I have been sewing since I was a 5th grader. I am 76 years old. Patterns and fabrics have gotten so expensive that I don't make many of my own clothes anymore. However, I do hang on to my old patterns.There isn't any reason for me to buy new commercial patterns at the full price. The old patterns are easier to use; and, fashion repeats itself.
Check your local extension office - every county in the USA has one. They may have fabric sales where they sell donated fabrics. If so, the buys are fantastic!
@@laurelhoffmann1594 I'm sorry; but, our Extension Service has sent out requests for us to donate fabric for making baby quilts. I live in Eastern Kentucky.
I have over 30 years of experience making my own clothing. Self taught starting with 4 H project in 4th grade. I also have done some sewing for others. Then an over 30 year break. I started thrifting sewing fabric for about 2 years. I have some beautiful and expensive fabrics. Then patterns. Oh mercy. Ive tried every thing from 22 to 32. Ive actually wore 1 blouse , came home, folded it and put it back in my projects. My issue is my bidy size. 48 55 69. But normal looking curves. I am finishing a dress by a new McCalls pattern...I hate it . HATE . OUR Thanksgiving conversation was about this. I told my son " I dont think this was an intentional pattern. It appears to have been a total accident. They messed together fabric and lots of elastic. And then kinda copied this accidental garment. I hate they make money on this wreck. I have NEVER before had this issue . There are no hints, pointers, pictures, instructions as to how to put the midriff together with th e bodice and skirt. What a flipping joke. And they say to fully line the midriff. Oh I am sorry to unload. I hope to get enough confidence to start my own patterns. JUST FOR ME. THANKS FOR THE INFO. e
I've been sewing in one form or another for 50+ years and clothing has always been troublesome for me. Everything you said makes perfect sense...new subscriber here. *makes another pot of coffee to settle in for a Laurel Hoffmann video viewing marathon*
Ongoing self taught sewist here, and my mind is having continuous seismic events while watching this… I have struggles with pattern sewing since I began sewing and therefore have not used patterns much thinking I was “stupid” because I couldn’t grasp it. It’s such a relief to know my hunch was not wrong! AND… not cutting on the fold-of course! Makes so much sense! You have yourself a new avid follower! 🎉
I felt exactly the same as you. I had no option but to go to a thrift store and looked for a dress that fitted nicely on the bodice and ripped it apart and copied it. Later, I learned how to daft patterns myself.
i have trouble with cutting on the fold as well, the sides always end up having different dimensions. i thought i was the problem, made me hate the cutting process because of how slow i'm getting to try to get it right every time :)
@@MRSDAVID1 It's NOT your fault! Unfortunately too many of us assume that it's all our fault when our sewing goes wrong. The problem is: good information just isn't out there.
I’m a Family and Consumer Sciences teacher and I teach kids from 8-18 to sew!! I make sure they understand how the machine works and can keep it running!! My club sponsors an after school program we call the sewing club and we sew Tuesdays and Thursdays from 3:30-5:00. Boys and Girls love sewing and we do it for free!
My grandmother, who passed last year in her sleep aged 95, had an identical reaction to seeing someone cutting out on the fold, only she was welding a roll of tracing paper at the time and yelled for longer about necklines being out of shape. Grandma had a thing for perfect necklines and under stitching because she said that would always be the thing other women looked at first.
I teach sewing, and the biggest group of students that come to me are those who follow patterns in tears thinking their rubbish sewers. Thing is they think theyve done something sewing wrong, when it doesnt fit!!! Thankyou - i can refer your videos to them now too! Thankyou
I started with pattern making because in this part of the world (South East Asia) there aren't any commercial patterns available, every home sewer know how to draft pattern. Then my curiosity lead me to purchase western premade patterns. Those details are rubbish, people who obediently followed patterns don't "know how to sew" at all.
I find that older patterns have better “tailoring”, if I can call it that. The sewing details are typically better, especially finishing techniques. So I pick up vintage patterns whenever I can. I was required to take Home arc in high school, in the late 1960’s. I followed that by taking sewing in 4H, which was taught by a professional seamstress. I still make a lot of my clothes, mainly because I hate fast fashion. You are correct in everything you said. Count me as a new subscriber.
@ I consider vintage patterns to be anything older than 1970. The period before 1965 was especially rich in quality patterns. Great sewing details as compared to after pattern companies made things simpler to attract new sewers. You give up so much quality when you do that and the result is that newer sewers don’t learn the difference. Now, it is true that what I tend to call “indie” pattern companies (mistakenly, no doubt) do have a different quality level than the big 4 or 5. But I would rather buy a pattern for a single size, with quality garment details, than have the ability to have multiple sizes in one envelope and get confused in cutting it out or not having room on the paper for details. A golden age in patterns for me is around 1960. For example, vests/waistcoat patterns had real welt pockets. Not fake pockets. And shirts often had gussets to relieve seam stress. And, women’s’ clothes that had pockets had real pockets that were useful. Long seams like on shirt sides were generally flat-felled, not single stitch and either pinked or zig-zagged. In decades past, most people had less clothes but they were often better quality. Because better quality lasted longer. I do have some lovely 1930’s and 40’s patterns, but you have to really be into retro to wear them. You can find those in antique or vintage shops.
I can sew anything but clothes following a store bought pattern. I was a seamstress for a design firm and made items for the home. I quilt some, no expert. But heavens, I about fainted when I saw the price of patterns about a month ago. I just wanted a simple skirt pattern. By the time I bought it and some good material and my time, I might could have bought a fairly nice clothing item. So i went to TH-cam and found a way to do it without a pattern. I made 3 for the fall and winter. Fits me perfect. I just found your channel so I have a lot of videos to watch. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You're welcome. You deserve to have this information. There are many good reasons why this information hasn't been available. It really isn't anyone's fault. I've been fortunate to have the good luck to be able to write my books and then have a son who is very interested in making videos and working with me. I also have a very supportive husband. I can't believe I've been so fortunate.
I use Burda magazine patterns. Most of them are pretty basic. They are sized more for German girls, bustier and taller. Regular sizes have B cup and plus sizes have C cups. Vogue and those others use A cup. I use Burda Plus magazine patterns They are also multi sized. Each magazine has about a dozen patterns, multi-sized for about $10-$12. The instructions are minimal, so you need to have the old vogue book that tells you how to do everything or can figure out stuff with just a little help.
@@superstarcat7654 Here in the USA the big four home-sewing pattern companies - Vogue, Butterick, Simplicity, and MCalls, - mail order, and some manufacturers use the Standard Size grade rule, developed here in the USA. Their patterns are drafted to a B cup, which is a circumference four inches larger than the chest size measured under the bust, although none of that is stated on the pattern envelopes. Burda is almost certainly using a different grade rule.
@@superstarcat7654 I don't think the person you spoke to at Vogue knew. When one measures patterns drafted here in the USA (Butterick, Vogue, Simplicity, and McCalls) in 1980s or any year, it's a B cup. The pattern's bust measurement is 4 inches more than the chest measurement in any of these the big four home-sewing patterns as they all draft to Standard Size grade rule, developed by the USA government and used extensively here in the USA - mail order and some manufacturers. If when shopping you are measured for a bra, the shop clerk measures your chest under the bust, she then adds five inches to give the C cup measurement. She then measures your bust to determine your cup size. If your bust measures 4 inches more than your chest size, you wear a B cup.
Thanks! Your comment sounds good to me! I would have said the same if I could have had this information when I was young. I want YOU and others like you to have it. Thanks again!
I am 73 and I've been sewing since my first Home-Ec class in 1963 when I was taught to use a treadle and McCall or Simplicity patterns! We were taught to make a muslin garment first and correct the issues before cutting our fashion fabric. How much better to correct on paper prior to cutting - and such a great, helpful tip to use the "bone measurement" rather than the "bust measurement". I am planning to purchase your books asap! THANK YOU for making these free tutorials!
Thank you! All of a sudden, after 40 years of writing and testing, everyone is interested! Racing to keep up. Thanks for the compliments! It's you, and people like you for whom I write.
Thank you for breaking the myth that the pattern is 'gospel'. Alll these years of frustration and failure, and it most likely was a junk pattern making the mess. I am encouraged to try again!
First I thought that I like having multiple sizes in one pattern. What is she complaining about. But I continued watching and I've learned so much in just one video. Thank you very much! Lots of greetings from Germany
Glad to hear from you. Some like multi-sized patterns. I'm never sure about them, but two or three sizes are enough in one pattern. These days I go to the store, find something I like, take it out on my charge, take off the pattern, and return the purchase. Industrial patterns are so much easier to use than the home-sewing patterns. The home-sewing patterns tend to be out of date, both in procedures and in style.
Laurel, you are an absolute delight. I appreciate all this information you're imparting to those of us out here just trying to sew clothes we like. Thank you!!
My mom was taught in Europe to operate an atelier. She came to North America and worked in a high end Toronto exclusive shop to alter to fit. The other worker had no idea. Then when she was pregnant she was dismissed as per Simpson’s policy. At home she was brought Vogue patterns and expensive foreign materials and was able to cut them properly to make additional pieces for ensembles and said Vogue instructions were the worst. Being an expert she couldn’t explain to teach me (“It’s obvious!”). But watching her showed how intuitively she handled the fabric to cut and fit for every unique figure in a more complementary design than the tissue showed. Fittings were amazing. Mom’s old now and I made her a dressing gown set for Harry’s Royal Wedding. She loved my gift.
It sounds as though your mother was very talented. Tell me, did you have a wardrobe to die for? I always saw my children as dolls to dress. They had their brother/sister train outfits, zoo outfits, etc. When Halloween came they had their choice of costumes. But they never could understand why their teachers guessed them first when they went to school in their costumes on Halloween. ;-))
😂 love your direct way of talking to us. I'm 82, left school 14 went to the sewing industry. Retired only last year teaching a small group of people men and women. Tell young ones the skills I learned in industry. They don't learn this in home tech at school. Thank you.
They dont even learn it at fashion design school. I did a course with a tailor must be your age now. And it was full of srudents who had spent 4 years at university and had not once picked up a needle and thréad let alone used a machine! My mom had taught me to make patterns on newspaper from magazine patterns which are just on an a 4 page and you have to copy them out yourself from the small pattern picture. The tailoe taught me how to make basic block and then make a pattern and change it on paper to how you want it. I have my great grandmothers wilcocks and Gibb machine and my grandmother and great grandmother both made lace. I have a green silk edwardian dress from 1910s or 20s but older style with the high waist and floppy front. It is in peices not put together she must not have finished it. Id love to finish it one day but need a tiny form for it because nó human adult would fit into any of the old clothes they were all very thin! Their waist is the sixe of my thigh 21 inches! And up to the 1970s i have clothes my family have made ..all so much better made than anything i have done.
You cut the scrap right out with your teaching technique! I'm looking forward to subsequent vids from you. Re: Vogue Patterns. Self-taught sewist in 50's. My sewing improved when I discovered Vogue. Many pages of instruction helped me. I have my old Vogue patterns still but I'm so sad they aren't available. It seems YOU are the replacement! Pleased to meet you!
Thanks for sharing. Lessons learned..don’t cut on fold, reduce seam sizes. . I will look for yellow tracing paper. This summer I finally made a t shirt sloper that actually fits. I will watch your other videos to improve my skills. I do like multi sized patterns. Pear shape bodies are not all one size…. And many patterns include tops and bottoms. And I only buy patterns at Joann sales. I would love to have a top sloper, and a pants one and a skirt one. For me a great compliment I received this summer was.. your dress is gorgeous..where did you buy it. I don’t save money with home sewing..but it is a better fit and better fabric, and it is rewarding. I subscribed.
I make my clothes - ALL of them that you see on my videos. I can't afford to buy what I can make. :-)) I buy clothes for when I'm at home so as to save the clothes I make for when I go out.
In the 90s I attended a Sandra Bettina sewing workshop and learned the single most valuable thing that made my sewing look store-bought: bias-cut sewing! The pattern companies sewed samples that way, but left cutting instructions that would save money, but would look homemade, and you would wonder why your sewing efforts looked homemade!!!!
My experience with editors is that too many of them have never worked in industry. Home sewing procedures went out of date 100 years ago. During the First and Second World Wars the USA apparel industry sent orders out to small USA manufacturing concerns who were making other products using low-level engineering procedures. They developed the apparel manufacturing methods now used globally, even in the Paris houses. But because of line-assembly, few, even in the apparel industry understand how the whole system works. No one is trying to keep this a secret. It's just the way it is. I had wonderful mentors when I worked in industry. I believe this information should be available to everyone who wants to learn it.
I hear your sister! I started sewing at nine years old. I am now 65 years old. I am very curvy however I was never taught how to design a garment for myself. I followed the big four pattern makers and I didn’t learn anything about how to, so dart, or insert a zipper. I love your videos because you are teaching me something. I have needed to learn how to do. I love to make garments. I own over 200 Vogue patterns. Designer patterns. I have invested quite a bit of my income in these patterns. But they do not fit my curvy body! You are the first professional expert industry sewist (?) that I connect with. Thank you times 10 to the sixth. I’m sure you offer courses your books. I will be investing in you and the knowledge that you share. Peace be with you, my sister.
CAD software absolutely can grade notches correctly. It requires that the CAD users correctly enter the grade rules to the correct points. Absolute in agree with you on the seam allowance widths and the crazy instructions.
It's pretty awesome to learn so many things in just 28 minutes. Lol. As someone new to sewing, I have seen the patterns as infallible and I always assumed that any problem that arose was my inexperience. I have wasted SO much fabric trying to cut per pattern fold over instructions. Also, parchment paper from the grocery store works as well. 😊
The benefit of tracing paper is that you can draft on one side, then turn it over and correct the previous drafting. Then turn it back over and erase the original drafting. I do it all the time. Think I never make mistakes? PLEASE............. And just in case you are wondering, I have my books open when I sew and I turn the pages as I work through the project(s). I don't remember all this stuff. In fact, when I am using my books it is hard for me to realize that I actually wrote the stuff. It always seems as if someone else wrote an diagrammed it.
I started making my own clothes when I was 9. All the women in my family could make clothes. This continued through my teens and I had the most brilliant outfits made from discarded velvet curtains and so on… I also discovered a book by Margarita Golbourn on pattern cutting and grading. I made my own block and this was a game changer! Everyone should learn this skill at school!
Just laughed out loud. I am currently studying costuming because I wanted to learn how to sew things properly. My teachers share your displeasure of cutting on the fold. Learning how easy it is to pivot darts is almost maddening. I eagerly look forward to learning pattern grading next semester, now also watching and reading more of your content. Thank you for taking the time to share. 😊
I am a self-taught sewer, mostly sticking to quilting or non-clothing items. I have tried clothing before, but found fitting patterns so disheartening (especially being a larger size, and needing more adjustments to fit) because everything looked awful on me when I made it. I have often wished for an older sewing mentor to teach me what they know, and to teach me the things that patterns won't! Your videos feel very much like this to me, and I'm so very grateful for it!
Thank you. I just finished fitting a student with a figure that I think is much like yours. I never fit anyone in the past like I did her. Everyone is different. Fit is complicated. Not surprising that you have been discouraged in the past.
I wish i had seen and heard you years ago. I have sewn all my life and struggled. My first dress was a green gingham - which i unpicked many times while stitching …. I was struggling with the zip when my Aunt popped in to visit - she had her own Dress Shop - she saw what i was doing - well she floored me as I remember she just put the zip on the fabric and stitched no problem - perfect job. Thus was all of 62 years ago. Thank you for your video 🌻 I’m watching from South Africa
Thank you so much! Hello to South Africa from Philadelphia! I live in Oreland, a little big town just northwest of Philadelphia, but I think of Philadelphia as home.
I have sewn on and off for about 30 years. I don’t enjoy garment sewing because I don’t know what I am doing! And then there’s the fit! Drives me crazy. I quilt instead because I have learned the techniques and practiced through the process over and over. After watching this video I feel encouraged to try again. I do love fashion and am going on a sustainable fashion tour with Catherine of Catherine Sews this upcoming spring!!
Many are quilting because of the poor instructions out there. If you are having trouble with fit, and most are, I wrote "Grading to Fit' to answer the requests of my continuing professional students, many of whom worked in designing departments. laurelhoffmann.com/product/grading-to-fit/
This is what I’ve been looking for!!! As someone with an engineering background I got into sewing because poorly fitting garments are so obvious and annoying to me. I actually learnt from historical dress recreators so I often have no idea what the modern solutions are and land up hand sewing probably a lot more than I need to (but I like embroidery so it’s not bad). But to learn from someone with the actual technical instructions I’m looking for is exactly what I’ve been trying to find
I only started sewing during COVID and only started drafting my own patterns recently and your seam allowance tips to avoid clipping has literally rocked my world. (And honestly, watching you muss with the pattern instructions because I've done that what feels like a million times.)
Wow! Just found your channel. This is great. Your information is direct, straightforward and informative. I am a returning to sewing after many years. I remember buying patterns for as low as $1.25 and fabric for $1.99/yard. It’s crazy out there now. Love watching your channel. Thank you for your directness. Bravo 👏🏼
Consider taking patterns off ready-made garments. No need to remove even a stitch. Done all the time in industry. The best patterns are industrial patterns.
As a self-taught sewist, I have sewn up a lot items over the years and unafraid to tackle any sewing project--well, except perhaps shoes. No one has ever said "did I make that?" to me unless they knew I sewed. Usually it was as you noted, 'where did I buy that?' Some years back, a friend and I made slopers that fit our bodies. I referred to that time and again. Now that I'm retired, I'm getting back into sewing my clothes but my sloper is missing (or misplaced; I wouldn't toss it) although it's made for my much younger and slimmer self. I'm glad to know that there are books out there so I can remake one. I learned a lot from this video and appreciate your forthrightness on many issues. Glad to see I'm not the only one that makes notes all over the pattern. I totally agree with you that patterns are far too expensive so I wait for them to be on sale--big sale. I will be checking out your other videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
@@laurelhoffmann1594 Thank you for the compliment. My talents are due to years of experience and my share of flops.The great thing about flops is the learning what went wrong and do better the next time.
@@sandyp2485 I always say to my students, "Make a mistake, join the human race. You don't learn anything if you don't make mistakes. Please share your mistakes with the class so we can all learn." I asked my students to tell me what they needed to learn, and to tell me when they didn't understand in my books. In the beginning I didn't like it, but I hid my feelings because I needed to know. And then I began to like it! Now criticism doesn't bother me, because listening to others gives me not only the benefit of my own mind, but that of others as well.
I have found my Yoda 🙏 I'm a recently retired new to tailoring and love the way you present your wisdom and skills in a direct no B.S. way. Looking forward to spending time with your content just wish your books were available in the UK. Thank you Laurel
THANK YOU! I thought the pattern problems were mostly my fault. It got to the place that I just decided to take up quilting because quilts didn't have to fit me properly~ LOL! I learned sewing from 4-H, home-ec, Stretch-and-Sew, briefly working as a stage costume sewist, from books, from Sewing With Nancy, and so on. There are basic skills you share here that I have NEVER heard of before! I need to try these. I have previously hated sewing invisible zippers. I have had much trouble cutting on the folded fabric. I plan to save and purchase your books. I am new subscriber now!
@@creatinghanley You're not alone. I think that is the underlying reason so many women are into quilting. Here may be a surprise: The procedures used in quilting are the same procedures used in the industry. I strongly suspect that the industrial procedures, developed here in the USA during the two World Wars, now used globally, were developed from the quilting procedures. I always love when a quilter wants to take lessons with me because I know they already have the essential skills in place - cutting and sewing on gauge.
I rarely buy patterns anymore & generally do it when I see something I like for sale & am feeling lazy. I love multi-size patterns cause it makes it much easier to fit to me. I took Home Ec for 6 years & went on to become a professional costumer - I currently make stuffed animals & doll clothing ( plus stuff for myself). I can draft my own patterns & do tailoring. I also never use pattern layouts but omg I cut on the fold a lot because it’s less time consuming & no, I make sure it is on the grain lol. Now, if I’m using a really expensive or delicate type of material I compensate. I do this thing called FIT while I sew!!!! I will most certainly continue to clip seams lol. I’m a tailor & making a narrower seam does not change the need to clip. I’m not particularly impressed with the quality of garments I find in stores, even high end stores, btw, so saying this is ‘industry standard’ leaves me cold. Making muslins & slopes is de rigeur, of course.
I absolutely love your straightforward no nonsense delivery! I worked in a garment factory in my 20's topsitching straps and flaps for the military. Industrial sewing is so efficient because time is money and even in our homes our time is still valuable at 50 lol. I swear they instruct now to make it even more confusing, it's like they over explain.🤷♀️ Love your channel and I am going to look into your books too!
The problem is that even in the industry most don't have these skills. I was fortunate to have wonderful mentors when I was in the industry. I was just in the right places at the right times.
I'm a beginner sewer (tho advanced knitter so I have some experience with garment design), and this video is incredibly informative! I hate when garments are supposed to be sized on the bust, as it leads to garments being way too big on me, so I tend to supplement it with shoulder circumference. I actually tried 1 pattern when learning to sew, though I got frustrated with it part way through and now I freehand using parts of garments i like (like how the sleeve fits) when making my own clothes and I've found it much easier, though I'm definitely guilty of just folding to cut and I didn't realize how much it would affect the width. I don't think I would have learned that without this video, since imo, alot of sewing (and knitting) youtube is beginners trying to profit and clout chase without actually knowing how to properly sew.
I graduated from an apparel manufacturing and design program 20 years ago, but didn’t sew in the interim. Now I’m trying to sew for myself using home sewing patterns. You are such a gem to find as I try to remember what I learned about industrial sewing. I was never a home sewer. (I worked for a men’s accessories company) ❤
You were lucky to be taught manufacturing techniques. As I understand it, most programs aren't teaching industrial sewing, at least that is how I found it when I taught in college. It is fairly common for industry's designing departments to hire off the street because the fashion graduates have so much to unlearn and such unrealistic expectations. I always found the easiest students to teach were those who had no previous sewing instruction.
Hi. Interesting video ! But there are some points you make that I don’t fully agree. You chose the most expensive pattern company as an example. Almost all other pattern companies are far cheaper than Vogue.😅 So paying 30$ for a patterns is definitely not the norm. For me it’s usually between 3-15€ for single patterns and about 8-10€ for magazines with several patterns. I think the most I ever paid was 18€ for a single pattern from an independent French company. But it was worth it. I made a beautiful red trench coat from that patterns which I still love. I started sewing around 2014 and made my first garment (a skirt ) about a year later. Of course I had a few fails over the years but have made a lot of great fitting garments , too. But through the fails I learned a lot and I appreciate that. I don’t think it’s fair and realistic to compare an industrial setting with a home sewers setting. For example I wouldn’t have enough space at home to spread the fabric so cutting on the fold is more convenient. My dining table is my sewing space. And it’s not that big. This might be different in the US where everything is bigger 😜 but here in Germany apartments and houses are smaller I think. For me part of the hobby of sewing is also the fun of buying different patterns and sharing them with sewing friends. For some people it might be fun to draft their own patterns from a sloper. But for me that’s just not the case right now. I also appreciate having more than one size in a pattern. I never fit only one size. My bottom half has always been a little bigger than the top. I often grade between sizes which is not a big deal at all. I also almost always have to lengthen the sleeves and sometimes the bodice. But these are very easy adjustments. Granted it would be different if I had to adjust for a different size bust or a broader back. Then I believe it could be useful to draft your own pattern. With the different sizes I can also easily share the patterns with friends or make it in another size years later. Regarding seam allowance, it differs from company to company. As a German I sometimes use Burda patterns from the Burda Magazine or the online shop. They don’t have seam allowances included and I add them myself. There are also different European patterns makers that have smaller seam allowances. But you are right. 1,5 cm is used most often. Sorry for the lengthy comment. Hope you are not offended. I will definitely watch more of your videos because I am eager to learn from you.
Thank you for this particular video. I once had a seamstress and had beautiful fitting clothing, and I am trying my best to learn to make my own patterns and sew my own clothing correctly. You are right, the professionals who sew clothing in factories will probably never share their techniques. This is so sad for home sewers, who may not have had home economics at their schools and are dependent on the terrible pattern companies. I used two commercial patterns this year: one had issues I could correct and the other was a simple robe with the tie on the left side. It was an utter disaster; the important seams were mismatched (the collar/band) and not only did not line up with the shoulder seams, but were too short to end at the proper placement on the center front. No more commercial patterns for me. I will be buying your books and will watch the rest of your videos. You are a gem and really deserve kudos for doing what is right. Thank you so much for sharing you knowledge with us.
I was really happy to find some 40 year old videos by Margaret Islander by trying to find a video on how to sew without pins because they don't use pins in industrial sewing- too time consuming
It's not that the professionals don't want to share their information, it's that they are working full time, may not have writing or teaching skills, or if they do, may not have any way to test if their writing works. I have been extremely lucky - first with the mentors I had in industry - three European master tailors, the top layout artist at Alfred Angelos, the top grader in the Philadelphia area. Then, because the industry was moving off shore, being hired, in spite of being a woman, to run a factory. Years later, after having high success with my daughter's 4-H club, I was asked to teach in college. After five years teaching degree fashion students, I was asked to teach continuing education students, which later included design-room professionals. Just incredible luck!
@@SyKnife Thanks! It was all accidental. I never had any desire to work in the fashion industry. I started out with a major in journalism. It was my mother's idea that I switch to fashion . I think she wanted me to make clothes for her. Then the college dropped the program. I sewed for others before leaving home to make some money, then moved to the city in hopes of doing better. I was good at it, but the only reason I went into the industry was because I couldn't make any money doing custom sewing.
@@CeresIsABetterPlanetThanPluto Margaret Islander was the first to go into industry to learn how industry sews. She was an outstanding pioneer. Well, they don't use pins on the line, as she said. However, when I worked in the couture department at Alfred Angelos' where I was an assistant designer, we did a lot of pinning to hold the lace applique in place before it was machine sewn to the wedding gowns, which sold for over $10,000 back in the late 1960s. However, when I sew I don't pin straight seams as I sew notch-to-notch, as done in industry. But tricky spots sometimes need to be pinned. I know sample making, but I'm not a sample maker, so I'm not the speed ball they are.
I love your no bs approach. As a slim petite with an H bust, no pattern fits me. Even the pictures in the burda pattern books show garnments that look horrible. And they are expensive
You can have clothes that fit. I couldn't believe the fit problems that came up in my classes. It was an education. But from what you have said, I suspect you have a model's figure and would good in just about anything, if it were designed to fit you.
Just found your channel--don't know where it came from but it is what I've wanted FOREVER!! THANK YOU!! Where is the best place to start and go through your videos in a systematic order? Thank you, dear lady!
You can start anywhere. The books were written so that most of their courses could be taken in any order. My students were career personnel who already had hectic schedules. Setting up the courses so they had to be taken in a certain order would have been difficult for the students the program attracted. The videos, so far, contain basic information. Watch them in any order because there is no precise order to them anyway.
I have just found your channel, and boy am I glad I have! I am middle-aged and started to sew last year; I have learned a fair amount, but this is information is on another level. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge with us all.
I was so lucky to be asked to teach in college. My program attracted professional men and women, some from the industry. Working first with degree students, then with professionals helped me develop my teaching method. I owe so much to my students. My videos are the result of my interactions with those students. They are the ones to thank.
I add or reduce the seam allowances on my patterns to conform with what the industry does. When I cut the pattern pieces from the fabric they have the seam allowances on them that I plan to use. Then I sew on gauge. This eliminates trimming the seam allowances after the seams are sewn. When I worked on Main Line, where I was being trained by two European master tailors, we marked the seam lines on the fabric, sewed the seams, then trimmed the seam allowances. But I've found doing it the way industry does saves me considerable time.
NO, NO, NO! I could NEVER have been your home ec teacher. :-)) Home ec is over 100 years out of date. This is industrial couture! How the professionals do it for preferred customers. Much of the work I did in industry was shown only to customers who could easily afford clothing that cost in the thousands of dollars. Want to make clothes you could NEVER afford to buy? Watch my videos.
Thanks! Others need this information that I wish I had when I was trying to sew. When I was a teen I would buy a pattern and some fabric in the five and ten. I was so excited. I was convinced I would have something really pretty to wear when I would finish. But in the end I had spent my money and my time only to be so disappointed.
I have sewn since 7th gr & am now 77. This has been my hobby. Your youtube helped explain some of my fitting problems. I have sewn my daughters' clothes, mine & now have moved on to making quilts, 450 COVID masks, purses, tiny coin purses, doll clothes cabbage patch dolls, double scrunchies, etc. During COVID, I gave away COVID masks for Hollween trick or treaters. They were thrilled to get them!
Yes, yes, yes! Laurel. I studied at a trade school and learned production sewing and pattern drafting. Thats when i finally enjoyed sewing. I dont know why colleges continue to use commercial patterns when teaching sewing. I say no more commercial patterns in fashion design programs. Its so wrong.
It's soooo hard to learn sewing on your own, I wish I had a teacher like you. Commercial clothing is ugly and doesn't fit my body type. Made a few garments by Style arc, still look like a potatoes, but at least I made them... Thank you for your honesty and your resources!
I just came across your channel Laurel and as a home sewist your insights are extremely useful. Thanks for taking the time to pass on this information.
You have explained so clearly all the areas of pattern use I have issues with and end up doing it my way. Thankyou and look forward to buying your books
I've always loved Vogue too. But I found that Butterick was a good less expensive version of Vogue. These days I just take clothes out on my charge and copy their patterns. The best patterns are those from industry. Simpler, easier to use, current style.
This was a fabulous video! I loved learning a little history as you talk about this. I will watch everything you've done! I learned basic sewing from my grandmother, but now, I have no one to consult as I try to revisit sewing! Thank you for your generosity!
Thanks so much laurel, I appreciate what your teaching us . Anything that makes the finished product not only better but quite to make , Is just fabulous
I used a commercial pattern for a shift in high school home ec in the 1960's then I copied the basics of that to design my prom gown in 1971. I used a Simplicity pattern once around that time. The dress didn't last because it was all one piece including the sleeves which soon tore at the under arms. I don't think I have used a commercial pattern since except some Barbie doll clothes. I draft from books or my own ideas. I mostly make circle skirts.
As a pattern maker for 30 yrs in the industry , patterns are drafted on the fold, but patterns are not cut on any folds. I do agree store bought patterns can be very confusing to beginners and home sewers. No wonder some get discouraged. We use 1/2 " seam allowances and 1/4" seam allowances. I drafted patterns on the table, and also on Gerber CAD. I also did grading on table and in CAD, I disagree with the notch placements, they will grade automatically with sleeve cap notches also the armhole notches grade automatically. I drafted all patterns from scratch and did not use blocks or slopers.
Thanks for commenting, Debra. I find the sleeve notches in home-sewing patterns don't match up. We had to walk all the sleeve notches around the armholes when I worked in industry. All of the grading I did was with a hand-grader. It may be that the computer programmers have fixed that problem.
@@laurelhoffmann1594 yes, that could be true. I have also used that grading technique. They have come a long way with technology, I was disappointed to be retiring when the programs have now introduced avatars and actually simulating your pattern pieces to connect to each other and then the garment fits onto the avatar showing how it fits, drapes and where it might be tight or loose, etc. Amazing. Although I hate say it but it seems like a waste of time to me. One apparel plant I worked in did Grading and Marker Making on Lectra CAD. I as a pattern maker asked my boss's boss, why there was no patternmaking on the CAD as that was all done by hand on the table. He told me because everyone knows it's faster. He worked in the rag trade in NYC, as his father owned an apparel factory. Actually he was very young then so you could say he grew up in that industry. He also could do just about every job such as patternmaking, grading, costing , marker making, laying out fabric in the cutting room in addition the cutting as well. He could sew a garment together, he knew how to use the industrial sewing machines. Several years later I was employed at another plant as a pattern maker, only no table drafting, we had to draft patterns on Gerber CAD. Wow, what a difference, I mean yes, it did take longer! Much longer. I couldn't believe it. Of course the only people that drafted patterns WERE the pattern maker's, and they never learned to draft a pattern from scratch even on the CAD. They of course used blocks/slopers.. The problem with that was if there was one a bit off, then if you used that block to start your own pattern you would repeat that same error over and over. I never used blocks, or if I did, it was one I created. My point here is that a very experienced pattern maker would agree it is much faster to draft a pattern on the table. My previous boss was right. Then we would digitize it into our computer and take a few secs to true it up, then grading began, which is more efficient on a CAD. I studied Fashion Design, I already could sew, my mother taught me at 8 yrs old, and I could also alter my own commercial patterns growing up..... when I studied pattern making I was hooked! I loved it! Never in a million yrs did I want to draft..anything for that matter as career. But I guess you could say it picked me, I excelled at it (if I do say so myself). I had that "spatial" type vision. Sometimes I could tell if a sleeve top would fit in an armhole by just looking at it. Also at one time I worked with a gentleman that was a patternmaker all his life. He taught some techniques that I don't remember seeing or reading in any pattern book. He showed me how to take one front piece of a pant and with the back piece lay out in such a fashion to determine the correct grain line and just by looking at how he laid the front on the back piece, you could see if your pant was balanced after the pant was sewn. I don't think I've ever come upon that in any pattern book and I have many just because I love them. I really miss my career. My son said to me when he was in his teens," Mom, I don't know anyone that likes to get up everyday and go to their job". Ha! So true. And Laurel, I find your video's very interesting and I agree with you. I live in Pa. If you aren't far I would love to connect.
@@debraemig417 Great comments. Can't agree with you more. Sounds like you are a "natural" born talent. The fashion programs teach to use the computer. But how does anyone understand what the computer is doing if one can't do it on the table? I live in Oreland, just northwest of Philly. Would love to meet you in person. 215 84 7065 Laurel@Cfashionedu.com
Laurel you are so cool, thanks for sharing your tips/grievances! Your wisdom and candor are much appreciated. I’m a 23 year old guy working on a dress for my mother for Christmas and it’s a bit ambitious for my beginner skill set, so videos like yours are so helpful!
Guess what? Those patterns don't fit anyone. ;-)) They are drafted for an average size, which just about no one is. I had no idea, when I began teaching, how bad the problem is. I was a fit model in the industry, along with everything else. I'm one of those rare people who walk into a store and everything fits. But most people are wearing clothes that don't fit. When one looks at others, it would seem as though their clothes fit, but fabric has a way of easing itself around us, giving the illusion. Although I think, from fitting students, that approximately one out of every seventeen people has an asymmetrical body, in my classes it was one in four! Horrors!!! So my books all address both symmetrical and asymmetrical fit and have many boxes that say, "If fitting an asymmetrical figure, turn to this page."
@@andreasfort1599 Halloween was always a big deal when my children were growing up. They could have any costume they wanted. But--- they never could understand why they were the first students whose identity their teacher guessed. Later my husband made home videos with them in costume. It was a lot of fun.
I agree with you Laurel! I never want someone to ask me if "I made it". There are so many patterns that look homemade right out of the pattern book! I don't know why you'd even bother!
Wow, I am so glad that I found your channel. You are so full of information. I’m following my heart and starting on my sewing journey. i’m sure I am going to learn a lot from your videos. Thank you for sharing your information and knowledge and expertise.
Thank you for your youtube discussion. It shed some light as to why my grandau hter's flower girl dress was uncomfortanle under the armpits. I'm 77 & have sewn since I was in 7th grade. It has been my hobby & learned from many mistakes, but never gave up. I've quilted, sewn my daughters' clothes, my clothes, doll clothes, doll sleeping bags, 450 COVID masks, & many other items.
I've been sewing off and on for the past 5 years bc i was fed up with fast fashion and i like 40's/50's style clothing more but i don't want to empty my bank account for that. I only found out last year i have a shorter torso, that was a lightbulb experiance. Although i use mostly Burda patterns and some big 4, i always needed to adjust them to make the clothes fit me. So i started learning to draft them myself and it is soooo much better. Everyone needs to learn how to sew it is such a valuable skill to have.
Hi Laurel are you the same instructor that taught factory methods at Philadelphia Textiles in Philadelphia PA? I wanted to take your certificate courses but children were young. I also fostered many children. But now I’m 61 and finally learning to sew. So glad I found you again.
@@laurelhoffmann1594I attended Philadelphia Textile in 1978-80 as a textile design major. I regret that I didn’t take the advanced apparel design classes. I sewed all my clothes for years but stopped when the cost of fabrics and patterns rose. Currently I am interested in wearing quality garments and this has peaked my desire to sew my clothes again. I know that most home sewing patterns are problematic. Ready to wear “fast fashion” is so disappointing in fit and fabric quality. I am delighted to find your channel. You are a godsend to me now and hopefully have a second opportunity to learn from you. Thank you for inspiring a former design student.
Interesting and informative video, great advice about seam allowances and zip applications, most people dont realise zips are usually sewn first and on the flat..... As a commercial patternmaker working in manufacturing in Australia for 3+ decades. In Australia we have a body sizing standard (set by a government body) that is followed by most manufacturers. Most of our dummies are made within Australian standards... Have never heard of using the underbust measurement as the guide to body fit to a store bought pattern. I can see the relevance when doing custom made to fit, garments, for individual persons, which is done when measuring the person up for the first toile... How can the underbust measurement be worked out on a store bought pattern? When the body size chart, printed on the pattern envelope only gives, full bust, waist and hip measurements... The majority of home sewers would not think to convert a bra cup size into a pattern toile for a dress or fitted top unless they had patternmaking training. From my observation the only women that would pay attention to this detail are women that wear d+ cup bras where their fronts have to be way bigger than the average body shape, prime example is Dolly Parton.... Have i missed something in this video about this?
There is only so much one can put in a video when dealing with a subject as complicated as grading. The problem with home-sewing patterns here in the United States is first that the patterns actually fit a B cup bust, two inches larger in circumference than stated on the pattern envelope. The pattern fits a chest measurement 2 inches less than the bust measurement stated on the envelope. This means that many, if not most women are choosing the wrong size pattern. Quite frankly, it's a mess. But the patterns can be of use, if one understands how to deal with these problems. "Grading to Fit," the book I wrote at my students request, addresses these problems. But it took 470 pages and a lot of classroom testing to get it right. The only reason I could write this book is because I did a lot of grading in industry before computers were introduced. Once this book was finished, the students needed two more books, "Grading and Sewing a Blouse to Fit" and "Grading a Jacket," in order to test their grading coordinates that would enable them to grade home-sewing patterns or other grade-rule patterns to a custom fit.
@laurelhoffmann1594 thank you for your reply, total agree about store patterns, their construction techniques haven't changed since the 40s-50s where sewing machines were very expensive and a lot was done by hand. Who sews interfacing onto a garment, ever!!!! As a child in the 70s the patterns would totally flabbergast me, I wanted instructions that were commercial as garments sold in-store. That is what inspired me to work in design and shaping so I could achieve the looks that I saw in stores... But I think the under bust measurement is more relevant for bridal and evening wear, which isn't the style of patterns you had in hand, which was more for tailoring outer garments. Perhaps a video on specialty fittings for bridal and evening wear would be better suited alongside store bought patterns that are sold for that market. Love your style, regards Minka😍
Very happy to have just found you ! I’ve sewn garments before ( since teenager) but always, a bit disappointed with fit etc. I went into quilting and enjoy it much. But now I feel like I can watch some of your video’s and possible be more successful with garments. Fingers crossed 🤞You’ve inspired me!
I just gave a very similar rant to my girlfriend the other day about knitting patterns. I self draft everything I knit because I cannot stand the way modern patterns are written. I don’t have any professional experience like you do. I’m 24 but I learned from the retired ladies at the local knitting shop when I was 7 and taught myself everything else from old books and stitch guides. I’ve taught dozens of people how to knit. I know I’m overgeneralizing but I keep seeing the same things keep happening. It feels like the knitters who learned in the last decade or so have no understanding as to how knitting actually works and why patterns are written how they are. They say they wish the sleeves were smaller as they are knitting it but don’t think to add in a few extra decreases. When you do not understand, you cannot create. I also see it coming out in people with a lot of experience who cannot figure out how to fix their mistakes because they don’t understand things like what it looks like when a knit and purl are stacked on top of each other. I only started seeing this new online knitting community and influencers within the last few months and it has felt like such a culture shock. I wish people understood the power and freedom that comes with knowing why things are done like this. I’ve always struggled with sewing because I never built that foundational understanding like I did with knitting and I am so thrilled to have come across your page. I plan to buy your books to have as my reference guides. Thank you for teaching people how to think for themselves.
I set my sleeves in with a serger. I changed the differential feed to 1.5, and the feed dogs adjusted the extra width. Depending on the fabric, there might not be any clipping. But I agree with you about the armhole; it is not correct. I am glad to find your channel.
This has real "Old woman yells at clouds" energy, and i am _here_ for it.
I'm going to be laughing at your comment all day today. Thanks!
I love the endearing aggressiveness haha. she's had it with home-sewing patterns, officially!
I'm fed up! Time someone said it like it is. :-))
Same! I find her so freaking adorable! Would totally love to chat at a cafe with her hahaha
If she was a man you'd call her confident and knowledgeable.
No I’ve had it go tf HOME!! Love detox
Aren't we all fed up with the screwiness of these patterns 😂
The use of massive washers as weights is absolutely ingenious!
And they're cheap. :-)) Right in your local hardware store.
I have been sewing since I was a 5th grader. I am 76 years old. Patterns and fabrics have gotten so expensive that I don't make many of my own clothes anymore. However, I do hang on to my old patterns.There isn't any reason for me to buy new commercial patterns at the full price. The old patterns are easier to use; and, fashion repeats itself.
Check your local extension office - every county in the USA has one. They may have fabric sales where they sell donated fabrics. If so, the buys are fantastic!
@@laurelhoffmann1594 I'm sorry; but, our Extension Service has sent out requests for us to donate fabric for making baby quilts. I live in Eastern Kentucky.
@@arvettadelashmit9337 Sorry about that. If you weren't so far away from Philadelphia, I'd ask for their address. I need to get rid of fabric.
I have over 30 years of experience making my own clothing. Self taught starting with 4 H project in 4th grade. I also have done some sewing for others.
Then an over 30 year break.
I started thrifting sewing fabric for about 2 years. I have some beautiful and expensive fabrics. Then patterns. Oh mercy. Ive tried every thing from 22 to 32. Ive actually wore 1 blouse , came home, folded it and put it back in my projects. My issue is my bidy size. 48 55 69. But normal looking curves.
I am finishing a dress by a new McCalls pattern...I hate it . HATE . OUR Thanksgiving conversation was about this. I told my son " I dont think this was an intentional pattern. It appears to have been a total accident. They messed together fabric and lots of elastic. And then kinda copied this accidental garment. I hate they make money on this wreck. I have NEVER before had this issue . There are no hints, pointers, pictures, instructions as to how to put the midriff together with th e bodice and skirt. What a flipping joke. And they say to fully line the midriff. Oh I am sorry to unload. I hope to get enough confidence to start my own patterns. JUST FOR ME.
THANKS FOR THE INFO.
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@arvettadelashmit9337 there are no longer Extension services. Nor is Home Ec still taught.
I've been sewing in one form or another for 50+ years and clothing has always been troublesome for me. Everything you said makes perfect sense...new subscriber here. *makes another pot of coffee to settle in for a Laurel Hoffmann video viewing marathon*
Thanks!
This woman is an icon. I feel like she’s putting together all the pieces of things I have sensed about home sewing patterns.
Thank you!
Ongoing self taught sewist here, and my mind is having continuous seismic events while watching this… I have struggles with pattern sewing since I began sewing and therefore have not used patterns much thinking I was “stupid” because I couldn’t grasp it. It’s such a relief to know my hunch was not wrong!
AND… not cutting on the fold-of course! Makes so much sense!
You have yourself a new avid follower! 🎉
I felt exactly the same as you. I had no option but to go to a thrift store and looked for a dress that fitted nicely on the bodice and ripped it apart and copied it. Later, I learned how to daft patterns myself.
@@mayrajscortes Good for you! Sounds like you are very talented. This is proof of inborn engineering abilities.
I don't want anyone thinking they are stupid. You're NOT! The home-sewing instructions are awful. It's no wonder no one sews anymore.
i have trouble with cutting on the fold as well, the sides always end up having different dimensions. i thought i was the problem, made me hate the cutting process because of how slow i'm getting to try to get it right every time :)
@@MRSDAVID1 It's NOT your fault! Unfortunately too many of us assume that it's all our fault when our sewing goes wrong. The problem is: good information just isn't out there.
I’m a Family and Consumer Sciences teacher and I teach kids from 8-18 to sew!! I make sure they understand how the machine works and can keep it running!! My club sponsors an after school program we call the sewing club and we sew Tuesdays and Thursdays from 3:30-5:00. Boys and Girls love sewing and we do it for free!
Good for you!
I learned to sew in JHS. I thank all Home Ed teachers.
@@akuaakoto4495 Sounds like you had good teachers.
Lovely. I know a lot of people with treadle machines to sell for tuppence and they work great no electricity bills.
My grandmother, who passed last year in her sleep aged 95, had an identical reaction to seeing someone cutting out on the fold, only she was welding a roll of tracing paper at the time and yelled for longer about necklines being out of shape. Grandma had a thing for perfect necklines and under stitching because she said that would always be the thing other women looked at first.
I teach sewing, and the biggest group of students that come to me are those who follow patterns in tears thinking their rubbish sewers. Thing is they think theyve done something sewing wrong, when it doesnt fit!!! Thankyou - i can refer your videos to them now too! Thankyou
I started with pattern making because in this part of the world (South East Asia) there aren't any commercial patterns available, every home sewer know how to draft pattern. Then my curiosity lead me to purchase western premade patterns. Those details are rubbish, people who obediently followed patterns don't "know how to sew" at all.
I find that older patterns have better “tailoring”, if I can call it that. The sewing details are typically better, especially finishing techniques. So I pick up vintage patterns whenever I can.
I was required to take Home arc in high school, in the late 1960’s. I followed that by taking sewing in 4H, which was taught by a professional seamstress.
I still make a lot of my clothes, mainly because I hate fast fashion.
You are correct in everything you said. Count me as a new subscriber.
Thanks! Sounds like you were already on the right track. And thanks for subscribing.
You were really lucky to have a professional seamstress when you were in 4H.
@btd3375 please, from what years do you consider vintage patterns?
@ I consider vintage patterns to be anything older than 1970. The period before 1965 was especially rich in quality patterns. Great sewing details as compared to after pattern companies made things simpler to attract new sewers. You give up so much quality when you do that and the result is that newer sewers don’t learn the difference.
Now, it is true that what I tend to call “indie” pattern companies (mistakenly, no doubt) do have a different quality level than the big 4 or 5.
But I would rather buy a pattern for a single size, with quality garment details, than have the ability to have multiple sizes in one envelope and get confused in cutting it out or not having room on the paper for details.
A golden age in patterns for me is around 1960. For example, vests/waistcoat patterns had real welt pockets. Not fake pockets. And shirts often had gussets to relieve seam stress. And, women’s’ clothes that had pockets had real pockets that were useful.
Long seams like on shirt sides were generally flat-felled, not single stitch and either pinked or zig-zagged. In decades past, most people had less clothes but they were often better quality. Because better quality lasted longer.
I do have some lovely 1930’s and 40’s patterns, but you have to really be into retro to wear them. You can find those in antique or vintage shops.
@ thank you!!
I can sew anything but clothes following a store bought pattern. I was a seamstress for a design firm and made items for the home. I quilt some, no expert. But heavens, I about fainted when I saw the price of patterns about a month ago. I just wanted a simple skirt pattern. By the time I bought it and some good material and my time, I might could have bought a fairly nice clothing item. So i went to TH-cam and found a way to do it without a pattern. I made 3 for the fall and winter. Fits me perfect. I just found your channel so I have a lot of videos to watch. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You're welcome. You deserve to have this information. There are many good reasons why this information hasn't been available. It really isn't anyone's fault. I've been fortunate to have the good luck to be able to write my books and then have a son who is very interested in making videos and working with me. I also have a very supportive husband. I can't believe I've been so fortunate.
I use Burda magazine patterns. Most of them are pretty basic. They are sized more for German girls, bustier and taller. Regular sizes have B cup and plus sizes have C cups. Vogue and those others use A cup.
I use Burda Plus magazine patterns They are also multi sized.
Each magazine has about a dozen patterns, multi-sized for about $10-$12. The instructions are minimal, so you need to have the old vogue book that tells you how to do everything or can figure out stuff with just a little help.
@@superstarcat7654 Here in the USA the big four home-sewing pattern companies - Vogue, Butterick, Simplicity, and MCalls, - mail order, and some manufacturers use the Standard Size grade rule, developed here in the USA. Their patterns are drafted to a B cup, which is a circumference four inches larger than the chest size measured under the bust, although none of that is stated on the pattern envelopes. Burda is almost certainly using a different grade rule.
@
Wow! They must have changed. Back in the 1980’s the big four used an A cup, at least that is what Vogue told me.
@@superstarcat7654 I don't think the person you spoke to at Vogue knew. When one measures patterns drafted here in the USA (Butterick, Vogue, Simplicity, and McCalls) in 1980s or any year, it's a B cup. The pattern's bust measurement is 4 inches more than the chest measurement in any of these the big four home-sewing patterns as they all draft to Standard Size grade rule, developed by the USA government and used extensively here in the USA - mail order and some manufacturers.
If when shopping you are measured for a bra, the shop clerk measures your chest under the bust, she then adds five inches to give the C cup measurement. She then measures your bust to determine your cup size. If your bust measures 4 inches more than your chest size, you wear a B cup.
I LOVE how direct you are! You are such a freakin’ breath of fresh air. THANK YOU.
Thanks! Your comment sounds good to me! I would have said the same if I could have had this information when I was young. I want YOU and others like you to have it. Thanks again!
I am 73 and I've been sewing since my first Home-Ec class in 1963 when I was taught to use a treadle and McCall or Simplicity patterns! We were taught to make a muslin garment first and correct the issues before cutting our fashion fabric. How much better to correct on paper prior to cutting - and such a great, helpful tip to use the "bone measurement" rather than the "bust measurement". I am planning to purchase your books asap! THANK YOU for making these free tutorials!
Thank you! All of a sudden, after 40 years of writing and testing, everyone is interested! Racing to keep up. Thanks for the compliments! It's you, and people like you for whom I write.
Thank you for breaking the myth that the pattern is 'gospel'. Alll these years of frustration and failure, and it most likely was a junk pattern making the mess. I am encouraged to try again!
Good luck! You should have more, now that you know it's not you.
First I thought that I like having multiple sizes in one pattern. What is she complaining about. But I continued watching and I've learned so much in just one video. Thank you very much!
Lots of greetings from Germany
Glad to hear from you. Some like multi-sized patterns. I'm never sure about them, but two or three sizes are enough in one pattern. These days I go to the store, find something I like, take it out on my charge, take off the pattern, and return the purchase. Industrial patterns are so much easier to use than the home-sewing patterns. The home-sewing patterns tend to be out of date, both in procedures and in style.
Cutting out fabric in one layer is a game changer for me. Pattern pieces now fit together. Changed my sewing experience significantly! Thanks!!
How do u do that ... ive always folded mine
Where do you have so much space?
This is AWESOME and peak TH-cam!! I can’t believe your channel hasn’t exploded with such exceptional knowledge sharing.
Laurel, you are an absolute delight. I appreciate all this information you're imparting to those of us out here just trying to sew clothes we like. Thank you!!
My pleasure.
My mom was taught in Europe to operate an atelier. She came to North America and worked in a high end Toronto exclusive shop to alter to fit. The other worker had no idea. Then when she was pregnant she was dismissed as per Simpson’s policy. At home she was brought Vogue patterns and expensive foreign materials and was able to cut them properly to make additional pieces for ensembles and said Vogue instructions were the worst. Being an expert she couldn’t explain to teach me (“It’s obvious!”). But watching her showed how intuitively she handled the fabric to cut and fit for every unique figure in a more complementary design than the tissue showed. Fittings were amazing. Mom’s old now and I made her a dressing gown set for Harry’s Royal Wedding. She loved my gift.
It sounds as though your mother was very talented. Tell me, did you have a wardrobe to die for? I always saw my children as dolls to dress. They had their brother/sister train outfits, zoo outfits, etc. When Halloween came they had their choice of costumes. But they never could understand why their teachers guessed them first when they went to school in their costumes on Halloween. ;-))
@@cvan1075 Thank you for sharing this. ❤️
😂 love your direct way of talking to us. I'm 82, left school 14 went to the sewing industry. Retired only last year teaching a small group of people men and women. Tell young ones the skills I learned in industry. They don't learn this in home tech at school. Thank you.
Thank you for teaching industrial skills. Anyway I can help you, please let me know. My email address is Laurel@CFashionEdu.com Phone: 215 884 7065
They dont even learn it at fashion design school. I did a course with a tailor must be your age now. And it was full of srudents who had spent 4 years at university and had not once picked up a needle and thréad let alone used a machine! My mom had taught me to make patterns on newspaper from magazine patterns which are just on an a 4 page and you have to copy them out yourself from the small pattern picture. The tailoe taught me how to make basic block and then make a pattern and change it on paper to how you want it. I have my great grandmothers wilcocks and Gibb machine and my grandmother and great grandmother both made lace. I have a green silk edwardian dress from 1910s or 20s but older style with the high waist and floppy front. It is in peices not put together she must not have finished it. Id love to finish it one day but need a tiny form for it because nó human adult would fit into any of the old clothes they were all very thin! Their waist is the sixe of my thigh 21 inches! And up to the 1970s i have clothes my family have made ..all so much better made than anything i have done.
You cut the scrap right out with your teaching technique! I'm looking forward to subsequent vids from you.
Re: Vogue Patterns. Self-taught sewist in 50's. My sewing improved when I discovered Vogue. Many pages of instruction helped me. I have my old Vogue patterns still but I'm so sad they aren't available.
It seems YOU are the replacement! Pleased to meet you!
Thanks for sharing. Lessons learned..don’t cut on fold, reduce seam sizes. . I will look for yellow tracing paper. This summer I finally made a t shirt sloper that actually fits. I will watch your other videos to improve my skills. I do like multi sized patterns. Pear shape bodies are not all one size…. And many patterns include tops and bottoms. And I only buy patterns at Joann sales. I would love to have a top sloper, and a pants one and a skirt one. For me a great compliment I received this summer was.. your dress is gorgeous..where did you buy it. I don’t save money with home sewing..but it is a better fit and better fabric, and it is rewarding. I subscribed.
I make my clothes - ALL of them that you see on my videos. I can't afford to buy what I can make. :-)) I buy clothes for when I'm at home so as to save the clothes I make for when I go out.
In the 90s I attended a Sandra Bettina sewing workshop and learned the single most valuable thing that made my sewing look store-bought: bias-cut sewing! The pattern companies sewed samples that way, but left cutting instructions that would save money, but would look homemade, and you would wonder why your sewing efforts looked homemade!!!!
Bettina, that is
Bettzina
My experience with editors is that too many of them have never worked in industry. Home sewing procedures went out of date 100 years ago. During the First and Second World Wars the USA apparel industry sent orders out to small USA manufacturing concerns who were making other products using low-level engineering procedures. They developed the apparel manufacturing methods now used globally, even in the Paris houses. But because of line-assembly, few, even in the apparel industry understand how the whole system works. No one is trying to keep this a secret. It's just the way it is. I had wonderful mentors when I worked in industry. I believe this information should be available to everyone who wants to learn it.
@@laurelhoffmann1594Brilliant! Thank you! 😃🤩🙏
@@susangrande8142 Thank you!
I hear your sister! I started sewing at nine years old. I am now 65 years old. I am very curvy however I was never taught how to design a garment for myself. I followed the big four pattern makers and I didn’t learn anything about how to, so dart, or insert a zipper. I love your videos because you are teaching me something. I have needed to learn how to do. I love to make garments. I own over 200 Vogue patterns. Designer patterns. I have invested quite a bit of my income in these patterns. But they do not fit my curvy body! You are the first professional expert industry sewist (?) that I connect with. Thank you times 10 to the sixth. I’m sure you offer courses your books. I will be investing in you and the knowledge that you share. Peace be with you, my sister.
It's comments like yours, and people like you that have kept me going over the forty years it took me to write my books. You've made my day!
CAD software absolutely can grade notches correctly. It requires that the CAD users correctly enter the grade rules to the correct points. Absolute in agree with you on the seam allowance widths and the crazy instructions.
It's pretty awesome to learn so many things in just 28 minutes. Lol. As someone new to sewing, I have seen the patterns as infallible and I always assumed that any problem that arose was my inexperience.
I have wasted SO much fabric trying to cut per pattern fold over instructions.
Also, parchment paper from the grocery store works as well. 😊
The benefit of tracing paper is that you can draft on one side, then turn it over and correct the previous drafting. Then turn it back over and erase the original drafting. I do it all the time. Think I never make mistakes? PLEASE............. And just in case you are wondering, I have my books open when I sew and I turn the pages as I work through the project(s). I don't remember all this stuff. In fact, when I am using my books it is hard for me to realize that I actually wrote the stuff. It always seems as if someone else wrote an diagrammed it.
@laurelhoffmann1594 Thank you so much! I love this channel.
I started making my own clothes when I was 9. All the women in my family could make clothes. This continued through my teens and I had the most brilliant outfits made from discarded velvet curtains and so on… I also discovered a book by Margarita Golbourn on pattern cutting and grading. I made my own block and this was a game changer! Everyone should learn this skill at school!
Just laughed out loud. I am currently studying costuming because I wanted to learn how to sew things properly. My teachers share your displeasure of cutting on the fold. Learning how easy it is to pivot darts is almost maddening. I eagerly look forward to learning pattern grading next semester, now also watching and reading more of your content. Thank you for taking the time to share. 😊
Thanks for responding! Sounds good!
I am a self-taught sewer, mostly sticking to quilting or non-clothing items. I have tried clothing before, but found fitting patterns so disheartening (especially being a larger size, and needing more adjustments to fit) because everything looked awful on me when I made it. I have often wished for an older sewing mentor to teach me what they know, and to teach me the things that patterns won't! Your videos feel very much like this to me, and I'm so very grateful for it!
Thank you. I just finished fitting a student with a figure that I think is much like yours. I never fit anyone in the past like I did her. Everyone is different. Fit is complicated. Not surprising that you have been discouraged in the past.
I wish i had seen and heard you years ago. I have sewn all my life and struggled. My first dress was a green gingham - which i unpicked many times while stitching …. I was struggling with the zip when my Aunt popped in to visit - she had her own Dress Shop - she saw what i was doing - well she floored me as I remember she just put the zip on the fabric and stitched no problem - perfect job. Thus was all of 62 years ago. Thank you for your video 🌻 I’m watching from South Africa
Thank you so much! Hello to South Africa from Philadelphia! I live in Oreland, a little big town just northwest of Philadelphia, but I think of Philadelphia as home.
I have sewn on and off for about 30 years. I don’t enjoy garment sewing because I don’t know what I am doing! And then there’s the fit! Drives me crazy. I quilt instead because I have learned the techniques and practiced through the process over and over. After watching this video I feel encouraged to try again.
I do love fashion and am going on a sustainable fashion tour with Catherine of Catherine Sews this upcoming spring!!
Many are quilting because of the poor instructions out there. If you are having trouble with fit, and most are, I wrote "Grading to Fit' to answer the requests of my continuing professional students, many of whom worked in designing departments. laurelhoffmann.com/product/grading-to-fit/
This is what I’ve been looking for!!!
As someone with an engineering background I got into sewing because poorly fitting garments are so obvious and annoying to me.
I actually learnt from historical dress recreators so I often have no idea what the modern solutions are and land up hand sewing probably a lot more than I need to (but I like embroidery so it’s not bad).
But to learn from someone with the actual technical instructions I’m looking for is exactly what I’ve been trying to find
I only started sewing during COVID and only started drafting my own patterns recently and your seam allowance tips to avoid clipping has literally rocked my world.
(And honestly, watching you muss with the pattern instructions because I've done that what feels like a million times.)
I'm with you!
This was bout 15 or 20 years ago? I’m now 61 and just learning to sew. So happy you’re still around and giving us Good information.
So am I! :-))
You have forgotten more about pattens and sewing than I have ever even learned. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks! Such a nice compliment.
Just came across your video, and I love the information that you are giving us. Thank you so much, intelligent, beautiful lady.
I have been sewing for 60 years, and still learned some great advice!
Wow! Just found your channel. This is great. Your information is direct, straightforward and informative. I am a returning to sewing after many years. I remember buying patterns for as low as $1.25 and fabric for $1.99/yard. It’s crazy out there now. Love watching your channel. Thank you for your directness. Bravo 👏🏼
Consider taking patterns off ready-made garments. No need to remove even a stitch. Done all the time in industry. The best patterns are industrial patterns.
@@laurelhoffmann1594I have found that difficult.
Thank you! I have a body that is constantly changing, have been sewing for over 60 years and haven't conquered the fit yet. Love your direct approach.
Thanks for your compliment. Fit is the big problem for most people who sew.
As a self-taught sewist, I have sewn up a lot items over the years and unafraid to tackle any sewing project--well, except perhaps shoes. No one has ever said "did I make that?" to me unless they knew I sewed. Usually it was as you noted, 'where did I buy that?'
Some years back, a friend and I made slopers that fit our bodies. I referred to that time and again. Now that I'm retired, I'm getting back into sewing my clothes but my sloper is missing (or misplaced; I wouldn't toss it) although it's made for my much younger and slimmer self. I'm glad to know that there are books out there so I can remake one.
I learned a lot from this video and appreciate your forthrightness on many issues. Glad to see I'm not the only one that makes notes all over the pattern. I totally agree with you that patterns are far too expensive so I wait for them to be on sale--big sale.
I will be checking out your other videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks! Sounds like you are very talented.
@@laurelhoffmann1594 Thank you for the compliment. My talents are due to years of experience and my share of flops.The great thing about flops is the learning what went wrong and do better the next time.
@@sandyp2485 I always say to my students, "Make a mistake, join the human race. You don't learn anything if you don't make mistakes. Please share your mistakes with the class so we can all learn."
I asked my students to tell me what they needed to learn, and to tell me when they didn't understand in my books. In the beginning I didn't like it, but I hid my feelings because I needed to know. And then I began to like it! Now criticism doesn't bother me, because listening to others gives me not only the benefit of my own mind, but that of others as well.
I have found my Yoda 🙏 I'm a recently retired new to tailoring and love the way you present your wisdom and skills in a direct no B.S. way. Looking forward to spending time with your content just wish your books were available in the UK. Thank you Laurel
Thanks for your comments. We ship. Currently putting the books up on Barnes & Noble. Will post when they are up.
@ thanks for the update Laurel 👍
@@Hutch82UK My pleasure.
THANK YOU! I thought the pattern problems were mostly my fault. It got to the place that I just decided to take up quilting because quilts didn't have to fit me properly~ LOL! I learned sewing from 4-H, home-ec, Stretch-and-Sew, briefly working as a stage costume sewist, from books, from Sewing With Nancy, and so on. There are basic skills you share here that I have NEVER heard of before! I need to try these. I have previously hated sewing invisible zippers. I have had much trouble cutting on the folded fabric. I plan to save and purchase your books. I am new subscriber now!
It isn't your fault. Not by a long shot. Thanks for your comments.
I started quilting too because I want to sew but clothing seems intimidating
@@creatinghanley You're not alone. I think that is the underlying reason so many women are into quilting.
Here may be a surprise: The procedures used in quilting are the same procedures used in the industry. I strongly suspect that the industrial procedures, developed here in the USA during the two World Wars, now used globally, were developed from the quilting procedures. I always love when a quilter wants to take lessons with me because I know they already have the essential skills in place - cutting and sewing on gauge.
i'm glad the algorithm showed me this video, i'm definitely checking out the invisible zipper video
I put them in all the time. I love the look. I developed my own method as I've never had any luck with invisible zipper sewing machine feet.
I rarely buy patterns anymore & generally do it when I see something I like for sale & am feeling lazy.
I love multi-size patterns cause it makes it much easier to fit to me.
I took Home Ec for 6 years & went on to become a professional costumer - I currently make stuffed animals & doll clothing ( plus stuff for myself). I can draft my own patterns & do tailoring. I also never use pattern layouts but omg I cut on the fold a lot because it’s less time consuming & no, I make sure it is on the grain lol. Now, if I’m using a really expensive or delicate type of material I compensate.
I do this thing called FIT while I sew!!!!
I will most certainly continue to clip seams lol. I’m a tailor & making a narrower seam does not change the need to clip.
I’m not particularly impressed with the quality of garments I find in stores, even high end stores, btw, so saying this is ‘industry standard’ leaves me cold.
Making muslins & slopes is de rigeur, of course.
Interested in your comments. Thank you for sharing.
I absolutely love your straightforward no nonsense delivery! I worked in a garment factory in my 20's topsitching straps and flaps for the military. Industrial sewing is so efficient because time is money and even in our homes our time is still valuable at 50 lol. I swear they instruct now to make it even more confusing, it's like they over explain.🤷♀️ Love your channel and I am going to look into your books too!
The problem is that even in the industry most don't have these skills. I was fortunate to have wonderful mentors when I was in the industry. I was just in the right places at the right times.
@@laurelhoffmann1594Well THAT is priceless. I'm glad I have found your channel.
@@Fraususemil Thank you! You have made my day!
I was in the fashion industry too, and everything she said here is 100% correct! Home sewing patterns are the bane of my existence.
I had a sewing teacher once who was convinced home sewing patterns were deliberately designed to make clothing sewn from them "homemade".
I’m so grateful to have found you! You are a gem-new subscriber!
Thanks! I love doing this. It's fun.
I'm a beginner sewer (tho advanced knitter so I have some experience with garment design), and this video is incredibly informative! I hate when garments are supposed to be sized on the bust, as it leads to garments being way too big on me, so I tend to supplement it with shoulder circumference. I actually tried 1 pattern when learning to sew, though I got frustrated with it part way through and now I freehand using parts of garments i like (like how the sleeve fits) when making my own clothes and I've found it much easier, though I'm definitely guilty of just folding to cut and I didn't realize how much it would affect the width. I don't think I would have learned that without this video, since imo, alot of sewing (and knitting) youtube is beginners trying to profit and clout chase without actually knowing how to properly sew.
Fantastic video. Thanks for this helpful information and alerting sewers to the possibility (probability) of problems with commercial patterns.
I graduated from an apparel manufacturing and design program 20 years ago, but didn’t sew in the interim. Now I’m trying to sew for myself using home sewing patterns. You are such a gem to find as I try to remember what I learned about industrial sewing. I was never a home sewer. (I worked for a men’s accessories company) ❤
You were lucky to be taught manufacturing techniques. As I understand it, most programs aren't teaching industrial sewing, at least that is how I found it when I taught in college. It is fairly common for industry's designing departments to hire off the street because the fashion graduates have so much to unlearn and such unrealistic expectations. I always found the easiest students to teach were those who had no previous sewing instruction.
Hi. Interesting video ! But there are some points you make that I don’t fully agree.
You chose the most expensive pattern company as an example. Almost all other pattern companies are far cheaper than Vogue.😅 So paying 30$ for a patterns is definitely not the norm. For me it’s usually between 3-15€ for single patterns and about 8-10€ for magazines with several patterns. I think the most I ever paid was 18€ for a single pattern from an independent French company. But it was worth it. I made a beautiful red trench coat from that patterns which I still love.
I started sewing around 2014 and made my first garment (a skirt ) about a year later. Of course I had a few fails over the years but have made a lot of great fitting garments , too. But through the fails I learned a lot and I appreciate that.
I don’t think it’s fair and realistic to compare an industrial setting with a home sewers setting. For example I wouldn’t have enough space at home to spread the fabric so cutting on the fold is more convenient. My dining table is my sewing space. And it’s not that big. This might be different in the US where everything is bigger 😜 but here in Germany apartments and houses are smaller I think.
For me part of the hobby of sewing is also the fun of buying different patterns and sharing them with sewing friends. For some people it might be fun to draft their own patterns from a sloper. But for me that’s just not the case right now.
I also appreciate having more than one size in a pattern. I never fit only one size. My bottom half has always been a little bigger than the top. I often grade between sizes which is not a big deal at all. I also almost always have to lengthen the sleeves and sometimes the bodice. But these are very easy adjustments. Granted it would be different if I had to adjust for a different size bust or a broader back. Then I believe it could be useful to draft your own pattern. With the different sizes I can also easily share the patterns with friends or make it in another size years later.
Regarding seam allowance, it differs from company to company. As a German I sometimes use Burda patterns from the Burda Magazine or the online shop. They don’t have seam allowances included and I add them myself. There are also different European patterns makers that have smaller seam allowances. But you are right. 1,5 cm is used most often.
Sorry for the lengthy comment. Hope you are not offended. I will definitely watch more of your videos because I am eager to learn from you.
Thank you for this particular video. I once had a seamstress and had beautiful fitting clothing, and I am trying my best to learn to make my own patterns and sew my own clothing correctly. You are right, the professionals who sew clothing in factories will probably never share their techniques. This is so sad for home sewers, who may not have had home economics at their schools and are dependent on the terrible pattern companies. I used two commercial patterns this year: one had issues I could correct and the other was a simple robe with the tie on the left side. It was an utter disaster; the important seams were mismatched (the collar/band) and not only did not line up with the shoulder seams, but were too short to end at the proper placement on the center front. No more commercial patterns for me. I will be buying your books and will watch the rest of your videos. You are a gem and really deserve kudos for doing what is right. Thank you so much for sharing you knowledge with us.
I was really happy to find some 40 year old videos by Margaret Islander by trying to find a video on how to sew without pins because they don't use pins in industrial sewing- too time consuming
It's not that the professionals don't want to share their information, it's that they are working full time, may not have writing or teaching skills, or if they do, may not have any way to test if their writing works. I have been extremely lucky - first with the mentors I had in industry - three European master tailors, the top layout artist at Alfred Angelos, the top grader in the Philadelphia area. Then, because the industry was moving off shore, being hired, in spite of being a woman, to run a factory. Years later, after having high success with my daughter's 4-H club, I was asked to teach in college. After five years teaching degree fashion students, I was asked to teach continuing education students, which later included design-room professionals. Just incredible luck!
@@laurelhoffmann1594What an incredible career!
@@SyKnife Thanks! It was all accidental. I never had any desire to work in the fashion industry. I started out with a major in journalism. It was my mother's idea that I switch to fashion . I think she wanted me to make clothes for her. Then the college dropped the program. I sewed for others before leaving home to make some money, then moved to the city in hopes of doing better. I was good at it, but the only reason I went into the industry was because I couldn't make any money doing custom sewing.
@@CeresIsABetterPlanetThanPluto Margaret Islander was the first to go into industry to learn how industry sews. She was an outstanding pioneer.
Well, they don't use pins on the line, as she said. However, when I worked in the couture department at Alfred Angelos' where I was an assistant designer, we did a lot of pinning to hold the lace applique in place before it was machine sewn to the wedding gowns, which sold for over $10,000 back in the late 1960s.
However, when I sew I don't pin straight seams as I sew notch-to-notch, as done in industry. But tricky spots sometimes need to be pinned. I know sample making, but I'm not a sample maker, so I'm not the speed ball they are.
What a treasure you must be to your students. I love the straight, no nonsense teaching. You remind me of my professors at FIT.
Thanks!
Thank you, Laurel! I am so glad you showed up in my feed! ❤
So am I! Thank you!
I've always loved using multi sized patterns because I have a weird size body so i can adjust every thing to fit me very well
I hear you. I found that many people have "weird" size bodies. I think, when we get down to it, just about everyone does.
I love your no bs approach. As a slim petite with an H bust, no pattern fits me. Even the pictures in the burda pattern books show garnments that look horrible. And they are expensive
You can have clothes that fit. I couldn't believe the fit problems that came up in my classes. It was an education. But from what you have said, I suspect you have a model's figure and would good in just about anything, if it were designed to fit you.
Just found your channel--don't know where it came from but it is what I've wanted FOREVER!! THANK YOU!! Where is the best place to start and go through your videos in a systematic order? Thank you, dear lady!
You can start anywhere. The books were written so that most of their courses could be taken in any order. My students were career personnel who already had hectic schedules. Setting up the courses so they had to be taken in a certain order would have been difficult for the students the program attracted. The videos, so far, contain basic information. Watch them in any order because there is no precise order to them anyway.
Instantly obsessed. The only instructor I need now.
I have just found your channel, and boy am I glad I have! I am middle-aged and started to sew last year; I have learned a fair amount, but this is information is on another level. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge with us all.
Thanks for your compliment. More coming.
I love your style of teaching. Thank you so much.
I was so lucky to be asked to teach in college. My program attracted professional men and women, some from the industry. Working first with degree students, then with professionals helped me develop my teaching method. I owe so much to my students. My videos are the result of my interactions with those students. They are the ones to thank.
So happy to have found your channel!
I'm happy that you did!
You are the first person who actually does not add seam allowance to patterns. I always mark without seam allowance.I usuall
I add or reduce the seam allowances on my patterns to conform with what the industry does. When I cut the pattern pieces from the fabric they have the seam allowances on them that I plan to use. Then I sew on gauge. This eliminates trimming the seam allowances after the seams are sewn. When I worked on Main Line, where I was being trained by two European master tailors, we marked the seam lines on the fabric, sewed the seams, then trimmed the seam allowances. But I've found doing it the way industry does saves me considerable time.
Ohh my goodness. I'm so happy that I found you❤
What a nice thing to say! Thanks!
Wow I love listening to you ..sure wish you had been my home ec teacher ..I'm learning so much thank you
NO, NO, NO! I could NEVER have been your home ec teacher. :-)) Home ec is over 100 years out of date. This is industrial couture! How the professionals do it for preferred customers. Much of the work I did in industry was shown only to customers who could easily afford clothing that cost in the thousands of dollars. Want to make clothes you could NEVER afford to buy? Watch my videos.
Wow, I’m so happy your channel was suggested to me! This is great information. I love your delivery-straight to the point!
Thank my previous continuing-education students. That's the method that worked with them, so I'm still using it.
Thanks! Others need this information that I wish I had when I was trying to sew. When I was a teen I would buy a pattern and some fabric in the five and ten. I was so excited. I was convinced I would have something really pretty to wear when I would finish. But in the end I had spent my money and my time only to be so disappointed.
I have sewn since 7th gr & am now 77. This has been my hobby. Your youtube helped explain some of my fitting problems. I have sewn my daughters' clothes, mine & now have moved on to making quilts, 450 COVID masks, purses, tiny coin purses, doll clothes cabbage patch dolls, double scrunchies, etc. During COVID, I gave away COVID masks for Hollween trick or treaters. They were thrilled to get them!
Yes, yes, yes! Laurel. I studied at a trade school and learned production sewing and pattern drafting. Thats when i finally enjoyed sewing. I dont know why colleges continue to use commercial patterns when teaching sewing. I say no more commercial patterns in fashion design programs. Its so wrong.
Right you are!
It's soooo hard to learn sewing on your own, I wish I had a teacher like you. Commercial clothing is ugly and doesn't fit my body type. Made a few garments by Style arc, still look like a potatoes, but at least I made them... Thank you for your honesty and your resources!
I just came across your channel Laurel and as a home sewist your insights are extremely useful. Thanks for taking the time to pass on this information.
Thank you so much for your response. You and others like you should have this information.
You have explained so clearly all the areas of pattern use I have issues with and end up doing it my way. Thankyou and look forward to buying your books
You're on point. I've always thought patterns made you lose to much fabrics. I have patterns from the 1950's. Vogue is my favorite
I've always loved Vogue too. But I found that Butterick was a good less expensive version of Vogue. These days I just take clothes out on my charge and copy their patterns. The best patterns are those from industry. Simpler, easier to use, current style.
This was a fabulous video! I loved learning a little history as you talk about this. I will watch everything you've done! I learned basic sewing from my grandmother, but now, I have no one to consult as I try to revisit sewing! Thank you for your generosity!
Thanks! You've made my day!
Thanks so much laurel,
I appreciate what your teaching us .
Anything that makes the finished product not only better but quite to make ,
Is just fabulous
Hello Laurel, so good to see you. Hope you and your family are all well and happy.
I used a commercial pattern for a shift in high school home ec in the 1960's then I copied the basics of that to design my prom gown in 1971. I used a Simplicity pattern once around that time. The dress didn't last because it was all one piece including the sleeves which soon tore at the under arms. I don't think I have used a commercial pattern since except some Barbie doll clothes. I draft from books or my own ideas. I mostly make circle skirts.
Absolutely love you mam. The history the accountability and the details are just so right. Good on you.
Thank you! What a nice compliment!
Wow! I learned something new! Thank you for sharing this great information!
Thanks so much for your compliment, Kelly Jo!
As a pattern maker for 30 yrs in the industry , patterns are drafted on the fold, but patterns are not cut on any folds. I do agree store bought patterns can be very confusing to beginners and home sewers. No wonder some get discouraged. We use 1/2 " seam allowances and 1/4" seam allowances. I drafted patterns on the table, and also on Gerber CAD. I also did grading on table and in CAD, I disagree with the notch placements, they will grade automatically with sleeve cap notches also the armhole notches grade automatically. I drafted all patterns from scratch and did not use blocks or slopers.
Thanks for commenting, Debra. I find the sleeve notches in home-sewing patterns don't match up. We had to walk all the sleeve notches around the armholes when I worked in industry. All of the grading I did was with a hand-grader. It may be that the computer programmers have fixed that problem.
@@laurelhoffmann1594 yes, that could be true. I have also used that grading technique. They have come a long way with technology, I was disappointed to be retiring when the programs have now introduced avatars and actually simulating your pattern pieces to connect to each other and then the garment fits onto the avatar showing how it fits, drapes and where it might be tight or loose, etc. Amazing. Although I hate say it but it seems like a waste of time to me.
One apparel plant I worked in did Grading and Marker Making on Lectra CAD. I as a pattern maker asked my boss's boss, why there was no patternmaking
on the CAD as that was all done by hand on the table. He told me because everyone knows it's faster. He worked in the rag trade in NYC, as his father owned an
apparel factory. Actually he was very young then so you could say he grew up in that industry. He also could do just about every job such as patternmaking, grading, costing , marker making, laying out fabric in the cutting room in addition the cutting as well. He could sew a garment together, he knew how to use the industrial sewing machines. Several years later I was employed at another plant as a pattern maker, only no table drafting, we had to draft patterns on Gerber
CAD. Wow, what a difference, I mean yes, it did take longer! Much longer. I couldn't believe it. Of course the only people that drafted patterns WERE the pattern maker's, and they never learned to draft a pattern from scratch even on the CAD. They of course used blocks/slopers.. The problem with that was if there was one a bit off, then if you used that block to start your own pattern you would repeat that same error over and over. I never used blocks, or if I did, it was one I created. My point here is that a very experienced pattern maker would agree it is much faster to draft a pattern on the table. My previous boss was right. Then we would digitize it into our computer and take a few secs to true it up, then grading began, which is more efficient on a CAD.
I studied Fashion Design, I already could sew, my mother taught me at 8 yrs old, and I could also alter my own commercial patterns growing up.....
when I studied pattern making I was hooked! I loved it! Never in a million yrs did I want to draft..anything for that matter as career. But I guess you could say it picked me, I excelled at it (if I do say so myself). I had that "spatial" type vision. Sometimes I could tell if a sleeve top would fit in an armhole by just looking at it. Also at one time I worked with a gentleman that was a patternmaker all his life. He taught some techniques that I don't remember seeing or reading in any pattern book. He showed me how to take one front piece of a pant and with the back piece lay out in such a fashion to determine the correct grain line and just by looking at how he laid the front on the back piece, you could see if your pant was balanced after the pant was sewn. I don't think I've ever come upon that in any pattern book and I have many just because I love them. I really miss my career. My son said to me when he was in his teens," Mom, I don't know anyone that likes to get up everyday and go to their job". Ha! So true.
And Laurel, I find your video's very interesting and I agree with you. I live in Pa. If you aren't far I would love to connect.
@@debraemig417 Great comments. Can't agree with you more. Sounds like you are a "natural" born talent. The fashion programs teach to use the computer. But how does anyone understand what the computer is doing if one can't do it on the table? I live in Oreland, just northwest of Philly. Would love to meet you in person. 215 84 7065 Laurel@Cfashionedu.com
Hi Laurel, great video, I am a guy who sees and I will look at more of your videos and your books. Thank you.
Thanks!
Laurel you are so cool, thanks for sharing your tips/grievances! Your wisdom and candor are much appreciated. I’m a 23 year old guy working on a dress for my mother for Christmas and it’s a bit ambitious for my beginner skill set, so videos like yours are so helpful!
Laurel, you are the best! Thank you for making this video.
Thanks! My pleasure.
I gave up in frustration when those patterns didn’t fit me. I regret giving up on fashion as I’ve discovered Zoe Hong and now your channel.
Guess what? Those patterns don't fit anyone. ;-)) They are drafted for an average size, which just about no one is. I had no idea, when I began teaching, how bad the problem is. I was a fit model in the industry, along with everything else. I'm one of those rare people who walk into a store and everything fits. But most people are wearing clothes that don't fit.
When one looks at others, it would seem as though their clothes fit, but fabric has a way of easing itself around us, giving the illusion.
Although I think, from fitting students, that approximately one out of every seventeen people has an asymmetrical body, in my classes it was one in four! Horrors!!! So my books all address both symmetrical and asymmetrical fit and have many boxes that say, "If fitting an asymmetrical figure, turn to this page."
@ you would rage at the costume patterns, horrible! Even if you got good quality fabric, it looked horrible.
@@andreasfort1599 Halloween was always a big deal when my children were growing up. They could have any costume they wanted. But--- they never could understand why they were the first students whose identity their teacher guessed. Later my husband made home videos with them in costume. It was a lot of fun.
I agree with you Laurel! I never want someone to ask me if "I made it". There are so many patterns that look homemade right out of the pattern book! I don't know why you'd even bother!
Best sewing TH-camr out there love the videos and vibes
You made my day!
Wow, I am so glad that I found your channel. You are so full of information. I’m following my heart and starting on my sewing journey. i’m sure I am going to learn a lot from your videos. Thank you for sharing your information and knowledge and expertise.
Thanks! That's our aim.
Thank you for your youtube discussion. It shed some light as to why my grandau hter's flower girl dress was uncomfortanle under the armpits. I'm 77 & have sewn since I was in 7th grade. It has been my hobby & learned from many mistakes, but never gave up. I've quilted, sewn my daughters' clothes, my clothes, doll clothes, doll sleeping bags, 450 COVID masks, & many other items.
Thank you for making this video. So much useful information.
My pleasure.
Dang, this is brilliant! Just discovered you and look forward to following and unlearning all my old home ec habits!!!
I've been sewing off and on for the past 5 years bc i was fed up with fast fashion and i like 40's/50's style clothing more but i don't want to empty my bank account for that. I only found out last year i have a shorter torso, that was a lightbulb experiance. Although i use mostly Burda patterns and some big 4, i always needed to adjust them to make the clothes fit me. So i started learning to draft them myself and it is soooo much better. Everyone needs to learn how to sew it is such a valuable skill to have.
Hi Laurel are you the same instructor that taught factory methods at Philadelphia Textiles in Philadelphia PA? I wanted to take your certificate courses but children were young. I also fostered many children. But now I’m 61 and finally learning to sew. So glad I found you again.
Yes I am. I'm glad you did.
@@laurelhoffmann1594I attended Philadelphia Textile in 1978-80 as a textile design major. I regret that I didn’t take the advanced apparel design classes. I sewed all my clothes for years but stopped when the cost of fabrics and patterns rose. Currently I am interested in wearing quality garments and this has peaked my desire to sew my clothes again. I know that most home sewing patterns are problematic. Ready to wear “fast fashion” is so disappointing in fit and fabric quality. I am delighted to find your channel. You are a godsend to me now and hopefully have a second opportunity to learn from you. Thank you for inspiring a former design student.
@@muriellecurcio1494 Thank you so much!
Where have you been all my life?????!!!!!🙏💖
Thank you for exposing this, I need your books in my collection 📚
Thank you. Right now I'm trying to get supplies in, as I have orders that are waiting to be filled.
Interesting and informative video, great advice about seam allowances and zip applications, most people dont realise zips are usually sewn first and on the flat.....
As a commercial patternmaker working in manufacturing in Australia for 3+ decades. In Australia we have a body sizing standard (set by a government body) that is followed by most manufacturers. Most of our dummies are made within Australian standards...
Have never heard of using the underbust measurement as the guide to body fit to a store bought pattern.
I can see the relevance when doing custom made to fit, garments, for individual persons, which is done when measuring the person up for the first toile...
How can the underbust measurement be worked out on a store bought pattern? When the body size chart, printed on the pattern envelope only gives, full bust, waist and hip measurements...
The majority of home sewers would not think to convert a bra cup size into a pattern toile for a dress or fitted top unless they had patternmaking training.
From my observation the only women that would pay attention to this detail are women that wear d+ cup bras where their fronts have to be way bigger than the average body shape, prime example is Dolly Parton....
Have i missed something in this video about this?
There is only so much one can put in a video when dealing with a subject as complicated as grading. The problem with home-sewing patterns here in the United States is first that the patterns actually fit a B cup bust, two inches larger in circumference than stated on the pattern envelope. The pattern fits a chest measurement 2 inches less than the bust measurement stated on the envelope. This means that many, if not most women are choosing the wrong size pattern. Quite frankly, it's a mess. But the patterns can be of use, if one understands how to deal with these problems. "Grading to Fit," the book I wrote at my students request, addresses these problems. But it took 470 pages and a lot of classroom testing to get it right. The only reason I could write this book is because I did a lot of grading in industry before computers were introduced. Once this book was finished, the students needed two more books, "Grading and Sewing a Blouse to Fit" and "Grading a Jacket," in order to test their grading coordinates that would enable them to grade home-sewing patterns or other grade-rule patterns to a custom fit.
@laurelhoffmann1594 thank you for your reply, total agree about store patterns, their construction techniques haven't changed since the 40s-50s where sewing machines were very expensive and a lot was done by hand. Who sews interfacing onto a garment, ever!!!!
As a child in the 70s the patterns would totally flabbergast me, I wanted instructions that were commercial as garments sold in-store. That is what inspired me to work in design and shaping so I could achieve the looks that I saw in stores...
But I think the under bust measurement is more relevant for bridal and evening wear, which isn't the style of patterns you had in hand, which was more for tailoring outer garments.
Perhaps a video on specialty fittings for bridal and evening wear would be better suited alongside store bought patterns that are sold for that market.
Love your style, regards Minka😍
Very happy to have just found you !
I’ve sewn garments before ( since teenager) but always, a bit disappointed with fit etc. I went into quilting and enjoy it much. But now I feel like I can watch some of your video’s and possible be more successful with garments. Fingers crossed 🤞You’ve inspired me!
Thanks for such a nice compliment, Laura. Glad to help.
I just gave a very similar rant to my girlfriend the other day about knitting patterns. I self draft everything I knit because I cannot stand the way modern patterns are written. I don’t have any professional experience like you do. I’m 24 but I learned from the retired ladies at the local knitting shop when I was 7 and taught myself everything else from old books and stitch guides. I’ve taught dozens of people how to knit. I know I’m overgeneralizing but I keep seeing the same things keep happening. It feels like the knitters who learned in the last decade or so have no understanding as to how knitting actually works and why patterns are written how they are. They say they wish the sleeves were smaller as they are knitting it but don’t think to add in a few extra decreases. When you do not understand, you cannot create. I also see it coming out in people with a lot of experience who cannot figure out how to fix their mistakes because they don’t understand things like what it looks like when a knit and purl are stacked on top of each other. I only started seeing this new online knitting community and influencers within the last few months and it has felt like such a culture shock. I wish people understood the power and freedom that comes with knowing why things are done like this. I’ve always struggled with sewing because I never built that foundational understanding like I did with knitting and I am so thrilled to have come across your page. I plan to buy your books to have as my reference guides. Thank you for teaching people how to think for themselves.
WOW! Thanks!
Just 10 minutes in and i'm already baffled about the cut on the fold! Thanks for these informations!
I set my sleeves in with a serger. I changed the differential feed to 1.5, and the feed dogs adjusted the extra width. Depending on the fabric, there might not be any clipping. But I agree with you about the armhole; it is not correct. I am glad to find your channel.
The info presented has been what I found too. Thank you.
Thanks!
This is the best sewing info I've seen. Excellent.