Here in Houston, lots of the restaurants have the A/C going even when it's in the 50's outside. I've been shivering in the front while waiting for the food. In one case, I helped the manager get the thermostat control switched to heat mode - someone'd been buggering the buttons. I ended up popping the cover off of the white/rogers switch, setting the switches and buttons back in place (broken loose), and seating the case back on. Then they could use the buttons and levers.
@@throttlebottle5906 - nah. This looked like button smacking damage, plus dropping the cover plate on the floor when replacing batteries. I have no problems pointing the finger when warranted, but this wasn't.
Thank you. I downloaded that manual and added it to my collection, I think I'm up to a couple of gigs now, sure lighter than the passenger seat full of books. 😅 Last time I dealt wirh one I didn't have time so I did the Carrier jumper bypass. Customers don't usually want to fix them in our semi-arid climate. I would opt for an automotive decade box especially for the 2nd one. You can select any value with the switchboard. I have in the van from when I used to work on cars, I need a second one. Even working on TRANE a second one is real handy. Got mine at AES Wave, but you could shop around.
@@HVACRSurvival While searching for a generator for 2-10v, I found the FNIRSI SG-004A. It will create the 2-10v, 4-20ma PWM, simulate a thermistor. Basically all the low voltage stuff. It has good reviews compared to the FLUKE for 1/10 the price. I will probably order it on my next check. With that I don't need a second decade box. I need something to generate a 2-10v signal ran into it again with a VFD on Friday.
The first thing I do when an rtu is running mechanical cooling in cold weather is ohm out the outdoor air sensor. 9 times out of 10 that's the problem.
Sadly from my experience on those Fluke 900 series clamp meters, they do not do well over 2k Ohms of resistance. I find myself thinking a 10K Honeywell TR21 is bad because mine is not reading any resistance. But I double check it with my 17B in the truck and I suddenly have resistance.
Another great video! And the place will save a little energy by not running the air conditioner for the kitchen when it is 19F outside! Reminds me of a call I got one night, while I was at a concert, the back up on call guy was pretty new, it was 50F outside, and he had a call for a computer server room fed by a 3 ton rooftop Carrier unit. I told him to take off the air filter cover, so it would take in about 50% outside air. He asked "Why". (he was very new). On Monday, I installed a fan cycling switch so the head pressure would stay high enough to not trip the unit on low suction pressure. I have found freezers with two fans, and nothing to shut off one of the fans when below 55F outside!
because blower and motor shaft alignment is off some, it needs a dual adjustable tensioner plate and adjusted so the tension is even "via tension gauge" and making sure the shafts are perfectly parallel when under tension. they're likely prepositioned to try and correct for wear, which may make it eat the outer belt first, then as it wears the inner gets loose and eaten first. really, in my opinion, it's a big waste of time, because things move around from hard starts, change as bearings age, the belts will never "stretch" evenly, nor the sheaves wear the same(cheap/dirty recycled metals). so pretty much give everything the stink-eye and get it as close as possible without wasting hours.
I've never worked on a allied or even heard of them, but I know with carrier I believe it is you economize it is stage 1 in the winter and then stage two cooling would bring in compressor one and then if all else fails and it can still not reduce the temperature it closes the economizer and brings on stage two therefore you running full cooling
Working on my company's equipment. If you ever want to confirm the heater is working on those MUA units stick a temp sensor in the same spot as the discharge air sensor. Then activate heat and pull the #4 wire off the amplifier. That forces it into high fire. Adjust the gas on the main valve so you're getting roughly 70 degrees TD. Then put the #4 wire back and pull the #5 wire which forces it into low fire. The modulating valve has a blue cap on the side where you adjust low fire trying to achieve 10-13 TD. Once you got that put the #5 wire back and adjust the amplifier to a temp and give it a minute or two and see if you're reading within a few degrees of what you set it to. Sometimes the discharge air sensors go bad so it makes them over or under fire by a lot.
@@HVACRSurvival if you need/want some CaptiveAire manuals or anything let me know. I've sent PDFs to Chris at hvacr videos before including our newer Paragon DOAS units that are becoming very popular since our lead time is weeks vs other companies months
I thought it was terminals 3 and 8 on the amplifier but 100 percent correct, set pilot, high fire, low fire then verify it modulates to supply air temperature.
Upgrading to the JADE would get 2 new sensors, ordering the kit, and that may be in stock rather than just the sensor. As you stated, the JADE would make things much better. For some reason I did not think the new sensors worked on the old controls. It has been awhile since I dealt with one, though.
Anything you say I will quote LOL! You are doing a great job would you please try to keep your little self warm. I know it is impossible I hope people appreciate what you do! I know we have maintenance in the building I live in now they get on the roof they take care of our heating and our whole entire building. And I make sure and tip them on a regular basis. You know oddly enough if I ask for something they're here in about 30 seconds. I appreciate them tremendously. I never realized I've lived in a retirement condominium! But these people are a blessing! And people ought to understand you are a blessing!
sadly not everything is labeled with service factor. so you crapshoot it. worse case it burns up and you pout a larger motor in or don't and keep replacing it as job assurance(LOL) no don't to that, the junk breaks way too much as is. one good parts shortage and the "world" is forked
I wonder what it is with Fluke clamp meters and resistance ranges. They top out at 60K on the better meters like yours. Some are as low as 4K. While my Extech is a cheap meter compared to a Fluke, it will measure up to 40M according to the spec sheet. Accuracy at that end, who knows?
It's Fluke, Fluking you in the ass. But they know there stuff holds up. I wasted money on Fieldpiece, UEI, Amprobe, none of them have lasted like these Flukes have.
it's hard to be accurate over such a huge range, so the magical ones that claim huge ranges are most always not worth a "hill of beans" at either end of the scale, but some may be better at one end vs. the other.
You do know. Thermistors where first used. Back in the 60s. They determined to be unreliable. Because they fail in just a few years. Unlike the mechanical controls that sometimes outlasted the equipment. Then all of a sudden in the 80s. They where brought back in as new technology. There are chain stores we service. All newer YORK. I carried spare sensors. Always can find at least one that is bad on one of the units. I said the same thing you did. Needs new sensors. I would replace all of them. They are cheap and all the same age. Thermistors go bad overtime.
I have a lot of thermistors fail in my ice cream machines because of the temps they run at but I haven't lost many mixed air temp sensors. But your right I should have ordered it,
@@HVACRSurvival I'm thinking of going to our military institute of medicine (I'm from Poland), dear mom had few surgeries done there and the staff was top notch compared to other places, for eyes they use Carl Zeiss machine, their optics are used for making latest generation semiconductors so I think its good on that front
you may be better off with a resistor decade box, with label printed stuck to it for the settings. then again that may be too much fiddle farting around, but it would be widely selectable for the unknown junk you have to look up or call tech support on. then again, maybe just bypass all that useless junktronics crap with simple controls and let them deal with burnt out large components. "danged if you do danged if you don't" lol
Here in Houston, lots of the restaurants have the A/C going even when it's in the 50's outside. I've been shivering in the front while waiting for the food. In one case, I helped the manager get the thermostat control switched to heat mode - someone'd been buggering the buttons. I ended up popping the cover off of the white/rogers switch, setting the switches and buttons back in place (broken loose), and seating the case back on. Then they could use the buttons and levers.
sadly, that was probably the previous "HVAC" techs...
@@throttlebottle5906 - nah. This looked like button smacking damage, plus dropping the cover plate on the floor when replacing batteries. I have no problems pointing the finger when warranted, but this wasn't.
Thank you. I downloaded that manual and added it to my collection, I think I'm up to a couple of gigs now, sure lighter than the passenger seat full of books. 😅 Last time I dealt wirh one I didn't have time so I did the Carrier jumper bypass. Customers don't usually want to fix them in our semi-arid climate.
I would opt for an automotive decade box especially for the 2nd one. You can select any value with the switchboard. I have in the van from when I used to work on cars, I need a second one. Even working on TRANE a second one is real handy. Got mine at AES Wave, but you could shop around.
Thanks for the good info!
@@HVACRSurvival While searching for a generator for 2-10v, I found the FNIRSI SG-004A. It will create the 2-10v, 4-20ma PWM, simulate a thermistor. Basically all the low voltage stuff. It has good reviews compared to the FLUKE for 1/10 the price. I will probably order it on my next check. With that I don't need a second decade box.
I need something to generate a 2-10v signal ran into it again with a VFD on Friday.
The first thing I do when an rtu is running mechanical cooling in cold weather is ohm out the outdoor air sensor. 9 times out of 10 that's the problem.
Impressive troubleshooting
Thank you!
Sadly from my experience on those Fluke 900 series clamp meters, they do not do well over 2k Ohms of resistance. I find myself thinking a 10K Honeywell TR21 is bad because mine is not reading any resistance. But I double check it with my 17B in the truck and I suddenly have resistance.
My fluke 376fc and 902fc both are rated at 60k ohm.
Great video. I learned something new this morning. Thank you for uploading.
Glad it was helpful!
You can set the overload to 125% of nameplate FLA value, If Service factor (SF) is 1.15 or greater....I love your vids/channel !
Thanks for the info 👍👍
Another great video! And the place will save a little energy by not running the air conditioner for the kitchen when it is 19F outside! Reminds me of a call I got one night, while I was at a concert, the back up on call guy was pretty new, it was 50F outside, and he had a call for a computer server room fed by a 3 ton rooftop Carrier unit. I told him to take off the air filter cover, so it would take in about 50% outside air. He asked "Why". (he was very new). On Monday, I installed a fan cycling switch so the head pressure would stay high enough to not trip the unit on low suction pressure.
I have found freezers with two fans, and nothing to shut off one of the fans when below 55F outside!
Yep, we will stage multiple fans as it gets colder if it's a large condenser with several fans.
On dual belt applications, I always find one belt just slightly looser than the other. Drives me crazy. They never seem to wear evenly.
because blower and motor shaft alignment is off some, it needs a dual adjustable tensioner plate and adjusted so the tension is even "via tension gauge" and making sure the shafts are perfectly parallel when under tension. they're likely prepositioned to try and correct for wear, which may make it eat the outer belt first, then as it wears the inner gets loose and eaten first.
really, in my opinion, it's a big waste of time, because things move around from hard starts, change as bearings age, the belts will never "stretch" evenly, nor the sheaves wear the same(cheap/dirty recycled metals). so pretty much give everything the stink-eye and get it as close as possible without wasting hours.
Rick, your content is amazing ! Thank you for sharing !
Hell yeah! It's MUA season, I got one coming soon. Nice job Rick,
Thanks Steve!
I've never worked on a allied or even heard of them, but I know with carrier I believe it is you economize it is stage 1 in the winter and then stage two cooling would bring in compressor one and then if all else fails and it can still not reduce the temperature it closes the economizer and brings on stage two therefore you running full cooling
I'm a carrier dealer and use to do lennox, the control in this video was the same they use in the carrier. (the older ones)
Working on my company's equipment. If you ever want to confirm the heater is working on those MUA units stick a temp sensor in the same spot as the discharge air sensor. Then activate heat and pull the #4 wire off the amplifier. That forces it into high fire. Adjust the gas on the main valve so you're getting roughly 70 degrees TD. Then put the #4 wire back and pull the #5 wire which forces it into low fire. The modulating valve has a blue cap on the side where you adjust low fire trying to achieve 10-13 TD. Once you got that put the #5 wire back and adjust the amplifier to a temp and give it a minute or two and see if you're reading within a few degrees of what you set it to. Sometimes the discharge air sensors go bad so it makes them over or under fire by a lot.
That's all great information that I have to look up when I work on them👍👍
@@HVACRSurvival if you need/want some CaptiveAire manuals or anything let me know. I've sent PDFs to Chris at hvacr videos before including our newer Paragon DOAS units that are becoming very popular since our lead time is weeks vs other companies months
hvacrsurvival@gmail.com send what you got. 👍👍 Usually what you just told me is the main thing I need but I'll take anything you got.
@@HVACRSurvival sent attached the resistance chart for the discharge sensors too
I thought it was terminals 3 and 8 on the amplifier but 100 percent correct, set pilot, high fire, low fire then verify it modulates to supply air temperature.
Master built. Great content!
Thanks 👍👍
Those crappy sightglasses! I take and remove it, replace it with 4x4 box cover. Cover easily removes for future service, super cheap.
They're definitely harder to evaluate the color
I've replaced a few of those enthalpy controls..
Wasn't taking the biscuits to the baker .lol
I hate when the bread gets stale 🤣
@@HVACRSurvival decent steak there
I never worked on a Raw Dog system ever . Learning new ,old terms .
Really? LOL they are great!
@@HVACRSurvival Raw dog had a different meaning in my day😂
Upgrading to the JADE would get 2 new sensors, ordering the kit, and that may be in stock rather than just the sensor.
As you stated, the JADE would make things much better.
For some reason I did not think the new sensors worked on the old controls. It has been awhile since I dealt with one, though.
Depends what sensors were talking about. The thermistor is the same I believe. The other sensors are communicating on the buss network.
thanks for your password 😂😂😂
lol I'm not worried about that as much as the customers name being shown.
Anything you say I will quote LOL! You are doing a great job would you please try to keep your little self warm. I know it is impossible I hope people appreciate what you do! I know we have maintenance in the building I live in now they get on the roof they take care of our heating and our whole entire building. And I make sure and tip them on a regular basis. You know oddly enough if I ask for something they're here in about 30 seconds. I appreciate them tremendously. I never realized I've lived in a retirement condominium! But these people are a blessing! And people ought to understand you are a blessing!
Your always so nice! You have me curious, did you use to be in the field or just a curious person like me?
Good job Rick.
🤝🤜🤛👍👍
You need to look for service facto ( SF) on the name plate to know how to set overload over FLA.
sadly not everything is labeled with service factor. so you crapshoot it. worse case it burns up and you pout a larger motor in or don't and keep replacing it as job assurance(LOL) no don't to that, the junk breaks way too much as is. one good parts shortage and the "world" is forked
19 degree's really ? My wife runs about 15 -16 degrees ... Uh Oh I gotta go I think she's pulling into the garage 😂😅🤣 Good vid as usual ...
😂
I wonder what it is with Fluke clamp meters and resistance ranges. They top out at 60K on the better meters like yours. Some are as low as 4K. While my Extech is a cheap meter compared to a Fluke, it will measure up to 40M according to the spec sheet. Accuracy at that end, who knows?
It's Fluke, Fluking you in the ass. But they know there stuff holds up. I wasted money on Fieldpiece, UEI, Amprobe, none of them have lasted like these Flukes have.
it's hard to be accurate over such a huge range, so the magical ones that claim huge ranges are most always not worth a "hill of beans" at either end of the scale, but some may be better at one end vs. the other.
Rule of thumb is 10% extra to go from 230 to 208
Are you starting to see any Commercial VRF units installed?
I see them in some of the higher end equipment.
@@HVACRSurvival It seems it should be the way to go for new builds, all those air paths must take up a lot of building space.
Nice video Rick
19 Degree’s! Hope that’s Celsius😀- Good video / stay Warm Rick 🥶
No we're Fahrenheit. 19F = -7*C
T-series thermostats are horrible. A Pro 8000 would be better. I agree with changing to a Jade controller.
Ha Rick did you make a video on your jumper box
I did one on the car jump start and one Opus 120v power box. I'm getting a 3800 watt whole house solar power system to review.
19 😮
You do know. Thermistors where first used. Back in the 60s. They determined to be unreliable. Because they fail in just a few years. Unlike the mechanical controls that sometimes outlasted the equipment. Then all of a sudden in the 80s. They where brought back in as new technology. There are chain stores we service. All newer YORK. I carried spare sensors. Always can find at least one that is bad on one of the units. I said the same thing you did. Needs new sensors. I would replace all of them. They are cheap and all the same age. Thermistors go bad overtime.
I have a lot of thermistors fail in my ice cream machines because of the temps they run at but I haven't lost many mixed air temp sensors. But your right I should have ordered it,
Ruff and Warsh 😂
Did I say that in this one? 😂
👍👍 Nice job 👍 👍
Thanks 👍
I'm thinking about laser eye surgery, is it worth it? I can't see shit from 10 meters onward, close up its fine.
The best money I ever spent. Just do a lot of research on the Dr and the laser they use, Those are the only eyes you get....
@@HVACRSurvival I'm thinking of going to our military institute of medicine (I'm from Poland), dear mom had few surgeries done there and the staff was top notch compared to other places, for eyes they use Carl Zeiss machine, their optics are used for making latest generation semiconductors so I think its good on that front
you may be better off with a resistor decade box, with label printed stuck to it for the settings. then again that may be too much fiddle farting around, but it would be widely selectable for the unknown junk you have to look up or call tech support on.
then again, maybe just bypass all that useless junktronics crap with simple controls and let them deal with burnt out large components. "danged if you do danged if you don't" lol
👍
👍👍👍👍👍👀
347 thumbs up
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