I've watched several head spacing videos, most of those people are making it seem harder than it is using unnecessary words. Your explanation of the subject is easy to comprehend and to the point. What is frickin great video. I've actually learnt something.
Great job. I get a kick out of the negative comments. I've watched a million youtube vids. Yours is ahead of most. Learned more from yours than watching 20 others combined.
thank you, keep making the videos. I'm a man that can appreciate the full explanation so I will definitely sit through a longer video if you got more to say. I just sat through an advanced ballistics class. with a long-winded gentleman. About 7 hours. For a disclaimer we did have all of a 15 minute break in between. I am very glad I took the course. I learned more in that 7 hours, then I learned in the last 10 years about ballistics.
I hope you still get notifications, THANK YOU I learned a lot from this video that I needed to know. Very good video, thank you for taking the time to make and post it!
Thanks for this explanation of headspace and reloading........ I am new to pistol brass reloading and haven't got into rifle yet. I am nervous to try rifle reloading.
Thanks for the headspace video! you just reminded me how much I have left to learn. I would love a more in-depth video on this topic and others. This seems a crucial issue for reloaders, people slapping ARs together in their basement (like I JUST did prior to watching this), etc. Thanks for the knowledge. And please, take what time you need to get the message across in the future (maybe the full lecture and a 10 minute recap ;) ). I can't enroll in a smithing class so I rely on the wisdom and experience of good people to get the info I need. This was the best (and only real) explanation of headspacing, the impact on brass, and how to check it that I've seen. well done! Any video you want to make on firearms, reloading, or anything related, you have at least one rabid fan anxious to learn. thanks!
Great detail... thank you! this is TH-cam... you don't need to worry about being too verbose; we can always fast forward if we need... more info is better!
I had .001 headspace set on my 17Rem that I had Greg Tannel build for me with zero freebore. I’m, on 30 reloads on some of my brass and it still holds my primers good. Great video! This is with 17 Rem Nosler brass and I turn the necks because I like a tight neck.
I made an 8MM Mauser reamer to fit my reloading die. It was unreal. I took once fired brass(From the reamer gun) and length trimmed them. After that the brass grew about .001 in length when fired. I full length re-sized and the length stayed the same. I could work the press with one finger except for pushing the primer out. I don't know how long the cases lasted, I sold it at auction when I moved to a smaller place.
Solid video and greatly appreciated. I got some questions I bet you could clear up for me. If you are still doing videos and getting comments I would pay you for your time. New to reloading and want to do it right and safe. Thanks for the video.
Hey thanks for the video.. very good tutorial explaining what defines the headspace and the issues involved. I have a much better understanding now after watching this . 👍
Mate!!! Talk all ya want!! You're imparting great info!! lmao. Instead of using the term "thousandths", in my trade, we sharten this to "thou", like 0.040" = 40 thousandths, or as we would say, "40 thou". Why? Well back in the day, it stopped the old farts spit their false teeth out, lol. That's my excuse because I was an apprentice, lol. We're just lazy I guess. It also stopped others getting tongue tied. :) Again, GREAT stuff mate, enjoyed this vid immensely. Thank you from downunder!!! BTW, I've been shooting for 50 years and reloading for just over 30. I enjoy looking at how others reload and also regaining lost or forgotten info. (You bloody beauty mate!) :)
Great info!!! i'm looking forward to see the videos of how to set the resizing die, and the one to determine the headspace on the gun using new/once fired brass. Definitely subbed
Wow, been reloading for a long time. I defiantly have a better understanding of potential head spacing issues. I don't usually say this, but talk all you want. It's good info. Keep them coming....
Thanks, good Information. Take your time is good for me, having some brass to show may be helpful as well. Reloading is what I'd like to learn more of too.
Listening to you I heard you say you talk a lot.. Although this may be true, it's not a bad thing, sir. Solid information and definitely presented well. Thanks!
tacgunsngear: Comparing the fire formed case to a factory case I think is the key point here, for my problem, I think, maybe you can advise: I have been reloading for my Savage 10 BA stealth (the new 10 BA stealths have factory blueprinted bolts, so = tight tolerances) and I have not had an issue so far with any of my reloads (neck sized only using HORNADY ONLY brass) or any factory ammunition (Hornady or Prime ammo). However, just recently someone told me they had issues with the bolt getting locked and not being able to extract a spent case, I never had this issue until just recently I tried PRIME AMMO BRASS and my bolt is locking. Could this be due to different brass manufacturers? Or is my overall length too long and now getting stuck in my lands? I only see slight scratches on the bullet on one side, which leads me to believe its just rubbing when I eject it (because the extractor lifts up on the entire cartridge to eject it). Hopefully you can help me with my problem Thanks!
very nice video. So much information. A question : in your first example on fireing 1-2-3-4 times with full lengthzising - would you always see signs of separation on the brass??
Like the use of go/no go gauges to verify wear/condition. Common in military use for small arms up through aircraft cannons. Simple accurate way to verify headspace for a newly acquired or older gun with lots of use. Could do without the strange music and sound effects but useful nonetheless.
I just want to say thanks!!! Superb info. This is extremely important stuff that needs to be addressed. I'm just getting into reloading and have figured out this subject cannot be taken lightly. And getting someone to articulate this has been a chore. I have questions, but I want to watch your video over again before I unload on you!! I like the example about measuring the case of a new round then shooting it and measuring it afterwards. That helped, but still unclear after that though. I don't fully understand yet why you would only fully resize once, then just neck size after that? seems like you would want to full length resize every time? I really want to nail this down! And as far as worrying about how long your videos are, please don't worry about that any more! That's the problem with today's society, their attention span is but a milli second, and if this is not important enough to take the time to learn, they don't need to be messing around with this stuff! Great job sir. I look forward to learning.
I don't know if i'm helping but if you have only 1 weapon of that cal. the case will fit back in where it came out of. All you need to do is recondition the neck to accept a new bullet again, after checking for case length of course. Please correct me if I'm wrong, I need to know because that's what I've been doing.
I don’t care how long your videos are bro. I think getting the point across in a clear and concise way is far more important than making it a bit shorter! Just my two cents:)
Please include how to set up die for head space and how to measure with fired brass new knowledge for reloading is great.we need to make our brass last as long as we can if you looked for new? Christopher
I would like to see your demonstration on shoulder bumping. I reload .223 using a RCBS neck sizing only die. How does one know when the shoulder needs bumping and how to set the neck sizing die to do this. I thank you in advance. I just ordered and received a new lot of 100 pieces of Lapua.
I'm working on reloading my twice fired 7mm Rem Mag case but noticed that while chambering the empty brass in the rifle I noticed difficulty in closing the bolt, it felt tight. Do you recommend bumping the shoulder back to correct this tight chambering problem? Since the headspace is not measured from the datum point on the shoulder but just above the belt would bumping it cause the case to weaken near the belt area due to this procedure?
when u say the bolt was tight was that with round in it or was the receiver empty? have you used go/ no go gauges? this will determine as to whether it requires the chamber reamer or whether the barrel needs facing/turning. sorry i don't know what your experience is in headspacing... I have been headspacing 308s all day and thats pretty much all i need to do to get the gauges to go (or not). It was a lot of taking the receivers on and off the barrels (in the centre lathe) taking either 0.025mm (0.001") of the front face to allow the chamber reamer (with a fixed stop around it) to go deeper, increasing the headspace size, or to face off the surface on the barrel (by the same amount each time) which the receiver stops on meaning the headspace distance will decrease accordingly. Maybe this is specific to the rifles i manufacture i don't know but its the best i can do to explain how i have done it today and yesterday - they all came back from the proof house all good no probs. hope it helps man
Gee, here I am full of myself after my first AR build. I don't know jack shit. Head space? I came across this subject by accident. Look like I will be heading to a gunsmith to have my build inspected.
A lot of finite specs that go into making a reliable firearm. For example: My brand new Ruger 10/22 is out of spec in several areas. Mag-well too large, plunger spring too weak, firing pin stop too short, excessive headspace, improper polishing of receiver, and guide rod. And a few other things.... These guns are JUNK! I don't understand all of the HYPE on these things. People must have never owned a REAL gun. lol. Mine has been nothing but a headache. Not impressed....
The tolerances are incredibly fine in mil spec parts. Odds are you're fine. But then again, I buy my uppers assembled so I don't have to deal with that aspect haha
maybe shorter videos but more of them. ie: headspace video just for rimless cartridge with shoulders and so on so someone can watch just what cartridge they are shooting
Headspace is very critical in an AR-15... That being said, it's usually not a problem. Any given AR-15 bolt will usually headspace properly in any given rifle. "Usually" is the operative word here so it's worth it to check the headspace when you build a new rifle, or replace the bolt or barrel. You also need to check if you swap bolts between rifles. Odds are that everything will be fine. But if it's not you can have a real problem.
Though a person can just neck size to increase brass life and accuracy it at some point needs to have the shoulder bumped back by .002 other wise depending on temperature a small amount of carbon and pressure spikes can occur and cause stuck cases. If your bolt lift is tight your shoulder needs bumped. For hunting cartridges you don't want to take chances on getting your gun out of function on a hunting trip for miniscule increases in accuracy. Target shooting alone you can play with brass and head spacing but not on a working rifle that depends on functioning. I always believed in having a rifle work in all conditions versus a 1-2 moa more increase in accuracy at 500 yards.You should always have a .002 head space clearance on your brass if a possibility of using that gun to save your life be it bolt action. More on semi's. On a semi auto I have .003 minimum and if I want to shoot that ammo in more than 1 AR I usually bump it to .004-.005 to prevent malfunctions when switching weapons.
Supposition: You draw headspace as the distance from casehead to breechface, which is one option. A more expanded and proper definition though should be just the difference between cartridge length (from base to shoulder datum line) to chamber length (boltface to shoulder line). In all autoloading or bolt action rifles, the space will be at the shoulder, since head will be flush w boltface after bolt pushes round forward. Anything incorrect about all this?
yes the space will be at the rim because when the firing pin strikes the primer it will be driven forward until it stops against the shoulder and then primer will absorb the energy from the firing pin.
Surprised the bench rester didn't have a clue and that he survived. You didn't warn guys worn out chambers and actions can set up bad head spacing which time and over pressure rds can do. Then the guys that interchange bolts figuring it fits hehehe. Even though the bolt handle helps prevent a blowback it isn't a given with parts flying :)
You are quite knowledgeable, I just wish you had more confidence in yourself! Your presentation is down to earth and understandable, when you show us the caliper.
reliability. brass cases aren’t perfect. zero headspace (based on a gauge) wouldn’t chamber all rounds. If you have powder residue or specs of dirt in the chamber that would be enough to keep the bolt from locking. You need a couple thousandths for functional reliability. The brass case is just a gasket if the gun is set up right. You don’t want excessive headspace but you want some.
I'm baffled about the exponentially incress in stretch comment. if the case stretches .004 thou the resize and bump ot back .004 and it stretches again. 004, it's only stretching. 004 thou over again. the case doesn't keep exponentially stretchng to .016 thou. fire a case, measure it with a headspace comparator from datum line to head and push back .002-.003 and your done. the case will stretch maximum .003 thou upon firing. resize again to .002-.003 thou shorter than fired case. the case will not be stretching. 003+.003+.003 everytime. it will only stretch .003 thou maximum.
+joe blow I think he is addressing material fatigue. the stretch happens each time the case is fired and that affects the strength of the case even though it is re-sized. It isn't continually stretching farther because you re-size it, but the accumulative effect of successive firing still exists.
Its very simple. Headspace is the CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE CASE HEAD AND BOLT/SLIDE FACE WITH A ROUND LOADED IN THE CHAMBER AND THE BOLT/SLIDE FULLY CLOSED. IF THERE IS NO "CLEARANCE" WHICH IS VERY COMMON AND DESIRABLE TO AVOID LITTLE ISSUES LIKE GUNS BLOWING UP, THE HEADSPACE IS "CORRECT" AS LONG AS THE BOLT/SLIDE IS FULLY IN BATTERY. It's not something specific to an individual cartridge or individual gun. It's the result of an "in-spec" cartridge in an "in-spec" chamber with the "breech" sealed by the bolt/slide. And RIMMED CARTRIDGES HEADSPACE ON THE RIM. PERIOD. The HEADSPACE is the clearance between the SEATED RIM and the BOLT FACE with a rimmed cartridge. The "headspace" may end up between the RIM AND THE REAR FACE OF THE CHAMBER WHERE THE RIM IS SUPPOSED TO SEAT because the cartridge/chamber is out of spec and the shoulder hits before the rim does, but its still HEADSPACED ON THE RIM. And MOST belted magnums do NOT "headspace on the belt". They headspace ON THE SHOULDER if you're talking about a "MODERN" U.S. "belted magnum" like a .300 Winchester Magnum or 7mm Remington Magnum. The belt is there for "show" only or if you want to believe some "experts" its there to "reinforce" the case. But the case STILL HEADSPACES ON THE SHOULDER. Those modern magnums run at such high pressures (60,000 psi plus) that they HAVE to headspace on the SHOULDER to SEAL THE CHAMBER and prevent excessive CASE STRETCH and CASE FAILURE.
I am sure this presenter knows what he's doing, but I am more confused now because he was talking in circles. A video does not need to be 30 minutes in length to explain head spacing, what needs to be done if it is not correct and the adverse effects if head spacing is not correct. Man...you should have scripted your video.
5 minutes in before you even begin to simply discuss what head space is in simple terms...then you immediately go off on a technical tangent about 40k psi vs 45k.....if people understood those technical details they probably wouldnt need to click on a video entitled what is headspace.....i still dont understand in simple terms what is happening or why there is a risk of "blowed up" rifles???? is it the bolt locking lugs wearing down thus the bolt sits further to the rear? this seems like a simple concenpt but technical people always seem to live in their own world and somehow fail to explain what is simple guess ill have to click on an other explanation video
Finally someone explained he instead of rambling on about how important it is!
I've watched several head spacing videos, most of those people are making it seem harder than it is using unnecessary words. Your explanation of the subject is easy to comprehend and to the point. What is frickin great video. I've actually learnt something.
Really good video. I've watched several videos on this subject, but yours is the first to really make it click in my mind. Thank you!
Great job. I get a kick out of the negative comments. I've watched a million youtube vids. Yours is ahead of most. Learned more from yours than watching 20 others combined.
This is a great video for every re loader to watch to help them understand head-space. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
thank you, keep making the videos. I'm a man that can appreciate the full explanation so I will definitely sit through a longer video if you got more to say. I just sat through an advanced ballistics class. with a long-winded gentleman. About 7 hours. For a disclaimer we did have all of a 15 minute break in between. I am very glad I took the course. I learned more in that 7 hours, then I learned in the last 10 years about ballistics.
I hope you still get notifications, THANK YOU I learned a lot from this video that I needed to know. Very good video, thank you for taking the time to make and post it!
Wow...what an excellent video. Thanks for taking time to it...I learnt alot and please...don't shorten things up. Great to have all the details.
Thanks for this explanation of headspace and reloading........ I am new to pistol brass reloading and haven't got into rifle yet. I am nervous to try rifle reloading.
I learned a lot from this video. Makes a reloader think. I reload for other people and don't want any injuries for sure.Thank you.
Thanks for the headspace video! you just reminded me how much I have left to learn. I would love a more in-depth video on this topic and others.
This seems a crucial issue for reloaders, people slapping ARs together in their basement (like I JUST did prior to watching this), etc. Thanks for the knowledge. And please, take what time you need to get the message across in the future (maybe the full lecture and a 10 minute recap ;) ).
I can't enroll in a smithing class so I rely on the wisdom and experience of good people to get the info I need. This was the best (and only real) explanation of headspacing, the impact on brass, and how to check it that I've seen. well done!
Any video you want to make on firearms, reloading, or anything related, you have at least one rabid fan anxious to learn. thanks!
Great detail... thank you! this is TH-cam... you don't need to worry about being too verbose; we can always fast forward if we need... more info is better!
I had .001 headspace set on my 17Rem that I had Greg Tannel build for me with zero freebore. I’m, on 30 reloads on some of my brass and it still holds my primers good. Great video! This is with 17 Rem Nosler brass and I turn the necks because I like a tight neck.
I made an 8MM Mauser reamer to fit my reloading die. It was unreal. I took once fired brass(From the reamer gun) and length trimmed them. After that the brass grew about .001 in length when fired. I full length re-sized and the length stayed the same. I could work the press with one finger except for pushing the primer out. I don't know how long the cases lasted, I sold it at auction when I moved to a smaller place.
Solid video and greatly appreciated. I got some questions I bet you could clear up for me. If you are still doing videos and getting comments I would pay you for your time. New to reloading and want to do it right and safe. Thanks for the video.
I am OK with it. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Hey thanks for the video.. very good tutorial explaining what defines the headspace and the issues involved. I have a much better understanding now after watching this . 👍
I agree also, talk away. Awesome video, very informative. Would be great to see more reloading videos.
Mate!!! Talk all ya want!! You're imparting great info!! lmao.
Instead of using the term "thousandths", in my trade, we sharten this to "thou", like 0.040" = 40 thousandths, or as we would say, "40 thou". Why? Well back in the day, it stopped the old farts spit their false teeth out, lol. That's my excuse because I was an apprentice, lol. We're just lazy I guess. It also stopped others getting tongue tied. :)
Again, GREAT stuff mate, enjoyed this vid immensely.
Thank you from downunder!!!
BTW, I've been shooting for 50 years and reloading for just over 30. I enjoy looking at how others reload and also regaining lost or forgotten info.
(You bloody beauty mate!) :)
Thanks man.I needed the laugh..that's funny
long videos are cool, more info the better. thank you for sharing your knowledge !!!
Great info!!! i'm looking forward to see the videos of how to set the resizing die, and the one to determine the headspace on the gun using new/once fired brass.
Definitely subbed
Thank you for your time and effort. Very good video!
Excellent video. Thank you!
Thanks! Your video cleared up some fuzzy spots in my understanding of this.
That is some great information to know! Thank you for putting this together 😉
Great video, thank you, Sir!
Great video!!, thanks for the info!!!
Thanks for the good video lots of good info .
Thanks man, this was a great video! Helped me a lot!
I liked your video. I learned alot. Don't worry as you post more videos you will get more streamlined and smoother.
Wow, been reloading for a long time. I defiantly have a better understanding of potential head spacing issues. I don't usually say this, but talk all you want. It's good info. Keep them coming....
Great job!!!
Very good information. Take your time to tell how it works , thanks
Mr tac gun,
I am thankful to you for this informative video, I owe you a drink...... regards
Thanks, good Information. Take your time is good for me, having some brass to show may be helpful as well. Reloading is what I'd like to learn more of too.
Great video! Thanks for your time making this! Very informative!!
Great Vid Brother.
Very good explanation thank you!
Great video, thank you so much
Listening to you I heard you say you talk a lot.. Although this may be true, it's not a bad thing, sir. Solid information and definitely presented well. Thanks!
Great video. Thanks
tacgunsngear: Comparing the fire formed case to a factory case I think is the key point here, for my problem, I think, maybe you can advise: I have been reloading for my Savage 10 BA stealth (the new 10 BA stealths have factory blueprinted bolts, so = tight tolerances) and I have not had an issue so far with any of my reloads (neck sized only using HORNADY ONLY brass) or any factory ammunition (Hornady or Prime ammo).
However, just recently someone told me they had issues with the bolt getting locked and not being able to extract a spent case, I never had this issue until just recently I tried PRIME AMMO BRASS and my bolt is locking. Could this be due to different brass manufacturers? Or is my overall length too long and now getting stuck in my lands? I only see slight scratches on the bullet on one side, which leads me to believe its just rubbing when I eject it (because the extractor lifts up on the entire cartridge to eject it).
Hopefully you can help me with my problem
Thanks!
very nice video. So much information. A question : in your first example on fireing 1-2-3-4 times with full lengthzising - would you always see signs of separation on the brass??
Great video man!
very informative video, thanks
Great video!
Great! Thanks.
Like the use of go/no go gauges to verify wear/condition. Common in military use for small arms up through aircraft cannons. Simple accurate way to verify headspace for a newly acquired or older gun with lots of use. Could do without the strange music and sound effects but useful nonetheless.
Thanks for the video. :)
I just want to say thanks!!! Superb info. This is extremely important stuff that needs to be addressed. I'm just getting into reloading and have figured out this subject cannot be taken lightly. And getting someone to articulate this has been a chore. I have questions, but I want to watch your video over again before I unload on you!! I like the example about measuring the case of a new round then shooting it and measuring it afterwards. That helped, but still unclear after that though. I don't fully understand yet why you would only fully resize once, then just neck size after that? seems like you would want to full length resize every time? I really want to nail this down! And as far as worrying about how long your videos are, please don't worry about that any more! That's the problem with today's society, their attention span is but a milli second, and if this is not important enough to take the time to learn, they don't need to be messing around with this stuff! Great job sir. I look forward to learning.
I don't know if i'm helping but if you have only 1 weapon of that cal. the case will fit back in where it came out of. All you need to do is recondition the neck to accept a new bullet again, after checking for case length of course. Please correct me if I'm wrong, I need to know because that's what I've been doing.
Great video. NOT too long. Do post the die setting vids. Thanks.
مرسی و ممنون از راهنمایی بسیار خوب و مفید شما استاد بزرگوار
I don’t care how long your videos are bro. I think getting the point across in a clear and concise way is far more important than making it a bit shorter! Just my two cents:)
Not bad! Nice! I now understand some stuff I had been thinking about, Wish you lived across the street...
Please include how to set up die for head space and how to measure with fired brass new knowledge for reloading is great.we need to make our brass last as long as we can if you looked for new? Christopher
thank you.. i learned some things
Nice video..great info. thanks..i like the finger counting..lol I'll do that from time to time...lol
I would like to see your demonstration on shoulder bumping. I reload .223 using a RCBS neck sizing only die. How does one know when the shoulder needs bumping and how to set the neck sizing die to do this. I thank you in advance. I just ordered and received a new lot of 100 pieces of Lapua.
Did you notice he used both hands to draw and point. Ambi-boy!
what are your thoughts on the feel method?
I learned alot with this video
I'm working on reloading my twice fired 7mm Rem Mag case but noticed that while chambering the empty brass in the rifle I noticed difficulty in closing the bolt, it felt tight. Do you recommend bumping the shoulder back to correct this tight chambering problem? Since the headspace is not measured from the datum point on the shoulder but just above the belt would bumping it cause the case to weaken near the belt area due to this procedure?
when u say the bolt was tight was that with round in it or was the receiver empty? have you used go/ no go gauges? this will determine as to whether it requires the chamber reamer or whether the barrel needs facing/turning. sorry i don't know what your experience is in headspacing... I have been headspacing 308s all day and thats pretty much all i need to do to get the gauges to go (or not). It was a lot of taking the receivers on and off the barrels (in the centre lathe) taking either 0.025mm (0.001") of the front face to allow the chamber reamer (with a fixed stop around it) to go deeper, increasing the headspace size, or to face off the surface on the barrel (by the same amount each time) which the receiver stops on meaning the headspace distance will decrease accordingly. Maybe this is specific to the rifles i manufacture i don't know but its the best i can do to explain how i have done it today and yesterday - they all came back from the proof house all good no probs. hope it helps man
also i would check for burrs
good video
Gee, here I am full of myself after my first AR build. I don't know jack shit. Head space? I came across this subject by accident. Look like I will be heading to a gunsmith to have my build inspected.
A lot of finite specs that go into making a reliable firearm. For example: My brand new Ruger 10/22 is out of spec in several areas. Mag-well too large, plunger spring too weak, firing pin stop too short, excessive headspace, improper polishing of receiver, and guide rod. And a few other things.... These guns are JUNK! I don't understand all of the HYPE on these things. People must have never owned a REAL gun. lol. Mine has been nothing but a headache. Not impressed....
The tolerances are incredibly fine in mil spec parts. Odds are you're fine. But then again, I buy my uppers assembled so I don't have to deal with that aspect haha
maybe shorter videos but more of them. ie: headspace video just for rimless cartridge with shoulders and so on so someone can watch just what cartridge they are shooting
interested in your video have a 243 winchester, sometimes I will get a round that was reloaded that will not chamber.
Amen!
Dam, you do talk a lot. But it was well worth it. You gave a bunch of great information. Thank you for taking time to make the videos. Great job...
My wife says "there's too much head space", I say "the chamber is too big".
how critical is it to head space AR 15 given there locking bolt design
very as it is in every high pressure cartridge
Headspace is very critical in an AR-15... That being said, it's usually not a problem. Any given AR-15 bolt will usually headspace properly in any given rifle. "Usually" is the operative word here so it's worth it to check the headspace when you build a new rifle, or replace the bolt or barrel. You also need to check if you swap bolts between rifles. Odds are that everything will be fine. But if it's not you can have a real problem.
Why did I get a stuck case in my 260 just neck sizing. Could a dirty chamber be the problem ?
Though a person can just neck size to increase brass life and accuracy it at some point needs to have the shoulder bumped back by .002 other wise depending on temperature a small amount of carbon and pressure spikes can occur and cause stuck cases. If your bolt lift is tight your shoulder needs bumped. For hunting cartridges you don't want to take chances on getting your gun out of function on a hunting trip for miniscule increases in accuracy. Target shooting alone you can play with brass and head spacing but not on a working rifle that depends on functioning. I always believed in having a rifle work in all conditions versus a 1-2 moa more increase in accuracy at 500 yards.You should always have a .002 head space clearance on your brass if a possibility of using that gun to save your life be it bolt action. More on semi's. On a semi auto I have .003 minimum and if I want to shoot that ammo in more than 1 AR I usually bump it to .004-.005 to prevent malfunctions when switching weapons.
Supposition: You draw headspace as the distance from casehead to breechface, which is one option. A more expanded and proper definition though should be just the difference between cartridge length (from base to shoulder datum line) to chamber length (boltface to shoulder line). In all autoloading or bolt action rifles, the space will be at the shoulder, since head will be flush w boltface after bolt pushes round forward.
Anything incorrect about all this?
yes the space will be at the rim because when the firing pin strikes the primer it will be driven forward until it stops against the shoulder and then primer will absorb the energy from the firing pin.
easy continuity fix...make notes prior to doing vid. leaves the thinking/remembering part out.
Surprised the bench rester didn't have a clue and that he survived. You didn't warn guys worn out chambers and actions can set up bad head spacing which time and over pressure rds can do. Then the guys that interchange bolts figuring it fits hehehe. Even though the bolt handle helps prevent a blowback it isn't a given with parts flying :)
Very helpful. Longer is better. Work off a outline though.
I think headspace is the distance between the ears )))
You forgot 45 acp it seats on the case mouth!
OMG....
You are quite
knowledgeable, I just wish you had more confidence in yourself! Your
presentation is down to earth and understandable, when you show us
the caliper.
NO SOUND?
Why is there headspace? Is no space good?
reliability. brass cases aren’t perfect. zero headspace (based on a gauge) wouldn’t chamber all rounds. If you have powder residue or specs of dirt in the chamber that would be enough to keep the bolt from locking. You need a couple thousandths for functional reliability.
The brass case is just a gasket if the gun is set up right. You don’t want excessive headspace but you want some.
@@jwilsonhandmadeknives2760 makes sense. Thanks
I thought head space was when you tilted up the steering wheel.
I'm baffled about the exponentially incress in stretch comment.
if the case stretches .004 thou the resize and bump ot back .004 and it stretches again. 004, it's only stretching. 004 thou over again.
the case doesn't keep exponentially stretchng to .016 thou.
fire a case, measure it with a headspace comparator from datum line to head and push back .002-.003 and your done.
the case will stretch maximum .003 thou upon firing.
resize again to .002-.003 thou shorter than fired case.
the case will not be stretching. 003+.003+.003 everytime. it will only stretch .003 thou maximum.
+joe blow I think he is addressing material fatigue. the stretch happens each time the case is fired and that affects the strength of the case even though it is re-sized. It isn't continually stretching farther because you re-size it, but the accumulative effect of successive firing still exists.
Its very simple. Headspace is the CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE CASE HEAD AND BOLT/SLIDE FACE WITH A ROUND LOADED IN THE CHAMBER AND THE BOLT/SLIDE FULLY CLOSED. IF THERE IS NO "CLEARANCE" WHICH IS VERY COMMON AND DESIRABLE TO AVOID LITTLE ISSUES LIKE GUNS BLOWING UP, THE HEADSPACE IS "CORRECT" AS LONG AS THE BOLT/SLIDE IS FULLY IN BATTERY. It's not something specific to an individual cartridge or individual gun. It's the result of an "in-spec" cartridge in an "in-spec" chamber with the "breech" sealed by the bolt/slide.
And RIMMED CARTRIDGES HEADSPACE ON THE RIM. PERIOD. The HEADSPACE is the clearance between the SEATED RIM and the BOLT FACE with a rimmed cartridge. The "headspace" may end up between the RIM AND THE REAR FACE OF THE CHAMBER WHERE THE RIM IS SUPPOSED TO SEAT because the cartridge/chamber is out of spec and the shoulder hits before the rim does, but its still HEADSPACED ON THE RIM. And MOST belted magnums do NOT "headspace on the belt". They headspace ON THE SHOULDER if you're talking about a "MODERN" U.S. "belted magnum" like a .300 Winchester Magnum or 7mm Remington Magnum. The belt is there for "show" only or if you want to believe some "experts" its there to "reinforce" the case. But the case STILL HEADSPACES ON THE SHOULDER. Those modern magnums run at such high pressures (60,000 psi plus) that they HAVE to headspace on the SHOULDER to SEAL THE CHAMBER and prevent excessive CASE STRETCH and CASE FAILURE.
DEEREMEYER1 go back to your m1 garand
You should go watch the video where he owns your ass and makes you look like a fool.
man some one make a video about this who is articulate
You drifted away from what headspace is and had a conversation on case length
Case length and headspace are directly related and he was explaining how it correlates to reloading safely. Very well done and informative.
Yes draw just as bad as me.
I am sure this presenter knows what he's doing, but I am more confused now because he was talking in circles. A video does not need to be 30 minutes in length to explain head spacing, what needs to be done if it is not correct and the adverse effects if head spacing is not correct. Man...you should have scripted your video.
5 minutes in before you even begin to simply discuss what head space is in simple terms...then you immediately go off on a technical tangent about 40k psi vs 45k.....if people understood those technical details they probably wouldnt need to click on a video entitled what is headspace.....i still dont understand in simple terms what is happening or why there is a risk of "blowed up" rifles???? is it the bolt locking lugs wearing down thus the bolt sits further to the rear? this seems like a simple concenpt but technical people always seem to live in their own world and somehow fail to explain what is simple guess ill have to click on an other explanation video
I guess so
You don't even explain what headspace is until 5 minutes and 30 seconds into the video. That's way too long. You should start with that explanation.