Great video, thanks for taking the time to make and post it. I really like my SM - it’s a Felder saw/spindle, and whilst nothing has yet fallen into the gap between the two fences, I feel it’s just a matter of time. Thanks to this video I’m going to make a zero clearance fence the next time I use it. It just looks so much safer.
No worries. They aren't necessary for every cut, bu sure help with bigger cuts or smaller pieces! Once you have a few they quite often work with different cuts!
Great video, I have to write on my fences what they were for, cutters used etc. otherwise I can get in a proper muddle when I need them again. Thanks for making this the Felder looks nice.
Haha yes it can get a bit like that, I just use them if they kinda fit and make a new one if i need to next time haha. The felder is great, no complaints from me tbh. I came from a Wadkin BEM which is an absolute beast, but the Felder with its features is much more useable, user friendly and more capable with the tilting spindle and micro fence adjustment.
Always good useful tips from you, spot on. I bit the bullet a couple of years ago now and bought a pair of Aigner finger fences. Once you’ve used them you will never go back. So much safer, quicker to set up and a joy to use. Check them out, if you haven’t already. A guy in the States called Steve “The Extreme Woodworker” does lots of good demos on them. I directed him over to you for your ring fence demo, he was suitable impressed👍
I see a few people with the aigner fences now, Ill have another look. I do quite like a false fence (probably because its cheap) haha but can defintley see the advantage of the aigner for day to day stuff. New yorkshire made his own version didnt he!
@@BradshawJoinery yes he did but TBH I think he would skin a fart if he could! Sometimes you just have to put your hand in your pocket, something New Yorkshire finds very difficult to do!! 🤣🤣
Awesome Oliver! You ever forget to tighten the main fence locking bolts… then start machining and it gradually gets deeper into the material 😳 ask me how I know 😂 Got that exact same groove cutter, use it for tenon on sash meeting rail in conjunction with a saw blade of same diameter and about a .75 mm spacer gives me my 9.5 mm tenon, I just wind up grooves to thickness of stock and it does a brilliant job. ( obviously you have the face side shoulder to remove but that’s easy enough on radial arm ) Fantastic tips again! Necessity is the mother of invention in the one man workshop game 😂
Lol of course not! 😂😂😂😂😂 Nice work, I've always cut the tenon thickness on the bandsaw but I guess that is a bloody good method of doing it! 👀😂 I'm surprised by the reaction to this, I felt quite a common knowledge thing but maybe I should do more spindle videos!
@@BradshawJoinery absolutely! And you’re saving lives if not just fingers! I’ve had all sorts of contraptions on there, and this is quick and simple! And you hit repeatability with simple little hacks like the pen marks! I’d only have domino’s it together. I did a similar thing ages ago and thought ( incredibly stupidly that if I gently eAsed it in I might get away with it! I almost did…. Until it grabbed! Sent it flying to the workshop door halving a 2 x 2 stick of rosewood on its way! Bloody idiot and bloody lucky!( it was big enough my hands were well away, but I’m not recommending it 😂)
@@BradshawJoinery I’ll put a little clip running some meeting rail tenon next time I’m doing it. All you have to remember is when you mortise for top sash, YOU MUST reference off the rebate side against Morticer fence as that’s your reference side, as the splay on meeting rail Is always up. 👍🏻 and only that mortise on the stile!! ( you flip it arse for end 👍🏻) You set it all up off a tenon on a rail you’ve just run so it’s quick and accurate. If that is the same as mine it should be about 165 mm dia? In which case we can get cheap ‘Irwin’ blades out here, and I got my old engineer mate to make center hole suit my spindle ( 31.75)
I watched that video before actually, it would be handy at times yes! Have to be careful of the gaps in the fence if running mouldings that sit on a small point against the fence but they are good! He's a great talent for designing and making that. A false fence is dead simple though and probably the safest. Method of using a spindle 👍
Good stuff, great to see folks promoting safer qork. MDF is pretty food for that because it's reliably flat etc, but I usually use solid wood for HSS knives in a limiter block or similar.
Yes good shout, I didn't mention that! Tbh I normally use birch ply, I don't ever use MDF really, not even sure where this bit came from but it caught my eye! Hope your well!
Cheers Karl, you could do with the clamps, but a screw is dead simple and also clamps right next to the cutter.... where you need it! if the clamp sticks beyond the face it becoms a problem at some point in setting up powerfeed or running timber is certain orientations and then housing the clamps in will take time!
Really useful video, how about doing one for those who may be wanting to upgrade from router table to spindle moulder, and what tooling you suggest they start with, I know the advice would have been useful when I upgraded.
Great tip, do you have a similar safe idea of how to cut the end part of a beam on amoulder that dont have a sliding table? I've never dared to do that even though I need to sometimes.
@@BradshawJoinery Hi, thank you so much for the prompt reply! I'm not sure how you mean, is it something like the same wood fence as in this video, but make the bottom part 4 decimeter wider, and then rotate it 90 degrees so the vertical part is like a sledge behind the wood beam I need to cut, and then fixate a clamp on top of the "sledge" that lock the beam down towards the wood-bottom? Even if it wasn't what you meant I think that could work as a safe Solution?
www.etsy.com/uk/BradshawJoinery/listing/1234343315/bradshaw-joinery-sash-window-detailed?Copy&ListingManager&Share&.lmsm&share_time=1673782543559 Apologies i had copied but obviously not pasted it in the reply! Its a sketchup model, i will add screenshots of the cross sections in time
I end up using a false fence all the time on my spindle moulder. It's an absolutely terrible axminster machine and the fences are almost impossible to get coplanar or 90 degrees to the bed. I've found a false fence is the quickest and most straight forward way of getting around the inaccuracy of the machine. I went to have a look at a Felder F700z I'm keen to buy on Thursday, and the accuracy of the fence/hood mechanism is very impressive. I'm just hoping it saves me a lot of time in messing about finding suitable offcuts for false fences.
Yes they are great! They only become inacurate when dust gets between the fence and mounting plate, unavoidable on any machine. I only really use the false fence on intricate stuff and open fence work with big grooving cutters etc but useful tool to have!
@@BradshawJoinery Good to hear you like the F700 fence - when I looked at one it was nice to see that the hood was actually milled to 90 degrees, and the fence depth was adjustable whilst keeping the whole assembly parallel. I've never really been quite sure why so many spindle moulder fence/hood assemblies are so rudimentary. Also, have you ever considered the Aigner fence as an addition? They always look like a everyday alternative to a false fence - shame they're so damn expensive.
I'm sure if one came with one I wouldn't refuse, but for general day to day duties I think the normal fences are fine! False fence for dodgy stuff. You know... The type of big cutters you have to close your eyes or use a broom handle to turn the machine on with... 😂😂
@@BradshawJoinery ha. I know that feeling all to well. I've been known to hide under the machine whilst turning it on for the first time with large cutters in. I recently got some Whitehill tenoning discs and when they're spinning it's a bit like turning a leaf blower on. Scary things
You are obviously not a qualified machinist, have you ever read the PUWER98 regs or the ACoP on the spindle moulder, since the 1974 machine you are supposed to use face boards, and a Shaw guard, where are yours? I'm qualified
very eye opening. I’ve been doing woodworking for longer than you are alive and you just taught an old dog a new trick! 🐕 THANKS!
well thats good to hear Allen, All the best mate :)
Very clear and informative. Always good to see safer means of carrying out tasks.
Cheers Jim, yes definitley!!!
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make and post it.
I really like my SM - it’s a Felder saw/spindle, and whilst nothing has yet fallen into the gap between the two fences, I feel it’s just a matter of time. Thanks to this video I’m going to make a zero clearance fence the next time I use it. It just looks so much safer.
No worries. They aren't necessary for every cut, bu sure help with bigger cuts or smaller pieces! Once you have a few they quite often work with different cuts!
Great video, I have to write on my fences what they were for, cutters used etc. otherwise I can get in a proper muddle when I need them again. Thanks for making this the Felder looks nice.
Haha yes it can get a bit like that, I just use them if they kinda fit and make a new one if i need to next time haha. The felder is great, no complaints from me tbh. I came from a Wadkin BEM which is an absolute beast, but the Felder with its features is much more useable, user friendly and more capable with the tilting spindle and micro fence adjustment.
Great video, thanks for posting it.
I often use an outboard fence and feeder for that…Although of course I can’t use for end work on narrow pieces.
Thanks Rob, anything to keep things safe and produce the desired result is all good!
Thanks for your time! I love your videos, of much valuable content for me!! Keep Going and take care!
Thankyou and no problem atall!
Wow... I'm loving all your videos great in-depth step by step and easy to follow Thanks 👍👍👍👍
No worries Carl 👍👍
Always good useful tips from you, spot on. I bit the bullet a couple of years ago now and bought a pair of Aigner finger fences. Once you’ve used them you will never go back. So much safer, quicker to set up and a joy to use. Check them out, if you haven’t already. A guy in the States called Steve “The Extreme Woodworker” does lots of good demos on them. I directed him over to you for your ring fence demo, he was suitable impressed👍
I see a few people with the aigner fences now, Ill have another look. I do quite like a false fence (probably because its cheap) haha but can defintley see the advantage of the aigner for day to day stuff. New yorkshire made his own version didnt he!
@@BradshawJoinery yes he did but TBH I think he would skin a fart if he could! Sometimes you just have to put your hand in your pocket, something New Yorkshire finds very difficult to do!! 🤣🤣
🤣🤣🤣👌
I don't think I'll be making one. The time that must have taken!
Awesome Oliver!
You ever forget to tighten the main fence locking bolts… then start machining and it gradually gets deeper into the material 😳 ask me how I know 😂
Got that exact same groove cutter, use it for tenon on sash meeting rail in conjunction with a saw blade of same diameter and about a .75 mm spacer gives me my 9.5 mm tenon, I just wind up grooves to thickness of stock and it does a brilliant job. ( obviously you have the face side shoulder to remove but that’s easy enough on radial arm )
Fantastic tips again! Necessity is the mother of invention in the one man workshop game 😂
Lol of course not! 😂😂😂😂😂
Nice work, I've always cut the tenon thickness on the bandsaw but I guess that is a bloody good method of doing it! 👀😂
I'm surprised by the reaction to this, I felt quite a common knowledge thing but maybe I should do more spindle videos!
@@BradshawJoinery absolutely! And you’re saving lives if not just fingers!
I’ve had all sorts of contraptions on there, and this is quick and simple! And you hit repeatability with simple little hacks like the pen marks!
I’d only have domino’s it together.
I did a similar thing ages ago and thought ( incredibly stupidly that if I gently eAsed it in I might get away with it! I almost did…. Until it grabbed! Sent it flying to the workshop door halving a 2 x 2 stick of rosewood on its way! Bloody idiot and bloody lucky!( it was big enough my hands were well away, but I’m not recommending it 😂)
@@BradshawJoinery I’ll put a little clip running some meeting rail tenon next time I’m doing it.
All you have to remember is when you mortise for top sash, YOU MUST reference off the rebate side against Morticer fence as that’s your reference side, as the splay on meeting rail Is always up. 👍🏻 and only that mortise on the stile!! ( you flip it arse for end 👍🏻)
You set it all up off a tenon on a rail you’ve just run so it’s quick and accurate.
If that is the same as mine it should be about 165 mm dia? In which case we can get cheap ‘Irwin’ blades out here, and I got my old engineer mate to make center hole suit my spindle ( 31.75)
Super safe 👍
Cheers Gavin
Great video, very helpful. Have you thought of a folding finger style fence like New Yorkshire Workshop made. I can see the benefits of both
I watched that video before actually, it would be handy at times yes! Have to be careful of the gaps in the fence if running mouldings that sit on a small point against the fence but they are good! He's a great talent for designing and making that. A false fence is dead simple though and probably the safest. Method of using a spindle 👍
Aigner fences are absolute rubbish . They are expensive and don’t offer anything especially when it comes to specialist machining job .
Good stuff, great to see folks promoting safer qork. MDF is pretty food for that because it's reliably flat etc, but I usually use solid wood for HSS knives in a limiter block or similar.
Just picked up a Wadkin Bursgreen BRA 350 by the way!
Yes good shout, I didn't mention that!
Tbh I normally use birch ply, I don't ever use MDF really, not even sure where this bit came from but it caught my eye! Hope your well!
great video and very informative , real solutions for a real world . have you thought of holding the jigs in place using a Matchfit clamp ?
Cheers Karl, you could do with the clamps, but a screw is dead simple and also clamps right next to the cutter.... where you need it! if the clamp sticks beyond the face it becoms a problem at some point in setting up powerfeed or running timber is certain orientations and then housing the clamps in will take time!
Really useful video, how about doing one for those who may be wanting to upgrade from router table to spindle moulder, and what tooling you suggest they start with, I know the advice would have been useful when I upgraded.
ill look into it Richard
Great info! What is the spindle molder you use please?
Thanks Michael this is a Felder F700z a 2003 model. 5.5kw tilting with motorised rise and fall. 3 phase so it's also reversible spindle
Great tip, do you have a similar safe idea of how to cut the end part of a beam on amoulder that dont have a sliding table? I've never dared to do that even though I need to sometimes.
Make a table that life's on the bed is your best bet, that the piece clamps into.
@@BradshawJoinery Hi, thank you so much for the prompt reply! I'm not sure how you mean, is it something like the same wood fence as in this video, but make the bottom part 4 decimeter wider, and then rotate it 90 degrees so the vertical part is like a sledge behind the wood beam I need to cut, and then fixate a clamp on top of the "sledge" that lock the beam down towards the wood-bottom? Even if it wasn't what you meant I think that could work as a safe Solution?
Hi Oliver, I was wondering how I can buy your sliding box sash window drawings that you offered for sale on another of your videos? Thank you
Hi James, I have the drawing on Etsy , Its Priced with a view that if you need some help with it i'm only a message away. :)
@@BradshawJoinery Fantastic Oliver, thank you. Don't suppose you could ping me a link to the Etsy page? Thanks again. James
www.etsy.com/uk/BradshawJoinery/listing/1234343315/bradshaw-joinery-sash-window-detailed?Copy&ListingManager&Share&.lmsm&share_time=1673782543559
Apologies i had copied but obviously not pasted it in the reply! Its a sketchup model, i will add screenshots of the cross sections in time
I end up using a false fence all the time on my spindle moulder. It's an absolutely terrible axminster machine and the fences are almost impossible to get coplanar or 90 degrees to the bed. I've found a false fence is the quickest and most straight forward way of getting around the inaccuracy of the machine. I went to have a look at a Felder F700z I'm keen to buy on Thursday, and the accuracy of the fence/hood mechanism is very impressive. I'm just hoping it saves me a lot of time in messing about finding suitable offcuts for false fences.
Yes they are great! They only become inacurate when dust gets between the fence and mounting plate, unavoidable on any machine.
I only really use the false fence on intricate stuff and open fence work with big grooving cutters etc but useful tool to have!
@@BradshawJoinery Good to hear you like the F700 fence - when I looked at one it was nice to see that the hood was actually milled to 90 degrees, and the fence depth was adjustable whilst keeping the whole assembly parallel. I've never really been quite sure why so many spindle moulder fence/hood assemblies are so rudimentary. Also, have you ever considered the Aigner fence as an addition? They always look like a everyday alternative to a false fence - shame they're so damn expensive.
I'm sure if one came with one I wouldn't refuse, but for general day to day duties I think the normal fences are fine! False fence for dodgy stuff. You know... The type of big cutters you have to close your eyes or use a broom handle to turn the machine on with... 😂😂
@@BradshawJoinery ha. I know that feeling all to well. I've been known to hide under the machine whilst turning it on for the first time with large cutters in. I recently got some Whitehill tenoning discs and when they're spinning it's a bit like turning a leaf blower on. Scary things
Do you use both extractor ports ? 80mm on head and 120mm on base ? Nice machine , I have the F900 model and have not switched it on yet !!!
Hi Roger, yes ive got both ports connected to a 150mm y splitter, one side reduced to 120, the other 80? (dont know actual size off hand)
Still always get a bit twitchy breaking through a false fence. Only been 10 years. 😬
its all good, not had a bad experience yet! touch wood !
I am still twitchy after 40 years! never let your guard down these things can bite.
You are obviously not a qualified machinist, have you ever read the PUWER98 regs or the ACoP on the spindle moulder, since the 1974 machine you are supposed to use face boards, and a Shaw guard, where are yours? I'm qualified
Hi Mark, yes i know the regulation. I will try to adjust so videos dont feature any bad habits in future.