I was working with Faro Arm Scanner and as a reverse engineer, You hit pretty much all the tips there are. Only one I would add is that more points is Usually BAD due to increase in noise so try to always move over one spot only once (from said angle) and in the most fluid motion there is, almost like in a painting booth. You need to do the minimal amount of overlap to hit all the places as required angles and you would never spray only from one angle. In this style of scanner you might need to do some more overlap but that depends on the preparation and mode you are using. Slow and steady wins the race. TLDR: move slow, steady, in fluid motion and one direction in one go. Do not go back and forth like brushing your teeth.
I'll have to try that- I have been working under the assumption that more points collected in the same area would result in higher confidence in those points... I guess that's completely backwards?
@@sethphillips4779 What ends up happening with that type of scanners is that you get to much overlapping points. This creates noise that hurts your clarity, and can (especially in the near infra red mode) create misaligned frames that cause glitches in your scan. That said, you should try and get that area from all required angles (to get optimal coverage of all geometric features in this region), but getting more of the same, or going back and forth tends to create issues.
Adding a few more tips for handheld scanners that I've found to work well: 1. If the scanner has lost track, it would be best to stop the scan and start a new one, make sure to create enough overlap and stitch the scans later (I would also manually remove misaligned frames) 2. for scanning both sides of a thin part (sheet metal for example), I would use something to give it more thickness and something to track on when switching between the to sides. A loop of non translucent tape connecting the two sides works well, and easy enough to remove later. 3. On large smooth surfaces, where a NIR scanner would have a hard time tracking, I would add fake geometric features- even attaching crumpled pieces of tape would work.
Especially nice to know if you need to reverse engineer something to create a mirrored model of it for functional parts where one side is damaged or broken.
Wait, I have this exact AC unit and I was planning on doing this exact mod to convert it to double hose. Would you mind sharing the final STL? Would be really helpful. 🙏 *edit* : all parts are now available in description. Either they were added afterwards, or I was blind from the very beginning. But in any case, thank you.
I'd like the see the "pre-warping" topic, mostly to see how functional it would be on a variety of prints... I'm guessing it doesn't do well when the flexing is in the Z-axis
I guess you could take the created deformation map (depth map) out of Inspector and apply deformations to the mesh file via some software. Maybe Blender? The model is already scaled and with writing down the depth map furthest points info it should be possible to calibrate it nicely for some geometry modifiers.
Please do a video on that. I could imagine that its very hard to find the points at where to begin and end the deformation, as this also affects the print acceleration, flow, input shaping, etc, you name it :P
I turn off the fans and lower nozzle temps to avoid warping on some parts. Works on a lot of parts. I never allow more than 40% fan speed on my prints for PETG. And bridges keep printing perfectly.
I would like to add something regarding the two-hose-modification of your AC. I also did something like this to a (a little smaller) Hornbach Hantech 9000 BTU unit. Knowing a little bit about refrigeration systems I closely monitored the operation parameters of the AC unit and measuring the airflow across the condensing heat exchanger with and without the second hose. The size of the condensers in these units is so closely calculated that with a second hose the compressor was working with way higher condensing temperatures and therefore pressure. Also the compression ratio was getting way outside the comfort zone of the compressor (which limits the lifespan of the compressor and also lowers the efficiancy). I started adding bigger and bigger fans into the suction hose setup and only a massive EBM PABST W2E200-HK38-01 brought enough airflow again across the condensor to run the compressor again inside its happy-zone. I would strongly recommend to add an additional fan into the suction hose to keep your AC happy and prevent premature failure of the compressor. Thank you for yet another very informative video, I learned a lot over the past few years following your channel.
This was my concern, I was thinking about a mod like this and hadn't gotten to the research about it is a good idea. What is the total savings running like this? Is it worth while?
@@snaplash I already use 150mm hoses, which are the largest size available for these purposes (of course you could repurpose even larger hoses, but at some point it gets a little ridiculous to attach two 300mm hoses to your window...). But with the two 150mm hoses (each about 2m in length) I had a dramatically large drop in air movement compared to only the exhaust hose of 2m.
@@eslmatt811 It´s definitely worth doing. You get significantly more cooling power out of the same unit. The main waste of energy/efficiency is that with the standard one-hose-unit you throw out an insane amount of your precious cool indoor air to condense the refrigerant which in turn gets sucked back in though all the little gaps in your building and is so replaced by hot outside air. I can cool/dehumidify a much larger area with the same unit now.
As you point out - the major limitation here is the software. Was true for FDM printing for a long time. Still is true for resin printing. Also: hang some radiant barrier insulation on your ceiling, and that hotspot problem will be largely solved.
@@JackOfGears It's about the price of an X1 carbon? I think you've been spoiled by having very inexpensive hobbies.. lucky! That could be a weekend of rental cost with a qualified instructor for a student pilot. Also about the Price of a nice guitar and amp. A long surfboard... pretty much any part on your garage-restored classic car.. a good quality bike... etc..etc.. etc..
@@TylerDurden-pk5km I used to work with scanners that cost 30 times as much just a few years ago, and this video shows very similar results to what I would get. This brings high resolution 3d scanning to hobbyists with big enough budget, I would expect it go get even cheaper in a few more years.
I've done a fair few 3D scans over the years and I'd like to add;; It isn't a substitute for measuring, even if the tracking says its fine, sometimes its not and your geometry is lying to you in subtle and devious ways, always double check what you can. 3D scanning isn't a "Magic Bullet", it helps but often doing a 3D scan, post processing and working with the CAD to make new digital representations is just as much effort as the old tried and true methods. 3D Scanners are expensive, need a powerful computer, sometimes very expensive software (though also often included) and a lot of patience - make sure they are what you need before paying a lot of money for something you may not use. There are some things, like complex large surface 3d curvature that are very impractical to do other ways, if you do something like this you'll love it.
This kind of tech and cost feels like a good fit for a library with a tech person and classes. My local library is awesome and has several 3D printers with community access and a dedicated staff member who is familiar with the tech. Additionally, they have a library of things section where we can check out common household items or items that aren't common but are the kind of things you might want to borrow once in awhile like a sewing machine or laser measure. Having a 3D scanner to use at the library would be a great community tool!
Please do more about GOM Inspect and useful features to make parts accurate or how to predeform parts. This like that are not common knowledge so any tips you have to better work with materials and remain accurate would be great !
I used to work with professional grade GOM scanner (metrology of turbine blades) and I can assure you, that problem with seams is relatively commmon. Especially trailing edges were constant issue, pretty much regardless what we tried. What you achieved with that hand-held device is pretty decent in terms of results, main difference (I asume) is the time spent per part 🙂
I also have the Raptor and the best way to proccess the scanned parts is to open all the optimized point clouds into Meshlab and then do the alignment there (The yellow circle with an "A"). In that menu, glue the first object, then select the second one and use the Point based Gluing, then repeat the poaint based gluing with all the parts
*I would love to see how you like the Revopoint MINI 2.* I heard the software from Revopoint is much better than the Creality software. For example you just need to pause the scan and then start again to merge scans automatically. It costs less than half as much, uses blue structured light, precision of up to 0.02 mm. Seems competitive. Would love to see a comparison ❤❤
I had the original MINI and unfortunately it's not as good as it might seem. The blue light is literally a gimmick as real scanners use higher class lasers where with the MINI you just get class 1 which isn't enough for properly illuminating shiny and any even slightly darker objects. Thus you literally NEED to use scanning spray for practically everything not white or gray, so that's an additional cost to keep in mind. Second the scanning window is ridiculously small. You'll need to have like 6 markers in the frame at all times or else you'll lose track, and even then be prepared to have ugly seams after you try merging multiple scans. The "good" software from Revopoint argument, to my knowledge, came from being the first scanner/software that was of any use at all. Creality when it first got into 3d scanning had licensed 3DMakerPro's scanners and their software was god awful. After this failure they've released their own scanner Ferret, it had an even worse software than 3DMP's. It was like this until the release of Otter and Raptor which now are miles ahead of Revopoint in case of hardware and a tad better software. Still not as good as Einscan but they're getting there.
@@KingDingeling404 Currently there's almost no coverage of it from real users and the Revopoint's live showcase presented it as a slower device than Raptor, despite having more laser lines! The price is low because they've cheaped out on the speed again. A laser scanner to work well should be running at the very least 30FPS and not 15 like they've shown - data acquisition is really slow for this reason, hopefully the tracking is computed at a higher frequency because otherwise it's going to be horrendous with the current state of marker tracking. Besides that they've also not demonstrated the scanner's tracking ability really well, only a flat plane scattered with markers was scanned so we don't know how it deals on edges or going from one side of the object to the another. The only good thing about it is finally the ability to scan shiny objects.
Excellent video even for people like myself who are not likely to be buying or using a scanner in the near future. You did a great job explaining the operation of 3D scanners in general and their pros and cons.
I used iPhone as a 3D scanner few times in my job as an engineer in a metal working shop. One time it was a spare oil filter holder for the machine for our neighbour's plant. It had non-perpendicular surfaces, notch in one of them and mounting holes within on some distance from base surface. In that barely hobbial case iPhone's lidar is enough, I always can play with tolerances in my job; I also can add some parts in CAD to fine tune fixtures in assembly
I've heard using the camera is better than the lidar most of the time. Id prefer lidar though so you don't have to pay for the cloud processing and algorithms that usually require a monthly payment
My quick tip is using talcum based sprays like foot powder or a self made one using talcum power and isopropyl alcohol or an other rapidly evaporating solvent thats compatible with your work piece. Talc is a refractive mineral that is nearly as refractive as the expensive scanning sprays for a fraction of the cost. A kg can be had for about 16 usd and if you just use water and patience it will save you thousands in the equivalent quantity in scanning sprays. I have access to a 20k usd scanner and so far, I prefer to use photogrammetry with my Samsung phone and Agisoft Metashape as long as I don't change the zoom of the camera, I get an accuracy of 0.1mm with the included metadata in the pictures plus the scans are textured with color. However, if I use the zoom function, I typically get great accuracy by simply scaling the scan by the zoom factor and if that fails a single reference measure typically gets me on the money. I will continue to monitor creality scanners because they do seem to be evolving the landscape the most.
How are you getting such a high resolution using a Samsung phone? I used to work in the past with an Artec Spider scanner, but whenever I tried to use my phone and photogrammetry for personal projects I got awful results.
@@ofekfischerThe software has a big impact, i got random scribles using meshroom, i also tried several other photogamatry programs and they where a let down. Agisoft Metashape gave me decent results that I could use as a reference right out of the gate with rather poor lighting. After improving my workflow and more importantly tweaking all the available settings in the software I get very good scans with my phone and the app called open camera. The app was also a key factor, I can lock all the settings even some advanced settings like ISO, white balance and so one as if it was a real professional camera. Also to be fair all in I'm well past 1.5k usd of the creality scanner. Technically I already had the equipment but 1k usd for the phone, 2k usd for a gaming computer thats is also a workstation, the license for the software 3.5k for commercial and 200 usd for personal, it does have a free trial tho that was neat. Not to mention all my time spent researching and testing. Lastly if I use a different camera I have to revalidate abd essentially calibrate the whole process to get back to where I was which is why I just use my Samsung phone since I always have it on hand and I'm already set up.
@@peterhindes56 It's called open camera, I've been using it since 2014. The app lets you manually adjust focus and lock it in, along with a whole mess of other settings. But aside from that, taking 100 to 200 pictures helps a lot.
I used sticky foam letter (cut up in weird shapes) when using the David SLS scanning. Worked great. Now I use the OpenScan scanner, great thing, and self cleaning spray. ❤
Scanning sprays are expensive and I scan, photogrammetry, so infrequently that using them is not economical. Instead I've found that lightly applying talcum power yields better result than without it.
My work place got one on my recommendation... and I brought it home to give it a work out ;) . I used it to scan my old Rovers boot wing and using five different scans (the ends are a rather awkward shapes for the scanner to pick up in one hit) came up with a great scan and the auto merge worked great all things considered (a lot better than I expected it'd do), though I did need to merge different scans from the same side before merging the two merged sides together... I think that makes sense... otherwise I got some rather funky positioning. I certainly enjoyed using it more than the creaform scanner that my work place also has... and the software was a great deal easier to get going as well. The Creaform has a connector that breaks me out in a sweat when connecting the cable to the scanner due to the pins being hair thin versus the type C connector on the Raptor.
I used to scan sheet metal and other thin parts from time to time. My solution to getting both sides to align was to create "loops" from simple tape that connect both sides and space them accros the edge. That created something for the scanner to track on, and was easy enough to remove from the point cloud later.
Great introduction to scan and very, very, very good teasing of the material (using a Go!Scan 50 and Einscan, but want that my lab buy a creality to test it). Just one little thing, cause I'm actively working in photogrammetry : photogrammetry is Structure from Motion acquisition technique WITH references (scalebars, coded targets with the knowing constraints between them, etc ...), so, with photogrammetry, you have the real scale and you can go to insane precision (depending of the camera and the distance to the subject). This comment is only because I work in that field ;) and I teach the difference between SfM and Photogrammetry, cause a lot of sofwares use "photogrammetry" as a generic term for 3D acquisition from photos (more commercialy understandable than SfM). Love your videos, you really explain complex process in an easy way and even people working on those fields always find something to think of ;), great job !!!
I think in general it's better to base models off the thing that goes in the slot rather than the slot itself since that should already include a lot of the features that you want to match up with and can copy directly instead of trying to estimate clearances from the negative.
I was studying homemade 3d scanners for the last month, I wished that video came a week earlier 😢,only now I'm trying structured light homemade scanners
Which one? HP 3d Scan or Flexscan3d? Flexscan3d is from my pov the best DIY 3d scanner you could build on your own which easily compete with very expensive industrial 3d scanner.
@@RC-fp1tlThere are two good SLS scanning software options that due to being ancient are now free! HP 3D Scan Pro V5 and FlexScan3D. As for the setup you'll need a projector and 1 or 2 industrial usb cameras (webcams work too but they have worse drivers and image quality). You'll also need to print calibration boards on either carton or plastic boards.
Pretty cool to see this capability level getting closer to a price point that is mote palletable, but like many others, its still about 500-600 too much given its still evident difficiencies and software shortcomings. The workflow is still cumbersome too.
Instead of scanning spray I use a spray bottle filled with rubbing alcohol and talco powder. Very cheap and effective. After the scan you can clean the part with compressed air or a brush.
This was a great review. I work in vfx and will be shooting a new movie in China. There will be a huge need to scan many small weapons and props etc on set. We can hire a company that will scan and process all the bigger things and environments but that will be $200k so this will be great to buy and use for these smaller objects to reduce cost. Will pay for itself multiple times on just one job :)
Even my cheap 300$ creality lizard i bought a few years ago give me good scanning results, the big job is in cad afterwards, the scanning is the easy bit. Done a few car part projects to make reference surfaces, definitely a nice tool to have in the garage.
Hi Stefan, I have learned so much through all your videos so this is just a thank you. Thank you for doing all this. Thank you for everthing. Just, thank you.
I have been playing around with 3D scanning for some time now and I got my hands on the two new creality units. My main gripe is that damn edge issue when scanning and merging. I have to compare to my Artec units. I have both an Eva and a Spider and just the software for those machines cost about $1k a year I do have to say that for roughly 1/13th the cost of the artec stuff these Creality units have some serious potential. And the decent resolution and accuracy that makes these scanners a very nice proposition for those looking for those features. CREALITY PLEASE PUT MORE RESOURCES IN TO YOUR SOFTWARE. Great video btw and thanks for sharing.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE TIP ON THE 2019 GOM INSPECT INSTALLER! I messaged their support and they where very wishy washy about the free version. But I can't justify buying it because I literally used it for the alignment feature and nothing else.
Bought the CR Raptor too. Really nice scanner. With more markers and less loss of tracking the laser line on the surface will improve. The curved ends on scans are annoying indeed. I hope they will fix it. I use Geomagic design X to trim the edges of the scan as a workaround. And that there is no orthogonal view is annoying as well. For warping I suggest to use disks with 0.6mm height on corners. The normal brim isn’t stable enough.
I've recently gotten ahold of some powder-based 3d printers, and have been wondering how I can counteract warping during post-processing (i.e. sintering). I would be very interested in a video on this topic; great work as usual :)
As a service provider I work with an industrial Laser-Scanner which is calibrated. They are in the 40-50k € range so nothing for home-users. Even if it´s not comparable to the industrial devices it´s quite impressive how well those entry level scanners work nowadays. However regarding the accuracy-claims I am sceptic since they don´t provide any information regarding the test procedure. The only official test procedure for those devices is the VDI/VDE 2634 part 3 performed by an ISO 17025 accrideted lab for this procedure using also calibrated artifacts. And only one calibration costs more than the whole consumer-grade device. To monitor the reliable function of my devices on a regular basis and in non-lab conditions I use a calibrated ball-bar with also calibrated spheres and a length of one meter. In that way I can check the local accuracy by scanning the spheres as well as the volumetric accuracy by scanning from sphere to sphere and measure the distance in an analysis-software. By the way you can also get different values when using different softwares depending on which algorythms they use e.g. to fit the sphere to the scan data. You should also use the raw pointcloud without meshing because also during the meshing process the data can be manipulated by the smoothing algorythm for example. Since I´m located in Germany - If you are interested we can scan my calibrated ball-bar and spheres with your scanner and see how it performs.
@@rafall1118 Thanks for explanation, weird that they didnt implement same NIR optics on Raptor as it should have blue laser addition without compromise on NIR mode.
I have a MIRACO... The standalone handheld format is great, but it's better to process on a proper desktop. And I really need to invest in some ASUB since most of the stuff I scan is usually a NIR nightmare. It either reflects, absorbs or is transparent to NIR... Also multi scan and stitching is king!
My tip for standing scanners is that items like pennies, which don't like to reconstruct with their sudden surface transfers (their annoying shapes), scan better in marker mode. If your software does that
ive used aesub spray and cans is so much expensive. ive used lots of gheto solution over the years. usually every scan goes tru lot of post processing anyways so its not a issue
Great video! I have a question about the volumetric accuracy of the Creality Raptor. The site says it’s 0.02mm for 100mm, so I guess for a 1000mm part it would be around 0.2mm, right? I’m thinking of upgrading-currently using a Revopoint POP2, and I’m sure the Raptor is way better for small details. But my main focus is scanning larger parts, like 1 to 2 meters, for reverse engineering. With the POP2, even using markers, I’ve seen up to 5mm variation in 1-meter parts when I compare two meshes that should be identical. It seems like there’s a tracking issue or something when merging the point cloud. Has anyone here used the Raptor for scanning bigger parts? How’s the accuracy in practice? The specs look good, but I’m curious about real-world results. Thanks a lot for any help!
I really would like to see the pre deformation feature. It is very useful for engineering parts and I already heard about it when using with injection molding.
Yes! Please make a video on preventing warping of large PETG printed parts! It's not intuitive for me... I would think that it warps while printing and then successive extruded layers printed on a warped printed part would show something resembling a layer shift. However, I discovered no such thing and the finished print was great quality but warped similar to yours. For context I designed and printed an 8kg center console for my car from the radio to the back of the front seats.
I am another vote to see a Fusion360 edit of a scan. I know it’s theoretically possible to import the scanned mesh into Fusion360, then convert to a solid, then modify the critical dimensions, but I can’t find any videos or even reddits that cover this. I wonder things like how much detail is lost and if it’s too much of a process to even consider. Thanks!
I got their original 3D scanner, its good, just cable is proprietary and it broke. Otherwise its decent. My best recommendation for 3D scanning is protect the cable as you are twisting it all around and taking it places to scan things!
I have the ferret pro but my introduction to scanning for printing has not been pleasant mostly due to the difficulties around post processing especially using free software I appreciate the advice given in the video , thanx Stephan and hello from south africa
Pre deforming files based on a calibration print seems super helpful! Relativity space mentioned they did it for their 3d printed rocket parts, I wonder if they use a similar method to this.
I would really want to see a comparison to Revopoint's Miraco and new Miraco Plus scanners, which do not have blue laser, but boast a really good accuracy and cost is relatively similar (at least for new Miraco Plus).
I wish these were accessible and affordable so bad! the iPhones can scan things with its FaceID but it's really hard messy and inaccurate. I've heard some people use a DIY mixture of baby powder and something else as a coating to scan? you could try that :O it'd be cool to combine the two mods to see if you can get more detail.
Thanks for the detail as always - I had no idea how these work. And another example of why i need a 3d scanner! I was looking to make a center console for my FJ40 and then "I Like To Make Stuff" posted a video doing it with a scanner... i'm trying to get my AC to not suck... and here is your video! I have the exact AC in your video! Any chance you would be willing to share your 2nd hose adapter?
I'm still using a modified Kinect sensor for 3D scanning (which I don't do that often anymore though), and obviously it will require some cleaning and/or additional modeling. Do like the quality of this one. And despite the fact that I have 5 Creality printer which we're very satisfied with which are 3 heavily modified Ender 3's (even up to the point we use our own custom board for it), and two CR-10-SE's, I do personally feel that around 1500 bucks is "kinda" on the high end for a Creality product to be honest. It does seem to pick up quite some fine details, but for such prices I rather wait a bit longer until they are (even) more accurate to be honest. However very great video demonstration with lots of importants aspects & tips in regard to 3D scanning 👍🏽
I can't wait till we get Artec quality scanners at this price point. These are equal to the old top quality scanners from 2014-15 or so. We're almost there!
Könntest du mal ausprobieren, was es mit der Stabilität eines Bauteils macht, bei dem bei jeder Schicht Ironing gemacht wird. Gibt's ja eigentlich immer nur auf dem Toplayer, aber hierbei werden die Schicht ja noch einmal verschmolzen quasi. Könnte mir vorstellen das dies zu einer deutlich besseren Lagerhaftung im Bauteil führt. Dauert dann zwar ewig, aber für bestimmte Bauteile evtl. sehr nützlich
I spent $200 on my cr-scan ferret. The raptor is $1500, and the otter is $800. I imagine most of the viewers have a ferret since the pro model costs 50% more and the SE is not that much cheaper. Not to be that guy, but you focus a lot on the laser mode that only the raptor has. Tip 8 and 10 are definitely the most important in my opinion. tip 5 is also pretty good.
I would scan the cover and not the socket of the air conditioner, and then i would just change it to the shape i want, knowing that it would already fit inside. Correct me if i'm wrong
I want one so bad. Im not super talented in 3d design but i can make the things i want to print lots of by hand first. This would be amazing for making tileable terrain for dnd for me.
This is the first 3d scanner i might buy because every previous consumer scanner looked like total shit. This one looks acceptable while slightly expensive it still seems worth it. Im gonna order one
Note that the Blue light will be absorbed by red surfaces, which can affect scan quality. Objects with hues of red are good candidates for masking prior to scanning
Stick some magnets in your 3d printed markers then place anywhere metallic and you can reuse. You could also stick in Blutac so you can stick your markers to plastic.
Chciałem kupić ale pojawiła się tokarka CNC na terofit i na razie wybrałem tokarkę. Na TH-cam w moi jeżyku niema prawi nic o nim. jedynie jeden użytkownik miał problem z uruchomieniem na dobrym komputerze. Wysłali mu kabel ale nadal nie pomagało, chciał oddać lub wymienić raptora ale odmówili Konic końcu udało się uruchomić na innym komputerze ale niepokojące było podejście wsparcia. Tak czy inaczej pewnie kiedyś go kupię bo mam coraz więcej projektów gdzie by się przydał. Dzięki za film i ciekawe porady i pokaz możliwości :)
Czasami na OLX chodzą tanio Raptory i Einstary. Trzeba tylko wyczekiwać odpowiedniego momentu ;> A co do wsparcia to niestety z chińczolami tak jest, ale akurat w moim przypadku Shining3D był bardzo pomocny i nawet skompilowali mi specjalną wersję Einstar pod mój komputer.
![ปฏิเสธไม่ไหว (Crush on you) - LIPTA feat. No One Else [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NBw1jF342vw/mqdefault.jpg)
I was working with Faro Arm Scanner and as a reverse engineer, You hit pretty much all the tips there are. Only one I would add is that more points is Usually BAD due to increase in noise so try to always move over one spot only once (from said angle) and in the most fluid motion there is, almost like in a painting booth. You need to do the minimal amount of overlap to hit all the places as required angles and you would never spray only from one angle. In this style of scanner you might need to do some more overlap but that depends on the preparation and mode you are using. Slow and steady wins the race.
TLDR: move slow, steady, in fluid motion and one direction in one go. Do not go back and forth like brushing your teeth.
I'll have to try that- I have been working under the assumption that more points collected in the same area would result in higher confidence in those points... I guess that's completely backwards?
@@sethphillips4779 What ends up happening with that type of scanners is that you get to much overlapping points. This creates noise that hurts your clarity, and can (especially in the near infra red mode) create misaligned frames that cause glitches in your scan. That said, you should try and get that area from all required angles (to get optimal coverage of all geometric features in this region), but getting more of the same, or going back and forth tends to create issues.
Adding a few more tips for handheld scanners that I've found to work well:
1. If the scanner has lost track, it would be best to stop the scan and start a new one, make sure to create enough overlap and stitch the scans later (I would also manually remove misaligned frames)
2. for scanning both sides of a thin part (sheet metal for example), I would use something to give it more thickness and something to track on when switching between the to sides. A loop of non translucent tape connecting the two sides works well, and easy enough to remove later.
3. On large smooth surfaces, where a NIR scanner would have a hard time tracking, I would add fake geometric features- even attaching crumpled pieces of tape would work.
Ahh those faro arms are AMAZING. Wish we had one at work. Happy with our transcan c though!
zero your calipers on ball diameter, then measure the overall length to get the center to center distance. Tip for you.
Thank you.
🤓 yes!
Ha, that's so clever
He scanned himself into a pickle, funniest shit I’ve ever seen
Countdown until the pickle mesh is topped with the mini-Stefan head. Move over, Pickle Rick!
"It's an old meme, but it still checks out"
@@mylittleparody2277 Return of the Jedi reference for the win! 🤣🤣🤣
A video on reverse engineering in fusion 360 would be absolutely great ! Thanks for sharing.
Appreciate it! Might share some tips here at some point.
Especially nice to know if you need to reverse engineer something to create a mirrored model of it for functional parts where one side is damaged or broken.
I'd absolutely love to see a video on this
Wait, I have this exact AC unit and I was planning on doing this exact mod to convert it to double hose. Would you mind sharing the final STL? Would be really helpful. 🙏
*edit* : all parts are now available in description. Either they were added afterwards, or I was blind from the very beginning. But in any case, thank you.
i would be interested, too
Same here! Just came to ask the same question
I'd like the see the "pre-warping" topic, mostly to see how functional it would be on a variety of prints... I'm guessing it doesn't do well when the flexing is in the Z-axis
I guess you could take the created deformation map (depth map) out of Inspector and apply deformations to the mesh file via some software. Maybe Blender? The model is already scaled and with writing down the depth map furthest points info it should be possible to calibrate it nicely for some geometry modifiers.
I second this!
"Windage" is the term I see in injection molded parts. Especially when I design something stupid that is a pain to mold.
Please do a video on that. I could imagine that its very hard to find the points at where to begin and end the deformation, as this also affects the print acceleration, flow, input shaping, etc, you name it :P
I turn off the fans and lower nozzle temps to avoid warping on some parts.
Works on a lot of parts.
I never allow more than 40% fan speed on my prints for PETG. And bridges keep printing perfectly.
I would like to add something regarding the two-hose-modification of your AC. I also did something like this to a (a little smaller) Hornbach Hantech 9000 BTU unit. Knowing a little bit about refrigeration systems I closely monitored the operation parameters of the AC unit and measuring the airflow across the condensing heat exchanger with and without the second hose. The size of the condensers in these units is so closely calculated that with a second hose the compressor was working with way higher condensing temperatures and therefore pressure. Also the compression ratio was getting way outside the comfort zone of the compressor (which limits the lifespan of the compressor and also lowers the efficiancy). I started adding bigger and bigger fans into the suction hose setup and only a massive EBM PABST W2E200-HK38-01 brought enough airflow again across the condensor to run the compressor again inside its happy-zone. I would strongly recommend to add an additional fan into the suction hose to keep your AC happy and prevent premature failure of the compressor. Thank you for yet another very informative video, I learned a lot over the past few years following your channel.
This was my concern, I was thinking about a mod like this and hadn't gotten to the research about it is a good idea.
What is the total savings running like this? Is it worth while?
@@snaplash I already use 150mm hoses, which are the largest size available for these purposes (of course you could repurpose even larger hoses, but at some point it gets a little ridiculous to attach two 300mm hoses to your window...). But with the two 150mm hoses (each about 2m in length) I had a dramatically large drop in air movement compared to only the exhaust hose of 2m.
@@eslmatt811 It´s definitely worth doing. You get significantly more cooling power out of the same unit. The main waste of energy/efficiency is that with the standard one-hose-unit you throw out an insane amount of your precious cool indoor air to condense the refrigerant which in turn gets sucked back in though all the little gaps in your building and is so replaced by hot outside air. I can cool/dehumidify a much larger area with the same unit now.
As you point out - the major limitation here is the software.
Was true for FDM printing for a long time. Still is true for resin printing.
Also: hang some radiant barrier insulation on your ceiling, and that hotspot problem will be largely solved.
Drop ceiling is the best solution for crap insulation if you have the room and permission to do so.
1600€ is still quite a step price for a hobby product. Would consider buying one, once they are in the 200-300€ range.
Yeah. That's getting into wealthy enthusiast' territory, rather than 'hobby'.
Until you realize that commercial versions, which have been the only ones available, are 10-30X that cost.
@@JackOfGears It's about the price of an X1 carbon? I think you've been spoiled by having very inexpensive hobbies.. lucky! That could be a weekend of rental cost with a qualified instructor for a student pilot. Also about the Price of a nice guitar and amp. A long surfboard... pretty much any part on your garage-restored classic car.. a good quality bike... etc..etc.. etc..
@@macgyver9134 That may be true, but 1500€ still remain 1500€. 😀
@@TylerDurden-pk5km I used to work with scanners that cost 30 times as much just a few years ago, and this video shows very similar results to what I would get. This brings high resolution 3d scanning to hobbyists with big enough budget, I would expect it go get even cheaper in a few more years.
"I'd really like to have a 3D scan of a pickle."
Dude knows exactly what people will use it for.
Everyone need a 3D printed pickle. It will revolutionary pickle industry 🤪
Everybody will wanna scan pickles and melons
@@psxtuneservice ize*
wonder if he used the scanner for the mystery object in the tpu video
imagine if the layers break off when you are using a 3d printed pickle
I've done a fair few 3D scans over the years and I'd like to add;;
It isn't a substitute for measuring, even if the tracking says its fine, sometimes its not and your geometry is lying to you in subtle and devious ways, always double check what you can.
3D scanning isn't a "Magic Bullet", it helps but often doing a 3D scan, post processing and working with the CAD to make new digital representations is just as much effort as the old tried and true methods.
3D Scanners are expensive, need a powerful computer, sometimes very expensive software (though also often included) and a lot of patience - make sure they are what you need before paying a lot of money for something you may not use.
There are some things, like complex large surface 3d curvature that are very impractical to do other ways, if you do something like this you'll love it.
Kudos for mentioning Payo's youtube videos on scanning. I've watched most of them and it really shows what these scanners can do.
could you share a link for it pls?
I’d love to see a video on the scan inspection + predeformation workflow to compensate for warping
me too!
This kind of tech and cost feels like a good fit for a library with a tech person and classes.
My local library is awesome and has several 3D printers with community access and a dedicated staff member who is familiar with the tech.
Additionally, they have a library of things section where we can check out common household items or items that aren't common but are the kind of things you might want to borrow once in awhile like a sewing machine or laser measure.
Having a 3D scanner to use at the library would be a great community tool!
another tip, if you are going to scan yourself and post process it, do V or T pose. you will have much easier time later on
$1500, yeah that's a hard pass from here.
I converted my AC to 2 hose using cardboard boxes and tape. Much cheaper
Yeah even if it would be great value it feels backwards to spend that much money on a creality.
It's not for people on welfare
@@DD-DD-DD So your the genius of the family, I bet you never got stuffed in a locker at school.
@@noanyobiseniss7462🤣🤣🤣 My god that snap back is brillant. Good one
CNET is a good source for older software versions, I had good luck finding what I was looking for there.
Please do more about GOM Inspect and useful features to make parts accurate or how to predeform parts. This like that are not common knowledge so any tips you have to better work with materials and remain accurate would be great !
I used to work with professional grade GOM scanner (metrology of turbine blades) and I can assure you, that problem with seams is relatively commmon. Especially trailing edges were constant issue, pretty much regardless what we tried.
What you achieved with that hand-held device is pretty decent in terms of results, main difference (I asume) is the time spent per part 🙂
Interesting. I've been working with GOM and ZEISS scanners and never saw that problem. I'll take a closer look next time.
I also have the Raptor and the best way to proccess the scanned parts is to open all the optimized point clouds into Meshlab and then do the alignment there (The yellow circle with an "A"). In that menu, glue the first object, then select the second one and use the Point based Gluing, then repeat the poaint based gluing with all the parts
*I would love to see how you like the Revopoint MINI 2.*
I heard the software from Revopoint is much better than the Creality software. For example you just need to pause the scan and then start again to merge scans automatically.
It costs less than half as much, uses blue structured light, precision of up to 0.02 mm. Seems competitive.
Would love to see a comparison ❤❤
I had the original MINI and unfortunately it's not as good as it might seem. The blue light is literally a gimmick as real scanners use higher class lasers where with the MINI you just get class 1 which isn't enough for properly illuminating shiny and any even slightly darker objects. Thus you literally NEED to use scanning spray for practically everything not white or gray, so that's an additional cost to keep in mind. Second the scanning window is ridiculously small. You'll need to have like 6 markers in the frame at all times or else you'll lose track, and even then be prepared to have ugly seams after you try merging multiple scans.
The "good" software from Revopoint argument, to my knowledge, came from being the first scanner/software that was of any use at all. Creality when it first got into 3d scanning had licensed 3DMakerPro's scanners and their software was god awful. After this failure they've released their own scanner Ferret, it had an even worse software than 3DMP's. It was like this until the release of Otter and Raptor which now are miles ahead of Revopoint in case of hardware and a tad better software. Still not as good as Einscan but they're getting there.
It's been 3 years since I used the Revopoint. Back than their software was _complete garbage_ - not sure how much it has improved since.
@rafall1118
How do you think about the new revopoint Metrox?
Is it a good alternative to the Raptor?
@@KingDingeling404 Currently there's almost no coverage of it from real users and the Revopoint's live showcase presented it as a slower device than Raptor, despite having more laser lines! The price is low because they've cheaped out on the speed again. A laser scanner to work well should be running at the very least 30FPS and not 15 like they've shown - data acquisition is really slow for this reason, hopefully the tracking is computed at a higher frequency because otherwise it's going to be horrendous with the current state of marker tracking. Besides that they've also not demonstrated the scanner's tracking ability really well, only a flat plane scattered with markers was scanned so we don't know how it deals on edges or going from one side of the object to the another. The only good thing about it is finally the ability to scan shiny objects.
Excellent video even for people like myself who are not likely to be buying or using a scanner in the near future. You did a great job explaining the operation of 3D scanners in general and their pros and cons.
I used iPhone as a 3D scanner few times in my job as an engineer in a metal working shop. One time it was a spare oil filter holder for the machine for our neighbour's plant. It had non-perpendicular surfaces, notch in one of them and mounting holes within on some distance from base surface. In that barely hobbial case iPhone's lidar is enough, I always can play with tolerances in my job; I also can add some parts in CAD to fine tune fixtures in assembly
I've heard using the camera is better than the lidar most of the time. Id prefer lidar though so you don't have to pay for the cloud processing and algorithms that usually require a monthly payment
My quick tip is using talcum based sprays like foot powder or a self made one using talcum power and isopropyl alcohol or an other rapidly evaporating solvent thats compatible with your work piece. Talc is a refractive mineral that is nearly as refractive as the expensive scanning sprays for a fraction of the cost. A kg can be had for about 16 usd and if you just use water and patience it will save you thousands in the equivalent quantity in scanning sprays.
I have access to a 20k usd scanner and so far, I prefer to use photogrammetry with my Samsung phone and Agisoft Metashape as long as I don't change the zoom of the camera, I get an accuracy of 0.1mm with the included metadata in the pictures plus the scans are textured with color. However, if I use the zoom function, I typically get great accuracy by simply scaling the scan by the zoom factor and if that fails a single reference measure typically gets me on the money.
I will continue to monitor creality scanners because they do seem to be evolving the landscape the most.
How are you getting such a high resolution using a Samsung phone? I used to work in the past with an Artec Spider scanner, but whenever I tried to use my phone and photogrammetry for personal projects I got awful results.
@@ofekfischerThe software has a big impact, i got random scribles using meshroom, i also tried several other photogamatry programs and they where a let down. Agisoft Metashape gave me decent results that I could use as a reference right out of the gate with rather poor lighting. After improving my workflow and more importantly tweaking all the available settings in the software I get very good scans with my phone and the app called open camera. The app was also a key factor, I can lock all the settings even some advanced settings like ISO, white balance and so one as if it was a real professional camera.
Also to be fair all in I'm well past 1.5k usd of the creality scanner. Technically I already had the equipment but 1k usd for the phone, 2k usd for a gaming computer thats is also a workstation, the license for the software 3.5k for commercial and 200 usd for personal, it does have a free trial tho that was neat. Not to mention all my time spent researching and testing.
Lastly if I use a different camera I have to revalidate abd essentially calibrate the whole process to get back to where I was which is why I just use my Samsung phone since I always have it on hand and I'm already set up.
Yeah what software are you using on the phone?
@@peterhindes56 It's called open camera, I've been using it since 2014. The app lets you manually adjust focus and lock it in, along with a whole mess of other settings. But aside from that, taking 100 to 200 pictures helps a lot.
I used sticky foam letter (cut up in weird shapes) when using the David SLS scanning. Worked great. Now I use the OpenScan scanner, great thing, and self cleaning spray. ❤
Still to expensive, but the results are amazing.
Could you show off how you create a geometry to compensate the deformation by printing/warping?
I’d also love to see how to do the scan inspection, predeformation workflow and compensate for warping.
Scanning sprays are expensive and I scan, photogrammetry, so infrequently that using them is not economical. Instead I've found that lightly applying talcum power yields better result than without it.
Dry shampoo. It smells terrible, but it's dirt cheap and leaves exactly the matte powder you need…
My work place got one on my recommendation... and I brought it home to give it a work out ;) . I used it to scan my old Rovers boot wing and using five different scans (the ends are a rather awkward shapes for the scanner to pick up in one hit) came up with a great scan and the auto merge worked great all things considered (a lot better than I expected it'd do), though I did need to merge different scans from the same side before merging the two merged sides together... I think that makes sense... otherwise I got some rather funky positioning.
I certainly enjoyed using it more than the creaform scanner that my work place also has... and the software was a great deal easier to get going as well. The Creaform has a connector that breaks me out in a sweat when connecting the cable to the scanner due to the pins being hair thin versus the type C connector on the Raptor.
I used to scan sheet metal and other thin parts from time to time. My solution to getting both sides to align was to create "loops" from simple tape that connect both sides and space them accros the edge. That created something for the scanner to track on, and was easy enough to remove from the point cloud later.
@@ofekfischer Thanks for that tip, I'll give it a whirl.
Great introduction to scan and very, very, very good teasing of the material (using a Go!Scan 50 and Einscan, but want that my lab buy a creality to test it). Just one little thing, cause I'm actively working in photogrammetry : photogrammetry is Structure from Motion acquisition technique WITH references (scalebars, coded targets with the knowing constraints between them, etc ...), so, with photogrammetry, you have the real scale and you can go to insane precision (depending of the camera and the distance to the subject). This comment is only because I work in that field ;) and I teach the difference between SfM and Photogrammetry, cause a lot of sofwares use "photogrammetry" as a generic term for 3D acquisition from photos (more commercialy understandable than SfM). Love your videos, you really explain complex process in an easy way and even people working on those fields always find something to think of ;), great job !!!
I think in general it's better to base models off the thing that goes in the slot rather than the slot itself since that should already include a lot of the features that you want to match up with and can copy directly instead of trying to estimate clearances from the negative.
I was studying homemade 3d scanners for the last month, I wished that video came a week earlier 😢,only now I'm trying structured light homemade scanners
Which one? HP 3d Scan or Flexscan3d? Flexscan3d is from my pov the best DIY 3d scanner you could build on your own which easily compete with very expensive industrial 3d scanner.
Have you had any success? I’m interested in building a structured light scanner too
@@RC-fp1tlThere are two good SLS scanning software options that due to being ancient are now free! HP 3D Scan Pro V5 and FlexScan3D. As for the setup you'll need a projector and 1 or 2 industrial usb cameras (webcams work too but they have worse drivers and image quality). You'll also need to print calibration boards on either carton or plastic boards.
Pretty cool to see this capability level getting closer to a price point that is mote palletable, but like many others, its still about 500-600 too much given its still evident difficiencies and software shortcomings. The workflow is still cumbersome too.
I use the reflective points with all my scans. I'm using Otter. It helps keep tracking
Instead of scanning spray I use a spray bottle filled with rubbing alcohol and talco powder. Very cheap and effective. After the scan you can clean the part with compressed air or a brush.
Habe den Raptor für 1020€ neu bei Ebay gekauft... Einwandfrei! Tolles Video! Wie immer!
Can you share the STEP for the AC duct that you made? Id love to be able to tweak it, my AC.
Uploaded it on Printables. Link in the description.
This was a great review. I work in vfx and will be shooting a new movie in China. There will be a huge need to scan many small weapons and props etc on set. We can hire a company that will scan and process all the bigger things and environments but that will be $200k so this will be great to buy and use for these smaller objects to reduce cost. Will pay for itself multiple times on just one job :)
Nice review! The best one. This's really the first place where I learn 3D printing.
Great thinking to upgrade your AC unit! Efficiency is always a virtue.
Even my cheap 300$ creality lizard i bought a few years ago give me good scanning results, the big job is in cad afterwards, the scanning is the easy bit. Done a few car part projects to make reference surfaces, definitely a nice tool to have in the garage.
Hi Stefan, I have learned so much through all your videos so this is just a thank you. Thank you for doing all this. Thank you for everthing. Just, thank you.
Thanks, appreciate it!
Again, i am amazed by the high quality of your videos. Thanks :) very interesting and helpful!
1:03 We love Technology Connections
Pre-warping video please! Superb software recommendation!
This is a very impressive piece of kit. Still out of my price range, but at least this time it feels like it's worth it.
Please do a video where you compensate for the deviation to get a perfect sized part!
Really exciting scanner, good pricepoint. I would love to see how you would adjust the design to account for print deformation.
I have been playing around with 3D scanning for some time now and I got my hands on the two new creality units. My main gripe is that damn edge issue when scanning and merging. I have to compare to my Artec units. I have both an Eva and a Spider and just the software for those machines cost about $1k a year I do have to say that for roughly 1/13th the cost of the artec stuff these Creality units have some serious potential. And the decent resolution and accuracy that makes these scanners a very nice proposition for those looking for those features. CREALITY PLEASE PUT MORE RESOURCES IN TO YOUR SOFTWARE. Great video btw and thanks for sharing.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE TIP ON THE 2019 GOM INSPECT INSTALLER! I messaged their support and they where very wishy washy about the free version. But I can't justify buying it because I literally used it for the alignment feature and nothing else.
I really like to see the pre deforming of parts to compensate for the print warping, that is coool
Bought the CR Raptor too. Really nice scanner.
With more markers and less loss of tracking the laser line on the surface will improve.
The curved ends on scans are annoying indeed. I hope they will fix it. I use Geomagic design X to trim the edges of the scan as a workaround.
And that there is no orthogonal view is annoying as well.
For warping I suggest to use disks with 0.6mm height on corners. The normal brim isn’t stable enough.
There is Orthogonal view! Hold Shift and scroll 💪
@@CNCKitchen hey your right! How did you find it out? 😂
New update dropped as well!
I've recently gotten ahold of some powder-based 3d printers, and have been wondering how I can counteract warping during post-processing (i.e. sintering). I would be very interested in a video on this topic; great work as usual :)
As a service provider I work with an industrial Laser-Scanner which is calibrated. They are in the 40-50k € range so nothing for home-users. Even if it´s not comparable to the industrial devices it´s quite impressive how well those entry level scanners work nowadays. However regarding the accuracy-claims I am sceptic since they don´t provide any information regarding the test procedure. The only official test procedure for those devices is the VDI/VDE 2634 part 3 performed by an ISO 17025 accrideted lab for this procedure using also calibrated artifacts. And only one calibration costs more than the whole consumer-grade device. To monitor the reliable function of my devices on a regular basis and in non-lab conditions I use a calibrated ball-bar with also calibrated spheres and a length of one meter. In that way I can check the local accuracy by scanning the spheres as well as the volumetric accuracy by scanning from sphere to sphere and measure the distance in an analysis-software. By the way you can also get different values when using different softwares depending on which algorythms they use e.g. to fit the sphere to the scan data. You should also use the raw pointcloud without meshing because also during the meshing process the data can be manipulated by the smoothing algorythm for example.
Since I´m located in Germany - If you are interested we can scan my calibrated ball-bar and spheres with your scanner and see how it performs.
How does it compare to Einstar (besides shining3D more mature software)?
Edit. Also wondering why cheaper Otter has better tracking in NIR mode?
Otter has better NIR optics allowing for wider capturing frame, the scanner thus has more data to work with and has better tracking.
@@rafall1118 Thanks for explanation, weird that they didnt implement same NIR optics on Raptor as it should have blue laser addition without compromise on NIR mode.
the AC shroud would fit here too, I have exactly the same Model and did the foamboard mod to make it a 2-hose. can we have the stl on printables?
Linked it in the description.
@@CNCKitchen thanks a lot
More scanning content please. Would be a fun hobby to scan people and parts then import into fusion 360. Make protective cases and custom add ons
I have a MIRACO... The standalone handheld format is great, but it's better to process on a proper desktop.
And I really need to invest in some ASUB since most of the stuff I scan is usually a NIR nightmare.
It either reflects, absorbs or is transparent to NIR...
Also multi scan and stitching is king!
My tip for standing scanners is that items like pennies, which don't like to reconstruct with their sudden surface transfers (their annoying shapes), scan better in marker mode. If your software does that
ive used aesub spray and cans is so much expensive. ive used lots of gheto solution over the years. usually every scan goes tru lot of post processing anyways so its not a issue
Great video! I have a question about the volumetric accuracy of the Creality Raptor. The site says it’s 0.02mm for 100mm, so I guess for a 1000mm part it would be around 0.2mm, right? I’m thinking of upgrading-currently using a Revopoint POP2, and I’m sure the Raptor is way better for small details. But my main focus is scanning larger parts, like 1 to 2 meters, for reverse engineering.
With the POP2, even using markers, I’ve seen up to 5mm variation in 1-meter parts when I compare two meshes that should be identical. It seems like there’s a tracking issue or something when merging the point cloud.
Has anyone here used the Raptor for scanning bigger parts? How’s the accuracy in practice? The specs look good, but I’m curious about real-world results. Thanks a lot for any help!
I really would like to see the pre deformation feature. It is very useful for engineering parts and I already heard about it when using with injection molding.
Yes! Please make a video on preventing warping of large PETG printed parts! It's not intuitive for me... I would think that it warps while printing and then successive extruded layers printed on a warped printed part would show something resembling a layer shift. However, I discovered no such thing and the finished print was great quality but warped similar to yours. For context I designed and printed an 8kg center console for my car from the radio to the back of the front seats.
I am another vote to see a Fusion360 edit of a scan. I know it’s theoretically possible to import the scanned mesh into Fusion360, then convert to a solid, then modify the critical dimensions, but I can’t find any videos or even reddits that cover this. I wonder things like how much detail is lost and if it’s too much of a process to even consider. Thanks!
Would love to see a comparison to the EINSTAR-Prosumer scanner considering its at least $500 cheaper
I got their original 3D scanner, its good, just cable is proprietary and it broke. Otherwise its decent. My best recommendation for 3D scanning is protect the cable as you are twisting it all around and taking it places to scan things!
I have the ferret pro but my introduction to scanning for printing has not been pleasant mostly due to the difficulties around post processing especially using free software
I appreciate the advice given in the video , thanx Stephan and hello from south africa
Pre deforming files based on a calibration print seems super helpful! Relativity space mentioned they did it for their 3d printed rocket parts, I wonder if they use a similar method to this.
I'd be super interested in ways of working against that deformation - like pre-distort the file before print!
I would really want to see a comparison to Revopoint's Miraco and new Miraco Plus scanners, which do not have blue laser, but boast a really good accuracy and cost is relatively similar (at least for new Miraco Plus).
Highly interested to see the pre-warping work flow!
letz go! I love my Raptor
💪
I wish these were accessible and affordable so bad! the iPhones can scan things with its FaceID but it's really hard messy and inaccurate.
I've heard some people use a DIY mixture of baby powder and something else as a coating to scan? you could try that :O
it'd be cool to combine the two mods to see if you can get more detail.
Again, great video.
Personally, for 3D scanning, nothing beats Dr. Scholl's for the price. To prepare your scan, but at the end you need to wash...
Thanks for the detail as always - I had no idea how these work. And another example of why i need a 3d scanner! I was looking to make a center console for my FJ40 and then "I Like To Make Stuff" posted a video doing it with a scanner... i'm trying to get my AC to not suck... and here is your video! I have the exact AC in your video! Any chance you would be willing to share your 2nd hose adapter?
I'm still using a modified Kinect sensor for 3D scanning (which I don't do that often anymore though), and obviously it will require some cleaning and/or additional modeling. Do like the quality of this one. And despite the fact that I have 5 Creality printer which we're very satisfied with which are 3 heavily modified Ender 3's (even up to the point we use our own custom board for it), and two CR-10-SE's, I do personally feel that around 1500 bucks is "kinda" on the high end for a Creality product to be honest.
It does seem to pick up quite some fine details, but for such prices I rather wait a bit longer until they are (even) more accurate to be honest. However very great video demonstration with lots of importants aspects & tips in regard to 3D scanning 👍🏽
Thank you very much for your tips on this video. I think I will be able to improve my scans
I'd love you see how you pre-deform parts. That could be really useful
Absolutely saving this video for future reference. Loaded with good info!
I can't wait till we get Artec quality scanners at this price point. These are equal to the old top quality scanners from 2014-15 or so. We're almost there!
i was just looking for a 3d scanner and this madlad made a video, thanks
Könntest du mal ausprobieren, was es mit der Stabilität eines Bauteils macht, bei dem bei jeder Schicht Ironing gemacht wird. Gibt's ja eigentlich immer nur auf dem Toplayer, aber hierbei werden die Schicht ja noch einmal verschmolzen quasi. Könnte mir vorstellen das dies zu einer deutlich besseren Lagerhaftung im Bauteil führt. Dauert dann zwar ewig, aber für bestimmte Bauteile evtl. sehr nützlich
You did quite a nice job with the 3D scanner, next you can learn how to use a caliper
I spent $200 on my cr-scan ferret. The raptor is $1500, and the otter is $800. I imagine most of the viewers have a ferret since the pro model costs 50% more and the SE is not that much cheaper. Not to be that guy, but you focus a lot on the laser mode that only the raptor has. Tip 8 and 10 are definitely the most important in my opinion. tip 5 is also pretty good.
One of my favorite prints is the scanned taco bell bag on printables.
I would scan the cover and not the socket of the air conditioner, and then i would just change it to the shape i want, knowing that it would already fit inside. Correct me if i'm wrong
I want one so bad. Im not super talented in 3d design but i can make the things i want to print lots of by hand first. This would be amazing for making tileable terrain for dnd for me.
This is the first 3d scanner i might buy because every previous consumer scanner looked like total shit. This one looks acceptable while slightly expensive it still seems worth it. Im gonna order one
I grabbed ferret - the cheapest one. It's good enough while decent price of ~220 euros for someone who isn't sponsored.
Is it dual mode?
Note that the Blue light will be absorbed by red surfaces, which can affect scan quality. Objects with hues of red are good candidates for masking prior to scanning
Nice video and thanks for the Vespa scans ;)
Stick some magnets in your 3d printed markers then place anywhere metallic and you can reuse. You could also stick in Blutac so you can stick your markers to plastic.
Would IR LED lights added to a scan area increase the amount of reflected light the scan could pick up?
I don't think I'd tell people that I'd scanned and 3d printed my pickle 😄
Chciałem kupić ale pojawiła się tokarka CNC na terofit i na razie wybrałem tokarkę. Na TH-cam w moi jeżyku niema prawi nic o nim. jedynie jeden użytkownik miał problem z uruchomieniem na dobrym komputerze. Wysłali mu kabel ale nadal nie pomagało, chciał oddać lub wymienić raptora ale odmówili Konic końcu udało się uruchomić na innym komputerze ale niepokojące było podejście wsparcia. Tak czy inaczej pewnie kiedyś go kupię bo mam coraz więcej projektów gdzie by się przydał. Dzięki za film i ciekawe porady i pokaz możliwości :)
Czasami na OLX chodzą tanio Raptory i Einstary. Trzeba tylko wyczekiwać odpowiedniego momentu ;>
A co do wsparcia to niestety z chińczolami tak jest, ale akurat w moim przypadku Shining3D był bardzo pomocny i nawet skompilowali mi specjalną wersję Einstar pod mój komputer.
I bought the scanner a month ago and still haven't got hold of it. You could make a video of how to use it but more step by step. Thank you very much
Okay. Now it comes all together. He scanned his pickle and printed it in the TPE video
🤐
@@CNCKitchen ;)
Oof, I don't even have that much into a single one of my printers and 4 of my printers combined don't even cost that.
I use cheap dry shampoo, it doesn't evaporate like the 3D Scanning spray, but it's a lot cheaper with similar results.
Pr-Tip- paint the clay Black or tape it black where it doesn't interact with your part - so you don't have to cut it out.