Spindle Moulder Tips - Improve Finish Quality with This
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 เม.ย. 2024
- A quick video mid production about the use of a back fence on a spindle moulder to support the workpiece as it runs through the machine. This helps with safety and finish quality. Also really loving the Airshield mask for the really dusty jobs around the workshop. Link below.
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Some channels need to shorten their videos but yours are fine as they are 😊
Wouldn't you believe it us cranked up spindle moulder today for the first time in ages and spent my Sunday knocking out mouldings. Then what do I watch for entertainment?
Haha, bus mans holiday that
Add a spacer on the outfeed side of the fence to keep the bottom from rolling in. Your way works well with an auto feeder. if you are trying to do it without one the spacer really helps. You do some awesome work man.
Cheers Ethan! yeah can do, ive not done much with manual aids/without the powerfeed to be honest!
nice and very informative video! well done!
Its funny, been using a shaper (spindle molder for you English types😂) for a long time. Never used my outboard fence this way! Always used it for dimensioning stuff to big for the regular molder. Flipping the powerfeeder for face pressure is such a pain the butt. I'll have to remember this the next time 👍👍👍
Great bit of creativity Ollie, Spindle Moulders scare the S*** out of me !!
Hearing the drone of that moulder head spinning up is intimidating even just through the speakers
This block isnt for you... its practically muted in the videos, but you can feel the resonation from it in your chest cavity when near it, huge cutters, hence the dust being everywhere, it throws a right draft off from it, and the extraction is strong.
Binbag1010, talk about frightening, my dad worked in a joiners shop at ICI Doncaster, he was at the back of the spindle moulder when a cutter snapped, hit the machinist at the side of his mouth, came along the cheek to his ear, then buried itself 25mm into a brick wall, dad was glad he was labouring that day. Machinist back at work quite quickly, no fear at all. OLD SCHOOL!!
@@brianbostock1698jim do me a favour pull this out ! Said Mike. A shard of timber came back out of the infeed as he finished feeding in and nailed three fingers together 😮 i cant pull that out mate you’ll have to go to hospital, and they pulled it out for him, and yes back at work next day.
@@brianbostock1698 They don't make 'em like that any more Ollie LOL.
Came for the video but stayed for the waffle at the end!
Like the details of your macine set up videos!
At college my bench was right next to the moulder, scary watching all the furniture guys coming in to use it, knowing I'd have to at some point to make my little half glazed door
Perfection Acheived !!! Again Oliver !!!! Joy to watch ........thank you
Thankyou Michael :)
I never used a finger board, always used a fixed board, G clamped to the spindle moulder bed. Nice Tulip wood. I always found Duffield timber was the best, for quality.
When I was going to furniture making classes the only piece of machinery the students weren’t allowed to operate was the spindle Moulder. I was very grateful for that as it was very scary. Cheers 🇦🇺
Thanks Jenny, its not something you want to be taught quickly. Probably best to spend time with an experienced operator taking pieces off the machine/ watching for a few days before being supervised, doing simpler stuff on one.
Great video Oliver, thank you! More tips like this please.
Great info. Thanks for sharing and keep on keeping on. Love your content.
Excellent instructional video! thank you
Been a subscriber for some time now and still have no connection to carpentry but these are the videos I like most - you passing on your skills and knowledge which you've gained from experience. I hope your viewers "in the trade" appreciate your efforts and free advice! Keep it up Ollie!
That is such a useful tip, I have been wrestling with some architrave that is 100mm wide and to be honest all of the pieces were coming out with waves in them. Trying to mitre joint them was a nightmare.
Yeah this will help for sure! Just get the timber nice and even thickness or youll be swearing as you push them through
Thanks Ollie. The fence is a brilliant idea. Finished making mine today and although I thought I'd set it up correctly (just like yours) I'm still getting the slightest bit of snipe on the trailing end of the stock. It's a double bevel on a tambour slat so still planty of meat left on the edge but i get the slightest amount of snipe (which is really bugging me!). Thanks for the video. Cheers, David
Have a hammer c3 41. This is very helpful stuff, thanks
Great content and some great ideals 👏thanks Oliver
Thankyou!
Thanks Oliver. Yet more invaluable advice…
Always enjoy your videos.
Thakyou Colin :)
Right on time 😂 Just saved me some hassle seeing that skirting being fed through! Had it in mind that I’d need to support the full height of the board for some reason… 👍
You can flip the wheels 90 degrees and press the board against the fence, but this way, if you can raise the wheels high enough is very consistent.
I have become a lot more comfortable with the spindle moulder this past year and this video helped reinforce this technique. Great tips and nice cabinet!
Nice one, never get too comfortable with it
Oh and I primed and painted every piece ! I used a premium pine with no knots ! Its was a good job just time consuming ! The customer wanted a one off base no one else had and wanted it done very tight with little to no caulk.
It looks like u hv some priming & painting to do !
Ahh yeah, dont think im painting these, but they still sit in my store, ill probably end up sanding them but might have a nice little something to help with that!
I have hardwood fixed to my fence, so i can screw or nail a false fence of plywood to it so only the cutters and limiters project toward the work. you can then screw a relief profile(battan)to it and this lets the work ride along it. No chance of the work tipping under and into the cutters. I would also put a false bed on, so the pressure of the feed is equal along the whole run, and with thinner mouldings, it does not dip into the well. You can then use the pressure board or featherboard to push the work into the fence.( Just as you have there)
A great idea to cut away the majority of material ! Another way is to run the work over the saw, cutting grooves to allow the cutter to rotate and only cut a minimal shoulder.
This retains the square profile as it rides on the infeed fence, again no chance of tipping.
Stay safe, great work!
Good afternoon Oliver. Great video as always giving extremely useful tips. Keep up the good work 🌞
Hey Ray, hope you are ok! Thankyou
@@BradshawJoinery I’m doing OK thank you. I appreciate your quick response 🌞
So funny that you have taken all your cutterheads and knives and put them in drawers. I just took all of my cutterheads etc. out of a drawer, and put them on the wall!! 😆
Haha! Different strokes for different folks. I'm trying to get everything "bolted down" so I can clean the workshop down with the leaf blower daily and easily 👍
@@BradshawJoinery Fair enough. I would have left it all in the drawers, but in the new shop, it's just not convenient where it is.
I really needed to see this. Never thought of this for face-shaping a tall piece (i'm currently doing that). I have been climb-cutting with the powerfeeder running vertically (wheels pushing against the fence) but still getting snipe (and a teeny bit of ripple but nothing that can't be sanded out with 220). I'm going to reconfigure using a fence like this and give it a whirl! thanks!
No worries and thanks for saying! You could use a false fence to stop the snipe, probably go hand in hand with the back fence. How youve been doing it with the addition fo false fence would be most trouble free way probably.
I have a six head moulding machine and even running two sets of knives….one hogging set and one profile set this deep profile with a thin edge is difficult to produce with no chatter due to pressure shoe issues. Good job
Cheers mate, im sure itll pass most folk by how tricky it can be to machine some stuff! These turned out lovely
Great tips on using the back fence so thanks for that. What size workshop are you working out of? I do like your spindle moulder accessories cabinet - I have mine just hanging from the wall - not as pretty but easy to find :-)
I did a 2400 sq ft house custom base on a big router table? I did use every jig known to man except a back fence ?
Where were you a couple years ago?
I vowed to streamline the process even better over time now I know ! But seriously I need that machine ! If I sent my address and will u send me yours? With the back fence of course !
Great video for us finish carpenters who do this for a living !
HAah, yeah you want a proper machine for that job, or a very powerful and man enough router table!
Lovely stuff. Where do you get your wood from?
That's what we do as well old school
Old school and best! I was never shown this one, could have saved me some pain in the past!
I do the same but I also use a false fence as much as I can
👌
Have you got a gadget which calms the feeling impending doom when one of those monsters spin up? It’s the only reason I don’t own one 😂 1/2 inch router bit extension let go the other day on my router table and that was scary enough !
Thanks for all the valuable info. How are you liking the Felder, would you buy it again? I'm torn between the felder format4 line and SCM L'invicible line.
To be fair, its been a fantastic machine. just the right size and capability. I often think about upgrading, but wonder what it would bring to the table. I think readout on the fence, and tilting forwards and backwards would be the only things id change for. Buy 5.5kw motor or higher. SOme of the better machines are often more awkward to use as they a bulkier. I really like this one, grown to love it and have no complaints.
👍👍
We call that an '' outboard'' fence. I use it to make all my door and window parts with no snipe as the wood is always riding against the outboard fence. Mine has a measuring rule on each end to be able to keep it running paralell to the fence which can act as a pressure plate to hold material tight to the outboard fence. NO SNIPE
do you use the collected shavings and dust in a pellet press for heating like Manor Wood does?
No bud, it gets used by a friend for drying out horse bedding/stables, i think pellet presses would be expensive to run now, and id worry about heat and dust in the workshop unattended tbh
Interesting video. Did you make the cutter profile or did you get some one to make it for you?
Always get them made properly, I use Paul @ Cutter Profilers UK
Thanks again for your video. I don't have any feed rolls on my machine. Any advice if doing similar by handfeeding? Cheers. Jim
Same setup really but replace the rollers with a spring pressure pad that holds the moulding against fence and down.
Thanks for the information. Cheers. Jim
I assume a new set of cutters for the start of this job? Would you then Get them re sharpened after, or would they last for a while before needing to?
Yes, it soon makes a difference on a lot of mouldings, if you spend an extra hour sanding... its worth soending 10 mins crisping up the edge on the cutters. I will give dull ones a few minutes on the flat face of the tormek to sharpen them
Beautiful work as always. What's the diameter on that cutter and what RPM are you running? I don't often get that typical sound when machining but then again I usually work with smaller cutters or the carbide insert ones.
150mm cut circle and 6500.rpm roughly 👍 thankyou
Is that a 9 degree bevel cutter used for initial shaping?
I used a 50mm rebater just tilted it back to the right angle, but could use a bevel block yeah
I would dearly love to buy very high classic skirting boards, can’t find them in France.
I know a man who can accommodate you.
And his name is O…….r 🙌🙌
Where in France? The main dilema is finding properly aclimated timber for the job. Most will shrink and move/bend once installed hence why no-one does it any more> amke sure the timber is properly dried out for a few months before installing.
@@BradshawJoinery Near Bordeaux - big renovation project, need skirtings for whole house but high ceilings so need to be tall for correct proportions.
Looks like you could do with a three or four bag extractor rather than the 2 bagger saving a bit of time and offering better CFM.
Absolutely, I could do with a lot of upgrades, but just making do with what I've got for the time being, maybe have a big upgrade in the future. It's not very often I do this volume of mathining and this extractor pulls a real strong suction to be fair
What are the brushes for on your feeder?
Ive never really found they do much but I assume stops the turning wheel being the first thing you finger may hit....
May I ask why you haven’t a false fence to guide the top of the skirting through the cutter / reduce access to cutters?
You could do but it's more setup time and isn't always necessary, if I had any problems I would have done 👍👍
Why is it that you can't put the cutter block blades the other way around so that the wide part which remains is at the bottom and thus more stable? I'm assuming that there is a reason, but I can't figure it out.
My spindle moulder feeder wheels are loosing traction, got any ideas for increasing their friction?
Ive sanded them before now with 40g belt sander while they were turning,,,, but ive just ordered some new ones, they arent terribly expensive
@@BradshawJoinery brilliant!
Hey, how much it cost for a moulder machine like that one
Again anyone who can afford to have a a machine as expensive as this will definitely know how to us it.
This is so far from fact, like saying anyone with an expensive car knows how to drive it!
Why wouldn't you put it through the machine with the wide part of the finished moulding at the bottom?
Great channel. Love your skill.
The feed-wheels would crush the thin end of the moullding.
Yeah itll be difficult to drive through, and the finish of each piece would eb horrible, big unsupported cut, and driven only by a tiny piece of timber. Generally, its nearly always best practice to machine under the workpiece not have the cutter above.
It looks like the Felder fence has a shallow groove about half way up, about 0.5 mm deep and 15 high (unless my old eyes are playing tricks with me). Has that ever pissed you off?
Never to be fair, the bevel at the bottom has had to be allowed for a few times, but has also helped on occasion!
👊🫡
Not gonna lie. Shapers scare the hell out of me.
They can be incredibly dangerous to be fair
How many people have the privilege of owning a spindle moulder lying spare in their 8X10 shed.
I appreciate that, but this would be good info if you did own on right😉
Awesome mate. You actually can get the ‘ultimate dream’. Ie. positive pressure to back fence !
It’s that ‘finger fence’ upgrade the ‘aigner fence’
It’s got a sort of adjustable lug that comes out the outfeed side and looks brilliant.
Obviously it’s an arm and a leg ( but could save you a hand 😜). It’s on my list!
Thank for the video!
Yeah, i have spent considerable time studying the aigner, there are lots of attactive features but a few i dont like, so i dont feel its worth the investment for me. If a spindle i bought came with it, id certainly be pleased though haha
@@BradshawJoinery what’s the things you don’t like Ollie?
For me it’s the price 😂 ( $2000 aud)
So do the moulds use standard cutters or do you have to get new ones for each job? Videos are fine the way they are.
THese are custom to match the existing house profile. THere are thousands of mouldings in uk thoughout history and all vary from joiner to joiner even within the same locale.. Its onyl the last 30-50 years they have standardised shop bought mouldings... but even still nicer projects move away from the standard stuff.