Joe, I think you will possibly have the best build of this model kit. I don't think that most builders put as much thought into the process. I having been a machinist and owning a shop for for fifty plus years, give you a thumbs up on the build! JIM
You are under the microscope when it comes to viewer's. If it looks good, it's probably to spec!!! You are giving away years of experience to many that I'm sure appreciate it. Good job. Nice to see you are having fun with this project.
My viewers don't miss a thing. Thats good. I am having fun with this. I built a lot of plastic models as a kid, but this thing is turning into an heirloom.
Thanks again Joe. I learn some new method for holding a part or a machinging operation on every vodeo you release. I appreciate your time and tallents you share.
Hi Joe, I agree with pressure turning when possible, it sounds like you're as skeptical as I was about using super glue until I had the need to give a try. It pays to use the medium viscosity glue and use the tailstock to apply pressure while it dries, then make light cuts for light tool pressure and to help keep the part cool, super sharp tooling is required IMHO. Mist coolant could help as well. Of course the glue method is the better way only if you have to do face cuts where a tailstock support would be in the way. Give it a try for the heck of it, you may like the results. As always, I enjoy your approach and videos. Joe
Can't understand why with 324 views only 40 comments. Especially when No Crazy Glue Was Harmed. Should have listened to Daddy - become a machinist he said, went Marine Corps instead. Glad I chose Marine Corps though. Believe I could not have been like this man Joe Piecznski. The math would have blown my brain to pieces. Great job Sir. Hanging in for the total build.
Thanks for another informative and entertaining video Joe. So much technique here that it’s hard to say what’s most valuable to me. Love the way you use the tail stock quill to align the work piece in the chuck. This project has been a great learning experience. I’m glad to hear that you are considering producing the fixture plate and would like to see you offer the toe clamps as well. I’d certainly be proud to own a set and it would be a great way to support your channel. You should stamp them with a likeness of Ruger as your trademark. Thanks again for what you are doing.
A wise man once told me that " nobody rides for free". Very true, indeed. In light of that, my opinion is that the quality of content and enjoyment of watching Joe Pie's craft is well worth putting up with the advertisements. + Thanks for taking the time to video and share.+
Joe, You have created a database for all of us to refer to when we get to that point on our models. In addition to the Stuart, PM and any of the models sold today, we have a professional, how to do it right reference. Thank you.
You’re not the only one, it’s after 1:00am here in the UK but there was no way I was going to sleep without watching this first (I always check for new Joe Pie videos before going to sleep 😂)
I watch your videos because of the attention to detail you show as I am sure many other viewers do. I hope that in your day job you have found customers that appreciate , are able and willing to pay for that service. Love your work
With the elimination of elective surgical procedures, its been a tough year. My customers are great, but their hands are tied too. This little model came at the right time for the workload and my sanity. Thanks for your comment.
Thank you for another excellent video. I have tried the superglue thing with very limited success. Pressure turning, way better. Never thought to add a sacrificial extension piece on the live center. hoping to get the casting kit this week.
@@joepie221 next time you're at the bench showing the finished parts, could you show one of the 'special live centers'? im always running out of space and don't have a long skinny live center so i have to use a long thin tools, yuck.
Superglue can also cause You problems if used on a daily basis in badly ventilated places. I have no allergies but acquired a bad reaction to Tac Pac superglue using it in small prototypes assembled under the microscope. Small distance between nose and workpiece. Especially when the stuff is heated by a soldering iron or heated for release something really nasty comes off. For most uses I switched to a single component heat cure epoxy instead. Also installed a fume cupboard in the shop to avoid future problems. Have used double sided tape for turning very thin parts such as metallic gaskets.
That little fixture plate and mini clamps are great tools to have. I've modeled up the clamps based on your design and I'm in the process of machining out a half dozen of them....thanks Joe.
i have never used super glue either but i would in a situation where i felt comfortable and no other option was readily available. i thought it might be worth mentioning that acetone can be used to release the glue afterward. i see a lot of people using heat and you don't have to. works on red Loctite also.
I enjoy watching so many different people making this engine, I get exposed to different ways of doing a job based on the makers idea of the problems they may have, or to suit the tools they have. Very educational!
Pick the approach that best suits your machine, budget, time constraints and experience. Also pick a teacher with experience in the field they represent.
The small tick a carbide end mill makes when you chip a corner off is quite the inspiration to not do it again. I have several methods based on available part or fixture contact area.
Good video and advice Joe. I was watching with interest when you plunged the end mill for you to make a comment about the slug produced, you did not dissappoint. I blew a cutter years ago for the same reason you warned about, never again! John, Australia. PS: Large cutter on power feed.
That whine a machine makes just before something explodes is like static electricity. Your scalp tingles and the hair on your arms stands straight up when you hear it.
Joe thank you for going easy on the blond lady r.e. the use of super glue. Like you I also have never used glue to hold parts to my lathe but there are many ways to get to the finish line.
Its big in the clock and watch repair industry, but my mind thinks industrial and glue would never fly on a production fixture or process. If used correctly and at the right time, I'm sure its fine, but shouldn't be represented as the only option.
* TIP * Hardinge Inc. sells small packets of plastic shims in various thicknesses. Use them for shims and to gauge tool distances from work without fear of chipping or dulling the tool and or marking the work. JIM
Another great video and excellent shop technique advice (as so many have already said!), thank you! Whenever I hear Joe Pie's voice in high speed, I think of him complaining about suffering with all that inferior equipment, LOLOL!! So envious of you guys with your lathe shops; always wishing to get to play in a shop some day. Thanks again! #VicariousLiving #ShopTech
WOOHOO. Today was too normal, so with no silver to pour I looked on the Tube and there you are. Perfect ! Aside from the piston and cylinder I think I can still do this old school with a set of my beloved files and a bench top drill press and an analog vernier (very near, lol). Now I am going to try and back up what I have said and order one of these kits and video my progress as you have done here teach. I may be getting old but I think I still have what it takes eh. Just to prove how things were really done when my grandpa was a steam mechanic in Saskatoon Saskatchewan Canada.in the late 40's through the 50's and early 60's. His tool cart was 3 adjustable wrenches and 3 various hammers. A day with him was a day to remember for sure. Wow, that just moistened my eyes. Damn I sure miss that old man. Doing this to the tenth shows exactly how our world was created. From casting to file to create the first rough lathe to where we are now. Amazing story for sure eh. With any luck it will run but I am sure it will leak and puff a bunch more than the beauty you have created here my friend. No DRO no fancy analoge machining just good old fashioned make it work eh. It has worked before so why not now eh.. This is some sweet machining from you my friend. This whole build is a thing of beauty to cion your words. You can take that to the bank eh, LOL. Loved the post my friend. Onward eh ! Take care and stay safe eh !
@@joepie221 Thanks a bunch Joe for replying to my comments all the time as I know how long it takes to read and reply to hundreds of comments. I ordered the kit this morning and hope to see it in a couple weeks. Time to visit my files, Sharpen them if needed and order more treatment wax I get from Rio Grande. It is called "Burlife" It really works well. Silver will plug up a file or bur in moments and it extends the life of my saw blades 10x and more. I used to break a lot of the fine blades where now I am wearing them out. See you next post my friend.
That's a deceptive piece when it comes to set-ups... great to watch your approach Joe. Nice - it's a thing of beauty :) Very useful tip re the small disk that comes out the bottom of the end mill plunge cut hole!
Hi Joe, the little piece of material often occurs in woodwork when using Forstener drill bits. Can be dammed annoying when working in plywood and a layer detaches itself and you suddenly have a "wooden washer" and no cutting progress. Keep up the videos. Thoroughly enjoy your style and presentation. RonW Canada.
Hey Joe- I really enjoy starting my day by watching some of your videos. Nice job as usual and I knew someone would ask about the bolt hole pattern . Your work is inspiring . thanks !
Work done by a master. At the time 14:35 You press the objekt between the tailstock and the chuck. I assume the stock part in the chuck has a diameter larger then the hole/spindle of the chuck. Once using the tail stock to align and press a die into a turned rod of steel the rod was pushed back into the spindle. The chuck was tightened as hard as I could. My mistake was not enough of leading taper on the rod. Of course, using a collet chuck had provided more clamping force to the rod. Your comment to using a 3 jaw chuck and press using the tailstock...
I have a relieved receiver for just that reason. It dead ends against the jaw faces and can't slide. For lighter pressure jobs like this one, the chuck has plenty of grip on a straight piece.
Really awesome! It is such a pleasure to watch you work and to see what you create. I only wish I had been bitten by this hobby / line of work about fifty or fifty-five years ago, but I do practice at it. Thanks for the inspiration!
Thank you very much! I got the bug on day one. I was amazed at how a machine could just chew up a piece of steel. My career has been very diverse and unique.
29:47 - both of us watching this went “OOHH OK!” at the exact same time... lol... took a minute to realize you were talking about basically facing the frame casting if it’s proud of the inboard head and bumping into the cylinder housing before it contacts said inboard head.
I was confused about the cylinder cap having a hole. Then I realised where it went and I was thinking what a pointless part it was, as the cylinder could go direct to the base casting. But, as a thing that acts like a spigot between the two it is a work of genius :o) Hats off to the original designer, because that simple disk means it 100% has to all line up no matter what the bolt holes are like ^-^
@@joepie221 It is something I fought a lot with as a design engineer. Sometimes you just need a part so loose in dimensions that it can bridge any two critical bits. I got so fed up of fabricated fan cowls touching the blades that I drew in a bolt-in motor plate that could sort any error :o)
Joe you might want to consider using O rings with the proper OD and ID for the packing glands. Many model engineers use the brick red ones for high heat and oil resistance and you will need proper steam oil for the steam chest and piston a good lubricant will be fine for the oil cups and other moving parts. Keith Appleton has a great video on valve timing. Having the steam or air enter the cylinder just before top dead center is best. This will probably be the finest running PM Research engine ever made ( just an opinion).
Those would be silicon o'rings if I am correct. I have quite a selection here, but I will go with the teflon first just to keep with the print. You can also get PTFE (teflon) o'rings. That may be the way to go. Super slippery.
I agree with you about crazy glue , I’ve made two clocks like Chris but not once did I feel the need to use glue. Nice bit of work tonight joe and it looks like you’ve nearly finished this project.
I'm learning a lot about setups, and have been able to apply some of it in my project, so thanks! It's funny listening to you talk about how small everything is. In this hobby this is all normal sized :) Roughly 1.6 - 3.5mm threads are used everywhere all day long and many of my parts are made from 1 - 1.6mm brass or steel. An M5 or M6 thread is huge. It must be annoying having to try and pre-empt a flood of comments about how you've done it wrong. It's a toy steam engine, meant to be made by 'the rest of us' who have little idea what we're doing. The thing would probably run if it was made 10x worse than you're doing it. It was interesting that you said the print shows the packing faces to be flat. I wonder if the designer just decided it was easier to draw that way or whether they really meant it. I think from the ones I did for my loco, there wouldn't have been a lot of material left under them if I'd used a drill - the point would have gone some way towards breaking through once the required depth was reached.
The blue dot in your channel is like see the fedex truck in front of your door! Btw the piece was round enough to all of us but aussies!! ....sorry I can’t resist.
Maybe he should have taken a photocopy of it, performed a full inspection and made a video disputing the quality of the part. Nah, only a dickhead would do that.
Turned out great. One suggestion would be to turn a shoulder on your sacrificial stock to allow a thickness check without pulling the part. Just an idea.
@@joepie221 On that little fixture plate you use is it possible to fit a dowel pin or reference ball so that you can pick the entire plate up and move it between machines or simply re-orient it and then use the pin to re-reference? So long as you don't take the part off you should be able to very accurately keep the reference. For parts like the base plate that are odd shapes that you need to keep moving - shouldn't that work?
Great job again. I have to remake this part, since the first one I made warped all over the place. Still haven't figured that out. But anyway, I like this sequence a lot. Not sure my lathe is rigid enough for pressure turning - may take your advice of putting a pin in the middle of the stainless rod to more accurately locate the part. Don't know - but as always, lots to learn from and consider. Thank you. Also - have never liked the idea of using adhesives to hold parts for machining. Seems like if you haven't figured out how to clamp a part - then you're not ready to cut it.
I look at all the parts I hold as if I have to develop a process to run 100 of them. Using glue is fine for extremely light and delicate parts if you are only going to do one or two, but its never been my first consideration.
I use cigarette papers (what the self rollies use) they are just over .001 inch thick, to get cutters close to the job, rather than shimstock, I don't blow cutter edges that way! I like your way of doing things, just adds another dimension to doing these jobs. All good.
Thanks for your continued positive comments. On my CNC, I use a .375 pin. I get the cutter close and come up with the tool until the pin rolls under, then fine adjustment is easy from there. I don't chip tools any more.
In the old days we used cigarette paper as a feeler gage.(we Dutch roll them ourselves) When the paper got stuck under the mill you where 0.02 mm (0.001") off. In those days we always needed 2 packages of rolling paper with our pouch of tobacco. It was always good to have some smokers on the shop floor. Luckily times have changed and i quit the habit a loooong time ago. (But i still use the paper)
@@joepie221 I enjoy it a lot. Its been one of the brighter points this year. I ordered a lathe last week -> www.machineryhouse.com.au/L555D Chinese made lots of equipment. Buy the time I added up all the equipment and added it to the TU-3008G I was also considering it was about $500 extra and just so much more. Still undecided on a mill. Considering this if things go well. -> www.machineryhouse.com.au/M577
Hi Joe, Well I have been keeping up since episode 1... Really now looking forward to the assembly and first run finale! I have watched other TH-camrs try to build this kit..... YOU WIN!!!
I think there is a big difference between Joe's workshop and knowledge and experience as a professional machinist and a small hobbiest setup with evidently little experience but a big heart. Don't really see it as a competition but I agree with your sentiment that Joe is on the money.
I make these videos for all levels of skill. I am sure there are better ways coming from craftsman with more steam engine experience, but I do these to show safe, reliable and efficient shop practices born of a lifetime of experience. I value my viewers and take their desire to learn good practices very seriously.
I'm really enjoying this video series!!! And im not at all a model engine guy.. You just have some great take aways and technics with all these parts.. I will be sad to see this come to an end...
Joe, Always love watching the stuff you present. Always good content and I love your geometry classes. :) I'd like to suggest shutting off the auto-focus on your camera for fixed machining shots. It is hard to watch when the camera keeps going in and out of focus constantly. Thanks for the great content.
Hey Joe! Another great video. I've had the same problem from time to time with the little "disc" in the bottom of the hole. The only thing I can come up with is because the bottom of an end mill is tapered a bit for relief the outside of that cutter begins to cut before the center does. Am I correct on assuming this sir? Just curious and that's the only thing I can come up with. Keep up the great work Joe!
Great video as usual. Why are people calling you out for the bottom of the gland packing not being a drill point or taper. I've seen all variations of square bottoms, tapered followers and the like, used in valves for steam systems. The packing rope just needs to be installed correctly with the right amount of compression. Getting that right is critical. The shape of the hole it sits in doesn't matter as square faces will still compress the rope against the shaft and body.
The way I see it, is displacement is displacement. If 2 surfaces are coming together, the difference in packing pressure over a size that small will be minimal. Flat faces are fine.
Gidday Joe, Loving this build series so far, keep up the great work. You are liken to a magician with lots of neat work holding tricks up your sleeve. Did you make the tooling plate and toe clamps or is this a commercially available item?
Could you please explain a little more about the cone shaped device you installed at 14:41 between the live center and the work? I would appreciate any help.
Pressure turning with a live center is not unusual. But when doing it, you should use something that keeps the point from being the only thing in contact with your work. Points usually dig in after a short while and then the part slips. The little funnel I used had a cylindrical flat faced tip to aid in the pressure. these are easily made. Might be a good video topic.
Joe, love watching your videos. (I grew up in Morristown, not far from Randolph). I was really hoping you were going to show how you measured and laid out the 6 holes in this piece. Any videos showing that process? Thank you again!
Hi Joe Never tried pressure turning but have to agree about glue.Every time i have used it it has failed and i have had to either redo or find another way.Pressure turning here we come
One day, I would love to see how you made that pressure turning tool....I am guessing you have a few tricks on how you do that. And, as always a brilliant piece of machining and content.
Use a big centerdrill on a piece of aluminum. Set your compound to 30 degrees and turn a funnel leaving the center drilled area alone. The turn a small diameter at the neck of the funnel and part it off. Watch my mini cosmo on ice video. Same technique.
I absolutely love the pressure turn I showed an apprentice at work that and he was shocked and I learned it from a past video of yours.. could you ever have the part stall out using that technic?
You sure can. Adequate pressure and a good contact drive surface are important. PSA sanding discs work well for more aggressive parts, but beware of the mild marks it may leave on your part.
Joe, i was recording in my shop, breaker failed! some of my best work,, too!! i hope electrician fixes it tomorrow!!! im limited to recoprding in comp room till its fixed. im running out of stuff to record " whats inside of..." videos with. poppy's workshop says HI
Ya wow you should do model kits more often. Those are realy cool, hey and also a handy way of making those little boring bars is just grind a taper on the end of an old carbide reamer shank the same as an insert pocket and braze er' on grind to sexy the iscar little ifanger style taper starts off .250 bore's like .215 has a 45 at the end for starting reamers thats a good one to have
Hi Joe, another good explanation, I also wonder about the wisdom of glue, I'd be worried about heat build up and the glue failing!! pressure holding has to be safer and less prone to inaccuracy due to movement. Question.. you quite rightly identify the potential for the cylinder fouling the base casting, if it does need some extra clearance, and to keep it all looking 'Well Engineered' would you re jig the base and clean up the casting with a boring head/fly cutter to cut a flat the dia of the cylinder OD, offset from the previously machined surface so it is nice and concentric with the other circular features?
The area in question is very small and only gets close to a corner of the steam box. An extremely small cut would suffice. If you are good with a file, that would be fine as the area is out of sight at assembly.
Oil cups Those oil cups i am sure would be fine for a light test run but those oil drip reservoir type seem like the way to really set off a model like every one else has and one that someone builds to their own specs Wouldnt The stock cups would just dump the oil where as those drip type helps manage the amount of drip
HI Joe, liked your way of holding the part, I soft soldered my parts to a brass bar, your way is better and quicker. Don't you need threads for the packing nut? Rich
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Joe, I think you will possibly have the best build of this model kit. I don't think that most builders put as much thought into the process. I having been a machinist and owning a shop for for fifty plus years, give you a thumbs up on the build!
JIM
Thanks. I'll take that as a solid compliment.
“I’m gonna do it without krazy glue” - shots fired!
I have no idea what you are talking about. :)
@@joepie221 I was thinking fixture solder, but crazy glue would wire brush off :o)
@@joepie221 😂🤣😂🤣😏
You are under the microscope when it comes to viewer's. If it looks good, it's probably to spec!!! You are giving away years of experience to many that I'm sure appreciate it. Good job. Nice to see you are having fun with this project.
My viewers don't miss a thing. Thats good. I am having fun with this. I built a lot of plastic models as a kid, but this thing is turning into an heirloom.
Every video is like a five course meal of learning, I love it!
In the spirit of the year, I'd like to give you more than one upvote.
Thanks again Joe. I learn some new method for holding a part or a machinging operation on every vodeo you release. I appreciate your time and tallents you share.
Your videos brighten my day Joe, many thanks
I'm having so much fun watching each of the components come to life and following along with the whole build. Excellent videos, great TV
Awesome, thank you!
Hi Joe,
I agree with pressure turning when possible, it sounds like you're as skeptical as I was about using super glue until I had the need to give a try.
It pays to use the medium viscosity glue and use the tailstock to apply pressure while it dries, then make light cuts for light tool pressure and to help keep the part cool, super sharp tooling is required IMHO.
Mist coolant could help as well.
Of course the glue method is the better way only if you have to do face cuts where a tailstock support would be in the way.
Give it a try for the heck of it, you may like the results.
As always, I enjoy your approach and videos.
Joe
Can't understand why with 324 views only 40 comments. Especially when No Crazy Glue Was Harmed.
Should have listened to Daddy - become a machinist he said, went Marine Corps instead. Glad I chose Marine Corps though. Believe I could not have been like this man Joe Piecznski. The math would have blown my brain to pieces. Great job Sir. Hanging in for the total build.
Thanks for another informative and entertaining video Joe. So much technique here that it’s hard to say what’s most valuable to me. Love the way you use the tail stock quill to align the work piece in the chuck. This project has been a great learning experience.
I’m glad to hear that you are considering producing the fixture plate and would like to see you offer the toe clamps as well. I’d certainly be proud to own a set and it would be a great way to support your channel. You should stamp them with a likeness of Ruger as your trademark. Thanks again for what you are doing.
thanks John. I like the Ruger idea. He was a true friend and I miss him.
A wise man once told me that " nobody rides for free". Very true, indeed. In light of that, my opinion is that the quality of content and enjoyment of watching Joe Pie's craft is well worth putting up with the advertisements. + Thanks for taking the time to video and share.+
Some auto insertion can get a bit much, but thanks for hanging in.
Coming along well. Look forward to the next one.
Joe,
You have created a database for all of us to refer to when we get to that point on our models.
In addition to the Stuart, PM and any of the models sold today, we have a professional, how to do it right reference.
Thank you.
PM research has stated they will ink my channel as a technical reference for this kit. I hope they follow through.
Sincerely hope you will do more models! You have me searching multiple times a day your latest video!
No kidding, I have grown quite invested in this project myself!
You’re not the only one, it’s after 1:00am here in the UK but there was no way I was going to sleep without watching this first (I always check for new Joe Pie videos before going to sleep 😂)
@@nutgone100 same here and as I finish watching and reading a few comments it is 02 49 but sleep is now calling.
I will. The series seems to be well received.
I watch your videos because of the attention to detail you show as I am sure many other viewers do. I hope that in your day job you have found customers that appreciate , are able and willing to pay for that service. Love your work
With the elimination of elective surgical procedures, its been a tough year. My customers are great, but their hands are tied too. This little model came at the right time for the workload and my sanity. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks, Joe. You are getting through these parts like a house on fire! Another great lesson.
It may be completed this week.
Thank you for another excellent video. I have tried the superglue thing with very limited success. Pressure turning, way better. Never thought to add a sacrificial extension piece on the live center. hoping to get the casting kit this week.
I have even made special live centers for certain jobs. Those little extensions can come in very handy.
@@joepie221 next time you're at the bench showing the finished parts, could you show one of the 'special live centers'? im always running out of space and don't have a long skinny live center so i have to use a long thin tools, yuck.
Superglue can also cause You problems if used on a daily basis in badly ventilated places. I have no allergies but acquired a bad reaction to Tac Pac superglue using it in small prototypes assembled under the microscope. Small distance between nose and workpiece. Especially when the stuff is heated by a soldering iron or heated for release something really nasty comes off. For most uses I switched to a single component heat cure epoxy instead. Also installed a fume cupboard in the shop to avoid future problems. Have used double sided tape for turning very thin parts such as metallic gaskets.
That little fixture plate and mini clamps are great tools to have. I've modeled up the clamps based on your design and I'm in the process of machining out a half dozen of them....thanks Joe.
They are very handy.
It's 04:30 here in Wales but I'm watching and learning Joe. Thanks for another masterclass. Regards Gareth
Thanks for such support. I appreciate it.
More JP translations:
*Beautiful Creature:* Spider
*Beautiful Machine:* Motorcycle
*Beautiful Thing:* Pretty much every piece Joe Pie works
Super job Joe. Can't wait to see it run.
i have never used super glue either but i would in a situation where i felt comfortable and no other option was readily available. i thought it might be worth mentioning that acetone can be used to release the glue afterward. i see a lot of people using heat and you don't have to. works on red Loctite also.
I enjoy watching so many different people making this engine, I get exposed to different ways of doing a job based on the makers idea of the problems they may have, or to suit the tools they have. Very educational!
Pick the approach that best suits your machine, budget, time constraints and experience. Also pick a teacher with experience in the field they represent.
Once again, brilliant instruction. Love the use of the feeler gauge with the end mill, have never thought of that and so simple.Thanks Joe
The small tick a carbide end mill makes when you chip a corner off is quite the inspiration to not do it again. I have several methods based on available part or fixture contact area.
Thanks Joe, I needed that, pressure turning is something I have never done. it does look safer than trying to hold it's small end in a collet.
One of my favorite sayings is " When the chip exceeds the grip, the part is going to slip".
Good video and advice Joe. I was watching with interest when you plunged the end mill for you to make a comment about the slug produced, you did not dissappoint. I blew a cutter years ago for the same reason you warned about, never again! John, Australia. PS: Large cutter on power feed.
That whine a machine makes just before something explodes is like static electricity. Your scalp tingles and the hair on your arms stands straight up when you hear it.
Joe thank you for going easy on the blond lady r.e. the use of super glue. Like you I also have never used glue to hold parts to my lathe but there are many ways to get to the finish line.
Its big in the clock and watch repair industry, but my mind thinks industrial and glue would never fly on a production fixture or process. If used correctly and at the right time, I'm sure its fine, but shouldn't be represented as the only option.
Thanks Joe. Another great learning video. Looking great. This will be a great looking engine when done. One to be proud of.
I know I'll enjoy looking at it.
* TIP * Hardinge Inc. sells small packets of plastic shims in various thicknesses. Use them for shims and to gauge tool distances from work without fear of chipping or dulling the tool and or marking the work.
JIM
Another great video and excellent shop technique advice (as so many have already said!), thank you! Whenever I hear Joe Pie's voice in high speed, I think of him complaining about suffering with all that inferior equipment, LOLOL!! So envious of you guys with your lathe shops; always wishing to get to play in a shop some day. Thanks again! #VicariousLiving #ShopTech
WOOHOO. Today was too normal, so with no silver to pour I looked on the Tube and there you are. Perfect ! Aside from the piston and cylinder I think I can still do this old school with a set of my beloved files and a bench top drill press and an analog vernier (very near, lol). Now I am going to try and back up what I have said and order one of these kits and video my progress as you have done here teach. I may be getting old but I think I still have what it takes eh. Just to prove how things were really done when my grandpa was a steam mechanic in Saskatoon Saskatchewan Canada.in the late 40's through the 50's and early 60's. His tool cart was 3 adjustable wrenches and 3 various hammers. A day with him was a day to remember for sure. Wow, that just moistened my eyes. Damn I sure miss that old man. Doing this to the tenth shows exactly how our world was created. From casting to file to create the first rough lathe to where we are now. Amazing story for sure eh. With any luck it will run but I am sure it will leak and puff a bunch more than the beauty you have created here my friend. No DRO no fancy analoge machining just good old fashioned make it work eh. It has worked before so why not now eh.. This is some sweet machining from you my friend. This whole build is a thing of beauty to cion your words. You can take that to the bank eh, LOL. Loved the post my friend. Onward eh ! Take care and stay safe eh !
Hey, anybody can do a great job using great tools, it takes a true craftsman to do it with less. Get creative, take your time and be safe. Good luck.
@@joepie221 Thanks a bunch Joe for replying to my comments all the time as I know how long it takes to read and reply to hundreds of comments. I ordered the kit this morning and hope to see it in a couple weeks. Time to visit my files, Sharpen them if needed and order more treatment wax I get from Rio Grande. It is called "Burlife" It really works well. Silver will plug up a file or bur in moments and it extends the life of my saw blades 10x and more. I used to break a lot of the fine blades where now I am wearing them out. See you next post my friend.
That's a deceptive piece when it comes to set-ups... great to watch your approach Joe. Nice - it's a thing of beauty :)
Very useful tip re the small disk that comes out the bottom of the end mill plunge cut hole!
Sooner or later, you'll encounter excessive tool pressure because of that disc. On steel, it can generate a lot of heat.
Hi Joe, the little piece of material often occurs in woodwork when using Forstener drill bits. Can be dammed annoying when working in plywood and a layer detaches itself and you suddenly have a "wooden washer" and no cutting progress. Keep up the videos. Thoroughly enjoy your style and presentation.
RonW
Canada.
Hey Joe- I really enjoy starting my day by watching some of your videos. Nice job as usual and I knew someone would ask about the bolt hole pattern . Your work is inspiring . thanks !
Love the work small pieces always present more of a challenge but a well thought out plan makes great results
Very true. A little thought up front can go a long way.
I turned a 5 pound aluminum eccentric hub with crazy glue once. That was... Pure terror.
Thanks Joe - very nice work, as usual.
Work done by a master.
At the time 14:35 You press the objekt between the tailstock and the chuck. I assume the stock part in the chuck has a diameter larger then the hole/spindle of the chuck.
Once using the tail stock to align and press a die into a turned rod of steel the rod was pushed back into the spindle. The chuck was tightened as hard as I could. My mistake was not enough of leading taper on the rod. Of course, using a collet chuck had provided more clamping force to the rod.
Your comment to using a 3 jaw chuck and press using the tailstock...
I have a relieved receiver for just that reason. It dead ends against the jaw faces and can't slide. For lighter pressure jobs like this one, the chuck has plenty of grip on a straight piece.
Really awesome! It is such a pleasure to watch you work and to see what you create. I only wish I had been bitten by this hobby / line of work about fifty or fifty-five years ago, but I do practice at it. Thanks for the inspiration!
Thank you very much! I got the bug on day one. I was amazed at how a machine could just chew up a piece of steel. My career has been very diverse and unique.
29:47 - both of us watching this went “OOHH OK!” at the exact same time... lol... took a minute to realize you were talking about basically facing the frame casting if it’s proud of the inboard head and bumping into the cylinder housing before it contacts said inboard head.
Correct. Its not much, but its possible.
I was confused about the cylinder cap having a hole. Then I realised where it went and I was thinking what a pointless part it was, as the cylinder could go direct to the base casting. But, as a thing that acts like a spigot between the two it is a work of genius :o) Hats off to the original designer, because that simple disk means it 100% has to all line up no matter what the bolt holes are like ^-^
It is clever. Some working tolerances would have been nice.
@@joepie221 It is something I fought a lot with as a design engineer. Sometimes you just need a part so loose in dimensions that it can bridge any two critical bits. I got so fed up of fabricated fan cowls touching the blades that I drew in a bolt-in motor plate that could sort any error :o)
A work of art Joe...u make it look so easy. Thank you im not a machinist but love ur vids
Thats quite a compliment coming from a non-machinist. Thank you.
Nice work Joe, I am learning a lot of techniques and tips from this build, thanks and cheers!
I've covered quite a few. So far, so good.
Joe you might want to consider using O rings with the proper OD and ID for the packing glands. Many model engineers use the brick red ones for high heat and oil resistance and you will need proper steam oil for the steam chest and piston a good lubricant will be fine for the oil cups and other moving parts. Keith Appleton has a great video on valve timing. Having the steam or air enter the cylinder just before top dead center is best. This will probably be the finest running PM Research engine ever made ( just an opinion).
Those would be silicon o'rings if I am correct. I have quite a selection here, but I will go with the teflon first just to keep with the print. You can also get PTFE (teflon) o'rings. That may be the way to go. Super slippery.
Great video & techniques Joe, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for sharing! Pressure turning not a bad idea.
I agree with you about crazy glue , I’ve made two clocks like Chris but not once did I feel the need to use glue. Nice bit of work tonight joe and it looks like you’ve nearly finished this project.
I did all the rods yesterday, I'll do the nuts this morning. With the exception of bending the eccentric rod and making a display base, its done.
Awesome job Joe.
I'm learning a lot about setups, and have been able to apply some of it in my project, so thanks!
It's funny listening to you talk about how small everything is. In this hobby this is all normal sized :) Roughly 1.6 - 3.5mm threads are used everywhere all day long and many of my parts are made from 1 - 1.6mm brass or steel. An M5 or M6 thread is huge.
It must be annoying having to try and pre-empt a flood of comments about how you've done it wrong. It's a toy steam engine, meant to be made by 'the rest of us' who have little idea what we're doing. The thing would probably run if it was made 10x worse than you're doing it.
It was interesting that you said the print shows the packing faces to be flat. I wonder if the designer just decided it was easier to draw that way or whether they really meant it. I think from the ones I did for my loco, there wouldn't have been a lot of material left under them if I'd used a drill - the point would have gone some way towards breaking through once the required depth was reached.
Tool height adjustment tip...”thats money”... simple/SMART......ATB
Hi Chuck. Thanks for stopping by. Stay well.
The blue dot in your channel is like see the fedex truck in front of your door! Btw the piece was round enough to all of us but aussies!! ....sorry I can’t resist.
Maybe he should have taken a photocopy of it, performed a full inspection and made a video disputing the quality of the part. Nah, only a dickhead would do that.
@@Shop-Tech I literally laughed out loud. Thanks for the support.
Awesome Joe, thanks, enjoyed as always, Will
Glad you enjoyed it
Turned out great. One suggestion would be to turn a shoulder on your sacrificial stock to allow a thickness check without pulling the part. Just an idea.
Nice idea. 👍🦘
Or a known reference surface to measure to. Good idea.
@@joepie221 On that little fixture plate you use is it possible to fit a dowel pin or reference ball so that you can pick the entire plate up and move it between machines or simply re-orient it and then use the pin to re-reference?
So long as you don't take the part off you should be able to very accurately keep the reference. For parts like the base plate that are odd shapes that you need to keep moving - shouldn't that work?
Great job again. I have to remake this part, since the first one I made warped all over the place. Still haven't figured that out. But anyway, I like this sequence a lot. Not sure my lathe is rigid enough for pressure turning - may take your advice of putting a pin in the middle of the stainless rod to more accurately locate the part. Don't know - but as always, lots to learn from and consider. Thank you. Also - have never liked the idea of using adhesives to hold parts for machining. Seems like if you haven't figured out how to clamp a part - then you're not ready to cut it.
I look at all the parts I hold as if I have to develop a process to run 100 of them. Using glue is fine for extremely light and delicate parts if you are only going to do one or two, but its never been my first consideration.
I use cigarette papers (what the self rollies use) they are just over .001 inch thick, to get cutters close to the job, rather than shimstock, I don't blow cutter edges that way! I like your way of doing things, just adds another dimension to doing these jobs. All good.
Thanks for your continued positive comments. On my CNC, I use a .375 pin. I get the cutter close and come up with the tool until the pin rolls under, then fine adjustment is easy from there. I don't chip tools any more.
Thanks for a very informative video
educational and very interesting as usual. Thank you
Great work holding. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
In the old days we used cigarette paper as a feeler gage.(we Dutch roll them ourselves) When the paper got stuck under the mill you where 0.02 mm (0.001") off. In those days we always needed 2 packages of rolling paper with our pouch of tobacco. It was always good to have some smokers on the shop floor. Luckily times have changed and i quit the habit a loooong time ago. (But i still use the paper)
I've heard a lot of guys say that.
Nice work , thanks for sharing .
Thanks for the video Joe.
Any time!
Another great vid on getting stuff done. 🦘👍🦘👍🦘👍🦘👍🦘
Glad you enjoyed it
@@joepie221 I enjoy it a lot. Its been one of the brighter points this year.
I ordered a lathe last week -> www.machineryhouse.com.au/L555D
Chinese made lots of equipment. Buy the time I added up all the equipment and added it to the TU-3008G I was also considering it was about $500 extra and just so much more.
Still undecided on a mill. Considering this if things go well. -> www.machineryhouse.com.au/M577
Hi Joe, Well I have been keeping up since episode 1... Really now looking forward to the assembly and first run finale! I have watched other TH-camrs try to build this kit.....
YOU WIN!!!
I think there is a big difference between Joe's workshop and knowledge and experience as a professional machinist and a small hobbiest setup with evidently little experience but a big heart. Don't really see it as a competition but I agree with your sentiment that Joe is on the money.
I make these videos for all levels of skill. I am sure there are better ways coming from craftsman with more steam engine experience, but I do these to show safe, reliable and efficient shop practices born of a lifetime of experience. I value my viewers and take their desire to learn good practices very seriously.
Like your setups Joe, Knocking them down, soon you will have a running steam engine !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
4 more 5-40 nuts to make and I'm done.
It never fails. The prettiest part has the least exposed surface.
Seems that way. I'll still give it 100% even if you can't see it.
Joe you did it again . i have learned alot from your videos . thanks once again
Glad to hear it
Great demo there Joe I have not used pressure turning in all my years 'Yet'
Once you try it, you'll find many uses for it.
I'm really enjoying this video series!!! And im not at all a model engine guy.. You just have some great take aways and technics with all these parts.. I will be sad to see this come to an end...
Thank you very much! I plan to do another.
Hey Joe. Thanks for a lot of useful information and tips and tricks.
Happy to help!
Great video Sir.... Thank you
Glad you liked it
Thank you!
Thank you.
Excellent content- as usual !! Thanks, Joe.
Glad you enjoyed it
Joe, Always love watching the stuff you present. Always good content and I love your geometry classes. :) I'd like to suggest shutting off the auto-focus on your camera for fixed machining shots. It is hard to watch when the camera keeps going in and out of focus constantly.
Thanks for the great content.
Thanks Joe
Hey Joe! Another great video. I've had the same problem from time to time with the little "disc" in the bottom of the hole. The only thing I can come up with is because the bottom of an end mill is tapered a bit for relief the outside of that cutter begins to cut before the center does. Am I correct on assuming this sir? Just curious and that's the only thing I can come up with. Keep up the great work Joe!
You are correct. The bottom of an end mill is usually hollow ground and causes that.
Awesome results on a tricky part (and a somewhat miserable material to work with)... movin' on, movin' on!
Getting close.
Top Notch ! Mr Machine !
I like it.
Thanks, I learn a lot from your videos.
👍👍👍
I'm glad to hear that.
@@joepie221 Well my DIY mill is almost ready, some final adjustments are left, so I hope soon I will start implementing what I have learned....
Great video as usual. Why are people calling you out for the bottom of the gland packing not being a drill point or taper. I've seen all variations of square bottoms, tapered followers and the like, used in valves for steam systems. The packing rope just needs to be installed correctly with the right amount of compression. Getting that right is critical. The shape of the hole it sits in doesn't matter as square faces will still compress the rope against the shaft and body.
The way I see it, is displacement is displacement. If 2 surfaces are coming together, the difference in packing pressure over a size that small will be minimal. Flat faces are fine.
Gidday Joe, Loving this build series so far, keep up the great work. You are liken to a magician with lots of neat work holding tricks up your sleeve. Did you make the tooling plate and toe clamps or is this a commercially available item?
I made that setup many years ago. I may reproduce and sell them on my website.. They seem to be quite popular.
Some nice pro tips, Joe! I would guess that those mill clamps are shop-made.
Yes they are!
Amazing work m8
Thanks 😁
Nice work ...
Could you please explain a little more about the cone shaped device you installed at 14:41 between the live center and the work? I would appreciate any help.
Pressure turning with a live center is not unusual. But when doing it, you should use something that keeps the point from being the only thing in contact with your work. Points usually dig in after a short while and then the part slips. The little funnel I used had a cylindrical flat faced tip to aid in the pressure. these are easily made. Might be a good video topic.
@@joepie221 thank you, I understand now. Yes would be great to see a video on making these!
Joe, love watching your videos. (I grew up in Morristown, not far from Randolph). I was really hoping you were going to show how you measured and laid out the 6 holes in this piece. Any videos showing that process? Thank you again!
Its just a 6 hole 1.25 dia. BC. I think some of the comments on the cylinder head video cover that.
I should watch the whole video before making a comment 😁 nice work thank you for the video Joe
Looking so good!
Thanks. I'm very pleased.
Nice visit !
Hi Joe
Never tried pressure turning but have to agree about glue.Every time i have used it it has failed and i have had to either redo or find another way.Pressure turning here we come
I use it quite often.
One day, I would love to see how you made that pressure turning tool....I am guessing you have a few tricks on how you do that. And, as always a brilliant piece of machining and content.
Use a big centerdrill on a piece of aluminum. Set your compound to 30 degrees and turn a funnel leaving the center drilled area alone. The turn a small diameter at the neck of the funnel and part it off. Watch my mini cosmo on ice video. Same technique.
@@joepie221 Awesome...many thanks....will try it this weekend...no promises on how many times it takes me to get a useable one though! thanks again
I absolutely love the pressure turn I showed an apprentice at work that and he was shocked and I learned it from a past video of yours.. could you ever have the part stall out using that technic?
You sure can. Adequate pressure and a good contact drive surface are important. PSA sanding discs work well for more aggressive parts, but beware of the mild marks it may leave on your part.
Joe, i was recording in my shop, breaker failed! some of my best work,, too!! i hope electrician fixes it tomorrow!!! im limited to recoprding in comp room till its fixed. im running out of stuff to record " whats inside of..." videos with. poppy's workshop says HI
Ya wow you should do model kits more often. Those are realy cool, hey and also a handy way of making those little boring bars is just grind a taper on the end of an old carbide reamer shank the same as an insert pocket and braze er' on grind to sexy the iscar little ifanger style taper starts off .250 bore's like .215 has a 45 at the end for starting reamers thats a good one to have
After this project you next challenge should be to build this out of raw stock! And no plans :)
I think the EL1 kit is next. It looks like too much fun to pass up.
Hi Joe, another good explanation, I also wonder about the wisdom of glue, I'd be worried about heat build up and the glue failing!! pressure holding has to be safer and less prone to inaccuracy due to movement. Question.. you quite rightly identify the potential for the cylinder fouling the base casting, if it does need some extra clearance, and to keep it all looking 'Well Engineered' would you re jig the base and clean up the casting with a boring head/fly cutter to cut a flat the dia of the cylinder OD, offset from the previously machined surface so it is nice and concentric with the other circular features?
The area in question is very small and only gets close to a corner of the steam box. An extremely small cut would suffice. If you are good with a file, that would be fine as the area is out of sight at assembly.
Oil cups
Those oil cups i am sure would be fine for a light test run but those oil drip reservoir type seem like the way to really set off a model like every one else has and one that someone builds to their own specs
Wouldnt The stock cups would just dump the oil where as those drip type helps manage the amount of drip
A small pin or piece of felt can help regulate the drip rate. Some of my hard core model guys have mentioned that.
👍😎👍........ thanks for the lesson.
HI Joe, liked your way of holding the part, I soft soldered my parts to a brass bar, your way is better and quicker. Don't you need threads for the packing nut?
Rich
The gland on the opposite side has 2 screws.