24:00 water pump change on the engine stand is super helpful. I've got an LE5 sitting on my stand and a timing chain/pump on order. Thanks for the clearly filmed and narrated procedure! Keep up the great work!
I have an engine from this development series (ECOTEC) in my current car, interesting for me to see it from the inside and how it is built. As always good work, thanks for your effort and time!
Glad to hear you found it interesting. Overall, I've found this ecotec (along with the vehicle) to be quite easy to work on compared to some other late models. Hopefully it runs well too!
@@NotEnoughProjects I can agree with you there. In my experience, this type of engine is a good balance between performance, fuel economy and durability if it is serviced regularly, but that should go without saying. Good luck with your rebuild. I am curious how it will go
The 2.4 ecotec actually doesn't have cam seals that seal oil from leaking externally. It does have slip rings on the camshafts, but they they will not cause an external oil leak. If you're talking about those, the cams must be completely removed.
Glad you've found it helpful. The link to the service manual is in the description. Do be aware that it's for for the laf engine. The only real difference I know of is the lea has a thin metal spacer over the crank timing gear you must remove to see the mark
Wow thanks man, Im watching your 2nd video on the 2.4 Ecotec Engine Rebuild-2012 Equinox PT 2, and it skipped over the torquing, I’m using your 3 videos as a model. I have a 2011 Chevy Equinox 2.4 LAF engine and I have to set my notches on my cams one at 5 o’clock and the other at 10 o’clock. I saw where you had to redo the timing again on that, you were very calm, 😂 I would have had a 4 stroke on that one. Did you sling a few wrenches before you turned the video back on? 😂 😂 😆
Woow excellent job. I need to do the same with my captiva chain got loose and bent valves. My engine is a LE5 ecotec 2.4 I think they are very similar to
Thanks! Yeah, I believe the main difference between the le5 and lea is that the lea is direct injection. Failed timing chain is exactly what happened to this motor
Once the cams are bolted down, they should be fairly tight. Depending on the state of the hydraulic adjusters you may be able to push them down by hand
Question, this being an aluminum head when taking the head off should you do it in sequence and quarter turns to keep from warping the head, or is that a concern at all? Thanks
Personally I've never worried about it, I don't think there's a risk at all. Lot of guys go in reverse of the bolt torque pattern but I don't think it's critical
question about marks on cams. my manual says to clock the cams at about 10 on intake and 7 on the exhaust... I have a 2012 terrain 2.4L 2011 says 7 & 5
Yep 10 and 7 should be correct for 2011-on (lea motor). There's a picture from the service manual here: www.terrainforum.net/threads/2012-terrain-2-4-timing-marks.31665/ just be careful as you turn the cams not to hit the pistons with valves.
The old pistons also had the valve relief. Changing the piston dish enough to make engine non interfence would greatly decrease the engine compression ratio.
Hi there, I have the engine mechanical section of the service manual linked in the description here is a direct link. If I remember correctly this is for the 2010 equinox so there are a couple minor differences compared to the newer models. drive.google.com/file/d/1H0pUAYKKEHo1BlRd8DAFYwQSVcT9J7x0/view
2012 captiva finally threw a timing chain. I have some rockers that are loose when not in contact with the cam and I can pull them out. Suspecting bent valves for sure. Is it really worth just replace it the head and doing a new timing chain and guides? I need to get this car back up and running
Yeah I'm sure valves are bent. It's a judgment call for sure. If the engine was in good condition otherwise I'd say it's worth putting a new head on and doing the timing. (the cylinder head I got through a local machine shop was a nutech, autozone sells them for ~$700 if I remember right). Other option is a used motor which you may as well do the chains while it's out plus its an unknown in terms of oil consumption etc.
Hello..i replaced the timing chain kit in a chevrolet captiva sport ls 2.4l three times in about two months..it runs good just a couple days and then start making a grinding noise again..that ia why i had to replace it three times in a short time.i dont know what is wrong..
Hey Adrian, sorry you're still having issues. Is there any evidence of metal on metal grinding? Like metal shavings. Did you replace the plastic guides?. Any running issues besides the grinding noise
@@NotEnoughProjects the second time i found the secont timing chain the one on the water pump.the tensioner was not open and no pushing the timing chain.so i replace everything again..
@@NotEnoughProjects and the third time just the upper guide the one close to the vvt sensor was beeing scratched by the timing chain..i put a new upper timing guide and ran around two weeks very good and is doing the same again.
I would make sure the grinding noise ia definitely coming from one of the chains. Could be an accessory pulley. If it is within the cover, there's no way around having to redo it paying very close attention to any signs of the cause. Check the guides, Tensioners, balance shafts (for smooth turning), water pump, etc for any signs of issue
The total cost for all parts was just under 2k. The bulk of this was a new cylinder head (~1k). I figured this was a better way to go since more than likely a pulled engine would have the same oil consumption and timing chain issues.
I am about to complete this overhaul and place this engine back in my vehicle using these videos and Cloyes as a model for my project, I am working on a 2011 Chevy Equinox 2.4 Ecotec LAF engine, I drilled holes in my piston ring OIL grooves, Jasper engines do this for their rebuilt 2,4 Ecotecs now to control oil consumption, they claim a 300 percent oil consumption reduction by doing this. I did mine and am about to get it back together and try it out. Check out Jasper engines reasoning on this.
Yeah, also a common practice on the Toyota 1zz engine which has similar oil consumption problems. The new pistons I used had extra oil drain holes if I remember correctly
@@bomark2002 since the pump is driven off the crank there's no real way to prime it. As long as you prelubed everything in assembly you should be good.
Enjoyed your video. Nice work, you're a very conscientious craftsman.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed
24:00 water pump change on the engine stand is super helpful. I've got an LE5 sitting on my stand and a timing chain/pump on order. Thanks for the clearly filmed and narrated procedure! Keep up the great work!
Thanks! Glad I could help
I have an engine from this development series (ECOTEC) in my current car, interesting for me to see it from the inside and how it is built. As always good work, thanks for your effort and time!
Glad to hear you found it interesting. Overall, I've found this ecotec (along with the vehicle) to be quite easy to work on compared to some other late models. Hopefully it runs well too!
@@NotEnoughProjects I can agree with you there. In my experience, this type of engine is a good balance between performance, fuel economy and durability if it is serviced regularly, but that should go without saying. Good luck with your rebuild. I am curious how it will go
Excellent work! I always enjoy and learn from your videos!!
Thanks again! Glad to hear it
You would be an excellent teacher!
Thank you!
Great video. If the cam shaft seals on this engine needed to be replaced could you explain the procedure? Thanks
The 2.4 ecotec actually doesn't have cam seals that seal oil from leaking externally. It does have slip rings on the camshafts, but they they will not cause an external oil leak. If you're talking about those, the cams must be completely removed.
Any chance you have the LEA engine service manual available to download? It’s been a phenomenal help
Glad you've found it helpful. The link to the service manual is in the description. Do be aware that it's for for the laf engine. The only real difference I know of is the lea has a thin metal spacer over the crank timing gear you must remove to see the mark
Bro what was the torque spec for the blue cam shaft cap bolts at time 15:00 ?
Thanks in Advance
Cam bearing cap torque spec is 8ft lbs
Wow thanks man, Im watching your 2nd video on the 2.4 Ecotec Engine Rebuild-2012 Equinox PT 2, and it skipped over the torquing, I’m using your 3 videos as a model. I have a 2011 Chevy Equinox 2.4 LAF engine and I have to set my notches on my cams one at 5 o’clock and the other at 10 o’clock. I saw where you had to redo the timing again on that, you were very calm, 😂 I would have had a 4 stroke on that one. Did you sling a few wrenches before you turned the video back on? 😂 😂 😆
Lol definitely wasn't happy, but I try to avoid throwing wrenches 😂
UPDATE:
I meant 7 and 10 o’clock position
@@NotEnoughProjects 😅😅😅
Great video!!! 👍🏿👍🏿 A lot of info
Thanks!
כל הכבוד מקצועי בטח מנוע מאליבו כמה עלות אברהול רק חלקים בלי עבודה
Woow excellent job.
I need to do the same with my captiva chain got loose and bent valves.
My engine is a LE5 ecotec 2.4
I think they are very similar to
Thanks! Yeah, I believe the main difference between the le5 and lea is that the lea is direct injection. Failed timing chain is exactly what happened to this motor
I need to get this done on NY 2006 Malibu LT 2.2L Engine!
Quick question regarding roller fingers… are they suppose to be tight or loose?
Once the cams are bolted down, they should be fairly tight. Depending on the state of the hydraulic adjusters you may be able to push them down by hand
Question, this being an aluminum head when taking the head off should you do it in sequence and quarter turns to keep from warping the head, or is that a concern at all? Thanks
Personally I've never worried about it, I don't think there's a risk at all. Lot of guys go in reverse of the bolt torque pattern but I don't think it's critical
question about marks on cams. my manual says to clock the cams at about 10 on intake and 7 on the exhaust... I have a 2012 terrain 2.4L 2011 says 7 & 5
Yep 10 and 7 should be correct for 2011-on (lea motor). There's a picture from the service manual here: www.terrainforum.net/threads/2012-terrain-2-4-timing-marks.31665/ just be careful as you turn the cams not to hit the pistons with valves.
Your new pistons have scalloped valve clearance, so do they no more interfere with the valves in case of timing chain mishap?
The old pistons also had the valve relief. Changing the piston dish enough to make engine non interfence would greatly decrease the engine compression ratio.
Thanks. Great video!
@@NotEnoughProjects Thanks. Great video!
Where can I find all the spec for rebuilding the 2.4 engine? torque specs and the cam position when putting the head back on?
Hi there,
I have the engine mechanical section of the service manual linked in the description here is a direct link. If I remember correctly this is for the 2010 equinox so there are a couple minor differences compared to the newer models.
drive.google.com/file/d/1H0pUAYKKEHo1BlRd8DAFYwQSVcT9J7x0/view
@@NotEnoughProjects Thx, that help a lot.
By my book the notch on the cam on the intake side should be at 10 o clock 2011 and newer
Yep that's correct
2012 captiva finally threw a timing chain. I have some rockers that are loose when not in contact with the cam and I can pull them out. Suspecting bent valves for sure.
Is it really worth just replace it the head and doing a new timing chain and guides? I need to get this car back up and running
Yeah I'm sure valves are bent. It's a judgment call for sure. If the engine was in good condition otherwise I'd say it's worth putting a new head on and doing the timing. (the cylinder head I got through a local machine shop was a nutech, autozone sells them for ~$700 if I remember right).
Other option is a used motor which you may as well do the chains while it's out plus its an unknown in terms of oil consumption etc.
Is a loose rocker 100% bent valves?
I’m my experience yes. Once I pulled the head I had numerous rockers just fall out.
What torque are the connecting rod cap bolts?
Hey, service manual is linked in description. On pg 497 the spec is provided: 18 ftlbs + 100 degrees (must use new bolts)
Thanks
Hello..i replaced the timing chain kit in a chevrolet captiva sport ls 2.4l three times in about two months..it runs good just a couple days and then start making a grinding noise again..that ia why i had to replace it three times in a short time.i dont know what is wrong..
Hey Adrian, sorry you're still having issues. Is there any evidence of metal on metal grinding? Like metal shavings. Did you replace the plastic guides?. Any running issues besides the grinding noise
@@NotEnoughProjects the second time i found the secont timing chain the one on the water pump.the tensioner was not open and no pushing the timing chain.so i replace everything again..
@@NotEnoughProjects and the third time just the upper guide the one close to the vvt sensor was beeing scratched by the timing chain..i put a new upper timing guide and ran around two weeks very good and is doing the same again.
@@NotEnoughProjects and no metal shavings or water on the oil.but the oil got black very fast..ot doesnt last longer.
I would make sure the grinding noise ia definitely coming from one of the chains. Could be an accessory pulley. If it is within the cover, there's no way around having to redo it paying very close attention to any signs of the cause. Check the guides, Tensioners, balance shafts (for smooth turning), water pump, etc for any signs of issue
What was the approx total cost for this rebuild? I'm trying to decide whether to rebuild or replace. Thank you
The total cost for all parts was just under 2k. The bulk of this was a new cylinder head (~1k). I figured this was a better way to go since more than likely a pulled engine would have the same oil consumption and timing chain issues.
I don't have a manual, could you tell me how tight the head screws are. Swiss Brazil
Hi, service manual is linked in the description. The spec will be in there. Not sure of it off the top of my head
2.2 eco-tec in 2005chev cavalier
😅
mi amigo muy buenas noches cual es ajuste en libras y grados de torque la culata o cabeza de motor Ecotec 2.4 te agradesco tu informacion gracias
I am about to complete this overhaul and place this engine back in my vehicle using these videos and Cloyes as a model for my project, I am working on a 2011 Chevy Equinox 2.4 Ecotec LAF engine, I drilled holes in my piston ring OIL grooves, Jasper engines do this for their rebuilt 2,4 Ecotecs now to control oil consumption, they claim a 300 percent oil consumption reduction by doing this. I did mine and am about to get it back together and try it out. Check out Jasper engines reasoning on this.
Yeah, also a common practice on the Toyota 1zz engine which has similar oil consumption problems. The new pistons I used had extra oil drain holes if I remember correctly
Hey, did you have to prime the oil pump on this Ecotec engine, is there a way to do this, or did you just soak the parts down really good?
@@bomark2002 since the pump is driven off the crank there's no real way to prime it. As long as you prelubed everything in assembly you should be good.
Buy a thread chaser, beforehand, it makes life far easier and is less problematic.
Yeah they're nice to have for sure
24 mm bro
@Dev JB interesting fits perfectly on mine no slop at all plus service even says 24
What about block warpage
Always check block warpage with a good machinist's straight edge, though it's rare that a block has a warped deck. This one was good
Slams aluminum head on table🤦