When I bought my homebuilt one of the selling points for me was that every single wire was labeled like this on both ends. What a huge help for ongoing servicing.
Having used both, there is the same amount of work required for both. I noticed in your demo of the self adhesive, you already had the adhesive covers peeled back to facilitate easy removal. But in practice, the adhesive strip covers are a pain to remove, and some tear easily. I finally went to a military surplus sale and bought a wire marker that marks the wire every 12" to 24". It is what is used on military aircraft and allows you to identify a wire anywhere on the airplane.
I think the backing is in two parts, with a longitudinal split, to facilitate removal. You bend the printed label along its length so that the face is concave and that causes the backing to split and lift slightly so that you can easily get under the corners and peel off each half.
glad you made this video. I have this exact same label maker and was frustrated the damn stickers won't stay on. now I know to get the industrial stuff.
Nice video, thanks for sharing. I've seen many industrial applications in which the tubing is not shrunk around the wire. That way, if the wire ever needs replaced, cut, or have a new end installed, the label can be reused or slid into a new position on the wire.
Would you believe this?? I had purchased a similar kind of label printer from Brothers almost 8-10 years back. I never knew or even used my brain to check that it can be used for naming the wires as well. All this, while I just used it to print few indications on my control panels. Today, when I thought we should have a printer to print sleeves for wires, I got to know that we can use the same printer which I already have. And trust me, all this while, I paid several times to get those sleeves from someone, specifically for our export orders. I would have utilized it much efficiently if, I would have landed up at your video much earlier. Anyway "better late than never". Thanks a lot for this video.
Thanks for posting this. It has been a huge help. I actually have a KROY 3100 series label printer but the cheapest heat shrink label cartridge I can find is about €50 plus tax and is only 110 inches long. That machine wastes 1" at both ends of every print so you can imagine the percentage of wasted material involved. Basically, you have to print as many labels as you can in one long text string in order not to waste so much material. The Dymo header and footer are much shorter, so less wastage, and the equipment and stock are much cheaper. Plus, there are compatible stocks available. I can get a printer plus a variety of flat stock sizes (I no longer use heat shrink tube thanks to your advice) for the price of one KROY cartridge.
Good morning Sir , really it's very interesting to see that , thanks a lot for this important information . I'm maintenance helicopter and airframe repair
I would use a hybrid method, use the flat stick on labels, with a clear heat shrink over it to protect the ink. Too many solvents will take off the ink otherwise, and the adhesive only may peel off with time.
Even though the video says that the self-adhesive is better than shrink tubing tape, it’s very common for the self-adhesive labels to peel off over time. For permanent wire labeling, be sure to use shrink tubing and you’ll be much happier with the product.
Nice idea, i use this idea many years ago and today, i use also bigger label's and wrap them around the cable that i can glue the back from the label end to the beginning from the label for more information on the label or bigger letters. ;-) i use a brother(the android software is often a pain in the ass to use, better useing the Windows software on pc) label printer with aftermarket labels that are much cheap and they are great but i have to wait week's that they arrive.
Is this solution actually permanent? I'm skeptical. I feel the self-adhesive labels are inevitably going to begin coming off, probably sooner than later.
I see why you like flat over shrink tubing. My issue with the flat labeling is I find it more difficult to apply especially on small gauge wires. After market HEAT SHRINK tubing is available on eBay and other places for not too much money. Five unshrunk widths from 1/4" (6mm) to 3/4" (19mm) wide. Dymo part numbers 18051 to 18057.
I realize this is a video that’s a few years old but I am having some difficulty locating the labels for the 160. Can you tell me which one I need to order and where you got them?
Very nice video thank you for taking the time. One question I have is the the Dymo 160 is not listed to be used with the "IND" 0nly the 1000 and up series. In your video you are using a different maching to make the labels not the 160. So has anyone used the 160 successfully with the 160?
You are correct - not a "valid" combination. However, I have been using this machine successfully with those labels so far. So inexpensive, I will take the risk!
1. DYMO does not list the DYMO LabelManager 160 Handheld Label Maker as compatible with the IND Vinyl Labels. However, I did notice that the compatible models use the D1 cartridge as does the 160. So are you certifying that labels such as the IND Vinyl Labels 1/2" SKU: 18444 work fine in the 160? 2. My second concern is the labels falling off. Some of the reviews on Amazon indicate that they fall off in time and additionally that the glue does not work for very long when they have to stick to itself. If that can be solved by using these IND Vinyl Labels, I'm in. BTW: I've gotten hooked on your other videos. I was heavy into technology when I was very young, got into military aircraft maintenance, became a supervisor, bought my own plane, was working on a Long EZ, they liked me and sent me to the academy on an age waiver, which I did and flew after that. I have been out of it for quite a while. I'm amazed by your EFIS video that I don't need to be a human calculator to fly anymore. I realize that may not be certified equipment but it must be that even that is a lot cheaper than when I was flying. You may talk me back into it. LOL!
We are not certifying anything! Just sharing our experience. The key, as pointed out in the video, is to be sure to use the IND labels for the best adhesion.
If you're saying your experience is it works with the 160, that's certifying it in my book. LOL! The reason I asked is I noticed you were using a Rhino to print the tubing label with, not a 160. While researching models on the compatibility list for the Rhino IND Vinyl Labels, one on the list that now has my attention is the DYMO LabelManager 280 Rechargeable Hand-Held. The form factor is the same as the 160 except you get a rechargeable battery, a charger, a 2-line LED screen instead of 1, a USB cord, can store frequently used labels for recall, software for your PC enables barcodes and special graphics, and it sells for $16.80 on Amazon Prime, which is only $3.00 more than the 160. I plan to buy that one. They also make a 420P for $70 which does everything the 280 does plus has a 4-line backlit display, does barcodes natively, you can make up your own logos and symbols and store them, and print labels up to 3/4" wide. I own an IT company and as late as yesterday, we were upgrading one of our own installations and wasting lots of time trying to remember what we connected where and why, and Googling wiring label makers is how I ended up here. LOL! From my research, I didn't feel that I could trust what the company representatives say. Here is a conversation about the Vinyl labels: "Dymo 18443 3/8" Vinyl tape Rhino Labels - White Thank you for choosing Dymo. Our goal is to provide our customers with the highest quality and service. The label type can be used for printing from the device. However it is not recommended. This is due to the device not being able to heat to the higher temperature that the Rhino devices can for printing this label type. Which can cause issues with legibility and misprinting of labels with labels being printed from the incorrect device." If you go to their web site and check compatibility of that vinyl label, the 280 is on the compatibility list. As much as the 160 is similar to the 280, my guess is the reason it is not on the list is because they simply didn't add it. Here is a conversation about the heat shrink labels: "Thank you for your interest in our products. The Rhino IND labels are specifically designed for the Rhino printers. They are made from a thicker material, which can dull the blade of other handheld Dymo printers. The Rhino blade has been designed to be able to handle the IND labels." That heat shrink tubing looks pretty thin to me in your video. What I find interesting is of the Rhino line, only the 6000 can talk to a computer. My guess is they may be heavier duty and do larger labels, but most seem like older technology as well. Thanks tons for all of your help!
Hello. Could you please check how good the lable holds. I noticed that Dymo is not recommending this compbination because "The label type can be used for printing from the device. However it is not recommended. This is due to the device not being able to heat to the higher temperature that the Rhino devices can for printing this label type. Which can cause issues with legibility and misprinting of labels with labels being printed from the incorrect device." I think they just want to sell more Rhino devices as they are much more expensive, but what if they are telling the truth?
I used my Dymo label maker to do the same thing, unfortunately the adhesive doesn’t last. Stayed together for about a week, now they are falling off. Didn’t know they made heat shrink labels. Seems a bit excessive to use a heat gun for a label.
Yeah, same problem. The only way they will stay together is to put the label on across the wire, and not around it the length of the label. I may try the tubular heat shrink. sounds good.
I have a Brother label maker and they also take heat shrink tube cartridges so that's not unique to the Dymo label makers. The challenge I'm having is finding a size that will fit over TRS/TR/XLR audio cables and then shrink small enough to fit the wire. The combination I need has to fit over 12mm (.47") and then shrink down to 5mm. That means a 3:1 shrinkage ration and most shrink tubes only do 2:1.
Labeling is a save time (and some times save lifes) process for the future, in fact, need to much time in the present to make, but if you drop a bunch of cables without label you will want to cut your balls by the frustration.
Do not ever use the stick-on labels as presented in this video. They will fall off. If you have to use stick-on labels use wrap-around labels as instructed by DYMO. The best is to use heat shrink tube.
Doesn't look as if the heat shrink works with the 160. Best check before committing. Brother do an electricians printer that is much cheaper than the dymo rhino printers that do print on their heat shrink,
Yes - one idea -use the heat shrink and shrink as much as possible - altho it wont be perfectly tight, it will be legible and cannot fall off! Of course, put on before terminating the wire
You could use the sheets of labels at office supply stores where they are about one inch wide and 2 or 3 inches long 2/3 clear and 1/3 white. Fold them over the small wires. If exposed to water, make sure your printer is able to use waterproof ink or wrap the clear over the printer part.
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When I bought my homebuilt one of the selling points for me was that every single wire was labeled like this on both ends. What a huge help for ongoing servicing.
Having used both, there is the same amount of work required for both. I noticed in your demo of the self adhesive, you already had the adhesive covers peeled back to facilitate easy removal. But in practice, the adhesive strip covers are a pain to remove, and some tear easily. I finally went to a military surplus sale and bought a wire marker that marks the wire every 12" to 24". It is what is used on military aircraft and allows you to identify a wire anywhere on the airplane.
What is the device called? I don't readily see anything online....
I think the backing is in two parts, with a longitudinal split, to facilitate removal. You bend the printed label along its length so that the face is concave and that causes the backing to split and lift slightly so that you can easily get under the corners and peel off each half.
glad you made this video. I have this exact same label maker and was frustrated the damn stickers won't stay on. now I know to get the industrial stuff.
Nice video, thanks for sharing. I've seen many industrial applications in which the tubing is not shrunk around the wire. That way, if the wire ever needs replaced, cut, or have a new end installed, the label can be reused or slid into a new position on the wire.
Would you believe this?? I had purchased a similar kind of label printer from Brothers almost 8-10 years back. I never knew or even used my brain to check that it can be used for naming the wires as well. All this, while I just used it to print few indications on my control panels. Today, when I thought we should have a printer to print sleeves for wires, I got to know that we can use the same printer which I already have. And trust me, all this while, I paid several times to get those sleeves from someone, specifically for our export orders. I would have utilized it much efficiently if, I would have landed up at your video much earlier. Anyway "better late than never". Thanks a lot for this video.
You guys are the BEST. Thanks for creating all this content to help keep our projects moving.
Thanks for posting this. It has been a huge help. I actually have a KROY 3100 series label printer but the cheapest heat shrink label cartridge I can find is about €50 plus tax and is only 110 inches long. That machine wastes 1" at both ends of every print so you can imagine the percentage of wasted material involved. Basically, you have to print as many labels as you can in one long text string in order not to waste so much material. The Dymo header and footer are much shorter, so less wastage, and the equipment and stock are much cheaper. Plus, there are compatible stocks available. I can get a printer plus a variety of flat stock sizes (I no longer use heat shrink tube thanks to your advice) for the price of one KROY cartridge.
Excellent! Huge fan of your videos as I'm deep into my build and these are super timely for me. Thanks!
Great tip. It makes future problem solving a lot easier.
Good morning Sir , really it's very interesting to see that , thanks a lot for this important information .
I'm maintenance helicopter and airframe repair
My cheapest alternative to labeling is printing labels on plain paper and slipping it under clear heat shrink.
That depends on how you value your time :)
Because you can just use cheap replacement labels instead of the highway robbery price original ones.
The off brand dyno heat shrink and vinyl is super cheap. The vinyl runs about $0.40 / ft
I would use a hybrid method, use the flat stick on labels, with a clear heat shrink over it to protect the ink.
Too many solvents will take off the ink otherwise, and the adhesive only may peel off with time.
Even though the video says that the self-adhesive is better than shrink tubing tape, it’s very common for the self-adhesive labels to peel off over time. For permanent wire labeling, be sure to use shrink tubing and you’ll be much happier with the product.
This video was really helpful! Thank you for making it
Great video. Thank you for the information. I’ve just ordered some of the Industrial Labels. :-)
Thanks for the tip. By the way that $10 label maker is now $46 on Amazon as of November 23rd, 2022.
TY, just what i needed.
thanks
Nice idea, i use this idea many years ago and today, i use also bigger label's and wrap them around the cable that i can glue the back from the label end to the beginning from the label for more information on the label or bigger letters. ;-) i use a brother(the android software is often a pain in the ass to use, better useing the Windows software on pc) label printer with aftermarket labels that are much cheap and they are great but i have to wait week's that they arrive.
We use the Tech Cable labels wrap around much better, + they give out free samples to test.
Is this solution actually permanent? I'm skeptical. I feel the self-adhesive labels are inevitably going to begin coming off, probably sooner than later.
Many comments on Amazon saying that the 18443 IND doesn’t works with the Dymo 160?? Any thoughts?
I have that label maker and didn’t even know it could do heat shrink labels or that industrial labels where a thing
Great tip!!
Excellent , thanks for sharing sir.
Thank you!
I see why you like flat over shrink tubing. My issue with the flat labeling is I find it more difficult to apply especially on small gauge wires. After market HEAT SHRINK tubing is available on eBay and other places for not too much money. Five unshrunk widths from 1/4" (6mm) to 3/4" (19mm) wide. Dymo part numbers 18051 to 18057.
Nice price, useful tool.
I found that the ink on the heat shrink rubs off if you handle it a lot.
This Dymo laber maker is great, but I am worried that the writings will fade over time. Does anyone knows if this will actually happen?
Getting ready to rewire my '68 Mustang, this will work perfectly. Now where did I put my label maker?
Thank you! Have you tried the industrial tape for Ethernet cables? Thanks
I realize this is a video that’s a few years old but I am having some difficulty locating the labels for the 160. Can you tell me which one I need to order and where you got them?
Very nice video thank you for taking the time.
One question I have is the the Dymo 160 is not listed to be used with the "IND" 0nly the 1000 and up series. In your video you are using a different maching to make the labels not the 160. So has anyone used the 160 successfully with the 160?
You are correct - not a "valid" combination. However, I have been using this machine successfully with those labels so far. So inexpensive, I will take the risk!
will the dymo 160 print heat shrink labels of 3/8" or even 1/2"
anyone tested those?
1. DYMO does not list the DYMO LabelManager 160 Handheld Label Maker as compatible with the IND Vinyl Labels. However, I did notice that the compatible models use the D1 cartridge as does the 160. So are you certifying that labels such as the IND Vinyl Labels 1/2"
SKU: 18444 work fine in the 160?
2. My second concern is the labels falling off. Some of the reviews on Amazon indicate that they fall off in time and additionally that the glue does not work for very long when they have to stick to itself. If that can be solved by using these IND Vinyl Labels, I'm in.
BTW: I've gotten hooked on your other videos. I was heavy into technology when I was very young, got into military aircraft maintenance, became a supervisor, bought my own plane, was working on a Long EZ, they liked me and sent me to the academy on an age waiver, which I did and flew after that. I have been out of it for quite a while. I'm amazed by your EFIS video that I don't need to be a human calculator to fly anymore. I realize that may not be certified equipment but it must be that even that is a lot cheaper than when I was flying. You may talk me back into it. LOL!
We are not certifying anything! Just sharing our experience. The key, as pointed out in the video, is to be sure to use the IND labels for the best adhesion.
If you're saying your experience is it works with the 160, that's certifying it in my book. LOL! The reason I asked is I noticed you were using a Rhino to print the tubing label with, not a 160.
While researching models on the compatibility list for the Rhino IND Vinyl Labels, one on the list that now has my attention is the DYMO LabelManager 280 Rechargeable Hand-Held. The form factor is the same as the 160 except you get a rechargeable battery, a charger, a 2-line LED screen instead of 1, a USB cord, can store frequently used labels for recall, software for your PC enables barcodes and special graphics, and it sells for $16.80 on Amazon Prime, which is only $3.00 more than the 160. I plan to buy that one.
They also make a 420P for $70 which does everything the 280 does plus
has a 4-line backlit display, does barcodes natively, you can make up
your own logos and symbols and store them, and print labels up to 3/4"
wide.
I own an IT company and as late as yesterday, we were upgrading one of
our own installations and wasting lots of time trying to remember what
we connected where and why, and Googling wiring label makers is how I
ended up here. LOL!
From my research, I didn't feel that I could trust what the company representatives say.
Here is a conversation about the Vinyl labels:
"Dymo 18443 3/8" Vinyl tape Rhino Labels - White
Thank you for choosing Dymo. Our goal is to provide our customers with the highest quality and service. The label type can be used for printing from the device. However it is not recommended. This is due to the device not being able to heat to the higher temperature that the Rhino devices can for printing this label type. Which can cause issues with legibility and misprinting of labels with labels being printed from the incorrect device."
If you go to their web site and check compatibility of that vinyl label, the 280 is on the compatibility list. As much as the 160 is similar to the 280, my guess is the reason it is not on the list is because they simply didn't add it.
Here is a conversation about the heat shrink labels:
"Thank you for your interest in our products.
The Rhino IND labels are specifically designed for the Rhino printers. They are made from a thicker material, which can dull the blade of other handheld Dymo printers. The Rhino blade has been designed to be able to handle the IND labels."
That heat shrink tubing looks pretty thin to me in your video.
What I find interesting is of the Rhino line, only the 6000 can talk to a computer. My guess is they may be heavier duty and do larger labels, but most seem like older technology as well.
Thanks tons for all of your help!
What label paper is that? The one that prints like a tube that you can slip around wires. I have a DYMO too, but the label paper I have is flat.
Hello. Could you please check how good the lable holds. I noticed that Dymo is not recommending this compbination because "The label type can be used for printing from the device. However it is not recommended. This is due to the device not being able to heat to the higher temperature that the Rhino devices can for printing this label type. Which can cause issues with legibility and misprinting of labels with labels being printed from the incorrect device."
I think they just want to sell more Rhino devices as they are much more expensive, but what if they are telling the truth?
I used my Dymo label maker to do the same thing, unfortunately the adhesive doesn’t last. Stayed together for about a week, now they are falling off. Didn’t know they made heat shrink labels. Seems a bit excessive to use a heat gun for a label.
Yeah, same problem. The only way they will stay together is to put the label on across the wire, and not around it the length of the label. I may try the tubular heat shrink. sounds good.
I generally solder my terminal ends and apply a heat shrink over that joint, so the heat gun isn't a big deal.
@@chuckbasics8972 or, apply the adhesive label, then put clear heat-shrink over it to lock it in place and protect the ink from rubbing off :-)
Is it possible to use the heat shrink cartridges in cheap non-rhino dymo printers? The cartridge looks the same but i'm not sure if it will work.
I have a Brother label maker and they also take heat shrink tube cartridges so that's not unique to the Dymo label makers. The challenge I'm having is finding a size that will fit over TRS/TR/XLR audio cables and then shrink small enough to fit the wire. The combination I need has to fit over 12mm (.47") and then shrink down to 5mm. That means a 3:1 shrinkage ration and most shrink tubes only do 2:1.
Awesome work on all your videos.... make me a tan color panel Cessna 150 and I'll buy it
Labeling is a save time (and some times save lifes) process for the future, in fact, need to much time in the present to make, but if you drop a bunch of cables without label you will want to cut your balls by the frustration.
Do not ever use the stick-on labels as presented in this video. They will fall off. If you have to use stick-on labels use wrap-around labels as instructed by DYMO.
The best is to use heat shrink tube.
Will the 18443 ind labels work in the 160 labelmaker ?
GRACIAS ME FUE MUY UTIL TU VIDEO
Doesn't look as if the heat shrink works with the 160. Best check before committing.
Brother do an electricians printer that is much cheaper than the dymo rhino printers that do print on their heat shrink,
Any ideas for 20 or 22 gauge wire?
Yes - one idea -use the heat shrink and shrink as much as possible - altho it wont be perfectly tight, it will be legible and cannot fall off! Of course, put on before terminating the wire
Thanks
There are also smaller shrink tubes with 6mm (1/4") These work perfectly on 20 / 22AWG
You could use the sheets of labels at office supply stores where they are about one inch wide and 2 or 3 inches long 2/3 clear and 1/3 white. Fold them over the small wires. If exposed to water, make sure your printer is able to use waterproof ink or wrap the clear over the printer part.
Gee, you sound like David Lynch.