Making Shaker Frame & Panel Doors - Spindle Shaper & Back Fence Use

Making Shaker Frame & Panel Doors. This is how I use the Aigner Thickness Stop and related Pressure Jaws to profile the inside edge of frame and panel cabinet doors.

[@MoGhotbi]

Beatutiful work. Excellent tutorial for someone like me just getting started with shapers.

[@frankgray5789]

All the best equipment, you can’t go wrong!,

[@David_Best]

That's like looking at my expensive DLSR camera and saying "it must take great pictures".

[@vincentrolfe1384]

I run my Format4 with right to left wood movement and set the motorized fence for tooling depth of cut and unlock the left side floater fence to allow for the amount of wood the tooling removes and adjust keeping track of the mechanical digital settings. I have shimmed the Aigner fence 19MM back for use with high speed router bit spindle. I spent a good amount of money on router bits
before I bought the shaper. Custom router bits are better than corrugated knives and are faster SU.

[@David_Best]

Sounds like you need your own TH-cam channel to convey what you have done to the world. I'm here to help and answer questions and assist with helpful tutorials. How can I assist you?

[@r.guardia9107]

Nice work and informative video. I haven't used a shaper before and didn't realize some cutters are designed to be fed from the left end of the machine. The motorized fence is really handy. 👍

[@Andy-iw9su]

I think this is a climb cut. No?

[@David_Best]

@@Andy-iw9su not always. You can reverse the direction of the cutter on most spindle shapers. So you can climb cut either direction if you want. I do not recommend climb cutting unless absolutely necessary due to grain and chip-out and always use a power feeder.

[@Simonfrios]

I struggled with my shaper recently after cutting my stock to final width before shaping, not taking it into account what I would lose in total width from the cutters. Is there a standard to how much width you should expect to lose?

[@David_Best]

There is no rule on this - it all depends on what technique you are using to profile the material. Generally I take the cutter profile depth and add 2mm to that. If I'm using a back fence, I set up the machine to profile and bring to width in the same operation. If I'm profiling against the shaper fence, I will stagger the outfeed fence so that the material coming off the cutter, which is now 2mm less wide, has a fence plate to rest against - that way the material doesn't cock outward as it's forced against the outfeed fence by the feeder. Hope this helps. Thanks for viewing.

[@Simonfrios]

@@David_Best thanks so much for getting back to me. It's tricky to learn this stuff by ones self in the shop -- good thing for great youtubers like you!

[@David_Best]

@@Simonfrios You're welcome. You can reach me through my new web site if you have questions: davidpbest.com

[@marka9292]

Is the patch in the end grain shown on the finished door hiding a magnetic catch?

[@David_Best]

Yes it is. You can see it at the following link. I used a Festool Domino router to cut the slot, and made my own plug with the magnet. flic.kr/p/26dNVpE