumps (1 is a smaller standby apex pump). We never seem to have all 3 in service at any given time as there is always one that has totally failed. We have had a complete new pumpset replacements fitted as a result of ongoing issues in october last year, now even the new pumps are both offline awaiting new seals. In the last year, we have had 2 engineering companies refurb the pumps, but will go again within a few months. The system has no glycol (due to multiple leaks in the large system) but is topped up with DI water, not town water - so no rust, we have had a recent water sample taken which has confirmed this. Both pumps are sat on the bench and we are going to tackle the seals by us this time as the engineering firms have not been helpfull regarding warrenties etc, fingered cross it fits ok as I am an electrician by trade lol. The pumps when running dont seem to be cavitating or trapping air, and the DP seems ok on the gauges. Any ideas or have I missed anything? Cheers
Describe the type of pump and the situation in which it is installed. 1) is the pump drawing from a closed pipe, a tank, an expansion tank, etc? 2) If it's drawing from a tank, how high above the tank is the inlet of the pump? 3) if it's drawing from a tank, how far below the waterline is the inlet situated? Basically, if a pump's inlet isn't sufficiently close to the water supply and the inlet isn't sufficiently submerged, some air WILL enter the pump and cause cavitation. The cavitation may be too slight to hear, but it could be enough to shorten the life of the seals and even the pump. If you need more help, describe the situation with just a bit more detail.
@@pjamajones8304 right that is carbon. But there is rubber around the back side of the white ceramic ring, where it seats in the housing and there is also black rubber on the back side of the carbon ring
If that's then case then i have been fitting these seals wrong for many years!! Believe me, I have assembled more of these seals than i can remember, followed by hours of extensive test running following the machines (Water Pumps) assembly. These assembled machines then run for years when out on hire. All is proven and tested and with top results. I have had no issues assembling them this way. Applying a film of oil helps the faces to maintain a seal, and so far I have never had one fail. I understand your point in which the two faces are specially machined to run along each other and therefore should need no addition of lubricant, so its down to the engineer as to his or her preference. But myself and the company I work for have found, over many years of operation in this specific industry, that this helps bed in the sealing effect of the Mechanical seal. Thanks
RayMan...you might be thinking about PTFE seals ..I think they're recommended to be dry on initial start up...At least the rear mains on a lot of automotive applications with PTFE rear main seals this is how I do it....
RepairSpecialist....Been following your videos closely...Very nicely done...As a side thought I would like to suggest possibly a video on reed.. valves and also if your familiar with them....rotary valves .. I had a Kawasaki two stroke motorcycle in the early 70s that used rotary valves..Also governors on two stroke engines...Again,very nicely done....thank you...
Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Kirkman's Academy" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for simple explanations for hard to grasp subjects such as physics, maths and chemistry etc. Here is the link: www.youtube.com/@kirkmansacademy/videos . Thank you so much for looking, and if these topics interest you then I hope to see you the there. Many thanks indeed. Craig 😊👍
A touching story and dedication in the description and a fine video to show importance of care when dealing with parts.. On a ship there is plenty of dirt and grit.. Yet we must maintain parts clean before installing, thank you for showing me that in this video. Cheers and success
hehe is funny how I keep finding your comments on this types of videos, Rafa.
Success and nothing else, Seafarer.
Never use oil or other lubricants on the seal faces,stay away with your fingers of the faces and only clean with alcohol.27 years experience with all kinds of pumps,believe me.
What happens when the initially applied oil dries up? I have also heard of issues with oil and prolonged non-use and sticking..My sealing medium is glycol, I am currently leaking more drops that my companies previously assemblies. I feel that oil would help seal better, but my question is if I am leaking without initial oil application, is it wise to coat with oil initially for a possible solution? So overall you are not recommending it? What are the down sides and can you be more specific for not using it?
Could you tell me what's is best practice to assemble mechanical seal in pump? Need to be hit to get proper seat or what else other options.pls suggest
Never start a pump with new seals completely dryed out... as that results in damage the 1st sec you let it run.
A tiny drop of oil is just to prevent that as it will be gone after 10min of operation.
At least the rubber parts did not started dry that way, as rubber isnt designed to seal dry!
For those who said ( not to put oil on the seal face) ....why do not we consider this a new good practice for installing the mechanical seal unless you gentlemen have tried it & the installation was failed.
I do understand that there are conflicting views on whether or not oil should be applied to the mechanical seal before assembly as shown on the video. All I can say is that over the years I have fitted them both with and without oil usage in this way, and I can honestly say that I have had less water leakage, over all, when I have used oil. In fact, oil usage was so successful in our pump rebuilds, that the company I worked for made it policy to use oil in this way. I hope that this helps explains why I included this information in this video. I hope that it works well for you if you decide to use it. Its totally your choice. Many thanks
TheRepairSpecialist been assembling pumps for years now, usually wipe away any P80 silicone, worth a try
I use the eye glass wipes that come in the disposable packets to clean off any debris.
Hello, I have a Burks CT Pump in use as feedwater pump to an industrial boiler in a Dry Cleaner. The pump has been leaking for months but we've been running it that way. I finally have some time to pull it out and put in new seals, (my first time for this job) but a mechanic that installs and rebuilds dry cleaning machines tells me it's a waste of time, you should just buy a new pump because changing the seals the pump will leak again in 2-3 months. Is there any truth to this, seems like if you install it properly, pay attention to the handling, etc. it should work as good as the original. Any feedback you can provide would be very helpful. Thank you.
What happens when the initially applied oil dries up? I have also heard of issues with oil and prolonged non-use and sticking..My sealing medium is glycol, I am currently leaking more drops that my companies previously assemblies. I feel that oil would help seal better, but my question is if I am leaking without initial oil application, is it wise to coat with oil initially for a possible solution?
Oil shouldn't be put on mating surfaces, especially if there is a chance it may contaminate product.
Thank you for this video I want your opinion in this pump
What could cause 115oC hot water circulating pumps to fail at the seals almost within every 6 months?
We have 3 pumps (1 is a smaller standby apex pump).
We never seem to have all 3 in service at any given time as there is always one that has totally failed.
We have had a complete new pumpset replacements fitted as a result of ongoing issues in october last year, now even the new pumps are both offline awaiting new seals.
In the last year, we have had 2 engineering companies refurb the pumps, but will go again within a few months.
The system has no glycol (due to multiple leaks in the large system) but is topped up with DI water, not town water - so no rust, we have had a recent water sample taken which has confirmed this.
Both pumps are sat on the bench and we are going to tackle the seals by us this time as the engineering firms have not been helpfull regarding warrenties etc, fingered cross it fits ok as I am an electrician by trade lol.
The pumps when running dont seem to be cavitating or trapping air, and the DP seems ok on the gauges.
Any ideas or have I missed anything? Cheers
Describe the type of pump and the situation in which it is installed. 1) is the pump drawing from a closed pipe, a tank, an expansion tank, etc? 2) If it's drawing from a tank, how high above the tank is the inlet of the pump? 3) if it's drawing from a tank, how far below the waterline is the inlet situated? Basically, if a pump's inlet isn't sufficiently close to the water supply and the inlet isn't sufficiently submerged, some air WILL enter the pump and cause cavitation. The cavitation may be too slight to hear, but it could be enough to shorten the life of the seals and even the pump. If you need more help, describe the situation with just a bit more detail.
What about the oil coming in contact with the rubber in the seal? This breaks down the rubber, no?
Reed Sweeney
I had the same thought... Surely too much will get to the rubber and deteriorate it.
It may look like black rubber but it is actually carbon.
@@pjamajones8304 right that is carbon. But there is rubber around the back side of the white ceramic ring, where it seats in the housing and there is also black rubber on the back side of the carbon ring
He fu2ed up the seal by putting oil on that.
TheRepairSpecialist
what oil did you use for the seals???, thanks.
Coconut oil
메카리씰 은 용수철 + 밀봉
안 용수철 밖 밀봉
밀봉 안밖 축 및 케이스 잘 들어가게 구리스
밀봉 좌우 막대 이용 밀어냄
메카리씰 규격 동일 따라서 자리 동일?
메카리씰 용수철 없이 밀봉 만 삽입
안밖 윤활 (바름 과 안 바름)차이
안 바름 넣어면서 꼬여 틈 발생 누세
what kind of degreaser did you say to use?
M M, I used a brake cleaning degreaser. Thanks
펌프 안 액체 안 나오게 밀봉
흰 부분 안쪽 들어 갑니까
Dali se može na hrvatskom jeziku čuti Šta govori
I don't think u supposed to put any oil on mechanical seals this defeats the purpose
If that's then case then i have been fitting these seals wrong for many years!! Believe me, I have assembled more of these seals than i can remember, followed by hours of extensive test running following the machines (Water Pumps) assembly. These assembled machines then run for years when out on hire. All is proven and tested and with top results. I have had no issues assembling them this way. Applying a film of oil helps the faces to maintain a seal, and so far I have never had one fail. I understand your point in which the two faces are specially machined to run along each other and therefore should need no addition of lubricant, so its down to the engineer as to his or her preference. But myself and the company I work for have found, over many years of operation in this specific industry, that this helps bed in the sealing effect of the Mechanical seal. Thanks
RayMan...you might be thinking about PTFE seals ..I think they're recommended to be dry on initial start up...At least the rear mains on a lot of automotive applications with PTFE rear main seals this is how I do it....
RepairSpecialist....Been following your videos closely...Very nicely done...As a side thought I would like to suggest possibly a video on reed.. valves and also if your familiar with them....rotary valves .. I had a Kawasaki two stroke motorcycle in the early 70s that used rotary valves..Also governors on two stroke engines...Again,very nicely done....thank you...
Very clear.