Good video on how to get low cost PVC sheet from a pipe. For small sheets you don't need an oven and it only takes a few minutes. I just made a small three-inch square sheet the other day from one-inch Schd. 40. I cut a three-inch length from the pipe, split it lengthwise using tinsnips, heated it with a heat gun, clamped it between two boards and let it cool. With PVC sheets and PVC cement, you can make all kinds of stuff.
An easier way to make the first cut, instead of using clamps, is to tack it to a board with hot glue. The board slides along the fence -- which is positioned so the blade cuts through the bottom of the pipe. And the discoloration is typically from residue left on the pipe... not from burning the PVC.
i use heat gun to soften the pvc plastic.it wont take over a minute to soften it...too much effort on tightening those c clamps.=p just step on it for a while over a flat piece of wood until it cools down.it wont take a minute to do so.
Thanks for pointing that out. Fine for very small sections. Yes, you can use boiling water and I have transferred the boiling water to a remote location when I needed a radius on a application that was much too large for a standard household oven (or pot) . However, from an engineers safety perspective, I traded the handling of a hot piece of PVC for the handling of a hot piece of PVC AND a high energy fluid. Twice the risk factor for personal injury. My application was successful but nothing I would want to share and risk a liability issue. Boiling water, used remotely, has another disadvantage, as the water heat is transferred into a thick piece of PVC, there would be a need to replace the lost energy back into the water (meaning reintroduce more boiling water) until the PVC temperature is at equilibrium. I found this to rarely be practical . . . Especially considering that the temperature of boiling water is at the bare minimum required. And, of-course the further you stay away from the maximum temperature the PVC can handle, the less chance you will discolor the PVC. ( the trade off is reduced working time). Actually, I don't think I've ever flattened PVC that was small enough to fit my largest pot, it's just not practical for what I do. Regardless, your statement is correct and if someone just wanted a very small piece, a boiling pot may be most efficient. (or a hair dryer). Thanks Steve
I'm designing a dual keyboard stand for a computer. So I can run a laptop and PC with two different keyboards. I will design the sides to be printed on a 3D printer and use your technique to make two bases for the keyboards to lay on. What diameter PVC did you use in your demonstration?
Well, . . . I used a traditional oven not a Microwave. Slow heating helps counter the insulative properties of PVC, don't want the material surface to be much hotter than the internal mass. Slow heating facilitates that effort. Additionally, temperature range between restructuring physical memory and burning is small.A microwave would probably cause inconsistent results due to the microwave requiring moisture molecules to excite.Thanks for the question.
I'm just starting out crafting things. and have an odd question, trying to make some leg & knee guards or armor would 1/8" pvc be a good material vs knapped flint (razor sharp), brambles? Also; if not heated/cooled evenly will it create stress/fracture/weak points in the pvc while cooling? Thank you.
PVC would work great as a leg guard, 1/8" might be max because weight becomes a factor. Too little heat and the stuff won't bend (or stay bent), too high a heat and the stuff will start to discolor and burn (destroying the mechanical properties). But you only need to heat the portion needing a new bending memory. Regardless, avoid overheating and any shape will remain stress and fracture free. . . to the original properties of the PVC.
Made my first PVC sheet from 6" diameter pipe using this method. It worked great and was very easy to do. Thanks
Good video on how to get low cost PVC sheet from a pipe. For small sheets you don't need an oven and it only takes a few minutes. I just made a small three-inch square sheet the other day from one-inch Schd. 40. I cut a three-inch length from the pipe, split it lengthwise using tinsnips, heated it with a heat gun, clamped it between two boards and let it cool.
With PVC sheets and PVC cement, you can make all kinds of stuff.
I've been doing this for about 25 years. Works great. Thanks for sharing your process!
"I typically do this when the wife is not home" LOLMAO, yep grounds for banishment to the couch for awhile ;-)
Thank you for teaching me something new. I really never used pvc flat plastic. Good day too Bill.
I’m familiar with the dreaded stink eye :)
Brilliant video! Thanks from London England 👍💪😎🏴
Glad you enjoyed it
An easier way to make the first cut, instead of using clamps, is to tack it to a board with hot glue. The board slides along the fence -- which is positioned so the blade cuts through the bottom of the pipe.
And the discoloration is typically from residue left on the pipe... not from burning the PVC.
Does it smell when heated in the oven?
i use heat gun to soften the pvc plastic.it wont take over a minute to soften it...too much effort on tightening those c clamps.=p just step on it for a while over a flat piece of wood until it cools down.it wont take a minute to do so.
Great tip, THANK YOU!
you can place the cut PVC in a pot of boiling water take it out and flatten it works very well and it stays White
Thanks for pointing that out. Fine for very small sections. Yes, you can use boiling water and I have transferred the boiling water to a remote location when I needed a radius on a application that was much too large for a standard household oven (or pot) . However, from an engineers safety perspective, I traded the handling of a hot piece of PVC for the handling of a hot piece of PVC AND a high energy fluid. Twice the risk factor for personal injury. My application was successful but nothing I would want to share and risk a liability issue.
Boiling water, used remotely, has another disadvantage, as the water heat is transferred into a thick piece of PVC, there would be a need to replace the lost energy back into the water (meaning reintroduce more boiling water) until the PVC temperature is at equilibrium. I found this to rarely be practical . . . Especially considering that the temperature of boiling water is at the bare minimum required. And, of-course the further you stay away from the maximum temperature the PVC can handle, the less chance you will discolor the PVC. ( the trade off is reduced working time). Actually, I don't think I've ever flattened PVC that was small enough to fit my largest pot, it's just not practical for what I do. Regardless, your statement is correct and if someone just wanted a very small piece, a boiling pot may be most efficient. (or a hair dryer). Thanks Steve
I'm designing a dual keyboard stand for a computer. So I can run a laptop and PC with two different keyboards. I will design the sides to be printed on a 3D printer and use your technique to make two bases for the keyboards to lay on. What diameter PVC did you use in your demonstration?
I think it was 4" dia.
Why does it take 20 to 30 mins to soften the pvc using a microwave oven ?
Well, . . . I used a traditional oven not a Microwave. Slow heating helps counter the insulative properties of PVC, don't want the material surface to be much hotter than the internal mass. Slow heating facilitates that effort. Additionally, temperature range between restructuring physical memory and burning is small.A microwave would probably cause inconsistent results due to the microwave requiring moisture molecules to excite.Thanks for the question.
I'm just starting out crafting things. and have an odd question, trying to make some leg & knee guards or armor would 1/8" pvc be a good material vs knapped flint (razor sharp), brambles? Also; if not heated/cooled evenly will it create stress/fracture/weak points in the pvc while cooling? Thank you.
PVC would work great as a leg guard, 1/8" might be max because weight becomes a factor. Too little heat and the stuff won't bend (or stay bent), too high a heat and the stuff will start to discolor and burn (destroying the mechanical properties). But you only need to heat the portion needing a new bending memory. Regardless, avoid overheating and any shape will remain stress and fracture free. . . to the original properties of the PVC.
@@engineershomeworkshop2692 Thanks for the info! :)
Subbed.
WOW!
Lengthy process and expensive!
What do you recommend?