Thank you for posting the video. I am in the middle of the process and notice my sensor battery is a CR2050HR. This is on a 2018 K1600B. Was able to remove the battery and keep the metal tabs attached to the sensor. My epoxy was soft and came out with a small pocket knife and pick. Found out the HR means heat resistant. Maxwell website says the HR is not available to consumers.
You can find the CR2050HR battery on both ebay and amazon. Moreover, the HR version probably isn't necessary anyway, since countless sensors in all kinds of vehicles use the standard battery.
Thanks for this hack. Was quoted ridiculous prices for this to replace. With labour they wanted over £500! I thought it was shitty to make it sealed so you have to buy the whole thing. This is so wasteful and I hate companies that do stuff like this to extort money from you. I just replaced a tyre the other day and wish I saw this video first.
The previous video covers some of that. It's super easy--the front sensor has a single bolt, the rear sensor is held to the wheel by the valve stem itself, which has a nut on the outside.
You can pop the bead of the tire just one side and use a clamp to hold the tire out of the way. Getting the sensor out is very easy. Use some soapy water to pop the the back on just look away when inflating just in case but usually it takes less than 60psi to seat a tire. I do my own tire mounting and balancing at home very cheap and easy and a great way to save lots of money just never deal with a bad TPMS sensor. For my KTM they cost $200 usd so I'll try replacing my battery and see what issue I encounter.
You can use a small endmill bit in your drill press. Makes is work like a milling machine and if you have the mill vise, you can move the sensor around as well
That's probably not a good idea. You'll risk cooking the circuit board inside or melting the plastic. It's really not a big deal to scrape out the epoxy or use a soldering iron to help. It just takes a little patience.
Hi thanks for this how to video. Can I make a suggestion could you measure the depth you need to drill and let us know so we can set the drill depth when doing it by drill . Thanks again
That wouldn't be a wise method. There could be differences among model years or for other reasons and the level of epoxy could also vary. It's not that difficult to sneak up on the depth. You encounter the top of the battery first, so when you see silver you need to slow down and proceed more cautiously.
Hello again John, Just yesterday the front tire pressure indicator my 2016 r1200rt stopped showing a number and shows two red rings. The tire is holding air, was low at 33 instead of 36. I've put more air in but haven't ridden it yet to get up to speed (30 mph) to check it. Any ideas?
If there is no longer a reading indicated on the dash then that is typically an indication that your battery in the sensor has failed. You'll have to either replace the sensor or replace the battery in the existing sensor.
Great content and timely for my 2016 GS. I have the GS911 and ordered the wake up tool Question, will the CR2032 batteries with the leads attached make the task a little easier? And, does anyone have a recommendation for the “spare “ set of sensors that don’t cost BMW $’s?
Yes, if you find batteries with the leads attached that is easier than the tricky soldering which may damage the battery with heat. You can find generic sensor knock offs both on ebay and Amazon.
I had new tires installed this week and installed the $40/pair aftermarket TPMS sensors. All is well plus I got a to justify the expense of the GS911 device once again. I may try to replace the batteries in the OEM sensors per your instructions when needed. Thanks
Do you mean to attach the wires to the circuit card or the battery? I'm not certain how well that would hold up in the environment of the tire with heat and vibration. I can say with certainty that soldering does hold up, because I've gone years now with repaired sensors without issue.
@@tinderboxarts the adhesive to reattach the defroster lead to the glass on your vehicle window defroster works in an environment that is subject to high temperature changes as well as vibrations. It is used in place of solder because the glass will brake if you try to resolder the lead onto the glass. This adhesive is fully conductive as well. I’m going to try it as I have to replace the batteries on my TPM sensors.
I bought myself the TPMS wake up EL-50448 unit and I cannot get it to work. I switch on my bike ignition, then I place EL-50448 unit next to the tyre valve on my old but still working TPMS, but nothing happens. Nothing seems to register on my bike dashboard. When I press the one and only button on the EL-50448 unit, it flashes a green light for 5 seconds and stops. What am I doing wrong? I have a F700GS BMW bike with both the TPMS still working and registering to my dashboard. I will soon need to change my tryes and TPMS batteries.
So, I think you may just be misunderstanding how this all works. Plus, there could be some other variables at play. These sensors, once already installed and working, will normally "awaken" or become active after you start rolling. When you stop rolling for a period, they shut down to conserve battery life. There is an accelerometer in the sensor so it knows when you are rolling. You also need the computer on the bike to accept these broadcasts, which is the other side of the equation. That computer will look for the signals once it knows the bike is rolling via the "tone ring" and wheel sensor. Importantly, the computer must have the specific sensors installed on your wheels registered in it's database or else it will ignore any signal. So that's the background. The wake-up tool is just a shortcut to make the sensor become active so that you can register it in the computer's database using a scantool. Depending on the vehicle it may or may not cause the computer to start talking to an existing sensor, because the bike or car is not yet rolling. Apparently you were trying to force the sensor to communicate with the computer using the tool, but the computer wants to see other data before it will display the sensor values. Also, to use the tool you typically hold the button down continuously until the sensor becomes active. If you will be changing your batteries and reinstalling your existing sensors, you probably will not need the wake-up tool at all. The sensors will already be registered and they will work as they did before. Only when you change the sensors will you need the wake-up tool, and you'll use it to force the new sensors to broadcast to the computer so that they can be registered in the database. See this video at the 10:50 mark to understand what I mean: th-cam.com/video/xAiJy4ZC-u4/w-d-xo.html
I'm glad you asked! I looked up that bike and it does appear that the sensor for some KTM model years is nearly identical to the BMW. Speaking generally, though, all of these tire pressure sensors in bikes and cars work essentially the same way, they just have different physical designs. The older designs often had the epoxy covering the battery, the newer designs often have a snap-together case. If it's a watch battery, though, it can be replaced as long as you can get the case apart. Now, if the cost of buying a whole new sensor is $15, then maybe it isn't worth the effort. But if they are charging $150 to $300 it starts making sense. I'd love to hear back if your sensor is the same style and if you give the replacement a try.
It pisses me off how the industry designs everything so they keep making money out of you. They could make the sensor have a cap and a replaceable battery so when you change tyres you could change the battery too. They are clowns but thank god some of us can use powertools.
Couldn't agree more. In this instance it would be trivial to design a cap to allow battery replacement. And it isn't just our money, either--designs like this contribute to the staggering waste in our world. One pair of sensors should last the life of the bike if you can replace the batteries.
This is another sign of the Useless times in which we live. Someone decided this is a good idea to install these sensors which requires computers and tools to set up. Somehow that is more "Convenient" than the simple act of checking the air pressure on the tire manually. How much time and money is wasted dealing with this stupidity.!!
I do understand the sentiment, and I'm not a fan of most of the gizmos on bikes and cars these days. However, I do think the TPMS sensors are valuable for riders--not to check the pressure, but as a warning while riding. If you have a few seconds of warning that pressure is dropping after running over a nail, it could offer an advantage. That said, the implementation of the sensors could be improved for sure.
It is a very useful video, but I, personally, would encourage the viewers to don't drill anything while grabbing barehands. Also don't work work with chisel same way.
You could try that, but there is a risk. The dremel tool will be difficult to control precisely when you get close to the circuit board. One catch and you will have damaged the board.
Peanuts. They are standard watch batteries you can buy in any drugstore or box store. You can buy them in bulk online with the solder tabs, ten for ten bucks.
Some compounds like silicone can be corrosive to the circuit board, and I'm not sure about hot glue. The tape has worked for me for years, so I wouldn't hesitate to use that.
Hadn’t though of silicone being corrosive, yet your idea of tape would make it easier to replace the battery next time, also John, that drill was a stroke of genius, 👍😃
On the contrary, I have two sets of sensors, one pair of which are Chinese knockoffs and the other the OEM. If you watched my original video, I found that one of the knockoff sensors arrived with a dead battery and this is not uncommon. So you may be into replacing batteries even if you buy complete sensors. I just switch the pairs of sensors when I do a tire change, to keep a fresh battery installed at all times.
Thank you for posting the video. I am in the middle of the process and notice my sensor battery is a CR2050HR. This is on a 2018 K1600B. Was able to remove the battery and keep the metal tabs attached to the sensor. My epoxy was soft and came out with a small pocket knife and pick. Found out the HR means heat resistant. Maxwell website says the HR is not available to consumers.
You can find the CR2050HR battery on both ebay and amazon. Moreover, the HR version probably isn't necessary anyway, since countless sensors in all kinds of vehicles use the standard battery.
Just tried this on the TPMS of my KTM 1290 SAR, and it worked :) super happy with the result.
Great to hear!
Thanks for this hack. Was quoted ridiculous prices for this to replace. With labour they wanted over £500! I thought it was shitty to make it sealed so you have to buy the whole thing. This is so wasteful and I hate companies that do stuff like this to extort money from you. I just replaced a tyre the other day and wish I saw this video first.
Great video! Thanks!
I'd love to see how you get the sensor out of the wheel and put it back John. Another great video. Thanks!
The previous video covers some of that. It's super easy--the front sensor has a single bolt, the rear sensor is held to the wheel by the valve stem itself, which has a nut on the outside.
You can pop the bead of the tire just one side and use a clamp to hold the tire out of the way. Getting the sensor out is very easy. Use some soapy water to pop the the back on just look away when inflating just in case but usually it takes less than 60psi to seat a tire. I do my own tire mounting and balancing at home very cheap and easy and a great way to save lots of money just never deal with a bad TPMS sensor. For my KTM they cost $200 usd so I'll try replacing my battery and see what issue I encounter.
You can use a small endmill bit in your drill press. Makes is work like a milling machine and if you have the mill vise, you can move the sensor around as well
Great video thanks! How do you think a heat gun would do with removing the epoxy? I have one that I rarely use and was considering it for this.
That's probably not a good idea. You'll risk cooking the circuit board inside or melting the plastic. It's really not a big deal to scrape out the epoxy or use a soldering iron to help. It just takes a little patience.
Hi thanks for this how to video.
Can I make a suggestion could you measure the depth you need to drill and let us know so we can set the drill depth when doing it by drill .
Thanks again
That wouldn't be a wise method. There could be differences among model years or for other reasons and the level of epoxy could also vary. It's not that difficult to sneak up on the depth. You encounter the top of the battery first, so when you see silver you need to slow down and proceed more cautiously.
Thanks John! Really appreciate the video!
Good work there, thanks brother.
Hello again John,
Just yesterday the front tire pressure indicator my 2016 r1200rt stopped showing a number and shows two red rings. The tire is holding air, was low at 33 instead of 36. I've put more air in but haven't ridden it yet to get up to speed (30 mph) to check it. Any ideas?
If there is no longer a reading indicated on the dash then that is typically an indication that your battery in the sensor has failed. You'll have to either replace the sensor or replace the battery in the existing sensor.
Great content and timely for my 2016 GS.
I have the GS911 and ordered the wake up tool Question, will the CR2032 batteries with the leads attached make the task a little easier?
And, does anyone have a recommendation for the “spare “ set of sensors that don’t cost BMW $’s?
Yes, if you find batteries with the leads attached that is easier than the tricky soldering which may damage the battery with heat. You can find generic sensor knock offs both on ebay and Amazon.
I had new tires installed this week and installed the $40/pair aftermarket TPMS sensors. All is well plus I got a to justify the expense of the GS911 device once again. I may try to replace the batteries in the OEM sensors per your instructions when needed. Thanks
Why not use an electrically conductive glue like you would use to reattach a rear window defogger tab?
Do you mean to attach the wires to the circuit card or the battery? I'm not certain how well that would hold up in the environment of the tire with heat and vibration. I can say with certainty that soldering does hold up, because I've gone years now with repaired sensors without issue.
@@tinderboxarts the adhesive to reattach the defroster lead to the glass on your vehicle window defroster works in an environment that is subject to high temperature changes as well as vibrations. It is used in place of solder because the glass will brake if you try to resolder the lead onto the glass. This adhesive is fully conductive as well. I’m going to try it as I have to replace the batteries on my TPM sensors.
I bought myself the TPMS wake up EL-50448 unit and I cannot get it to work. I switch on my bike ignition, then I place EL-50448 unit next to the tyre valve on my old but still working TPMS, but nothing happens. Nothing seems to register on my bike dashboard. When I press the one and only button on the EL-50448 unit, it flashes a green light for 5 seconds and stops. What am I doing wrong? I have a F700GS BMW bike with both the TPMS still working and registering to my dashboard. I will soon need to change my tryes and TPMS batteries.
So, I think you may just be misunderstanding how this all works. Plus, there could be some other variables at play. These sensors, once already installed and working, will normally "awaken" or become active after you start rolling. When you stop rolling for a period, they shut down to conserve battery life. There is an accelerometer in the sensor so it knows when you are rolling. You also need the computer on the bike to accept these broadcasts, which is the other side of the equation. That computer will look for the signals once it knows the bike is rolling via the "tone ring" and wheel sensor. Importantly, the computer must have the specific sensors installed on your wheels registered in it's database or else it will ignore any signal.
So that's the background. The wake-up tool is just a shortcut to make the sensor become active so that you can register it in the computer's database using a scantool. Depending on the vehicle it may or may not cause the computer to start talking to an existing sensor, because the bike or car is not yet rolling. Apparently you were trying to force the sensor to communicate with the computer using the tool, but the computer wants to see other data before it will display the sensor values. Also, to use the tool you typically hold the button down continuously until the sensor becomes active.
If you will be changing your batteries and reinstalling your existing sensors, you probably will not need the wake-up tool at all. The sensors will already be registered and they will work as they did before. Only when you change the sensors will you need the wake-up tool, and you'll use it to force the new sensors to broadcast to the computer so that they can be registered in the database. See this video at the 10:50 mark to understand what I mean: th-cam.com/video/xAiJy4ZC-u4/w-d-xo.html
You can order CR2050HR batteries that are designed for TPMS, bigger capacity and can be soldered on.
Yes, as long as the voltage is correct you can use a larger capacity battery. However, that also means more weight.
@@tinderboxarts Is the weight a big factor in this case?
would this work for a KTM 1290 super adventure 2016?
I'm glad you asked! I looked up that bike and it does appear that the sensor for some KTM model years is nearly identical to the BMW. Speaking generally, though, all of these tire pressure sensors in bikes and cars work essentially the same way, they just have different physical designs. The older designs often had the epoxy covering the battery, the newer designs often have a snap-together case. If it's a watch battery, though, it can be replaced as long as you can get the case apart. Now, if the cost of buying a whole new sensor is $15, then maybe it isn't worth the effort. But if they are charging $150 to $300 it starts making sense. I'd love to hear back if your sensor is the same style and if you give the replacement a try.
What soft do you use on your lap top ?
That's the software integral with the GS-911 scan tool device. See this video: th-cam.com/video/rsipwJpov38/w-d-xo.html
It pisses me off how the industry designs everything so they keep making money out of you. They could make the sensor have a cap and a replaceable battery so when you change tyres you could change the battery too. They are clowns but thank god some of us can use powertools.
Couldn't agree more. In this instance it would be trivial to design a cap to allow battery replacement. And it isn't just our money, either--designs like this contribute to the staggering waste in our world. One pair of sensors should last the life of the bike if you can replace the batteries.
Top man! tks!
This is another sign of the Useless times in which we live. Someone decided this is a good idea to install these sensors which requires computers and tools to set up. Somehow that is more "Convenient" than the simple act of checking the air pressure on the tire manually. How much time and money is wasted dealing with this stupidity.!!
I do understand the sentiment, and I'm not a fan of most of the gizmos on bikes and cars these days. However, I do think the TPMS sensors are valuable for riders--not to check the pressure, but as a warning while riding. If you have a few seconds of warning that pressure is dropping after running over a nail, it could offer an advantage. That said, the implementation of the sensors could be improved for sure.
It is a very useful video, but I, personally, would encourage the viewers to don't drill anything while grabbing barehands. Also don't work work with chisel same way.
I think a Dremmel tool would be much better with saw blade attached
You could try that, but there is a risk. The dremel tool will be difficult to control precisely when you get close to the circuit board. One catch and you will have damaged the board.
A Dremal engraving bit would work better than the saw blade I think.
What is the cost of 1 battery?
Peanuts. They are standard watch batteries you can buy in any drugstore or box store. You can buy them in bulk online with the solder tabs, ten for ten bucks.
John, would using a hot glue gun be better than using tape, BTW great video, can see me needing to do this very soon, thanks for sharing 👍😃
Some compounds like silicone can be corrosive to the circuit board, and I'm not sure about hot glue. The tape has worked for me for years, so I wouldn't hesitate to use that.
Hadn’t though of silicone being corrosive, yet your idea of tape would make it easier to replace the battery next time, also John, that drill was a stroke of genius, 👍😃
I wondered the same. First thought was rubber cement like we used in elementary school.
If a soldering iron is used - be very careful not to overheat the battery…
It WILL explode - eye protection is a very good idea
You were willing to buy cheap chinese batteries but you're not willing to buy cheap chinese sensors for $30?
On the contrary, I have two sets of sensors, one pair of which are Chinese knockoffs and the other the OEM. If you watched my original video, I found that one of the knockoff sensors arrived with a dead battery and this is not uncommon. So you may be into replacing batteries even if you buy complete sensors. I just switch the pairs of sensors when I do a tire change, to keep a fresh battery installed at all times.